Well, since it happened, you need to operate on him! First, the propeller itself is removed, in this cooler it looks more like a turbine, the blades are at least 2-2.5 times larger than in conventional computer coolers.
Then carefully separate the stator from the plastic base. In fact, it is very difficult and very often the base breaks.
Further, we can see the motor tachometer itself, which actually starts the engine. On the reverse side of the board, a sensor is assembled on SMD components, which is a generator of square-wave pulses, and they feed the stator windings of the motor.
First, we carefully look at the board, if there are breaks, then we solder the jumper and try to start the engine.
In my case, nothing happened and it was decided to upgrade the motor. All SMD components and jumpers are soldered from the board in advance.
For the mod, a working cooler from an ATX computer power supply was taken. It was not quite working (the blades were broken), but the main board with the driver worked. Remove the screw, then take out the board.
On the board, you can see the driver - which powers the entire motor. We solder the stator from the board. We look at the connection of the stator windings - usually 3 outputs, two ends of the windings go to one of the outputs, and one wire to the other two outputs.
Output with two ends - connects to the plus of the power supply, plus is also fed to the first leg of the driver. The second and third pins of the driver go to free contacts (there is no phasing and polarity).
Finally, the last leg of the driver is power minus.
Next, we take the crown and try our upgraded engine. Hooray - it works! Thus, we repaired the electric motor well with our own hands. AKA KASYAN
First, you need to determine what type of system is installed in your device. You will also need to understand the layout and structure of the cooler itself with a bottom water loading. Next, you need to find your model on the manufacturer's website and drive the serial number into the search system using the link: HotFrost V400AS water cooler with bottle loading and then go to the instructions.
The main components of this cooling system are peltier (thermoelectric cooler) and a fan that cools it. Therefore, if the cooler stops cooling the water, then you should look for the cause of the problem, first of all, in the above elements.
Residents of Syzran ask: how to find out for sure what exactly broke in the dispenser, and how to fix it? To do this, you need to do the following steps:
Another scenario is also possible: disassembling the cooler, you may find that the fan is working properly. In this case, you will have to replace the peltier.
It is much more difficult to diagnose and repair compressor coolers.They work on the principle of a freon refrigerator and have much more power than coolers with an electronic cooling system.
Most often, in such coolers the compressor itself breaks down, or freon fluid leaks out, which means that you will have to invite an appropriate specialist to fix the problems. Not every "semi-specialist" will be able to replace the compressor on his own, or to pour freon into the system.
Often, the water in the dispenser remains warm not at all due to a breakdown of the device, but, for example, due to a power failure, a lack of voltage, or due to a faulty outlet.
Perhaps the problem lies in the incorrect position of the cooler toggle switch. Compare the position of the appliance with that described in the instructions that came with the dispenser.
Quite often, the owners of coolers complain that their devices cool the water, but too weakly. There are a lot of reasons for this situation, and the most common of them are:
Repairing the cooling system of a cooler most often requires a professional approach, so if you are not confident in your own abilities, use the qualified help of the appropriate repair services. Otherwise, excessive self-activity can lead to failure of the entire dispenser.
A water cooler is an indispensable assistant in the office, as well as in the house, when you always have high-quality clean water at hand, hot or cold. But, like all technical units, coolers sometimes require maintenance and repair. From time to time it will be necessary to restore the heating in the cooler, which will require a heating element for the cooler price in Ukraine.
The first thing that needs to be done to repair the cooler is to clean it. It happens that problems with a cooler arise precisely from contamination. Therefore, the first step is to clean the cooler.
The cooler should be cleaned regularly, regardless of heating or cooling problems. It is better to plan maintenance of equipment than to fix faults at the wrong time.
Remember that the cooler needs to be cleaned regularly to avoid the ingress of pathogens into the water.
In the case of the last two reasons, we recommend contacting the service center of the manufacturer or service company. But if you have the opportunity to disassemble the cooler yourself and change the failed elements, it will be cheaper. The sequence of disassembling the cooler:
VIDEO
DIY HotFrost cooler repair
Let's consider several cases of cooler repair, for example, let's take a cooler of the HotFrost802CE model.
