DIY uaz loaf gearbox backstage repair

Dismantling the gearshift mechanism
SEQUENCING

Use a narrow slotted screwdriver to knock out the plugs of the gear shift rods.

Using the "17" key, unscrew the plug-plug of the retainer socket.

Using pliers, remove the safety wire of the bolts securing the forks to the rods ...

... and turn off the three bolts with a 10 key.

We knock out the fork rod of the 1st-2nd gear with a beard together with the plug.

We take out the plug and stem.
In order not to confuse the rods, we immediately put the forks on them and fix them with bolts.
Similarly, we knock out the fork rod of III-IV gears), ...

The blocker pin is located in the middle rod.
Knocking out the rod of the reverse gear fork, ...

... take out the ball with a spring.

Using the "10" key, unscrew the three bolts securing the fuse cover.

We take out the ball with a spring (fuse holder).

Sinking the ball with a slotted screwdriver, insert the stem into the hole in the cover.

We put a fork on the stem, tapping on the end of the stem with a soft metal hammer, ...

... and fix it with a locking bolt, aligning the holes of the stem and the fork.

Install the plunger into the channel between the reverse gear fork and the III – IV gears.
Similarly, install the III – IV gears rod with a fork and the second plunger (between the III – IV and I – II gears).
We install the rod of I – II gears, a fork, a ball with a spring and a stopper plug.
Clamping the switching mechanism in a vice and installing a lever on it, we check the correct assembly and operation of the mechanism. The rods should be easy to move and clearly fixed.
Counter bolts of gear shift forks with safety wire.

Orient the oil deflector washer with a protrusion to the inner ring of the bearing.

The bearings are pressed onto the shaft with a piece of pipe of a suitable length and corresponding diameter.
We carry out further assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order, while degreasing the gaskets and bolts of the crankcase covers and applying sealant to them.
We check the gear shift on the assembled box by turning its shafts by hand. Having installed the gearbox on the car and filled with oil, we check its operation in motion. Transmissions should turn on clearly, without jamming and noise. At the same time, make sure that the gears are fully engaged.

ATTENTION
The lever travel when engaging the first gear in a gearbox with synchronizers only in III-IV gears is 2.5 times greater than when engaging the second gear. Failure to engage the first gear causes rapid wear and destruction of the gears.

The gearbox cover on the UAZ loaf, like on any other car, is an important part of the gearshift control mechanism - if a malfunction occurs in it, driving a car is either impossible due to the inability to engage the gear, or it is dangerous due to the fact that only some of them work from the steps.

The cover itself is the main part of the gearbox. In this regard, in case of any malfunctions with the lever or suspicious noises from the box, it is recommended to check its condition - perhaps this part needs a complete replacement, and not minor repairs.

Repair of the gearbox cover on a UAZ loaf will differ depending on what kind of problems arose in it.

For example, in a situation where the bushings are worn out, you can proceed as follows: make new bushings and put the cover back, pre-bore a place for it (in this case, the axles are replaced with completely new ones).

Oil dripping from axles due to worn bushings can be eliminated in another way.To do this, you need to remove the levers, cut off pieces of small thickness (which is individually matched to the lid) from a pre-selected hose with resistance to oils and gasoline, insert them on the axles and pull them with levers.

In this case, the levers will turn a little tighter, but the gearshift speed will remain.

Some users, if they find similar problems associated with wear of the splines on the axles and the lack of gears, advise not to repair the cover, but to purchase a new one.

In this case, the new part of the UAZ loaf must be modernized before installation. For this, fluoroplastic ones are placed in place of the rubber bushings.

The removed bushings are cut and installed on the shafts under the levers, which ensures that there is no backlash and that this part of the mechanism is protected from dirt and water.

If any of the gears began to knock out, it is worth checking:

• condition of balls and springs in the gearbox coverthat fix the rods when switching speeds - perhaps the cause of the problem lies in their wear, and these components need to be replaced;
• then, what is the condition of the gears - this can also cause transmission failures;
• bushings - if the problem is in them, then this detail can be strengthened.

