Do-it-yourself gazelle heater tap repair business

In detail: do-it-yourself business gazelle heater tap repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If signs of malfunction or malfunction are detected, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics to identify the causes of the breakdown. One of the reasons why the heater began to heat worse, or when completely cold air comes out of it, is the faucet of the Gazelle stove. It either does not fully open, or is completely closed. For any of these signs, it is necessary first of all to check the correct operation of the electric crane.

On a warm engine, touch the pipes before and after the electric crane. In the extreme hot position of the temperature adjustment knob, the branch pipe before and after the electric tap must be at the same temperature.
Check the power supply on the electric valve when switching the temperature.
If there is no power, check the fuse and replace if necessary.
Check the strainer at the inlet, the liquid must flow freely through the holes.
With the tap removed and the power supply connected, you must look into it through the light. By changing the position of the temperature regulator (from minimum to maximum), make sure that the shutter is fully opened at the hottest position of the handle.

After it has been established that it is the electric crane that is faulty, it must be dismantled. For this:

Drain the coolant from the vehicle cooling system into a prepared container.
Disconnect the terminals from the heater electric valve.
Loosen the clamps on the branch pipes and disconnect them.
Disassemble and determine the reasons for the failure. There may be several of them:

the electric motor is out of order;
burned out electrical board;
the gearbox for opening and closing the shutter is out of order;
drip seal;
the case burst.

Video (click to play).

If it is possible to replace parts without replacing the entire mechanism, then such an action will be advisable if you have spare parts in stock, or they can be purchased for little money. Since, having changed one of the parts, with a high degree of probability one can expect that the other will soon fail. Of course, it is better to replace the entire assembly, but this is not always possible.

The main problem that causes electronics to fail is moisture. And in the tap, the liquid circulates constantly, even with the shutter closed. And when the stuffing box leaks, the liquid fills the entire electrical part, and it fails.

In order to avoid this, you can install a conventional shut-off valve by fitting it to the outlets of the cooling system. But in order to open or close the hot liquid supply, you need to manually move the valve to the desired position. And since it is installed under the hood (in its regular place), it is not possible to do this while driving. But on the other hand, the resource of this mechanism is much greater.

Before installing a new electric crane, you need to disassemble it and fill the electronic board with hot glue to avoid moisture getting on it, coat all joints with sealant. This method can only prolong the performance, because if liquid enters the electronic part, the electric motor will be damaged, without which the mechanism will not be able to function correctly.

Installation of a crane with a similar arrangement of fittings from other car brands. This method is the most effective, since the resource of the imported manufacturers of this equipment is much higher than that of the domestic one. The main thing is to choose the most similar specimen. And after installation, check its operation on the car.

The above methods of diagnostics and repair will help you in the shortest possible time to identify the cause of the malfunction and to replace or repair the failed equipment. Repair and installation of a heater tap on a Gazelle Business UMZ 4216 will not cause you any special difficulties. This type of repair does not require extensive experience. It can be produced on the road with a minimum set of tools.

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Any violation of the operating mode and as a result - the stove does not heat in Gazelle Business... But more often than not, the heater stops working normally and for no apparent reason. For example, when power is applied, the fan turns on and drives warm air, but it is worth starting the engine and the heater, or it turns off completely or drives cold air.

On new machines, the stove may fail after a few weeks.

The stove in Gazelle Business also does not heat for reasons not directly related to its design. For example, in the event of a thermostat malfunction, or in the event of a failure in the on-board power supply system.

The design of the heater is thought out in such a way as to check the operability of any of its parts, not to mention diagnostics, it is necessary to completely remove the entire stove body and disassemble it, having previously dismantled the entire front panel in the cabin.

Without removing the torpedo, only the radiator can be replaced, because it can be accessed through the glove compartment.

According to one of the drivers, in order to replace the same valve motor, you need to “pick up a bucket of self-tapping screws” while you remove the front panel.

In order to protect yourself as much as possible from this time-consuming operation, it is better first check the electrical supply circuit voltage on the stove. The heater is powered through the fuse box and fan relay.

First, the integrity of the fuse is checked, without energizing. After that, you need to check the functionality of the relay. There are known cases when the relay had a bad contact connection and was constantly leaving.

