Now the state of the new, or rather updated, body should be brought to perfection, provide the necessary high level of protection against corrosion, destructive rust, gravel and other troubles. To do this, perform several sequential operations:
VIDEO
Clean the metal by removing scale, achieving a shine;
Lubricate the surfaces with seam mastic;
Treat metal elements with a primer;
Apply a coat of paint to match the body color;
Outside, treat the bottom with mastic and anti-gravel compound;
Carefully measure, then cut out the soundproofing sheet with scissors. It is heated with an industrial hair dryer and placed on the bottom. This is if we are talking about bitumen Shumkov.
Now the work on repairing the bottom of your car is nearing its logical conclusion. However, a difficult, responsible stage of reassembly awaits you ahead. Therefore, we strongly do not recommend relaxing.
If you correctly disassemble the interior and dismantle the bottom elements, there should be no problems with their assembly. We advise you to prescribe each stage, record it on video, sign each bag with fasteners.
As you can see, it is quite possible to repair the bottom yourself. But in no case do not work at random, without prior preparation and appropriate tools. This is a good way to save money, but in the absence of experience and skills, it is better to contact specialized service stations with similar problems.
Many of us would like to get into body repair, but we hesitate for reasons: “it's difficult”, “it's expensive”, “I'll screw up”, “I don't know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not at all expensive. We will figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.
Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting the damage site is already necessary.
Hello everyone! My name is Michael, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that the breakdowns of the dvenashki began to annoy me wildly, it seemed that nothing serious was broken, but on trifles, damn it, there were so many things that really started to piss me off. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on Tayotu Camry tenth years.
Painting can be of two types: partial car painting (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).
Local car painting necessary in cases where you need to restore only a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.Painting the whole part performed only if necessary, if the scratches or dents are deep and occupy a large area on the car body part.
All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing they think about is paint in cans. And then the question arises:
Answer: Of course, you can paint, but you can’t paint with high quality. Why ?
Firstly, the spray can has uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint the car with high quality. In addition, the paint stream is too saturated, so it is easy to get paint smudges as a result.
Secondly, getting into a color from a spray can is very rare, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time.Suppose you were able to choose the color as accurately as possible, painted it, and the result completely suits you. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from atmospheric influences and is easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can forget about normal polishing altogether.
It is important to remember that car painting must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street. If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be stained, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.
Thus, if we are talking about spray painting, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics. But if you are still set on such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and make at least 3 layers. Video on painting a car with a spray can can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but it is better to forget about the full painting of the car from a spray can.
Now let's figure it out how to paint a car at home :
To good quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), an airbrush (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the entire machine with paper or film. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it has remained there forever. Well degrease the surface and apply in a couple of layers.
We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the primer to the touch has become perfectly smooth and even with the body, the process of preparing for painting can be considered complete.
Remember that a properly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!
Quality car paint possible only if choose the right color . The paint should perfectly match the previous coating. It is best to turn to a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.
Before painting, it is necessary to determine exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. Be sure to remove all the gloss from the wing (matt). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or special scotch-brite sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). Degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky cloth to remove small specks. Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, before painting, it is recommended to nail the dust with a water spray.
car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the ground. So, first coat of paint spreads on the ground, overlapping it and a little the wing itself. Second layer apply in a minute and a minute later third , basic. The air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure when painting will not lead to anything good. After the third layer, we get a matte painted wing:
At room temperature, the paint dries in about 15 minutes. If, after drying, bumps come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. It is impossible to touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply erase the paint.
Next detail needed varnish . It is recommended to carefully walk again with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand.It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out. It is possible to cover with varnish at will, either while the paint is still not completely dry, or wait for the final drying.
First coat of varnish (base) must be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part. Second coat of varnish (basic) apply after holding for 2 minutes, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.
If dust got under the lacquer , then polishing will help correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!
car painting cost , and in particular the wing, which was discussed in the photo report, is:
Emery - 100 rubles;
Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
Putty - 50 rubles;
Primer - 70 rubles;
Paint - 300 rubles;
Varnish - 200 rubles;
Total 900 rubles.
