Do-it-yourself vaz 2107 roof repair

In most emergencies with damaged roofs, roof replacement is required.

Remove the windshield and rear windows, the roof lining of the VAZ 2107 and its accessories.

Put the new panel on the roof of the body and determine the places where the side panels and the front door pillars of the VAZ 2105 were cut.

• Roof replacement. The arrows show the cutting sites. Dotted lines indicate the cutting lines of the roof panel

With a distance of 8 mm from the edge of the roof panel, cut along the bends of the connections to the windshield frame panels, the rear window frame cross member, the gutters and the side roof panels. At the side roof panels, cut the roof panel 10–15 mm above the markings.

Detach the roof panel, remove the remaining panel strips and clean the body and new panel seats.

Align the body elements at the panel joints and fit the new roof panel in place.

• Welding points of the roof of the VAZ 2104. The dots indicate the contact welding seams. Arrows show the places of gas welding

At the points, gas-weld the roof panel to the windshield panel and side roof panel.

Check the fit of the panel and weld it around the perimeter by resistance welding in increments of 40-50 mm. Gas weld to the side panels of the roof.

In the absence of a contact welding machine, gas welding or electric welding in a carbon dioxide environment is allowed.

Vaz 2107 (seven) is a classic, in the past the pride and beauty of the Volga Automobile Plant. Currently, this morally and technically obsolete car has already ceased to be produced, but until recently it was not only sold by the car plant, but what is most surprising was finding its buyers!
In fact, the answer is simple - the simplicity of the design, the original appearance and the price of the car did not leave other models in this category with great chances of winning the fight for a buyer.
As a rule, the owner of the "seven" was not a very wealthy car owner, who with his own hands can not only sort out all the "offal" of his iron friend in the middle of the field, "on his knee", but also significantly improve its appearance and technical characteristics.
That is, the owner, who was not indifferent to his car, sooner or later still began to tune his car to one degree or another.

• Firstly. Tuning is a change, an improvement to suit your personal needs, that is, in fact, the adjustment of a product for yourself;
• Secondly.
  Tuning is conventionally divided into 3 stages:

1. Engine.
2. Appearance.
3. Salon.

This procedure was, more than ever, in demand in the domestic automotive market. Ask why?
Because a new domestic car is like a new apartment - no repairs, no conditions. Theoretically, you can use it, but is it convenient?

Usually, all improvement work begins with the engine, these are:

• Improvement of the carburetor;
• Replacement of valves, candles and armored wires with foreign ones
• Installation of a zero resistance air filter;
• Installation of a lambda probe;
• Enlargement of the combustion chamber.

The salon of the "seven" is so unattractive that literally everything can be altered here without hesitation and without regret. Removing, hauling, replacing the ceiling of the VAZ 2107 is a standard procedure for owners of used cars.

Also, some of the most common jobs are:

• Padding of seats, salon;
• Installation of power windows;
• Improvement of the heater, in particular the left branch pipe;
• Noise isolation;
• Installing a smaller steering wheel, decent acoustics.

External tuning includes:

• Body painting;
• Installation of alloy wheels, body kits;
• Toning.

Do I need this? Everyone decides for himself.

• We pull out the axis of the visor from the holder by pulling it in our direction.

All experienced owners of this car should know how to make a body repair of a VAZ 2107. At the very least, this will give considerable advantages, it will be possible to save good money on services at the service station and significantly extend the life of the car. Do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2107 involves several operations, and all of them are aimed at improving and modernizing the metal frame of the car.

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It will be useful to know that on the VAZ 2107, body repair covers such basic provisions as eliminating distortions and other deformations of the body, correcting deformations of body parts, welding repairs, replacing welded elements, and so on.

What can damage the body of the VAZ 2107 from? As a rule, up to 6 percent of the vehicle fleet in our country is involved in road accidents of various severity. If collisions of a vehicle are considered minor, then they do not imply any significant damage to body parts. But in major accidents, the damage to the body is so strong that the help or advice of a specialist who knows firsthand how to repair is required. In this case, experience plays an important role, as well as having the right equipment.