The most common cause of knockout gears lies in worn gears and balls, as well as in broken springs.

In addition, before repairing the gearbox cover, you should pay attention to the general condition of the mechanism - perhaps behind a major breakdown, which is clearly visible, several minor malfunctions are hidden, or the entire mechanism is so worn out that it would be wiser to replace it with a new one.

If the splines on the shaft have been licked, it threatens to replace the cover assembly. ideal. You need to climb and watch.

The shaft also changes, the cover assembly will be expensive
shafts come with large splines and with small ones and strips too, so you need to take in a pair

here is the lid here and on the fingers everything can be explained

Thank you very much. Now I understood everything what kind of cover and what kind of shafts. And in UAZ I'm really a goof, because I myself only changed the brake system, the right CV joint, distributor, carburetor, brought out the snorkel, changed the front stove.

Thank you very much. Now I understood everything what kind of cover and what kind of shafts. And in UAZ I'm really a goof, because I myself only changed the brake system, the right CV joint, distributor, carburetor, brought out the snorkel, changed the front stove.

Already about you it cannot be said that you are a goof in the UAZ

I had this bullshit two weeks ago

In short, if only 3, 4 are turned on and the back one, then everything converges:
operation # 1, climb under the car and shake everything with your hands.

if everything is screwed on - especially carefully - look at the shaft with a straight foot (it is horizontal, sticking out of the box with a nut towards the driver), it is he who is responsible for choosing 1-2, 3.4 and rear. if everything is screwed on - further

operation No. 2 remove from the foot, on the horizontal shaft the rod (long, which goes forward in the driver's seat) and put the vertical shaft (which is down with a nut) in the middle position and try to turn the horizontal shaft (from which the rod was pulled out) - it should go back - you feel that you are compressing the spring - this is the back one, when you release it, it stops in the middle (these are the 3rd and 4th), it should move forward and fix - (these are 1 and 2)

here in this place, you should have difficulty, in theory, this shaft should not be fed forward into any
if everything is so, boldly drain the oil from the box and unscrew the cover of the gearshift mechanism, first remove the wires from the frog and remove the rod from the foot of the vertical shaft.
buy a sealant and a new gasket for this mechanism
this garbage is arranged very simply - most likely the foot, which is on this horizontal shaft, jumped out of its place, but if something broke, it’s already more difficult there. - the main thing, if you are going to disassemble the mechanism, be sure to note how the legs stood, which gears in the box move, so that later they do not have to be adjusted, and disassemble it over the basin in some way so that the gaps and balls can be found :-)))

in my case, I was a fool changed the oil seal on the vertical shaft and managed to make it so that the vertical shaft jumped out of its place and stood on top

Well, taking into account the fact that it’s expensive for you to go to the store, (they already wrote) if the gears popped up - balls with springs from this mechanism (but to disassemble it - to collect it - it’s a haemorrhoid in a mild form, if possible it’s better to do without it )
and everything else, after troubleshooting, especially since people say there are options for a vertical shaft, with small slots and large ones.

and in my message, I found a jamb, with a complete disassembly of the mechanism - it should be noted how the FORKS (and not the legs) of the gear change (which are inside the box) are.

P.S. I highly recommend that you figure out this fucking cover for yourself once and for all. Then subsequent interventions into it will be just a kid's game)))
P.S. 2. Probably what I called the stocks, it would be more correct to call the shafts, as the miracle wrote, and the rocker = his paw. It's just too lazy to look for the exact names. I'm sure you'll figure it out

Nowhere can I find a scheme for the operation of this backstage. As a souvenir, I don’t remember what kind of slots on the shaft (threatens to replace the cover assembly), what kind of slots on the strap (then replacement of the strap). If you can link to the device of this site. I've been looking for an hour on the UAZ, but I can't find it.