The main problem with silvery shades is the so-called apple effect, when the paint is stained. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is covered by another, the shade changes and, as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last coat of paint, the painter increases the air supply in the spray gun and applies the last coat of paint by spraying, making sure that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.
After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (bases) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color seems to be black in places. The reason is insufficiently painted surface.
If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.
Lacquer streaks can occur due to too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.
How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.
Video of painting a car in a garage :
Video painting a car by a professional :
Of course, it is impossible to paint a car locally without basic skills and experience. But you can always practice on an old bumper or paint a VAZ car that is no longer afraid of the painter's mistakes. Do not be afraid and do not panic, believe in yourself, because this is just a piece of iron! By the way, there are other ways to deal with rust.
In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers have successfully used Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect against fines. After reviewing and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you.
In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers have successfully used Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect against fines. After reviewing and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you.
The condition of the car depends to a large extent on the body. The suspension can be "sorted out" by replacing worn and defective parts. Attachments are also repaired or replaced at the engine, in severe cases, a major overhaul or a complete replacement is made. Body work determines the appearance of the car and, in many ways, its service life.
New VAZ 2110 from the salon with an ideal body
The first copies of the tenth family had a characteristic feature - the paintwork on the windshield frame at the top peeled off, starting from under the seal. Then this disease was overcome by changing the technology, but the weaknesses remained.
Already on five-seven-year-old cars, corrosion on the thresholds is very likely, and ten-year-olds without fail require control of the bottom, arches, spars.
Accelerate the appearance of rust and through corrosion, damage in an accident with subsequent incomplete or unskilled repairs, severe operating conditions on bad roads in winter and in bad weather, storage in conditions of high humidity.
Regular anti-corrosion treatment performed in the service or with your own hands will help extend the life of body parts, it is especially necessary for the hidden cavities of the thresholds and side members, this power “skeleton” of the car.
The bottom is corroded on both sides. From below it is attacked by dirt and water from the road. In case of violation of the anti-gravel coating, the first foci appear literally in a year, after 2–3 years, with intensive use, corrosion becomes through.
In the cabin, there is a carpet on the floor, under which there are layers of vibration-proof and noise-absorbing materials. When water or snow gets into the trough of the bottom, for example, from shoes, the coating gets wet and dries poorly. Increased constant humidity leads to corrosion of the bottom from the inside of the cabin and the need for repair. To prevent this, use rubber mats with bumpers, make sure that no water enters the cabin during rain and washing.
Corrosion due to moisture under soundproofing material
A rotten bottom is revealed when viewed from below, under a layer of putty or anti-gravel, holes may not be visually noticeable, but light hammer blows or pricks with an awl will immediately show the defect. Most often, corrosion appears along the thresholds and in the legs of the driver and front passenger.
In the cabin, the poor condition of the bottom will be indicated by the floor sagging under the feet under load, in extreme cases, the failure or impossibility of fixing the driver's seat. And, of course, a common situation when, when lifting a car on a jack, special jacking pads break due to corrosion.
Bottom repair can be done with your own hands, but this requires a good tool, an adapted room, free time, skills and desire.
When working with metal, welding is indispensable. It is optimal to use a semi-automatic welding machine with wire and carbon dioxide, compared to gas and electrodes, it is much simpler, more convenient and of better quality. An angle grinder will be needed when removing rotten floor fragments, for fitting parts and patches during welding, for cleaning seams and surfaces before processing and assembly.
Semiautomatic welding machine with carbon dioxide welding wire
You also need stands for the car, for example, four pieces of the "rhombus" type. The rest of the tool is standard and more common. Of the materials you will need welding wire, seam mastic, anticorrosive, sandpaper, primer, paint, soundproofing sheets.
