In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a galvanized iron roof from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I had to urgently repair the roof at the dacha this summer in view of its constant leakage in the rain. It had leaked on the veranda before, but now, after heavy rains, there was just some kind of flood. The leak became very strong and in several places at once, urgent repair was required.
The roof was made 20 years ago for sure, lined with sheets of galvanized iron, and here at the joints of these sheets, most likely, discrepancies appeared, which over time became more and more. In the past years, measures were also taken to close up the joints, they tried to do it with cement mortar, after which they painted it, but all these, as it turned out, were temporary measures and they did not lead to a long-term positive result. The cement cracked over time, fell off in some places, and it does not stick to galvanized steel. As a result, the problem continued to exist, flow, if it disappeared for a short time immediately after sealing the joints with cement mortar, then drops began again on the veranda, and over time it increased and turned into a flood.
I consulted with the men in the neighborhood, but all offer only the option of completely covering the part of the roof where the veranda is attached. This is either to remove the galvanized coating entirely, or to somehow lay a new roof on top of the existing one. Only such an option is not at all affordable for me either in terms of buying slate or other material for the roof of the roof, or in terms of performing such work. I can’t cope with it myself, but hiring someone is even greater costs to those that will have to be incurred when purchasing the necessary materials. And this is a long process. There is no construction store nearby, you have to go somewhere, look for and order everything you need, then the problem with bringing, and then also finding the craftsmen. Therefore, I thought, I thought, and decided to do everything myself with the possible minimum cost, both in terms of acquiring the necessary materials for repairs, and in terms of personal labor costs.
Video (click to play).
So, in order to close up the existing joints as reliably as possible, I purchased such materials - rubber-bitumen mastic, bituminous varnish and fiberglass, which for some reason is called self-adhesive serpyanka, although this is fiberglass, but the sellers do not know about it.
Pre-cleaned all the joints of the iron at the seams from contamination, and the one where the sheet is bent onto the sheet, and where the joint goes into the joint of the sheets. After that, she began to apply bitumen-rubber mastic to the joints of the bent iron. To do this, it is best to use two spatulas, one with a small width of no more than 4-5 cm, the other wider so that the remnants of the collected mastic drip onto it. You will have to work very carefully so that the mastic does not flow and does not make trickles on the roof in the wrong place, yet it is extremely viscous and thick. While picking it up from the jar with a small spatula, the other has to be substituted from below until you bring it to the joint that needs to be repaired. We apply mastic like an ordinary cement mortar, when we close up the cracks, everything is elementary. But you need to take a little, tk. after a certain time, there are still slight, but leaks towards the roof slope. Therefore, it is better to work not in hot sunny weather, but in cloudy weather. If the mastic has leaked, then it is necessary to remove it from the surface in time.
But the seams where the galvanized sheets go joint to joint, i.e. the surface is almost flat, it turns out quickly and much easier.I just smeared the seam of such a joint with bitumen varnish, I did not even use a brush for this, but an ordinary toothbrush, which turned out to be very convenient to work with. The varnish dries almost immediately. During the drying time of the varnish, you have time to cut off a ribbon of fiberglass (serpyanka) of the required length. Then I put it on this joint, where the varnish has already dried, the adhesive base of the tape allows it to lie well on the surface, and walked over it again with the same varnish, maybe even several times, so that it gets into the most insignificant cracks. This procedure is more pleasant in terms of execution and everything turns out pretty quickly. After a while, the seams can be varnished again, i.e. three times, four times varnished these joints.
Bituminous mastic during this time also has time to dry out and you can also walk on it with bituminous varnish for reliability.
In this way, in a fairly simple way and quite affordable very inexpensive means, it turned out to repair the roof from galvanized iron sheets. I didn't have to completely close the roof and spend huge amounts of money and a lot of time on it. I managed it in two days by myself, even without anyone's help.
The next day it started raining very hard, as they say, out of a bucket. I was afraid that my work would not stand up and again flood the whole veranda, you never know, there were still fears. I have already prepared cups, basins, rags on the floor. It rained all night, and there was no leak anywhere. The strongest rain experienced my work.