This article is designed primarily for those people who have the necessary skills to work with electrical appliances, who are able to give an account of their actions themselves. After all, repairing a HotFrost cooler with your own hands is quite a serious matter. And he must be approached with all responsibility. For the rest, the inscription on the cooler “DO NOT OPEN”, which means “DO NOT OPEN” in Russian, should be the final phase in the repair of the cooler. There is no need to climb further. Trust the professionals better. Take your cooler to a repair shop where it will be brought back to life for you.
What to do if the cooler does not heat (does not boil) the water?
The photo shows that there are a total of three indicator lights. If shines yellow indicator , it means that the device is connected to the network. It always burns. Red indicator responsible for heating. It goes out when the water is heated to a temperature of 96 C, and, accordingly, is suitable for making hot drinks (tea, coffee). Green indicator signals the operation of the cooling system. As soon as the cold water temperature reaches +5 C, it turns off. But what if the red indicator is off and the water from the hot tap is cold?
If your cooler does not heat up the water and, at the same time, the heating indicator does not light up, as shown in this photo, then in 90% of cases the cooler has the following faults:
a) one of the temperature sensors (very rarely both come out at the same time)
b) defective Heating element of the heating tank
In order to repair any equipment yourself, including a water cooler, you need to stock up on a tool. So, for example, in our case, you will need the following tools:
b) 15 "open-end wrench
c) small Phillips screwdriver
you will also need plastic clamps necessary to tighten and seal the connections
In order to start the repair, you must first de-energize the device, then remove the bottle and drain all the water from it.
This is the rear view of the HotFrost cooler
Use a curly screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screws that secure the rear decorative panel.
Having removed the rear decorative panel, we can proceed with further repairs.
So, a heating tank with thermal sensors installed on it is located in the upper part of the cooler. In the enlarged photo of the upper part, the tank is located in the lower left corner.
these are the screws used to attach the rear decorative panel of the cooler
On the right stiffener rib, we can find just such a drain plug. It is necessary in order to completely drain the water from the heating tank. The exact same plug can be located on the left stiffener rib (for some cooler models) and serves to drain cold water from the cooling system.
Remove the drain plug cap by turning it counterclockwise. Then remove the rubber seal
Use a 15 ″ wrench to remove the drain plug nut
This is how the cap, rubber seal and drain plug nut look (from left to right, respectively)
We release the drain plug from the bore hole
The tube goes through a hole in the plastic support on which the heating tank is attached
Use a small curly screwdriver to unscrew the heating tank fastening screws counterclockwise
There are only four fastening screws. The difficulty in removing them lies in the fact that there is very little space for a screwdriver, so you need just a small screwdriver, with a total length of no more than 60 mm with a handle
Having released the fasteners, we proceed to dismantle the heating tank itself
We cut off the clamp of fastening of the water supply pipe with pliers
Cut off the clamps of the upper branch pipes with pliers
We remove all pipes supplying water to the tank
We remove the power wire. It is through it that voltage is applied to the heating element. There are only two power wires. Red and black. There is no difference in the disconnection sequence.
We remove the second power wire
We remove the temperature sensors and two ground wires
And the temperature sensors and two ground wires are fastened with such screws. There are only 6 of them.
And this is what a thermal sensor looks like.
And finally, after so many procedures, we got out the heating tank.
As you can see, the seats for the thermal sensors are treated with a special white heat-conducting paste.
This is how the new heating tank from the cooler looks like.
As you can see, the seats for the temperature sensors are clean. They need to be coated with thermally conductive paste for better operation of the temperature sensors.
In the process of everyday operation of water dispensers, a number of malfunctions arise, for the elimination of which it is not always necessary to call a master or service a service center for the repair of coolers.
You can try to fix some breakdowns on the spot, with your own hands, on your own.
Remnants of the protective hygienic cap from the bottle cap prevent water from entering.
Remove the bottle and remove any remaining protection.
If the problem persists, remove the filler neck by turning it at an angle of 10-15 degrees counterclockwise, check the contents of the distribution tank.
