DIY minibus body repair

An article about local repair of a car body - preparation, procedure, subtleties of work. At the end of the article - a video about car body repair.

There are many reasons that lead to the repair of one or another part of the body. These can be mechanical damage to the paintwork by road debris, the consequences of minor accidents, chemical damage due to improper use of reagents, and, finally, the manifestation of ordinary corrosion.

Of course, as a result of the listed damage, the car does not lose its technical characteristics, and therefore there is no reason to hand it over to scrap. Only the external aesthetics of the car suffers, and this problem is quite simple to solve. And if you repair everything with your own hands, then the economic benefits will be obvious.

Before local body repair, you need to wash the car well, and then diagnose for defects. This is necessary in order to know for sure which parts of the body need to be repaired, as well as what tools and equipment will be required for this.

The first step is to investigate the nature of the damage. For instance:

• dents resulting from an accident, as well as from impacts of stones from under the wheels;
• violation of the integrity of the paintwork: chips, cracks, scratches, etc.;
• corrosion.

If this damage is mechanical and at the same time it is associated with a rupture of metal surfaces, or if it is a typical corrosion that has “eaten through” the metal through and through, then it would be reasonable to replace the damaged part with a new one. The same can be said about those damaged places in which the stiffeners suffered. But if the part cannot be replaced (the model is outdated), it can, in principle, be restored, but it will be much more difficult to do this than to replace it.

In addition, it is necessary to find those places that require correction of geometric deformation, and also note all minor damage that can be easily removed with a putty. As a result of such a defect analysis, you will know which body parts will require subsequent repair.

The most effective way to repair a damaged body part is to replace it. But if you nevertheless decided to repair the part, then in this case it will have to be dismantled. So let's start with dismantling.

Most of the body parts can be bolted or self-tapping, so they can be easily removed without welding. By the way, if the repaired part is installed already painted, it will be much better and easier.

However, there are parts that are assembled using spot welding. To dismantle them, use a special chisel and hammer. With these tools, a weld point is cut between the parts at the attachment point.

It is better to install the repaired part using special mastic, as a result of which the elements will connect to each other much more tightly and tightly. This will create additional waterproofing. It is advisable to do this with any method of connection, but if you use welding, you must keep the welding points clean.

No local body repair can do without putty. The fact is that, having repaired the damaged body parts, in any case you will have to go to the final cosmetics.

The first step is to close the deepest irregularities, the depth of which exceeds 1 mm. To do this, use a coarse filler.At the same time, do not forget that among the parts that make up the body there are parts that are subject to vibration and can deform from this.

When processing such parts, use a putty containing an aluminum filler. Fiberglass putty can be used for the rest of the parts.

To begin with, the places where you plan to apply the putty will have to be matted. This can be done with a medium-grit emery cloth for better adhesion to the surface.

The next stage is directly puttying. And this process should take no more than 20 minutes. In any case, most putties have this setting time. Therefore, in order to be in time, proceed as follows:

Dilute the filler according to the manufacturer's instructions. After that, mix the solution thoroughly enough so that the composition excludes air bubbles, has a measured color and the same consistency.

Start applying the solution to the surface with a spatula. At the same time, be extremely careful not to overestimate the required layer thickness. Therefore, it is better to apply thin layers in several steps to achieve the desired level. And if the surplus does appear, they must be removed immediately.

Allow the putty to harden.

Note: of course, it is impossible to immediately apply the putty so that later this surface does not require mechanical processing. Therefore, it will be very good if you come to a result that is as close to ideal as possible.

As already mentioned, mechanical processing of the putty surface in any case cannot be avoided. Therefore, wait until the composition has completely solidified, and then proceed to processing.

To do this, stock up on emery cloth and a wooden block. For a start, you can use a medium-grained skin, and try to pick up a block that is not very large, but fairly even.

The method of such processing is quite simple: wrap the block in "sandpaper" and begin to process the surface to be repaired with it. It is due to the even block that you can identify where it is necessary to remove excess putty, and where it needs to be added.

You can use an orbital sander besides the sandpaper-wrapped bar, but it takes care and a lot of experience to use it. And if there is no such experience, then it is better to sand it by hand, as described above - you will make fewer mistakes.

