Do-it-yourself Lanos body repair

On our own, we can straighten shallow dents and paint over the scratches formed on the Lanos body. The entire repair process can be divided into two groups: painting scratches on the paintwork and straightening the body with small dents.

When straightening the body of the Chevrolet Lanos, the following materials will come in handy: wooden mallets, rubber-covered anvil and supports. There are three types of scratches: easy to remove, medium and deep. You will have to tinker with scratches of the second and third types. In order to eliminate the defect, we need to provide ourselves with access to the outside and inside of the damaged surface. It is advisable to completely remove this element and calmly straighten it in comfortable conditions. In the first case, it is enough for us to press on the dent with our hand and it will straighten up with a characteristic sound. If this cannot be done, then we perform the actions related to the second method.

We knock with a straightening hammer on the back of the part, after placing a soft surface covered with rubber on the outside. If the scratches are too deep, body repairs can take too long. Then we will use not a soft, but a metal support covered with rubber. At the same time, there is a risk of damage to the paintwork, in order to prevent this, we cover the element with several layers of fabric. During straightening, we use exclusively a wooden kianka, we do not apply strong blows, at a slow pace, we start from the middle and slowly move to the edge of the damage.

Striking too hard will only enlarge the dent. After we straightened the Chevrolet Lanos body element, it needs to be processed with sandpaper, epoxy should be applied, thereby the surface will again become not only even, but also smooth. Next, we make a primer and paint. Minor scratches can be easily repaired with regular polishing. If the scratch has not touched the primer layer, then after polishing it can be completely forgotten. During polishing, we use an abrasive paste, which removes a small layer of paint, respectively, the scratch is smoothed out.

It is important at this stage not to overdo it with the removal of the paint layer, otherwise you can get to the primer and then a complete repainting of the Chevrolet Lacetti cannot be avoided. You should not start polishing the part if the scratch has reached the primer layer, this work turns into a waste of time. Polishing should be done carefully, in compliance with all technological rules. After removing the scratch and repainting the damaged area, it is best to refrain from washing the car for a few weeks. A well-made polishing not only makes the car beautiful, it also performs a protective function - it prevents the formation of new damage.

Well, friends, due to the fact that I am directly related to body repair and painting, I will publish my reports on the work done.
So we have Daewoo Lanos with a problematic arch, scratches, dents and multi-colored doors from disassembly.

First, we cut out the damaged piece, straighten it and weld it neatly into place
Then we process the bare metal with epoxy primer in order to prevent corrosion, I did not capture it in the photo, but rest assured, everything was done according to technology)

Then puttying, we display all planes, gaps:

Next, we glue and prime. Important! Before priming, be sure to mask parts that are not primed and interrupt the risk from coarse sandpaper. We never forget about Rule 100... On this car, the putty was processed as follows: P120-P180-P220-P320, because. we are dealing with silver and we don’t need any scratches.
We prime:

Next, we grind the soil, P320 on a hard bar 3M, then P400 on a typewriter-P600 on a typewriter, we use gray adhesive tape 3M for the transition of the base and varnish, paste over and paint)

All paints and varnishes used the SIKKENS brand, abrasives and consumables 3M, pistols for soil and painting SATA

Done sensibly. Conditions at the level. Is the arch filled with wax inside after all the operations? Without surgical intervention in any way?

yes, everything is poured, before welding it is treated with welding primer to calm the soul. Well, this time in no way (there were dents with gaps in places and pull them out with a spotter, the metal does not break ((alas

you need a spotter. straightening work is done for 2 points. take two seams to spoil the wing ((

there is a spotter, but in this case the option is this, no one spoiled anything there, everything is worked out, primed and feels good. Due to the fact that there were breaks, the saotter in those places simply tore the metal, so we decided to do so

Sensible! Sho take for the replacement of thresholds + rear arches? Write to HP.

petroli AH-HA! From you damn offended child! it's a pity to listen to such ... nothing works for those who do not try, only shred in your opinion is it possible and nothing else ?! Maybe you need to learn, and not tell those who cope with such matters that this is not possible ?!

he blacklisted me))) was offended very much)

It's a joy to work with good materials!

