DIY car body repair

In detail: do-it-yourself car body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The body of a modern car is a complex structure that performs many important functions. Its renovation is the other side of the coin of importance and functionality. It is complex and time consuming.

Conditionally body repair can be divided into two stages. The first is the restoration of the body geometry, the elimination of dents, the replacement of irreparable elements. The second is body painting.

Particular attention should be paid to restoring the geometry and rigidity of the hidden underbody. It is these elements that are responsible for the safety and driving characteristics of the vehicle. All suspension elements are attached to it.

We offer

It is difficult to connect body elements by electronic welding, but real. Moreover, the quality of such a connection is very low.

If the metal is not allowed to cool during welding, then the body may move, which will have to be additionally putty. Moreover, such defects cannot always be corrected with putty.

The first step is to replace the doors, then the fenders and sills are exposed. This is the only way to avoid the formation of gaps.

This often happens if one body part is painted without a smooth transition to another. Even if the paint is matched exactly to the original, the old paint on the body has a change in hue, which is associated with fading in the sun and other environmental factors.

Video (click to play).

They appear with poor-quality car putty and its insufficient drying. Usually they appear after repairs, when the car is in the sun. Usually it is necessary to re-polish the putty after that.

This is the relief of the applied paint. After painting, there is usually shagreen on the body, but it is removed by polishing. But sometimes there is one that cannot be removed by polishing. Usually the defect occurs when the paint is not applied correctly, at a high temperature in the chamber, or viscous paint.

Usually occurs if the car is not painted in a special chamber. But when painting in a dirty chamber, it also has a place to be.

Deepenings from the penetration of silicone, which had to be cut off with a special knife.

Appears if you work with a grinder at high speed or grind the same place for too long, not allowing the varnish to cool.

If the welds are poorly cleaned and primed, then rust can appear in these places, which manifests itself through the paintwork.

By doing car body repair in particular, welding work, then for welding you need to use a semiautomatic device or argon welding. With the help of such welding, metal up to 1 mm thick is cooked and the possibility of burning through the body elements is excluded.

Body damage can be light, medium, or severe. Straightening usually does not require special skills and, using professional tools and materials, everyone will be able to do it. Only certain difficulties and the need for skills can arise during straightening work after medium to complex damage to the body.

You need to paint the car with fresh paint. The primer will help you identify irregularities and putty them with a finishing filler. It is possible to paint only after the putty and primer are completely dry.

Use a special spray gun for painting. The paint should dry in the special conditions of the camera without direct sunlight.Polishing is permissible only after the paintwork is completely dry.

Many of us would like to engage in body repair, but we do not dare for reasons: “it’s difficult”, “it is expensive”, “screw it up”, “I don’t know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not expensive at all. Let's figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.

Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting of the damaged site is already necessary.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

Painting can be of two types: partial painting of the car (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).

Local car painting it is necessary in those cases when it is necessary to restore only a certain part of the body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.
Painting the entire part as a whole done only when necessary if the scratches or dents are deep and take up a large area on the car body parts.

All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing to think about is spray paint. And then the question arises:

Answer: Of course you can paint, but you cannot paint with high quality. Why ?

Firstly, the spray can has an uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint a car with high quality. In addition, the ink jet is too strong, so it is easy to get ink smudges as a result.

Secondly, it is very rare to get into the color from a spray can, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time. Let's say you were able to pick the color as accurately as possible, paint it, and the result suits you completely. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from weathering and can be easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can completely forget about normal polishing.

It is important to remember that painting a car must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be spots, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.

Thus, if we are talking about painting from a spray can, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics.
But if you are still in the mood for such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and do at least 3 layers. Spray paint video can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but forget about full spray painting of the car.

Now, let's analyze how to paint a car with high quality at home:

To apply a high-quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), a spray gun (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the whole machine with paper or foil. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it remains there forever.We degrease the surface well and apply in a couple of layers.

We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the ground to the touch is perfectly smooth and even with the body, the preparation process for painting can be considered complete.

Remember that a correctly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!

High quality paint the car is possible only if it works choose the right color... The paint should match perfectly with the previous coating. It is best to contact a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.

