DIY body repair VAZ 2101 tips

• 3.1 Preparation for painting

The legend of the domestic automotive industry VAZ 2101 was produced for 28 years (from 1970 to 1988), during which 4.85 million cars rolled off the assembly line. Vaz 2101 practically had no competitors in the vast country.
Its technical characteristics, dynamics, braking system, handling and price made it a favorite in the domestic automotive market. "Kopeyka" still enjoys authority and is not uncommon on the streets of cities and towns.
As for most trimmed cars, the main problem of the "penny" is its body, since time, humidity and road reagents do not leave much of a chance for the body metal. And if you consider that, moreover, it is still a bearing part and makes up 60% of the cost of the car itself, then the overhaul of the body of the VAZ 2101 is a necessary and time-consuming operation, the quality of which directly affects the service life of the car itself.

• In the 70s and 80s, the thickness of the metal of body parts was 0.8 mm, closer to the 90s this parameter often reached 0.5 mm, although, as the official operating instructions said: “... the thickness of the metal is 0.7 mm ... ";
• Hinged elements (doors, hood, fenders) have an intricate design, with many hidden openings and cavities that are incomprehensible for their purpose. They are the initial centers of corrosion;
• Winter operation in urban conditions is also fraught with the negative impact of road reagents;
• Cheap car tuning. Yes, yes, it is all these freelance pendants - linings that accumulate dirt and moisture under them;
• Garage-free storage. Sharp fluctuations in temperature cause the appearance of condensation deposited on body parts, which, in turn, do not have time to dry out and are constantly in a wet state;
• The car is rarely washed and cleaned of dirt, which likes to accumulate in various niches and cavities.

Video (click to play).

Corroded areas of the body

As time has shown, in most passenger cars, corrosion damages certain parts of the body, the number of which is not so great.
But corrosion develops especially actively in hard-to-reach places - gaps, flanges, edge bends, that is, where moisture does not evaporate for a long time:

• Wheel arches are not only constantly exposed to aggressive environmental influences, they are also damaged by particles of the road surface flying from the wheels, which accelerate the corrosion process;
• Sills, doors, fenders, bonnet and trunk lids are an excellent place for accumulation of moisture that penetrates both from the outside and in the form of condensation;
• In places where parts rub against each other (in places where hinged parts are attached, doorways, etc.).

Attention! If corrosion has spread to the central pillars, the joint of the sub-engine frame, spars and other power elements, then it would be wiser to replace the body with a cavity, since in this case welding of the frame is not advisable and this is a complex process that only trained professionals can do.

The corrosive process can be roughly divided into two types:

• Surface (the process runs evenly over the surface of the part).
• Point (the process of erosion goes into the thickness of the metal - shells, holes, spots).

This type of corrosion at the initial stage (until it has passed into the second type) is not terrible and occurs most often due to poor preparation of the part for painting. We will not consider this type of repair in this article, we will just mention that it is not difficult and does not require special skills.
It is treated by repeated cleaning of the part, degreasing, priming and painting. I promise, in the future I will provide a detailed video, photo instructions, but for now let's move on to the second type.

Here it is - the first enemy of the car, which destroys the part, destroying not only its surface, but also making the metal structure so fragile that the operation of the car becomes simply a dangerous occupation. Here, for treatment, you will need more serious locksmith skills, or at least a desire to get hold of them.
After all, it's not the gods who burn the pots, do they?

Advice! If in the flame of a gas burner the metal is heated to a glowing light red color and at the same time it does not crumble in a sparkling fountain and does not evaporate, then it is quite suitable for welding.

So, we decided to make a do-it-yourself body repair on a VAZ 2101 car. To begin with, we will estimate the total amount of work, and this is the troubleshooting of parts, budgeting, the sequence of work.

After all, we do not know how various shocks, loss of rigidity and elasticity of rusted parts affected the body, and in order to end up with an initially flat car, we need to check its geometric dimensions, which are indicated in the operating instructions. For example, the control points of the body floor give information about the correct fastening of its elements, while the removal of units and assemblies from the car is not at all necessary.

Advice! The manufacturer permits an unevenness (taper) of the gaps of 1.5 mm, and the internal or external tolerances for the face elements relative to stationary parts are 2 mm.

All removable parts that are highly susceptible to corrosion are dismantled for their further replacement, and the places of their attachment to the body are cleaned and primed.

