In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the roof of a metal garage from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The construction of a metal garage, in comparison with a brick structure, has more advantages. The main one is the simplicity and speed of manufacturing. The article invites you to get acquainted with how the repair of metal garages is carried out.
The popularity of metal garages is explained by several factors, these include:
- Price, which is often less than the cost of erecting a capital brick structure.
- Short construction period... It takes just a few days from the beginning of the order to the final result.
- Simple and fast assembly of the structure on site.
- A metal garage is easy enough to make collapsible.
- Do it yourself, which requires certain skills in welding, using an angle grinder, drill and spray gun.
- Order the manufacture of a metal garage at a specialized company.
Before starting construction, the future owner must choose the material for the construction of the structure.
A metal garage can be:
- Solid... In this case, all parts are connected by welding and not disassembled. Such a structure is difficult to transport due to the oversized dimensions and the likelihood of damage to the welded seams.
- Prefabricated (see Metal prefab garage and installation rules)... The structure consists of a set of elements that are bolted together. The garage can be easily disassembled and moved to a place convenient for the car owner.
A garage made of metal structures, like any structure, requires repair over time. Particular attention should be paid to the repair of its roof.
Video (click to play). |
Tip: If you find any problems on the roof, they should be repaired as soon as possible. The safety of the car and the items stored in the garage depends on this. Repair should be started at a constant positive temperature.
Leaks in a previously dry roof may indicate breakage of the roofing metal sheets. In this case, the device of a folded roof made of galvanized sheet will make it possible to get rid of major repairs for almost 50 years, and only make cosmetic updates.
A budget option for roof repairs is to paint the roof with "rubber" paint, which significantly reduces the impact of the environment. A layer of acrylic paint will prevent condensation from collecting on the ceiling.
Additionally, if defects are found on a metal roof, you can:
- Fill small cracks or holes using tow, previously impregnated with hot bitumen.
- Cover the treated surfaces with bituminous mastic.
- Fill large holes with roofing felt or burlap patches. Before this, the roof surface should be prepared as follows:
- clean from dirt;
- smear with mastic.
- If the defects are large, then it will not work to patch them in a simple way; you will need to put a piece of roofing iron on the roof and make a patch, which will prevent the latter from sagging.
Roll roofing materials are often used to repair the roof of any garage.
When using roofing material, as shown in the photo, the structure will be multi-layer, representing a roof, the top layer of which consists of:
- Refractory bitumen.
- Special dressing, which can be:
- dusty;
- fine-grained;
- coarse-grained;
- scaly.
The bottom layer of the roof is made of uncovered material.
Roll roofing materials are:
- Baseless.They are produced by rolling a mixture, which includes an organic binder, filler and various additives.
- Basic. The basis of such materials is treated with bitumen, tar or mixtures of them.
The properties of roll roofing materials are:
- Waterproof.
- High heat resistance rates.
- Good tensile strength.
- Great flexibility.
The roof consists of roll materials:
- Covering material.
- Pergamina.
- Lining roofing material.
- All layers are glued to the bituminous mastic.
The service life of a roofing carpet can be increased by using:
- Fiberglass. It is an inexpensive, dense and durable material that does not give in to decay.
- Fiberglass is a denser and more expensive material.
A video will show in more detail about the installation of roll materials on a metal roof.
The most common nuisance for a metal garage is associated with the harmful effects of moisture on unpainted places.
In case of blind damage, it is necessary:
- Clean the surface.
- Prime.
- Paint over.
It is better to replace a sheet that has corroded, but to save money and if you have a welding machine, you can try this technique:
- Thoroughly remove any traces of corrosion from the outside.
- Treat all places with a special rust remover.
- Fill the inner surface of the damaged sheet with the same preparation, which will allow painting the rusty surfaces.
To prevent the destruction of the outer metal cladding, you can:
- Filling the space between indoor decoration and iron.
- Extruded sheet or liquid expanded polystyrene. This will provide additional internal protection of metal profiles and sheet material from corrosion and improve insulation inside the garage.