Before painting, you need to decide exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. It is imperative to remove all gloss from the wing (mat). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or a special scotch-bright sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). We degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky napkin to remove small specks.
Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, it is recommended to nail down the dust with a water spray before painting.

Car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light-colored paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the primer.
So, first coat of paint spreads out onto the ground, overlapping it and the wing itself a little.
Second layer apply in a minute and in another minute third, basic. Air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure during painting will not lead to anything good.
After the third layer we get a matte painted wing:

At room temperature, the paint dries for about 15 minutes. If, after drying, irregularities come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. You cannot touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply wipe off the paint.

Further detail you need varnish... It is recommended to gently walk again with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand. It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
You can varnish at will, either while the paint is not completely dry, or wait for final drying.

First coat of varnish (base) should be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part.
Second coat of varnish (main) we apply after 2 minutes exposure, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.

If dust got under the varnish, then polishing will help to correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!

Car painting cost, and in particular the wing that was discussed in the photo report, is:

Emery - 100 rubles;
Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
Putty - 50 rubles;
Primer - 70 rubles;
Paint - 300 rubles;
Varnish - 200 rubles;

Total 900 rubles.

The main problem with silver shades is the so-called apple-like effect, where the paint is blotting. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is overlapped with another, the shade changes and as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last layer of paint, the painter increases the air flow in the spray gun and applies the last layer of paint using the spray method, observing that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.

After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (base) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color in places looks like black. The reason is an insufficiently painted surface.

If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.

Varnish smudges can occur due to too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.

Do-it-yourself car body repair and hWhat will be required to carry out a full-fledged activity?

In order not to be distracted during work by searching for the necessary parts or tools, the following sets should be purchased in advance:

- Hydraulic set for straightening damaged areas of the car body;

- Platform slipway. With the help of this equipment, it becomes possible to restore the frame and body geometry. Thus, the presented equipment makes it possible to bring the shape of the body up to standard indicators by means of multidirectional efforts;

- To remove dents, you need a quick extraction system;

- Reverse, straightening and gentle hammers are required as additional tools;

- Welding machine. By welding, patches are created, cracks are removed and metal elements are connected. A better quality apparatus is able to create less thick seams, while without loss in strength;

- A device that allows you to eliminate defective areas of plastic parts. A good example is the bumper, which will cost a lot to replace compared to repairs. In addition, one of the most common problems with a bumper is cracks, which can be easily repaired with this device;

- Set for straightening the damaged area. The principle of operation is to glue the device to a concave surface. Further, with the help of a lever, the process itself is carried out.

- After the necessary manipulations, the device is peeled off using a specialized hair dryer.

The car should be painted only with the prescribed car paints. Their functionality is much higher than that of conventional paints, they are less susceptible to the destructive effects of acids, alkalis and other strong substances. It also provides protection against rust, keeping the original appearance for a long time.

- Thorough washing of the body surface. Thus, the possibility of a more detailed inspection for damage and determination of the scale of work is provided;

- Next, the surface must be treated with a degreasing agent;

- Dismantle small elements of the car;

- Carry out cleaning of the body, removing rust, using a grinder or sandpaper. For better removal of traces of corrosion, special nozzles are used that do not damage the metal. The method using chemicals in body stripping has low popularity.

In the case of perforating corrosion, metal recovery is possible. If the hole is not very large, then it can be closed with a metal patch. You will need a piece of metal slightly larger than the diameter of the hole. Using a rust converter, this piece must be soldered.

Next, it is necessary to irradiate the outer side of the patch along the perimeter. The connecting weld must be continuous. Having achieved the desired result, you may face a new problem. The soldered piece may protrude above the base surface. To neutralize it, you must use a hammer.

After this, a small fossa is formed. It is easiest to remove with a regular putty. Before applying the putty, the metal area is cleaned, slightly going beyond the patch. Then degrease the surface. To prolong the life of the metal structure, a primer is applied before the paint is applied. This will allow you to avoid premature destructive processes in the form of corrosion, you can read about the measures of protection and prevention here.

