DIY wing repair

In detail: DIY wing repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Fenders of a car often suffer from an accident, and are also exposed to stones flying out from under the wheels, as they are located near the roadway. The main way to restore the body elements of the car is straightening followed by repainting. The next step is how to align a car wing with your own hands.

The straightening equipment includes, first of all, hammers. There are several types of such tools, differing in shape and purpose. Flat head hammers are used to straighten flat surfaces. Variants with a convex striker are used for processing convex surfaces. Notched tools are designed to work on elongated surfaces. Smooth models are used for anti-aliasing. The named types of straightening hammers are made from tool steel.

In addition to these tools, files with large notches are used for car straightening. Small surfaces are leveled with them. Hooks squeeze out the dents from the back. They are also made from tool steel. Anvils and supports are used to support the metal from the back during straightening work. They are composed of brass. Usually, all equipment is purchased in kits, the cost of which is determined by how many tools they include. You can buy them separately, but this is more difficult, since you need to know how many and what tools are required for straightening.

Do-it-yourself straightening of the car should be carried out in protective equipment, represented by overalls, glasses, gloves.

Video (click to play).

You need to work in a well-lit room. On the net you can find a video about the preparation of equipment and premises for straightening.

A distinction should be made between straightening and stretching. The second type of work is the initial stage of body repair. It is performed using hydraulic and screw jacks. Then the skews of the body are pulled out on the slipway. Finally, the car body is measured with a specialized ruler and the values obtained are compared with the factory parameters. They switch to straightening only by completely eliminating the distortions.

There are three types of straightening work, allocated on the basis of implementation technology.

This method is characterized by a high speed of performance of work and compares favorably with other options in that in this case the paintwork of the car is preserved. However, the main condition for the use of this straightening technology is its integrity. It should also be borne in mind that these works require expensive specialized equipment, although there are technologies for straightening dents without painting with improvised means.

This technology is much more widespread. It implies the elimination of defects remaining after stretching of the deformed material. When doing such work with your own hands, careful calculation and distribution of the impact on the metal is required in order to avoid the formation of flaps, which are understood as excess material formed as a result of excessive stretching. Therefore, when carrying out such work, smooth hammers are especially relevant.

This technology is used in cases where the stretching of the metal is so significant that it cannot be eliminated by other means. The essence of the work consists in shrinkage with the use of smooth hammers and support of fragments of the working surface heated by a gas burner with an area of about 1 cm². Seated in a spiral from the edges to the center. Due to the fact that such straightening leads to a violation of the metal structure, it is used only in extreme cases.
There are videos about each of these types of jobs and they can be easily found on the Internet.

First, the wing is removed from the vehicle. Then it is cleaned and the damage is examined. Based on how many defects there are and of what type, methods of restoration work are determined.

Straightening the car involves removing the stress of the deformed metal. At the same time, in the process of work, it is necessary to avoid the formation of new areas of compression and tension. Therefore, it is worthwhile to first decide on the straightening technology. It is chosen on the basis of what damage is present on the car parts, and how many there are.

Large dents are removed with their own hands with a straightening hammer, transferring light blows gradually from the edges to the middle of the defect. In this case, it is unacceptable to find a counter support, displaced from its center, on the same axis with the hammer. Competent execution of straightening with your own hands will allow you to restore the geometry of the car part and remove deformation stresses. However, this requires skill and experience.

Small indentations remaining after the restoration of the car body geometry are smoothed out by spiral straightening using the direct forging method, which involves the use of an aluminum hammer and counter support with flat working surfaces. In these works, the stress is concentrated at the points of interaction of these tools when straightening small depressions. Usually, when leveling a dent, several of these areas are removed. The voltage decreases as the distance between the impact points increases. In the case of their close location, it is worth using the thermal method of stress relief, since in this case, under mechanical stress, the surface may bend. The essence of the work consists in deposition in the middle by straightening a deformed area with a preheated welding torch or a carbon electrode in the center. At high voltages, the heated section of the car is cooled with water for the purpose of compaction, which allows a larger amount of material to be deposited.

