DIY laser mouse repair

There are several dead laser mice ..- the wires are intact, they are detected when connected, the buttons work. (2 pcs sven RX-510, etc.)
Everything looks whole (inside). The soldering is normal.
The LED is off - the cursor does not move.
Replace the LED - just pick it out from another mouse?

It would not hurt to check the power resistor.

And the LED - any super-bright, you can even blue, for bohemianism.

the resistor is normal ..
Conducted experiments on Sven RX-510 .. I put different LEDs, the best fit came from another mouse.
Tokoogr. the resistor was 360 Ohm at this rating, the LED glows, reacts to movement (lights up brighter), however
the cursor moves in some jerky ways to the upper left side of the screen. Trying to select a resistor (up to 60 ohms) did not improve anything ..
Maybe some kind of polarized LED was there.
Mice are small from laptops.

The bomb has been planted

Or maybe I had an infrared LED, I had several such mice, try to put it on the remote control

People, but such a question: I got a trophy mouse, A4TECH SWOP-3. only one thing - some bad man tore the wire from her. It turned out that this mouse supports both USB and PS / 2, it has 4 wires (they are bitten off inside the mouse). So, how to determine where which wire to solder into the USB connector? The contacts are not signed on the board. 3 days googling - nothing was found. Tell me who knows, please.

It is easy to find food and earth (according to the electrolyte usually present in the intestines of the mouse). The remaining 2 wires - D + / D- - by the scientific poke method.

Dear colleagues, in your correspondence with our English-speaking partners, remember: whether - which, weather - weather, wether - a castrated ram!
For some people, the torso is just a splitter, allowing you to connect your arms and head to your butt.

I changed the USB connector on the optical mouse, managed to solder everything in a mirror image.
That is, food went to the ground, and the ground went to food, and the date was also messed up.
When I redid it back, the mouse turned on, but the cursor is not in place but “shakes”,
And does not move when driving. For buttons forgot to work or not, it's a couple of weeks ago
it was, if I need to collect it, I will turn it on, I will tell you.
This mouse is kaput?

I’ll say roughly - if you turn you 180 degrees (that is, with your feet up) and put a spoonful of potatoes into the highest available hole (like your mouth), I think it will be unpleasant. So here - if the manufacturer of the microcircuit still assumed the possibility of polarity reversal during the design - then everything will be fine. And if not (which is very likely, because the simplest, affordable and CHEAPEST option for protection against polarity reversal will be a diode in the power supply circuit, but it is an infection, it eats a little voltage on itself, and it costs a little money.) get sick.

Anything that can break will break. Everything that can be repaired is repaired. So let's combine these events and have fun.

Computer mouse - probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often jams, the mouse wheel (scroll) is scrolled, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at the DIY repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired by hand. If you know how to handle a soldering iron at least a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them in place:

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small PCB underneath, which is usually only fixed on small plastic pins (although it could be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor movement twitches or disappears, if one of the wires is frayed or cut off somewhere (if, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Color scheme for wiring mouse wires

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Receiving data - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer a twist I will give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere after it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

Pressing the mouse scroll mechanism latches

To do this, take small pliers and, one by one, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press. Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian. Cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

A seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse

There are several more options:

• disassemble and clean the mechanism;
• replace the mechanism with a different mouse (with a different malfunction).

Any button has its own resource of clicks. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. The broken button is practically not repaired in any way, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. This symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch or poor contact inside the contact pad switch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher.If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch is disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this matter by re-soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

Standard mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mouse - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

It is impossible to imagine a repairman's workbench without a handy, inexpensive digital multimeter.

This article describes the device of the 830 series digital multimeters, its circuit, as well as the most common malfunctions and how to fix them. More details ...

Many people use electric sewing machines. It happens that electric drives of sewing machines, both domestic and imported, fail. Replacing an electric drive is expensive, but you can often repair an electric motor or a pedal yourself with your own hands, saving a lot of money.

Why does the line transistor fail? A line transistor knocks out for two main reasons:

• The first- thermal breakdown due to a change in the shape of the start pulses of the line transistor. A short circuit in a line transformer (PBT) can also cause thermal breakdown.
• The second- voltage breakdown mainly due to the power supply unit and microcracks.

The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can be a hassle if there is no store or a spare tailed beast nearby. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball ones, we just note that among the optical ones, laser mice are singled out as more accurate. Also, optical manipulators are of the visible spectrum (emit red light) and infrared spectrum, the efficiency of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

• screwdriver
• nippers (side cutters)
• multimeter
• soldering iron and solder
• heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of detected breakdown

The mouse is one of the devices, the reliability of which has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

• break (break) of the wire
• button failure
• broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with the bending of the wire at the base of the manipulator.This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bending when you move the mouse over the working surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain "kink" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also characteristic. Repairing a broken wire is simple: making sure that you have localized the breakage, bite off the wire a couple of centimeters higher and lower from the damaged area with wire cutters. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. Do not forget to insulate them with a heat-shrinkable tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable gland", remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or the case. For the purpose of further maintainability, I use hot melt glue. How it looks after renovation, see the photo.

Incorrect practice of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically "by ear and by touch." The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of problems with the scroll wheel, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

• Problems caused by knob operation. Outwardly, they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the knob and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the rotary encoder basket to its base. You can watch how to tighten the mount in this video clip
• Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head, creating a kind of hexagon (trying it on to the knob so that there are no cranks) and, while heating on fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the knob hole, cut it off along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I have not yet repaired many of them, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

Almost all repairs to optical and laser mice are described in the previous two articles.

When all else fails, we look at “Gaming Mice. How to choose".

Here we will talk about rare malfunctions and difficulties in repairing the latest computer mice.

Once the left-click button on the computer mouse stopped working, I re-soldered the switch, checked the clicks. I collect, after 10 clicks one misses. Thought the contact on the switch is bad, or a little dripped tin loosened. Disassembled, it seems everything is fine. Then I figured out the platform that presses on the small button of the switch. A hole has formed on it from prolonged work, well, of course, it squeezes out, then no. The photo is bad, but you can barely see what it is about.

The place of formation of the shell, at the pressing site

I had to remove the upper part of the computer mouse, it is attached with plastic fasteners.

Unfastened the fasteners, remove the pad on the upper part of the mouse

They are very easy to break. Well, then on a block or on a file we level the platform and everything is fine.

We grind the site, it is important not to mow the overall slope.

Of all the mice that had to be repaired, this happened only once. A little more often this occurs, from a fall at a computer mouse, a laser, or a lens, a mouse, how to express it, will mix up. Tupit, interaction like through a rubber drive, works but sluggishly with a delay.This is just such a case, just adjust the lens, or put it back in place. The laser on a computer mouse very, very rarely breaks down. I have never met in practice, unfortunately I can not suggest anything from him, not a physicist. 🙁

Well, now about the sad things. When repairing the last computer mouse, (the switch is broken). The soldering method of the switch is stumped. That is, if you inserted the switch earlier, and soldered the legs on the other side to the conductive tracks. Now the wiring goes from the side of the switch, technologically it is probably more profitable. It's almost a complete ambush for us. Cannot be manually soldered. To unsolder something like it happened. The board after that had a very unpresentable look. I tried to drip tin and quickly insert the leg. With one, the option to pass, but with three.

By the way, the wiring of the conductive tracks is now hidden inside the board. The way out was found like this. Since everything is miniature, I had to take a picture in macro mode. Well, on the computer, look and figure out where the conductive paths go. It's good that they go inside the board without intersections in parallel. Well, then it's a matter of technology. I stuck the switch bluntly, put a drop of solder on each leg to fix it. I soldered the jumpers to the exit from the board of the tracks from the switch legs. The computer mouse is working.

If anyone has alternative soldering methods, please announce. It’s painfully dreary to solder.

Well, that's all the manuals for the repair of computer, optical and laser mice.

When all else fails, we look at “Gaming Mice. How to choose".

Many miles to you under the belly of a computer mouse.

Mouse repair - the process of restoring the operability of the most popular computer manipulator. The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired at home.

If you know how to handle a soldering iron, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, scissors, etc.

In the article below, we will look at the most common optical mouse breakdowns and how to repair them at home.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

You can connect many different devices to a computer, however, there are two, without which it will be impossible to work with it. The first is the keyboard, without which the PC, most often, will not even boot. The second is the mouse. Without it, the computer, in principle, can be controlled, but doing it from the keyboard is very inconvenient.

Throughout the history of the development of computer technology, a huge number of different manipulators have been invented and used: trackpads, joysticks, touchpads, etc. However, nothing simpler and more convenient to the well-known mouse has not yet been invented!

The mouse is good for everyone, however, over time, like any technique, it can break down. Fortunately, standard mice are fairly simple in design and can be repaired at home, even by people far from electronics! If your mouse has recently begun to junk, I hope our article will help you fix it.

Nowadays, there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users. By the way, the photo above is just a manipulator of this type.He had a broken scroll wheel, which prompted me to write this article 🙂

However, let's not get ahead of ourselves, but consider what kind of breakdowns occur in optical mice most often:

As you can see, there are not so many typical breakdowns of a computer mouse. If you correctly identify the symptoms of problems, then they can be quickly localized and eliminated. Therefore, we will not rant for a long time, but get down to business.

To perform any kind of mouse repair, first of all, you need to disassemble it. This is usually done with a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break!

When you remove the top cover, under it you will find a small printed circuit board, which, usually, is fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be screwed to the case. Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of LED and a sensitive photosensor:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots). We are ready for initial inspection and repair!

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse does not work at all, if it is frayed somewhere or one of the wires is cut off (if, of course, the mouse is wired). A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

1. Food - red (options: golden, orange, blue, white).
2. Data reception - white (options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
3. Data transfer - green (options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
4. Earth - black (options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board).

Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 You can read how to splice stranded wires correctly here, and here I will just give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wire, try connecting the mouse to your computer - it should work. If it doesn't work, then there can be two options: either the cable is interrupted in one more place, or it's time to throw out the mouse 🙂

To exclude the option with another break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug using a multitester or other device (you can find out about the methods of dialing, again, from the article about crimping a twisted pair).

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse.

The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere after it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse. However, this already requires a certain skill, so not everyone will be able to pull it off.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article.

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

To do this, take small pliers and, one by one, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press.

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether the left one, the right one, or the one under the wheel is not important - they are all usually the same. The important thing is that the non-working button is practically not repaired in any way. You can only replace its microswitch by unsoldering a non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as “foolproof” so that you don't insert the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it.It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This case can be solved by soldering the microswitch or. programmatically! In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to “cure” double-clicking is to remove the mouse driver. How to remove the driver correctly is written here.

Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Successful repairs to you!

And although computer mice have evolved significantly since the first appearance of this wonderful device, they still break. Let's talk today about computer mice, or rather about repairing a wireless computer mouse.

For the first computer mice, the main scourge was contamination of the very ball that transmits mechanical movement to electronic sensors. Those who remember those times know that cleaning this very ball from dirt was a dubious pleasure. In addition, such a mouse required a rug, otherwise the rubberized ball did not travel well on the table.

The time has come and we got rid of this rudiment. Optical computer mice appeared. Everything would be fine, but the wire with which such an optical mouse was connected to the computer's system unit eventually fell into disrepair, and it ceased to obey its owner. The consequences of this could be dire, up to the complete destruction of a computer mouse against a merciless brick wall.

.

But here, too, our botanical friends figured out how to save us from this misfortune - the connecting wire. They began to transmit data from the mouse to the computer via radio waves. Everything would be fine, but the user of such a wireless mouse has to regularly replace dead batteries.

And now, it would seem, all the most malicious attributes have sunk into oblivion: a ball, wires. What's left? Buttons! Yes, yes, it was they who began to break down most often making our beloved computer mouse completely unavailable. As practice shows, problems with buttons are found not only in cheap models of computer mice, but also in fairly branded ones like VAIO.

But, for an avid electronics lover, such a malfunction is not only a challenge to his experience, but also a real opportunity to dig deeper into the insides of this amusing device. Moreover, if this is not a simple wired mouse, but a wireless one.

Despite the fact that the development of modern means of information input leads to getting rid of various mechanical devices, computer mice still have buttons in their composition.

On the repair table is a SONY VAIO wireless computer mouse model VGP-WMS4. Diagnosis - incorrect operation of the left mouse button (LMB). Everything else works fine. The reason is also clear. When working with a computer, we more often use the left button than the right or center button (the one under the wheel).

To open the case, we need scalpel screwdriver. The screws that hold the body together are located under the plastic tabs to reduce friction. They must be carefully peeled off from the case and put in a clean place. After the repair, we will glue them to the body again.To unscrew the screws, I had to look for a hexagonal nozzle - the screws have a figured groove.

After opening, an electronic filling appears in front of us. It was done with dignity. The left and right buttons are three-pin, momentary buttons.

If we carefully remove the scroll wheel, then under it we will find a micro button. It is this that we press when we press the wheel - this is the third, central input button.

Let's digress from the repair and at the same time study the device of a wireless computer mouse. As you can see in the photo, several microcircuits are installed on the main board. The one in the square case is rather responsible for wireless data transmission. An antenna is clearly visible on the printed circuit board, which is made in the form of copper tracks directly on the printed circuit board.

An open optocoupler acts as a sensor for rotation of the central wheel. The optocoupler consists of an infrared LED - the one in a transparent case and with two leads, as well as a phototransistor. It has a dark body and three pins.

The wheel has through grooves.

When the wheel moves, the through grooves are replaced by partitions. As a result, infrared radiation passes and does not pass through the base of the wheel. The received signals from the phototransistor go to the microcontroller, which processes the received data.

Also in the case you can find an optical system. It consists of a bright LED, a lens system and a photo sensor.

All computer mouse electronics are powered by two AA alkaline batteries (1.5V). Moreover, for the operation of the mouse, both the voltage of 1.5V and 3V are removed. A connecting wire comes off the middle contact in the battery compartment. Most likely, the voltage of 1.5V from one battery is used to power the controllers, and 3V is used to power other parts of the circuit, for example, the bright red LED, which is part of the optical system of the reader.

Let's go back to repairing our computer mouse. Finding the right replacement button can be difficult at times. But it doesn't matter. You can use another computer mouse as a "donor". As a rule, the button of the right key of many of them is working, and it can be used for replacement. An optical wired mouse was used as a donor mouse. At one time, she also died a heroic death after numerous attempts to restore the connecting wire. After a short "tail" remained from the wire, she flew to the storeroom

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Let's take a look at its device. As we can see on the printed circuit board we are already familiar with buttons, a scroll wheel, a photosensor (a microcircuit in the middle of the board), an LED and a controller microcircuit. It is worth noting that this computer mouse uses not an optocoupler, but a multi-turn encoder as a scroll wheel sensor.

This is not a buzz, since the encoder is an electromechanical part. And, as you know, everything mechanical is subject to wear and tear. The optocoupler will work more reliably in the VAIO mouse - there are no mechanical contact parts in the optocoupler.

As already mentioned, it is better to use the right button as a replacement button.

Here is the result of replacing a faulty button.

It is also worth recalling that when restoring the operation of the mouse, it is worth cleaning the scroll wheel, optical system and the case itself from dust. Since the computer mouse contains optical sensors, such prevention will have a positive effect on its work.