DIY repair kvkg m52

KVKG (crankcase ventilation valve) Bmw - an unobtrusive but important part in a BMW engine. The condition of the entire BMW engine, oil consumption, environmental friendliness and injectivity largely depend on the correct operation of the crankcase gas recirculation valve.

We offer a service for repair (restoration) of the old valve KVKG on engines BMW M54, N52, N46, N42, N45, M52, M50TU, N45n, N46n, N51, N52k, N52n by installing a new membrane made of a thicker and more resistant material. We will also replace the old crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG) with a new one, or install a new BMW engine valve cover.

To clarify the cost of repairing or replacing KVKG, or repairing a valve cover, click on the button with your engine below.

>>> M54, M52TU

M54, M52TU engines have a separate crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG); repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing the attachment blocks and pipes from the intake manifold
• Removing the KVKG valve
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm in it
• Replacing the ventilation tubes and checking the drain channel in the oil dipstick tube
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured valve and new ventilation pipes.

The warranty period is 1 year.

Repair cost - 4000 rub (including membrane).

Repair time - 3 hours.

Consumables: tubes of the crankcase ventilation system (4pcs).

We can also replace your valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new KVKG valve is 3000 RUR

>>> M50TU, M52

M50TU, M52 engines have a separate crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG), the repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing the attachment blocks and pipes from the intake manifold
• Removing the KVKG valve
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm in it
• Replacing the ventilation tubes and checking the drain channel in the oil dipstick tube
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured valve and new ventilation pipes.

The warranty period is 1 year.

Repair cost - 4000 rub (including membrane).

Repair time - 3 hours.

Consumables: tubes of the crankcase ventilation system (2pcs).

We can also replace your valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new KVKG valve is 2800 RUR

>>> N51, N52k, N52n

Engines N51, N52k, N52n have a crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG) built into the valve cover; repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing the valve cover
• Opening the valve and installing a new membrane in it with a new reusable aluminum cover (or valve assembly)
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured ventilation valve.

We draw your attention to the fact that the restoration of the built-in KVKG valves does not always have a positive result, in some cases you still have to install a new valve cover. This is due to the fact that BMW did not provide for the possibility of opening and replacing membranes on these engines, therefore, with a high degree of fragility of the plastic, the cover breaks without the possibility of recovery.

Membrane replacement cost - RUR 9500 (including membrane and cover).

Complete valve replacement cost - RUB 10,000 (including valve).

Repair time - 1 day.

Consumables: valve cover gasket, Valvetronic motor gasket.

We can also replace your valve cover with a built-in KVKG valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new cover is 4000 RUR

>>> N46n, N46t, N46k

Engines N46n, N46t, N46k have a crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG) built into the valve cover; repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing attachments
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm with a cover in it
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured ventilation valve.

We draw your attention to the fact that the restoration of the built-in KVKG valves does not always have a positive result, in some cases you still have to install a new valve cover. This is due to the fact that BMW did not provide for the possibility of opening and replacing membranes on these engines, therefore, with a high degree of fragility of the plastic, the cover breaks without the possibility of recovery.

Repair cost - 3900 rub (including membrane and cover).

Repair time - 1,5 hour.

Consumables: not required.

We can also replace your valve cover with a built-in KVKG valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new cover is 4000 RUR

Engines N45, N45n have a crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG) built into the valve cover; repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing attachments
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm in it
• Assembling the engine.

We draw your attention to the fact that the restoration of the built-in KVKG valves does not always have a positive result, in some cases you still have to install a new valve cover. This is due to the fact that BMW did not provide for the possibility of opening and replacing membranes on these engines, therefore, with a high degree of fragility of the plastic, the cover breaks without the possibility of recovery.

Repair cost - 2900 RUR (including membrane).

Repair time - 1,5 hour.

Consumables: not required.

We can also replace your valve cover with a built-in KVKG valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new cover is 4000 RUR

>>> N52 (separate valve)

N52 engines have a separate crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG), the repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing the intake manifold
• Removing the KVKG valve
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm in it
• Replacing the ventilation tubes
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured valve and new ventilation pipes.