To remove small car dents with your own hands, use an automatic pulling tool. Its glow plug is welded to the center in 0.3 seconds and the traction is activated by presetting the height. You need to measure how much the depth of the dent is, so as not to drag it into a bulge. The repaired car surface should be cooled. Finally, the electrode is disconnected and its location is leveled. Also, small dents in a car can be aligned with a magnet. The heat method is suitable for repairing dents up to 1 cm in diameter and up to 2 mm deep. This technology consists in shifting the heating source from the edges to the middle of the defect and cooling.

On the basis of any of the considered methods, straightening of both the front and rear wings can be carried out. However, how exactly to carry out the work is determined on the basis of how many and which defects are present on the damaged wing.

Despite the fact that the defect may be completely simple, in a car service you still have to spend a certain amount, which, depending on the class of car, can be rather big. However, if a motorist has a theoretical base and knows how to use some types of tools, he can do it himself to repair a car wing with his own hands.

Devices, tools and materials necessary for the repair to be of high quality

Hydraulic jack with pipe cut-off extensions. Although a rack and pinion is suitable, in extreme cases, such a jack is included in the repair kit of many Russian-made cars. The tube for the extension to this jack must be square so that it can be slid onto the rack.
Straightening hammer or rubber mallet.
Leveling paw, spring, wooden block.
Several types of sandpaper, ranging from No. 80 to No. 600.

Before work, it is necessary to remove the wheel from the side of the damaged fender.Place a piece of wood under the jack extension and use it to squeeze out the wing indentation from the inside. When the main serious dent has decreased, you can try to remove the small and smooth ones with your hands. Remains of dents and creases are removed with a hammer. If necessary, bend the edge of the arch with pliers. Serious creases are straightened with a metal hammer, which must be tapped directly into the crease.

Work must be carried out carefully, with minimal effort applied to the wing surface. Try not to overdo it, otherwise the metal will stretch, up to the formation of a through hole, after which you will have to use electric welding. Measure your efforts and, most importantly, learn to "feel" the metal. The technology of the final stage of straightening is the methodical elimination of large defects, gradually reducing them to smaller, minimal ones.

At the end of straightening, the entire surface that has been leveled should be sanded with sandpaper. First you need to use # 80, it is advisable to clean the wing surface down to metal.After processing with sandpaper, it becomes visible in which places to apply the putty and in what quantity. After the first layer has dried, sand it with 120 grade sandpaper, and use 220 for sanding the next layer. Carry out the final elimination of defects with No. 360 paper, and smooth out small scratches with No. 600 sandpaper.Apply a primer to the sanded filler, if possible in two layers. When the soil dries up, the surface is sanded for the last time with sandpaper No. 600, dust is removed and painted with a well-chosen high-quality auto enamel.If everything is done correctly, the product comes out no worse than a new one. And repairing a car wing with your own hands becomes not such a scary business.This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust.In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This is, in fact, quite an interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then it will be better for us to understand how to deal with it.The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.For many people, the car is an integral part of life. Therefore, it will be unpleasant for everyone if misfortune happens to their faithful "iron horse". But accidents and other damage can lie in wait at every step.Damage to the front or rear fenders is most common (and not necessarily from another vehicle). After their occurrence, you need to think about repairing a faithful friend.

Repair of the front fender of the car in workshops and service stations

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The most rational solution would be to contact a service center or a service station. Here they will be able to accurately establish the entire scope of problems, assess the damage and, finally, eliminate all damage. And it depends on their degree which of the types of restoration work will be applied.

The front fender of the vehicle is removable. Its repair begins with dismantling. Then from the surface (or just from the damaged part of it), remove the remnants of paint and varnish materials. Next, the desired area is degreased. After all this, the direct repair begins with the use of special devices and equipment.

Car service technicians pull out the front fender with special tools. Then a primer is applied to hide small defects and to achieve a high level of color of the part being repaired. After the primer has dried, it is necessary to apply an anti-corrosion coating and paint this part in a special spray booth.

It will take a lot of time and effort to pull out the rear fender of your car. This part of the car is not removable and should be replaced in extreme cases. "Indications" for this are large metal breaks or rather specific damage. In other cases, the rear wing is extended without removing. Special equipment is also used here. In rare cases, electric welding is used.
Only highly qualified specialists and trained craftsmen with professional equipment will be able to carry out repairs quickly and efficiently.

