Now the state of the new, or rather the updated, body should be brought to perfection, provide the necessary high level of protection against corrosion, destructive rust, gravel and other troubles. To do this, perform several sequential operations:
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Strip the metal by removing the scale, achieving a gloss;
Lubricate surfaces with a joint compound;
Treat metal elements with a primer;
Apply a coat of paint to match the body color;
Outside, treat the bottom with mastic and anti-gravel composition;
Measure carefully, and then cut out the sheet soundproofing with scissors. It is heated with an industrial hair dryer and placed on the bottom. This is when it comes to bituminous noise.
Now the work on repairing the underbody of your car is approaching its logical conclusion. However, a difficult, crucial stage of reassembly awaits you ahead. Therefore, we strongly do not recommend relaxing.
If you correctly disassemble the passenger compartment and dismantle the bottom elements, there should be no problems with their assembly. We advise you to prescribe each stage, record on video, sign each bag with fasteners.
As you can see, it is quite possible to repair the bottom yourself. Just do not work at random, without prior preparation and appropriate tools. This is a good way to save money, but in the absence of experience and skills, it is better to contact specialized service stations with similar problems.
Many of us would like to engage in body repair, but we do not dare for reasons: “it’s difficult”, “it is expensive”, “screw it up”, “I don’t know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not expensive at all. Let's figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.
Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting of the damaged site is already necessary.
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Painting can be of two types: partial painting of the car (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).
Local car painting it is necessary in those cases when it is necessary to restore only a certain part of the body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.Painting the entire part as a whole done only when necessary if the scratches or dents are deep and take up a large area on the car body parts.
All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing to think about is spray paint. And then the question arises:
Answer: Of course you can paint, but you cannot paint with high quality. Why ?
Firstly, the spray can has an uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint a car with high quality. In addition, the ink jet is too strong, so it is easy to get ink smudges as a result.
It is important to remember that painting a car must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
Thus, if we are talking about painting from a spray can, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics. Spray paint video can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but forget about full spray painting of the car.
Now, let's analyze how to paint a car with high quality at home :
To apply a high-quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), a spray gun (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the whole machine with paper or foil. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it remains there forever. We degrease the surface well and apply in a couple of layers.
Remember that a correctly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!
High quality paint the car is possible only if it works choose the right color ... The paint should match perfectly with the previous coating. It is best to contact a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.
Before painting, you need to decide exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. It is imperative to remove all gloss from the wing (mat). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or a special scotch-bright sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). We degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky napkin to remove small specks.
Car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light-colored paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the primer. first coat of paint spreads out onto the ground, overlapping it and the wing itself a little. Second layer apply in a minute and in another minute third , basic. Air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure during painting will not lead to anything good.
Further detail you need varnish ... It is recommended to once again gently walk with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand.It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
First coat of varnish (base) should be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part. Second coat of varnish (main) we apply after 2 minutes exposure, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.
dust got under the varnish , then polishing will help to correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!
Car painting cost , and in particular the wing that was discussed in the photo report, is:
Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
Putty - 50 rubles;
Primer - 70 rubles;
Paint - 300 rubles;
Varnish - 200 rubles;
Total 900 rubles.
The main problem with silver shades is the so-called apple-like effect, where the paint is blotting. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is overlapped with another, the shade changes and as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last layer of paint, the painter increases the air flow in the spray gun and applies the last layer of paint using the spray method, observing that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.
After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (base) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color in places looks like black. The reason is an insufficiently painted surface.
If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.
Varnish smudges can be caused by too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.
How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.
Video of painting a car in a garage :
Video painting a car by a professional :
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In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.
The condition of the vehicle is highly dependent on the bodywork. The suspension can be "bored" by replacing worn out and faulty parts. Attachments are also repaired or replaced at the engine, in severe cases a major overhaul or complete replacement is done. Bodywork determines the appearance of the car and, in many respects, its service life.
The first copies of the tenth family had a characteristic feature - the paintwork on the windshield frame at the top peeled off, starting from under the seal. Then this disease was overcome by changing the technology, but the weak points remained.
Already on five-seven-year-old cars, the appearance of corrosion on the thresholds is very likely, and ten-year cars without fail require control of the bottom, arches, side members.
Accelerate the appearance of rust and perforating corrosion, damage in an accident followed by incomplete or unqualified repairs, severe operating conditions on bad roads in winter and in bad weather, storage in high humidity conditions.
Regular anti-corrosion treatment performed in the service or with your own hands will help prolong the life of body parts, especially for the hidden cavities of sills and side members, this power "skeleton" of a car.