- Acidic. This type of primer is quite liquid, therefore, drying is carried out in a very short time period. It should be applied in a thin layer. After waiting a quarter of an hour, the next layer is applied;

- Acrylic. This type of primer is distributed as an aerosol. Its application is carried out in stages, in two layers. After applying the first layer, you must wait 10 minutes for the composition to dry.Then the second is applied.

It takes about 3 hours for the final result to dry completely. After that, you can putty the surface. To obtain the final result, you must use a fine grain sandpaper.

Having done all the manipulations, the question of excess metal remains unresolved. Experienced businessmen solve this issue very simply. For this they need a special apparatus. The area of the metal that has been stretched is heated and cooled. As a result, the bubbles disappear. In general, the event is not particularly difficult, but it requires equipment that is quite expensive.

Sometimes damage is not accompanied by the destruction of the paint layer. Small dents appear as a result of hail, icicles and other factors of influence. In this case, a new coat of paint is not required. This technique is quite common because it has been around for a long time.

By means of special mechanisms, a concentric effect is carried out on the damaged area, from the reverse side. But even if there is no way to manipulate from the inside, the work can be done from the outside. To do this, a lever is glued to the dent. The metal is straightened. Further, the lever is peeled off without causing damage to the paintwork. The technology is distinguished by a high speed of work, while the financial costs are quite low.

If the body of your car has through holes formed by metal corrosion, and you do not want to pay 4000-5000 rubles or more for the repair of 1 part, you can try to repair it yourself.

It is not difficult to do this on your own, and the stages of repairing the parts are described in order with a photo review:

1) Take newspapers, and using masking tape, and cover the part of the part that is not planned to be repaired. This is done in order to protect the car body from rusting during stripping.

2) Using a metal brush, abrasive paper (grain 120), remove rust on the parts, and also clean the paint in the area adjacent to the through hole by 1.5-2 cm.

3) Prepare a piece of sheet metal, and cut with metal scissors to size. If you manage to pick up a piece of metal with a corrugated surface on one side, this will be a big plus.

4) Secure the cut-out piece of metal to the inside of the part. There are several ways to do this:

- If there is access to the inside of the part, it can be welded using spot welding.

- If there is no access, you can use foam and special glue. To do this, by singing a hole inside the part and applying a suitable glue to the embedded piece of metal.

(The last way is not entirely correctsince polyurethane foam can corrode a part from the inside, and it is somehow wrong to glue a piece of metal onto glue, so we use this option in exceptional cases, if the car is not a pity).

5) Prepare automotive putty with hardener and dilute according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After dilution with hardener, the putty is suitable for work within 2-3 minutes.

6) Apply the first layer of putty to the area to be repaired. Let the putty dry.

7) Dilute the filler with hardener again and apply a second layer of filler to the area to be repaired. Let the putty dry.

8) Dilute the filler with hardener again and apply a finishing coat of filler to the area to be repaired. When applying a finishing layer. try not to leave streaks or streaks.

9) Using sanding paper (grit 800 or 100) soaked in water - sand the area to be repaired. If defects are found on the filler: scratches, dimples, etc., apply a layer of filler again, on the part to be repaired and, after drying, repeat sanding.

10) Again we take newspapers and masking tape, and we protect the part of the car that is not being repaired. Apply a primer.

11) After the primer has dried, proceed to paint. The paint is applied in 2 layers with drying between stages in 30 minutes.

12) After painting, remove masking tape and newspapers from the part being repaired.

Carrying out body repairs on your own in a garage is not easy, since this procedure includes several stages, each of which requires a specialized tool and knowledge of new technologies for body repair. However, this task is not impossible. This section contains many recommendations for performing various types of bodywork with a photo of the main stages. For beginners or inexperienced car enthusiasts, video lessons in car body repair may be useful.

Having learned about the techniques and modern technologies of car body repair in garage conditions, you can not only choose the right body part, but also install it on the car, eliminate the center of corrosion, straighten the door, fender or hood with your own hands, remove a small dent on the car, right install thresholds and even do welding bodywork with your own hands.

