Do-it-yourself body repair oki

Oka's car passed 150 thousand km in the most severe conditions. On a run of 140 tkm, the cage nut of the subframe was torn out - a washer was welded in at the service. After some time, it was discovered that the floor amplifier burst in half and began to “breathe”. The car stood for several months until hands reached it - the work is rather dreary - to replace the floor amplifier, you need to remove the entire power unit and disconnect the subframe.

Further, the photo shows the engine compartment of the car (the power unit is dismantled), the red arrow shows the place of the break of the body amplifier - it can be seen that the part has begun to move away from the engine shield panel. The salon has to be disassembled, otherwise everything will burn out during welding.

The new floor amplifier is shown below. Cage nuts and reinforcement plates are clearly visible.
Since the machine is noise and vibration insulated, this created some difficulties. I had to dismantle all the noise insulation from the floor area where the welding work was carried out. To dismantle the vibroplast, a thermal gun was used - only after warming up, the vibroplast can be peeled off.

Next on the photo is an old floor amplifier. It burst in half. A welded washer is visible (welded from below, without cutting the floor in the cabin). The second nut is in a deplorable state - cracks have appeared around it, it is not known how long it would have lasted.

After welding, we again glue the floor in the cabin with vibroplastic, put isolon and noise-insulating mats. The internal cavity of the amplifier is filled with anticorrosive material (Movil) through the technological holes.

Since the mileage is already quite large (150 tkm), the brakes and the steering rack have undergone a general revision. The rail was overhauled, the rail shaft was ground. After the repair, the steering turned out to be simply amazing.
The brake machines were also shaken up - they put new calipers, new brake discs, hoses. The hubs were replaced with new ones. The wheel bearings were also changed - the old ones went through a lot (only one bearing was changed) and although they did not hum, after opening they found that all the treadmills were covered with dents. New bearings were treated with XADO repair and restoration grease.
The new amplifier was welded on, having previously welded the reinforcing plates of the nuts.

Hello to all! As promised saw the 2nd part completely. In this post, the actions are already taking place in 2014. How long did I wait for the warming to get busy with the car, and now it has come.

I began my renovation with the continuation of cosmetic and welding works.

To begin with, I decided to make her evil eyes, so to speak, Bad boy hood) It turned out excellent metal took 1.5mm. Cut out a stencil from a sheet of iron and grinded on emery, then welded them to the hood.

The bottom of the doors is a little rotten, I had to cook.

I cut a corner out of the tin and tried it on.

I welded it to the door, everything turned out pretty neatly. Drops from welding grind off with a grinder. The same operation was performed with the other door, and he also welded all the holes on the rear firecracker except for the lock. Now there will be no rear wiper and OKA emblem too.

I cleaned all the mushrooms on the back.

Disassembly began. During the evening, my friend and I scattered it all.

Here is actually the best friend as an assistant)

After dismantling, putty began. I started with the wings. The first layer was an aluminum filler to build strength and the like. How I was tortured to rub it, but the result was worth it)

Here is the end result. The second layer was soft putty. This is where I finished with the wings.

Then he began to putty all the doors.

I was overwhelmed with the roof, but in 2 days it was ready)

Hood. The highlight of the car.I also filmed it, it took a day to work with it.

With the putty, it seems finished) We turn to the painting work. The car was washed with four hundred sandpaper, it was washed inside too, since the color will be different. Then there is the ground, unfortunately there is no photo of the car in the ground. The wash-out begins again, only not of the old paint, but of the soil. And finally, what I have been waiting for so long begins, painting)

The first photos after painting :) I was happy, but it was not me who painted it, but my stepfather. I got such a skill later when I painted a car for a friend) The color is called “Medeo 428” I wanted something unusual that would stand out among the gray mice.

And of course an autograph without it)

Further assembly of the car, unfortunately there is no photo either.

Fully assembled from the outside. New bumpers and every little thing. The salon is still empty. Photo at 2.5 megapixels) Sorry for the quality.

Covering the sidewalls. Dermantin got it from his grandmother in the closet, he put everything on staples and glue.

The finished version also wrapped around the torpedo and rear pieces.