Always manually remove the hygienic protective cap from the bottle cap before placing it on a top-loading machine.
The remnants of the label, getting inside, not only pollute the clean water you buy, but, accumulating, gradually disable check valves, taps and other elements of the cooler.
An “air lock” has formed preventing water from entering the dispenser.
Shake the bottle slightly until you can visually detect air bubbles entering.
The bottle has run out.
Make sure there is water in the bottle.
The pump supplying water from the bottle to the top does not work.
Check the connection of the device to the 220V network.
The water sensor is not working properly.
Try removing and reinstalling the bottle water tube.
Get in the habit of turning off (using the toggle switches located at the back of the case) cooling and heating when the water is exhausted and turn it on only after installing a filled bottle and checking the flow of liquid from the taps.
After inserting a full bottle and turning on the toggle switches, wait a few minutes for the Heating and Cooling indicators to turn off.
Microcrack in the walls or bottom of the bottle.
Examine the bottle, try to locate the leak.
In case of defects in the bottle, water should flow out in a thin stream from the gap in the gap with the bottle and the neck.
Usually such a trickle is practically invisible to the eye.
Carefully remove the bottle from the dispenser and call your supplier.
Polycarbonate containers are used many times, but they do not last forever.
The life cycle of a bottle is on average 50-70 uses.
Any bottle undergoes several checks: during acceptance, cleaning, on the filling line, at the supplier's warehouse, at the delivery warehouse, but alas:
Aqua Market quickly replaces such bottles ordered from us with full ones free of charge.
The absence of a valve on the drain hole.
Check valve is present and tighten tightly until leak is eliminated.
Drain valves are usually located on the back of the apparatus, in compressor models it is usually 1, in electronic models it is 2.
To avoid damage to property and short-circuit wiring, do not install the device near expensive furniture and household electrical appliances.
Such devices are capable of cooling about 0.6-1 liters (i.e. 3-5 glasses) of water per hour at a temperature of about 12-15 degrees below the environment.
Move the dispenser to a cooler and more ventilated place, remove the body and bottle from direct sunlight - these measures will help remove a few degrees of heat from the water.
Check the working order of the fan installed inside the cooler (on the back of the device) - it should work to blow out air.
There must be an air gap of at least 20 cm between the back wall and the furnishings of your room.
Failure to comply with this rule not only reduces the cooling efficiency, but can also damage the device.
Too heavy use
A typical dispenser is designed to heat up to 92-97 ° C for about 5 liters per hour. The capacity of the internal tank with already heated hot water is usually enough for 2 cups (400-500 ml).
Before pouring the next glass from the “hot” tap, make sure that the heating indicator has turned off, otherwise the cooler may not have time to heat the water for you.
Check the presence of current and the position of the toggle switches of the heating and cooling systems
After turning on the machine, wait a few minutes until the heating and cooling indicators go out.
The heating rate is also affected by the formation of scale on the walls of the hot water tank. To remove it, you must periodically clean the cooler yourself or with the help of specialists.
We recommend to carry out such processing at least once every 6 months.
To slow down the scale formation process, it is necessary to use only high-quality drinking water with a low salt content, for example, from the Aqua Market assortment.
We sell spare parts for water coolers and other Aqua Work equipment, which we supply to Russia.
A number of components: taps and buttons, temperature sensors, control boards, heating tanks and cooling systems, compressors and peltier elements are successfully used in the repair of similar coolers AEL, AquaWell, BioRay, BioFamily, Ecotronic, HotFrost, Lesoto, Smixx, etc.
We are constantly updating the reference section and adding answers to questions that are most often encountered by Aqua Market buyers.
We sell spare parts and components for Aqua Work equipment, which we supply to Russia.
Failure to comply with the rules of transportation and storage conditions, technical requirements for the installation and operation of dispensers is one of the most common reasons for their breakdowns.
We will show you how you can make a DIY repair of a water cooler, AquaWork model 36TDN, if it does not cool. Our cooler has electronic cooling, a peltier element and a cooling fan are responsible for it. If your cooler does not cool the water, the reason for this should first of all be looked for in the two above elements. In 90% of cases, the thermoelectric cooler and fan fail.