The bottom corrodes on both sides. From below it is attacked by mud and water from the road. If the anti-gravel coating is violated, the first foci appear literally in a year, after 2–3 years, with intensive operation, corrosion becomes through.
In the cabin, there is a carpet on the floor, under which there are layers of vibration-insulating and sound-absorbing materials. If water or snow gets into the bottom trough, for example, from shoes, the coating gets wet and dries poorly. Increased constant humidity leads to corrosion of the underbody from the inside of the passenger compartment and the need for repairs. To prevent this, use rubber mats with bumpers, make sure that no water gets into the passenger compartment during rain and washing.
A rotten bottom is revealed when viewed from below, under a layer of putty or anti-gravel, holes may be visually invisible, but light hammer blows or pricks with an awl will immediately show a defect. Corrosion is most common along the sills and at the feet of the driver and front passenger.
In the cabin, the poor condition of the bottom will be indicated by the flexing of the floor under the feet under load, in extreme cases, a breakdown or inability to fix the driver's seat. And, of course, a common situation when, when the car is lifted on a jack, special thrust pads under the jack break down due to corrosion.
Repair of the bottom can be done by hand, but this requires a good tool, a suitable room, free time, skills and desire.
When working with metal, welding is indispensable. It is optimal to use a semiautomatic welding machine with wire and carbon dioxide, in comparison with gas and electrodes, it is much easier, more convenient and of better quality. An angle grinder is needed when removing rotten floor fragments, for adjusting parts and patches during welding, for cleaning seams and surfaces before processing and assembly.
You also need car stands, for example, four pieces of the "rhombus" type. The rest of the tool is standard and more common. Of the materials, you will need welding wire, seam mastic, anticorrosive, sandpaper, primer, paint, soundproof sheets.
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For repairs, the car is driven into the room and installed on stands. It should be possible to work comfortably and safely from below under the bottom. The battery and electronic control unit are disconnected to prevent damage during welding. The doors are removed, to maintain the rigidity and geometry of the body, spacers in the doorways are very desirable.
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The next stage will be long and responsible - the dismantling of the cabin. Here it is necessary to dismantle the seats, remove the lining of the floor tunnel, air ducts, remove the carpet, take away the wiring harnesses, scrape off or beat off the "Shumka". If it becomes necessary to change the bottom entirely or weld on the floor panel, then the torpedo and beard must be removed - access must be open to the engine shield. All fasteners are recommended to be carefully assembled, packaged and signed to facilitate assembly work.
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When the floor is fully visible, you can decide on the amount of repair. In the best case, you can do without replacing parts. All centers of corrosion must be thoroughly cleaned up to "healthy" metal, if necessary, reinforced with patches. But usually this option is unlikely.
If there are through holes or loss of rigidity, the corresponding body part must be replaced.In the VAZ models of the tenth family, the body floor consists of:
floor panels;
threshold extensions;
front spar extensions;
support sites;
connectors;
crossbars.
For replacement, the old part is drilled out along the welding points or cut off with a grinder. Remember that the fuel and brake lines run outside under the underbody on the driver's side. Dismantling them on similar machines is problematic, it is easier to cut them off, and replace them with new ones during installation.
If the floor panel of the VAZ 2110 is completely in poor condition, then the bottom is changed entirely as an assembly, in which case it will be necessary to additionally dismantle the exhaust system. If at the same time it is necessary to replace the thresholds, then they are changed alternately one by one with the geometry control, and only then the floor is overcooked.
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Marking, cutting out the old, fitting a new one require attention and accuracy, and the welding itself is also an assistant. The bottom is wound up from below, grabbed, the main welding is done not with a continuous seam, but with a step of 4-5 cm.
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After finishing welding, the seams must be protected from corrosion.
The metal is cleaned from scale to shine, coated with suture mastic. All surfaces are primed, then painted in the main color, without paint selection. The choice of quality materials and the meticulous workmanship will guarantee successful corrosion resistance.
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Outside, a layer of mastic and an anti-gravel coating are applied. From the inside, adjusting the size with scissors and heating the bitumen layer with an industrial hair dryer, sheet sound insulation is glued.
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Now it remains to assemble the salon using the fasteners prepackaged and signed during disassembly.
Most motorists are quite capable of repairing or replacing the bottom with their own hands. If you want to save money, feel confident in yourself, learn new necessary skills, or maybe chat with friends in the garage and take a break from family worries, then go for it. Do-it-yourself car repair is necessary, useful, affordable.