VIDEO
For repair, the car is driven into the room and installed on stands. It should be possible to work comfortably and safely from below under the bottom. The battery and the electronic control unit are turned off to prevent damage during welding. The doors are removed, to maintain the rigidity and geometry of the body, spacers in the doorways are very desirable.
VIDEO
The next stage will be long and responsible - dismantling the cabin. Here it is necessary to dismantle the seats, remove the lining of the floor tunnel, air ducts, remove the carpet, set the wiring harnesses aside, scrape off or beat off the “Shumka”. If it is necessary to change the entire bottom or weld in the floor panel, then the torpedo and beard must be removed - access to the motor shield must be open. All fasteners are recommended to be carefully assembled, packaged and signed to facilitate assembly work.
VIDEO
When the floor is completely visible, you can decide on the amount of repair. In the best case, you can do without replacing parts. All foci of corrosion must be carefully cleaned to a “healthy” metal, if necessary, reinforced with patches. But this is usually unlikely.
In the presence of through holes or loss of rigidity, a replacement of the corresponding body part is necessary.For VAZ models of the tenth family, the body floor consists of:
floor panels;
threshold extensions;
extensions of the front spar;
support platforms;
connectors;
crossbars.
For replacement, the old part is drilled at the welding points or cut off with a “grinder”. Remember that the fuel and brake lines run outside under the bottom on the driver's side. Dismantling them on similar machines is problematic, it is easier to cut them off, and replace them with new ones during installation.
If the floor panel of the VAZ 2110 is in very poor condition, then the bottom is completely assembled, in which case additional dismantling of the exhaust system will be required. If at the same time it is necessary to replace the thresholds, then they change one by one with geometry control, and only then the floor is overcooked.
VIDEO
Marking, cutting out the old, fitting the new require attention and accuracy, and the welding itself is also an assistant. The bottom starts from below, sticks, the main welding is done not with a continuous seam, but with a step of 4–5 cm.
VIDEO
After welding, the seams must be protected from corrosion.
The metal is cleaned from scale to a shine, smeared with seam mastic. All surfaces are primed, then painted in the main color, without color matching. The choice of quality materials and careful processing will guarantee successful corrosion resistance.
VIDEO
Outside, a layer of mastic and anti-gravel coating is applied. From the inside, adjusting the size with scissors and heating the bitumen layer with an industrial hair dryer, sheet sound insulation is glued.
VIDEO
Now it remains to assemble the interior using fasteners packaged and signed during disassembly.
To repair or replace the bottom with your own hands is quite within the power of most motorists. If you want to save money, feel confident, learn new skills, or maybe chat with friends in the garage and take a break from family worries, then go for it. Do-it-yourself car repair is necessary, useful, affordable.
A B-class car, a four-door VAZ 2110, was produced in the city of Tolyatti in 1995. It gained popularity due to the fact that it was manufactured with technical characteristics that could compete with those of representatives of the foreign auto industry.
Comparatively low prices of spare parts.
High quality aerodynamics.
Metal body with galvanization.
Soft suspension.
Do-it-yourself maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2110 is affordable and inexpensive. The interest of buyers is also caused by relatively low fuel consumption. The car is represented by a five-seater saloon with a front engine in the car, the drive is located on the front wheels. The body has a supporting structure of all-metal welded type.
Important repair stages are scheduled repairs (TO) and seasonal ones. Mandatory car maintenance includes diagnostics, repairs and adjustments. There is a simple, labor-intensive job that you can easily do yourself. Difficult work will require additional equipment and a good tool. If the machine is operated in particularly harsh conditions, experts recommend reducing the mileage for routine maintenance to 5 thousand km. Regular auto repair includes:
replacement of used oil;
replacement of filters (oil, fuel, air);
engine diagnostics with inspection of the brake system;
replacement of steering mechanisms with running gear.
If necessary, after inspecting the VAZ 2110 car, the following is performed:
work on cleaning nozzles;
economizer adjustment;
replacement of brake pads;
camber adjustment;
replacement of brake cylinders with hoses;
shock absorber replacement.
