In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the VAZ 2110 gearbox takes off 4th gear from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Often, the owners of the VAZ 2110 during the operation of the car are faced with a problem: the first speed takes off... The reason for this behavior of the gearbox is its design features and the extremely poor condition of our expensive, which negatively affects the wear of spare parts. And if the car has the second speed takes off - this, in most cases, leads to an almost complete bulkhead of the entire checkpoint, so it is better not to delay solving the problem!
However, first you need to figure it out: why does the speed take off and where exactly to look for the reason for this behavior of the car?
The main reason for problems with the gearbox is excessive wear of the synchronizer, output shafts, loosening of the gear lever or violation of the rules for attaching the gearbox and engine to the car body. It is better not to delay with the elimination of a malfunction of this kind, because an inopportunely departed gear can endanger not only you, but also other road users.
Repair usually comes down to adjusting the shafts, adjusting the yoke clamp, less often there is a need to replace synchronizers, and in very rare cases a flywheel replacement is required. If the problem is not solved immediately after its occurrence, after a couple of thousand kilometers (and sometimes several hundred kilometers are enough) the box may become unusable and cannot be repaired, but only completely replaced. However, in general, the VAZ 2110 gearbox is quite reliable and maintainable, and it will not be easy to bring it to the point of needing a complete replacement.
You can clarify the nature of the problem if you conduct a small test drive on a flat section of road with good quality surface. It is enough to drive on it at low speed and at the time of gear shifting listen to the operation of the box. To simplify the task and speed up the work, it will be useful to help a neighbor or friend, who, sitting in the passenger seat, will also carefully "listen" to the car.
Video (click to play). |
With the question “Why does the speed take off?"We have more than figured it out, and it's time to figure out how to fix this breakdown.
In the case when the departure of the transmission is accompanied by a knock, ringing or light grinding, the problem almost always lies in the box itself - loosening of the secondary shaft or wear of the synchronizers. This problem can be solved only in a well-equipped garage or technical station and the presence of minimal experience with the checkpoint. The longitudinal play of the secondary shaft is usually eliminated by replacing the retaining rings and subsequent adjustment of the shaft, while worn out synchronizers must be replaced.
But if the speed flies out silently, then the cause of all the troubles lies in the wings: or blockage by foreign objects, or displacement of the clamp, or deformation of the ball of the retainer.
If the problem just showed up and the first speed takes off, but there is no way to visit the workshop, you can try to fix the situation in an ordinary garage. Adjusting the rocker is reduced to loosening the clamp, followed by shifting gears in order, while controlling the quality of the gear engagement. You may have to make several test runs during the adjustment process. Also, experienced craftsmen advise, using a grinder, to deepen the grooves in the wings, which are intended for the retainer ball, thereby increasing the reliability of fixing the lever in a given position.
But if over time you notice that the problem not only returned, but also worsened - namely the second speed takes off - then one cannot do without a visit to the master and major repairs.
So now you know why speed takes off on a VAZ 2110 and how to eliminate this unpleasant, and sometimes even dangerous, drawback.
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Shuron Dec 21, 2007
I put in 2nd gear, just hit the gas and be in neutral.
To go to the 2nd you have to keep the shift knob all the time.
What died in the box?
How long can you ride with such a jamb?
you have either the gear lock is broken, or the fork 1; 2 gears were demolished and the 2nd gear seemed to be not included, because of this, it crashes
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you have either the gear lock is broken, or the fork 1; 2 gears were demolished and the 2nd gear seemed to be not included, because of this, it crashes
box repair indiscriminate is not real?
How much to ride with such garbage, it won't jam something there?
box repair indiscriminate is not real?
How much to ride with such garbage, it won't jam something there?
It is unrealistic to fix it indiscriminately. He himself left 25 thousand, then the first one began to fly out Then he stole a new box and put it
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It is unrealistic to fix it indiscriminately. He himself left 25 thousand, then the first one began to fly out Then he stole a new box and put it
Thank you.