Despite the fact that this procedure is quite simple, rare specialists manage to do everything the first time. Therefore, after the first treatment, check the result and, if necessary, repeat everything again. Your ultimate goal is to keep the surface level and free of pits, bumps, or seams.

So, you have done the "blackest" work, the repaired surface already has a favorable appearance, and now there is little to do - to eliminate small defects. The problem is that sometimes it is even impossible to notice them with the naked eye, but after repair they will definitely show themselves.

And here you will need another, fine-grained putty, which is also called finishing. You apply it in the thinnest layer to those places that require it: scuffs, scratches, an excessive layer of coarse-grain putty.

The condition is the same as with the use of a coarse-grained putty - you need to have time to apply the composition before its initial hardening. After that, there is a stage of mechanical finishing, and fine-grained sandpaper is already used here, which is popularly called zero.

This work should also be done manually if there is no experience in using special tools. The necessary result of this procedure is the complete absence of irregularities, both visible and invisible, and tangibly tangible.

In this final step, sometimes it is possible to apply the putty in several layers, but in most cases one is enough.

Once you have done all this, the repair can be considered complete. All that remains is to paint the repaired areas and your car will look like new.

Video about car body repair:

The body is the main element of the car, ensuring its proper operation. This component has a complex structure and is subject to high loads from time to time. Therefore, problems arise that require intervention. Body repair allows you to restore damage and return the car to working condition.

The reasons for the repair are two factors:

The most common manifestation of the first factor is wear and tear. Most of the damage to the body is a natural process. This component has an operational period, after which the strength values ​​decrease and it becomes vulnerable. The most common cause of wear is corrosion.

Sometimes the cause of problems with the body is non-observance of the rules for storing a car, or improper use. These actions are related to the human factor. Also included in this category:

• constructive flaws made by the manufacturer;
• malfunctions of defects arising from the assembly of the machine;
• damage resulting from poor quality repairs.

The human factor includes road accidents. More than 50% of accidents involve damage to the car body.

General body faults:

• operational;
• constructive;
• technological.

Body damage includes damage to the original condition of an element, from minor scratches to large dents or creases.

The organization of the technological process of work on car restoration begins with diagnostics.

Diagnostics determines the presence of all faults, their features and nature. This makes it easier to choose a way to repair the body. Diagnostics is performed in three stages:

1. The paintwork of the machine is inspected for defects.
2. An assessment of the geometry of the body is given - if there are irregularities, an inspection without special equipment is sufficient.
3. A quality examination is carried out to determine the condition of the welded seams and fasteners. This task requires attention and experience, since the main load is distributed among these elements.

After troubleshooting, a repair plan is drawn up.

Body repair is a set of technological actions aimed at restoring the body. The basis of this process involves the elimination of damage of any nature.

There are two types of body repair:

• full - used when repairing large damage. Most often it is used when restoring a car after an accident;
• local - used when detecting scratches, chips and other minor damages.

Car body repair technology depends on the level of malfunctions. At a high level using full recovery, special equipment is required.

This type of body restoration can be done at home. Local repair does not require laborious actions, and is used to repair minor damage. Body repair includes restoration of:

• scratches and chips;
• small dents;
• early stage of metal rust.

External body repairs are performed using:

External repair cannot eliminate the dimensional damage to the elements. Additional tools for airbrushing and glass cloth processing may be required.

In most cases, the restoration of the body by an overhaul method cannot be performed independently. Its implementation requires professional equipment and special skills. This type of restoration work involves the dismantling of the car.Its purpose is to detect all defects and minor damage. During the restoration, even minor elements are removed.

To detect hidden defects, contact welding zones are drilled out.

Welding works are carried out upon detection:

• corrosion of parts;
• cracks in the body structure;
• deep deformation of parts.

Overhaul is not complete without replacing damaged structural elements.

The main tool used to restore the car body is the slipway. This tool is constructed with high strength values ​​sufficient for power work. The main alignment action is to drag. It involves the use of a system of fasteners acting on points of the structure, under pressure on which the body part takes on its original shape. This task involves a high level of complexity, which is difficult to cope with in the absence of experience.

The slipway provides the measurements required for accurate repair work. Geometry alignment is carried out in stages:

1. Secure the vehicle on the slipway platform.
2. After calculating the points on the machines, the rig is attached to them.
3. Start slipway installation.