It can cost you a lot of money to fix even the slightest problems in a car service. Therefore, a motorist with some experience and knowledge of straightening, with some effort, can carry out the repair with his own hands.

When working on wing straightening, you will need:

hydraulic or rack and pinion jack;

jack extension cords (pipe sections of different shapes for each type of jack);

straightening hammer with support;

wooden bars.

After placing the jack under the base of the vehicle, the first step is to remove the wheel.Then, applying support from the front side of the wing, you need to lightly tap the hammer to align the dent from the inside of the wing. The main thing here is not to overdo it, since the metal can stretch, and with the slightest push on the unevenness, the wing can bend again.When starting to stretch the wing with your own hands, it should be remembered that straightening must start from the edges of the dent and move towards the center in a spiral. When the straightening is over, you can start filling and touching up with carefully selected paint. But it is not always necessary to tint a squashed wing. In case of minor damage, it is sometimes enough to hit the inside with a hammer with a rubberized tip several times from the inside. This will save you money on repairing your car.Remember, when working with tools during repairs, you must strictly adhere to safety rules!Forget about fines from cameras! An absolutely legal novelty - NANOFLENKA, which hides your numbers from IR cameras (which are located in all cities). Read more about this at the link.

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It often happens that light vehicles are involved in road accidents. Often these are minor and minor accidents, as a result of which the front fender is slightly dented or scratched. Naturally, you can go to the workshop, where they will conduct an inspection and establish the full scope of faults, as well as assess the damage and eliminate all damage received. However, it is quite possible to repair the wing on your own, if you own the theory and know how and can use some tools. Skills like these can help you save money on repairs.

Most motorists have the right skills to repair a car, as well as know what materials and tools are needed for this and how exactly they should be used. If you have no doubts about your theoretical knowledge, it may be worth putting it into practice. For example, let's take the most common case, namely damage to the front fenders. Also, do not forget about the possibility of different types of damage, because there are cases when even the best specialists refuse to take on the straightening and painting of the wing. Then it will be more rational to replace this part.

All you need to do your own straightening:

Jack. In choosing a jack, a hydraulic one will still be the best option, but if there is no such, then a standard rack and pinion will do;

Set of hydraulic jacks

Jack accessories, namely extension cords of different lengths. For a hydraulic jack, you will need pieces of a round and thick pipe, for a rack and pinion, pieces of a square pipe, stably fixed on a toothed rack. Pipes that have a square shape can be easily built from two corners welded together. The length of the extension cord should be between 40 and 45 centimeters;
A straightening, rubber hammer is required, as well as massive support;
The presence of sufficiently strong wooden bars, at least a couple of pieces, will not hurt;
And also several varieties of sandpaper from No. 80 to No. 600.

Only having prepared all this, you can begin to start leveling the formed dent.

Straightening tool kit

Before starting work, be sure to remove the front wheel from the side of the damaged fender. Place a secure stand directly under the jack socket. Then you need to select one appropriate block and place it under the wing itself, on the stiffener near the headlamp recess. Then place the second block on the front panel of the body, or rather, in the rear section of the wing. The next step is to slide the square tube extension onto the rack of the jack.The jack itself with an extension cord must be placed between the bars. After that, you need to start working with the jack, as in the usual situation of lifting the car, thereby expanding the wing from the inside and stretching the resulting fold. Thus, the existing "bubble" will noticeably decrease, and most likely completely disappear, leaving behind only a small dent in the lower part of the wing. Having completed these steps, the time will come for the straightening of the wing itself.

Let's start by applying the support to the front side, then you need to straighten the remaining dent by tapping the wing from the inside with a straightening hammer or rubber mallet, without trying to loosen the jack. There is a possibility that a small area will remain with a defect at the decorative embossing line on the wing. However, even in this situation, there is a way to solve the problem, it is necessary to wrap a wooden rail with a rag and place it directly under the line, after installing the rail, you need to be hammer on it. This will help remove the bloating.

The embossed line is present in almost every part of the car body, since it is not only a decorative element, but also a stiffening rib of the body. If a section with a stiffener is damaged during an accident, then first it is necessary to bring the rib line to the starting state, and only after that proceed to other sections.