Can you give some advice on how to optimize your driving with such nonsense?
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The integrity of the retainer can be checked without removing the gearbox. To do this, you need to unscrew such a small lid (a piece of rectangular metal) on two bolts, there will be 3 holes under it. In each of them there is a ball and a spring, this cap presses on the springs, the springs on the balls, and they enter the grooves on the shaft, on which the forks are fixed and fix the shaft in the desired position. This is an old-style gearbox, installed earlier on the ninth family. On the tenth, they began to put a slightly different design - there is no this cap, but there are springs and balls, now each spring is held by crap like a bolt. Those. it all looks like 3 bolt heads located in one line close to each other. You can carefully unscrew the bolt and check the condition of the spring and ball. All this economy is located at the bottom of the box, next to it is the suspension rod (extension), the bolt heads look down and forward. When unscrewed, oil will flow and the contents will fall out.
Alternatively, see if anything interferes with turning on the 2nd gear in the area of the lever itself, under the cover.
The rest of the options entail the disassembly of the checkpoint.
Let's look at the springs with balls.
I looked under the cover, nothing interferes.
And someone rented the box himself in the garage, is this a gem?
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Hemorrhoids are relatively small, but if you already know how to remove them. It is better to take an assistant and work in the pit, it is possible without her, but it is more inconvenient.
I tried to remove the box myself, everything was done according to the instructions, three of us. evaporated, the body was broken when they tried to knock out the wheel drives, besides, everyone was overwhelmed. in the end everything was assembled as it was and went to the service. And there they were amazed - how they do everything cleverly, in general the advice is this - if there is a friend who has already encountered boxes, you can try to take it off. but the first time, in my opinion, is better in service, before that I was the forty-first Muscovite - I went through two times, and there were no such problems, but here for this bolt - one special key - for that other. for example, turn the starter key to 15! needed. these are the pies (by the way, after repair in the service, the body was covered with cold welding, while it is holding)
Thank you.
Can you give some advice on how to optimize your driving with such nonsense?
Advice one, after switching to second gear, keep the lever in the second gear position. Under load, it usually does not fly out, only when the engine speed is decelerated. In general, it would be necessary to repair it.
Advice one, after switching to second gear, keep the lever in the second gear position.Under load, it usually does not fly out, only when the engine speed is decelerated. In general, it would be necessary to repair it.
I have the same nonsense began to appear with the first gear ((((while I hold my hand through time, the car passed 56 thousand, damn expensive box repair, I don’t want to climb.
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It depends on what you want to upgrade there.
The cheapest option is to repair what you have yourself, but if there are hands growing straight.
People say that hands are and grow almost straight. Only now the frost has begun, and the garage is cold, so with this option you have to wait until summer.
Walking is not an option. You need to contact the servicemen. So I ask what is the best way to proceed, take a new box or fix this one?
For the money, it is certainly more expensive to take a new one, but in the services they say that the repair one will travel for another half a year and then the same crap.
If there is money, it is better to put my opinion on a new one. Spare parts are of poor quality, you still can't do it yourself, and so there is less hemorrhoids. And you will pokurochish the old one, maybe you will change it, and then you will either sell it or put it on. But I don't think cold welding is good.
A new box - the same spare part (rejected at the factory or assembled from stolen parts in a nearby garage) - is not the best example.
The advantage of hand-made repairs is that later it will be possible to drive with confidence on this box and not expect a “surprise” from it, besides, you can put the “necessary” shafts, change the gear ratios, etc. whatever your heart desires.
As far as I remember, the second gear initially flew out - what to do there with cold welding. ? or to smear a broken clutch basket with it?
If without options to do one hundred percent, then a new gearbox of course can also be (since I would not entrust the bulkhead to anyone, only myself).
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Everything, the complete end has come!
The clutch pedal fell through, the clutch fell apart! Now you can't do without repairs, so I'm thinking, put a new gearbox or repair this one with some modernization?
What does he think? What will be cheaper?
