Do-it-yourself oka body repair

Oka's car passed 150 thousand kilometers in the most severe conditions. On a run of 140 tkm, the subframe fastening nut was torn out - a washer was welded in at the service. After some time, they discovered that the floor reinforcement burst in half and began to “breathe”. The car stood for several months, until her hands reached her - the work is rather dreary - to replace the floor amplifier, you need to remove the entire power unit and disconnect the subframe.

Further, the photo shows the engine compartment of the car (the power unit was dismantled), the red arrow shows the place where the body amplifier was broken - it can be seen that the part began to move away from the engine shield panel. The salon has to be disassembled, otherwise everything will burn out during welding.

The new floor reinforcement is shown below. Cage nuts and reinforcing plates are clearly visible.
Since the machine is noise and vibration isolated, this created some difficulties. I had to dismantle all the sound insulation from the floor area where the welding work was carried out. To dismantle the vibroplast, a thermal gun was used - only after warming up the vibroplast can be peeled off.

Next in the photo is the old floor amplifier. It cracked in half. A welded washer is visible (welded from below, without cutting the floor in the cabin). The second nut is in a deplorable state - cracks appeared around it, it is not known how long it would have lasted.

After welding, we again glue the floor in the cabin with vibroplast, put isolon and noise-insulating mats. We fill the internal cavity of the amplifier with anticorrosive (movil) through technological holes.

Since the mileage is already quite large (150 tkm), the brakes and the steering rack have undergone a general revision. The rail was overhauled, the rail shaft was polished. After the repair, the steering turned out just amazing.
Brake machines also shook up - put new calipers, new brake discs, hoses. The hubs were replaced with new ones. The wheel bearings were also changed - the old ones went through a lot (only one bearing changed) and although they did not buzz, after opening they found that all the treadmills were covered with dents. New bearings were treated with XADO repair and restoration grease.
The new amplifier was welded, having previously welded the reinforcing plates of the nuts.

Hello to all! As promised, I'm posting Part 2 in full. In this post, the actions are already taking place in 2014. How long have I been waiting for warming, that would take the car, and now it has come.

I began my repair with the continuation of cosmetic and welding work.

To begin with, I decided to make her evil eyes, so to speak Bad boy hood) It turned out great metal took 1.5mm. Stenciled out of a sheet of iron and turned on emery, then welded them to the hood.

The bottom of the door is a little rotten, I had to cook.

I cut a corner out of a tin and tried it on.

I welded it to the door, everything turned out pretty neat. Drops from welding grind grinder. The same operation was carried out with the other door, and all the holes on the rear cracker except for the lock were also welded. Now there will be no rear wiper and the OKA emblem too.

Cleaned up all the mushrooms on the body.

Disassembly has begun. During the evening, my friend and I scattered it all.

Here is actually the best friend as an assistant)

After disassembly, puttying began. Started with wings. The first layer was aluminum putty to create a fortress, etc. How I was tortured to rub it, but the result was worth it)

Here is the end result. The second layer was soft putty. This is where I finished with the wings.

Then he began to putty all the doors.

I ended up with the roof, but it was ready in 2 days)

Hood. The highlight of the car.I also filmed it, it took a day to work with it.

With putty like finished) Let's move on to paint work. The washing of the car with four hundredth sandpaper began, I also washed it inside, since the color would be different. Next is the ground, unfortunately there is no photo of the car in the ground. Washing begins again, only not the old paint, but the soil. And finally begins what I've been waiting for so long, painting)

The first photos after painting :) I was happy, but it was not me who painted, but my stepfather. I got such a skill later when I painted a car for a friend) The color is called “Medeo 428” I wanted something unusual that would stand out among the gray mice.

And of course the autograph as without it)

Further assembly of the car, unfortunately there is no photo either.

Completely assembled from the outside. New bumpers and every little thing. The salon is still empty. Fotkal at 2.5 megapiskel) Sorry for the quality.

Side lining. Dermantin got from my grandmother in the closet, put everything on staples and glue.

The finished version also covered the torpedo and rear pieces.

The structure of the body frame and its sections are shown in Fig. 8-1, 8-2

Rice. 8-2. Main sections of the body (side view)

Repairing a damaged body

A significant part of the repair work on cars, especially after traffic accidents, falls on the repair of bodies. In most cases, this requires checking the geometry of the attachment points, components and assemblies of the vehicle chassis. The main reference dimensions for checking the geometry are shown in fig. 8-3.