Also, metal tends to have residual elasticity, which may well again lead to deformation with a sharp weakening, so do not rush to loosen the jack after completing the straightening. To avoid repeated deformation, at the end of the work, pull out the jack for at least one or two clicks. This will transfer the elasticity of the material, formed due to deformation, and only after that you can safely remove the jack.

Often there is a case when, for no apparent reason, a slight swelling outward forms on the wing of a car, visible to the naked eye. If you lightly press on such a formation with your hand, then the swelling will disappear with its characteristic click, similar to a clapperboard. However, any kind of push to the place of the irregularity of the wing, and the swelling will reappear, such cases can appear indefinitely. A similar defect appears due to the fact that the metal has stretched, and a kind of surplus has formed, which has nowhere to go but bend in this way.

Understanding the cause of the swelling, we can find a solution to the problem, that is, we need to remove the excess metal by stretching the wing. Again, you need to use a decorative line. It is also necessary to wrap the rail with a rag and rest it against the embossed line of the body. Hammer this rail from below with a hammer so that the wing is pulled under the line, a couple of blows will be enough to remove the swelling and give the wing its former elasticity and rigidity.

Performing any kind of straightening work, you will definitely have to use lifting devices. When using them, it is important to remember the safety rules:

Never leave the car raised on a jack; you need to use sufficiently strong supports to ensure the reliability of the structure. Having installed the jack on the hood of the body elements, you should make sure of its stability and the absence of sliding of the jack;
You only need to use a tool that is serviceable and suitable for work. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the hammer head. The very same handle of the hammer must be without different types of chips, burrs and cracks, and it must also be perfectly smooth;
When performing any work, you must wear gloves or ordinary cotton gloves to protect your hands.

In all previous versions of deformation, wing repair was practically not used, only cases were considered when it was possible to stretch the wing using a jack and slightly correct the metal at the base of the ribs. It is worth remembering that the blows sometimes do not come to the end part of the wing, but directly from the side, forming a clear dent.Such damage cannot be repaired using only pulling, you will need to use straightening. The essence of the work performed is to get rid of the resulting elongations and "excess" metal. It is necessary to disperse the surplus evenly into a large number of small bulges and the more there are, and also the smaller they are, the better the job will be done.It is worth knowing that for the correct elimination of such formations, straightening must start from the edge of the dent and continue to move along it, using the principle of a narrowing spiral, ending everything in the very center.First of all, you need to establish the place where the dent ends. In order to do this, it is necessary to carry out the formation of a straightening file crosswise, then using a hammer with a pointed beak and special supports, begin to knock the wing out. When the metal becomes taut, it is time to level the dent itself, in order to do this, we need a straightening "saw". You should not be afraid to pierce the metal, despite its thickness of 0.5 mm, it is quite difficult to completely remove such a layer.After completing all the work, you need to start leveling the surface itself, and for this it is worth using a putty. After processing with sandpaper, it will become visible exactly where and in what quantity it is necessary to apply the putty. The procedure is as follows:

The hardened first layer, sand with the use of abrasive paper no. 120;

Then use paper # 220 for sanding the next layer;

The final, for the removal of visible defects, will be # 360;

And the final one for leveling the surface from small scratches will be No. 600.