Happy new year, sir! You know, I am always interested in the first question - how do you drive? I do not want to itch and be branded as a "smart guy" BUT. You can kill Maybach in a day, or you can travel on a “kopeck” for 30 years. Based on the driving style and, accordingly, and put salary on your horse. Sporty - put on the ceramics of the tractive connection, Brembo brakes, lei 98, on average - put on the conveyor belt or, if there is an appropriate income, the e / p is better. But this is my personal opinion, without claims to the absolute. 😉
There was a nuisance, the VAZ 2110 gearbox had to be repaired. Repair of the unit is required when:
- it is difficult to disengage and engage gears.
- self-switching off of gears.
- the occurrence of noise when changing gears.
- transmission oil leak.
The reasons for the breakdown may be different, perhaps the timely oil change did not occur or the mechanism, simply, has exhausted its resource.
How is the VAZ 2110 gearbox repair carried out? Do-it-yourself VAZ 2110 checkpoint repair, video.
There are situations when the removal of the gearbox is not at all necessary, it is enough to adjust it. VAZ 2110 very often have problems with gear shifting, they are knocked out. To eliminate this problem, it is not at all necessary to remove the box, it is enough to adjust the gear selection drive mechanism. It is enough to get by with the adjustment in the following cases:
- not so long ago, the input shaft bearing was replaced or any other repair where the gearbox was removed.
- only one speed takes off.
- while the car is moving, the speed does not switch well or jumps out altogether.
To adjust the gearbox you need:
- Loosen the nut with the bolt, which is located under the machine, tightening the clamp for securing the box pull.
- Using a screwdriver, push apart the clamp and the grooves of the rod. Place the stem in neutral.
- Remove the cover from the gearbox.
- In order to block the reverse gear, you need to put the lever in the window of the bracket cover.
- Adjust the axial play in the rear direction and by turning to the left.
- Put the clamp in place and tighten with the bolt.
In the above situations, a simple gearbox adjustment will suffice. This is much better than repairing the VAZ 2110 gearbox, disassembling and assembling the gearbox.
Procedure for disassembling the gearbox:
- Remove the oil gauge from the gearbox. Remove the bolts holding the clutch cable.
- Remove the bolts holding the rear cover. The cover is hermetically sealed, therefore, when removing, you can resort to using a hammer.
- In order to prevent the shafts from turning during disassembly of the gearbox, turn on the third or fourth speed. Then unscrew the bolt that fixes the fifth gear.
- Remove the fifth gear with the fork together.
- Then, remove the gear from the output shaft and the fork. Then remove the plate that protects the bearings.
Below you can see the repair of the VAZ 2110 gearbox with your own hands video.
Having started to repair the VAZ 2110 gearbox, after all the actions described above, it is required to disassemble the crankcase and the working mechanism. Getting started:
- We unscrew the spring plugs that hold the gear rods. After the plugs are unscrewed, end balls will fall out of the holes. We do the same with the plug that holds the reverse gear. If the balls did not fall out of the holes, then you can get them using a magnetic screwdriver.
- Next, we unscrew the bolts that secure the gearbox housing to the clutch housing. After the bolts have been loosened, you can use a screwdriver to detach the crankcases.
- Next step. Unscrew the rod from the first and second gear forks.
- We do the same with the third, fourth and fifth gears, respectively. To remove the rod, it must be removed along with the gear shift parts.
- It is necessary to remove the axle from the reverse gear and, of course, the gear.
- Next, get the differential and two shafts with gears. Unscrew the three bolts that secure the gear mechanism and remove it from the crankcase.
- Remove the rear arm bolt and remove the stem.
- If necessary, remove the bearings of the input and output shaft with a cage.
Dismantling of the VAZ 2110 gearbox is completed.
Let's take a look at the most common problems:
The problem concerns the first transmission rate. It turns on very hard, when shifting gears, an extraneous sound is emitted, the speed flies out while driving.
The reasons may be as follows:
- The synchronizer could be damaged.
- The retainer spring has burst or is defective.