In general, the idea is this: there are 2 rods on the box, on the box they are attached to 2 levers, vertically and horizontally respectively. The levers on the axles sit on tapered splines, and are tightened with M8x1 nuts. These same nuts are often released, the lever loosens and licks the slots. This loaf disease is terrible. Every time you climb the front of the car, it is imperative to check the tightness of this nut.

In general, the idea is this: there are 2 rods on the box, on the box they are attached to 2 levers, vertically and horizontally respectively. The levers on the axles sit on tapered splines, and are tightened with M8x1 nuts. These same nuts are often released, the lever loosens and licks the slots. This loaf disease is terrible. Every time you climb the front of the car, it is imperative to check the tightness of this nut.

And there are also so-called reinforced axles and levers, respectively, their slots are not on a cone as on ordinary ones, but practically straight, and the size will be bigger, I put this three years ago and since then only tried to tighten it once, however, without much success, no backlashes, in short, I recommend.

The gearbox cover on the UAZ loaf, like on any other car, is an important part of the gearshift control mechanism - if a malfunction occurs in it, driving a car is either impossible due to the inability to engage the gear, or it is dangerous due to the fact that only some of them work from the steps.

The cover itself is the main part of the gearbox. In this regard, in case of any malfunctions with the lever or suspicious noises from the box, it is recommended to check its condition - perhaps this part needs a complete replacement, and not minor repairs.

Repair of the gearbox cover on a UAZ loaf will differ depending on what kind of problems arose in it.

For example, in a situation where the bushings are worn out, you can proceed as follows: make new bushings and put the cover back, pre-bore a place for it (in this case, the axles are replaced with completely new ones).

Oil dripping from axles due to worn bushings can be eliminated in another way.To do this, you need to remove the levers, cut off pieces of small thickness (which is individually matched to the lid) from a pre-selected hose with resistance to oils and gasoline, insert them on the axles and pull them with levers.

In this case, the levers will turn a little tighter, but the gearshift speed will remain.

Some users, if they find similar problems associated with wear of the splines on the axles and the lack of gears, advise not to repair the cover, but to purchase a new one.

In this case, the new part of the UAZ loaf must be modernized before installation. For this, fluoroplastic ones are placed in place of the rubber bushings.

The removed bushings are cut and installed on the shafts under the levers, which ensures that there is no backlash and that this part of the mechanism is protected from dirt and water.

If any of the gears began to knock out, it is worth checking:

• condition of balls and springs in the gearbox coverthat fix the rods when switching speeds - perhaps the cause of the problem lies in their wear, and these components need to be replaced;
• then, what is the condition of the gears - this can also cause transmission failures;
• bushings - if the problem is in them, then this detail can be strengthened.

The most common cause of knockout gears lies in worn gears and balls, as well as in broken springs.

In addition, before repairing the gearbox cover, you should pay attention to the general condition of the mechanism - perhaps behind a major breakdown, which is clearly visible, several minor malfunctions are hidden, or the entire mechanism is so worn out that it would be wiser to replace it with a new one.

Assemble the gear shift control mechanism for cars of the UAZ-3741 family in the reverse order to disassembly.

After assembly, adjust the transmission control mechanism. Perform the adjustment by changing the length of the horizontal - 8.11 (see Fig. 106) and vertical - 5, 14 rods in the following order:

1. Before starting the adjustment, set lever 9 to neutral position (N), and lever 10 to position III-IV until it stops in the locking spring.
2. Set the gear shift lever I to the position corresponding to the selection of gears I and II. In this position, connect and secure the selection rods 8 and 14, without allowing the levers to be tightened.
3. After that, put the lever 1 in the position corresponding to the selection of gears III and IV and also freely connect the shift rod 5 and 11.
4. At the end of the adjustment, check the completeness of the gears. To do this, engage first gear and make sure that the rods and levers do not rest on adjacent parts. Perform the same check by engaging reverse gear. In doing so, make sure that the intermediate lever 6 does not rest against the frame cross member and the mudguard. When the reverse gear is on, the gap between them should be 2-3 mm.

