The fusion roof is attached to the base by melting its lower bitumen layer with a torch or blowtorch or cold using a solvent. This group of roofing materials is popular due to the speed and uncomplicated installation technology and reasonable price. How is the installation of the welded roof carried out?
The variety of welded roll materials is not limited to one roofing felt, which is a roofing board with bitumen impregnation and protective dressing. More modern versions of this materials are impregnated from bitumen with polymer additives or polymer, and as a base can be used:
The dressing can be coarse (Uniflex TKP, EKP, HKP, Stekloizol) and fine-grained (Uniflex EPP, KhPP, TPP) from sand, shale, asbogal (Stekloizol, Bikrost), and instead of it there can be a protective film (Ekoflex P, Stekloizol P) or foil coating (Uniflex K).
Before starting work on laying the roofing material, it is necessary to prepare the base. It should be smooth and even, it should not have:
Large cracks and potholes are sealed with cement mortar, small ones are filled with bitumen mastic. The oil stains are burned out with a burner. The protruding reinforcement fragments are cut down and cleaned. Dust is removed with brushes, industrial vacuum cleaner, compressor or rinsed with water.
The evenness of the base is checked with a rail 2 m long. Small (up to 5-10 mm) smooth irregularities are allowed, which should not be more than two for every 4 square meters.
Before installation, check the moisture content of the roof. To do this, use a surface moisture meter or simple plastic wrap, which is placed on the roof and check if condensation has formed under it. If condensation does not appear within 4-24 hours, you can proceed with the installation. If the roof is too wet, it is dried with heat guns, you can also treat the surface with acetone and dry it with a construction hairdryer, lay a heating cable in the expansion joints.
Places of abutments to vertical surfaces are prepared by making sides in them at an angle of 45 degrees and a height of 10 cm. For the sides, use asphalt concrete, cement mortar, rigid slabs of mineral wool.
Before laying roofing materials, the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, and then primed with a bituminous primer.
According to SNiPs, the deposited materials are laid in several layers. If technology is followed, this allows you to create a reliable roof with excellent waterproofing properties. For the first layer, roofing material, Stekloizol K, Uniflex EPV are used.
Begin to lay the roofing material when the primer hardens. In this case, installation begins from the bottom of the roof. First, the roll is completely unrolled to ensure that it is in the correct position, then the edge is fixed with a torch and the roll is rolled back.
When installing the roof, the burner is positioned to heat the roll and the primed base. Also, in the process of fusing, the part of the roll that overlaps the previous row is also heated.
After laying the first row, check the adhesion quality.If the material falls behind, it is lifted with a spatula, heated with a torch and glued again, rolling with a roller. The entire tape is rolled with a roller during installation, while you need to move "herringbone" from the middle to the edges.
The overlap of one row on the other along the longitudinal side is made equal to 8 cm, at the ends of the roll - 15 cm. It is the overlaps that are responsible for the tightness of the roofing.
If the weld material is laid in several layers, the seams must not match. Layers are laid in parallel. Above the temperature-shrinkage joints of the screed, lay the material with the dressing, placing it with the dressing down. If there are water intake funnels on the roof, an additional layer is laid around them in the form of squares 0.7 * 0.7 m.
Particular attention is paid to the arrangement of abutments to vertical structures, for example, parapets. To do this, the lower layer of the roofing carpet (from a horizontal surface) is first brought onto the parapet by 25 cm and attached mechanically (not by fusing). After that, a 5 cm finishing layer is brought onto the parapet. Further, a tape made of material with protective dressing is fused onto the parapet itself and on the horizontal surface next to it.
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This method uses a solvent instead of a burner to melt the lower bituminous layer of the material. Apply it with a spray, after which you need to wait 10-15 minutes. Then the rolled material is rolled with a roller, gluing it to the base.
It is necessary to roll each row with a roller at least three times, then there will be no bubbles and irregularities. With this method, difficult places are also protected with an additional layer of roofing material.
The weld-on roof can be made on pitched roofs with an angle of inclination not exceeding 50 degrees. First, a base is made of waterproof plywood or OSB boards, which are coated with a primer. Then, roll material is fused onto the base, while the strips are best positioned vertically. When installing a pitched roof, it is allowed to lay the layers perpendicular to each other.