Rice. 8-3. The main reference dimensions of the attachment points of the units: Χ, Υ, Ζ - α basic lines; O - four base holes with a diameter of 15 mm; 1 - lower radiator supports; 2 – the top support of a radiator; 3 - fastenings of the subframe of the power unit; 4 - centers of the upper hinges of the racks; 5 – fastenings of an arm of a steering; 6 – fastenings of the lever of a gear change; 7 – fastenings of an arm of the lever of a parking brake; 8 - fastening the bracket of the left arm of the rear suspension; 9 – the center of fastening of the right arm of a back suspension bracket; 10 - the centers of the upper supports of the rear suspension shock absorbers; 11 - centers of attachment of compression buffers

Damage to the car body can be very different. Therefore, the repair rules in each individual case should be their own, most suitable for these damages. However, there are also general requirements. For example, it is necessary to use the possibilities of straightening damaged panels to the maximum. It is desirable to avoid excessive thermal impact on the metal, so as not to disturb the factory welding and anti-corrosion protection of the body. The front panels of the body can only be removed in extreme cases to determine the location of damage, straighten or align the body. In cases of significant damage to the body, it is recommended to remove all interior upholstery parts in order to facilitate the measurement, control and installation of hydraulic and screw jacks to eliminate distortions and damage. Editing restores the original linear dimensions and locations of the power units, the dimensions of the openings of the wind window, hood, tailgate. The protrusion of the front surfaces and removable parts relative to adjacent panels is eliminated by their fitting and adjustment.

Repair of deformed surfaces of parts

Repair of damaged body parts is carried out by drawing, straightening, straightening with metal shrinkage, cutting out sections (not repairable), manufacturing repair inserts from rejected body parts or sheet metal, giving them the shape of a restored part.

The deformed places of the panels are straightened, as a rule, manually using a special tool (metal, plastic, wooden hammers, mandrels of various shapes) and fixtures.

Editing with heating is used for upsetting (pulling) highly stretched surfaces. To prevent sudden swelling and deterioration of the mechanical properties, the panels are only heated to 600-650°C (cherry red color).The diameter of the heated spot should be no more than 20-30 mm.

The surfaces are tightened with a carbon electrode of a semi-automatic welding machine or a gas burner. The metal is heated from the periphery to the center of the defective area, upsetting the heated places with blows of a wooden mallet or hammer using a flat support or anvil.

The heating and upsetting operations are repeated until the desired panel surface is obtained.

Irregularities on the panels are leveled with polyester putties, thermoplastics, cold curing epoxy putties or solder.

Polyester fillers of the Chempropol-P or PE-0085 type form reliable joints with panels cleaned to metal. These putties are two-component materials consisting of an unsaturated polyester resin and a hardener, which catalyzes the rapid curing of the mixture. The temperature in the working room should not be below 18°C. The prepared putty must be used within 10 minutes. Final hardening - 60 minutes after application. The thickness of the putty layer should not exceed 2 mm.

The thermoplastic is available in powder form. The elastic properties necessary for application to the metal surface of the panel, thermoplastic acquires at a temperature of 150-160°C. The surface to be filled must be thoroughly cleaned of rust, scale, old paint and other contaminants. Thermoplastic adhesion is better to rough metal surfaces. To apply thermoplastic, the area to be leveled is heated to 170-180°C, after which the first layer of powder is applied, which is rolled with a metal roller. Then a second layer is applied and so on until the roughness is filled. Each layer is rolled to form a monolithic layer of plastic mass, and after hardening it can be processed by conventional methods.

Solders such as POSSu 18-2 or POSSu 25-2 are used for leveling areas previously filled with solder, as well as building up the edges of parts and eliminating gaps.

In case of significant damage, the panels are replaced with new ones using electric welding in a protective gas environment.

Removal and installation of a forward wing

To remove the wing, remove the cartridge with the turn signal lamp. Unscrew the self-tapping screws securing the wing to the body: three screws 2 (Fig. 8-4) on the upper flange, one screw 1 each at the bottom in front of the wing and at the bottom rear and one screw 3 for attaching to the front stack, which can be accessed through the gap between the pillar and open door.

Rice. 8-4. Removing the front wing: 1, 2, 3 - wing attachment points with screws

Carefully detach the wing and remove the insulating gaskets from the places where the wing contacts the mudguard.

Install the wing in reverse order. It is recommended to replace the insulating gaskets with new ones. Before finally tightening the screws, use the enlarged holes to match the gaps and protrusions of the fender with other body parts.