Rice. 106. Gear shift control mechanism for cars of the UAZ-3741 family:
1-gear shift lever; 2-seal mechanism; 3-select mechanism lever; 4-shift mechanism lever; 5-vertical shift rod; 6-intermediate shift lever; 7-intermediate selection lever; 8-horizontal rod of choice; 9-gear shift lever; 10-gear selector lever; 11-horizontal shift rod; 12-bracket intermediate levers; 13-intermediate selection lever; 14-vertical rod of choice; 15-grease nipples

UAZ 452 "loaf" is a fairly reliable Soviet four-wheel drive SUV. The main breakdowns of this car are associated with leaks of lubricating fluids from the engine, gearbox (gearbox), front and rear axles, constant velocity joints (CV joints) and hubs. The main reason for the formation of such leaks is that the material from which the original seals and gaskets of the above units are made is partially corroded under the influence of modern lubricating fluids. Due to poor lubrication, moving metal parts are subject to heavy wear and must be replaced periodically. It is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance of the UAZ 452 at least once a year, change leaking oil seals and gaskets, and adjust the clutch.

The problem is that finding a factory manual for these SUVs is quite difficult. Therefore, we bring to your attention an instruction that will allow you to repair a car yourself.

As you know, the repair of a car engine begins with its dismantling. And only then disassembly, replacement of damaged parts and assembly is carried out. Overhaul of a power unit is not an easy task, so it is not worth doing it yourself, without the help of experienced craftsmen. But you can change the oil seals yourself.

The factory repair manual for the UAZ 452 car states: to remove the power unit, you need to lift it up from the engine compartment. With this method of dismantling, you need 2 strong pipes (longer than the width of the cab) and the help of 2 people.

That's it, the power unit is removed.

It is easy to check whether an engine overhaul is necessary: ​​you need to put your hand to the open oil filler neck of a running engine. If the palm pushes out, then disassembly is required.

Quite often, in UAZ 452 cars, the free travel of the clutch pedal is not adjusted. This leads to increased wear of the driven disk and the need to replace it early. Adjusting the clutch of a UAZ 452 car is quite simple.

Clutch drive design.

1. Clutch pedal.
2. Brake pedal.
3. Springs.
4. Oiler.
5. Thrust bearing.
6. Clutch.
7. Clutch spring.
8. Lever arm.
9. Adjusting bolt.
10. Fork.
11. Pusher.
12. Fork spring.
13. Traction.
14. Grease nipple.

Clutch Pedal Adjustment

The factory manual for the repair of UAZ wagon-type vehicles sets the following unit parameters:

• the gap between the pressure bearing and the screw heads of the levers - 2.5 mm;
• pedal free travel - 28-35 mm;
• full pedal travel - 145-155 mm.

Clutch adjustment is carried out as follows.

1. We measure the free and full travel of the clutch pedal with a ruler.
2. Remove the pedal springs and clutch fork.
3. We loosen the pusher nut.
4. Unscrew or twist the thrust end of the pusher until the recommended parameters are reached.
5. We tighten the pusher nut.
6. We put the springs back on.

After that, we check the combined and full pedal travel. If they correspond to the recommended parameters, we start the engine and check the operation of the clutch while driving. If it does not drive or skid, the clutch adjustment is complete. If something bothers you, we repeat the procedure until the desired result is obtained.

You can adjust the travel of the clutch pedal by changing the length of the lower links.

In order to facilitate access to the engine from the car interior, it is necessary to carry out a small modernization of the UAZ "loaf" body on our own.

In the wall separating the cab from the passenger compartment, there is a closed niche in which the rear of the engine is located. In this niche, you need to carefully cut a hole and install a homemade hatch on it. Such tuning of the UAZ "loaf" body with your own hands will save you from having to dismantle the cylinder head every time you need to adjust the valves or replace their pushers.

We reduce the backlash of the manual transmission gear lever UAZ 3303 (UAZ 452)

Probably everyone saw this demotivator

One of the reasons for this is the play in the intermediate selector and shift levers (6 and 13 in the next figure).