Now, minor defects and dents in the front fenders of your car can be corrected on your own, it is also worth knowing that repairing and painting the rear fender is exactly the same as the procedure applied to the front. This knowledge will help you troubleshoot such problems yourself.Hello dear community!As I promised yesterday, I'm going to post a post about how, in near-field conditions, to bring a rusty car to life in detail, or even in its entirety.What do many sexually mature citizens want, in their 18-20 years? That's right, the car. Does everyone have enough money for a new one? no. So I did not have enough, and back in 2005 I would have bought a Nissan Bluebird '89 car.The state was outwardly that is technically, in principle, normal, but some more experienced comrade said this - “if it was a horse, I would suggest to shoot it”.There are two options - either send it to the service for a complete reduction of the body to the form of God (at that time about 60-70 tr.) Or do it yourself :)Having collected a little money for the summer, took a vacation, received a couple more "combat" wounds, in the form of a punched hole in the rear left door and a slightly crumpled muzzle -I went to my uncle's dacha.Pre-purchased:1.paint - 3 liters (1 left)4.finishing putty 1 kg (and bought 1 more after)5. putty with fiberglass - 1 kg.6. solvent - 5 l. (for degreasing)7.Notice from 120 to 1200 grit.From an additional tool, a compressor and a semi-automatic welding were used (yes, yes, without these things there was nothing to do here, sadly)What else do we need? And it will take us a lot of time. A lot of patience. Accuracy!Let's start with the analysis of unnecessary and interfering elements such as optics, handles, moldings, bumpers.The wing is light from what is changeable.Next, you need to assess the scale of the disaster - if the car is popular, and there are a lot of spare parts for it - then, believe me, buying, even a little with jambs, but a rotten attachment, will be a good option.And if the car is rare, you can't find spare parts and they are all in the same condition as yours, then hang on here, good mood for you (C).Rust is like caries. It is not enough to “plaster” it from the outside. It must be withdrawn. Parts on both sides.If the rust is through - you need to put patches.An example of through rye on my current car -Understand how not to cover it up with putty, how not to spray it with a transducer - you-go-zet again.So, what is rusty but not to holes - we clean out completely.The better you clean it, the longer it will live.What is through is cut out. And weld in the patch. Well, or is there still such a life-like how to rivet a patch, but because welding was available - I did not use it.Having killed most of the rusty -I am VERY sorry for the quality of the photo, they were made on something like a Nokia with a 3.2 megapixel camera 10 years ago :)The thresholds were welded from the VAZ 2109.The missing pieces on the wings and doors are made of metal from broken cars.before puttingty, try, at least by eye, to "hammer", to clean the welding mounds and other protruding parts with a grinder. Trust me, save tons of time.Pre-matanuv putty with 120th sandpaper (while we still do not care, 120, 320, or 800). Let's get started.Surface - degrease and free from dust.Ideally - with such a yermont - be the first to use fiberglass ("hairy") putty.But don't overdo it! Better to apply 2-3 coats than to sharpen the excess oily first coat all day.It's not scary yet if you rub a little to the metal.It dries for 30-40 minutes in the air (summer, about 20 grazhus).Then we take 320th sandpaper and rub it. The surface should acquire a shape close to the factory one. But this is still not the finish line, small irregularities are still allowed here.Volosyanka, I remind you, is difficult to sharpen, but it's worth it! By the way, you need to sharpen not with sandpaper on the palm, but on a block - otherwise you will make holes.Next, satisfied with the intermediate result, we putty with finishing putty. She, having dried the same half an hour (maybe a little more - it's easy to check - scratch it with your fingernail - it should not roll, should be scratched) perfectly grinds with the same 320 sandpaper on a bar. By the way! do not forget to degrease the surface before each layer (for this there was 5 liters of solvent)As a result, the boiled and crumpled part takes on something like this -It took me a day and a half to find this door. The same amount - on the trunk lid.On the fenders, hood, and so on, it took about a week in total.Let me remind you again! Do well! None of your flaws by painting and even tembolee varnish will NOT be corrected! And under varnish, on the contrary, it will be even more noticeable.So, sir. Having putty the whole car, our next step will be the primer.For this we need a compressor - not necessarily an expensive one. not necessarily new and spray gun - also not necessarily expensive and new.It is necessary to prime it, having previously covered everything non-removable with a newspaper, covering material, or something else.In principle, work can be carried out even on the street, but so that there is a minimum of dust.You should glue it carefully, you do it for yourself!And it doesn't matter what - with covering material from the store for denyuzhku, or with a newspaper from the mailbox for