Repair of a roof made of weldable materials can be cosmetic or major.
Redecoration is performed if the damage covers no more than 40% of the roof area. In such cases, the coating is cleaned of contamination and a patch of the same material of the required size is fused on top.
Overhaul is carried out when the damage occupies more than half of the roof area. Depending on the nature of the damage, repairs may include:
removal of roofing material partially or completely,
reapplication of the primer,
base repair, creation of a new concrete screed,
laying steam and heat insulation,
installation of one layer of roll material over the entire roof area and two layers - near the parapets,
applying a fire retardant coating.
The estimate for the installation or repair of the welded roof includes the cost of all materials, the cost of work on the preparation of the base, if necessary, on the dismantling of the old roof, the installation of a new roof, the arrangement of abutments, the installation of vapor barrier, waterproofing, insulation. The more detailed the estimate is, the better. An example of an estimate is shown below.
The deposited materials allow you to quickly create a roofing carpet, the installation of such materials is not particularly difficult and can be done by hand.
At the same time, it is important to observe the technology and safety precautions when working with the burner.
This article discusses in detail the issues related to the welded roof, starting with the necessary tool and the choice of material and ending with the nuances of repairing flat roofs.
1. Choice of material
The hardfaced soft roof is used for waterproofing roofs with a slight slope, waterproofing foundations and screeds.Installation of the roof covering is carried out with heating of the base and the material itself by the roof burner.
By its structure, the roofing material is a rotting base (the main ones are fiberglass, fiberglass and polyester), on which a bitumen-polymer mixture is applied on both sides. Roofing is carried out most often in 2 layers. The material for the top layer has a protective coating in the form of sprinkling with stone chips, which is designed to protect the roof from destruction by sunlight.
For flat roofing, it is recommended to use roofing material with characteristics not lower than those shown in this table.
2. Tool.
The main tool in roof repairs is the roof burner. It must have sufficient power (at least 100 kW), indirectly, the power of the burner can be judged by the diameter of the nozzle, it is desirable that this value be 50-60 mm. Also, the burner should have a comfortable length, it is recommended in the region of 90 centimeters. The price of a roofing burner is about 1000 rubles.
The optimal length of the gas hose for the burner is 10 meters, you can use a shorter hose, but it will be necessary to move the cylinder more often.
There is such a cylinder in the region of 2500 rubles, and the gas consumption is about 1 liter per 2-4 square meters of the roof.
3. Preparation of the base.
This issue is often hotly debated, since there are two options for repairing an old roof: with and without removing the old coating. Let's consider both options.
3.1 Repair with removal of the old coating
This option is the most correct and reliable. It is necessary to remove the old covering, in the case of a garage - go at least 20 centimeters to the adjacent roofs. Then, if necessary, repair the screed, wait until it dries. Then a bituminous primer is applied.
It is better to leave it for a day to dry properly. After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the overlaid roof. The coating is necessarily carried out in two layers, although there are examples of roofs covered in one layer along the screed, which stand without leaks for several years.
It must be said right away that the durability and reliability of such repairs very much depends on the condition of the old roof. On average, the reliability of such a roof can be estimated at about 70% of the first option. The advantage of this method is more than 2 times low cost and labor intensity.That is why most roofs are repaired according to the second option. Most often, based on financial savings, the repair is carried out in one layer, sometimes in two, in which case the reliability of the coating approaches the first option.
There are cases when it is necessary to remove the old coating, some of them:
So, if you decide not to remove the old roof, the preparation of the base will consist of leveling out irregularities, removing bubbles and sealing large cracks.
4. Fusion technology
The most correct and recommended by the manufacturer method of fusing the roof is to roll out the roll towards itself using a poker with simultaneous heating of the base and material. It is necessary to heat to such an extent that a small roll of molten bitumen appears at the junction. Attention should be paid to the uniformity of heating and to the overlap of the rolls. Molten bitumen should flow out from under the overlap along its entire length.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to cover all issues in one article.
Even the most reliable and durable roofing will wear out over time and require repair - the main truth in the world of professional construction. Rain, hail, snow and a frozen crust of ice can pretty much wear down any material.