The warranty period is 1 year.

Repair cost - 5200r (including membrane).

Repair time - 5:00.

Consumables: tubes of the crankcase ventilation system (3pcs); intake manifold gaskets.

We can also replace your valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new KVKG valve is 4200 RUR

>>> N42, N46 (separate valve)

Engines N42, N46 have a separate crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG), the repair of such a valve in our workshop includes:

• Removing the intake manifold
• Removing the KVKG valve
• Opening the valve and installing a new diaphragm in it
• Replacing the ventilation tubes
• Assembling the engine with a remanufactured valve and new ventilation pipes.

The warranty period is 1 year.

Repair cost - 5200r (including membrane).

Repair time - 5:00.

Consumables: tubes of the crankcase ventilation system (3pcs); intake manifold gaskets.

We can also replace your valve with a new one, in this case the cost of installing a new KVKG valve is 4200 RUR

>>> Sale of membranes

If you have proven masters, or if you want to repair the KVKG yourself, you can buy a membrane from us and install it without our help. The warranty period is considered from the date of purchase and only if it is correctly installed, according to our instructions.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve repair kit is made of polymer with a thickness of 50% more than the original, due to this, the resource of the remanufactured crankcase gas recirculation valve is twice as large as the original BMW.

• Increased oil consumption
• Overpressure under the valve cover
• Fume engine
• Extraneous sound in the area of ​​the KVKG valve and the intake manifold
• Deterioration in dynamics.

BMWs have problems with the exhaust gas recirculation system for the following reasons:

• Rupture of the KVKG membrane
• Clogged crankcase ventilation hoses
• Cracks and breakages in the crankcase gas recirculation hoses.

Under the influence of these reasons, oil from the sump of the engine can be sucked through the EGR valve, which in the worst case can lead to bending of the valves. Damaged hoses of the ventilation system valve may leak air and, as a result, deteriorate the dynamics of the BMW engine. Clogged KVKG hoses usually lead to squeezing out of the engine oil seals and oil leakage through the valve cover and crankshaft seals.

The easiest way to assess the condition of the valve and the entire crankcase gas recirculation system is to open the oil filler cap. It should stick slightly when opening, if this does not happen, and smoke comes out of the neck, then the ventilation system is faulty.
A sign of a malfunction of the BMW crankcase ventilation valve is also too strong suction (sticking) of the cover. This indicates a leak in the exhaust gas ventilation valve and a ruptured membrane inside the KVKG valve.

• Replacing the KVKG valve with a new one (+ the valve works like a new one; - expensive)
• Repair of the KVKG (+ the valve works like a new one, + the resource of the KVKG is at least twice as high as the new one, + is cheaper than the new valve; - no).

We recommend, at the slightest suspicion of a malfunction of the BMW crankcase ventilation valve, to diagnose the system and, if necessary, replace or repair the KVKG valve in our workshop, until the sad consequences of a faulty crankcase ventilation valve occur.

A serviceable BMW always gives the joy of driving to its owner!

car repair in Zaporozhye

KVKG (crankcase ventilation valve) BMW - an unobtrusive but important part in a BMW engine. The condition of the entire BMW engine, oil consumption, environmental friendliness and injectivity largely depend on the correct operation of the crankcase gas recirculation valve.

The main signs of a faulty crankcase ventilation valve (CVKG) BMW

• Increased oil consumption
• Overpressure under the valve cover
• Fume engine
• Extraneous sound in the area of ​​the KVKG valve and the intake manifold
• Deterioration in dynamics.

BMWs have problems with the exhaust gas recirculation system for the following reasons:

• Rupture of the KVKG membrane
• Clogged crankcase ventilation hoses
• Cracks and breakages in the crankcase gas recirculation hoses.

Under the influence of these reasons, oil from the sump of the engine can be sucked through the EGR valve, which in the worst case can lead to bending of the valves. Damaged hoses of the ventilation system valve may leak air and, as a result, deteriorate the dynamics of the BMW engine. Clogged KVKG hoses usually lead to squeezing out of the engine oil seals and oil leakage through the valve cover and crankshaft seals.