Unscrew all the fastening bolts on the back of your water cooler case with a regular Phillips screwdriver.
Next, remove the back cover. Now you need to start the cooler with the rear cover removed. When the power is on, we observe that the fan is not spinning, the problem is in it. We remove the old fan, the photo below shows the bolts that need to be unscrewed to dismantle and then change it to a new one.
After installing the new fan, we check its performance with the rear casing removed, everything is fine - the fan is working.Now you can screw the back cover back on.
As a result, we can say that the task of repairing a cooler with your own hands is not so difficult. In our case, we got by with a banal replacement of the fan.
The main thing to understand is that this article is applicable to help you repair an electronically cooled cooler (using a peltier element). If your water dispenser is compressor, then it will be more difficult for you to diagnose and repair yourself, in the event of a breakdown, for example, of the cooling compressor of a cooler.
Posted by admin in Repair 02/04/2018 Comments on Water cooler repair: we disassemble it with our own hands, the nuances of repair work on the video are disabled 633 Views
Coolers or water dispensers are becoming more and more popular every year, and such devices can be used both in office premises and in an apartment. The need for clean water will never decrease. Any equipment from time to time, regardless of quality and manufacturer, may become faulty. If the breakdown and malfunction are light, then the repair can be done by hand, without contacting service centers.
High-quality repairs can only be made if the reason is identified. Before disassembling the device for water purification, carefully read the instructions for the cooler, which indicates possible malfunctions and solutions.
There can be many reasons for the malfunction. Often there are those that can be eliminated fairly quickly. Let's take a look at them.
If dirt has accumulated in the cooler, then it will stop working - it will need cleaning .
First, the device is disconnected from the mains and the water bottle is removed.
The surface of the cooler should be thoroughly rinsed using ordinary dishwashing detergents. The work must be done carefully, especially in the place where the needle is located, on which the container for the liquid is put on.
Then they take up the pallet. It is thoroughly washed, rinsed.
All parts of the dispenser are wiped dry with a soft cloth.
Then all elements of the device are returned to their places. Pour water into the bottle and drain a little through the faucet. This is necessary to flush the tap, as some detergent may remain in the tap.
Most often cause of malfunction is as follows:
The device is not connected to the mains.
We did not press the power button on the panel.
After carrying out the necessary operations, the indicator still does not light up, check the outlet itself. It's easy to do: take any electrical appliance and plug it in. If it does not start working either, the reason is a malfunction of the outlet itself: either replace it, or plug the cooler into a different outlet.
If the cooler does not start working in it, you will have to disassemble equipment:
We remove the panel on the rear panel, check the fuse is working. If necessary, insert a new element.
Again, nothing happened, which means that the reason is in the heating element. In this case, the malfunction can only be eliminated at the service center.
There are only two reasons for the appearance of such a malfunction:
When installing the bottle, they forgot to remove the label.
If the owners use the cooler correctly , follow the instructions, then, as a rule, such misunderstandings do not arise. In addition, checking the operation of the taps should be done every time the water in the bottle is changed.
If you notice that from the dispenser water spontaneously flows out , check the integrity of the container. Perhaps microcracks have appeared on it. You can eliminate this error yourself. To do this, remove the damaged bottle and replace with a new plastic container.
If liquid is constantly leaking, dripping from the tap, then you cannot cope with the problem with your own hands: only the specialists of the service center can remove this malfunction.
Electronic coolers often suffer from this ailment. This is due to the design of the equipment and technical capabilities. Cooling of one liter takes place in an hour, while the water temperature can be fifteen degrees below the ambient air.
The coolers do not have great performance capabilities. These devices do not belong to high-performance appliances ... If you need colder water, then the cooler is installed in a cool room out of the sun.
The technical parameters of the coolers are to blame for the malfunction. In a standard device, no more than five liters of water can be heated in one hour. If the liquid is poured in a larger volume, then the cooler does not have time to heat the water.
This is not a breakdown of the device, it can be easily eliminated if the instructions for use are followed. But the presence of scale contributes to the fact that the water will not heat up quickly enough.