You need to apply power and move the relay case. If the miracle did not happen, and the fan did not hum, then its replacement is necessary.

Check the damper motor can you hear... When the power is on and the temperature setting knob is turned, the sound of a running gear motor should be heard. If absolutely necessary, when the gearmotor fails on the road and it is necessary to direct air to the glass, it is necessary to remove the draft from the damper and set it to the required position manually.

On Gazelle Business, the control of the interior heating system is combined and is carried out both in manual mode by means of levers, and using push-button control from the instrument panel.

The heating operation scheme is standard - air is supplied through the frontal air intakes by suction by a fan with an electric motor, after which it passes through the deflector system and enters directly into the car cab.

Cooler intake into the heater radiator controlled by a damper, the angle of which is driven by an electric motor. The electric motor for the drive of the damper is of Italian production, which does not at all guarantee against its breakdown, which often happen to it on this Gazelle brand.

Engine management The damper valve is carried out in automatic mode and depends on the set air temperature at the outlet. In the design of the stove, there is also a damper, which is regulated by an electrically driven gearmotor and can direct part of the air flow bypassing the radiator.

This is one of the main differences between the Business model heater and the later Gazelles, on which the angle of the flaps was changed using a cable system.

The imperfection and ill-conceivedness of the heater design leads to the fact that when the stove on the Gazelle Business does not heat up, it is necessary to look for the cause of the malfunction for a long time. If the car is under warranty, the best option would be to contact a service station.

The owner of a long gazelle business came to us from the distant northern Urals, the city of Novy Urengoy, with a complaint about a faulty stove, says the stove does not heat at all, but he bought this workhorse from his hands the other day and did not check the stove's performance, so you need to figure out the malfunctions. Errors light up on the diasplay E3 and E7 (E3 and E7).

And so, we begin the check with a visual inspection of the heater control unit (BUO) 2705-8121020. Fault lights up on the display E3... Looking ahead, let's say that this malfunction is associated with the motor reducer of the heater flap (90.3780) or MR-2-01, which is located next to the driver's right foot under the dashboard. Looking under the panel, deciding to check whether both connectors are latched, we did not find this gear motor, but only the connectors were dangling. Apparently the previous owner removed the gear motor, but did not install the new one. We install a new gear motor.

Video. Checking the heater flap reducer motor (90.3780) or MR-2-01.

With this geared motor (90.3780) connected 2 errors:
E3 - malfunction of the damper position sensor (rheostat), which determines the current position of the damper.
E6 - malfunction of the motor itself, the gear motor, which controls the damper.We check the heater's performance, turn on the ignition. Error E3 disappeared, but an error lit up E7... The stove is still blowing cold air, although the geared motor 90.3780 works properly. Next, we check the heater tap, because it is responsible for supplying hot coolant to the heater radiator, and also because of it an error lights up E7... We set the temperature regulator on the control unit to the hottest position by hand, we check the hoses going to the heater radiator.We have both pipes going to the radiator of the stove turned out to be cold, although the pump is working and the supply hose to the tap is hot, which means for some reason the tap does not open. The easiest way to check the operation of the crane is to turn the temperature regulator to the maximum and minimum on a muffled car. The stove tap should emit characteristic clicks, indicating its work. But we did not hear any sounds, which means we are conducting a more detailed check. We start by checking the stove tap connector.First, check the +12 volt power supply (orange tap wire, white wire of the wiring connector), ground (black tap wire and black wiring connector wire) and control signals to the heater tap: brown tap (brown wiring connector) - heat, white tap (green connector wiring) - cold.For clarity and to check the performance of the control unit, we will assemble a simple probe on LEDs. It will clearly show us whether cold / heat control signals are being sent from the control unit.If one of the control signals is absent, then you should ring the wiring from the heater tap to the control unit - these are green and brown wires. In our case, there was no control signal on the brown wire, which is just responsible for supplying heat.When the ignition is turned on and the heater tap is connected, a voltage of about +10 should hang on the green and brown wires. +12 volts coming from the heater tap. At the time of heat / cold adjustment, a control minus should appear on one of these wires. If there is no control signal, then the control transistor in the control unit itself has burned out. To check the control transistors, you need to disassemble the climate system unit and check the control keys.The blue transistor is responsible for switching to the cold position, the red transistor is responsible for controlling the hot positionIn this circuitry, n-p-n SMD transistors in the sot23 package are used to control the crane. To replace a non-working key, you can use any N-P-N transistor designed for a collector current of at least 100mA and a voltage of at least 20 volts, for example, a common transistor BC547... Or C945, which we just found. Here is a short diagram of a power transistor.In our case, the red control key was faulty, which is just responsible for the supply of heat.You can install the SMD transistor in another package, for example, in TO92, but you have to solder and bend the legs.After replacing the faulty transistor, the heater valve began to work as needed, an error E7 disappeared, and the interior of our gazelle began to warm 🙂Article author: Alexander Dmitriev (AlastaR)