So how to check the KVKG valve?

The easiest way to assess the condition of the valve and the entire crankcase gas recirculation system is to open the oil filler cap. It should stick slightly when opening, if this does not happen, and smoke comes out of the neck, then the ventilation system is faulty.
A sign of a malfunction of the BMW crankcase ventilation valve is also too strong suction (sticking) of the cover. This indicates a leak in the exhaust gas ventilation valve and a ruptured membrane inside the KVKG valve.

• Replacing the KVKG valve with a new one (+ the valve works like a new one; - expensive)
• Repair of the KVKG (+ the valve works like a new one, + the resource of the KVKG is at least twice as high as the new one, + is cheaper than the new valve; - no).

We recommend, at the slightest suspicion of a malfunction of the BMW crankcase ventilation valve, to diagnose the system in Ukraine and, if necessary, replace it in Zaporozhye, or repair the KVKG valve in our workshop in Zaporozhye, until the sad consequences of a faulty crankcase ventilation valve occur.

We offer a service for repair (restoration) of the old valve KVKG on engines by installing a new membrane made of a thicker and more resistant material.We will also replace the old crankcase ventilation valve (KVKG) in Zaporozhye.

The exhaust gas recirculation valve repair kit is made of polymer with a thickness of 50% more than the original, due to this, the resource of the restored crankcase gas recirculation valve is twice as large as the original.

Photo report on the replacement of kkg m52.

What is useful to us?
-New spare parts (KVKG itself and two pipes)
-Screwdriver flat
-Set of wrenches
-Set of hexagons

And so, having prepared and bought everything that is necessary, we begin to replace the kwkg.

Action number 1:
Take a 10 wrench and unscrew the bolt that holds our filter.

Actions numbered 2-3:
Disconnect the latches from the flow meter with a flat screwdriver.

Action number 4:
We release the clamp that holds the flow meter.

After you have done these 4 steps, remove the filter box and the meter itself! (Remember to remove the plug from the flowmeter)

Action # 1: Relax the clamp and remove it.
Action 2-3: Remove the plugs
Action number 4: Disconnect the pipe

Next, we take the hexagons, and unscrew the bolts to remove the first throttle valve. And after that we put it aside.
(Be careful to remove the bolts so that they do not fall on the engine guard)

Now we need to remove the second throttle valve, take the wrench and unscrew the 4th bolts. Also, after removal, we put the throttle aside.

After removing the two throttle valves, we need to unscrew the three bolts that hold our KVKG.

Disconnect 1 pipe from the engine to KWKG.
We do the same with the second one, which goes from kkg to the probe.

Next, you only need hands to pull out our kkg.

We will pull it out through the bottom!

We change the old valve to a new one, the most important thing is to tightly insert the KKG spout into the socket that is attached to the air duct.

Then we put new pipes.
With the first branch pipe that removes gases, there should be nothing complicated.
But with the second one, which drains the oil into the dipstick, it is heavier, before inserting it into the dipstick, you need to clean the hole in the dipstick through which the oil is drained by the kgf. For this, you will need a tube for example from under the juice. (Insert the tube into the hole of the probe, wiping it several times) After cleaning, puts on the branch pipe.

Once again, I repeat the main thing to tightly put on all the pipes and the KVKG itself so that there are no cracks!
Then we collect everything in reverse order.
After we have collected everything, we start the car and let it run for a few minutes.

The procedure itself is very simple! The main thing is to be neat

Special thanks to Tuma who helped me with this issue! =)
I hope this little report will help our fellows! =)

The crankcase ventilation system is designed to reduce the emission of harmful substances from the engine crankcase into the atmosphere. When the engine is running, exhaust gases can enter the crankcase from the combustion chambers. The crankcase also contains vapors of oil, diesel fuel and water. Together they are called blow-by gases. The accumulation of crankcase gases degrades the properties and composition of the engine oil, destroys the metal parts of the engine, and also contributes to the flow of engine oil into the intake.