Comparatively low prices for spare parts.
High quality aerodynamics.
Galvanized metal body.
Soft suspension.
Do-it-yourself service and repair of the VAZ 2110 are affordable and inexpensive. Buyers are also interested in the relatively low fuel consumption. The car is presented with a five-seater saloon with a front engine in the car, the drive is located on the front wheels. The body has a supporting structure of an all-metal welded type.
Important repair stages are scheduled repair (MOT) and seasonal. Mandatory car maintenance includes diagnostics, repairs and adjustments. There is a simple, not laborious work that you can easily do yourself. Difficult work will require additional equipment and a good tool. If the machine is operated in particularly harsh conditions, experts recommend reducing the mileage for routine maintenance to 5,000 km. Routine auto repair includes:
replacement of used oil;
replacement of filters (oil, fuel, air);
engine diagnostics with inspection of the brake system;
replacement of steering mechanisms with a running gear.
If necessary, after inspecting a VAZ 2110 car, it is made:
work on cleaning nozzles;
economizer adjustment;
replacement of brake pads;
wheel camber adjustment;
replacement of brake cylinders with hoses;
replacement of shock absorbers.
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The repair and operation of the VAZ must be carried out in strict accordance with the rules. Seasonal inspection is done every six months. The repairman is not limited to changing tires on a car in season. Repair of a VAZ can be carried out both in showrooms by qualified specialists and on our own.Based on work experience, year of manufacture and the condition of the machine, the foreman can easily tell about the approximate mileage before the subsequent repair.
For the production of an ordinary simple repair of the VAZ 2110 on your own, you need to have a minimum of tools. The repair includes the following operations.
Topping up the used fluid (brake, coolant, for washing the outside windows) or new oil into the engine.
Headlight adjustment.
Replacing filters.
Replacing the brake pads
Recharging batteries, replacing sensors, checking tire pressure.
For normal repairs, you will need a viewing ditch (pit) and a special lift. To carry out complex repairs, where it is necessary to replace parts of all pendants, you will have to invite competent and physically trained assistants. You need to work with a professional tool. The most labor-consuming and costly are considered capital repairs of the body and engine.
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Experts do not recommend performing these works in artisanal conditions. This is especially true for those who do not have practical skills, the necessary special equipment and the necessary tools. It can be impossible to eliminate the consequences of incorrectly and unprofessionally performed overhaul work on the engine; often it is necessary to change it completely.
Body parts for VAZ 2110 or just iron are of interest to many owners of this car today. Parts are used to replace the deformed and damaged components of the "tens" body. As a rule, original spare parts are manufactured at the factory, according to classical instructions and rules, and then delivered to car dealerships. In some cases, to save money, owners buy parts from organizations that use the disassembly method. From the article, the reader will learn how to replace the main body parts of the "dozen".
First, let's take a look at the dozens' body layout. The photo below the table clearly shows all the body parts of the VAZ 2110.
This body part of the "tens" is called a TV. Replacement of an element is carried out in the event of a strong impact from the front, when the “native” part is easier to replace than to repair.
As a rule, in an accident with a frontal impact, the upper frame and the beam, which carries the function of reinforcing the bumper, are most deformed. But the TV is changing in its entirety anyway.
According to experts, it is much easier to replace a TV set on the “ten” than on the “nine” or other models that were previously released by AvtoVAZ. This is due to the simplicity of the design of the "ten" radiator frame.
Note. In some cases, the top frame and bottom rail can be found separately on the market.
The TV is mounted on the body using welding points. They are located in 4 places - the radiator frame is attached in the places where it is connected to the wing amplifiers ("arrows") and to the side members. To dismantle the TV, it will be enough to drill out the points in these places, and then cut it down with a sharp chisel.
Advice. In the process of removing the TV, it is possible to dismantle the radiator itself, only in this case you must remember to disconnect the radiator pipes.
After the new radiator frame is put in place, the welding places will need to be thoroughly cleaned with an emery wheel and putty. In places of contact between the frame and the body, sealant must be applied.
On the top ten, the front fender is dismantled for repair or replacement, as is the radiator frame. Here are the instructions to follow when replacing:
The battery is de-energized by disconnecting the terminals;
The liner is removed;
The decorative element of the threshold is then dismantled;
The wing moves slightly to the side, the side repeater is dismantled from its place;
The protective cover is removed, after which the cartridge with the lamp is disconnected;
There is a bolt at the bottom that fixes the buffer on the side, it must be loosened;
Now you need to unscrew 5 nuts fixing the protective component of the crankcase;
Another bolt securing the wing from below is unscrewed by the head by 10;
It remains to unscrew the rear and upper bolts. It will be more convenient to do this through the wheel housing;
The wing is removable;
A new one is put, the sealant, the cuff must also change;
After carefully adjusting the clearances, the final tightening of the bolts is carried out.