After starting, the slipway and rigging automatically pulls the damage into the desired shape. The equipment assumes the use of a computer program that calculates the required level of effort and an indicator for measuring the rack.

The advantage of the slipway installation is that it does not violate the quality of the metal in the fault zones during their elimination.

Do-it-yourself car body repair of car dents is carried out in three ways:

1. With glue. Straightening or editing is done using the Pops-a-Dent kit. It includes a heat gun, silicone glue, special rods. After applying the glue and fixing the rods, wait until it hardens. Then carefully pull out the dents along with the rods.
2. Using a vacuum. The main special tool is a vacuum suction cup. It attaches to the surface of the dent, creating a vacuum. The dent can then be pulled out without risk of damaging the coating surface. Using vacuum pads is a paint-free way to remove dents.
3. PDR technology. With the help of special levers, which are inserted through the technological holes of the car, it is possible to reach large dents and remove them by extrusion.

The last method is not recommended for doing it yourself. PDR technology is used by those who have good skills in using professional equipment.

If standard local body repair fails, patches are used. They are used to seal holes in the car body. The patch allows you to repair through rust, if the hole diameter does not exceed 8-10 centimeters. Otherwise, the part is completely replaced.

Before attaching the patch, the edges of the hole are processed. The patch itself must have a diameter exceeding the size of the damage (welded overlapping). For its manufacture, thin metal is used. For fastening, a continuous seam is used. It is recommended to use semi-automatic welding machines.

Scratches and chips are removed with minor body repairs. It involves the use of paint and polish. Additionally, you can apply a primer. The surface is sanded, then a protective coating is applied. New technologies provide sanding, after which the abrasion will not be visible. Cosmetic repairs are easy to do at home.

The paint must match the color of the body finish. Otherwise, the surface of the machine will look unpresentable.

For painting in accordance with the technology of car repair, you need to use only substances designed to cover the surface of the car. In some cases, several stages of coloring are required. After body repair and painting, the surface is thoroughly washed.

The painted machine is polished. Grinding is carried out with soft abrasives only after the paint has completely dried.

The body of a modern car is a complex structure that performs many important functions. Its renovation is the other side of the coin of importance and functionality. It is complex and time consuming.

Conditionally body repair can be divided into two stages. The first is the restoration of the body geometry, the elimination of dents, the replacement of irreparable elements. The second is body painting.

Particular attention should be paid to restoring the geometry and rigidity of the hidden underbody. It is these elements that are responsible for the safety and driving characteristics of the vehicle. All suspension elements are attached to it.

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It is difficult to connect body elements by electronic welding, but real. Moreover, the quality of such a connection is very low.

If the metal is not allowed to cool during welding, then the body may move, which will have to be additionally putty. Moreover, such defects cannot always be corrected with putty.

The first step is to replace the doors, then the fenders and sills are exposed. This is the only way to avoid the formation of gaps.

This often happens if one body part is painted without a smooth transition to another. Even if the paint is matched exactly to the original, the old paint on the body has a change in hue, which is associated with fading in the sun and other environmental factors.

They appear with poor-quality car putty and its insufficient drying. Usually they appear after repairs, when the car is in the sun. Usually it is necessary to re-polish the putty after that.

This is the relief of the applied paint. After painting, there is usually shagreen on the body, but it is removed by polishing. But sometimes there is one that cannot be removed by polishing. Usually the defect occurs when the paint is not applied correctly, at a high temperature in the chamber, or viscous paint.

Usually occurs if the car is not painted in a special chamber. But when painting in a dirty chamber, it also has a place to be.

Deepenings from the penetration of silicone, which had to be cut off with a special knife.

Appears if you work with a grinder at high speed or grind the same place for too long, not allowing the varnish to cool.

If the welds are poorly cleaned and primed, then rust can appear in these places, which manifests itself through the paintwork.

By doing car body repair in particular, welding work, then for welding you need to use a semiautomatic device or argon welding. With the help of such welding, metal up to 1 mm thick is cooked and the possibility of burning through the body elements is excluded.

Body damage can be light, medium, or severe. Straightening usually does not require special skills and, using professional tools and materials, everyone will be able to do it. Only certain difficulties and the need for skills can arise during straightening work after medium to complex damage to the body.