In the event of a KVKG malfunction, on a working engine, as a rule, oil begins to ooze from various slots: through the oil seals, the oil filler cap, and even the oil dipstick.

In the summer of 2012, just such a story happened to me, I decided to completely disassemble, clean and check the crankcase ventilation system.

On the BMW 525 tds, it consists of: oil separating mesh, crankcase ventilation valves installed in the valve cover, as well as all kinds of hoses, etc.

In order to check the state of the KVKG and to clean it or replace it, if necessary, you need:

- To do this, first remove the plastic air duct from the body, and use the Torx hexagon to unscrew the air filter cover.

- Unscrew the 4 bolts inside the air filter housing (for this purpose, again you need a Torx hexagon)

- Unscrew the clamp on the pressure hose from the casing to the turbine.

- Loosen 8 screws with a Torx hexagon.

- Inside the valve cover there is a special baffle screwed onto a set of Torx bolts, unscrew them and remove the baffle.

- We extract the oil, the separating mesh and the KVKG valve itself.

- Flush the valve cover, baffle, oil and separating mesh with kerosene.

To check the serviceability of the crankcase ventilation valve, we blow into it from one side and the other. A serviceable valve is blown in only one direction.

After cleaning the KVKG and checking its serviceability, assemble the valve cover and install it on the machine in the reverse order.

Alexander Borisov, Samara

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- New parts (The valve itself and two pipes to it)
- Flat screwdriver
- Set of spanner wrenches
- Hexagon set

No. 1 in the photo:
Using a 10 key, unscrew the retaining filter bolt.

No. 2-3 in the photo:
Using a flat screwdriver from the flow meter, disconnect the latches:

No. 4 in the photo:
Loosen the clamp holding the flow meter.

No. 1 in the photo:
Loosen and remove the clamp.

No. 2-3 in the photo:
We dismantle the plugs.

No. 4 in the photo:
Disconnect the branch pipe

Next, unscrew the bolts with hexagons, dismantle the throttle valve (first).

Next, unscrew the four bolts with a key and remove the second throttle valve

After removing both flaps, unscrew the three bolts holding the KVKG.

Disconnect the first pipe from the KVKG to the engine.
We do the same with the second pipe going from the probe to the KVKG.

You need to pull out through the bottom

We are replacing the old valve with a new one, while making sure that the valve nose is tightly inserted into the socket attached to the air duct.

Next, we install new pipes.
The first (exhausting gases) should get up without problems, and when installing the second (draining oil into the dipstick) it is a little more difficult - before inserting the dipstick, you need to clean the hole in it (through it the valve drains the oil), for this purpose a tube from a pack of juice is suitable. After cleaning, we put on the pipe.

Once again, we check the tightness of dressing the tubes and the KVKG itself, the presence of gaps is unacceptable.
We assemble in the reverse order. After assembly, we start the engine, letting it run for a few minutes.

The diaphragm did not rupture, but it stuck to one side of the valve.

After the replacement, the engine operation became smoother.
In general, the procedure is not complicated and takes two hours.

The main problem of the BMW car is the frequent breakdown of the m54 kvkg, m52tu engines (crankcase ventilation valve), in which the rubber membrane wears out over time and ceases to function. The only way out of this situation is a complete replacement of KKG M54 with expensive repairs, since the membrane built into the M54 valve is not sold separately from the BMW manufacturer. By the way, the average cost of a bmw m54 kvkg is in the range of 4000-5000 rubles, and this is quite expensive taking into account the repair in the service.

But is it worth it to shell out a lot of money just because of the torn rubber band? That's right, no! Having carefully studied the design of the valve, our company came to the only wise and correct decision - if you have a membrane on your hands, you can easily replace it on your own, without changing the entire kvkg m54. Therefore, we began to engage in the production of this rubber product, which is important for the BMW engine.

Why change the membrane?

The main reason for replacing a torn membrane with bmw m54 kwkg is the ingress of excessive air into the cylinders of the power unit, which flows past the control flow sensor, and the electronic control unit (ECU) reconfigures to the readings of the lambda probes that record the excess oxygen content, which has a bad effect on operational productivity ...