100% with others and don't work. I don't want to lose quality

Didn't you use fayniki?

on this car is not, but generally use, because I mostly work dry

I don’t know how, but studies late - I value such masters, respect and am proud that we have them ... SUPER

how so?) for the feedback, thanks, nice

also doing it. only with their cars. Well, they will ask you to slightly touch up the threshold or move the pillar itself - instead of picking up paint, the flag on the wing had to put on all the conditions for me, just a garage. And you youngster prm like it when - so there are no words. I'm taking it from the spray, don't laugh too hard ... Come in, write if anything ...

what is so funny? on the contrary, it is commendable that you yourself can fix the problem with your car

Oh-oh-oh, I raised myself that I can do something ... some .- that spray ... draw on your forehead. Well, here I am drawing. thank you, it’s nice too ...

the work is creditable, but it was possible to flatten without cutting, but this is the business of every flattener

Is it worth it to repair the arch with painting?

And the back door is different in color, it had to be painted on the spot.

really? hmm something I did not notice) everything is clear and in color, I paint so constantly and apply the same number of layers in the same way. It has never happened that the color did not match. Maybe the light falls so simply, live, everything is ideally there. It is not an option to paint together, to paint over the opening first, and then once again drive the camera to paint the side

this happens mainly with silver. no big deal 😉

that I know what happens, it's just that I've never had this)) I remember how many layers and how to lay down in order to avoid problems later)

there are several reasons, 1 the angle of the gun relative to the part. 2 the distance of the gun to the part.
The part should hang at the same level (height and slope) as the other part.

I take it all into account, it's not the first day I've been painting) my colleagues, when I worked for a hundred, had such problems, I never even once, even with white three-layers

Why not stretch the arch with a spotter?

Excellent work, I also cut and flatten in difficult to remove places and then weld in place!

and there is nothing stupid about it, and cars drive and do not rust with proper handling

great job ... was fun to watch).

this is old school, and it should be done. All other semi-methods are usually not for long ...

well, you could do without it, but not this time)

How did you protect the welding inside the arch from rye?

blew soil from a cylinder and treated with anticorrosive material for internal cavities

good job!
and the price of work and materials ... if not a secret.
if you can separate bodywork and paint separately?

That would be how everyone would treat their work!

yes ... so as not to alter it later after the crooked ones who dishonor the profession ...

So I spread it already. Or was it in another group?
There were also my comments about an interesting approach to straightening the arch.

So my memory did not disappoint me-))

because of that dent with a small gap it was necessary to change a piece of the boot ?! are you kidding?

do not change, the piece remains the same, read carefully

is it not easier with a spotter? you yourself created a crap, plus extra welding

Well, it's not me who straightened it, I'm just a painter. The straightener said that it was necessary to do so, I believe him)) the spotter just started tearing the metal. If you look closely, you can see the gaps before straightening, so we decided that way ...

well, let it be, even though it's stupid ...

The spotter does not always help, unfortunately, in the budget, there is a very thin metal and when working with it, the metal does not stretch, but tears! So there is nothing stupid in such a choice, moreover, the weld by itself is much stronger than the metal around (if the welder is normal, of course)!

The spotter does not always help, unfortunately, in the budget, there is a very thin metal and when working with it, the metal does not stretch, but tears! So there is nothing stupid in such a choice, moreover, the weld by itself is much stronger than the metal around (if the welder is normal, of course)!

that there is nothing good about the seams in these places ... but you have to be able to work with a spotter and then you can do miracles.

Well, as far as I understand, no one here except YOU is able to work with Spotter ...

Well, at least I solve such problems without any problems to spotters without harming the body.

show me a mega master, otherwise in words everyone knows how, you probably only bring in emergency situations without problems.
sofa master

Well, as far as I understand, no one here except YOU is able to work with Spotter ...