- The speeds can switch independently due to the weakening of the lever.
- Stock or plug problem. We need to replace them.
The next problem concerns the second gear. Most often, motorists are faced with the fact that the second speed jumps out or there are difficulties when it is turned on.
The following reasons may lie behind this:
- The gear teeth are worn out, as a result of which they do not adhere well to the gearshift clutch. In this case, it is imperative to repair the VAZ 2110 gearbox. In the future, this can serve as a transmission departure.
- If the transmission is flying out exclusively when driving on bumps, then we can say with confidence that the cause of this is a problem with the clutch.
Very often, in order to fix the problem with the second speed, you just need to change the fixing spring. If, after replacing the spring, the speed continues to fly out, then you need to remove the gearbox and make a major overhaul.
The occurrence of extraneous noise in the gearbox may be due to bearings that have failed. In order to find out, you need to check the backlash of the roller bearings that are installed in the clutch housing, the rolling bearings located on the primary and secondary shafts.
You need to check the forks and gear rods very carefully.These parts tend to deteriorate very quickly. If there are any obvious signs of deterioration of these mechanisms, then they must be immediately replaced with new ones. You can buy these parts at car dealerships.
If a motorist has a little experience in repairing a VAZ 2110 gearbox, then he can safely repair the gearbox on his own. From this article, it is clear that this is not so difficult to do. Even a car owner, who does not have enough experience and skills, can cope with this problem. But if, nevertheless, a person is far from this, and has no idea what and how to do, in this case, turning to a specialist for help will be the right decision. Of course, when contacting specialists for help, it will cost the car owner a certain amount of money. But it's better to pay the money and get a quick and high-quality gearbox repair.
Hello, your forum was advised!
I would like to know if anyone has had this and why, and what to do next?
1 transfer takes off. That is, at first it sometimes flew out, then it came to the point that it only works by holding it with a hand.
2001 car VAZ 21102 mileage 26,000. Store carefully.
What is the problem, or how much will the repair cost?
I went to the Auto Service alone, they told me that 4500r removal of the checkpoint, bulkhead, installation, without parts. Is it so expensive, or is it still cheap?
I used the search.
I found such topics, but such as I did not seem to have.
There is no click and no sound, no grinding, everything is very quiet.
Flies out, even without load and not uphill.
It is not as difficult to repair a checkpoint on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands as it might seem at first glance. You will have to arm yourself with a set of tools, the necessary new parts to replace old ones, a few photos and videos for clarity, as well as an operation and repair manual. Plus, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with our material, which will make complex manipulations much easier.
To begin with, it will not be superfluous to study a video about repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. This is for clarity, so to speak.
The principle of the device is as follows:
- To switch gears, the input shaft works in the box. It consists of a block of gears that are permanently meshed with the drive gears from 1 to 5 gears (driving the vehicle forward).
- The second shaft is equipped with a main gear drive gear, on which synchronizers are also located. They are responsible for the forward movement of the driven gears. The oil sump and bearing are located in the same place.
- The driven gear of the main drive is attached to the two-satellite differential "tens" through the flange of the box.
- The actuator includes a shift knob, ball joints, select rod, rods, a gear selection mechanism and a direct gear change mechanism.
- The task of jet thrust is to prevent the speed from flying out. Its ends are fixed to the support and the engine.
It is far from always necessary to remove it to establish the operation of the box. Although if it is envisaged to replace the gearbox bearings or other repair measures, a simple adjustment cannot be dispensed with.
Adjustment is required in several situations:
- Recently, the main shaft bearings were replaced with a VAZ 2110 or another type of repair with the mandatory removal of the gearbox;
- There is a constant departure of one of the speeds;
- The gears switch tightly, badly, or they are knocked out directly while driving.
If you are faced with one of these situations, then adjustment will not be avoided. Although this is better than dismantling and full repair of the gearbox. The operation is performed as follows:
- From the bottom of the car, find the nut and bolt that tighten the gearbox linkage clamp. It does not need to be completely removed, but simply loosened a little.