After replacing the fender, pay attention to the condition of the anti-corrosion coating under the front fender. If necessary, restore the coating by applying D-11A plastisol or BPM-1 mastic.

So. I cook a wonderful car Oka. I want to ask, maybe someone already cooked? exactly interested in the Back Panel, I live vg. Orla, and I can’t find such a detail anywhere.

What is a "rear panel" ?? Top, bottom, tailgate opening, beam attachment point. Neponyatka, more details pliz (please with a photo).

• Posts: 217
• Location: Tomsk region
• Oka 11113

In Serpukhov there is, sort of. Article 1111-5601080

This page is searched for by queries: Oka body repair, Oka forum, Oka discussion.

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Preparing the body for welding VAZ-11113 Oka. Repair of the inner side.

The place where you will paint should be dry, draft-free, warm and dust-free.
First you need to wash the body well. Before washing, it is advisable to remove all plastic parts from the body. This eliminates the presence of moisture in cracks and gaps. It is best to wash the car with strong water pressure.
Next, you need to inspect the car and choose the right paint. In the case of a complete painting of a car, you can choose any paint similar to the previous one (the shades are not indicated in the data sheet anyway). If the painting is partial, then you need to contact a special laboratory where they can choose the desired color.

Former students of technical universities, and now, as a rule, successful leading engineers, are well acquainted with the subject of “sopromat”. The mentioned subject for many students was not taken bastion, which was followed, at best, by retaking the exam, at worst, expulsion from the university and replenishment of the ranks of the invincible Russian army. For those who forgot about this subject. Due to the fact that it was not useful in future work or was not studied at all, since the chosen profile of the specialty did not require strong knowledge in this subject. Therefore, it is not a sin to remind. We will talk about the ability of any material to resist the external influence of any other bodies on it. Under the body, we will take the material in the form of the body of our car. Under "other bodies" we consider the Russian road with all its "charms", as well as inertial forces and other secondary objects, including various bodies of oncoming and passing cars. Having considered the action of all these factors and opposing forces in a single complex, the selection committee may have the right to give an “unsatisfactory” rating to the designers of an automobile model that did not pass the necessary tests.

Why do you need to strengthen the body.

For the perception of the narrated material, let's give a clear example of a packaging cardboard box from under household appliances, where the inner perimeter of the boxes has foam inserts. In the case of applying physical impact, twisting the box, we can do this very easily. Having completed gluing the wings of such a box with adhesive tape, with a new physical impact it will wrinkle, but more physical effort will be required. By embedding longitudinal and transverse struts tightly resting on the sides of the box, it will withstand many strong physical impacts, even if they play football with it instead of the ball. At the same time, it will retain the integrity of its original design.

Returning to our cars, we are well aware that in the presence of the most rigid car body, we will be faced with getting the deformation of vulnerabilities.Perhaps it will be microscopic damage, but they will be. One more vivid example can be given when we raise a domestic car with a five-year operating experience with a jack to a certain height. Then we will make sure that in eighty percent of such cases the doors will be wedged in the openings. This will talk about the deformation of the body. One of the main characteristics of the strength of an automobile body is its torsional rigidity. In the case when the body rigidity has an insignificant value, then the turns of the car will occur with some delay, due to the slowdown in the response of the car structure. Metal in the areas of attachment of the levers will introduce a mismatch in the operation of the rear and front suspensions. Due to constant twisting, premature aging of the body occurs, welds diverge, metal corrosion occurs intensively. If we consider cars only in this aspect, then the three-door coupes and hatchbacks, which resist bending as much as possible, are considered the strongest in body rigidity. Wagons and minivans have the worst indicator in this regard.

Strengthening the car body depends on the specialization of the vehicle and the financial capabilities of the car owner. There are many options for this, starting from the installation of stretch marks and spacers.

From all this abundance of various modifications, we choose: rods, scarves, rear, lower, front struts.

Front struts

A popular way to strengthen the body is the front struts. The advantages of this design include ease of installation, reasonable price, increased rigidity in the front of the car, and finally, visual aesthetics. The use of such a mount depends on the purpose of the vehicle. Its advantages are obvious - ease of installation, low price, visual appeal and a fairly strong increase in the rigidity of the front of the car. This method of strengthening the body for VAZs of the "tenth" family is not suitable. Since on these modifications of the models not only the racks “dance”, but the entire front shield is subject to deformation.