Independent body work, depending on the defects, can be divided into several types:

complex body repair;
minor or local repairs;
do-it-yourself body polishing and painting.

Complex do-it-yourself car body repair includes such steps as body straightening, straightening medium and large dents, replacing body elements, welding the body with a semiautomatic device, restoring the geometry of the car. The best presentation of these works is given by a video of car body repair.

Small do-it-yourself car body repairs include removing small dents without painting, repairing paintwork chips, removing scratches on a car, repairing corroded parts of the body.

During operation, the car is constantly exposed to the environment. Rain, hail, solar radiation, snow, wind, stones - all this negatively affects the quality of the paintwork. As a result, defects are formed on the body. If they are not removed in time, they can become hotbeds of corrosion. It is in this case that minor repairs of the car body will be needed.

Small self-repair of a car body is advisable if the warranty period for servicing the car has been exhausted. It does not require expensive tools or equipment, a set that is in every garage is enough: an angle grinder, a spatula, sponges.

Local car body repair is aimed at removing scratches, chips, corrosion centers, repairing small dents without painting. There are many videos on the Web that demonstrate these processes quite clearly. Small body repair technologies for Mercedes, Nissan, Gazelle or Niva are not much different.

Most often, local body repair is reduced to repairing chips or scratches. They are removed by filling. No specialized skills are required for this process. First, the defective place of the car must be thoroughly washed with soap or car shampoo. Then the scratch or chip is degreased with White Spirit, you can also use gasoline for this.

Then the putty can be applied using a soft spatula. You can also apply it with your finger. It is necessary to use a special putty designed for bodywork. Watch the video below on how the filling process is performed correctly.

Drying ambassadors The putty damaged area should be sanded with fine-grained emery paper, dust residues should be removed, primed and painted locally.

The reason for the need for a complete body repair is most often one - it is a serious accident. In this case, the following defects may be observed:

serious damage to the body;
changing the geometry of the body;
deformation of the subframe.

In the service station, for complex body repair of such damage, professional equipment is used: slipways, automated computer installations. Thanks to them, you don't have to worry about how to make a complete replacement of the car body or fix a huge dent. When deformation of hard-to-reach places, such as the bottom, the machine is most often overturned. Inexperienced motorists will be helped by a video of how the body repair of a shape-shifter is done in auto repair shops, how to correct the body or restore the body geometry.

Nevertheless, if you have at least the basic skills of straightening and welding, complex bodywork can be done with your own hands. The approach to work is monotonous and does not depend on the make of the car, regardless of whether you need a Gazelle body repair with your own hands or a UAZ Loaf body repair. The main thing to remember is that the technology of restoring the body geometry with your own hands must be followed at all stages of the repair.

Now craftsmen are even posting videos on how to restore the body geometry with their own hands using a homemade slipway. This device allows multidirectional forces to be applied to the body elements, thereby effectively eliminating the consequences of side impacts. In fact, only part of the slipway is easy to make with your own hands - this is the frame. You still have to buy a hydraulic unit.

Preparation for painting. The body is cleaned of traces of old paint, surface irregularities are filled with putty, then the surface is sanded and primer is applied.

Car painting. This is the final step in any body repair. It is done with your own hands only in well-lit rooms so that all defects are visible. For work, you will need a spray gun. If not a complete repainting of the body is carried out, but a local painting of the wing or hood, the rest of the body will have to be tightly covered with a film.

The bodies of modern cars are mostly made of galvanized metal, which prevents corrosion from developing, although with deep chips the zinc layer can also be damaged. How to check if the body is galvanized? It's very simple, just look at the passport data of the car or carefully scrape off the paint from some unobtrusive place in the body, not forgetting to seal it up later.

In the process of work, it is necessary to use protective equipment for eyes and hands: glasses, rubber gloves, so as not to be exposed to the risk of chemicals getting on the body.

So, if the body is completely damaged by rust or it appears in many places, the first step is to wash the car well with car shampoo.

After the car has dried, all problem areas must be treated with a coarse-grained sandpaper or a brush with metal bristles should be used for this. The use of an angle grinder is not recommended as the grinding discs remove the rough metal layer. For this procedure, only discs with a plastic sole are suitable. You can also plant the abrasive wheel shown in the photo on the drill.