- The grooves of the rod are slightly moved apart with a regular screwdriver, and also widen the gap in the clamp. This will make it easier for the rod to move to the speed selection rod. The stem must be set to neutral.
- Remove the cover from the gear knob.
- According to the template, set the lever - the template is installed in the window of the bracket for blocking the reverse gear. Next, the stop of the lever axis is inserted into the existing groove of the template. It needs to be pressed in the transverse direction, but not apply much force.
- Now the axial play of the rod in the rear direction is adjusted, plus the axial play is adjusted by turning to the left.
- The clamp is put in place, leaving a few millimeters of space to the end of the rod. The clamp is now properly tightened with the bolt.
If the adjustment did not give the desired result, you will have to work more carefully with the box. A common problem is knocking out gears responsible for 1 and 2 speeds.
When disassembling, make sure that each individual retainer is in good working order. The retainers are springs, of which there are a total of three. The first is the longest, it is responsible for 1 and 2 speeds. The second is medium in size, and his prerogative is 3 and 4 speeds. The third retainer is the smallest, and its “guardian” is the fifth gear.
The owners of the VAZ 2110 car note several characteristic faults in the gearboxes for this model. Someone does not turn on the reverse speed, others complain about the departure, and so on.
Let's consider the most popular problems that the box of the domestic “ten” can boast of.
- First speed problem. It can fly out or be difficult to turn on in a car. There are several reasons:
- The synchronizer is out of order;
- The retainer spring has a defect, it has burst;
- The lever is loose, due to which the speeds switch spontaneously;
- The stem is out of order or the fork is faulty, their obligatory replacement is required.
- Second gear problem. She is often knocked out, or it is difficult to switch to her. There may also be several reasons for such a malfunction:
- The gear teeth cling poorly to the gearshift clutch;
- The tips of the teeth are worn out, worn out, because the speed is difficult to turn on. Over time, it will start to fly out. Therefore, repairs are required;
- If the transmission knocks out when hitting bumps, then there is nothing good about it - the problem lies in the failing clutch.
Having experience, relevant knowledge and skills makes it possible to deal with PPC problems with your own hands. If all this is missing, we strongly recommend contacting a trusted service center, where they will carry out diagnostics, determine the true causes of the problem and bring your gearbox back to its former state. Yes, it will cost some money, but you can't do without it. Nothing is eternal. Moreover, the gearbox "tens".
Intervention in the VAZ-2110 gearbox is required in cases where there are extraneous noises and problems with shifting. To complete the repair, you will need new items, consumables, appropriate tools, a vehicle operating manual and the recommendations given in this article.
Before repairing, it is advisable to understand the principles of the operation of the gearbox installed on the VAZ 2110 model. The principle of operation of the gear unit is as follows:
- the device has a primary shaft consisting of a block of gears. They are permanently coupled with gears intended for vehicle movement (drive gears);
- a drive gear is installed on the second shaft, on which synchronizers are located. There is also a bearing and an oil sump;
- by means of a flange, the driven gear of the main drive is connected to the two-satellite differential;
- elements of the device are also rods, ball joints, a lever and mechanisms for switching;
- so that the speed does not "fly out", the unit provides for jet thrust, the ends of which are fixed on the power unit and support.
If it is necessary to replace gears, bearings or other parts, then the box must be dismantled. Usually in such cases it is carried out bulkhead gearbox VAZ 2110 and replacement of items that are out of order. But removing the box is not always required.
It is known that the top ten have problems with gear shifting. In fact, the speed is knocking out.
To eliminate the problem, the unit is equipped with a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the drive.
The operation is performed in the following cases:
- the gearbox was dismantled in connection with repairs, for example, replacing the bearings of the input shaft;
- during movement of speed knocks out;
- transmissions are poorly turned on or off.
If such situations arise, then adjustment is indispensable.