I didn't stop there and decided that the black stripes from bitumen and varnish somehow didn't look very nice on a galvanized roof, which itself is light gray. Although from below these black stripes on the roof of the veranda are naturally not at all visible, it is still necessary to refine it. Moreover, the galvanized sheets themselves in some places already have places where rust stains are clearly visible. Since I started to do it, everything that can be repaired must be completely.
These rust spots need to be treated.
I bought a special anti-corrosion primer in gray, it just turned out that it perfectly matches the color of the galvanized roof, i.e. it is possible to paint the roof itself from above, where there is rust, and to cover the seams that have been sealed with mastic with this primer, which will even more reliably fix the processing of the seams.
The primer is almost the same paint, so it is very quick and easy to work with a regular brush. I painted all the seams where bituminous mastic and bituminous varnish were applied, and then I walked over the galvanized sheets and not only where there were rusty spots, but painted the entire roof.
On the drain itself, processing is also necessary. It was like this:
Now my roof looks like new and doesn't leak at all. By the end of the summer I will probably paint it again, but with a special paint, I think I will take "Cycrol", if I find it here, I will also pick it up by its color gray, for galvanized.
So before starting major repairs on the advice of "experts", it is quite possible to do with less costs and money and time. Of course, advising to do everything again is easier than figuring out how to carry out repair work with a minimum of costs.
Today there are a large number of various building materials for roofing, but, of course, metal has been the most common for many years. This fact is easily explained by the durability, reliability, strength of metal roofing, along with their attractive appearance. The article will tell in detail about the device of a galvanized steel roof, as well as about the methods of its repair and the approximate cost.
Metal roofs are made, as a rule, of steel, copper and aluminum. But due to the high cost of the latter two, the undisputed leader can be called a roofing made of galvanized steel, which can be in the form of corrugated board, sheet or roll material.
In addition to covering the roofs themselves, roofing steel is used for the installation of eaves, gutters, drainage systems, gutters and other elements.
In addition to the fact that this material has a relatively low cost, it is lightweight, due to which it is very convenient to use it for constructing a roof, even with a complex geometric shape. By the way, the fact that roofing steel should have such a low weight is noted by GOST, which also requires covering the material on both sides with a layer of zinc. Zinc in this case serves to protect the steel from corrosion, because uncoated steel itself has a short service life.
For this reason, non-galvanized metal is practically not used today as a roofing material.
To obtain a material that meets all the requirements of GOST (GOST 8075-56), cold-rolled steel coil is cleaned, then annealed and placed in a zinc melt, resulting in a hot-dip galvanized cold-rolled roofing metal.
As a rule, roofing sheets are produced with a width of 50-75 cm, a length of 2 m, and a thickness of 0.45-0.5 mm.
As for the corrugated board, it is a profiled sheet, also made of galvanized steel. It is used not only for roofing work, but also as a finishing material (for wall cladding) or in the construction of fences. Its sheets have a maximum length of 12 m and a thickness of 0.4-1.2 mm. The main quality criterion is compliance with the requirements of GOST 24045-94. Its main advantage is that it has a wide range of colors.
Roofing steel is carbon and alloy steel. Carbonaceous is obtained by fusing iron and carbon. Alloyed have in their composition one or even several special elements that provide steel with improved physical and mechanical properties. Moreover, depending on the additives included in the composition, they are low-alloyed, medium-alloyed and high-alloyed.
Most often, carbon steel and low-alloy steel (which contains no more than 2.5% of special alloying substances) is used for the roof, and medium-alloy and high-alloy steel are used for this quite rarely, since they are intended for structures that require increased corrosion resistance.
Depending on the purpose of the roofing steel (in what conditions the roof will be located), it is customary to divide it into:
Ordinary;
High quality;
High quality;
Especially high quality.
The difference between them lies in the content of harmful impurities such as phosphorus, sulfur, non-metallic particles, the presence of which impairs the characteristics of the material.
In addition, roofing steel, depending on the thickness of the sheet, differs in:
Thin-leaved (thickness up to 0.39 mm);
Thick-leaf (thickness is more than 0.40 mm).