Messages: 6120
UAZ Patriot
Lifan breez

alnor, January 29, 2012, 22:42, # 1

Gazelle business, Ulyanovsk engine. the cockpit is so dubious. antifreeze is visually normal. who faced this. or is there a diagram like with a 402 engine and an old cabin?

wow, you are really out of order. supplies to us goes to such a Tashkent. that the temperate blows weakly. or starts blowing when the revolutions. more write what up how

certainly not okay. here I read some kind of electric power on the branch pipe. tomorrow I'll see it myself, and then I'll go to the service. it is interesting to do it under the guarantee or not. the pipes must be touched or something. too lazy to climb. and so in the parking lot it started warming up to 80 glass, the air moved well, about 20 degrees, in general, a little warm, it started to get cold, well, in short. like this. I was with 405 and the old panel of the 6th place, the heat in a blouse went to Moscow in winter, but I don’t unbutton my stsuko down jacket.

They must definitely fix it under warranty, I'm also chasing in my gazelle in a photobolt, finally it's hot

Posts: 553
Location: Belorechensk
Mitsubishi Pajero 3.etc. 3.2l. 165hp

Either the thermostat is covered, turned on and feel it, or the stove tap does not open. Put the pump on the stove, it costs 700 rubles and I forgot. It often airs, but the pump does not care, it will push it right away.

Messages: 10705
Location: RS (Yakutia)
SsangYong Actyon Sports AX-7 is cool!
Nissan Bluebird Le-Grand

Yeah, I put a gazelle electric pump on the UAZ, it helped

True, she herself dripped a little (it turned out to be clumsy) Shl-thermos malfunctioning, let the OD change, if that.

Guys tell me; Today I began to start a business, gas went black smoke, I opened the hood and where the rail goes to the injectors, gasoline is dripping straight onto the catalyst, what the hell is that.

Posts: 1191
Location: Nizhny Novgorod
Volvo FH 12
GAZ Gazelle

First, look at the antifreeze in the tank, it quickly leaves the UMP. Check the hoses near the electric tap before and after to be hot. In general, the stove is hot on gazelles

Messages: 10705
Location: RS (Yakutia)
SsangYong Actyon Sports AX-7 is cool!
Nissan Bluebird Le-Grand

sasha944, 5 February 2012, 09:47, # 7

This is to the fire

Probably a crack in the ramp. It would be better if you bought KIA-Bongo.

Posts: 5
Location: St. Petersburg

Posts: 5
Location: St. Petersburg

next to the battery (if you stand with your face behind it), disconnect the black chip and fill in the simplest antifreeze! I have Tashkent

I have a Business Gazelle It was cold in the cockpit What is strange At times the stove burned in a bad way but Sometimes not very Today the electric drive of the stove damper is smoked up next to the Accumulator (not the fact that it’s called that) I drained the antifreeze and I saw a FILTER MESH at the entrance and it’s almost shitty What will be heat without circulators I cleaned the mesh and bought a new one Tomorrow I'll see what happened

The trouble is the same, slightly warm air blows, changed the pump, the electric faucet of the stove, put in an additional pump, came to the conclusion that the central flap does not overlap

December 15, 2014, 13:49 # 15 + 1

and to get to it, you need to disassemble the entire torpedo, in short, the gazelle business was invented by the devil, this is a fact.