Of course, this procedure is much easier than dismantling work. The work is performed in the following sequence:
- at the bottom of the vehicle is a nut in a bolt. This fastener holds the transmission link mount. The fastener does not need to be removed: just unscrew the nut a little;
- to move apart the grooves of the rod and the slot of the fastening clamp, it is enough to use a flat screwdriver;
- the stem must be set to neutral. Then you need to remove the cover from the gearbox handle;
- then the lever is set in accordance with the template;
- at the next stage, it is necessary to adjust the backlash of the back vector rod;
- axial play adjustment;
- at the final stage, the mount must be installed in place and tightened.
Adjustment does not always achieve the desired effect. Therefore, the motorist will need to carry out repair work. Practice shows that most often knocks out the gears, which are responsible for the first and second speeds. When disassembling, the car owner needs to make sure that all the clips are in good condition. These are 3 springs. 1 structure serves the first and second speed, 2 - the third fourth, and 3 - the fifth. The first retainer is at its maximum length.
Before performing DIY VAZ 2110 checkpoint repair, video it is recommended to carefully study the material, as well as to familiarize yourself with the instruction manual.
Let's dwell on the most common malfunctions that occur in the model 10 gearbox. In fact, there are a lot of problems with the VAZ-2110 gearbox. Often the first gear turns on poorly (or takes off) the main reasons:
- synchronizer wear;
- damage to the retainer. Most often, the spring bursts;
- the lever is not fixed. This leads to spontaneous engagement of gears;
- the stock has become unusable;
- damaged gearbox plug.
The owner of the top ten may face the same problems as when turning on the first speed. In any case, the malfunctions are due to the following reasons:
- abrasion of gear teeth. In the first stages, the speed turns on poorly, and over time it will start to take off. Therefore, surgery is required;
- insufficient adhesion of the gear with the gear shift clutch;
- the speed is turned off when driving over irregularities in the road surface. In this case, the problem is the adhesion.
Sometimes, to eliminate knocking out the second gear, it is enough to replace the retainer. If the replacement does not allow achieving the desired result, then a major overhaul is required.
Adjustment in this case will not solve the problem. It is quite difficult to carry out repair work with your own hands. Unlike adjusting and replacing oil seals, overhauls require professional skills.
It should be noted that the gearbox is a fairly stable unit of the vehicle. In comparison with other units, breakdowns occur here much less often. It should be remembered that for the normal functioning of the box, you should change the oil in a timely manner, and use the products of proven brands. In terms of their performance, the gearboxes are almost the same. If we are talking about front-wheel drive cars, which include the VAZ-2110, then you can use the oil poured into the power unit. If we are talking about rear-wheel drive VAZs, then a special oil is provided for them.Sometimes car owners notice oil leaks. This is caused by the weak fastening of the box and the crankcase. The problem is solved with the help of seals, as well as careful tightening of the bolts.
In case of problems with the box, first of all, it is necessary to adjust the drive and replace parts that have failed as a result of physical wear and tear.
If the car owner has the skills and experience, then the repair of the gearbox of the VAZ-2110 car can be done with his own hands. In other cases, it is better to visit a proven auto repair shop and eliminate the deficiencies after professional diagnostics.
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- sergedreamlove
- New member
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- Registration: 2017-04-14
- Posts: 15Thank you: 2
- Auto: vaz 2110
Hi all! I have a VAZ 2110 99g, there was such a problem, the first and second gears stopped turning on, I removed the gearbox and disassembled it, I found on the magnet the retaining ring of the secondary shaft and the hub balls of the 1-2 gears.
I went and bought new bronze rings 5 pcs, a first gear gear, a slip clutch for 1-2 gears, a 1-2 gear hub, crackers for a 1-2 gear hub, a secondary shaft retaining ring, bearings for the secondary and primary shafts, oil seals for the input shaft and on the grenades, the release bearing, the clutch disc, the backstage cordon collected everything and ran into a problem when the internal combustion engine was started, when the first and third gears were turned on and neutral, there was a terrible screeching screeching and knocking out gears, tell me what to do.