A number of the following reasons indicate a malfunction of the kvkg e60, e53 and other BMW bodies:

- engine starting is carried out with great difficulty;

- at idle, the unstable operation of the motor is felt;

- dust particles can enter through the ruptured membrane, which increase the wear of all moving parts of the mechanism;

- the consumption of fuel and lubricants sharply increases.

4 steps to go through when changing your membrane yourself

1) In the place where the membrane is installed, remove the cover (recommended on a warm engine).

2) Carefully pull out the worn out element, from which remove the plastic stop and transfer it to the new part.

3) Slowly put the new diaphragm in place together with the return spring.

The first start of the engine after changing the membrane will necessarily be accompanied by unstable operation. It depends on the ECU, which, during operation in an emergency state, reconfigured the fuel cards. After a little work, the valve will fully restore its functionality, and with the subsequent start-up will switch to standard operation.

Here you are stubborn) close the regular hole and bring the air out into the body - even on the street, even in the corrugation))) even in the salon) do not touch the current valve.

The nipple will not ride 😀 but closer))) in the end you will come to the same valve 😀

Your energy and for peaceful purposes - two villages could be provided with electricity 😆

Shl! It also warms the drosel in winter! 😆 a useful thing!

Maintain a vacuum. And a lot is tied to it Pts!

Shl! It also warms the drosel in winter! 😆 a useful thing!

Maintain a vacuum. And a lot is tied to it Pts!

Shl! It also warms the drosel in winter! 😆 a useful thing!

Maintain a vacuum. And a lot is tied to it Pts!

Shl! It also warms the drosel in winter! 😆 a useful thing!

Maintain a vacuum. And a lot is tied to it Pts!

Here, in this picture, the m52 sparva can be seen in the center of the collector, behind the connector for the temperature sensor 3. pimp chtoli. they put on 3 hoses:
1.Ventilation of the tank
2.the valve of the rear can of the muffler (by the way, I also threw it out 😀)
3.for the return rail with nozzles, or something like that

they are not connected to the valve in any way, yesterday I disassembled all this system and looked at what was there and how.

Tell me forgive! After the capital, troit on xx!

Good evening everyone (morning, afternoon, night). Did kapitalku dvigla (m54 2.5) at idle running like ch.

Hello. Rotted connector to the rear ABS sensor. Not the one from the side of the sensor, but the one that.

Selling all sorts of things on the E36 M52 mono-vane (left after the sale of the car). According to the rules of the forum prices.

Bought BMW E46 Touring 320d 2003 onwards and there was a detachment of the 3rd piston. decided to change the motor to contract.

Hello to all. Need help. I will describe everything from the beginning. When the car starts and runs, there is no smoke. ...

All good day the other day I put the original bi xenon headlights in place of their galagenok. By plugs.

Good day everyone. Tell me what to do I do not know where to dig, here a lot of things have been written about the brakes.

To replace, you will need: - New spare parts (The valve itself and two nozzles for it) - Flat screwdriver - A set of spanners - A set of hexagons

No. 1 in the photo: Using a 10 key, unscrew the retaining filter bolt. No. 2-3 in the photo: Using a flat screwdriver from the flow meter, disconnect the latches: No. 4 in the photo: Loosen the clamp holding the flow meter.

No. 1 in the photo: Loosen and remove the clamp. No. 2-3 in the photo: We dismantle the plugs. No. 4 in the photo: Disconnect the branch pipe

Next, unscrew the bolts with hexagons, dismantle the throttle valve (first).

Next, unscrew the four bolts with a key and remove the second throttle valve

After removing both flaps, unscrew the three bolts holding the KVKG.

Disconnect the first pipe from the KVKG to the engine. We do the same with the second pipe going from the probe to the KVKG.

We take out the KVKG. [imghttps: //my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1782/pictures/photoalbum/13756/large.jpg] [/ img] Pull out from the bottom

We are replacing the old valve with a new one, while making sure that the valve nose is tightly inserted into the socket attached to the air duct.