VIDEO
Repair and operation of the VAZ must be carried out in strict accordance with the rules. Once every six months, a seasonal inspection is done. The repairman is not limited to changing tires on a car during the season. VAZ repairs can be carried out both in salons by qualified specialists, and on their own.Based on work experience, year of manufacture and condition of the car, the master can easily tell about the approximate mileage until the next repair.
For the production of a simple simple repair of the VAZ 2110 on your own, you need to have a minimum of tools. Repair includes the following operations.
Adding used fluid (brake, coolant, for washing exterior windows) or new oil into the engine.
Headlight adjustment.
Replacement of filters.
Replacement of brake pads
Recharging batteries, replacing sensors, checking tire pressure.
For routine repairs, you will need a viewing ditch (pit) and a special lift. To perform complex repairs, where it is necessary to replace parts of all suspensions, you will have to invite competent and physically trained assistants. You need to work with a professional tool. The most time-consuming and expensive are capital repairs to the body and engine.
VIDEO
Experts do not recommend performing these works in artisanal conditions. This is especially true for those who do not have practical skills, the necessary special equipment and the right tools. It is impossible to eliminate the consequences of incorrectly and unprofessionally performed major repairs on the engine, often it is necessary to change it completely.
Body parts for the VAZ 2110 or just iron today are of interest to many owners of this car. Parts are used to replace deformed and damaged components of the “tens” body. As a rule, original spare parts are manufactured at the factory, according to the classical instructions and rules, and then delivered to car dealerships. In some cases, to save money, owners buy parts from organizations that use the disassembly method. From the article, the reader will learn how the main body parts of the “tens” are replaced.
To begin with, let's get acquainted with the body scheme of the "tens". The photo below the table clearly shows all the body parts of the VAZ 2110.
This body part of the "dozens" is called a TV. The replacement of the element is carried out in the event of a strong blow from the front, when the “native” part is easier to replace than to repair.
As a rule, in an accident during a frontal impact, the upper frame and the beam, which has the function of reinforcing the bumper, are deformed most of all. But the TV is changing in any case entirely.
According to experts, it is much easier to replace a TV with a "ten" than with a "nine" or other models that were released earlier by AvtoVAZ. This is due to the simplicity of the design of the "Desyatov" radiator frame.
Note. In some cases, the upper frame and the lower beam can be found on sale separately.
The TV is mounted on the body using welding points. They are located in 4 places - the radiator frame is attached in places where it is connected to the wing amplifiers (“arrows”) and to the spars. To dismantle the TV, it will be enough to drill the points in these places, and then cut them down with a sharp chisel.
Advice. In the process of removing the TV, it is possible to dismantle the radiator itself, only in this case you must not forget to disconnect the radiator pipes.
After the new radiator frame is put in place, the welding spots will need to be thoroughly cleaned with an emery wheel and puttied. In places where the frame touches the body, sealant must be applied.
On the “top ten”, the front wing is dismantled for repair or replacement, as is the radiator frame. Here are the instructions to follow when replacing:
The battery is de-energized by disconnecting the terminals;
The fender liner is removed;
The decorative element of the threshold is then dismantled;
The wing moves a little to the side, the side repeater is dismantled from its place;
The protective cover is removed, after which the cartridge with the lamp is disconnected;
At the bottom there is a bolt that fixes the buffer on the side, it must be loosened;
Now you need to unscrew 5 nuts that fix the protective component of the crankcase;
Another bolt securing the wing from below is unscrewed with a 10 head;
It remains to unscrew the rear and upper bolts. It will be more convenient to do this through the wheel niche;
The wing is removed;
A new one is put in, the sealant, cuff must also be changed;
After careful adjustment of the gaps, the final tightening of the bolts is carried out.
Like other body parts, the hood is dismantled for the purpose of replacement or repair. Work in this case must be performed with the help of an assistant:
The location of the washers located on the hinges of the body part is marked with some sharp object or chalk. This is done for the convenience of reinstalling the body element;
The hood opens, then the safety hook is removed from the element with a key of 10. It is held by 2 bolts;
Rubber plugs also turn out from the hood;
The caps are subject to the same fate (there should be 17 of them);
The nuts fixing the hood on both hinges are unscrewed.