If it is not possible to find a new element, and the part itself is simply unbearable to spoil the whole look of the car, then go to plan "B", which implies the use of a grinder, autogen and spot welding.
The repair itself can be done in several ways:

• Heat treatment. When the element is deformed in the form of stretching, the metal is deposited by heating until or until the cherry color of the metal surface is reached.
  In order not to aggravate the situation with greater deformation, the area of ​​the heating spot should be no more than 3 cm. The heating is performed with a gas burner, moving it in a circle, from the edges to the center of the deformed area, at the same time with this hammer, the metal is helped to return a flat surface.
  It is more convenient to watch this process on video, since there is plenty of it on the World Wide Web.
• Mechanical method. Using a special tool (mandrels, wooden, metal, plastic, rubber hammers), the deformation of the part is tapped out and pulled out to its original state.
• Filling dents with a fast hardening material (putty, solder).

It should be mentioned that when overhauling the body of a VAZ 2101, namely, when restoring non-power elements (sills, fenders), contact welding is used. The fact is that autogen heats the metal to such an extent that its surface begins to deform, the physical properties change, and it loses its elasticity, but contact welding does not allow this and the welding process is much faster.

Some elements of the body are in such an inconvenient place that it is simply not possible to get close to them to knock out a dent with a hammer or by heating the metal. In order to remove the "inconvenient", it is necessary to weld a rod with a diameter of 2-3 mm outside the deformed area, but if the area of ​​the dent is large, several are welded, from the edge to the center of the deformation.
Stretch with a lever and simultaneously tapping on the edges of the dent. After everything is fixed, the rods are cut (broken off), and the welding place is processed with a grinder.

When overhauling the body, this method is categorically inapplicable in the joints of its power elements, since the strength of the soldered mating parts is much inferior to the welded joint.
The process itself is not complicated:

• We take two parts (we pre-cover the contact points with solder), heat it up and put it together in the desired position;
• Place the solder in the junction and heat it with a gas torch or a powerful soldering iron.

Despite the apparent simplicity, when soldering, the connection between the parts occurs at the molecular level and something intermediate is obtained - not welding, and not gluing. Therefore, this method is suitable for non-critical places.

The pluses of soldering include the fact that the seam of the joint is practically invisible and does not lend itself to corrosion. The minus can be considered that for a high-quality connection, the use of an expensive special flux and solder is required.
Of course, you can use ordinary tin, but this will be at the expense of the quality of the connection. Tin is great for filling small dents - soldering the body.
This operation is popular with restorers.

When an element has rotted in only one place or replacing it is a laborious and impractical process, then this method is the best repair option. The technology is simple: the decayed part is cut out, and a patch made of "fresh" metal is placed in the problem area.
This type of repair is usually used in body parts carrying a power load, namely where:

• The aesthetics of the seam does not matter (wheel arches, bottom), that is, it is still covered with a thick layer of anti-corrosion substances (in this case, even the deformation of the metal surface from the use of oxygen-acetylene welding is not terrible).

• Appearance matters. In this case, the patch is located on the front part (thresholds, racks), and to avoid metal deformation, it is necessary to use carbon-arc welding.

Advice! It is better to weld the semiautomatic welding places with small ties of 20 mm every 50 mm. In this case, the optimal rigidity of the part is achieved, with its minimum deformation.

Painting the car is the final stage in the overhaul of the body of the VAZ 2101. And if the high-quality painting and polishing of the car is done by hand, then you can be confidently called a real master and a doy in your business!
Well, since this occupation requires certain skills and experience, let's move on to the final part of this fascinating car repair process for us - preparation for painting.

• We clean the body from the old coating. Using sandpaper, we begin to scrape the surface of the car.
  Our task is to remove the paintwork, or rather the varnished layer. To begin with, we use sandpaper of a coarser grain (800, 1200), and after the gloss of the paint has worn off, we polish the micro scratches with a smaller one (1600, 2000).

Advice! When sanding large areas, it is better to use a grinder (grinder) with a special grinding wheel.

Attention! The thinner the layer of putty, the better (it is unlikely that it will move away from the metal over time).

• We cover with a primer (anti-corrosion layer).
• Those parts of the body and its parts that do not need to be painted are pasted over with paper stencils with tape around the edges. You can also use a special composition, which is then easily removed with water: 20% glycerin + 30% dextrin + 10% water + 40% chalk.

Advice! Use masking tape, it sticks well enough and does not leave any marks.

• Degreasing the body. White spirit is best suited for this procedure. After degreasing, immediately before painting, the surface prepared for painting must be wiped dry with a clean cloth.