But, if any rugged owner knows what to do with a perforated metal roof or a torn soft one, then how to cope with an industrial surfacing, if it so happened that you laid it on a flat roof? Is it really necessary to call an entire brigade just because of one leak?
Not at all! Even one person without the necessary training is able to make a completely high-quality repair of the welded roof of his house, the main thing is only to know the technology, choose the right materials and be careful. As a result, the whole undertaking will take at most one day!
First of all, no matter what condition the roof is in, and no matter how urgent its repair is considered, take the time and slowly inspect the entire surface. For example, if mistakes were made in the installation, then the first problems that arise will entail others.
And having solved a couple of problems, but not finding their cause, you will have to repair the roof again and again, from year to year. Therefore, it is extremely important to make a "diagnosis", and according to it, a successful "treatment" has already been carried out.
The first sign that a roof has minor or major problems is leaks. They appear after rain, after a few hours or days, and sometimes after the snow has melted. And most often, damage occurs when the roof is crossed by communications and where the base itself is deformed.
Usually it's all about mechanical damage and distortion of the geometry of the roof during installation, especially when a marriage was allowed. It is important to pay attention to such mechanical damage to the deposited roof, such as breaks, holes and cuts.
Such damage violates the integrity of the roofing carpet, which causes leaks, the inner layers of the roof are saturated with moisture and lose their properties. This is how the so-called "stratification" of the roofing carpet occurs. It's all to blame for the violation of the rules for the operation of the welded roof.
Plus, the cracks in the junction and exit points, the joints of the slabs, do their job.Even in the upper layer of the deposited roof, over time, due to ultraviolet radiation, microcracks appear, especially when there is no special protective layer.
With a lot of small cracks, a bitumen-polymer mastic with a heat resistance of 90 ° C is applied to the damaged surface of the roofing. Previously, aluminum powder is added to it to reflect the sun's rays, and applied in 2 layers.
In the presence of more solid cracks, patches are already needed that will overlap the defective areas by 15 cm in each direction. But when there is too much damage, it makes sense to repair the roof with deposited materials from the same manufacturer (so that the layers fit perfectly).
Here's how to apply the patch yourself:
Sometimes leaks also occur due to the fact that the insulation inside the roofing cake is wet. In this case, dampness appears on the ceiling of the apartment on the upper floor, and almost over the entire surface.
Usually it's all about the vapor barrier layer, when it is laid with gaps or even forgot to use.
Step 1. Open the roof covering directly over the suspected damage.
Step 2. Completely remove the screed and the entire thermal insulation layer.
Step 3. Dry the insulation and replace the vapor barrier.
Step 4. Lay back insulation, old or new, and fill in a new screed.
Step 5. Glue all the cuts in the carpet with two strips of roll material so that they overlap them by 10-15 cm.
Finally, leaks often appear in specific locations. In most cases, it is a drain funnel, which was not cleaned of rust before pasting. Eventually, the roofing carpet began to flake off. With this, you should do this:
Remove the grate cover and funnel cone.
Take out the bowl and thoroughly clean it of any rust.
You also need to clean the hole, and then coat the edges with cement mortar.
Now place the funnel bowl firmly back.
Apply hot bitumen binder from the underside to the bowl.
Re-glue the main and additional layers of the roll roofing.
This process looks like this:
Also, cracks due to natural causes are not uncommon in those places where the flexible roof is adjacent to galvanized steel overhangs and a concrete cornice slab.
It's all about the heterogeneity of materials, and different materials have different heat capacity. At the same time, the welded roof heats up much faster than concrete and metal.
If there is a problem in such a place, you should do this with a metal base:
Remove the roofing carpet from the metal surface.
Remove the overhang and set it aside.
Use a gas torch to weld an additional strip of material to avoid further leaks.
Straighten the overhang so that it fits snugly against the base. Secure with self-tapping screws.
Now weld the bitumen roll with a polyester backing.
With a concrete surface, do this:
Where a crack has formed, lay the strips of the material to be welded, sprinkling down, and always with a fiberglass base.
Make sure that the strip overlaps the crack by 15 cm.
Restore the roofing with polyester rolls, with 20 cm overlap on the sides.
