Do-it-yourself body repair oki

In detail: do-it-yourself oki body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Oka's car passed 150 thousand km in the most severe conditions. On a run of 140 tkm, the cage nut of the subframe was torn out - a washer was welded in at the service. After some time, it was discovered that the floor amplifier burst in half and began to “breathe”. The car stood for several months until hands reached it - the work is rather dreary - to replace the floor amplifier, you need to remove the entire power unit and disconnect the subframe.

Further, the photo shows the engine compartment of the car (the power unit is dismantled), the red arrow shows the place of the break of the body amplifier - it can be seen that the part has begun to move away from the engine shield panel. The salon has to be disassembled, otherwise everything will burn out during welding.

The new floor amplifier is shown below. Cage nuts and reinforcement plates are clearly visible.
Since the machine is noise and vibration insulated, this created some difficulties. I had to dismantle all the noise insulation from the floor area where the welding work was carried out. To dismantle the vibroplast, a thermal gun was used - only after warming up, the vibroplast can be peeled off.

Next on the photo is an old floor amplifier. It burst in half. A welded washer is visible (welded from below, without cutting the floor in the cabin). The second nut is in a deplorable state - cracks have appeared around it, it is not known how long it would have lasted.

After welding, we again glue the floor in the cabin with vibroplastic, put isolon and noise-insulating mats. The internal cavity of the amplifier is filled with anticorrosive material (Movil) through the technological holes.

Since the mileage is already quite large (150 tkm), the brakes and the steering rack have undergone a general revision. The rail was overhauled, the rail shaft was ground. After the repair, the steering turned out to be simply amazing.
The brake machines were also shaken up - they put new calipers, new brake discs, hoses. The hubs were replaced with new ones. The wheel bearings were also changed - the old ones went through a lot (only one bearing was changed) and although they did not hum, after opening they found that all the treadmills were covered with dents. New bearings were treated with XADO repair and restoration grease.
The new amplifier was welded on, having previously welded the reinforcing plates of the nuts.

Video (click to play).

Hello to all! As promised saw the 2nd part completely. In this post, the actions are already taking place in 2014. How long did I wait for the warming to get busy with the car, and now it has come.

I began my renovation with the continuation of cosmetic and welding works.

To begin with, I decided to make her evil eyes, so to speak, Bad boy hood) It turned out excellent metal took 1.5mm. Cut out a stencil from a sheet of iron and grinded on emery, then welded them to the hood.

The bottom of the doors is a little rotten, I had to cook.

I cut a corner out of the tin and tried it on.

I welded it to the door, everything turned out pretty neatly. Drops from welding grind off with a grinder. The same operation was performed with the other door, and he also welded all the holes on the rear firecracker except for the lock. Now there will be no rear wiper and OKA emblem too.

I cleaned all the mushrooms on the back.

Disassembly began. During the evening, my friend and I scattered it all.

Here is actually the best friend as an assistant)

After dismantling, putty began. I started with the wings. The first layer was an aluminum filler to build strength and the like. How I was tortured to rub it, but the result was worth it)

Here is the end result. The second layer was soft putty. This is where I finished with the wings.

Then he began to putty all the doors.

I was overwhelmed with the roof, but in 2 days it was ready)

Hood. The highlight of the car.I also filmed it, it took a day to work with it.

With the putty, it seems finished) We turn to the painting work. The car was washed with four hundred sandpaper, it was washed inside too, since the color will be different. Then there is the ground, unfortunately there is no photo of the car in the ground. The wash-out begins again, only not of the old paint, but of the soil. And finally, what I have been waiting for so long begins, painting)

The first photos after painting :) I was happy, but it was not me who painted it, but my stepfather. I got such a skill later when I painted a car for a friend) The color is called “Medeo 428” I wanted something unusual that would stand out among the gray mice.

And of course an autograph without it)

Further assembly of the car, unfortunately there is no photo either.

Fully assembled from the outside. New bumpers and every little thing. The salon is still empty. Photo at 2.5 megapixels) Sorry for the quality.

Covering the sidewalls. Dermantin got it from his grandmother in the closet, he put everything on staples and glue.

The finished version also wrapped around the torpedo and rear pieces.

The structure of the body frame and its sections are shown in Fig. 8-1, 8-2

Rice. 8-2. Main body sections (side view)

Damaged body straightening

A significant part of the repair work on cars, especially after road accidents, falls on the repair of bodies. In most cases, this requires checking the geometry of the attachment points, components and assemblies of the vehicle chassis. The main reference dimensions for checking the geometry are shown in Fig. 8-3.