The structure of the body frame and its sections are shown in Fig. 8-1, 8-2

Rice. 8-2. Main body sections (side view)

Damaged body straightening

A significant part of the repair work on cars, especially after road accidents, falls on the repair of bodies. In most cases, this requires checking the geometry of the attachment points, components and assemblies of the vehicle chassis. The main reference dimensions for checking the geometry are shown in Fig. 8-3.

Rice. 8-3. The main reference dimensions of the attachment points of the units: Χ, Υ, Ζ - αphase lines; О - four base holes with a diameter of 15 mm; 1 - lower radiator supports; 2 - upper support of the radiator; 3 - fastening of the power unit subframe; 4 - centers of the upper hinges of the struts; 5 - fastening the steering bracket; 6 - fastening the gear lever; 7 - fastening the parking brake lever bracket; 8 - fastening the bracket for the left arm of the rear suspension; 9 - center of attachment of the right arm of the rear suspension; 10 - centers of the upper supports of the rear suspension shock absorbers; 11 - centers of attachment of compression buffers

Damage to the car body can be very different. Therefore, the repair rules in each individual case should be different, the most suitable for these damages. However, there are general requirements as well. For example, it is necessary to maximize the ability to straighten damaged panels. It is advisable to avoid excessive thermal effects on the metal, so as not to interfere with the factory welding and anti-corrosion protection of the body. Body faceplates should only be removed in extreme cases to locate damage, straighten or align the body. In cases of significant damage to the body, it is recommended to remove all interior upholstery parts to facilitate the measurement, control and installation of hydraulic and screw jacks to eliminate distortion and damage. By editing, the original linear dimensions and locations of the power units, the dimensions of the openings of the wind window, hood, and tailgate are restored. The protrusion of front surfaces and removable parts relative to adjacent panels is eliminated by their fitting and adjustment.

Repair of deformed surfaces of parts

Repair of damaged body parts is carried out by drawing, straightening, straightening with metal shrinkage, cutting out sections (not amenable to repair), making repair inserts from rejected body parts or sheet metal, giving them the shape of a restored part.

The deformed places of the panels are straightened, as a rule, manually using a special tool (metal, plastic, wooden hammers, mandrels of various shapes) and fixtures.

Straightening with heat is used to settle (tighten) highly stretched surfaces. To prevent sudden swelling and deterioration of the mechanical properties, the panels are heated only to 600-650 ° C (cherry red).The diameter of the heated spot should be no more than 20-30 mm.

The contraction of the surfaces is carried out with a carbon electrode of a semiautomatic welding machine or a gas torch. The metal is heated from the periphery to the center of the defective area, upsetting the heated areas with blows of a wooden mallet or hammer using a flat support or anvil.

The heating and settling operations are repeated until the desired panel surface is obtained.

Irregularities in the panels are leveled with polyester fillers, thermoplastics, cold curing epoxy mastics or solder.

Polyester putties such as "Hempropol-P" or PE-0085 form reliable joints with panels cleaned to metal. These putties are two-component materials consisting of an unsaturated polyester resin and a hardener that catalyzes the quick hardening of the mixture. The temperature in the working room should not be lower than 18 ° C. The prepared putty must be used within 10 minutes. Final hardening - 60 minutes after application. The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 mm.

Thermoplastic is available in powder form. Thermoplastic acquires the elastic properties required for application to the metal surface of the panel at a temperature of 150-160 ° C. The surface to be filled must be thoroughly cleaned of rust, scale, old paint and other contaminants. Thermoplastic adhesion is better on rough metal surfaces. To apply thermoplastic, the area to be leveled is heated to 170-180 ° C, after which the first layer of powder is applied, which is rolled with a metal roller. Then a second layer is applied and so on until the unevenness is filled. Each layer is rolled until a monolithic layer of plastic mass is obtained, and after hardening it can be processed using conventional methods.

Solders such as POSSu 18-2 or POSSu 25-2 are used to level areas previously filled with solder, as well as to build up the edges of parts and eliminate gaps.

In case of significant damage, the panels are replaced with new ones using gas-shielded electric welding.

Removal and installation of the front wing

To remove the wing, remove the socket with the direction indicator lamp. Remove the self-tapping screws securing the wing to the body: three screws 2 (Fig. 8-4) on the upper flange, one screw 1 at the bottom of the front of the wing and at the bottom of the rear, and one screw 3 for fastening to the front stack, which can be accessed through the gap between the strut and open door.