It will be interesting to know that extremely catastrophic deformations of the car body occur during a front impact, when the front end is experiencing powerful overloads. If you measure the strength of the energy received in a collision with an oncoming car or any obstacle, then it will always be colossal. The energy is partially absorbed by the car body, which deforms in a fraction of a second.

It is noteworthy that on the "seven" during a frontal impact, not only the front end suffers, but heavy loads are wavyly thrown onto all nearby elements and face parts of the frame. Of all parts of the body, the spars, which absorb the energy of the impact type, and door openings are the most affected by impacts (due to which the clearances are reduced).

In a word, in the process of deformation, there is a general skew of the skeleton, a change in the location of the checkpoint and internal combustion engine is possible.

It is impossible to leave the car in this state. It needs to be repaired, but the nature of the deformation of the body of the "seven" in this case will depend not only on the force of the impact, but on the age of the car and the zone of impact concentration. The price of the work will also depend on this.

One way or another, the body of a used "seven" will not avoid aging. The supporting structure assumes all constant loads from the weight of the transported cargo and the mass of passengers. There is such a thing as dynamic loads arising from the movement of the vehicle. In addition, bulges and pits in the roadway, vibrations of a functioning engine and other components of the machine negatively affect the body.

Attention. The body is especially badly damaged in the process of fast movement on a bad road.

As a rule, the body of the "seven" is designed for several years of service, or more precisely, for 15-20 thousand km of run. Here are the kinds of changes that occur over time:

• Individual body elements are deformed, warping of their surfaces is observed;
• Doors sag over time;
• The design of the openings is violated;
• The integrity of the paintwork and anticorrosive is violated;
• The spars are displaced, warping of the wings is observed, especially with frequent body overloads;
• Cracks are observed at the joints of the body with the struts;
• The weld nuts and bolts are not the same;
• Welding parts are detached, resulting in knocks and squeaks;
• Individual welding spots are also destroyed.

Note. Deformations of this nature are usually called operational. They are restored along the way.

The most dangerous companion of time is corrosion.It is capable of destroying a metal body when it is interconnected with open air. Corrosion is most severe in tight, inconspicuous parts. Such areas of the car are pockets, cavities, sinuses, etc.

Note. Without special protection, the machine steel sheet loses 0.2-0.3 mm in one year if it is outdoors.

The body of the "seven" has a lot of advantages over the frame of automobiles with a frame structure. First of all, this has to do with a 40-45 percent reduction in weight and lower production costs. The assembly itself does not imply any particular difficulties either: cold-rolled steel sheet is used, as a rule, 08KP with the possibility of drawing and good weldability, as well as paintability.

The parts that are most susceptible to corrosion (the underbody and its elements) are made from a special sheet of steel. So, in the VAZ 2107 of the last years of production, the number of galvanized parts in weight exceeds more than half of the entire body.

The most expensive part of any car is the body. Only for its manufacture it takes about half a ton of sheet metal (it is not cheap) and many other expensive materials.

As a result, special requirements are imposed on the body, which it must meet:

• Have visibility in accordance with modern standards;
• Have a shape that is optimal in terms of aerodynamics and functionality;
• Seats must be securely fastened;
• Changes to the front and rear of the body should be within normal limits in case of unexpected accidents;
• Salon, engine and luggage compartments must have sufficient volume for a sedan;
• Compliance with all standards of painting, manufacturing, etc .;
• Finally, good maintainability.

First, the body is diagnosed for compliance with the general requirements:

• The points of attachment of the motor, suspension and gearbox are examined. Base points - that's how they are called. If they are in order, or in other words, their location is in accordance with the factory standards, the handling and stability of the machine will be good;

• Next, attention should be paid to the frame, which consists of individual components. It is to it (frame) that parts called plumage are attached.

A properly centered body is one on which all factory sizes and shapes are perfectly restored. In other words, the integrity of the body geometry is checked, diagnosed as follows:

• The parameters of the clearances of the frame and hinged parts are checked;
• The design of the window openings is checked for compliance;
• The mutual arrangement of the factory points on the base is checked.