On the paint and varnish market, the choice of paint is so great that it is not difficult to get distracted and buy paint corresponding to a momentary desire, and not an entry in the technical passport of a car. In this case, there is no big trouble, just do not forget, after the car is fully ready for operation, to provide it to the traffic police, to make the appropriate mark in the vehicle registration certificate.
At this point, I consider the short epic about the reincarnation of the good old "penny" to be complete. I hope that it will serve you with faith and truth for more than one hundred thousand kilometers!

Body repair vaz 2101 ″>

But, in spite of such a venerable age, "kopecks" are still confidently surfing the vastness of our vast planet, however, mainly, from home to summer cottage ...
If you are the happy and only owner of this car, which was constantly in your hands, then you are already well aware of all the weak body parts of the VAZ 2101 (if you already have it in working order for such a time).
Well, for those who are fortunate enough to use the "kopeck" of the secondhand category, please join our friendly detachment of handy and inquisitive people.

As we have already found out, do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2101 body begins with getting rid of illusions about its good condition.
The fact is that the car body is constantly in an aggressive and hostile environment, where, in addition to a significant temperature difference, road reagents and humidity also act on it. As a result, sooner or later, in addition to eliminating local deformations and pitting corrosion, you will have to deal with its complete restoration.
When calculating repairs, first of all, you need to find out how much body parts for a VAZ 2101 cost, and whether they are available at all. The fact is that on a “kopeck” the body is a load-bearing element, that is, it literally “bears” on itself all the rest of the car's equipment, and its price is almost half the cost of the entire car.
So, the instruction for vaz 2101 "DIY body repair" consists of two parts:

• Elimination of deformations of the body and its elements;
• Elimination of corrosion and restoration of elements affected by it.

Deformations of the car body and its elements occur in two cases - either you crashed into something or crashed into you. But this is not the point, the main thing is how we will eliminate the consequences of this embarrassment.
Costing
First, you need to assess the total amount of work, namely:

• all body parts of the VAZ 2101 must undergo a defect diagnosis (namely ALL, since there is a high probability of detecting hidden defects);
• an estimate has been made;
• the order of work to be performed has been determined.

Since we cannot be sure of the impeccability of the ride of the previous owner of the "penny" and, given the very advanced age of our car, first of all we will need to measure its geometric dimensions, which contain instructions for operating and repairing the car.

The photo shows the dimensions of the main control points * of the frame, where are indicated:

The legend of the domestic automotive industry VAZ 2101 was produced for 28 years (from 1970 to 1988), during which 4.85 million cars rolled off the assembly line. Vaz 2101 practically had no competitors in the vast country.
Its technical characteristics, dynamics, braking system, handling and price made it a favorite in the domestic automotive market. "Kopeyka" still enjoys authority and is not uncommon on the streets of cities and towns.

As for most trimmed cars, the main problem of the "penny" is its body, since time, humidity and road reagents do not leave much of a chance for the body metal. And if you consider that, moreover, it is still a bearing part and makes up 60% of the cost of the car itself, then the overhaul of the body of the VAZ 2101 is a necessary and time-consuming operation, the quality of which directly affects the service life of the car itself.

• In the 70s and 80s, the thickness of the metal of body parts was 0.8 mm, closer to the 90s this parameter often reached 0.5 mm, although, as the official operating instructions said: “... the thickness of the metal is 0.7 mm ... ";
• Hanging elements (doors, hood, fenders) have an intricate design, with many hidden openings and cavities incomprehensible for their purpose. They are the initial centers of corrosion;
• Winter operation in urban conditions, it is also fraught with the negative effects of road reagents;
• Cheap car tuning... Yes, yes, it is all these freelance pendants - linings that accumulate dirt and moisture under them;
• Garage-free storage... Sharp fluctuations in temperature cause the appearance of condensation settling on body parts, which, in turn, do not have time to dry out and are constantly in a wet state;
• The car is rarely washed and cleaned of dirt, which likes to accumulate in various niches and cavities.

Corroded areas of the body

As time has shown, in most passenger cars, corrosion damages certain parts of the body, the number of which is not so great.
But corrosion develops especially actively in hard-to-reach places - gaps, flanges, edge bends, that is, where moisture does not evaporate for a long time:

• Wheel arches are not only constantly exposed to aggressive environmental influences, they are also damaged by particles of the road surface flying from the wheels, which accelerate the corrosion process;
• Sills, doors, fenders, hood and trunk lids are a great place for moisture to accumulate both from the outside and in the form of condensation;
• In places where parts rub against each other (in places where hinged parts are attached, doorways, etc.).