In more detail, all these methods:
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The next quite noticeable defect is the depressions, right on the surface of the coating. Pay attention to those that are deeper than 10 mm. Most likely, initially, the roll roof was aimed at an uneven base, with depressions and potholes.
Cut the roofing carpet with an envelope, bend the ends.
Level the base with cement-sand mortar.
Dry well and glue back the folded ends of the soft material.
On top of this place, make another two-layer patch, with an overlap of 10 cm on the sides.
Just do not try to fill the cavities with mastic, as some "craftsmen" do!
Another common damage is air and water “bags” on the roof carpet.These appear due to the fact that the roofing carpet is fused onto a damp base or the temperature and humidity conditions were violated (the work was carried out in the wrong weather).
On a hot day, the air bag inflates, on a cold day it deflates. Small cracks appear at the boundary of the bubble, and the flooring here also quickly collapses.
Sometimes the reason is also moisture, which has managed to get between the layers of the rolled carpet. And not only from above, but also from below, from the inside, when the vapor barrier is damaged.
And water vapor rises especially intensively in the summer heat. Like the vapor barrier itself, it is capable of failing due to the quality and letting in more steam than necessary.
Here's how to fix this flaw:
Step 1. Cut open the rug with an envelope.
Step 2. Turn the corners well and dry, and clean all the inner sides and the base of the envelope from dirt.
Step 3. After that, the corners must be glued, and the base must be heated with a flame and rolled with a roller.
Step 4. Now you need to install a patch of material with a protective layer on top of the damaged area - so that the incisions overlap by 10-15 cm.
Unfortunately, the problem can be more extensive, and one patch is not enough. You will understand this by the number of bubbles, of which there will be much more than one or two.
In this case, you will have to open the entire roof covering, even remove the screed and the heat-insulating layer. After all, the matter is most likely in a serious leak. In this case, follow these instructions:
Step 1. Open the roof covering, remove the screed and thermal insulation, and dry the damaged layer.
Step 2. Inspect the vapor barrier, perhaps the problem is in it.
Step 3. Restore the vapor barrier and screed.
Step 4. Put the roofing back in place, and glue the cuts.
Step 5. If the coating is not in the best condition, replace it with a new one.
For example, it is quite difficult to deal with such a water bag with just a patch:
The absence of coarse-grained dressing or top layer in places is usually due to installation errors. In this case, the coating is damaged by snow and ice, and no longer protects the roof from ultraviolet radiation.
Roofing carpet ages and wears out quickly. How does this happen? Mainly due to the wrong slope, due to which stagnant water forms on the roof after rain. By the way, shallow puddles with a depth of 7 to 9 mm are permissible, but more are not.
Most often, crumbs are crumbled in stagnant zones near gutters and in valleys. Such zones form puddles in which dirt and dust accumulate, and moss and other plants grow on them. All this already leads to the biological destruction of the roof.
Another type of defect in the overlaid roof is the formation of folds where the roofing carpet adjoins to vertical surfaces. And sometimes the deposited material completely moves away from the walls and parapets.
This is an installation error, more often - the lack of mechanical fixation of the edge of the carpet to a vertical surface, or the surface itself was not prepared.
Less often, it happens that the additional carpet has insufficient heat resistance. Such a problem always leads to intense leaks, the roof layers and the structure itself get wet. This often happens when the roof is fused onto an unplastered brick surface.
Still often the whole point is in the absence of such galvanized elements as protective aprons and covering of parapets, a clamping strip and others. Sometimes unscrupulous workers do not apply sealant to the top bend of the edge strip. And metal elements tend to corrode.
In any case, the repair technology is as follows:
Step 1. Remove the protective apron, if present.
Step 2. Remove the extra insulation mat.
Step 3. Plaster and prime the vertical surface.
Step 4. Stick on a new carpet with a heat resistance of 80 ° C.
Step 5.Secure the edge of the carpet mechanically, using an edge strip or a galvanized apron.
Step 6. Seal the joints with sealant.
This is what places like this look like:
Sometimes a roofing carpet either flakes off from the base or from another layer of it. This always happens due to installation errors, when the bottom layer is poorly heated, glued to a dirty or damp surface, and the screed is not sufficiently primed.
In the place of delamination, forcefully separate the roofing sheets.
