Since the motor is most susceptible to loads, it is with it that most of the breakdowns of the cultivator are associated. The main symptom of a breakdown is a sharp loss of engine power. In this case, you need to check:
If the motor fails to start at all, experts advise checking its position. The fact is that if the motor is tilted in relation to the central axis, then it will need to be set to its original position and check the quality of attachment to the frame.
In addition, it is required to check the amount of fuel in the tank and blockages in the tank cap.
All cleaning procedures performed are aimed at restoring the uniformity of the carburetor float immersion. To do this, it is also necessary to eliminate the deformation of the bracket, by means of which the float is attached to the piston system.
The dive setting is done with both open and closed needle valves. Use a screwdriver to align the bracket. All manipulations must be clear and accurate.
Along with the elimination of deformation, it will also be necessary to adjust the valves of the cultivator.
To do this, check the tightness of each of them. Performing this procedure allows you to restore the functions of the carburetor and return the amount of fuel consumed by it to normal.
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The cultivator motor plays the most important role in the design of the machine. Often it will not start due to a malfunctioning fuel pump.
The pump serves to supply the fuel mixture to the carburetor at a certain point in the cycle. If no fuel is supplied, then the engine will not start. The pump is defective in the following cases:
If the fuel supply to the engine injectors is interrupted;
In case of fuel leakage as a result of mechanical wear;
The appearance of strange noises during operation.
To fix the damage, the pump should be disassembled and inspected. It is possible that the engine will not start on the cultivator due to dirt inside the pump. In this case, the device will need to be cleaned and reinstalled.
Good day! Since 2003 worked properly and without breakdowns, in 2014 the oil was changed once every 2 years (8 acres), in 2014 a friend filled it with a mixture of gasoline and oil (1:40), raised it a little and it seemed like everything, then the power dropped. The last time I started to start it - I can't pull the cord, as if it were interfering, I started it with an effort and went white smoke from the exhaust, the power dropped significantly. Outwardly, I diagnosed the valve rings for replacement. can be done in the service, but I want it myself, and I feel sorry for the money. disassembled, found no obvious damage, 1.in the combustion chamber - small metal residues of something 2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings 3.Longitudinal seizure marks on the bottom of the piston (closer to the connecting rod) 4. rings like whole
I would be glad to advice where to buy rings?
samart63, Add different pictures. Head from the inside, cylinder from above, insides. Such seizures on the piston skirt are obtained if any debris hangs in the engine oil, such as sand that got along with the oil or shavings formed from the operation of the gears, or when the bearing is worn out, or a collapsed part. Inspect all details carefully. And what are the balls in the chamber? Anything can form there or get out from under the valve, or a piece of the piston or part of the spark plug has broken off.
My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.
samart63 wrote: 2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings
Look at the top, bottom connecting rod heads? ?
Jesha, mastera, Good afternoon! Thank you for responding. I added a photo of the cylinder, scuffs, there are no steps, I found the damage, the only thing is that one of the two finger mounts in the piston is missing (maybe there is only one), the finger has 5-6 mm longitudinal movement in the piston, there is no backlash, the lower part of the connecting rod preparation without damage
samart63 wrote: I added a photo of the cylinder, scuffs, no steps, I found the damage, the only thing is that one of the two finger mounts in the piston is missing
There should be two retaining rings of the fingers. Apparently one burst and the engine could make those incomprehensible metal balls out of it. Pieces, as they decrease, could get into both the pan and the combustion chamber, especially they should be in the oil drainage ring. There are seizures on the cylinder (in the photo there is a red circle), you need to look at what height they rise. See also the head pad. In the place where the Green circle is in the photo. Something very red. Is the gasket burnt out there? From her, too, pieces could fall here and there. Judging by the soot on the piston, the rings must be carefully removed from the piston (remembering how they stood) and put into the cylinder, to see the gap. (photo) On the left you can see the print from the gasket, clean and even. Dry the valves, see the saddles. Not convenient, but necessary. I used a large pair of tweezers and two screwdrivers. Do not confuse tappets and valves.
My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.
samart63 wrote: Good day! Since 2003 worked properly and without breakdowns, in 2014 the oil was changed once every 2 years (8 acres), in 2014 a friend filled it with a mixture of gasoline and oil (1:40), raised it a little and it seemed like everything, then the power dropped. The last time I started to start it - I can't pull the cord, as if it were interfering, I started it with an effort and went white smoke from the exhaust, the power dropped significantly. Outwardly, I diagnosed the valve rings for replacement. can be done in the service, but I want it myself, and I feel sorry for the money. disassembled, found no obvious damage, 1.in the combustion chamber - small metal residues of something 2. there are metal balls on the piston, a little shavings 3.Longitudinal seizure marks on the bottom of the piston (closer to the connecting rod) 4. rings like whole
I would be glad to advice where to buy rings?