free.It is desirable to apply the primer in one layer. One, not a bold layer, but at the same time covering everything in one color.Before priming - do not forget to degrease all surfaces!Further - we leave the car at least for a day (if it is drying on the street, we do not have a spray booth? :)Did you think that's pretty much everything? NO! Another great crap is waiting for us - the developing layer. You can, of course, just wipe the car with 800 sandpaper and paint it like that. But is that why we spent almost two weeks with putty ?! Not!Developing layer is easy :) We take any paint in a spray can, which contrasts with the primer. In my case, it was black.And thinly, degreasing the surface, apply. We do not need to cover the ground, the developing layer is given only to identify flaws.We let it dry a little, take the 800th sandpaper, a block, and with some water - we begin to slowly sharpen the soil. If there are no flaws, the development is worn off. Where there is a chipping, hollow, etc. - development will remain, this is its essence.For example - in the photo you can see where the development is overwritten and where there is no development -Where they rubbed to the putty, and even more so to the metal, you still need to work a little :)Squeeze the surface, putty. Where the development is left is just a shap.Next - to prime the repeated places.Rub again where primed, a day after priming!And now, we come to what they were waiting for - painting!We are preparing an impromptu "camera" from rails and film from a greenhouse :)We drive the car there. We pour water over the floor, no matter what you have, so that dust does not rise! Ideally, blow off the machine itself first.The less dust, the more the work will delight your eyes.It is better to start painting in the morning. Business is not quick, but it requires maximum accuracy and care.Body paint according to the instructions.The photo shows the first layer. Don't make it fat! However. as well as subsequent ones. Otherwise, it will flow. After all, we need quality, not the result of painting the fence by Moscow housing offices.Having given a couple of layers of paint, between them - about 20 minutes (but if the car is painted entirely, then there is no need to wait between the layers - the second layer can be started from where the first one started). We cover the car with obscenities, oh, that is. varnish.Varnish is a great "lens" - it will show ALL your flaws. Everything that you have been doing for so long, for which you have spent so much effort, can go down the drain. Therefore, I will say once again - it is necessary to putty so that it is even!It's already under varnish. After half a day, I drove the car out into the street.By the way, I almost forgot - what was removed (bumpers, radiator grille, handles) was painted side by side, the process with bumpers is a little different, if it's interesting - you tell me, I'll try to describe the whole process, it's a completely different story - plastic.Here the car is already standing in the evening, dries, waiting for assembly -Don't start assembling right away. Let the machine sit for a couple of days. Otherwise, one awkward movement - and a fresh scratch on the fresh varnish, what will you do?Hidden cavities, especially under welding, are MANDATORY. to process.There are a great many compositions for processing, for example, making an arch on a current car, treated with glass sealant in welding places -Hidden cavities - every year in the spring I fill in a rast-stop (you can move it) in a balloon.Here's how it happened.I saw the car a year after the repair - new saffron milk caps did not come out.Further, I don’t know. How and what happened with the new owner.even taking into account the purchase of a used compressor and spray gun, the purchase of materials and other things, you can save a lot of money. After all, now a similar undertaking is in the service, with welding, full painting, etc. I suppose it will cost about 100 tr. With your own hands, you can keep within 30.Thanks to everyone who has read it. I hope I wasted my time, and what I have written will help someone in the repair.All cars are listed, well, good mood.P.S. if the topic is interesting - I can tell you more about other bodywork and not very repairs.Saw of course :) why not?The author tried, he covered up the number, and on the 5th photo below it lies on the panel under the forehead)"Selling Nissan Bluebird '89, not bit, not beautiful" 😀Krasava! I have questions, how did you process the bottom? thresholds?There are also answers to your questions :)The rapids were flooded with working off (yes, yes, waste oil) and then Movil.The bottom was surprisingly intact, so I didn't touch it.In the next post I think to tell you more about the "bottom" of the car.Why will I be frank about cutting the post out of my hand, because I have not preserved a photo of such a repair. For this reason, I will unsubscribe you in the comments.We take as a basis the situation when a person wants to make a complete restoration of the appearance and structure of the car body.Consider the procedure for replacing the rear wing of the body.The rear wing and C-pillar form a single panel. They are attached around the perimeter by spot welding, and the wing can also be glued to the arch with the rear mudguard.Rear fender replacement may require removal of:

rear window

side glass (if available)

filler pipes

wires from the back side (from the radio antenna)

trunk lid

stop signal

rear bumper

To dismantle the rear wing, it is necessary to drill out the contact welding points at the points of its attachment to the flanges, as well as to cut the panel in the doorway and on the C-pillar.Replacing the rear fender requires resistance welding and / or semi-automatic welding (MIG / MAG).When welding cut-off parts, the following types of welding joints can be used:

butt seam

lined butt seam

overlap seam

A butt joint is preferable because it is easier to protect against corrosion on the reverse side, and it is more aesthetically pleasing and requires less filler to mask the joint than overlapping.It is advisable to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for determining where to cut and weld.Before dismantling and welding the rear wing, cover the upholstery with non-combustible material and glass from sparks with special thick paper.To remove the rear wing:

Make sure all adjacent body panels are installed correctly with even clearances. When trying on a new wing, adjacent panels will help to keep it in place.

Determine the location of the resistance welding spots and, if necessary, clean any coating over the spots.

Determine the location of the slice.

When cutting on the back pillar, cut it a little further. The new panel should overlap the rest of the body by 25 mm at the cut. This is necessary for marking and for a more accurate cut. We will consider the procedure for marking and slicing below. If the upper connection of the rear wing is on the roof flange, then a spot weld must be drilled out without damaging the adjacent panels. For this, the adjacent edges of adjacent panels can be sealed with masking tape.

Drill out all butt weld points along the flanges. When drilling, depending on the tool used, it is convenient to first make a recess in the center of the weld point with a core, so that the drill does not move. Be careful not to drill through the bottom panel.

In the case of adhesive joints (along the arch), heating with a hairdryer may be required. You can also use an infrared lamp for this purpose.

Remove the rear fender.

To make the connection of the new rear wing and the remnants of the old one on the body even, two marking methods are used. Image - DIY wing repair

Most Typical Cut Points When Replacing Rear Fenders

Method with marking and cutting the panels to be joined separately:

Measure and cut to size a portion of the rear fender on the body and on the new fender. The rest of the metal on the C-pillar needs to be slightly longer and overlap the edge of the new rear fender.
Try on the new wing in place and secure it with the special clips. If everything is measured and cut correctly, then the rest of the panel on the body will overlap the line of joining with the new wing.
Draw a line on the remnants of the old panel around the edge of the new wing.
Remove the wing and cut it.
Thus, the two parts must match. If necessary, you can slightly adjust one of the abutting parts by grinding with a grinder.

Method of simultaneous cutting of two panels on the body:

Take measurements and cut off the old panel and the new one, just as with the first method, the remainder of the panel on the body should overlap the edge of the new panel.
Try on a new wing and attach it with the special clips.
Slice in the center of the area where one panel overlaps the other.Thus, both panels, the remainder of the old and the new, will be simultaneously cut off. The result is a very precise joint between the two parts with a gap equal to the thickness of the disc that was cut. It is better to cut with a thin disc so that the gap is minimal.

Roof-flush rear fenders are factory-bonded with brass or siliceous bronze. It is best to strip the C-pillar to locate this seam. You can, of course, detach the rear wing along this seam and for this there is a certain procedure, but usually no one does this, since it requires additional efforts. Better to cut below the factory seam.

Often the rear panel is partially replaced. This avoids additional disassembly, for example, dismantling the rear window. It must be remembered that too long a joining seam is not desirable. It is better to choose a narrower place for the cut. It must be taken into account that the weld bead is invisible on the back of the rear wing.

It is necessary to set the correct settings of the welding machine so that sufficient penetration of the seam is obtained and, at the same time, the metal of the panels is not burned through. For thin sheet metal, it is better to use a smaller diameter filler wire.

The gap between the panels to be joined must be even and minimal.

As mentioned earlier, a small gap is required between the parts to be welded. It is needed for good penetration of molten metal during welding and to reduce warpage, which also weakens the strength of the weld. Since the metal expands when heated, there must be room for it to move. A gap of 1–2 mm is enough (usually it is equal to the thickness of the welded metal). Too large a gap will make it difficult to weld.

When welding the back panel, form a sealed seam by breaking it into several segments. Boil with stitches or dots. Start in the middle, so that both parts stand in one plane, then weld both edges alternately, then weld at intervals the remaining joints of the two parts to be welded. The main rule is to let the metal cool. This will help prevent overheating and deformation of the sheet metal. As a result, you should get a tight seam, without gaps.

Video (click to play).

After welding, the seam is smoothed out so that the surface is flat. Care must be taken not to remove too much metal when sanding the joint, as this will weaken the strength of the joint.