We are repairing the Audi 100. The car is bent quite a bit. Racks and glasses bent. The roof collapsed. Before starting work, we recommend that you first think about how to pull the body.

Please note that it is almost impossible to do everything the first time - you need to pull from different points. Try a few points, if it doesn't pull, try other points of hold.

At first glance, it may seem that the roof is flat. However, if the metal is damaged, a "bang" may occur - the roof will move back and forth, the surface bends. In our case, it turned out that way.

It is not worth lifting immediately strongly.

The roof stretches easily, but there are pitfalls. If there are bends on the roof, then they will go further inward.... To avoid this, use a reverse hammer to extract the dips. Clean the places where the dips are formed to the metal and weld, bend the failure as needed. Please note that you need to pull out several points, with one it will still not work.

The places left after welding must be cut off. These are hard places, which then will not allow the roof to reach. Smooth the surface by hitting with a file, having previously installed the stop on the other side.

You should move forward slowly. As soon as spots of iron or bumps begin to appear, this is a signal that the roof is coming up.... Next, you should align all the depressions using a pull and a file. If you are lazy, then you can close up the depressions, but it is recommended. Crawled out cones need to be cut off with a grinder and drown a little so that they do not interfere with pulling the metal.

Grind damaged parts of the roof to metal. There is no need to putty yet, because you need to first measure the diagonals for the glass. The glass must be measured with an elastic band and edging so that it sits flat. After installing the glass, you will see if somewhere you missed or overtightened.

Weld to the desired place on the side member and use the lever to attach the chain to the hood. You need to put something under the car so that it does not dive. Pull gently. Reinforce the weld if necessary.

Spar stretching is not easy. You may need to cut off a portion of the side member and align it separately. The dent must be pulled out before the glass is aligned. You can use a hammer to help with the extraction.

If the spar moves away from the glass, then you need to tighten the glass itself... The car must be secured so that it does not turn around. Use a spacer higher up so that the metal stretches in a straight line.

In most emergencies with damaged roofs, roof replacement is required.

Remove the windscreen, rear glass, headliner and accessories.

Place the new panel on the roof and locate the cut points for the side panels and A-pillars.

Rice. 9-36. Roof replacement. The arrows show the cutting sites. Dotted lines indicate the cutting lines of the roof panel

Stepping back 8 mm from the edge of the roof panel, cut (Fig. 9-36) along the bends of the connections with the panels of the windshield frame, with the cross member of the rear window frame, gutters and side roof panels. At the side roof panels, cut the roof panel 10–15 mm above the markings.

Detach the roof panel, remove the remaining panel strips and clean the body and new panel seats.

Align the body elements at the panel joints and fit the new roof panel in place.

Rice. 9-37. Roof welding places. The dots represent the resistance welding seams. Arrows show the places of gas welding

At the points shown in Fig. 9–37 arrows, gas-weld the roof panel to the windshield panel and side roof panel.

Check the fit of the panel and weld it around the perimeter by resistance welding in increments of 40-50 mm. Gas weld to the side panels of the roof.

In the absence of a contact welding machine, gas welding or electric welding in a carbon dioxide environment is allowed.

Body parts of the VAZ 2107 are welded and hinged type. The first ones are connected with welding points and additionally reinforced with an arc. The attachments can be bolted together. The bodywork conventionally refers to three areas of the car: front, middle and rear. We will find out what their purpose is, how they affect the geometry of the body, its aerodynamics and whether they can be upgraded.

The exterior of the "seven" as a whole copies the rest of the VAZ models, called "classics". On the other hand, some of the details and constituents of the skeleton are not the same. They simply do not fit the general exterior due to the fact that they differ in basic parameters.

Let's start with the front end. These components belong to this area of ​​the car: the hood, the apron with the front bumper (they are more classified as decorative elements) and the fenders.

As for the middle part of the car, this includes the roof of the VAZ 2107, sills, doors.

Finally, the rear of the car includes fenders, a luggage compartment lid and a rear apron.