Spacers are offered by trade in a wide range, but their main difference from each other is in the material from which they are made and the method of fastening. Kerchiefs usually strengthen wheel arches, stiffeners throughout the body and suspension struts. Such reinforcement of the auto body is usually used on sports car models.

Bottom struts

The lower struts have an impact on improving the car's handling, increase stability, increase the life of the body, but the installation itself is very laborious.

The rear struts have an effect on improving the maneuverability and stability of the vehicle. Installing and removing the rear struts is easy. The rear strut is also quite easy to install and dismantle.

There is an existence and use of folk methods of strengthening the body, when the holes of the spars and thresholds are filled with mounting foam. In value terms, it's cheap. The advantage of this design is an increase in rigidity, the disadvantage is an increase in the activation of corrosion, the lack of ventilation. Increases the risk of fire during welding. The choice is up to car owners.

3-09-2011, 06:30 | Zinchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich

There are a number of simple rules, following which allows you to maximize the life of the automatic transmission.

Alexy59 » Mar 20, 2014, 06:52 pm

homa » Mar 20, 2014 19:53

Hey Alexy!
So, among the rotten people - Okovodov - replenishment!
I did not expect that there is something more rotten than my Akushka! And it looks like they drove it to the last?
In general, the sight of such devastation + repair with foam and self-tapping screws causes severe discouragement.
I’ll say a banality - without new spare parts, repairs will become more complicated

What is your goal in terms of repair?
And what kind of piece of iron is in her doorstep?

Dear Alexy!
I have for you:
Two requests:
Complete your profile so we know where you are from.
If not difficult, go here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=112
And one message:
Our strict but fair moderator - Yuri

even if you do something bad, do it well

Yuri » Mar 20, 2014, 10:40 pm

Alexy59 » Mar 21, 2014, 10:24 am

mmlevin » Mar 21, 2014, 11:05 am

Yuri » Mar 21, 2014 11:44 am

Alexy59 » Mar 21, 2014 11:56 am

started with the repair of the left threshold. put a new threshold on top of the old one and circled it along the contour, cut it off with a grinder

it turned out to be an uncomfortable diagonal cut, and even with steps.

and here is a photo of the backside with lining

Alexy59 » Mar 21, 2014, 12:02 pm

Alexy59 » Mar 21, 2014, 12:44 pm

In the process of repairing the threshold, it was first necessary to cut out the old one, or rather its remnants that go under the middle bottom. I just cut the corner with a grinder where the middle bottom meets the inner sidewall, and then I uprooted the remnants of the threshold connector. After that, he brought in a new threshold connector, which he grabbed to the inner sidewall. At first I wanted to do it like an “adult”. I drilled holes in the connector and through them tried to honestly weld to the inner sidewall. But it was not there. In some places there was a gap and the metal did not fit snugly to the sidewall. In addition, the iron of the sidewall was corroded, although I cleaned it. Well, the most important thing is that these first weld points were one of my first and there was no experience yet. And it turned out not a beautiful welding ala electric rivet, but some kind of garbage. and so I then just started to grab the iron to the edge. so today the back of the sill connector is attached only to the inner sidewall, and that's not so hot. then the truth, on the other hand, the inner threshold will be connected to the middle bottom. besides these connections, there are no others. maybe Homa will tell you how it should be in that place CORRECTLY. I will be very grateful.

Here is a photo of the place that I talked about during the fitting process

The Oka car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time the Oka was very popular due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car from early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the propulsion system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to restore the vehicle to working capacity is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. Doing repairs yourself is quite difficult, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Eye for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the life of the vehicle, increase the resource of the motor and increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to perform a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of the engine, you will need computer equipment and appropriate skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the car device. Performing this procedure with your own hands is not so simple, despite the small dimensions of the motor. In order to avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, a hydraulic puller, a device for hanging the engine.

After the dismantling of the engine has been successfully completed, it is necessary to proceed with its disassembly. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of the overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main goal of the overhaul is to return the vehicle elements to factory settings. Therefore, the only correct Oka repair manual is the original manufacturer's instructions.

During the large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

• Restoration of the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
• Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
• Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
• Processing of the head of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
• Return tightness block by welding.
• Editing the geometry of the connecting rod.
• Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repairs require appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages in the restoration of the engine is the processing of the cylinder head. The vehicle manufacturer indicates the permissible head treatment limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the manufacturer's instructions. Also, it is imperative to check with the master at what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited. If the processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the mandatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the depth of processing of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to factory settings, it is recommended to use the services of trusted workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure, which must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to sensibly assess the costs of restoration. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.