Messages: 4842
Location: Eastern Territory of the Voronezh Region

Driver of the Infernal Machine, December 15, 2014, 13:47, # 14

The trouble is the same, slightly warm air blows, changed the pump, the electric faucet of the stove, put in an additional pump, came to the conclusion that the central flap does not overlap

ajirkov36, December 15, 2014, 20:11, # 16

In two days, I took apart the entire panel and took out a ..bathing stove

, the central flap is in order, the rest of the flaps were repaired (stratified), the radiator itself was removed (a little wet)

, I spat, I disassembled, there are not even coils there, not a single one, I foul-mouthed and decided to modify, I bought a stove from a VAZ 2110 (copper 2 rows), I worked a bit on the body and now the miracle came up, that's just trouble with the pipes, tomorrow I hope to finish it, the shops are closed

... Unsubscribe tomorrow what a miracle it will turn out.

gentlemen, I washed the repair of the stove, everything was received in a hurry, I will describe everything tomorrow in all details, today I cannot

Messages: 4842
Location: Eastern Territory of the Voronezh Region

Driver of the Infernal Machine, December 17, 2014, 22:38, # 18

gentlemen, I washed the repair of the stove, everything was received in a hurry, I will describe everything tomorrow in all details, today I cannot

Sorry gentlemen. At first, the intercity was almost a week, and at the end of the illness ((((. minus standing still for about 2-3 hours, the stove is airy, the native pump does not hold out, it is necessary to put in an additional pump.

, but I would advise you to try for a start, just change the radiator of the stove (on your own, which is suitable, because the removal of the entire panel Zh..OPA is complete.

December 27, 2014, 18:06 # 21 + 1

If you have any questions, I will try to help, and by the way, ALL WITH THE COMING, ALL HEALTH AND WELL-BEING.

Today I drove to Eburg, overboard - 20, an hour later I took off my down jacket and boots, but while I was driving through their corks, the stove was airy, I went out onto the track and it stretched, I still need an additional pump.

Messages: 4842
Location: Eastern Territory of the Voronezh Region

December 29, 2014, 21:56 # 23 + 1

Driver of the Infernal Machine, December 29, 2014, 21:54, # 22

And what's the problem, bet and you will be happy!

ajirkov36, December 29, 2014, 21:56, # 23

And what's the problem, bet and you will be happy!

Hi Andrey :-) the whole world is shit, all women are people

in real life spun :-) glad to see

Posts: 736
Location: Sverdlovsk region Kamensk-U
Daewoo Matiz 0.8 Mx

Driver of the Infernal Machine, December 29, 2014, 21:54, # 22

Check the tightness of the engine cooling system and all the pipes should not air if there are no antifreeze leaks anywhere. (In general, on the Gazelle, all rubber hoses need to be replaced in 3-4 years, this is from practice, about 200,000 km. Mileage). the effect is good, but it was better when they installed a 3-row copper Gazel radiator instead of the standard two-row aluminum radiator (though I had to fit it in place, but the stove warmed up perfectly, the engine was a 405 injector).

The problem is this. It's cold in the cabin. The driver's stove always blows cold air. And the additional stove in the cabin blows barely warm and not always ...

Since this Gazelle is in my service, I previously changed my own additional electric pump on it to a BOSH electric pump. This is a measure to help circulate coolant through the pipes.

There can be several reasons for the violation of the circulation of coolant through the heating circuits:

airing the system
clogged heater radiator
clogging of rubber pipes
the main pump has exhausted its resource

In my case, the airing is no longer necessary. All air was removed from the system and did not help. More precisely, it helped, but not much.

Therefore, it was decided to go from simple to more complex - first check the radiators and pipes for blockages and then look further.

First of all, for the convenience of work, we remove the front passenger seat.

Remove the cover from the rear stove. We unscrew the stove itself and remove the side cover in order to remove the additional radiator for the Gazelle interior heater.

He took the radiator to the pouring. At home, we connect with two rubber hoses to hot water and give pressure. We determine the uniformity of the heating zones of the radiator by hand. In my case, the radiator warmed up normally and evenly, but it was installed with the lower branch pipe upwards. And, accordingly, it had a constant airlock at the top.Some of the previous installers screwed up ...