All main body elements are made of stamped steel, additional ones are made of plastic. If minor damage occurs, then they are easily straightened, and if necessary, replaced with new ones without much difficulty.

Note. With the exception of the "plumage", all elements of the body of the "seven" are connected by welding.

Comparatively, the “seven” looks more modern than the rest of the “classic” models.It is for this reason that the car remained on the production line, although no significant changes were made by the designers.

The car interior is equipped with 4 seats. The front seats are made in the form of an independent adjustable structure. As for the rear ones, they have no adjustment. The interior cladding is plastic, the roof is covered with leatherette.

The interior of the "seven" is structurally excellently protected from frontal and rear impacts, but a side collision of another car can lead to catastrophic consequences.

Detail of the body of the "seven", covering the engine compartment. This is the main purpose of the body element: to protect the "heart" of the car from the external environment and protect it from prying eyes. The hood also has a different purpose, albeit a minor one:

• The aerodynamics of the car in some way depends on the hood;
• The bonnet improves airflow to the engine. The air flows in a directional way and better through special air intakes and additional type slots made in the hood;
• The hood is able to absorb the hum and slight shaking that the internal combustion engine emits during operation. This is especially noticeable at high speeds.

The connection to the body of the VAZ 2107 is carried out by hinges and bolts. The hood itself consists of 2 panels connected to each other by edge rolling followed by welding. All seams and joints are carefully sealed with mastic.

Note. The hood on the VAZ 2107 can be adjusted. For this, enlarged holes in the hood hinges are provided.

The price of the hood separately, as a rule, does not exceed 2.5 thousand rubles.

At the factory production stage, the inside of the hood is covered with soundproofing material. As a rule, on the "seven" it is a polymer.

The hoods of modern cars provide special protection for the windshield and the front of the car. It is called a deflector or simply a "fly swatter". On the "seven", the deflector can be purchased separately and installed with your own hands.

The deflector is able to well protect the hood from the adhesion of midges when the car is moving. Because of this, it is popularly called the "fly swatter". Such protection is especially relevant when driving at high speed.

But this, of course, is not the only function of the deflector. Upgrading the hood in this way can improve the aerodynamic performance of the car, protect the paintwork of the main part from damage. In particular, this applies to the following points:

• The flow of oncoming air after installing the "fly swatter" will go over the windshield, leaving the last element clean. The most important thing is that the wind will no longer interfere with forward movement so much, since most of it will go up;
• The hood itself will be protected from chips and scratches that arose earlier from small stones and grains of sand falling into the opposite lane.

The part can be easily put with your own hands on fasteners of the basic type, that is, metal plates. The latter are, as you know, with holes and are attached on one side to the deflector, and on the other - to ready-made mounts on the hood of the "seven". Look at the photo for a standard fastener with a self-tapping screw.

The hood of the VAZ 2107 has the following dimensions in mm: 950x70x1420. It weighs about 14 kg. It has one of the important meanings in the geometry of the entire body, although it is a hinged element.

The cladding panel or front apron on the "seven" plays more of a decorative role. But besides giving a stylish look, an apron still provides a lot of benefits. In particular, thanks to him, during the rain, water does not fly directly onto the windshield, but is cut off by this element.

The apron is located directly under the bumper and is a flexible shield that also serves to prevent damage to the front of the car from splashes from under the wheels.

This structural element of the body has special holes for the brackets of the front bumper and (the latter is attached to it). The apron, due to its "extreme" position (bottom and front), becomes vulnerable to impact and corrosion.It is connected to the body by means of spot welding.

The design of the "seven" apron must be thought out carefully, to meet the shape and geometry of the entire car body, otherwise it will simply vomit at high speed. In addition, non-compliance with geometry and design will result in increased fuel consumption at high speeds.

The price of a front apron for a VAZ 2107 separately starts from 600 rubles. The part can be of different workmanship, have a different color and different design features.

Front aprons, sold as a separate element of body decoration, come with special ones. As for the family "Semerovsky", they are welded, as mentioned above, with a car body.