Next, we install new pipes. The first (exhausting gases) should get up without problems, and when installing the second (draining oil into the dipstick) it is a little more difficult - before inserting the dipstick, you need to clean the hole in it (through it the valve drains the oil), for this purpose a tube from a pack of juice is suitable. After cleaning, we put on the pipe. Once again, we check the tightness of dressing the tubes and the KVKG itself, the presence of gaps is unacceptable. We assemble in the reverse order. After assembly, we start the engine, letting it run for a few minutes. Old valve

The diaphragm did not rupture, but it stuck to one side of the valve. After the replacement, the engine operation became smoother.

In general, the procedure is not complicated and takes two hours.

This breakdown is not uncommon, and almost all service centers do not repair it (only a complete replacement). We begin the repair with this process - everything is described before.

The following spare parts are required for replacement: - Idler roller (part number 532047510) In theory, the tensioner roller does not change separately, but the tensioner changes completely.

In order to replace the glow plugs you will need: - glow plugs - 4 pcs. (5V). The original number is 12237786869 (BOSCH, BERU), you can take an analogue, for example DENSO.

Colds set in and the first winter problems began.

The first thing I saw was the oil that stubbornly wanted to leave the engine through the valve cover, the gasket of which I changed two months ago. Opening the oil filler cap, a white emulsion was found, and starting the engine and opening the cap, blow-by gases escaped from the hole. Everything became obvious - the KVKG was not working, it was decided to replace it.

Next, I'll write a quick guide to replacing it.

1. Remove the disu and the air filter with corrugations (the corrugation has not yet been removed on the throttle valve). Disa, of course, can not be removed, but for convenience it is still worth it, all the more it will not be superfluous to check its condition.

2. Next, remove the dipstick guide, after removing the tube coming from the KVKG. The guide is attached with one bolt, everything is simple. When you remove it, do not lose the sealing gum, which often turns into dust and can fall into the pallet. I recommend immediately replacing it in the original catalog, it is under the number 1431740045.

The oil dipstick guide was removed.

3. Next, unscrew the wiring harness, while removing all the chips that interfere with us. In the original catalog, this harness is numbered 12511439174 and costs around $ 700, I recommend removing it carefully 🙂

4. Remove the throttle body, which is attached with four bolts.

Throttle body removed.

5. Now we see the culprit of the problem. We disconnect all tubes from it and unscrew it.

Next, it is best to remove the decorative cover and check the tube connected to the adapter (part no. 11611440318), which you will now see below. The photo is taken by KVKG from one of the tubes, which was once replaced by someone and it was done very poorly. It can be seen that the tube is bent, but it stands in this way and the air passes through it weakly. As it turned out later, the KVKG froze, its opening showed frozen condensate, which did not allow the valve to open.

Putting it up in the reverse order. Don't forget to connect all the chips from the wiring harness!

Bottom line: KVKG was replaced with the original one, the curved tube was replaced with a more elastic and dense one. 5 hours of time were spent with periodic smoke breaks and an hour's trip for a new tube.

I express my deep gratitude to my brother for his help, he did most of the work. 🙂

Report on the replacement of the crankcase ventilation valve m52. He's kkg.

What is useful to us? -New spare parts (KVKG itself and two pipes) -Flat screwdriver-Set of wrenches

And so, having prepared and bought everything that is necessary, we begin to replace the kwkg.

Actions number 1: Take a 10 spanner and unscrew the bolt that holds our filter.

Actions numbered 2-3: Disconnect the latches from the flow meter with a flat screwdriver.

Action number 4: Relax the clamp that holds the flow meter.

Action number 1: Relax the clamp and remove it Action number 2-3: Remove the plugs

Action number 4: Disconnect the pipe

Next, we take the hexagons, and unscrew the bolts to remove the first throttle valve. And after that we put it aside. (Remove the bolts more carefully so that they do not fall on the engine protection)

Now we need to remove the second throttle valve, take the wrench and unscrew the 4th bolts. Also, after removal, we put the throttle aside.

After removing the two throttle valves, we need to unscrew the three bolts that hold our KVKG.

Disconnect 1 pipe from the engine to the KWKG. We do the same with the second one, which goes from KWKG to the probe.

Next, you only need hands to pull out our kkg.

We will pull it out through the bottom!

We change the old valve to a new one, the most important thing is to tightly insert the KKG spout into the socket that is attached to the air duct.

Then we put new pipes. With the first pipe that removes gases, there should be nothing complicated.

But with the second one, which drains the oil into the dipstick, it is heavier, before inserting it into the dipstick, you need to clean the hole in the dipstick through which the oil is drained by the kgf. For this, you will need a tube for example from under the juice. (Insert the tube into the hole of the probe, wiping it several times) After cleaning, puts on the branch pipe.

Once again, I repeat the main thing to tightly put on all the pipes and the KKG itself so that there are no cracks! Then we collect everything in the reverse order.

After we have collected everything, we start the car and let it run for a few minutes.

Surprisingly, the diaphragm was not torn, but stuck to one side of the valve. The pipes were not clogged, but they also changed to new ones.

After the replacement, the engine began to run smoother and drive faster)

The procedure itself is very simple! It took about 2a hours in time) I hope this little report will help the co-contenders! =)

The following on the list: Replacing the guru reservoir + pipes + oil

Replacing the radiator pipe + antifreeze

I want to express my gratitude to TuMa who helped in this matter.

Price tag: 4,000 ₽ Mileage: 315,000 km

Good afternoon, friends, until I finally walked before replacing the kkg, the symptoms were cold, until the arrow came out of the blue zone, the revolutions swam strongly. Now it has become almost normal, a little bit still happens. There are a lot of photo reports, but still I will post a couple of photos, we can write something new. And I also have a couple of questions. 1. It began to smell of exhaust gases in the cabin strongly, is it somehow connected with the replacement, does anyone have experience?

2. And today I was driving a yellow oil lamp lit up, the oil has not yet been checked, it’s already dark, tomorrow I’ll look, but somewhere I saw that someone, after replacing KKG, began to eat oil? in connection with what is it connected?

This is how everything looks initially, we remove the air duct there is nothing complicated, we immediately remove the DMRV with it in a more accurate way.

He took off the main one, then the corrugation, there are 2 clamps.

left to remove the last, it goes to the throttle and khh.

Here I have already removed the throttle and KXX, and removed the probe, First, it is better to remove the probe, there is nothing complicated, we unscrew one bolt and pull it up, Then we unscrew the junction box (there is such a garbage with wires) and move it as far as possible from the engine so that it does not interfere, if you remove the dipstick, it will normally move away, then mount on the KKH and 4 bolts on the throttle valve. We take out the throttle, having previously turned off all the chips, and the throttle cable, then KXX (idle valve), it is simply pulled out. and we see the KVKG itself.

Here he himself is the culprit of KVKG, for information, on M52 and 52TU they are different, on M52TU it is like on M54, just a lot in stores do not know the difference between M52 and M52TU.

Here one kind guy threw me a useful picture, it is clear which pipe goes where.So the branch pipe number 4 and number 2 are inserted on the latches, there were no problems with them, but at number 3 it is more difficult here, you unscrew the protection from above, you remove it from the latches, but the second end that goes to the very KKG, it is pulled out by turning on 90 degrees, it's almost impossible to do it there) maybe I did not do it right, but I didn’t know it, so I broke it by accident. But I still did not understand how to insert it back, it goes bent, and the pipe itself does not bend, it did not work to insert it with the KKG itself, (tell me what I did not know here) so I first inserted the tube and then put it on the KKG by force.

st0k 05 April 2016

The question is: did anyone install an oil trap (11151401218) from the S50 motor to the M52 ?. Accordingly, instead of this annoying and unreliable “marking”, i.e. kwkg (11151703484). I just got bored with this valve, membrane and everything connected with it. Because the cost of the oil catcher is lower than kwkg, why not try it and get rid of another mediocre detail.

Who has any ideas on this score? It is clear that it will take a little pokalkhozit, but I think it's worth it. THX.

st0k 06 April 2016

Everyone is fine with kkg ,?

What's not great? change every 4 years for a new one and that's it

st0k 06 April 2016

What's not great? change every 4 years for a new one and that's it

if every four years) my last died in about 10 thousand.

if every four years) my last died in about 10 thousand.

and what they put. I took the original from the officials .. actually I thought to score on this

st0k 06 April 2016

and what they put. I took the original from the officials .. actually I thought to score on this

There was no new original, there were used and new substitutes, and still the problem, the new original is 1.2 million. It's just that the original new oil catcher is about $ 40. I think it makes sense to put and forget or wait at best 4 years and prepare to buy a new one, and at worst even less.

Here the question is who can put, or tried on, or at least thought about this topic?

if every four years) my last died in about 10 thousand.

and which one did he put? usually once for all the ownership of the car changes and everything

st0k 11 April 2016

and which one did he put? usually once for all the ownership of the car changes and everything

xs, I don’t remember, it’s definitely not original, and the question is different.

Well, you can put an oil trap, and by experimenting with the selection of a PCV valve, implement another crankcase ventilation system, but you are offered to solve the problem in the simplest way and forget about this problem for as long as your car has lived. The oil washer system also requires maintenance and monitoring, and even if you find the perfect valve for your car, it will also overgrow over time and need to be replaced.

VitYan 14 April 2016

Correctly say - you have to put the original and there will be no problems. I changed it 4 years ago - everything is ok. Plus, all the tubes must be cleaned or changed, and the dipstick must be cleaned.

st0k 15 April 2016

Correctly say - you have to put the original and there will be no problems. I changed it 4 years ago - everything is ok. Plus, all the tubes must be cleaned or changed, and the dipstick must be cleaned.

there is no market, 1.3 lem for a finished valve, all tubes were changed / washed, everything is ok.

st0k 15 April 2016

Well, you can put an oil trap, and by experimenting with the selection of a PCV valve, implement another crankcase ventilation system, but you are offered to solve the problem in the simplest way and forget about this problem for as long as your car has lived. The oil washer system also requires maintenance and monitoring, and even if you find the perfect valve for your car, it will also overgrow over time and need to be replaced.

the simplest way, in my understanding, is the most expensive financially. 1.3 million is overkill. I gave 1.2 for the oil + filter.

You are not familiar with the oil catcher device, there are no valves and the like, it just needs to be installed.

if there are no valves there, feel free to put a can and two hoses, in general I am surprised why no one did this before you, then you will tell how everything works.

As I understand it, the topic can be closed, the author of the topic himself solved his problem.

st0k 15 April 2016

if there are no valves there, feel free to put a can and two hoses, in general I am surprised why no one did this before you, then you will tell how everything works.

As I understand it, the topic can be closed, the author of the topic himself solved his problem.

so the problem has not yet been resolved, the oil catcher is still on the road, it will arrive approximately on the 26th.

Actually the question was about the experience of others in installing this pribluda.

st0k 18 May 2016

So I will write it off based on the results, though not yet completely finished. An oil catcher came, it is much smaller in size than the original valve. I bought a couple of hoses and one angled tube from vw, I assembled the whole thing, the drain hose is smaller in diameter, but I climbed onto the dipstick tube without any problems. But the flange of the crankcase tube had to be cut off from kwkg and glued to the low-waste disposal unit. In short, I collected everything, it turned out very much even without a collective farm. But during the check, one jamb surfaced. M engines of the S series have six chokes, and, accordingly, the low debris was installed before the chokes, in the M52 it turned out after the choke and due to the high vacuum in the intake, the oil began to suck into the intake. Smoke was good)))).

Now I just plugged the hole in the inlet, and I want to put a small filter on the outlet of the oil washer and that's it, the oil will separate and drain into the pan, and the gases will simply go into the atmosphere.

So the question is: will it be ok with this layout ?, I have not forgotten any little things?

There is no point in writing about the inhumanity of this option, I have a plan, and I stick to it)))))

Post has been editedst0k: 18 May 2016 - 03:03