You can also use a rust converter to repair a rusty car body. It must be applied to all defective areas, and after a few hours, rinse off with a stream of water or a wet rag.

Further, a primer is applied to the surface of the car, cleaned from corrosion, after which the irregularities are sealed with putty. After sanding the dried filler, the surface can be painted.

If a hole has formed in a body element, putty cannot be dispensed with. The easiest way to do such a body repair on your own is to install a patch. Naturally, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 cm, if the hole is larger, it will most likely require a complete replacement of the body element.

How to repair a leaky car body? First of all, the place of damage on the body must be thoroughly washed and cleaned of rust.Next, you need to cut out a patch of slightly larger diameter than the hole, from thin metal, for example from a tin can.

Then, using a powerful soldering iron, you need to tin the surface from the outside of the hole and the edge of the patch with tin. Phosphoric acid or a rust converter based on it can be used as a flux.

At the end, the patch must be soldered to the hole with a continuous seam, after which the patch must be hammered (drown). Clean the protruding edges of the patch with coarse sandpaper. Then the defective place is putty, primed and prepared for painting.

It is also possible to weld the patch to the body with a continuous seam, but this will require a welding machine and skills in working with it.

So historical it has become a tradition that VAZ cars are the most common in the post-Soviet space. Therefore, it is worth talking about the weak points of their body and the most common breakdowns.

Body repair of "kopeck" and other early VAZ models (2101, 21011, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105) is most often caused by the considerable age of these cars. For several decades of their operation, corrosion of body elements is inevitable, and if they have not yet had to be completely changed, then remove local rust for sure. The fenders, the bottom and the luggage compartment, which have probably been digested more than once, are very vulnerable places.

Body repair of the VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2107 most often consists in eliminating the corrosion of the wings, the bottom under the front seats, sills and the luggage compartment, especially if during the operation of the car wheel arches were not installed and the drainage holes were not cleaned. It is necessary to start by removing rust, it is necessary to sand these places with sandpaper or treat with a rust converter. Holes are closed by welding or patching. Straightening is performed if necessary. Prepared defective spots are putty with mastic with a special anti-corrosion compound. Then the problem areas are rubbed with sandpaper and degreased with a silicone remover. Corroded areas can be additionally treated with a putty / hardener mixture to level the surface of the body element. You can prepare for painting. The body repair of the VAZ 2107, aimed at eliminating corrosion, is over. Numerous videos of the body repair of the VAZ 2107 clearly demonstrate the stages of the work being carried out.

Do-it-yourself Niva body repair difficulties lie in the peculiarities of its operation. The bottom of the car is most susceptible to corrosion, and through holes can form in the absence of control for a long time. Another weak point of the VAZ 2121 is the spars - under difficult operating conditions, they tend to crack. In addition to cracks, the side members are also highly susceptible to corrosion. Reinforcement of the floor and side members should be carried out with sheet metal at least 3-4 mm thick. We advise you to watch a video of Niva 2121 body repair with your own hands in order to navigate the sequence of stages of work.

Do-it-yourself Oka body repair very often comes down to the need to replace thresholds, the strength of which does not stand up to criticism. It is also necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the bottom and arches, which are most susceptible to corrosive processes.

Do-it-yourself 2109 body repair may be necessary for several reasons, depending on the operating conditions and the degree of damage. Local repairs may involve removing chips and scratches. If it is necessary to correct the geometry of the body, it will be necessary to carry out polishing and painting work. In terms of the spread of corrosion, the wings and sills are considered weak points, and very often the body repair of the VAZ 2109 is aimed at eliminating their defects.

Video (click to play).

Most often, the wheel arches are subjected to body repairs for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2115. These places are very susceptible to rot, so they are simply replaced.Since you need to crawl into these hard-to-reach places by welding, you will have to completely disassemble the interior of the car, up to removing the trim, so that there are no flammable substances left. Also, quite often, do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2110 consists in replacing the bottom and sills. This work is very painstaking, so you should first watch the video of the VAZ 2010 body repair.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 82