The rear apron is also required and must have special mounting plates to keep it stationary and prevent it from coming off on the road.

The bumper is not only designed to keep the energy of the frontal impact first, but also plays a significant role in the exterior design of the "seven". In other words, it is a bar located in front and protects the body from damage in case of minor collisions.

Thanks to modern materials on a synthetic basis, bumpers have become much easier and more beautiful to manufacture than they were before. So, graceful bumpers with bent edges simultaneously act as spoilers, increasing the downforce of the car.

The front and rear bumpers on the VAZ 2107 are made of plastic or thin metal, have chrome lining. Mounted with special brackets.

The front bumper is equipped with a plate for fixing the license plate and for this reason is 5 cm wider than the rear one.

To date, the owner of the "seven" is offered three options for bumpers for the VAZ 2107: plastic, plastic with chrome strips, with brackets for fasteners. The price starts from 600 rubles.

Modernization of the front bumper "seven", first of all, implies an improvement in appearance. Frankly, the factory bumpers of the Vaz 2107 family look fake, to put it mildly. They do not carry any visual, and even more importantly, high-quality functionality.

The implementation of the idea of ​​tuning the bumper on the VAZ 2107 (or the rear one) is to strengthen it with a metal L-shaped section. In addition, to give a more aesthetic appearance, the part moves slightly away from the body.

You need to work with the bumpers removed. Here's what to do:

• Put a pre-prepared reinforcing corner to the bumper and mark the mounting holes, and then drill them into the profile;
• The lower part of the profile bends forward. This creates a fastener for the lower bumper bolt;
• First, the amplifier is attached to the body, then the bumper is attached to it.

As a result, we get a massive bumper that is not afraid of light and medium impacts and looks much more impressive from the outside than the factory one.

The front fenders on the VAZ 2107 are a separate body element with an arched cutout for the wheel. Fastened by welding, although on most modern cars, fixation is carried out using plastic or metal fasteners.

The main task of the wing is to prevent dirt and stones from entering the passenger compartment from under the wheels through the open glass when the vehicle is moving. The front fenders are located along the engine compartment.

In addition to these functions, the wing plays an important role in vehicle aerodynamics. It is not for nothing that the designers working in factories and plants of famous car manufacturers constantly subject this body element to restyling. They try to make the wings as streamlined as possible in order to reduce the counter resistance or CLS.

The rear fender is also welded to the body like the front fender. Fixation is carried out to the side of the body, the rear panel and to the floor of the fuel tank (right). To strengthen the wing, amplifiers are provided, installed on the part from the inside. The right wing is equipped with a fuel filler flap.

The front wing, due to its location, is often exposed to external influences and soon damaged. Find out how to replace it yourself. Here's what to do:

• Remove the hood, bumper and other body elements from the car that impede access;
• Identify spot welding spots by eye. They are located in the following zones: at the place of installation of the headlight, near the compartment of the internal combustion engine on the drain gutter and in the area of ​​the door connection;
• Take a drill and cut off the welding points.

Advice. If the drill does not “pick up” the weld, you can use the punch-off welding method.

• With a chisel with a sharp end, disconnect the points connecting the part to the front of the car, the bottom and the pillar;
• Remove the wing;
• Use a grinder or the same chisel to knock down the remains of a part on the body.

The new wing is placed like this: first, it is fastened with a clamp and welded with points, temporarily. The clamp is removed, the compliance with the gaps is checked, and only then the part is finally welded to the body.

Rear wing castling is carried out with some differences:

• First, the trim in the trunk is removed, in the cabin, the rear seats are dismantled;
• The wing is cut off with a grinder. In this case, it is recommended to retreat from the factory seam by 1 cm;
• Grab the metal remaining on the body with strong wire cutters, remove it;
• Carefully inspect the arch and, if necessary, repair it, with the obligatory priming;
• The new wing is installed like the front one.

After welding, be sure to grind the seams with a grinder, cover them with materials with high protective properties. From the inside, it is advisable to cover the wings with anticorrosive.

The standard cost of the wing starts at 850 rubles.

Video on how to repair the apron and replace the wing