Then, remove the driver's heater radiator. To do this, unscrew the glove compartment and take it out.

You can now reach the driver's heater radiator. First of all, you need to pay attention to possible coolant leaks in the area of the radiator and pipes. In my case, everything is dry.

True, the cavity in which the heater is located is pretty shitty ...

We carry the radiator for pouring. During pouring it turned out that this radiator was blocked. I had to clean it up and spill it seriously. After all the procedures, the radiator warmed up evenly and you can put it back.

Then, it is necessary to spill and blow through all the lines along which the coolant flows before and after the heaters. If there is any blockage, clean it. If there are old hoses that have lost their elasticity, replace them.

After all this is done, we collect everything back using a sealant. I replaced some of my own clamps with regular ones.

I went to the Gazelle for a test run. There is circulation through the pipes. The radiators warm up, but not enough. I drove onto a hill, in front of the car up. Gave 4000 rpm for 3 minutes. From the stoves "africa"!

I am driving back along the road, again the air is of average warmth ... Well, I think something is wrong here. I stop. I give again 3000 rpm. From the stoves "africa" ...

The verdict is clear and unpleasant - the main pump came up. To drive the coolant around the engine, it still drives, but there is no longer enough performance to ensure normal circulation to the salon ...

At first glance, it may seem that the GAZelle Business heater does not differ much from its imported counterparts. The heater is controlled using the buttons and levers of the electronic unit located on the control panel. The air is sucked in by the electric fan through the grilles under the windshield and into the passenger compartment through the air ducts. The heater crane GAZelle Business is powered by an electric drive and supplies coolant to the radiator. This valve differs from its predecessors by the presence of an additional fitting. Depending on the selected temperature, the valve is controlled by the automation system, and in the case of its closed position, the cooler is sent back to the cooling system. In addition, the air temperature in the passenger compartment is regulated by the electric valve of the GAZelle heater by the position of the damper, which determines the direction of the air: air can pass both through the radiator and bypassing it. In addition to the main damper, there are secondary, regulating and redistributing air flows.

If in previous versions of heaters cables were used to adjust the position of the dampers, now this function is performed by geared motors. The electric fan is located at the bottom of the structure and in order to get to it, it is necessary to disassemble the entire heater. For this reason, even the aspect that the engine is in an imported heater does not compensate for the general disadvantage with the location of the fan.

An electronic regulator is located on the heater body, due to which it becomes possible to smoothly adjust the fan speed. There is also a problem with access to it, as well as to other elements of the unit. The only thing that can be reached without disassembling a significant part of the system is the heater radiator. To do this, it is enough to dismantle the glove compartment. What if the stove does not work in the GAZelle Business system? Indeed, due to the lack of full-fledged access, the ability to diagnose equipment is lost. In such cases, the first step is to check the fuse. To check the performance of the gearmotor that controls the deflector flaps, there is no need to remove the entire panel completely - its lower part is removed from the driver's side. To diagnose it, a voltmeter or a test lamp is connected to the connectors with an electric motor and a latch. We activate the damper with the corresponding button in the ignition on mode.If the lamp is on, and the gearmotor does not show signs of life, it means that it must be replaced.
It is impossible to describe in words how to remove the tap of the GAZelle Business stove (like the electric heater itself), but with the help of the diagram you can get acquainted with its device and figure out what's what.

In this video you can see the stove repair Gazelle 3320 do it yourself. A stove radiator dripped on the gazelle, it was problematic to find a new radiator, so we will install a radiator from the disassembly from Mazda121. In addition, the heating fan does not work.

In order to get to the fan, you need to remove the torpedo, but we will go the other way. To do this, we remove the glove compartment, breaking off the factory adhesions and the lower sleeve, unscrewing the self-tapping screw from the bottom and 2 bolts by 6 from the top. Having done these operations, we get to the fan cover, unscrew the bolts, remove it and take the fan out of the compartment. We turn on the ignition and the fan, as a result, it spins with a jam and a squeak, we will treat. We remove all the terminals and go to a warm place to disassemble. We put marks on the engine and mounts with a marker so as not to get confused during assembly. We unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver and remove the side mounts.