Gear shift control mechanism for cars of the UAZ-3741 family:
1-gear shift lever; 2-seal mechanism; 3-select mechanism lever; 4-shift mechanism lever; 5-vertical shift rod; 6-intermediate shift lever; 7-intermediate selection lever; 8-horizontal rod of choice; 9-gear shift lever; 10-gear selector lever; 11-horizontal shift rod; 12-bracket intermediate levers; 13-intermediate selection lever; 14-vertical rod of choice; 15-grease nipples

These photos clearly show what kind of play the intermediate levers and rods have (5,6 and 13,14).

To reduce the backlash, I used a suitable size washer.

The price of the issue is 40 rubles, and 20 minutes of time.

It is worth noting that there are improvements in gear shifting, but this is still not enough!

There is still some play in the axle on which the intermediate levers are held. Probably you need to change this link entirely. I have to see if it is in stores.

pavelzhuravlyov Dec 10, 2009 10:51 pm

I, too, on a loaf under load, pops up a reduced one. I think the point is in the adjustment, since nothing should be demolished yet. Mileage is only 15,000 thousand kilometers.

I, too, on a loaf under load, pops up a reduced one. I think the point is in the adjustment, since nothing should be demolished yet. Mileage is only 15,000 thousand kilometers.

And what, with novya jumped out? when did it start?

On my killed unit, the lowered one crawled out slowly, but on some extreme snot it kept and did not jump out.
After replacing the box with a new one and the bulkhead of the transfer case (without replacing the gears, like the good master said) - it crashes, and abruptly: click and you're done

pavelzhuravlyov 11 Dec 2009, 22:31

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The gearshift mechanism of the four-speed semi-synchronized gearbox of cars of the UAZ-452 family is mounted in the side cover of the gearbox. The gear shift forks are attached to the rods with a tapered screw cotter pinned with wire.

The movement of the forks when shifting gears occurs together with the rods, which have a socket for a locking screw and grooves for latches and a locking device. In addition, the middle rod has an intermediate pin of the locking device. When one of the gears is switched on, the rod moves and locks the adjacent rods with the rod through the crackers.

Thus, each of the remaining rods is closed with a keylock and cannot be removed from the neutral position until the previously switched rod is returned to the neutral position. The same lock prevents the simultaneous inclusion of two gears.

The forks in the neutral position and in the positions with the gears engaged are fixed with balls. To switch the forks, a clutch with a lever, fitted on the splines of the vertical shaft, is used. The clutch lever head fits into the grooves of the forks. The clutch can move along the roller in the axial direction. When the roller rotates, the clutch turns and its lever moves one or another fork.

In this case, in the uppermost position, the clutch is connected to the fork of the first and second gears, in the middle position - with the fork of the third and fourth gears, in the lowest position - with the reverse fork ^. The middle position of the clutch is fixed by the stop of the clutch in the washer, against which the spring rests. In order for the clutch to take the lowest position, additional force must be applied to compress the spring. On the outer end of the roller, splines and threads are cut for installing the gear lever.

To move the clutch up and down, a control lever is used, which rotates on the roller and enters the groove of the clutch. The outer end of the roller has slots and threads for attaching the outer arm. The rollers are sealed with rubber O-rings.

The outer control and shift levers have a slotted hole at one end, and holes at the other, into which rubber pads with brass bushings are inserted. When installed on the splines of the control and shift levers, a deviation from the positions within 5 degrees in any direction is allowed.

This mechanism consists of two levers - control and switching, rotating in mutually perpendicular planes. Both levers are installed in a bracket that is attached to the cab. At the end of the long arm of the control lever there is a hole for connecting a rod, at the end of the short arm there is a fork, into which the lever enters. In the middle position, the lever is secured with a locking ball.

The shift lever is connected at one end to the rod, the other to the main shift lever by means of a forked lug with holes. The main lever is mounted on an axle screwed into the body of the shift lever. The axle is locked with a lock nut. The main shift lever pivot is protected from dust by a polyethylene seal that covers the opening in the cab air duct. The edges of the hole are sealed with foam rubber pressed with a steel clip.