Tip: When applying a layer of polystyrene foam with a thickness of ten centimeters, its soundproofing indicator is comparable to a two-row brick wall 40 centimeters thick.
The formation of condensation droplets (see Condensation in a garage, what to do?) On a well-sealed metal garage primarily indicates poor air exchange. The optimal ratio of the extracted and supplied air should be 1: 6. Standard ventilation holes do not provide a stable supply of fresh air.
Tip: In this case, when carrying out repairs, the existing ventilation system should be improved.
- Plastic two-meter pipe with a diameter of more than one hundred and ten millimeters.
- Fasteners to it.
- Deflector.
- Scissors for cutting metal.
- Electric drill.
- Sealant or bituminous mastic.
Work instructions:
- A pipe is inserted into the hole in the roof or at the top of the wall, on which the deflector is fixed.
- The pipe is rigidly fixed.
- The technological hole is closed with layers of mastic and roofing material.
- In this case, you should withstand so that:
- the deflector was located at least one meter above the roof level;
- the branching of the inner pipe, if any, must be at least thirty centimeters from the ceiling.
A metal garage is a lightweight construction that requires a purely symbolic foundation arrangement according to one of the options:
- Around its perimeter, a deepening of about 25 centimeters is made, of the same width.
- A concrete slab with a reinforcing mesh is poured under the entire garage. Such a device will simultaneously be the foundation and the rough covering for the garage floor.
- Factory-made floor slabs are laid directly on the ground.
But in any case, it is necessary to comply with the following conditions:
- The top of the base or its slab should be about 20 centimeters higher than the ground level, which will prevent water from flowing into the garage when it rains or melts snow.
- The base surface must be horizontal.
- In the corners of the foundation or slab, small-sized pieces of reinforcement are concreted, the garage frame is welded to them, which will prevent the garage from unexpected lifting during theft.
Tip: When making a foundation, it should be poured all at once to create a single monolith of the structure.
The subsequent repair depends on the type of foundation. If there are potholes or cracks in the base, it is better to make a new screed over the entire surface.
What kind of metal garage structure is better, how to properly repair the structure, the video will show in detail.
For a man, a garage is practically a home. It is also a "hobby club" and a place where the opportunity to show skill is accompanied by the work of engineering. The owner is solely responsible for rearranging and cleaning the garage. He often repairs himself, because it is undesirable to trust strangers to restore all categories of order in your favorite possessions.
In addition, the process of restoring the technical condition of an adored property sometimes brings real pleasure and increases self-esteem. An independent repair of the roof of a garage roof is quite accessible to a home craftsman, if he is armed with information on how to perform it.
The roof of buildings of any type, size and purpose tends to wear out, to the great regret of the owners. Heavy gusts of wind, hail, torrential rains, birds, abandoned stones and suddenly fallen trees are regularly tested for its strength. Similar factors with equal constancy attack the roofs of garages, which sometimes do not cause as much concern to owners as a leaking ceiling in an apartment. Because of absolutely unjustified frivolity, the beloved "iron horse" or "swallow", slowly rusting from an excess of moisture, suffers not like a child.
Leaks are a clear indicator of a violation of the integrity of the roof or flaws in the construction of the roofing pie. However, you should not wait for the appearance of smudges on the walls and ceiling. In order not to face serious facts that require expensive repairs, it is necessary to carry out preventive inspections of the upper garage ceiling from the outside at regular intervals 4 times a year and monitor the condition of the ceiling daily.
Garage roofs, like the buildings they cover, are a term that combines a wide range of structural varieties. They are erected over standard free-standing boxes, and over lined up garage boxes, and over household structures of vast private estates. They are single and gable, hipped, mansard, etc. They can be equipped with any of the existing types of roofing materials, the choice of which depends on the status and financial capabilities of the owners.