It's one thing to drive a large plane with a spotter, it's another to work on such difficult places with ribs ..., in fact, the master knows better on the spot ... everyone does what is more convenient for him ... the work is super

It's not like that for a bad dancer, that's still our job

... and that, so believe the guys with the cutout the quality of straightening turned out much better than yours with a spotter ... so your bragging is again in vain)))

When you are not working with it:
1 weld seams that will bloom later
2 there are no marks after the spotter (in places where the elastic is placed)
how not cool, if it would have been better then the spotor would not have been invented. Made of course beautifully BUT no welding seams are needed. This is all from despair.

did you think that the spotter burns the coating inside and such work will bloom even earlier than the processed welding?, and besides, I know a lot of people who work without a spotter and the quality is much better ...

When you are not working with it:
1 weld seams that will bloom later
2 there are no marks after the spotter (in places where the elastic is placed)
how not cool, if it would have been better then the spotor would not have been invented. Made of course beautifully BUT no welding seams are needed. This is all from despair.

why from despair? the author said that the spotter is the same and the master decided to do it as he saw fit at the moment ... this is all from the situation ...

I understand that you are one of those who do not see the obvious (you probably didn’t like criticism). They do this now, but only students do (angry at criticism) and think that only mountains are cooler than them 🙁

yes no ... not me, you are just a stubborn ram))) it was not me who did it))) another person did and if he decided to do so, then there were reasons for that))) ... the spotter is not a panacea ... and if he is it does not mean that you have to go to the toilet with him)))) in different cases, the technology is different ..., I know a person who does better without a saotter than you do with him))))

Yes, you are my friend Troll. HA HA

and what am I troll if I'm telling the truth?)))

... and that, so believe the guys with the cutout the quality of straightening turned out much better than yours with a spotter ... so your bragging is again in vain)))

Do it better, show it, and everyone can talk.

... well, let's start with the fact that you started to push the horn yourself ...
... and he gave an example of his work in terms of the quality of straightening worse than that of the author of the post ...
... I'm not going to butt with you)))

If you found this article on the Internet, then you wondered
how to paint a car yourself
In this series of articles I will touch upon such a question as preparing the car for painting, and subsequent DIY painting.
And so let's get started. I will show all the work on the example of one wing.

As we can see from the wing arch, the putty swelled, and the process of corrosion began. First, remove the old putty and rust. To do this, at the beginning we use such a petal circle worn on a small grinder.

We work with them quite carefully because he can grind off metal. Next, remove the rust around with a brush.

Next, we knock down the gloss around the cleaned place (wherever we plan to putty) with P120-180 sandpaper. Degrease with anti-silicone. We putty, for the first time I recommend using a glass-fiber putty.

Sanding it, I used P80 sandpaper then p120

Then we putty with ordinary coarse-grained or universal putty, sand it with P120,

For 1 time nothing will ever come of it. The required form comes out at least 3 times

We repeat the process until the desired shape comes out and without holes and large scratches. Knock down the gloss on the entire part using medium-grained sandpaper, I used the P500

Then proceed to priming. For priming, you need 2 primers, primary and secondary. The primary one is an acidic or epoxy primer, it is needed to isolate the metal, if an economical repair option, then it can not be used. Secondary is acrylic primer.
We glue the part we need with the help of film and masking tape, we need to cover all the cars with film.
We dilute the required amount of soil in a separate vessel, for this it is advisable to use measuring glasses, a scale is applied to them, with them you will not be mistaken in the proportions of solvent and hardener.

Add solvent to the soil only of the brand of which the soil is, (in extreme cases, another brand, but not 647-650), you can pour a little more solvent than is written on the soil bank.
From the beginning we prime with acidic primer, in one thin layer, and immediately after it (on wet) with acrylic primer. At the beginning we prime the whole part in 1-2 layers, then after it dries "to touch", ie. when it ceases to shine, apply another 1-2 layers to the places of filling, but not vice versa. Next, dry the soil (24 hours at 20 degrees will be enough)
If there are small holes, we will putty them, if they are large, we primer them again with a thin layer of acrylic primer. We grind the part with water, starting with sandpaper P600, ending with P1000, if the color of your car is silver, then we start with P1000, finish with P1500. Here is the finished painting part.