The main lever first pivots laterally relative to the shift lever and then turns only with the shift lever, engaging the desired gear. A vertical link is attached to the control lever using a pin, a cotter pin, flat and spring washers. The shift lever is connected to the vertical rod by a pin and a cotter pin.

The lower ends of both rods are threaded to allow their length to be varied. To adjust the length of the rods, fingers locked with two nuts are put on their threaded ends. By unscrewing or tightening the nuts, it is possible to change the length of the rods without disassembling the connections.

The cylindrical parts of the square-headed pins are connected to the intermediate levers using cotter pins, flat washers and spring washers. The intermediate arm assembly is mounted on the second cross member of the vehicle frame. All intermediate levers are mounted on one axle: the upper intermediate control lever is knurled, the lower intermediate control lever is fixed with a radial pin, the intermediate shift lever is loosely on the bronze bushing. Holes are made in the axle for supplying grease.

Intermediate levers with gear levers are connected by horizontal rods, the opposite ends of which are connected to the gear levers by means of pins with square heads.

The lever in the cab can move in two planes - parallel to the vehicle axis and perpendicular to it. When this lever moves perpendicular to the vehicle axis, its lower end moves the control lever and, through the linkage system and intermediate levers, introduces the shift clutch into the desired position.

When the horizontal rod moves backward, the shift clutch is connected to the forks of the first and second gears, while moving forward - with the reverse fork.

When the lever moves in the cab in a direction parallel to the vehicle axis, the gear selected by the previous movement is changed. The control lever of the control mechanism remains stationary and only the shift lever rotates.

The control mechanism and the gearshift mechanism, after adjustment, must ensure the correct operation of the gearbox and the comfort of the driver. The adjustment procedure is as follows:

- Set the levers on the gearbox cover to neutral.
- When changing the length of the horizontal rods, set the intermediate levers so that their lower arms are directed vertically downward.
- Changing the length of the vertical control rod, set the mechanism control lever to the lock.
- Then select the length of the vertical shift rod so that the lever handle in the cab is in the middle position between the instrument panel and the hood.
- Tighten the link nuts securely.

By sequentially engaging the first gear and reverse gear, it is necessary to check the correctness of the drive adjustment. In these positions, the rods and intermediate levers must not rest against adjacent parts. The lever in the cab should not come close enough to the instrument panel or hood so as not to injure the driver's hands. The engagement of the gears in the gearbox must be complete, that is, the engagement rod must be on the latch.

Manufacturer: Autogur73

8 500 R

Curtain of the check point UAZ 452 and mod. new sample (joystick) "Autogur73"

Curtain rope of a new sample for UAZ 452, 3303, 3909 cars,
3741, 39626, 2206 and other modifications of the carriage layout.

Installed as on 4 st. Checkpoint, and at the 5th station. Checkpoint

The set includes:
1. Backstage
2. Mounting brackets
3. Casing
4. Handle
5. Rope AVT-2L-TT-085-01225-5 - 2 pcs. Rope length - 1.225 m

The model is available in 3 trim levels:
one.For non-elevated vehicles

2.for elevated vehicles (lift from 10 to 50mm)
3. For elevated vehicles (lift from 50 to 100 mm)

The mechanism is used to control the manual transmission of UAZ vehicles.
The mechanism is universal and suitable for installation on cars of all years
release and with a different type of engine, it is applicable for a 5-speed gearbox.
Completely replaces the old mechanism, is installed under the hood.
The gear arrangement remains the same. The basis is double-acting ropes.

1 Convenient location
2 Small moves
3 Clarity of inclusion
4 Great resource
5 No vibration
6 Modern appearance

Installation instructions

We are the manufacturer of this product! Buying it from us you save time and money!

For regular customers and wholesale buyers, cooperation with us is beneficial, thanks to the existing system of discounts, the program of which, you can find out from our managers.