Attention! If corrosion has spread to the central pillars, the joint of the sub-engine frame, spars and other power elements, then it would be wiser to replace the body with a cavity, since in this case welding of the frame is not advisable and this is a complex process that only trained professionals can do.

The corrosive process can be roughly divided into two types:

• Surface (the process runs evenly over the surface of the part).
• Point (the process of erosion goes into the thickness of the metal - shells, holes, spots).

This type of corrosion at the initial stage (until it has passed into the second type) is not terrible and occurs most often due to poor preparation of the part for painting. We will not consider this type of repair in this article, we will just mention that it is not difficult and does not require special skills.
It is treated by repeated cleaning of the part, degreasing, priming and painting. I promise, in the future I will provide a detailed video, photo instructions, but for now let's move on to the second type.

Here it is - the first enemy of the car, which destroys the part, destroying not only its surface, but also making the metal structure so fragile that the operation of the car becomes simply a dangerous occupation. Here, for treatment, you will need more serious locksmith skills, or at least a desire to get hold of them.
After all, it's not the gods who burn the pots, do they?

Advice! If in the flame of a gas burner the metal is heated to a glowing light red color and at the same time it does not crumble in a sparkling fountain and does not evaporate, then it is quite suitable for welding.

So, we decided to make a do-it-yourself body repair on a VAZ 2101 car. To begin with, we will estimate the total amount of work, and this is the troubleshooting of parts, the preparation of estimates, the sequence of work.

After all, we do not know how various shocks, loss of rigidity and elasticity of rusted parts affected the body, and in order to end up with an initially flat car, we need to check its geometric dimensions, which are indicated in the operating instructions. For example, the control points of the body floor give information about the correct fastening of its elements, while the removal of units and assemblies from the car is not at all necessary.

Advice! The manufacturer permits an unevenness (taper) of the gaps of 1.5 mm, and the internal or external tolerances for the face elements relative to stationary parts are 2 mm.

All removable parts that are highly susceptible to corrosion are dismantled for their further replacement, and the places of their attachment to the body are cleaned and primed.

If it is not possible to find a new element, and the part itself is simply unbearable to spoil the whole look of the car, then go to plan "B", which implies the use of a grinder, autogen and spot welding.
The repair itself can be done in several ways:

• Heat treatment. When the element is deformed in the form of stretching, the metal is deposited by heating until or until the cherry color of the metal surface is reached.
  In order not to aggravate the situation with greater deformation, the area of ​​the heating spot should be no more than 3 cm. The heating is performed with a gas burner, moving it in a circle, from the edges to the center of the deformed area, at the same time with this hammer, the metal is helped to return a flat surface.
  It is more convenient to watch this process on video, since there is plenty of it on the World Wide Web.
• Mechanical method. With the help of a special tool (mandrels, wooden, metal, plastic, rubber hammers), the deformation of the part is tapped out and pulled out to its original state.
• Filling dents quickly hardening material (putty, solder).

It should be mentioned that when overhauling the body of a VAZ 2101, namely, when restoring non-power elements (sills, fenders), contact welding is used. The fact is that autogen heats the metal to such an extent that its surface begins to deform, the physical properties change, and it loses its elasticity, but contact welding does not allow this and the welding process is much faster.

Some elements of the body are in such an inconvenient place that it is simply not possible to get close to them to knock out a dent with a hammer or by heating the metal. In order to remove the "inconvenient", it is necessary to weld a rod with a diameter of 2-3 mm outside the deformed area, but if the area of ​​the dent is large, several are welded, from the edge to the center of the deformation.
Stretch with a lever and simultaneously tapping on the edges of the dent. After everything is fixed, the rods are cut (broken off), and the welding place is processed with a grinder.

When overhauling the body, this method is categorically inapplicable in the joints of its power elements, since the strength of the soldered mating parts is much inferior to the welded joint.
The process itself is not complicated:

• We take two parts (we pre-cover the contact points with solder), heat it up and put it together in the desired position;
• Place the solder in the junction and heat it with a gas torch or a powerful soldering iron.

Despite the apparent simplicity, when soldering, the connection between the parts occurs at the molecular level and something intermediate is obtained - not welding, and not gluing. Therefore, this method is suitable for non-critical places.

The pluses of soldering include the fact that the joint seam is practically invisible and does not corrode.The downside is that a high-quality connection requires the use of an expensive special flux and solder.
Of course, you can use ordinary tin, but this will be at the expense of the quality of the connection. Tin is great for filling small dents - soldering the body.
This operation is popular with restorers.