Rice. 8-4. Removing the front wing: 1, 2, 3 - points of attachment of the wing with screws

Carefully detach the fender and remove the insulating gaskets from where the fender contacts the mudguard.

Install the wing in reverse order. It is recommended to replace the insulating gaskets with new ones. Before the final tightening of the screws using the enlarged holes, adjust the wing for clearances and protrusion with other body elements.

After replacing the fender, pay attention to the condition of the anti-corrosion coating under the front fender. If necessary, restore the coating by applying D-11A plastisol or BPM-1 mastic.

So. I cook a wonderful Oka car. I want to ask who has already cooked it? I am interested in the Rear Panel, I live in the city. Orel and nowhere else can I find such a detail.

What is a ”tailgate” ?? Top, bottom, opening of the tailgate, the place of attachment of the beam. Misunderstanding, in more detail pliz (desirably with a photo).

• Posts: 217
• Location: Tomsk region
• Oka 11113

In Serpukhov, it seems. Article 1111-5601080

This page is searched for by queries: Oka body repair, Oka forum, Oka discussion.

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Preparation of the body for welding VAZ-11113 Oka. Internal sidewall repair.

The place where you will paint must be dry, draft-free, warm and free of dust.
Initially, you need to wash the body well. Before washing, it is advisable to remove all plastic parts from the body. This will eliminate the presence of moisture in crevices and gaps. It is best to wash the car with a strong water pressure.
Next, you need to inspect the car and find the right paint. In the case of a complete painting of a car, you can choose any paint similar to the previous one (shades are still not indicated in the data sheet). If the painting is partial, then you need to contact a special laboratory, where they can choose the required color.

Former students of technical universities, and now, as a rule, successful leading engineers, are well acquainted with the subject of "strength of materials". For many students, this subject was not a bastion that was not taken, followed, at best, by retaking the exam, at worst, expulsion from the university and replenishment of the ranks of the invincible Russian army. For those who have forgotten this subject a bit. Due to the fact that it was not useful in future labor activity or was not studied at all, since the chosen profile of the specialty did not require strong knowledge of this subject. Therefore, it is not a sin to remind. It will be about the ability of any material to withstand the external influence of any other bodies on it. Under the body, we will take the material in the form of the body of our car. Under “other bodies” we consider the Russian road with all its “charms”, as well as inertial forces and other side objects, including various bodies of oncoming and passing vehicles. Having considered the actions of all these factors and opposing forces in a single complex, the selection committee may have the right to give an assessment "unsatisfactory" to the designers of an automobile model that has not passed the necessary tests.

Why do you need to strengthen the body.

For the perception of the narrated material, we will give an illustrative example with a packaging cardboard box for household appliances, where the inner perimeter of the boxes has foam inserts. In the case of using physical force, twisting the box, we will be able to do this very easily. Having finished gluing the wings of such a box with tape, with a new physical impact it will wrinkle, but more physical effort will be required. Having inserted the longitudinal and transverse struts tightly abutting the sidewalls of the box, it will withstand many strong physical influences, even if it will be played with football instead of a ball. At the same time, it will maintain the integrity of its original design.

Returning to our cars, we are well aware that in the presence of the toughest car body, we will be faced with obtaining deformation of vulnerabilities.Perhaps it will be microscopic damage, but it will be. Another vivid example can be cited when a domestic car with five years of service experience is lifted to a certain height using a jack. Then we will make sure that in eighty percent of such cases, the doors will be jammed in the openings. This will indicate the deformation of the body. One of the main strength characteristics of an automobile body is its torsional rigidity. In the case when the body stiffness is insignificant, then the turns of the car will occur with some delay, due to a slowdown in the reaction of the car structure. The metal in the areas where the levers are attached will introduce a mismatch in the operation of the rear and front suspensions. Due to constant twisting, premature aging of the body occurs, welded seams diverge, and metal corrosion occurs intensively. If we consider cars only in this aspect, then the strongest in terms of body rigidity are three-door coupes and hatchbacks, which resist bending as much as possible. The worst indicators in this regard are station wagons and minivans.

Strengthening the car body depends on the specialization of the vehicle and the financial capabilities of the car owner. There are many options for this, ranging from the installation of stretch marks and spacers.

From all this abundance of various modifications, we choose: rods, kerchiefs, rear, lower, front spacers.