Regardless of the cost of the material used in the arrangement, the repair of the garage roof is the inevitable result of its service. Of course, the more resistant the coating is to destructive factors, which is almost always directly related to the price, the less often it will be necessary to restore its technical perfection. True, durability rarely coincides with the ability to lay and repair it yourself. Therefore, adherents of soft coatings predominate in the ranks of independent owners of car houses, and most often they are used in construction and repair:
- Bituminous-polymer descendants of roofing material for the repair of single-pitched garage roofs made of reinforced concrete panels.
- Elastic vulcanized membrane with EPDM markings, popularly known as "rubber roofing". It is used in the repair of similar low-pitched roofs.
- Flexible shingles, which are figuredly cut pieces of bitumen-polymer material used in the arrangement and repair of gable, hip and mansard roofs with slopes from 11º.
In the vastness of the fatherland, they are rarely carried away with bituminous tiles, although this is a quite promising and easily repaired type of coating. It is mainly used when it is required by the aesthetic culture of decorating the estate, made in a single stylistic spirit.
Let us mention that in the field of arranging garage roofs, slate, ceramics, profiled sheets and metal tiles are used.They are much less in demand, and most often they require professional repair. Therefore, we will pay attention to the most common soft options and methods of their restoration.
Damage typical for soft roofing includes punctures, breaks, bulges, creeping of the coating, depressurization of joints and zones of abutment to adjacent walls or to the parapet. Not all of the listed reasons are accompanied by leaks, but, nevertheless, need to be eliminated. According to the degree of application of efforts and costs, repairs are divided into two types:
- Ongoing correction of coating defects. The current repair consists in correcting small single damage and minor flaws in the construction, if the total area of the repaired surface is approximately 10% of the roof area.
- Roof overhaul. It consists in a complete replacement of the damaged coating, performed when 60% of the damaged roof area is found.
There is a noticeable interval between the indicated percentages, which makes it possible for the owner, in fact, to give preference to one or another repair type. He himself will be able to decide what is more profitable, endlessly patch up the gaps, or lay a brand new coating.
Ongoing repair operations involve pinpoint repair of damage. But during the overhaul of the garage roof, the waterproofing carpet is often completely changed, the abutments and joints are again sealed, the drainage funnels, if any, are sealed. You can also change the slope of the slopes, install additional ventilation elements or insulate the roof. However, before making major design changes, you should consult with the designers.
It is especially worthwhile to treat the installation of thermal insulation. It will, of course, reduce heating bills if the car house is heated autonomously. If you have to repair the usual compartment of a long garage complex with a common heating network without heat meters, there is no point in adjusting and saving the supplied energy.
Again, roof insulation can lead to a violation of the temperature regime of car storage. Indeed, according to the clear requirements of SNiP II-93-74, the thermometer scale in the garage should not show above + 5 ° C. In order for the conditions of the car's maintenance to meet the regulated standards, accurate calculations are needed. Otherwise, condensation will appear in the thermal insulation, and its drops will "sharpen" the outer seams and the paintwork of the body all year round.
We will concentrate on the elementary replacement of the coating that meets the efforts of the home craftsman and his level of craftsmanship.
Roof overhaul is carried out in the warm season. It is recommended that the restoration processes coincide with the period with minimal precipitation. Only in case of emergency is it permissible to carry out work in cold and rainy times with the obligatory installation of an awning over the repaired site. The scope of work on the roofs of private garages is usually small, but it is advisable to complete all operations in one day. As a last resort, on the first day of repair, the roof waterproofing should be completely arranged.
Typical work sequence for a complete replacement of the coating:
Repairs can only be carried out at the temperature conditions specified by the manufacturer of the material. Do not work with coatings if the thermometer shows a value below the limit of its frost resistance. In case of an urgent need to carry out laying with minus readings, the material is preliminarily laid in a heated room. The temperature of its adaptation is from 15º to 20ºС, the holding time is not less than 4 hours.