Like the rest of the bodywork, the hood is dismantled for replacement or repair. In this case, work must be performed with the help of an assistant:
The location of the washers located on the hinges of the body part is marked with some sharp object or crayon. This is done for the convenience of re-installing the body element;
The hood is opened, then the safety hook is removed from the element with a 10 key. Hold it with 2 bolts;
Rubber plugs are also turned out of the hood;
The caps are subject to the same fate (there should be 17 of them);
The nuts that fix the hood on both hinges are unscrewed.
Advice. Spring-type washers are located under the nuts. Turning them away, one must be very careful. An assistant in this case will be needed to keep the part from shifting to the side.
The hood is removed from the studs;
The new hood is installed in place of the old one. Without fail, attachment nuts are attached, the hood is adjusted to the correct position.
Note. Correct position of the bonnet means that the front edge of the vehicle must be flush with the front of the radiator.
The fastening nuts are tightened.
A new or refurbished hood on the "top ten" can be soundproofed or modernized in various ways.
It is also recommended to dismantle and replace them with an assistant. If electrical equipment is fixed on them, then the wires must be removed without fail. It should also be remembered that in case of replacement, it is recommended to transfer all removable parts from the old door to a new one.
Here is how the doors are dismantled on the VAZ 2110:
The door opens;
2 bolts that connect the door to the A-pillar are turned off;
The bolts that fix the upper and lower hinges are turned out;
The new door is installed in the reverse order.
Advice. Before fully fixing the hinge bolts, you need to slam the door and adjust it so as to equalize the gaps in the openings along the entire border. Then you will need to open the door with jewelry, and tighten the latches all the way. It is recommended to check everything again. If something goes wrong, the door lock is already regulated.
In most cases, after a severe accident and deformation of the roof, when the damage is of a serious nature, it can be easier to repair the “dozen” roof by replacing the element completely.
Here's what you need to do:
Remove the water drainage moldings;
Dismantle glass from the front and rear of the car;
Remove the upholstery and various roof elements;
Put the new body part on the old one, mark the cutting places;
Cut off the old roof with a grinder at the junctions of the body element with the frame panels of the windshield and rear windows and with the sidewalls of the body.
Advice. Cutting is done where the roof bends. From the edge it is necessary to take an indent of 8 mm. As for the cutting of the side panels, the indentation here should be taken from 10-15 mm.
The roof panel is removable;
Protruding elements are removed, metal surfaces at the joints are cleaned to a smooth state;
The body parts are necessarily straightened in the areas where they are combined with the roof;
New panel fits in place;
The roof panel is welded to the frame elements.
Advice. First, you need to grab the roof with dots, and only then, after careful adjustment, finally weld.
Contact welding of the roof is carried out with a pitch of 40-50 mm in the area of connection with the frame panel of the windshield and rear windows. As for the coupling in the area of junction of the body element with the sidewalls of the frame, it would be appropriate to work here with gas welding.
Note. Do not forget to put seals at the end.
These body elements of the VAZ 2110 are dismantled not only for the purpose of replacement or repair, but more often for the purpose of modernization and tuning:
The negative terminal is removed from the battery;
The radiator grill is dismantled.
Advice. Using a 10 key, it will be easier to unscrew the 2 self-tapping screws holding the grill on top.
Now you need to loosen the power unit protection fasteners. A 10 socket wrench will be useful here;
Using a curly screwdriver, self-tapping screws are unscrewed, fixing the fender liner from the upper and lower sides;
With the help of a head for 8, the bolts that fix the bumper to the brackets are unscrewed;
The bolts connecting the bumper to the front panel are unscrewed with a 10 head;
The front bumper can be easily removed if you move it slightly forward.
The rear bumper can be removed in much the same way as the front.
Most often, this body part of the VAZ 2110 breaks down in the area where the stabilizer is attached, which is responsible for lateral stability, as well as in the area where the steering wheel is attached. You can learn more about the do-it-yourself spar replacement from other articles on our website.
Video (click to play).
In the process of dismantling the body parts of the VAZ 2110 with your own hands, photo and video materials of good quality will be extremely useful. If you learn how to independently remove and replace parts according to the instructions, you can save a lot. As you know, the price of services of this kind in the service station is quite high.