The cooler should be mechanically cleaned from time to time. The work is carried out depending on the model and recommendations.
Self-tapping screws are unscrewed from the back wall using a curly screwdriver. A tank with temperature sensors, in which the water is heated, is located at the top of the device.
On the right, a drain plug is rigidly attached through which water is drained. There is another plug on the left, which is removed to drain the cold water in the cooling system.
Taking the key number 15, you need to remove the rubber seal. Using a small curved screwdriver with a long enough handle, remove the 4 screws.
We dismantle the heating tank by cutting off the clamps from the branch pipe, and then all the pipes.
Then we are engaged in the removal of power wires, thermal sensors, ground wires with six screws.
If, after removing the tank, there is no paste on the seats, then you need to cover them with thermally conductive paste.
After that, we begin assembly, starting with the last removed part.
After completing the assembly, fill the system with water. We check how it flows. After that, it remains to connect the device to the network. If the indicator lights are working properly, then the problem has been fixed. You can watch the video in more detail about this operation.
The cooler may fail if it was turned on when there was no water. Heating elements heat up and burn out.
The pump has failed. You need to connect the cooler to the network and check the operation of this element.
When installing the cooler, make sure that there is a distance of about 10 cm between the device and the wall. Otherwise, the device may quickly become unusable.
Use water with a low salt content, then scale will not appear soon.
Do not leave the cooler plugged in if it runs out of water.
Never disassemble the device yourself if the cooler has not expired the warranty period.
VIDEO
The days when drinking tap water was tasty and healthy and could be drunk without additional filtration are long gone. At present, the quality of water supply has significantly decreased, and it is for this reason that special devices - water coolers - are increasingly appearing in office premises, as well as in enterprises and public places.
A cooler is a device designed to provide employees and visitors of enterprises, offices, city and private companies, as well as other facilities with drinking cold and hot water. It is a structure consisting of a container with drinking water (usually a plastic bottle with a capacity of 19 to 30 liters), a dispenser, a connecting pipe and a check valve.
After connecting the tank, the liquid enters the dispenser distribution system, which consists of containers for storing cold and hot water.First of all, the liquid enters the cold water tank, from where it is fed through the connecting pipe to the boiler, where hot water is prepared. A check valve is installed between the two tanks, which balances the pressure of the system and prevents the intersection of water flows.
The main parameters by which water coolers differ are:
water heating and cooling power;
heating and cooling performance;
cooling technology;
method of loading a container with water.
Water coolers are divided into several types depending on the installation method and the mode of cold water supply.
If you plan not to use the device for a long time, you should disconnect it from the power supply.
compactness;
dual mode (cooling and heating water);
variety of models;
availability of additional functions of carbonation and water filtration;
built-in storage compartment for various utensils (not in all models);
suitability for intensive use;
ease of use.
independence from the available water supply;
no restrictions on water consumption;
deep cleaning degree;
profitability due to the low cost of tap water.
the need for periodic filter replacement;
high price;
inability to move after installation;
dependence on the water supply system.
Depending on the cooling technology used, there are two types of coolers: electronic and compressor.
The operation of coolers with an electronic cooling system is based on the passage of an electric current through conductors that are cooled at their junctions.
the cooling rate is about 3 l / h;
reliability and environmental friendliness. Devices of this type do not use freon, so they are free from refrigerant leakage problems;
light weight and low cost.
Coolers with a compressor cooling system operate by using a refrigerant - freon, which is also used in refrigerators.
Features of compressor coolers:
durability and strength;
high performance;
the ability to adjust the cooling temperature.
ease of use;
compactness;
low cost of installation and maintenance work;
noiselessness;
possibility of transportation in a horizontal position.
reduced performance;
undesirability of installation in dusty and unventilated rooms (otherwise more careful maintenance is required);
relatively slow cooling of the liquid;
low productivity (the device can be served simultaneously by no more than three people).
the ability to adjust the water temperature;
high performance;
cooling to sufficiently low temperatures.
The scheme and device of the cooler depends on its type and purpose, as well as on the technology of water filtration.