Advice. Under the nuts are spring type washers. Turning them away, you have to be very careful. An assistant in this case will be needed to keep the part from shifting to the side.
The hood is removed from the studs;
The new hood is installed in place of the old one. It is mandatory to bait the fastening nuts, the hood is adjusted to the correct position.
Note. The correct position of the hood means that the front edge of the car should be flush with the front of the radiator.
Fastening nuts are tightened.
A new or repaired hood on the "top ten" can be soundproofed or upgraded in various ways.
They are also recommended to be dismantled and replaced by two people with an assistant. If electrical equipment is fixed on them, then the wires must be removed without fail. It must also be remembered that in case of replacement, it is recommended to transfer all removable parts from the old door to a new one.
Here is how the doors are dismantled on the VAZ 2110:
The door opens;
2 bolts that connect the door to the front pillar are turned away;
The bolts fixing the upper and lower hinges are turned out;
The new door is installed in reverse order.
Advice. Before fully fixing the hinge bolts, it is necessary to slam the door and adjust it so as to equalize the gaps in the openings along the entire border. Then it will be necessary to open the door jewelry, and tighten the latches until it stops. It is recommended to check everything again. If something is wrong, the door lock is already regulated.
In most cases, after a severe accident and deformation of the roof, when the damage is serious, it is easier to repair the “tens” roof by replacing the element completely.
Here is what will need to be done:
Remove moldings designed to drain water;
Dismantle the glass in front and behind the car;
Remove upholstery and various roof elements;
Put a new body part on the old one, mark the felling places;
Using a grinder, cut off the old roof at the junction of the body element with the frame panels of the windshield and rear windows and with the sidewalls of the body.
Advice. Cutting is carried out in places where the roof bends. From its edge it is necessary to take an indent of 8 mm. As for cutting the side panels, the indent here must be taken 10-15 mm.
The roof panel is removed;
Protruding elements are removed, metal surfaces at the joints are cleaned to a smooth state;
Be sure to straighten body parts in areas where they are combined with the roof;
The new panel is fitted in place;
The roof panel is welded to the frame elements by welding.
Advice. First, you need to grab the roof with dots, and only then, after careful fitting, finally weld it.
Contact welding of the roof is carried out with a step of 40-50 mm in the area of connection with the frame panel of the windshield and rear windows. As for the coupling in the area of \u200b\u200bconnection of the body element with the sidewalls of the skeleton, it would be appropriate to work with gas welding here.
Note. Do not forget to put seals at the end.
These body elements of the VAZ 2110 are dismantled not only for the purpose of replacement or repair, but more often for the purpose of modernization and tuning:
The negative terminal is removed from the battery;
The radiator grille is dismantled.
Advice.Using a 10 wrench, it will be easier to unscrew the 2 screws holding the grate on top.
Now you need to loosen the fasteners for protecting the power unit. A 10 socket wrench will be useful here;
Using a curly screwdriver, the self-tapping screws are unscrewed, fixing the fender liner from the upper and lower sides;
Using the 8 head, the bolts fixing the bumper to the brackets are unscrewed;
With a 10 head, the bolts connecting the bumper to the front panel are unscrewed;
The front bumper is easy to remove if you move it a little forward.
The rear bumper is removed in much the same way as the front.
Most often, this body part of the VAZ 2110 breaks down in the area where the stabilizer is attached, which is responsible for lateral stability, as well as in the area where the steering wheel is attached. Details about replacing the spar with your own hands can be found in other articles on our site.
Video (click to play).
In the process of dismantling body parts of the VAZ 2110 with your own hands, good quality photo and video materials will be extremely useful. If you learn how to remove and replace parts yourself according to the instructions, you can save a lot. As you know, the price of services of this kind in the service station is quite high.