When an element has rotted in only one place or replacing it is a laborious and impractical process, then this method is the best repair option. The technology is simple: the decayed part is cut out, and a patch made of "fresh" metal is placed in the problem area.
This type of repair is usually used in body parts carrying a power load, namely where:

• The aesthetics of the seam does not matter (wheel arches, bottom), that is, it is still covered with a thick layer of anti-corrosion substances (in this case, even the deformation of the metal surface from the use of oxygen-acetylene welding is not terrible).

• Appearance matters. In this case, the patch is located on the front part (thresholds, racks), and to avoid metal deformation, it is necessary to use carbon-arc welding.

Advice! It is better to weld the semiautomatic welding places with small ties of 20 mm every 50 mm. In this case, the optimal rigidity of the part is achieved, with its minimum deformation.

Painting the car is the final stage in the overhaul of the body of the VAZ 2101. And if the high-quality painting and polishing of the car is done by hand, then you can be confidently called a real master and a doy in your business!
Well, since this occupation requires certain skills and experience, let's move on to the final part of this fascinating car repair process for us - preparation for painting.

• We clean the body from the old coating. Using sandpaper, we begin to scrape the surface of the car.
  Our task is to remove the paintwork, or rather the varnished layer. To begin with, we use sandpaper of a coarser grain (800, 1200), and after the gloss of the paint has worn off, we polish the micro scratches with a smaller one (1600, 2000).

Advice! When sanding large areas, it is better to use a grinder (grinder) with a special grinding wheel.

• Remove small dents on the body with putty.

Attention! The thinner the layer of putty, the better (it is unlikely that it will move away from the metal over time).

• We cover with a primer (anti-corrosion layer).
• Those parts of the body and its parts that do not need to be painted are pasted over with paper stencils with tape around the edges. You can also use a special composition, which is then easily removed with water: 20% glycerin + 30% dextrin + 10% water + 40% chalk.

Advice! Use masking tape, it sticks well enough and does not leave any marks.

• Degreasing the body. White spirit is best suited for this procedure. After degreasing, immediately before painting, the surface prepared for painting must be wiped dry with a clean cloth.

On the paint and varnish market, the choice of paint is so great that it is not difficult to get distracted and buy paint corresponding to a momentary desire, and not an entry in the technical passport of a car. In this case, there is no big trouble, just do not forget, after the car is fully ready for operation, to provide it to the traffic police, to make the appropriate mark in the vehicle registration certificate.
At this point, I consider the short epic about the reincarnation of the good old "penny" to be complete. I hope that it will serve you with faith and truth for more than one hundred thousand kilometers!

But, in spite of such a venerable age, "kopecks" are still confidently surfing the vastness of our vast planet, however, mainly, from home to summer cottage ...
If you are the happy and only owner of this car, which was constantly in your hands, then you are already well aware of all the weak body parts of the VAZ 2101 (if you already have it in working order for such a time).
Well, for those who are fortunate enough to use the "kopeck" of the secondhand category, please join our friendly detachment of handy and inquisitive people.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

As we have already found out, do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2101 body begins with getting rid of illusions about its good condition.

• Elimination of deformations of the body and its elements;
• Elimination of corrosion and restoration of elements affected by it.

Deformations of the car body and its elements occur in two cases - either you crashed into something or crashed into you. But this is not the point, the main thing is how we will eliminate the consequences of this embarrassment.
Costing
First, you need to assess the total amount of work, namely:

• all body parts of the VAZ 2101 must undergo a defect diagnosis (namely ALL, since there is a high probability of detecting hidden defects);
• an estimate has been made;
• the order of work to be performed has been determined.

Since we cannot be sure of the impeccability of the ride of the previous owner of the "penny" and, given the very advanced age of our car, first of all we will need to measure its geometric dimensions, which contain instructions for operating and repairing the car.

The photo shows the dimensions of the main control points * of the frame, where are indicated:

Back in 1975, a 1974 VAZ 2101 car appeared in my family. The car was purchased by my grandfather in his native Perm region from the timber industry, who does not know, a new car, even with money, was difficult to get and they were bought from organizations as decommissioned or something like that. Since then, the grandfather and his family have settled within the Golden Ring and the car has been in grandfather's caring hands. Despite the age of 43, the car is very much in good condition, but its appearance leaves much to be desired, so it was decided to freshen up the car and sell it, because in 2016 grandfather celebrated his 90th birthday, talk about driving, despite his vigorous state not necessary. My good friend Dima, who is engaged in car repairs, volunteered to help me. He did the most responsible part of the work, since I am a master, but not a jack of all trades, unlike him (I am not friends with welding and with an electrician in general, and the rest, please).