The flow-through water cooler consists of a four-stage filter, an ultraviolet lamp, tanks for hot and cold water with appropriate elements (heating and cooling). The use of a large number of filters and a UV lamp is due to the fact that the water supply system (plumbing) is used as a source of water. They interfere with the reproduction of viral and bacterial particles.
The compressor-cooled cooler consists of the following components:
The choice of a drinking cooler is a rather crucial step, since the quality of water and, accordingly, the health of people will depend on its type and device.When choosing a cooler, you should be guided by the following characteristics:
The size of the apparatus.
Filtration technology. The most preferable would be a device with a multistage water purification system.
The presence of an ultraviolet lamp, especially if children are expected to drink the water.
The temperature of the water inside the device. Better if it is +98 o С for hot water and +4 o С for cold water. An additional advantage will be the ability to regulate the temperature.
Additional functions: child protection, dispenser, timer (programming the cooler for automatic on / off).
Despite the fact that the water cooler is a household appliance, it is designed for long-term use and therefore requires periodic maintenance and sometimes repair. To carry out these works, the device often needs to be disassembled.
In order to disassemble the cooler, you need to do the following:
Take a curly screwdriver and unscrew the screws.
Remove the rear cover.
Further analysis depends on the type of malfunction.
During operation, a variety of malfunctions can occur, ranging from elementary ones that can be corrected on their own, and ending with complex ones associated with the breakdown of electromechanical components.
VIDEO
The weakening of heating may be due to the fact that scale has formed in the hot water tank during operation. ... In order to check the presence or absence of scale, you need to do the following:
Open the back cover of the cooler.
Find a container for heating water (usually located at the top of the device).
VIDEO
Additionally, you should check the heating element (thermoelectric heater), since damage to its integrity or a decrease in resistance can also lead to a deterioration in the quality of water heating.
Remove the heating element from the heating tank.
VIDEO
Partial or complete loss of the cooler's functionality, as well as an unpleasant taste of water, may appear due to accumulated dirt. In order not to bring the device to a neglected state, it is necessary to clean it from dust on a monthly basis. Before starting this process, it should be remembered that four things are prohibited: washing the cooler under a tap or shower, installing the device in a dishwasher, disinfecting with a steam cleaner, and using abrasive detergents (powders and solvents).
In order to clean and disinfect the cooler, you need to do the following:
VIDEO
A decrease in the quality of water and a deterioration in taste can occur not only due to contamination of the apparatus, but also due to the loss of their properties by filters. In order to replace the filters, you need to do the following:
Take a screwdriver and unscrew the two screws on the back panel.
Remove the top cover or open the back cover of the device (depending on the model).
Disconnect the corner fittings.
Most cooler manufacturers recommend adhering to the following filter replacement schedule.
Well, since it happened, you need to operate on him! First, the propeller itself is removed, in this cooler it looks more like a turbine, the blades are at least 2-2.5 times larger than in conventional computer coolers.
Then carefully separate the stator from the plastic base. In fact, it is very difficult and very often the base breaks.
Further, we can see the motor tachometer itself, which actually starts the engine. On the reverse side of the board, a sensor is assembled on SMD components, which is a generator of square-wave pulses, and they feed the stator windings of the motor.
First, we carefully look at the board, if there are breaks, then we solder the jumper and try to start the engine.
In my case, nothing happened and it was decided to upgrade the motor. All SMD components and jumpers are soldered from the board in advance.
For the mod, a working cooler from an ATX computer power supply was taken.It was not quite working (the blades were broken), but the main board with the driver worked. Remove the screw, then take out the board.
On the board, you can see the driver - which powers the entire motor. We solder the stator from the board. We look at the connection of the stator windings - usually 3 outputs, two ends of the windings go to one of the outputs, and one wire to the other two outputs.
Output with two ends - connects to the plus of the power supply, plus is also fed to the first leg of the driver. The second and third pins of the driver go to free contacts (there is no phasing and polarity).
Finally, the last leg of the driver is power minus.
Video (click to play).
Next, we take the crown and try our upgraded engine. Hooray - it works! Thus, we repaired the electric motor well with our own hands. AKA KASYAN