Do you have a BRIGS 2 tactician or what? What a tarpan - there is a photo, they have 4-stroke engines. Oil and gasoline are poured into 2-stroke cycles. And Briggs oil and gasoline separately. You know yourself. An acquaintance helped you, made a problem. Where do you live? This is yours -
Pa wrote: Do you have a BRIGS 2 tactician or what?
My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.
Jesha, what are saddles looking for?
Pa, Yes, 4-stroke tactician I live in Samara At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient. What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?
samart63 wrote: Pa, Yes, 4-stroke tactician I live in Samara At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient. What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?
I want to know, is the cast iron sleeve worth it? Search for spare parts by engine brand. I have Tarpan, he is very many years old, from whom he took it was reported that in order to kill this engine, you need to try very hard. If a mixture of gasoline and oil has been used while the engine is running, this is not good. A friend said he had a vibrator and he had similar things. Everything has changed and it works. I just add oil like 3 years, the power did not drop, I looked at the insides, everything shines like “a cat's yay-a”, the output is 0.
Look in MASTERCITY there is a topic about Briggs engines
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samart63 wrote: What is a decompressor or centrifugal regulator?
Decompressor - on the camshaft near the exhaust valve cam, opens the valve slightly at startup, automatically turns off when accelerating. CRO - here (my photo):
samart63 wrote: At the bottom of the sites, they answered me the following The typical death of engines of this brand is described. The rings and filling with the mixture have nothing to do with it, the decompressor or centrifugal regulator has collapsed. The repair is economically inexpedient.
Hopefully not in "reply-mail"? You can also ask on ForumHouse in the topic "Malfunctions of walk-behind tractors and motor-cultivators", many on this and that forum, but at the FH as a moderator, the person working in the service really helps a lot. There is also "Lunokhodov.net", there are also enough engines.
samart63 wrote: Jesha, what are saddles looking for?
Integrity and lapping of the valve.
My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.
Yes, the valve needs to be ground in! Who did that? And what is the sequence of the valve regulation procedure?
They rub in normally. The valve has slots (DM1), behind them, with the addition of lapping paste to the seat, with a screwdriver and with a clamp, we rotate the handles back and forth. Until an even print appears. Then, with a pencil, draw risks and control rotation. The risks should be wiped out all. We collect and check. In the photo, it turned out to be a wide track. But modern cones (from the Zhiguli the classics came up in size) could not cope with the Socialist saddle. The USSR rules.
My thoughts swarm only in my head. Oh, I'll take the swarm to the dacha, but for the weekend.
Jesha, From a neighboring forum, Valeric gave a sensible suggestion In general, the symptoms are when the cord is not pulled, that the walk-behind tractor was tilted and oil from the crankcase got into the combustion chamber. And of course white smoke is a product of its combustion. I hope you read the instructions that the walk-behind tractor cannot be tilted at an angle of more than 20 degrees Diagnosis one: Why the heck was opened? Well, since you have already opened, find the piston rings, new gaskets and change.
nbari wrote: Yes, the valve needs to be ground in! Who did that?
On YouTube there are a lot of videos on grinding valves in car engines, but the essence is the same.
nbari wrote: And what is the sequence of the valve regulation procedure?
Valve adjustment in the Honda GX 200 engine, as well as in similar engines (including Chinese ones). The order in which the valves are adjusted does not matter. Valve adjustment clearances. Intake valve (Intake) - 0.15 mm. Exhaust valve - 0.20 mm. 1. Unscrew the spark plug. 2. Remove the valve cover. 3. Adjust the piston to top dead center. (It can be determined by inserting, for example, an electrode or a long screwdriver into the candle hole, with all this, both valves should be closed, i.e. the rocker should not press on the valve.). 4. Adjust the inlet valve. We loosen the nuts that hold down the rocker arm. 5. Insert the dipstick (plate 0.15 mm thick) between the rocker arm and the valve stem (where the return spring is). 6. We bring the rocker arm to the dipstick, tighten the nuts. The dipstick should not go very tightly and not very loosely between the rocker arm and the stem. Items 4, 5, 6, we do the same with the exhaust valve. How to identify the inlet and outlet valve? If you look at the head from the front, then the inlet valve will be on the right, that is, there will be an exhaust valve on the left. The second option: on the carburetor side - inlet, on the exhaust side - outlet.
Motor-cultivator Tarpan can be attributed to the middle class, single-operation, having one speed. It is equipped with a B&S 6 hp engine. Adjustable cutter grip 35/70/100 cm. Worm gearbox and automatic centrifugal clutch are also installed. The weight of the walk-behind tractor is 45 kg. It does not provide reverse gear and power take-off.
Two wheels are installed for rolling the walk-behind tractor. And in order to regulate the depth of the cutter, a coulter is installed. The walk-behind tractor itself can be easily disassembled into two parts. The casters and handles are removable. This makes it easy to fit into the trunk of a car.
The main feature of Tarpan is a rather powerful engine, in comparison with other cultivators of this class. Unfortunately, the designers did not provide for a reverse gear, which is a big disadvantage. The worm gear of the gearbox was installed in a fairly robust housing.