Let's start by preparing the foundation. Removing minor potholes and cracks will not require a significant period of time or much effort. Worse, if the surface of the reinforced concrete floor has noticeably crumbled, if the boards or slabs of solid flooring are rotten.Such troubles require either pouring a cement screed, or installing a new prefabricated base.
We will assume that the laborious process of complete restoration of the base is not our lot. Then we will find out if its moisture allows you to start laying bitumen-polymer waterproofing. The restrictions specified in SNiP 3.04.01-87 allow starting work if the humidity does not exceed 4-5%. Without a device, literally "by eye", it is impossible to determine the exact parameters of humidity, but there are folk methods, these are:
- A small spill of bitumen heated to almost boiling to the surface. If the bitumen starts to bubble, the moisture content is higher than the established norm.
- Laying a piece of polyethylene on the base with a side size of up to a meter. The edges should be fixed around the perimeter with adhesive tape.
If condensation accumulates on the inner surface of the polyethylene, the base must be dried. Close the base section until noon, check in a day.
You can not resort to folk methods of testing if the old roof does not upset with swelling. The base can then be primed immediately with a bituminous primer to optimize adhesion to the waterproofing overlaid, then:
Upon completion of the laying of the coating, metal parts are installed: aprons, fastening strips to parapets and vertical walls, etc.
The quality of the connection of the coating sheets into a single web is judged by the outflow of the binder along the side edge. The width of this protrusion over the edge is 5-15 mm. After laying the next strip, the outflow on the previous element must be carefully trimmed with a spatula. Poor-quality seams with peeling strips are difficult to repair using a torch. It will be more convenient to warm up the defective place with a building hairdryer with a flattened nozzle.
If the flat top floor does not have parapets, then before you start repairing the garage roof with your own hands, a cornice bar should be nailed along the perimeter or where possible. It is needed for the subsequent fastening of the metal strip and for the decoration of the roof edge.
It is possible to repair the roof with bitumen and bitumen-polymer rolls without removing the old roofing material or similar material, if it was soundly repaired during the current repair, and even with the application of a 2-meter lath, recesses more than 5 mm were not detected.
All currently existing types of roofing membranes are suitable for roof repair. However, for a garage, a membrane with an EPDM marking is considered the most acceptable. The material is absolutely indifferent to the neighborhood of the old membrane and the bituminous coating, it is very resistant to atmospheric attacks. And another plus: it is wide, thanks to which the garage roof can be covered with a single piece without seams.
Algorithm for repairing a garage roof with EPDM installation:
At the end, we put in place the cornice strips, elements of the drainage system and aprons.
If it was not possible to do without butt seams, we glue the EPDM panels with an adhesive with a synthetic rubber base. The above compositions cannot be used to form the seams of the material.
Owners of garages with passages through the roof of communications and with abutments to walls or parapets will need to glue additional layers of reinforcement on top of the coating. Reinforcement carpets around drainage funnels, aerators, pipes are rounded. The size is calculated so that the edge of the reinforcement recedes from the edge of the hole by 20-25 cm. Along the abutment line, the reinforcing pad is applied in strips of self-adhesive membrane so that half of the strip falls on the vertical plane and half on the horizontal one.
It is also better to completely replace worn-out bituminous shingles. Especially if you forgot to stock up on the material of the batch that was used in the initial arrangement. The sequence of actions for replacing bituminous tiles resembles the process of repairing a garage roof with roofing felt or a modernized bitumen-polymer coating.The difference is that the shingles are stacked and attached individually. They are not fused, but glued to mastic and fixed with brushed nails or self-tapping screws.
You should be very careful about dismantling work, because unspoiled elements of the coating can be used later. Nails must be carefully pulled out with a nail driver so as not to damage the crate and not provide yourself with additional work on the construction of a new base. After removing the old coating, waterproofing and fasteners, the surface is thoroughly cleaned. Then the reinforcing carpet is laid down again and the covering is laid.
Finally, to refresh the memory of the principle of the simplest repair of the roof of the garage roof with bitumen roll material will help the video: