DIY ice screw repair

Many people complain that some of the ice screws from this company do not work well.
Indeed, it is so. I had to check two models 150 and 130 mm. The 150 works fine, and the 130 doesn't cut well. Examined and put in order using a simple device shown in the photo. By increasing the "angle of attack" of the petals by 5 degrees, to which the knives are attached using an adjustable wrench (force of about 50 kg on the handle of the wrench), excellent results have been achieved.

So, when purchasing an ice screw of this brand, be sure to take care of the adjustable wrench.

There was a temka and it said that there are two types, Polish and Swedish.
Sorry for OFF, but I still don't understand how to find them?
If possible with a photo.
With respect.

Yes, it's not off. Everything is in the subject. I posted a photo in that topic. But I also don't know how to tell the difference. I think that now there is no difference. I corrected the device - and I enjoy it.

Do not know. So far, two 150th and 130th are enough for me. Do not collect them.

Why not?!
I would become an expert.
It turned out to be a pun.

In fact, you can buy all the borax. The most important thing is to have the device in the photo with you.

Vict! Thank you. And for invention and for a sense of humor! If we run out of frost, I will quickly take the key in my hands - and on the ice.

The main thing is to benefit.
By the way, you cannot overdo it with the angle of attack, otherwise it will not turn out in loose ice later.

Mine drills normally. 130th. Did not do anything.

I'm not complaining about 130 either. The garbage, by the way, is sold for editing knives - very useful garbage, working.

Alexey, if it's not difficult - post a photo of this garbage, please. If we know what it looks like, we will buy it. A knife-edge is a useful and very necessary thing.

This is https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/239/shop/catalog/drill/accessories/5494.php
She, of course, will not save the killed knives, but the hooked ones (ex. Sand inflated on ice) invigorates well.

Thanks for the link. If they are at the exhibition at the All-Russian Exhibition Center, I will definitely buy it.

I bought roofing felts in the magician. on Taganka in the basement
roofing felts in “Fish with us” near metro Sukharevskaya.
In both places, they also sharpen unusable knives, according to reviews it's not bad, I saw these reviews in yandex in search of some conferences.
By availability, you can call in advance

Friends came in. Check out the gizmo. You will have to buy at all.

quote: Originally posted by Vict:
Thanks for the link. If they are at the exhibition at the All-Russian Exhibition Center, I will definitely buy it.

Usually I visit exhibitions on days 2-3 of their work. But he repeatedly regretted that it was not the last day when the sale of exhibits at wholesale prices is taking place.
I will make a decision on the date about a week before the start of the exhibition. It is difficult to say in advance, because the date may be adjusted in connection with the resolution of issues related to work.

quote: Originally posted by Vict:
Usually I visit exhibitions on days 2-3 of their work. But he repeatedly regretted that it was not the last day when the sale of exhibits at wholesale prices is taking place.
I will make a decision on the date about a week before the start of the exhibition. It is difficult to say in advance, because the date may be adjusted in connection with the resolution of issues related to work.

I will be on the 18th. If you will, too, call. Let's have a beer.

quote: Originally posted by Vict:
Deal!
You have dried perch! Mine, Volga!

Chur, your Tsimlyanskys, my Volzhskys. I have no choice.

quote: Originally posted by Vict:
Chur, your Tsimlyanskys, my Volzhskys. I have no choice.
Tsimlyanskie are not tasty.

I stuck the knives on the storm. Sand on the Volga grabbed. Blunted at the moment! Jinxed.

Quick
Get the money ready!
Have you tried sharpening?
All the same, our ice screws can withstand even less bullying. Today I have drilled myself into the sand a couple of times on the shallow, thinking “why is the ice so thick?”

and nothing much happened with the knives, I ran with them for a month. Then I bought some semicircular rubles for 60.
Himself all year in thought, to take Morata or all the same ours, domestic.

Our flat knives worth 60-80 rubles were enough for me for a long time. And dofiga made holes for the season. Maybe he just didn't get into the sand.
And after the trip to NV, five pairs of Mora's knives were planted.
Eh. buy a sharpener.

2Vegas
Grabbing the bottom with a drill and drilling ice and sand are two big differences. In the first case, it's okay, in the second - kirdyk knives.
I don’t believe in a sharpener, I’ll go for new knives.

quote: Originally posted by Vict:
Our flat knives worth 60-80 rubles were enough for me for a long time. And dofiga made holes for the season. Maybe he just didn't get into the sand.
And after the trip to NV, five pairs of Mora's knives were planted.
Eh. buy a sharpener.

Vit, I myself planted sand knives for the first time in all my winter fishing.

I would be glad to blunt at least some knives, and frosts. -35 in the region was.

Yeah. Well nothing! Will be on ours. jigsaw holiday!

By the way, in pursuit of Moore:
I rummaged through the devil's net - in the descriptions of the Morov boers, they indicate that the kit must include a key for the bolts. But I didn't have such a key in the box.
There are two options: either the sellers are rat keys, or the Polish seafarers do not have the keys included in the kit. Here is such, perhaps, a way to distinguish Swedish from, presumably, “non-Swedish” ones (although Swedes and brachok-s can quietly drain into Russia.).

I experimented with knives in every way - and the angle of inclination of the cutting edge changed, and the angle between the knives - everything was useless. A little bit the drill began to drill - but when half-meter ice is drilled by a fashionable Swedish drill for 60 - 70 revolutions - and neighbors rusty and crooked do it for 25 - it's not even funny. And my friend has the same garbage, Mora Expert is barely drilling.
Finally I figured it out - I checked the alignment of the head with the knives and the drill itself.
Bl %%%, THEY ARE NOT CONNECTED!
I would hand over the drill to the shop - but the check has long been lost.
And to present the Sea itself - you will get the hell out of Perm.
So, colleagues, I am posting a photograph of the defect for you to judge. As anti-advertising. I'll pile up the bunglers anyway.
... And I propose to rename the Boers “Mora Expert” to “Mora Loh”!

explain about the alignment pliz.

The auger is in two parts - a tube with a spiral, and a curved plate with screwed knives.
So, it seems to me that the plate is welded so that the knives are shifted away from the "drilling axis". Because of what they do not really work.
Here.

Age: 37
Is registered: 23.04.
Posts: 3872
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 817 [? ]

There is a question after my drill was frozen in ice, it was restored to me, it was lengthened in the form of a telescope, I set zero knives, but it does not drill and doesn’t drill with old ones either. effort although this is what they write about it. ”The peculiarity of the flat knives of the Mora ice auger is that less effort is made when drilling than with spherical knives, but more time is spent on the hole. The Mora Spiralen model is especially effective when drilling multilayer and wet ice.

When drilling dry dense ice, it is recommended to install spacers between the blades and the spiral to increase the blade's angle to the ice. This will allow for faster drilling. So the question is who and where can bring it to mind!
_________________
The largest fish caught are always those that are off the hook.

Age: 37
Is registered: 23.04.
Posts: 3872
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 817 [? ]

that's what I found in the internet! Setting up the drill

The following does not apply to cutter head drills (UR Rapala). But this is not a very big loss, the Rapala drills are made carefully, I personally have never heard of the need to adjust them.

If you want to achieve perfect (or close to it) the work of your ice screw, first of all you need to make sure that the areas on which the knives are installed are symmetrical. To do this, you will need, in addition to a working pair of knives, one more obviously dull knife. We go out onto the ice and drill several holes. Now, instead of one knife, we put a blunt one, we drill a few more. Now we are changing the dull and working knives in places, we drill a few more holes and thoughtfully assess our feelings. The second and third experiments should give the same result, if this is not the case, then the areas under the knives are not symmetrical.

The easiest way to achieve symmetry is by placing the halves of the razor blades between the knife and the platform (usually from the edge). Let's say you needed 4 blades, all from the side of the knife edge.Their thickness is 0.08 mm, which means that it is necessary to make a gasket for a knife with a thickness of 0.3 mm. The spacers can be of different designs, I advise in this situation to put a flat plate 0.3 mm thick under one knife, and a plate of the same thickness with a curved edge under the other.

If the drill works well (or worked well from the start), then you can do nothing else. But I highly recommend making a couple of 0.3mm shims and trying them out in the bitter cold. And then decide for yourself whether there is any point in further work on the drill.
_________________
The largest fish caught are always those that are off the hook.

Age: 57
Is registered: 01.02.2009
Posts: 1457
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 163 [? ]

Is registered: 31.05.
Posts: 1038
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 214 [? ]

Age: 37
Is registered: 23.04.
Posts: 3872
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 817 [? ]

Wert
Moderator

Age: 51
Is registered: 10.12.2006
Posts: 7092
Location: Novotroitsk
Reputation: 659 [? ]

Forum of the Sverdlovsk Regional Public Organization "League of Ural Fishermen"

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:51

In this topic, you can directly ask
questions to the specialist of the SC "Stella" related to
sharpening knives and repairing lebodur, namely:

- sharpening of ice auger knives of all manufacturers;
- repair of ice augers of any complexity;
- sharpening, dressing of knives (household, hunting, fishing, etc.)
- sharpening chains for chainsaws

Dear anglers, we often receive questions about the repair of ice augers,
namely, such a global problem as a violation of the angle of attack of knives on the Swedish
ice augers "Mora", as a rule, arising when the geometry of the landing
places for knives. If you have such a problem, bring it, we will be happy to help you.
Our specialist will professionally straighten the area under the knives and check it in real conditions ... on the pond.

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:52

Many customers ask a question about the quality of knives for Mora ice screws.
Everyone must have noticed that the same thing happens with domestic goods (from vodka to ice screws): they appear on the market with dignity, but over time the quality decreases, sometimes to unacceptable ones. I will refrain from broad generalizations, but alas, this is exactly what happens with the Mora ice screws.
Take a look at the knives (photo below) purchased at intervals of a couple of years. Old ones, marked "Sweden", keep sharpening for a season or more. Mediums are worse, but of a bearable quality. And the new ones (bottom photo) can only be used on loose ice, if the ice is hard, they will have to be eroded after each fishing. Judging by the reviews of friends, this is typical for all knives, and not for one of their parties. When buying knives, pay attention to the markings!

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:54

Here, a little frost let go
It was decided to check a small
a bunch of Rapal heads.

Weather, class Fishermen absent

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:54

They brought the knives in

after sharpening.

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:56

Another pretty blockage has been repaired.
They were going to throw out the knives, they persuaded to restore them.

After resuscitation

There is a burr on the knives, which later after
several holes, it will come off as it should, in no case do not try
remove it yourself.

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 08:57

They brought a copy here

After, they did not take pictures due to their appearance from others.
you cannot tell and it works as expected

Nikolay66 »24 Jan 2013 09:22

With this drill, they drilled the bottom

Now we are trying to bring it to its original form.

Nikolay66 »22 Feb 2013 00:55

Freshly sharpened Rapala knives and a bent ice screw were tested today.
Not all subjects passed the OTK.

AlexLen »10 Mar 2013 19:40

August »09 Apr 2013 15:23

Nikolay66 »09 Apr 2013 16:32

Nikolay66 »09 Apr 2013 16:38

rust7439 12 Dec 2016 02:17

AlexLen »03 Feb 2017 14:30

You just need to call
89126 three zeros 330

Users browsing this forum: no registered users and 22 guests

In the last decade, winter fishing anglers have acquired a rich selection of ice augers, both domestic and imported.But a real service department, designed to solve a considerable number of the standard set of problems arising during the operation of this fishing equipment, has not yet been created.

Probably for this reason, the editorial office receives a lot of calls, and also receives letters with questions regarding the restoration of the working capacity lost by the ice screw.

Perhaps this article will help to resolve a number of the most common problems, although the author once already considered a similar topic in the fishing periodicals.

Sooner or later, both domestic and imported ice screws begin to drill poorly in ice, regardless of what quality they originally had. But the duration of maintaining high parameters in the operation of the tool entirely depends on the conditions of its operation and the thoroughness of care for the cutting part of the ice auger.

For example, fast-flowing rivers, such as the Oka, carry a lot of fine sand in the water column, which freezes into the ice, working as an abrasive. In such conditions, the ice screw "sits down" soon. In Siberian frosts, the strength of ice becomes comparable to steel, and only well-hardened knives made of high-alloy steel take it, and those made of mediocre material become dull on the very first hole.

It is bad when, after fishing, in the warmth, frozen water thaws on an ice drill, and the knives remain wet and rust until the next exit on the ice, while the thinnest part of the blade suffers, from which the knives become dull. The thawed ice screw should first be wiped with dry flannel, and then with a cloth slightly soaked in machine oil.

You can often see the following picture: a fisherman, as if confusing an ice drill with an ice drill, strikes it with knives on the ice with force, and then starts drilling. The bottom line is sad - hardened steel does not withstand shock loads, especially in frost, when it is most fragile, and ice is strong. The corners of the knives break off, and the drill, without significant vertical force, ceases to "bite" into the ice, works noisily, with a grinding noise, scaring the fish away.

A similar result, expressed in multiple micro-spalls at the cutting edge, is obtained when anglers, in an effort to speed up drilling, arbitrarily increase the cutting angle by placing shims under the knives on the side of the blade. Here you need some experience, gained over the years, otherwise, if the cutting angle is such that at a given air temperature, and therefore the strength of the ice, the permissible loads will be exceeded, small notches will appear on the edge of the sharp edge. The fact is that during drilling, an impact interaction occurs at an oblique angle of this edge with a layer of ice. If the angle is too steep, beyond the optimum, the steel begins to chip.

Conversely, if the ice is viscous, saturated with water, and drilling is under heavy stress, it is useful to reduce the cutting angle by installing shims under the back of the knives. For this purpose, it is convenient to use the halves of a safety razor, placing them one at a time, two, etc.

The so-called flat knives, which are unevenly loaded in the process of cutting ice along the length, have such a "sensitivity" to changes in operating conditions to a greater extent. The strongest loads are experienced by the weakest parts of the knives - their sharp angles directed downward and towards the axis around which the ice screw rotates. It is they who break off the ice, and the rest of them only "picks up" the ice stratum penetrated by microcracks.

In order to somehow increase the grip length of the flat knife with ice and thereby distribute the load along the cutting edge as much as possible, the anglers thought of a simple and original move. With light pressure, sliding a steel object along the inner surface of the knife blade, they slightly fill the cutting edge outward. This simple technique can even prolong the life of a "hooked" knife, but not with broken corners, for a while.

Such actions are much better than handicraft eyeliner in place with a diamond file, becauseamateur sharpening will ruin the cutting plane, and then the knife will have to be taken out for a long time. Do not sharpen knives on the emery wheel by hand. Even if they turn out to be perfectly flat and even, which, however, is almost impossible, their cutting edges will most likely be annealed, and such knives will not bury even in soft ice. It is better to give the knives sharpening to the master working on the grinding machine. There, in the process of abrasive processing, a special emulsion is supplied to the technological zone, cooling the metal. The knives are ideally sharp as a razor, the ice drill works with them almost silently, easily entering the ice without any pressure, only under its own weight.

Ice augers with removable flat blades are produced by a number of domestic enterprises, and for a long time the "Leningrad" auger rotors have been considered the best. With perfect sharpening of knives and correct operation, they drill ice very well.

More difficult in terms of technology are some foreign firms that produce, in addition to ice augers with flat knives, screw rotors equipped with curved or so-called removable spherical heads or knives with a complex sharpening profile. This is done just to reduce the impact on each local section of the cutting edge due to the uniform distribution of the load along the entire length of the blade. Of the imported ice screws, our fishermen are most familiar with the Finnish "Rapala" and the Swedish "Mora". The former, as a rule, have a completely removable working head, while the latter only replace the knives, which is still better, because the spare head takes a decent place in the fishing box.

Auger rotors with curved knives work quickly, easily and almost silently, however, the Russian fisherman who decides to buy them will have to change their habits somewhat. The fact is that the overwhelming majority of imported drills drill clockwise, in contrast to ours - their complete antagonists.

But here is a wonderful instrument "fooling around", caressing the ice like a bride and physical influence, not to mention persuasion, is in no way amenable to. The Russian craftsman, who has a wealth of experience in the "modernization" of imported machines, as they say, is not the first time ... He boldly picks up a diamond file or rushes to the grinding wheel for the speed of execution of his plans. Commendable decisiveness, especially since at this time the expensive state machine will be left alone, and only a personal ice screw will suffer. And this will happen not because the arms are crooked, but because, as already mentioned, the knives have a complex sharpening profile, which is a shallow curvilinear groove. And you need to work along and inside this groove and not across, trying to make the tool go tangentially to the plane of the cutting edge. Therefore, for sharpening, you will need to select a round file that fits into the profile of the groove.

You should know that this or that paint color on imported ice screws indicates a different degree of hardening - surface (red) and through (blue). The former can be brought in or sharpened only from the inside, keeping at least hardening from the outside. After double-sided processing, only "raw" metal will remain, on which surface hardening (cementing) will need to be performed again, and this can only be done in a special heating furnace, and even then, if the grade of steel is known, since for each - its own temperature regime of hardening.

Blue heads can be corrected on both sides by choosing the appropriate tool for the profile and taking care not to disturb the original shape of the sharpening.

This painstaking and time-consuming process can be mechanized if a drilling or lathe and a set of ball balls are available.

There are also more complex methods for sharpening ice auger knives, for example, electrochemically, i.e. chemical etching, but again it is only suitable for blue heads, becausefor reds, the cemented layer will be “eaten away” on both sides.

If the knives cannot be sharpened at all or there is no tool, then it remains to take a triangular file and cut small sharp teeth across the cutting edge of the knives. However, this will be the last sharpening of the knives.

In conclusion, it is imperative to touch upon the transportation of ice screws and handling them during transitions and use on ice: there are also moments that can lead to damage to the tool or, even worse, to serious injury to the angler himself, his friends or fellow travelers on the trip. To prevent this from happening, the blades of the ice screw must be covered with a protective cap. If it is broken or lost, then the knives should be closed using improvised means: wrap with a rag, cut the cap out of dense foam or sew it from thick felt, put on the knives cut along the length of the rubber hose, use plastic containers for drinks, etc.

When moving on the ice to a new place of fishing, it is imperative to put on a cap, otherwise, if you slip, you can get into an extremely unpleasant situation. Having drilled one or several holes, in no case should you put an ice screw on the ice, and even more so in the snow: another angler can step on it without noticing. The brace must be installed vertically, having drilled several turns into the ice.

A. Mailkov
"Russian Hunting Newspaper No. 08 - 2002"

• Always check, especially before going out on the ice and after drilling “difficult” holes, that the knife screws are tight. This will eliminate the loss of the knife and its screws while fishing, which can leave you out of work (and this happens, and quite often). Have an appropriate screwdriver and wrenches with you (not pliers!).

• Protruding ends of screws of "branded" ice augers and too deep position of screws with a "fit" head on domestic ("Leningradskiy", handicraft) cause the formation of ice drips on the knives. This leads to the fact that the ice screw at the first revolutions "strokes" the ice without crashing into it. Do not under any circumstances try to remove the formed ice by hitting a metal scoop! In case of a miss, the cutting (one, and often two) edges of the knives will inevitably suffer, and the ice screw will stop drilling altogether. Add additional washers made of aluminum, stainless steel or regular (cadmium or galvanized) at home, align the screws so that they are flush with the planes of the knives, and the probability of icing will disappear.

• If the knives are "hooked", they can be corrected with a special "sharpener". This must be done, without removing the knives, in one pass from the center to the outside of the edge of the knife. In this case, press the guide (smooth) tooth of the "sharpener" firmly (but not excessively) to the lower (facing the ice) plane of the knife, trying not to "fill up" the edge. Fishermen are mostly rugged people; to those who did not hold anything more difficult than a pan in their hands, I recommend that you first practice on a cheap kitchen knife, in extreme cases, seek help from an experienced comrade.

• The knives of all ice augers without exception (or rather, the angle of their installation) are designed for a certain averaged monolithic ice, so they do not drill equally easily in wet and dry ice. If it will not be difficult for a strong and healthy person to make an extra three or four turns with a brace, having pulled hard, then the angle of installation can be neglected. If this is too difficult for you and makes fishing difficult, place pads under the knives on the side of the cutting edge, and that's the hat. Strips of sheet metal (copper, brass, aluminum) with a thickness of 0.5-1.0 mm and a width of 3-5 mm can be used as linings. Their length should be equal to the front (cutting) edge of the knife. By approaching or removing the spacer from the edge, you can adjust the cutting angle: under wet ice - more, under dry ice - less; it is important that both knives are set the same. The pads help out even when the knives are "hooked" and do not "gnaw" the ice.

• Sharpening knives is difficult, especially shaped and curved knives, so it is better to entrust it to a specialist. If someone, at their own risk and peril, dares to sharpen "crooked" knives himself, I strongly recommend: a) do not hold a knife in your hand when working on an electric grinder, but screw it to a holder made of plywood or a board; b) without leaning on the sharpener stone, go through the edge in one (!) pass without delay; c) be sure to have cooling water on hand (in a jar, mug, etc.).
It is easier to grind straight knives. Pour fine abrasive powder on a piece of thick glass the size of a notebook sheet, drip a little water or liquid machine oil, place the knife exactly along the plane of the chamfer and move it back and forth at least 50 times at a time, being careful not to change the position of your hands. All other methods are from the evil one, although less laborious.

• No matter how confident you are in your knives - always have a spare pair and the tools you need to install it with you. It's better to wear a little heavier than to disrupt fishing, calling yourself the most unflattering epithets.

• The screw strip, or auger, does not participate in cutting the ice, but only removes the ice crumbs from the drilling zone. The drilling force depends on how this crumb moves up: the smoother the tape of the auger, the easier it is to drill.
• To prevent ice from freezing on the auger, constantly refill the paint. To do this, it is best to use aerosol cans with a color-matched automotive enamel. Hammerite-type paint can be used.
• It is useful to cover the entire auger with automotive wax or paraffin (stearin) dissolved in petrol. Such a coating does not allow ice to firmly adhere to the auger, and when drilling the ice accumulations themselves bounce off.
• Do not knock the auger from ice with a metal scoop: rust forms on the damaged area of ​​steel, which does not destroy the ice screw by itself, but strongly inhibits the removal of ice "chips" and contributes to even greater freezing of ice. It is useful to carry with you a rubber (the simplest) mallet to remove ice from the auger. It is even easier to do this if periodically, as the auger freezes up, insert it into the hole along the lower bend of the bend: the ice will thaw in the water and you can easily shake it off.

In this post I will describe the method of adjusting the knives on the MORA EXPERT ice auger.

I bought MORA Expert 130 mm in 2003. Before that he used Leningradsky. The difference in drilling speed and comfort was impressive. Since then I have been using this particular brace and two sets of knives, which I periodically sharpen. The paint has long since peeled off the auger, but this in no way affects the excellent performance of the ice screw.

But two years ago I began to notice that my MORA began to drill worse and worse. I began to look for the reason. But outwardly, nothing has changed. He assumed that the angle of installation of the knives has changed, because when the knives begin to sit down, then we all, as a rule, increase the pressure on the ice screw, and because of this, the effect of “soaping” begins to appear more and more. In the sense that we twist, but he does not drill. (they say lathers). It turned out that the platforms to which the knives are attached with screws are gradually deformed. The treatment is clear - it is necessary to restore the angles of the knives. To do this, you need to return the platforms on which the knives are attached to their original position. But firstly, we do not know this initial position, and secondly, it is impossible to do this without a special device and tool. You can give it to specialists who perform such work, or you can go in a simpler and more affordable way. The angle can be adjusted both in one and the other direction using shims under the front or back of the knives. The pad can be made from anything, such as a beer can. The metal is soft and thin. It can be folded several times to achieve the desired thickness of the spacer. In my case, the thickness of 0.4 mm was enough for me. You can see everything in the photo.

With the help of pads, the ice drill can be made more “evil” if you have strength in your hands and you want to drill a hole in fewer revolutions, it’s more “soft” if you don’t need speed, but comfort and ease of drilling are important, but with more the number of revolutions for drilling the hole.

An ice screw is an indispensable tool for any winter fishing enthusiast. Whether it is a real fisherman or an experienced fisherman, and winter fishing without this assistant is not very interesting. Of course, you can also break through with a punch, if the ice is thin, and if the ice is thick, then you cannot do without an ice screw. And you feel more comfortable when the holes are drilled once or twice. Consider the technology of making an ice screw from a screwdriver with your own hands.

Many anglers are engaged in self-made fishing tackle and ice screw is no exception.

Nevertheless, not everyone can buy a ready-made tool, let alone a mechanized one. To make it, you need the following parts:

1. A metal pipe of the appropriate diameter.
2. Metal plates for screw production.
3. Prepare knives from high quality steel.
4. Connect all elements into one structure by welding and clean with a grinder.
5. Paint the finished tool.

In the process of work, a lathe or an appeal to a turner may be required.

The quality of drilling is influenced by:

• Hardening of the blades. Modern models of ice augers are characterized by blade hardness ranging from 30 to 70 units.
• Precision manufacturing of knives. The knives must have two cutting edges. Correct sharpening allows you to drill ice very quickly.

1. P18 steel is mainly used, although there are analogues. Pay attention to the hardness of the material, the shape and quality of the sharpening.
2. Titanium nitride plated. Blades like these last a very long time. A value of 75 indicates high wear resistance.

Fishermen use two options for making such a tool. The use of a screwdriver improves its performance due to the drilling speed.

The fishermen were able to improve the ice screw by attaching a screwdriver to it. They just realized what a waste of precious time is, especially in winter.

For manufacturing, you must have:

• Ice screw Mora (manual).
• Adapter.
• Cordless screwdriver.