On closer inspection, it turned out that the sides were carefully painted from a cylinder, the body was covered with numerous scratches, dents and chips. What was not there was rust. All that was possible was covered with red lead.

This is how the car appeared after I wiped off the paint from the bottle with a solvent.

Then it was the turn of replacing the left front fender - the front part, at the apron, was a miserable sight, once knocked or hooked and pasted over with fiberglass with putty. Replacement only.

After installing the wing, it was the turn of the putty. We used exclusively Car system Soft, in especially difficult places or as a basis for software, a spatula with fiberglass - it grabs tightly, but it was also tortured to smoke it.In total, 1.5 cans of Spatula Soft and half a can of fiberglass were used.

The process of vyskurivaniya dragged on, because I wanted to do everything to my conscience, and the area turned out to be rather big. Again, they were made with different skins and with development.

When the sanding was finished, it was time for the primer. We were not allowed into the cell, so they primed us in the same garage. Breathe! But they did it. After priming, again, sanding with development. The car began to resemble a 3D model, and most importantly, even and straight from the tin.

If you are the owner of a VAZ-2101 Zhiguli, then the minimum age of your car is already over 30 years, and the maximum is well over 40 (1970-1983). These machines have gone through more than one welding and painting, but, as before, their simplicity and reliability deserves respect. Here and again it's time to update the veteran's appearance. But the cost of painting in a service center significantly exceeds the market value of the car itself, so a loving owner will do everything with his own hands.

Painting work is like women's makeup, the correct application of which requires skill, experience, the necessary equipment, materials and tools. And the task is the same - to create an attractive appearance.

Painting is preceded by painstaking and lengthy preparation. After all, attractiveness and perfection of appearance is only one half of the task, and the second, no less important, is the protection of the body and its elements from corrosion. It is this that will significantly extend the life of the VAZ pensioner model 2101, and poorly performed preparation is money thrown away with your own hands, because the primer, paint and varnish will not stick in places where there is rust.

According to the degree and type of damage to the body and / or paintwork, painting can be local or complete.

The first type does not always require replacing the damaged body element, but careful selection of the color is necessary, which is better to entrust to a specialist. After all, even the full correspondence of the paint number does not guarantee coincidence, since over time the paint and varnish coating "burns out" from ultraviolet radiation. Usually, the color is checked for compliance by painting on the inside of the fuel filler flap.

They paint directly the damaged surface, which, if possible, can be removed. For example, a door, hood or trunk. In the presence of shallow scratches or mechanical damage, they are cleaned and thoroughly degreased, and then putty, primed and painted.

The reason for the complete painting is significant damage after an accident, severe corrosion of the body or its elements, which is not surprising for a VAZ 2101, given its age. The procedure can take place with the replacement of body parts or their restoration. Technological operations and their order practically do not differ from local repair.

Drying after painting in both versions will require a clean room, and, if possible, a special spray booth that can maintain the required temperature.

A multi-layer paintwork is applied to a VAZ car, the quality, manufacturer and price of which will depend on the financial capabilities and wishes of the owner. Therefore, the question of the choice of material, as well as the technology of its application, lies entirely with you.

As a rule, it includes a standard set: primer, paint and varnish. Please note that only with full and careful fulfillment of technological requirements when applying all layers will you get high-quality protection and a presentable appearance.
The paint that is used to paint cars can be aerosol or powder. The most modern and high quality, of course - powder. Spraying at high temperatures causes the coating to cure and become even and tough. This type of paint has increased resistance to aggressive external factors and provides good body protection.

Summing up, we will draw up a complete list of operations to be performed. To make your VAZ 2101 look like a new penny after painting, you must do:

• complete or partial disassembly of units and remove decorative elements;
• initial training (washing and rough mechanical cleaning of the body);
• welding and straightening works - if necessary;
• protect non-removable decorative parts, glass, engine compartment;
• degrease the entire surface;
• align the plane of the body by alternating putty and fine stripping;
• prime;
• thoroughly degrease again immediately before painting;
• apply paint and varnish;
• dry in a special chamber (if possible);
• to assemble units and install removable parts;
• perform final finishing and polishing.

Video (click to play).

The appearance of your "penny" depends on the careful and conscientious performance of all stages of work. In new clothes, the VAZ 2101 will continue to delight you with its reliability and unpretentiousness.

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