You need to paint the car with fresh paint. The primer will help you identify irregularities and putty them with a finishing filler. It is possible to paint only after the putty and primer are completely dry.

Use a special spray gun for painting. The paint should dry in the special conditions of the camera without direct sunlight.Polishing is permissible only after the paintwork is completely dry.

Many of us would like to engage in body repair, but we do not dare for reasons: “it’s difficult”, “it is expensive”, “screw it up”, “I don’t know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not expensive at all. Let's figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.

Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting of the damaged site is already necessary.

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Painting can be of two types: partial painting of the car (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).

Local car painting it is necessary in those cases when it is necessary to restore only a certain part of the body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.
Painting the entire part as a whole done only when necessary if the scratches or dents are deep and take up a large area on the car body parts.

All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing to think about is spray paint. And then the question arises:

Answer: Of course you can paint, but you cannot paint with high quality. Why ?

Firstly, the spray can has an uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint a car with high quality. In addition, the ink jet is too strong, so it is easy to get ink smudges as a result.

Secondly, it is very rare to get into the color from a spray can, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time. Let's say you were able to pick the color as accurately as possible, paint it, and the result suits you completely. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from weathering and can be easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can completely forget about normal polishing.

It is important to remember that painting a car must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be spots, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.

Thus, if we are talking about painting from a spray can, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics.
But if you are still in the mood for such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and do at least 3 layers. Spray paint video can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but forget about full spray painting of the car.

Now, let's analyze how to paint a car with high quality at home:

To apply a high-quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), a spray gun (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the whole machine with paper or foil. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it remains there forever.We degrease the surface well and apply in a couple of layers.

We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the ground to the touch is perfectly smooth and even with the body, the preparation process for painting can be considered complete.

Remember that a correctly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!

High quality paint the car is possible only if it works choose the right color... The paint should match perfectly with the previous coating. It is best to contact a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.

Before painting, you need to decide exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. It is imperative to remove all gloss from the wing (mat). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or a special scotch-bright sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). We degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky napkin to remove small specks.
Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, it is recommended to nail down the dust with a water spray before painting.

Car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light-colored paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the primer.
So, first coat of paint spreads out onto the ground, overlapping it and the wing itself a little.
Second layer apply in a minute and in another minute third, basic. Air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure during painting will not lead to anything good.
After the third layer we get a matte painted wing:

At room temperature, the paint dries for about 15 minutes. If, after drying, irregularities come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. You cannot touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply wipe off the paint.

Further detail you need varnish... It is recommended to gently walk again with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand. It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
You can varnish at will, either while the paint is not completely dry, or wait for final drying.

First coat of varnish (base) should be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part.
Second coat of varnish (main) we apply after 2 minutes exposure, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.

If dust got under the varnish, then polishing will help to correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!

Car painting cost, and in particular the wing that was discussed in the photo report, is:

1. Emery - 100 rubles;
2. Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
3. Putty - 50 rubles;
4. Primer - 70 rubles;
5. Paint - 300 rubles;
6. Varnish - 200 rubles;

Total 900 rubles.

The main problem with silver shades is the so-called apple-like effect, where the paint is blotting. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is overlapped with another, the shade changes and as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last layer of paint, the painter increases the air flow in the spray gun and applies the last layer of paint using the spray method, observing that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.

After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (base) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color in places looks like black. The reason is an insufficiently painted surface.

If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.

Varnish smudges can occur due to too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.

How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.

Video of painting a car in a garage:

Video painting a car by a professional:

Of course, it is impossible to paint a car locally without having the initial skills and experience. But you can always practice on an old bumper or paint a VAZ car, which is no longer afraid of painter's mistakes.
Do not be afraid and do not panic, believe in yourself, because this is just a piece of iron! By the way, there are other ways to deal with rust.

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Carrying out body repairs on your own in a garage is not easy, since this procedure includes several stages, each of which requires a specialized tool and knowledge of new technologies for body repair. However, this task is not impossible. This section contains many recommendations for performing various types of bodywork with a photo of the main stages. For beginners or inexperienced car enthusiasts, video lessons in car body repair may be useful.