But it is worth noting that according to the requirements of GOST, it should not be thinner than 0.45 mm, which is why thick sheet steel is used much more often.
rafter leg;
filly under the overhang;
mauerlat under the rafters;
stopper for Mauerlat;
wire twisting under the Mauerlat;
crutch for twisting;
sheathing of rafters;
steel sheet roofing.
Galvanized steel does not have a detrimental effect on human health and the environment. In addition, due to the high reflective properties of zinc, the material prevents the roof from overheating in summer sunny weather. Also, due to zinc, the service life of the roof is 20-30 years or more.
Alloy steel includes plastisol polymer, which makes the coating more plastic and with increased mechanical strength.
Roofing galvanized steel has its drawbacks, one of which is low sound insulation - inside the house you can hear the noise of rain and hail.
When the zinc coating is not of a very high quality, matte gray stains may appear on the roof surface, which indicate the beginning of metal corrosion, and this is a sign that the roof may need repairs.
If it is necessary to get rid of minor traces of corrosion, then the appeared rust spots should be removed with a soft steel brush. After that, the surface is cleaned of dust, dirt, old paint, washed, degreased, dried and painted over with oil paint. It should be borne in mind that not any coloring composition is suitable for this purpose, for example, alkyd paint, when interacting with zinc, will lose its adhesion properties due to an oxidation reaction, and the service life of such a coating will be reduced to one year, or even less. It is required to use a special paint with high elasticity and good adhesion. Acrylic primer-enamel, which has a long service life, is best suited for this. The only thing is that the cost of such paint is higher than the cost of conventional oil paints.
But in any case, such a measure will cost less than replacing the roof, and the painted roof looks more elegant than just a galvanized one. Paint is applied with a roller, brush or spray gun.
If it is necessary to eliminate the cracks that have appeared between the sheets, then they can be soldered. First, the joints are cleaned of rust with sandpaper, and then the sheets to be joined are tightly fitted to each other. The next step is zinc chloride surface treatment. To solder the surfaces, you will need a soldering iron, which is pre-rubbed with ammonia and heated. After that, solder is applied to the ends of the sheets. When everything cools down, the excess solder is removed.
In this case, zinc chloride should not be prepared on your own, since improper mixing of the components can lead to an explosion. Such work should be left to professionals who will do everything in accordance with GOST.
But soldering on the roof is a very difficult procedure, so today it is increasingly being replaced by gluing with various modern sealants and adhesives. Automotive epoxy putties and putties can be used. There are also sealants in tubes designed specifically for roof repairs. It is convenient in this case that when buying such a sealant, the hardware store must tell in detail about the method of its use.
To repair individual leaky sheets, you can use patches, which are used as burlap, or other dense fabric.
The burlap is cut into squares or rectangles of the desired size, and then put in thickly diluted paint for 1-2 hours so that the material is soaked. Then, the prepared patch is placed on the damaged area and carefully smoothed. Pay special attention to the edges. When the patch dries well, paint the entire roof surface, including the patches, if possible. For the best effect, paint should be done in 2-3 thin layers.
Also, to repair individual places, you can use sheets that are slightly larger in size than the area of the worn out area, so to speak, with an allowance. This allowance is needed for the connection. The damaged area must be opened and a patch sheet must be laid on it. To connect the patch to the old sheet, standing and lying falsettes are used; on especially gentle slopes, it is best to connect by soldering the seams.
Before installing the patch, it must be wetted, and after installation, painted over with a weather-resistant paint composition. Also, with this colorful composition, you need to paint over the places of all joints in order to provide protection against corrosion.
Coiled galvanized steel is also used as patches. In this case, after the roof surface has been cleaned of rust and debris, the roll material is laid along and across the roof folds. Such patches are fixed, as a rule, by applying hot bitumen.Metal patches can be attached with the same sealants and adhesives.
It is rational to carry out such types of repairs if the damage occupies less than 40% of the area, otherwise it will be more expedient to change the entire coating. Because with such extensive damage, patching will require much more labor and time than installing a new galvanized steel roof.