Rice. 8-3. The main reference dimensions of the attachment points of the units: Χ, Υ, Ζ - αphase lines; О - four base holes with a diameter of 15 mm; 1 - lower radiator supports; 2 - upper support of the radiator; 3 - fastening of the power unit subframe; 4 - centers of the upper hinges of the struts; 5 - fastening the steering bracket; 6 - fastening the gear lever; 7 - fastening the parking brake lever bracket; 8 - fastening the bracket for the left arm of the rear suspension; 9 - center of attachment of the right arm of the rear suspension; 10 - centers of the upper supports of the rear suspension shock absorbers; 11 - centers of attachment of compression buffers

Damage to the car body can be very different. Therefore, the repair rules in each individual case should be different, the most suitable for these damages. However, there are general requirements as well. For example, it is necessary to maximize the ability to straighten damaged panels. It is advisable to avoid excessive thermal effects on the metal, so as not to interfere with the factory welding and anti-corrosion protection of the body. Body faceplates should only be removed in extreme cases to locate damage, straighten or align the body. In cases of significant damage to the body, it is recommended to remove all interior upholstery parts to facilitate the measurement, control and installation of hydraulic and screw jacks to eliminate distortion and damage. By editing, the original linear dimensions and locations of the power units, the dimensions of the openings of the wind window, hood, and tailgate are restored. The protrusion of front surfaces and removable parts relative to adjacent panels is eliminated by their fitting and adjustment.

Repair of deformed surfaces of parts

Repair of damaged body parts is carried out by drawing, straightening, straightening with metal shrinkage, cutting out sections (not amenable to repair), making repair inserts from rejected body parts or sheet metal, giving them the shape of a restored part.

The deformed places of the panels are straightened, as a rule, manually using a special tool (metal, plastic, wooden hammers, mandrels of various shapes) and fixtures.

Straightening with heat is used to settle (tighten) highly stretched surfaces. To prevent sudden swelling and deterioration of the mechanical properties, the panels are heated only to 600-650 ° C (cherry red).The diameter of the heated spot should be no more than 20-30 mm.

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The contraction of the surfaces is carried out with a carbon electrode of a semiautomatic welding machine or a gas torch. The metal is heated from the periphery to the center of the defective area, upsetting the heated areas with blows of a wooden mallet or hammer using a flat support or anvil.

The heating and settling operations are repeated until the desired panel surface is obtained.

Irregularities in the panels are leveled with polyester fillers, thermoplastics, cold curing epoxy mastics or solder.

Polyester putties such as "Hempropol-P" or PE-0085 form reliable joints with panels cleaned to metal. These putties are two-component materials consisting of an unsaturated polyester resin and a hardener that catalyzes the quick hardening of the mixture. The temperature in the working room should not be lower than 18 ° C. The prepared putty must be used within 10 minutes. Final hardening - 60 minutes after application. The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 mm.

Thermoplastic is available in powder form. Thermoplastic acquires the elastic properties required for application to the metal surface of the panel at a temperature of 150-160 ° C. The surface to be filled must be thoroughly cleaned of rust, scale, old paint and other contaminants. Thermoplastic adhesion is better on rough metal surfaces. To apply thermoplastic, the area to be leveled is heated to 170-180 ° C, after which the first layer of powder is applied, which is rolled with a metal roller. Then a second layer is applied and so on until the unevenness is filled. Each layer is rolled until a monolithic layer of plastic mass is obtained, and after hardening it can be processed using conventional methods.

Solders such as POSSu 18-2 or POSSu 25-2 are used to level areas previously filled with solder, as well as to build up the edges of parts and eliminate gaps.

In case of significant damage, the panels are replaced with new ones using gas-shielded electric welding.

Removal and installation of the front wing

To remove the wing, remove the socket with the direction indicator lamp. Remove the self-tapping screws securing the wing to the body: three screws 2 (Fig. 8-4) on the upper flange, one screw 1 at the bottom of the front of the wing and at the bottom of the rear, and one screw 3 for fastening to the front stack, which can be accessed through the gap between the strut and open door.

Rice. 8-4. Removing the front wing: 1, 2, 3 - points of attachment of the wing with screws

Carefully detach the fender and remove the insulating gaskets from where the fender contacts the mudguard.

Install the wing in reverse order. It is recommended to replace the insulating gaskets with new ones. Before the final tightening of the screws using the enlarged holes, adjust the wing for clearances and protrusion with other body elements.

After replacing the fender, pay attention to the condition of the anti-corrosion coating under the front fender. If necessary, restore the coating by applying D-11A plastisol or BPM-1 mastic.

So. I cook a wonderful Oka car. I want to ask who has already cooked it? I am interested in the Rear Panel, I live in the city. Orel and nowhere else can I find such a detail.

What is a ”tailgate” ?? Top, bottom, opening of the tailgate, the place of attachment of the beam. Misunderstanding, in more detail pliz (desirably with a photo). Image - DIY body repair oki