Front struts

A popular way to reinforce the body is with the front struts. The advantages of this design include ease of installation, reasonable price, increased rigidity in the front of the car, and finally, visual aesthetics. The use of such a mount depends on the purpose of the vehicle. Its advantages are obvious - ease of installation, low price, visual appeal and a fairly strong increase in the rigidity of the front of the car. This method of strengthening the body for VAZs of the "tenth" family is not suitable. Since on these modifications of the models not only the racks are "dancing", but the entire front shield is subject to deformation.

Spacers are offered by the trade in a wide range, but their main difference from each other is in the material from which they are made and the method of fastening. The gussets are usually used to strengthen wheel arches, stiffeners throughout the body and suspension struts. Such auto body reinforcement is usually used on sports car models.

Bottom struts

The lower struts have an effect on improving the car's handling, increasing stability, increasing the life of the body, but the installation itself is very laborious.

The rear struts have an effect on improving the maneuverability and stability of the vehicle. Installing and removing the rear struts is straightforward. The rear strut is also quite easy to install and dismantle.

There is the existence and application of folk methods of strengthening the body, when the holes of the side members and thresholds are filled with polyurethane foam. In terms of value, it is cheap. An advantage of this design is an increase in rigidity, a disadvantage is an increase in the activation of corrosion, the lack of ventilation. The risk of fire increases during welding. The choice is up to car owners.

3-09-2011, 06:30 | Zinchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich

There are a number of simple rules, the adherence to which allows you to maximize the resource of the automatic transmission.

Alexy59 »20 Mar 2014, 18:52

Homa »20 Mar 2014, 19:53

Hello Alexy!
This means that among the rotten people - Okovodov - replenishment!
I did not expect that there is something more rotten than my Akushka! And it looks like they drove it to the last?
In general, the sight of such devastation + repairs with foam and self-tapping screws causes cruel despondency.
I will say banality - without new spare parts, repairs will become more complicated.

What is your task in terms of repairs?
And what kind of piece of iron is on her doorstep?

Dear Alexy!
I have for you:
Two requests:
Complete your profile so we know where you are from.
If not difficult, go here viewtopic.php? F = 21 & t = 112
And one message:
Our strict but fair moderator is Yuri

even if you do something bad, do it well

Yuri »20 Mar 2014, 22:40

Alexy59 »21 Mar 2014, 10:24

mmlevin »21 Mar 2014, 11:05

Yuri »21 Mar 2014, 11:44

Alexy59 »21 Mar 2014, 11:56 am

started by repairing the left threshold. put a new threshold on top of the old one and circled around the contour, cut off with a grinder

it turned out to be an uncomfortable diagonal cut, and even with steps.

and here is a photo of the rear sidewall with lining

Alexy59 »21 Mar 2014, 12:02

Alexy59 »21 Mar 2014, 12:44

In the process of repairing the threshold, first it was necessary to cut out the old one, or rather its remnants, which go under the middle bottom. I simply cut the corner where the middle bottom meets the inner sidewall with a grinder, and then uprooted the remnants of the threshold connector. After that, he brought in a new sill connector, which he grabbed to the inner sidewall. At first I wanted to do it like an “adult”. drilled holes in the connector and tried to honestly weld through them to the inner sidewall. But it was not there. In some places there was a gap and the metal did not fit very tightly to the sidewall. In addition, the iron of the sidewall was corroded, although I cleaned it. Well, and most of all, these first welded points were my first ones and I had no experience yet. And it turned out not a beautiful welding ala an electric rivet, but some kind of garbage. and so then I just started to grab to the edge of the iron. Thus, today the rear of the sill connector is attached only to the inner sidewall and that is not so hot. then the truth on the other side of the inner threshold will be connected to the middle bottom. besides these compounds there are no more others. maybe Homa will tell you how it should be in that place CORRECT. I will be very grateful.

Here is a photo of that place, which I talked about during the fitting process.

Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. To avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, hydraulic puller, engine hanging device.

After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of the overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original instructions of the manufacturer.

In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

• Restoring the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
• Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
• Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
• Processing the head of the VAZ 11113 cylinder block.
• Restoring the tightness of the unit by welding.
• Correction of the connecting rod geometry.
• Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited. If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the processing depth of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.