Then we take the paint that we bought for the selection, or a ready-made can. Thoroughly mix the paint in a jar, pour the required amount of paint into a measuring cup, add a hardener (if 2k acrylic enamel) and a solvent in the required proportions. We apply paint in at least 2 layers, if you have acrylic paint, then apply the first layer thinly, sprayed to avoid drips, if "metallic", on the contrary, is the last thin (sprayed). Break between coats 5-15 minutes depending on ambient temperature and paint. If we open the demand with varnish.
The finished result.

Tuning Chevrolet Lanos is gaining more and more popularity not only among our compatriots, but also among the owners of this model in far abroad. Lanos is positioned as a budget subcompact for comfortable city driving.With the help of engine chip tuning and do-it-yourself body modernization, Chevrolet will gain power and an original appearance.

Before starting the refinement of the Chevrolet elements, it is worth working on the auto engine control unit. Chip tuning will be the best way to increase the power of a car with minimal financial costs. To complete the work, you will need to stock up on licensed software and original wires. In the case of using pirated utilities, chip tuning will not only not improve the performance of your car, but also significantly harm the operation of the ECU. So, we need:

Loader "Combiloader" for ECU flashing We recommend that you familiarize yourself

It should be noted right away that a laptop with a different operating system is categorically not suitable for chip tuning, since Windows 7 or Windows 8 are not able to “see” the adapter connected to the laptop. Finding the latest firmware version that suits your specific ECU is easy. To do this, go to the official website of the manufacturer of the control unit, enter the name of your firmware version and wait for the results.

After the system shows you a list of utilities available for download, select and save the one with the number above to your laptop. For example, between firmware January 5.1 and January 7.1, you need to select the second option. For chip tuning with your own hands, you will need to find a Chevrolet Lanos ECU. It is located under the steering wheel in the passenger compartment. Remove the protective cover and connect our K-Line adapter to the block. We connect the second part of the adapter to the bootloader, which must be connected to the laptop. Next, turn on the ignition of the car and wait for the data on the control unit to appear on the laptop.

Electronic control unit Chevrolet Lanos

After that, open the previously saved firmware and select the final path for it in the ECU folder. The firmware will “request” the calibration of the parameters. Here you should make the settings for each available car part so that in the end the operation of all systems of the car meets your specific requirements. After you have calibrated the parameters, you can start chip tuning. To do this, we agree to the terms of use of the firmware and wait for the moment when the creeping line of the download turns green. Then we will see a notice of a successfully completed work, press "OK" and turn off the ignition. In the end, it remains to disconnect the ECU from the adapter, and the programmer from the laptop.

After the done chip tuning, you can test the car. Provided that you have used the licensed utilities, you will feel dramatic changes in its operation from the first revolutions of the engine. The Lanos engine will run quieter, more stable, it will not twitch when changing gears and will start to consume much less fuel. After doing the DIY chip tuning, your Chevrolet gets an additional 20-30 hp. s, and fuel consumption is reduced by 1–1.2 liters.

Considering the standard Lanos equipment, the car can be classified as an economy class. This is also confirmed by the interior of the model, which does not differ in special interior decoration. As for the quality of the cabin elements, everything is done to a minimum: a minimum of dashboard illumination, a minimum of comfort for rear passengers. After all, even the gear knob is made of plastic, which isn't that hard to break.

Economy class car interior The conclusion suggests itself - the improvement of the interior is simply necessary. And the first thing we will start with is the installation of soundproofing material. To do this, you can use either the familiar felt insulation, or the material that the Chevrolet companies have already released in pursuit of Lanos. The second differs from felt in its better soundproofing qualities, lower cost and practicality in use. So, in order to clear the material from the Chevrolet company, you do not need to unscrew many fasteners.

Installation of soundproofing material It is enough to pull it out entirely, clean it, treat it with a special paste, which is included in the kit, and put it back in place in the cabin. The next step in tuning the Lanos cab will be to replace the gear lever. To do this, you can purchase metal parts from companies Bosch or products of the model range of the company Pirelli... To replace the lever, you will need to dismantle the old part. First, we unscrew the 2 bolts holding the standard handle and take it out. Instead, we insert a new element and fasten it with fasteners.

After these procedures, driving a Chevrolet Lanos will become more comfortable. Now you don't have to worry every time about how hard to push the gearshift lever and which hole in the cabin to plug in order to listen to your favorite song.