Overhaul will include the following mandatory operations:
complete removal of the old coating;
complete replacement or repair of supporting structures;
antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation of load-bearing structures;
vapor barrier device;
installation of a new roof;
its color;
gutter device;
installation of fences around the entire perimeter of the roof.
Installation of a new roof made of galvanized steel can be done in two ways - folded (sheet and roll) and with the help of corrugated board. The seam method consists in the traditional technology, when individual sheets are connected with a butt seam, which is called a seam. It can be recumbent (goes along the length of the slope), and standing (goes along the height of the slope).
If desired, this seam can be doubled to increase the strength of the joint. In this case, the steel sheets are not attached to the lathing with nails, but with the help of clamps (strips of roofing steel), and one end of the clamp should be nailed to the lathing, and the other - bent over the fold.
In order not to have to make repairs again, during installation, mechanical damage to steel sheets should be avoided. To do this, it is better to use special roofing screws during work, which have an elastic gasket made of silicone under the head.
The seam roll technology is more modern. It consists in the device of the roof, not from sheets, but from rolled material. This method involves significantly fewer transverse seams, and in some cases they are completely absent. This technology is the most suitable for the Russian climate.
During major repairs, you should not neglect the quality of the lathing, since the durability of the seam roof largely depends on its condition, because if the sheets sag, this will weaken the density of joints, as a result, leaks and destruction of the coating.
For the installation of corrugated board, there is a need for additional elements (skates, valleys, etc.), since during the device a small defect of this material may appear, and additional elements will help to hide it. Most often, the installation of this type of galvanized steel roof is carried out by professionals.
To postpone the need for repairs, it is important not only to choose high-quality material and install it with high quality, but also to operate it correctly, observing a number of maintenance requirements.
Firstly, immediately after installation, the galvanized roofing steel should be painted, this will extend its service life. To prolong its life, you can also coat it with an anti-corrosion primer to protect it from natural deterioration.
In addition, it is required to periodically remove accumulated dust and dirt from the roof surface. This is best done with a soft broom.
Approximately 10 years after the installation of a new roof, its surface must be completely painted again, and subsequently this operation will have to be repeated after 2-3 years.
Obviously, minor defects are easier to fix than large ones. Therefore, the roof should be periodically carefully examined in order to identify damage and eliminate them, so that they do not lead to extensive defects.
To calculate the final cost of the finished roof, you first need to calculate the total roof area, the length of the ridge, the total length of the valleys, gables and cornices.
The resulting dimensions are multiplied by the price of the roofing material with delivery.You should also take into account the cost of related materials, such as vapor barrier film, fasteners, insulation, lumber, etc. If the work will not be carried out independently, then an additional amount is added to pay for installation work.
Shown below is the approximate cost of materials and work on galvanized steel roofing.
Galvanized roofing is a high-quality material that is characterized by increased strength and reliability, and therefore, a long service life. But despite this, and she needs proper care and timely elimination of certain damages. Otherwise, under the influence of an external aggressive environment, corrosion will begin to progress and ultimately lead to the destruction of the roof.
Roofing sheet as it was and remains today one of the most demanded materials. True, galvanized steel has long since replaced the rolled rough sheet. As practice has shown, thanks to the zinc coating, iron is effectively protected for about 25-30 years. However, mechanical damage to the coating or poor-quality galvanizing can cause corrosion. Dull stains on the surface of a metal roof are harbingers of rust, which means that in the near future, roof leaks should be expected. Accordingly, the question will arise, what kind of repair of the tin roof is to be done.
No one can answer this question without a preliminary assessment of the extent of the damage. Thus, the repair of galvanized steel begins with its examination.
For minor traces of rust, remove it first with a soft steel brush. Then the surface is cleaned of dirt, old paint, dust is washed, degreased. The roof must be completely dry, then it is painted over. Immediately, we note that painting a galvanized roof is not very easy as it might seem. The surface of galvanized iron is chemically passive, that is, the paint used must have increased adhesion and elasticity. Paints such as oil paints or alkyd paints oxidize the metal, causing it to lose its adhesion properties.
When using this paint, the roof will have to be repainted every season.
The paint is applied with a roller, brush or spray gun.