Unfortunately, it does not have a reverse stroke due to the large gear ratio. When processing heavily planted areas, it is quite often necessary to pull out the cultivator in reverse. This usually occurs in places where a reversal is not possible.
In this case, the cutter does not turn back, it skips and unfolds what has just been loosened. It is for this reason that gearboxes with toothed wheels or with chain drives are installed in modern cultivators. If a worm gear is installed, then only with reverse gear.
Therefore, Tarpan is very convenient for the owners of open gardens, and for those who will prepare the soil for further processing and sowing. In this case, there is no great need for the convenience of controlling the walk-behind tractor in reverse gear.
The following design features of the cultivator are an automatic centrifugal clutch and a split "leg". This allows it to be disassembled into two parts and folded into the trunk of the car, which is a definite plus. On the other hand, due to this feature, the clutch "often flies out" when working with a hiller, plow, digger. If you use an automatic clutch, it has a large response inertia, which is unsafe.
To turn on the speed, to start the cutter, you need to turn the throttle lever. This will increase the RPM, after which the cutter begins to rotate. If it is necessary to stop the cutter urgently, the operator must remove the gas. This will not immediately turn off the cutter, and it will continue to run for a while. In this case, you need to use the "Stop" button.
Also, in the structure of the motor-cultivator, a new design of the steering bar is used, which allows it to be turned 360 degrees and to adjust the angle of inclination. This allows the operator to walk close to the cultivator and not on cut furrows or loosened soil.
If you install additional equipment on the Tarpan motor-cultivator, then it will be able to weed, huddle, harrow, loosen, mill, etc.
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Vladimir, a resident of Belgorod, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at his summer cottage:
I have been using Tarpan for 9 years. The positive overall experience is primarily due to the engine. Advantages of a motor-cultivator: it always starts from a half-turn; since there is a four-stroke engine, there is no need to oil the oil, just poured gasoline and change it a few times a year; easily fits into the trunk of any car, because it can be disassembled into two halves. Disadvantages of Tarpan: the gas is made very inconveniently - under the thumb of the right hand. He gets tired quickly.
Feedback from Sergey, a resident of Omsk, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator on his site:
With its light weight (48 kg) and "monstrous" excess power, it is difficult to take the virgin soil. If you first use a tractor plow that will break the roots, the lumps will be dealt with quickly and easily. Due to the peculiarity of the design, the reverse is not installed. But with its light weight, it can be deployed manually without any problems. I saw how a cart was dragged with a converted Tarpan. The plow does not pull because it is lightweight. And at the same time, it perfectly cuts the beds with a hiller on cutters. Excellent material from which the cutters were made.
Review of Andrey Ivanovich, a resident of Rostov, uses the Tarpan motor-cultivator in a greenhouse:
I sharpened them once after buying them, and never touched them again. Basically I use a hiller and cutters - I will cut the beds, plow and that's it. Needed is negligible gasoline: a 1.5-liter tank is enough for an hour of operation. The first time I took off the cutter cover, because it only got in the way, because a lot of grass is wound around the cutters. I also hung a 20 kg weight in front, thanks to which the virgin soil was taken much better. But she dangled in front and rocked the cultivator.
In general, if used for summer cottage work with a minimum of settings and hemorrhoids, this is quite a convenient thing. Also, do not forget that, first of all, the task of the cultivator is to loosen the soil, which he does just fine. Therefore, only cutters are included with it.
Feedback from Roman Viktorovich, a resident of Kharkov, uses the Tarpan Motor-Cultivator at the dacha:
I have been working with Tarpan since 2004. Very satisfied.If, when working on heavy ground, he begins to jump and tries to run away, then first you need to remove and sharpen the knives. It is advisable to attach a load. Made a load of lead (melted old batteries). The result is a weight of 13 kg, has a compact volume and allows you to work perfectly. Also can be made in the form of several plates to adjust the weight. I use the load for digging trenches, virgin lands and primary plowing. Then I shoot and it works great.
Alexey, a resident of Kharkov, uses Tarpan on his personal plot:
Recently acquired by Tarpan. Yesterday I went through the garden with cutters. Feeling: the engine runs vibration-free and quiet; the cultivator is a little light, sometimes it jumps; perfectly cultivated the second time when turned the horns, no trace left. Processed seven acres. It took two hours and three liters of gasoline.
Vladimir Ivanovich, a resident of Belgorod, uses a motor-cultivator in the country:
The load on the back and arms is acceptable. In addition to milling cutters, I did not test attachments. The cutters have to be cleaned because they wind up the roots a lot. But I think that this is a plus, since weeds are removed from the garden. If the cutters are sharp, it will chop up the roots, after which weeds will multiply.
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For its manufacture of the plow for the Tarpan motor-cultivator, high-strength special steel was used to withstand heavy loads. Its purpose is to plow the soil with a set of lugs, thanks to which the required tractive effort is created.
Video (click to play).
The use of a plow is possible for the initial tillage. To loosen large clods of soil, cultivation is necessary.