Clean them well from dirt and glue them again.
Seal the gaps with strips of roll material with an overlap of 20 cm.
If the damaged area is too large, or you still see defects, then remove and completely replace the exfoliated panels. The new layers should overlap the edges of the delaminated material by 10 cm.
Often special pads also peel off, which are used for additional protection against moisture:
If the material begins to flake off at the junction with the ventilation pipe, then follow the following photo instructions:
Unfortunately, there are also cases when the sheets of roll material slide directly along the slopes. Usually the reason is the insufficient heat resistance of the material, which literally melts in the sun and peels off like burnt skin, and violations of the installation technology.
One of the most common mistakes is fusing the roof along the ridge on those roofs with a slope of more than 10%.
According to the rules, on the slopes, the rolled roof must be additionally fixed mechanically, otherwise it will slowly slide. And each layer should alternately go through the ridge. If all this is not there, the roof will have to be completely redone.
The build-up roof slides down and the vertical wall of the parapet. In this case, new canvases need to be deposited:
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On fiberglass materials, such a problem sometimes appears: strange spots, on which the absence of a surface layer is noticeable and even the base of the material is visible.
This is a manufacturer's defect, when, even in the factory, the fiberglass was poorly moistened with a bituminous binder, and a defect arose on the roof. And not the smallest: this is how moisture gets directly into the thickness of the structure, and even leaks occur.
The most noticeable on flat roofs are gaps. They often occur at screed shrinkage joints or slab joints. That is, the surfaced roof itself is, if I may say so, not to blame.
But sometimes roofers are to blame. They are well aware that stress will arise in such places in the future, and therefore expansion joints made of rolled material should be laid here. Not laid - cracks cannot be avoided.
In this case, prepare a strip of the weld material and place it directly on the crack, sprinkling down, dry. It is important that the width of the strip is at least 20 cm. Or it will restore the crack with a roll material with a polyester base, like Uniflex EKP, with the same overlap.
If the roofing carpet was damaged and it was not repaired on time, or it just took a long time, serious restoration is needed. In this case, either the old layer is completely removed, or a new one is fused onto it, right over the old one.
As you can see, there is no problem that you cannot deal with on your own!
A garage roof leak risks not only damage to building structures and the need for serious repairs. Water trapped inside a building can damage tools, equipment and materials in storage. Repair of a soft roof of a garage usually does not require special preparation and can be done independently.
The roof is the most vulnerable place of the building, since it is exposed to the most destructive atmospheric influences. The resistance of a soft roof to external influences directly depends on the characteristics of the coating material.Most often, it is an affordable roofing material, but modern fused materials can also be used to equip a garage roof.
At the preliminary stage of repairing the roofing with your own hands, you should carefully examine the roof in order to determine the degree of damage to the flooring. If there is some damage on the surface, you can limit yourself to local repair of the corresponding sections of the roof deck. Serious deterioration of the coating is the reason for replacing the entire roofing carpet or creating a new outer layer of the roof from roll material, mastic or liquid rubber.
If the garage has a roof with a slope of at least 5 degrees, then the repaired roofing carpet made of roll materials can be left as a waterproofing coating, the sheathing can be mounted on top of it and the roofing can be laid from a suitable sheet material.
Depending on the results of the roof audit, a repair method is selected and the required amount of materials is purchased.
Before proceeding with the restoration of the soft roofing with your own hands, the entire surface of the flooring should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and all types of dirt, and dried mastic should be removed. In places of through holes in the coating, the outer layer is opened by means of a cruciform notch ("envelope"), the edges are folded back, dirt and moisture are removed from the base. Areas with badly worn roofing felt should be cut out with an ax. Further, it is required to dry the roofing well, paying special attention to the opened places before local repairs - they are most efficiently dried using a construction hairdryer or a gas burner.
Preparatory and repair work must be carried out only in dry weather during the warm season - the air temperature must be at least 10 ° C.