After that, with a small screwdriver, unscrew the two bolts attaching the engine itself to the aluminum blades from the ends and remove these blades. We unscrew the two bolts near the bushing and remove the rotor from the stator. We wipe all the dirty places with a rag soaked in solvent, check the brushes, lubricate the bushings with lithol and assemble the engine in reverse order. We connect the terminals and assemble, everything is as it was, the engine is hard to enter its compartment, so a little power will not hurt. After that, we take up the radiator of the stove.

Insert the Mazda radiator into the place of the original radiator, fix it with corners. The remaining gaps on the sides are blown out with polyurethane foam, we connect the pipes to the radiator pipes. That's all done! And in more detail the whole process can be seen in the next video.

Maybe you will also be interested in looking at the crash tests of Russian cars.. Image - DIY gazelle heater tap repair

In general, everything was replaced. By the way, when disassembling the stove, they found a factory jamb - the radiator hose was tightened tightly with the stove fastening and how the coolant entered the radiator. It was just a mystery to me, it would have been a little more and the stove hose would have burst into two halves and it would have been fun. By the way, not turning on the stove motor when the car warms up will help nothing. It should take 2 hours while the heat comes from the stove motor from the radiator. Design features. Only the filter will help us.

By the way, there is one plus from all this. To remove the radiator from the stove, it is enough to remove all the glove compartments, unscrew one air duct and unscrew the stove radiator and take it out to the side like a cassette and that's it. And you do not need to disassemble the entire torpedo. It will take time, replacing the radiator in just one hour.

The white duct is supported by two self-cuts. Then remove the hoses and unscrew the very cuts of the radiator and take it out like a cassette.

The Gazelle heater, manufactured before 2003, does not function efficiently, the owners know them. And when I got my hands on it, quite a good radiator from the "classics" - I immediately got the idea to modify the Gazelle heater. On the plus side, the panel was removed for painting.

This tuning was carried out by one of the previous owners of the car, to prevent cold air from blowing into the cabin, due to the design features of the heater.

We extract the whole thing so as not to litter in the cabin

Here is the third radiator in the Combi ... We carry out cleaning, diagnostics and lubrication of the electric motor ... We pass through the joints of the heater in advance with silicone sealant ...

Simple carpentry work under the upper cover of the heater made of improvised material, for placing the radiator ...

We pass the foam around the perimeter ...

View from above. The tightness is now 100% ...

Left view. From the driver's side.ATTENTION! In my case, the connection hoses will look exactly from the driver's side! But you can turn to the other side, with a slight adjustment of the damper cable fastening.

Ready-to-install, assembled heater with two radiators for a Gazelle vehicle. Engine side view.

Actually, the problem appeared at the end of spring. The battery was discharged to zero, and immediately after that, the electronic speed controller of the stove motor refused to work. That is, the motor was constantly turned on at maximum speed. It could only be turned off by pulling out the fuse. The electronic regulator is located inside the stove; in order to change it, you must completely remove the torpedo. In the service, according to various sources, such repairs cost from 6 to 10 thousand rubles. In general, the desire to go to the service disappeared immediately, but the prospect of disassembling everything myself did not please. The piece itself is a penny 600 rubles. Rummaged through all the forums and everywhere wrote that it was necessary to disassemble. I read somewhere that the connector that goes to the stove motor can be reached from under the hood, through the air intake. And little by little the decision was ripe. Why disassemble everything if you can duplicate this chain. There was only one problem how to cool the regulator, otherwise it will quickly fail. The solution was found quite simple, to put a cooler from a computer.

Cut out the blank for the regulator body

Put a fan on the case

The finished block was placed under the glove compartment below. (photo through right end cap)

Connecting to the stove motor

Control wire connection

Everything is set in place and connected. Works exactly the same as the standard circuit. Another plus, the quality of our spare parts is not the best, and if after a regular repair the regulator closes with a new one after a while, then this expensive repair will have to be repeated. In my version, the repair will take about 20 minutes and the cost of spare parts is minimal. Speed controller 600 rubles, cooler 200 rubles. and little things 200-300 rubles.

Because of problems with the engine, the stove began to air and did not heat, because the heater radiator is higher than the expansion tank. After 2 days of traveling in an ice car, I decided not to risk my health and somehow solve the problem. On the advice of my father, I bought an additional electric pump on the market for 1000 rubles in order to drive out the airlock and bring the antifreeze into the heater.

Before installing, it is advisable to disassemble and coat with sealant so that it probably does not flow. I just tightened up the bolts as there was no sealant at first.

Opening the hood, I began to think about where to put it. As a result, I put it on the frame, from the side of the intake manifold - I got up like a native, even the holes in the frame coincided.

I connected the stove and the gas reducer to the input (it is parallel to the heater). I had to buy 40 cm of hose (40r), sealant (30r) and a power button with a block (120r), the wire and corrugation were at home. Next, I began to connect the wiring. By the way, there is a special connector for such a pump, which is located at the right headlight + appears when the stove is turned on. I took power from the fuse box from the stove (+ appears when the ignition is on). Further, on the button and under the hood to the pump, I also connected the dimensions to the button (+ took it from the next button). I connected everything, assembled it, it works.

the top button, while I took one, did not find the desired picture, then I will replace it, and I will put this one as intended

I am very pleased with the result, I advise everyone, I drove the airlock immediately, when the pump was turned on, the stove fried specifically, hot air already at 40 degrees, i.e. the interior can be warmed up earlier than the engine, it also helps to reset the temperature when the engine overheats.
Of the minuses, the temperature can drop by 20 degrees when turned on (but then rises back) and the engine warms up to a cold one longer if you turn it on immediately. I use it periodically as needed, the rest of the time the standard system is enough.

The other day the motor of the Gazelle 2.8 Cummins stove screeched. I changed on the old gazelle in about 20 minutes. Here, I thought, too, but it wasn’t there.Everything is serious here. I drove for a week, pulled it out until the weekend, and they came.

In principle, there is nothing difficult in replacing the stove motor, but there are places where you have to sweat - these are 2 bolts twisted from the inside, and there is practically no access

access through the instrument panel

access through the lower glove compartment but even a hand does not climb there

I had to gouge out the air ducts

why can't you make bolts on this side

in the morning I drove in and bought a new 4300 r. and began to collect.

Once such a booze has gone, and everything has been disassembled, it is necessary to stick the Shumka.

I spent 5 hours on disassembly slowly. On assembly - 11 also slowly. I did not tighten those 2 cunning bolts and one here

even fingers do not climb there

By the way, while collecting, I lost the heater key.

The eyes are afraid and the hands are doing.

Those who drive gazelles with the prefix “business” experience untold “joy” from the new panel! But after the first

We drain the liquid from the engine cooling system (see. Replacing the coolant).

Use a screwdriver to loosen the tightening of the clamps and remove the hoses from the radiator pipes.

Using the "8" key, turn off the two self-tapping screws.

In the cabin, remove the dashboard shelf (see Replacing the dashboard shelf).

For convenience, we remove the case of the glove box (see Replacing the case of the glove box).

Using the key "10" in the opening that opens, unscrew the nut.

... and, prying the four latches around the perimeter of the air duct with a slotted screwdriver, remove it.

Using the "7" wrench, loosen the tightening of the bolt and disconnect the drive rod from the crane.

Using the "10" key, unscrew the two bolts securing the tap to the heater radiator.

... and remove the heater tap together with the inlet pipe and rubber gasket.

Using a 10 key, unscrew the two bolts and disconnect the inlet pipe with the second gasket from the tap.

Pay attention to the shape of the gasket, it must match the shape of the flange.

We remove and rearrange the bracket for attaching the drive rod to the new crane.

We install a new valve with new gaskets in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the joints of the hoses with the pipes of the heater radiator are carefully coated with sealant. We replace the standard (rolled-up) clamps with worm clamps.

We fill the cooling system with coolant. In this case, the heater tap must be in the open position (see Construction description).

When the heater tap is open and the damper is closed, do not turn on the fan in order to avoid damage to its electric motor.

Video (click to play).

A frequently occurring defect in the heater fan electric motor is a loud whistle during operation. You can temporarily eliminate the whistle by disassembling the electric motor and lubricating its bearings (see Repairing the heater electric motor), but it is better to replace the electric motor.

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