I adjusted the backstage from the account lost how many times ((
Detailed step-by-step instructions for disassembling and assembling the gearbox of a VAZ 2110 car and its repair. Watch the video and photos of the procedure.
When starting to disassemble the gearbox, it should be noted that if in the gearbox, when it was repaired, one of the parts was replaced: bearings or differential housing, clutch housing, then it is necessary to replace the adjusting ring of the differential bearings. And then start disassembling the box itself.
We disassembled and repaired the gearbox of the VAZ 2110 car.
1. Remove the gearbox from the machine, clean it from various dirt and wash it from the outside.
2. The pointer that shows the oil level must be removed from the gearbox.
3. Place the gearbox in an upright position on the clutch housing and unscrew the bolt numbered 1 with a flat washer, and two nuts numbered 3 with a spring washer that secure the clutch cable bracket. Remove this bracket from the gearbox by unscrewing all the bolts.
4. On the back cover, unscrew all the remaining fastening bolts (there are four of them).
5. Remove this cover. To do this, using a screwdriver, you need to raise the tide located on the lid.
6. The bolt with spring washer holding the fifth gear fork must be removed.
7. Then it is necessary to prevent the gearbox shafts from turning. To do this, they need to be fixed: the synchronizer sleeve and the fork must be moved down with the fifth gear engaged so that the gear and the coupling splines are connected, then turn on the third or fourth gear by moving the gear selection rod.
8. It is necessary to loosen the nut securing the input shaft and unscrew it. You have to try this because the nut is very tight.
9. Then do the same with the output shaft, as well as with the primary.
10. In fifth gear, lift the driven gear with screwdrivers (doing this, the synchronizer hub is pressed from the shaft). Together with the gear, it is necessary to remove the synchronizer and the output shaft plug. But it is imperative to make sure that the synchronizer sleeve does not move out and remains on the hub, since the balls that fix the synchronizer can crumble.
11. Remove the thrust plate from above in the synchronizer, and then in the synchronizer itself in the groove of the coupling, get the fork.
12. The fifth gear and the locking ring (1) must also be removed from the synchroniser. It is necessary to number the blocking ring (1) and the coupling (2), and remove the ring.This must be done in order to put the ring in the same position as it was, because during operation the teeth of the coupling and the ring have already run in to each other. If there is no reason to disassemble the synchronizer, then it must be connected with something, so that it does not fall apart.
13. On the output shaft, remove the bushing.
14. There is a 5th gear drive gear on the input shaft. First you need to remove it and remember how it stood.
15. Remove the bearing plate (1). To do this, take an impact screwdriver and unscrew the four bolts with lock washers on the bearing plate mount. Remove thrust washer (2) on the output shaft.
16. Lift the two shafts by hand and remove the bearing circlip from them.
17. Unscrew the clips and take out the balls together with the springs.
18. Then unscrew the reverse lock, remove the O-ring, and remove the retainer spring.
19. Remove the retainer ball by tilting the box.
20. Unscrew twelve nuts and a bolt with spring washers on the fastening of the gearbox housings. Remember the place for the holder (1) and the eyelet (2). The process plug (3) must also be removed.
21. There are three special grooves along the crankcases. Insert a screwdriver there and disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox housing.
22. Raising the gearbox housing, turn it to the left until the crankcase comes out from under the gear. Then remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.
24. Raising the shift rod for the first and second gears, watch when it comes out of the support (3), and then turn it to the left until the head (1) stops clinging to the locking bracket (2). Remove the rod with a fork; to do this, remove the rod fork (4) from the groove of the synchronizer coupling. If there is no need to remove the plug from the rods, then it is not necessary, as you can later confuse them.
25. The head of the shift rod of the third and fourth gears must be disconnected from the gear selection lever by turning the rod. Then raise the stem so that it does not have support, and remove the stem with the fork by pulling them out of the groove of the synchronizer coupling.
26. Remove the fifth gear engaging rod from the support by turning it and taking out the head, which was connected to the locking bracket.