Having learned about the techniques and modern technologies of car body repair in garage conditions, you can not only choose the right body part, but also install it on the car, eliminate the center of corrosion, straighten the door, fender or hood with your own hands, remove a small dent on the car, right install thresholds and even do welding bodywork with your own hands.

Independent body work, depending on the defects, can be divided into several types:

• complex body repair;
• minor or local repairs;
• do-it-yourself body polishing and painting.

Complex do-it-yourself car body repair includes such steps as body straightening, straightening medium and large dents, replacing body elements, welding the body with a semiautomatic device, restoring the geometry of the car. The best presentation of these works is given by a video of car body repair.

Small do-it-yourself car body repairs include removing small dents without painting, repairing paintwork chips, removing scratches on a car, repairing corroded parts of the body.

During operation, the car is constantly exposed to the environment. Rain, hail, solar radiation, snow, wind, stones - all this negatively affects the quality of the paintwork. As a result, defects are formed on the body. If they are not removed in time, they can become hotbeds of corrosion. It is in this case that minor repairs of the car body will be needed.

Small self-repair of a car body is advisable if the warranty period for servicing the car has been exhausted. It does not require expensive tools or equipment, a set that is in every garage is enough: an angle grinder, a spatula, sponges.

Local car body repair is aimed at removing scratches, chips, corrosion centers, repairing small dents without painting. There are many videos on the Web that demonstrate these processes quite clearly.Small body repair technologies for Mercedes, Nissan, Gazelle or Niva are not much different.

Most often, local body repair is reduced to repairing chips or scratches. They are removed by filling. No specialized skills are required for this process. First, the defective place of the car must be thoroughly washed with soap or car shampoo. Then the scratch or chip is degreased with White Spirit, you can also use gasoline for this.

Then the putty can be applied using a soft spatula. You can also apply it with your finger. It is necessary to use a special putty designed for bodywork. Watch the video below on how the filling process is performed correctly.

Drying ambassadors The putty damaged area should be sanded with fine-grained emery paper, dust residues should be removed, primed and painted locally.

The reason for the need for a complete body repair is most often one - it is a serious accident. In this case, the following defects may be observed:

• serious damage to the body;
• changing the geometry of the body;
• deformation of the subframe.

In the service station, for complex body repair of such damage, professional equipment is used: slipways, automated computer installations. Thanks to them, you don't have to worry about how to make a complete replacement of the car body or fix a huge dent. When deformation of hard-to-reach places, such as the bottom, the machine is most often overturned. Inexperienced motorists will be helped by a video of how the body repair of a shape-shifter is done in auto repair shops, how to correct the body or restore the body geometry.

Nevertheless, if you have at least the basic skills of straightening and welding, complex bodywork can be done with your own hands. The approach to work is monotonous and does not depend on the make of the car, regardless of whether you need a Gazelle body repair with your own hands or a UAZ Loaf body repair. The main thing to remember is that the technology of restoring the body geometry with your own hands must be followed at all stages of the repair.

Now craftsmen are even posting videos on how to restore the body geometry with their own hands using a homemade slipway. This device allows multidirectional forces to be applied to the body elements, thereby effectively eliminating the consequences of side impacts. In fact, only part of the slipway is easy to make with your own hands - this is the frame. You still have to buy a hydraulic unit.

Preparation for painting. The body is cleaned of traces of old paint, surface irregularities are filled with putty, then the surface is sanded and primer is applied.

Car painting. This is the final step in any body repair. It is done with your own hands only in well-lit rooms so that all defects are visible. For work, you will need a spray gun. If not a complete repainting of the body is carried out, but a local painting of the wing or hood, the rest of the body will have to be tightly covered with a film.

The bodies of modern cars are mostly made of galvanized metal, which prevents corrosion from developing, although with deep chips the zinc layer can also be damaged. How to check if the body is galvanized? It's very simple, just look at the passport data of the car or carefully scrape off the paint from some unobtrusive place in the body, not forgetting to seal it up later.

In the process of work, it is necessary to use protective equipment for eyes and hands: glasses, rubber gloves, so as not to be exposed to the risk of chemicals getting on the body.

So, if the body is completely damaged by rust or it appears in many places, the first step is to wash the car well with car shampoo.