To repair individual sections of the soft roof, you will need bitumen mastic and roofing material. In the opened prepared "envelope" it is required to put a piece of roofing material, cut exactly to the size of the envelope, after thoroughly smearing the hole with well-heated bitumen in order to exclude the possibility of moisture penetration into the inner layers of the roofing carpet. A layer of bitumen mastic is applied over the laid inner patch and the folded edges of the "envelope" are pressed tightly. The outer patch should extend 15-20 cm beyond the edges of the repaired area. A cut piece of roofing material of the required size is also glued with mastic. For maximum reliability, it is coated on top with a layer of bitumen (special attention is paid to the edges adjacent to the roof), and sprinkled with a layer of sand ... After the mastic has dried, the excess sand should be removed.
If a worn-out piece is cut out in the coating, the resulting cavity is filled with roofing material of appropriate sizes and heated bitumen. The external patch is laid according to the above technology.
To ensure reliable adhesion of the patch to the existing roof deck, it is recommended to remove the outer protective layer of roofing material, consisting of fine-grained mineral chips. To do this, you can use solar oil, which will soften the material, and a metal spatula ... The oil is applied with a brush or brush.
If a roofing material roof has traces of general wear and tear due to aging of the material under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, temperature drops and moisture, which is expressed in a frequent network of small cracks along the entire surface of the flooring, it can be restored with your own hands using :
Bituminous mastic is used in a heated form. The repair compound is applied with a brush to the roofing material. The mastic fills the cracks and provides the required level of waterproofing of the material. This type of repair does not require serious financial costs, it is available for doing it yourself, but it is important to observe safety precautions when working with heated resin.In addition, during the work, it is recommended to cover the surface already treated with mastic with a layer of sand, which will protect the bitumen material from the destructive effects of ultraviolet radiation and extend the service life of the repaired roof.
Liquid rubber - a more technological and durable coating ... This repair compound is a water-based bitumen-polymer emulsion. After drying, the material applied to the roofing acquires the properties of rubber and provides high-quality waterproofing of the surface. If working with two-component liquid rubber requires the use of special equipment, then an affordable cold one-component material can be applied with your own hands using a spatula, brush or roller. The coating successfully withstands temperature extremes, exposure to moisture, UV radiation, and aggressive environments.
To renew the outer covering of a garage soft roof, you can use traditional roofing felt or weldable roll material. The first option is cheaper, but the complexity of installation is higher. In the second case, you need to use a gas burner.
Roofing material is laid on top of a layer of heated bitumen mastic. The bituminous composition is applied to the prepared roof surface in a strip slightly exceeding the width of the roofing material. Roll material is rolled on top, and care should be taken to avoid the formation of bubbles. The overlap of the next strip should be 10-15 cm - it is for this width that the edge of the already laid coating should be smeared with bitumen. Discovered bubbles should be opened by making a small incision. After removing air from the area under the coating, the roofing material must be pressed tightly to the surface and the incision must be smeared with bitumen.
The finished flooring layer should be left to dry for 12 hours. Then the installation of the next layer of carpet is carried out - it should be done with a slight shift in order to avoid overlapping joints. In this case, the roof covering is able to provide the required degree of waterproofing. The number of layers of roofing material in a waterproofing carpet depends on the characteristics of the roof :
5 layers for flat roofs;
4 layers with a low slope (less than 15 degrees);
3 layers with a slope of 20-40 degrees;
2 layers on slopes from 45 degrees.
The lower layers of the carpet are made of fine-grained roofing felt or roofing felt, and for the outer covering it is recommended to roll material with coarse-grained dressing, which is maximally resistant to external influences.
Installation of the welded roof can also be done by hand. The cleaned and dried roof is primed with bitumen. Then the roll of material is rolled out about half a meter, and the free end is thoroughly heated with a gas burner. It is important to heat the corners and edges of the coating well to prevent them from lagging behind the surface. .
The heated piece of the deposited coating is pressed against the roof surface with a roller. Then the roll is rolled out again by 50-60 centimeters, and the wrong side of the material is well heated by the burner. The strips of material are mounted with an overlap of 7-8 centimeters. The roofing carpet should consist of at least two layers, laid with shear joints. Work on the installation of the welded roof should be done accurately and quickly. It is not recommended to walk on the finished coating until it cools completely - this can lead to a violation of the waterproofing properties of the material.
Video (click to play).
The optimal choice of repairing garage roofing will ensure the reliability of the roof of the building and protect the property for a long time.