27. Remove the idler reverse gear axle.
28. Remove the intermediate gear. To do this, you need to move the reverse idler gear to the gear selection mechanism, turn it 30-40 degrees and remove it from under the shaft gears.
29. Remove the primary and secondary shafts at the same time, slightly shaking them.
30. Remove the differential in the clutch housing.
31. On the mount in the gear selection mechanism, unscrew three bolts with spring washers and remove that mechanism.
32. Remove the magnet in the clutch housing.
33. On the housing of the speedometer drive with the driven gear, unscrew the nut and remove the housing itself. If the body o-ring has no elasticity or is torn, it must be replaced.
34. There is a metal sealing ring under the reversing light switch, so unscrew the switch. It is located in the gearbox housing.
35. Then press out the output shaft bearing with a special puller or screwdriver.
36. Remove the oil sump located under the bearing.
37. Press out the input shaft bearing with a special puller. If this is not available, then it is necessary to bend the wire in the shape of a hook, insert it into the groove of the crankcase and place the hook under the bearing. Using a screwdriver, press out the bearing from the crankcase, placing a wooden block under the screwdriver and knock on the screwdriver with a hammer, rearranging the hook in the grooves.
38. In the clutch housing, taking a suitable mandrel, press in the new front bearings to the stop.
39. Move the edge in the protective cover of the selector shaft using a screwdriver. Slide the lip together with the stem support sleeve.
40. Move the stem by unscrewing the bolt on the gear selector lever mount and remove this lever. Then remove the gear selector rod in the clutch housing.
41.If it is necessary to replace the stem hinge, it is necessary to move the protective cover on it and unscrew the bolt on the hinge mount. For strength, TB-1324 glue was applied to the bolt. Therefore, before assembling, clean the bolt and apply this glue. If the protective cover in the stem hinge is frayed or not elastic, then it must be replaced.
42. Replace the clutch housing. To do this, remove the clutch release fork and bearing from the boat, then press out the oil seals.
43. In the clutch housing and gearbox, it is necessary to check all surfaces of the rear cover. If there are minor damages, they can be cleaned with sandpaper, and in case of significant damage, any part, such as cracks, chips, dents, should be replaced.
44. Then check the clutch housing and gearbox for integrity. In case of any defects, the crankcase must be replaced.
45. Check roller bearings. If the rollers, raceway or cage are damaged, then they must be replaced and installed on the shaft, taking into account that when measuring the radial clearance, its value should be no more than 0.07 mm. If there is play in the bearing, then it must also be replaced.
46. When checking the gear shift rods, replace them if they are bent, there are burrs or scuffs, the holes for the clips have worked out or there are irregularities. Also replace the forks if they are defective (for example, the legs are worn out or the forks are bent).
47. Check the seals of the axle shafts. If there are any tears, they look bad, the edge is uneven or with torn parts, with beads of rubber, the spring is stretched or broken, then change the oil seals.
48. It is also worth checking and, if necessary, replacing the oil seal of the selector shaft and the oil seal of the input shaft.
49. When checking a magnet, if it is intact, then it is easy to clean it from dirt, and if there are small cracks or it already does not magnetise well, then it should be replaced.
50. The surfaces of the gearbox and clutch housings, as well as the rear cover, are very well cleaned of sealant.
51. The teeth of the gears must engage and be installed in the clutch housing, and then install the shafts.
52. When installing forks on the gear shift rods, you need to know: 1 - the stock together with the shift fork for the first and second gears, and 2 - the stock together with the shift fork for the third and fourth gears.
53. All parts that rotate must be well lubricated with gear oil.
54. Place the magnet in its place.
55. It is necessary to install the gearbox housing on the clutch housing, while it is imperative to lubricate all contacting surfaces with sealants for better connection with each other. Also lubricate the mating surfaces with sealants when connecting the rear cover to the transmission case.
Video on disassembling the VAZ 2109 gearbox:
Video (click to play). |