After the car has dried, all problem areas must be treated with a coarse-grained sandpaper or a brush with metal bristles should be used for this. The use of an angle grinder is not recommended as the grinding discs remove the rough metal layer. For this procedure, only discs with a plastic sole are suitable. You can also plant the abrasive wheel shown in the photo on the drill.

You can also use a rust converter to repair a rusty car body. It must be applied to all defective areas, and after a few hours, rinse off with a stream of water or a wet rag.

Further, a primer is applied to the surface of the car, cleaned from corrosion, after which the irregularities are sealed with putty. After sanding the dried filler, the surface can be painted.

If a hole has formed in a body element, putty cannot be dispensed with. The easiest way to do such a body repair on your own is to install a patch. Naturally, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 cm, if the hole is larger, it will most likely require a complete replacement of the body element.

How to repair a leaky car body? First of all, the place of damage on the body must be thoroughly washed and cleaned of rust. Next, you need to cut out a patch of slightly larger diameter than the hole, from thin metal, for example from a tin can.

Then, using a powerful soldering iron, you need to tin the surface from the outside of the hole and the edge of the patch with tin. Phosphoric acid or a rust converter based on it can be used as a flux.

At the end, the patch must be soldered to the hole with a continuous seam, after which the patch must be hammered (drown). Clean the protruding edges of the patch with coarse sandpaper. Then the defective place is putty, primed and prepared for painting.

It is also possible to weld the patch to the body with a continuous seam, but this will require a welding machine and skills in working with it.

So historical it has become a tradition that VAZ cars are the most common in the post-Soviet space. Therefore, it is worth talking about the weak points of their body and the most common breakdowns.

Body repair of "kopeck" and other early VAZ models (2101, 21011, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105) is most often caused by the considerable age of these cars. For several decades of their operation, corrosion of body elements is inevitable, and if they have not yet had to be completely changed, then remove local rust for sure. The fenders, the bottom and the luggage compartment, which have probably been digested more than once, are very vulnerable places.

Body repair of the VAZ 2106 and VAZ 2107 most often consists in eliminating the corrosion of the wings, the bottom under the front seats, sills and the luggage compartment, especially if during the operation of the car wheel arches were not installed and the drainage holes were not cleaned. It is necessary to start by removing rust, it is necessary to sand these places with sandpaper or treat with a rust converter. Holes are closed by welding or patching. Straightening is performed if necessary. Prepared defective spots are putty with mastic with a special anti-corrosion compound. Then the problem areas are rubbed with sandpaper and degreased with a silicone remover. Corroded areas can be additionally treated with a putty / hardener mixture to level the surface of the body element. You can prepare for painting. The body repair of the VAZ 2107, aimed at eliminating corrosion, is over. Numerous videos of the body repair of the VAZ 2107 clearly demonstrate the stages of the work being carried out.

Do-it-yourself Niva body repair difficulties lie in the peculiarities of its operation. The bottom of the car is most susceptible to corrosion, and through holes can form in the absence of control for a long time.Another weak point of the VAZ 2121 is the spars - under difficult operating conditions, they tend to crack. In addition to cracks, the side members are also highly susceptible to corrosion. Reinforcement of the floor and side members should be carried out with sheet metal at least 3-4 mm thick. We advise you to watch a video of Niva 2121 body repair with your own hands in order to navigate the sequence of stages of work.

Do-it-yourself Oka body repair very often comes down to the need to replace thresholds, the strength of which does not stand up to criticism. It is also necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the bottom and arches, which are most susceptible to corrosive processes.

Do-it-yourself 2109 body repair may be necessary for several reasons, depending on the operating conditions and the degree of damage. Local repairs may involve removing chips and scratches. If it is necessary to correct the geometry of the body, it will be necessary to carry out polishing and painting work. In terms of the spread of corrosion, the wings and sills are considered weak points, and very often the body repair of the VAZ 2109 is aimed at eliminating their defects.

Most often, the wheel arches are subjected to body repairs for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, VAZ 2115. These places are very susceptible to rot, so they are simply replaced. Since you need to crawl into these hard-to-reach places by welding, you will have to completely disassemble the interior of the car, up to removing the trim, so that there are no flammable substances left. Also, quite often, do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2110 consists in replacing the bottom and sills. This work is very painstaking, so you should first watch the video of the VAZ 2010 body repair.