DIY car paintwork repair

Many car enthusiasts have faced the problem of damage to the paint layer of the car body.

Since this type of damage is one of the most common, it is important to work out the technology of its elimination to the point of automatism. The overall success will depend on how quickly and efficiently the master will cope with such damage.

There are cases that in an effort to complete the work quickly, the craftsmen make annoying mistakes: in some places they did not finish, something was not refilled, and as a result, a marriage arises, which leads to a complaint. In addition, the quality of the work is also affected by the experience that newcomers lack. Most are not fully familiar with all the features of damage repair technology.

However, there are times when even experienced craftsmen make unexpected mistakes. Therefore, for everyone who wants to learn how to fix damage to the paint layer with their own hands, this material. It will describe technology that can help you cope with these kinds of problems.

For work, materials from 4CR company will be used. In our case, we will restore a body element from light damage. Removing it does not require restoring the shape of the part. We need to putty the area, since this will allow us to perform the necessary alignment at the micro level. Damage of this kind includes scratches, as well as scuffs, paint damage due to contact with reactive substances, etc.

The first thing that needs to be done is to prepare the site for repairs so as not to stain the car later. To do this, you will need to localize it. Body panels that are adjacent to the repair area must be covered with static foil. Attach it around the edges with tape.

After that, you need to degrease the surface so that all kinds of dirt do not interfere during sanding and putty. A water-alcohol cleaner must be used to remove inorganic substances.

Next, sanding should be done. To do this, you need to use a grinder and a P180 wheel. During this process, you will have to go a little beyond the repair area. This will smooth out all the irregularities as much as possible and prepare the surface for easy filling. In this case, you should go beyond the repair site a short distance, by 2-3 cm. We need this margin in order to make the most smooth transition from the repair zone to the unprocessed surface. It needs to be as smooth as possible.

After sanding, the surface should be blown off.

Next, you need to sand with a foam-based material, in a tape, with a gradation of P180. Then again you need to blow the repaired area. It is possible to apply a new filler to the old non-exfoliated filler, provided that it adheres well and does not come into contact with the degreaser. After doing a solvent test before, you can put a new layer. The main thing is that the old paintwork is not covered with a new filler. All coatings that lie under the old putty are considered to be dubious.

We demolish the old coating to the substrate. In the process, we use the P180. If, as in our case, a special material is used during the repair - putty for plastic, the repair area must be sanded down to the substrate. Then it needs to be blown off and degreased. At this stage, you do not need to use a water-alcohol cleaner.

Stir well the putty in the jar before use. It is important that the consistency of the material becomes homogeneous. For work, you need a small amount of material, which should be mixed with a hardener. You do not need to stir the putty with rotational ones, only performing the process with chopping movements, since in this case air gets into it, which will immediately appear on the surface.

Apply the filler carefully. Next, you need to dry it.

When processing the putty and preparing the surface for applying primer, it is necessary to use an abrasive with a gradation index of P280 and a soft substrate. The soil should not go beyond the cleared repair area, since it will cover the gloss, which should not be allowed. The permissible gradation for grinding under the ground is in the range of P220-320. It is not recommended to use abrasives with a gradation above. After you need to blow the surface. You can eliminate minor defects using a manual underlay.

The car body is a part that requires care and careful handling. Careless driving, poor road quality and other factors are often the causes of defects in the car's paintwork. The appearance of small chips on the paintwork requires repair, because it spoils the appearance of the machine and causes further damage. Therefore, drivers sometimes need information on how to remove chips on the car body.

Not a single car owner is insured against damage to the paintwork. In addition to careless driving, chips on a car appear for the following reasons:

• adverse weather conditions - hail, temperature drops;
• a road strewn with rubble;
• insects crashing into the car at full speed;
• carelessness of others, physical damage;
• incorrect car wash.

The car owner does not notice the formation of small paint chips. Only a careful examination of the body after a trip and cleaning the car from dirt helps to find possible defects. If they are found, it is advisable to repair the body as soon as possible. Leaving minor damage unattended is fraught with consequences.

Microdamages violate the integrity of the paintwork and become the reason for its further corrosion, and an increase in the area of ​​the defect will make repairs expensive. While waiting, the situation will be aggravated by the beginning of the rusting of the body. Damaged paint will not inhibit metal oxidation. In this case, the car body will require a long and costly professional repair.

The paintwork of a car consists of a primer, paint and a transparent varnish that serves as additional protection. Some paints already have varnish in their composition, so they do not require additional protection. In terms of depth, the chips on the machine are divided into damage:

• varnish;
• varnish and paint;
• varnish, paint and primer.

By type, paintwork defects are divided into:

• traces of polishing;
• "Cobwebs" - minor damage to the upper layer;
• water marks - small but visible defects on the varnish layer;
• some small scratches;
• deep scratches;

Repair is required when damage occurs to each layer, and not just scratches that have reached the ground. Small chips are much easier to repair.

Before proceeding directly to the repair, it is necessary to find all the chips on the body and assess the damage. To do this, you should carefully inspect the car, especially in the area of ​​the front bumper, headlights and radiator.

In order to properly restore a car, you should assess the general condition, determine if the soil is damaged. If the damage is not too serious, it makes sense to start repairing yourself with the help of specialized tools. There are the following ways to restore paintwork:

• restoration of varnish with polish;
• restoration of paint with a brush;
• using an aerosol can;
• repair of chipped paintwork of a car using varnish.

Before starting to apply coatings, it is required to thoroughly clean the surface from corrosion. The place of damage should be cleaned from dirt. Using sanding paper to smooth the surface, create a base for the coating.

Never use a rust converter. When applied, a stain will appear on the site of corrosion even after painting.

Next, the main restorative coating is applied. There are different methods of application, so we will consider them in more detail below.

The last step is sanding and polishing the surface. Sanding is done with P2000 paper using a rigid backing and polishing with polishing paste and a cloth. To evaluate the result obtained, it is most convenient to use water and make sure that it spreads evenly over the surface.

This restoration method is used to remove small chips on the machine. Shallow damages are covered with a special paste, anti-scratch, after drying. This helps to stop further corrosion and make the chips less noticeable. The main advantages are the simplicity of execution and the reliability of the coating. Among the disadvantages is the duration of the work.

Some car owners prefer to periodically polish the entire body. This allows you to get rid of subtle defects in the early stages, prevent further corrosion and renew the appearance of the car, giving it a shine like after painting.

Chipping with polishing paste will be noticeable if:

• in case of damage to a large area, the shade changes to matte;
• for deep scratches, the coating will not give an effective result.

This method refers to the restoration conditionally. Pencils are most often used as temporary removal of chips. This is the easiest way to repair chips on a car body with your own hands. There are three types of restoration pencils available:

• wax;
• gel corrector;
• coloring pencil.

Wax stick - used to remove chips of any depth. In appearance and method of application, it resembles lipstick. The composition of the substances of such pencils contains a corrosion inhibitor, so it is a reliable, but short-lived protection. For temporary repairs, coat the surface with a pencil without cleaning it from corrosion.

Concealer gel - the ability to do without polish for the restoration of paintwork. The liquid in such a pencil has a high viscosity and hardens for a long time. After the restoration of the defect with such a pencil, the surface does not visually differ from other areas.

Coloring pencil - a bottle of paint, ready to use. It works well to cover up small chips on the car or light damage. Particularly sensitive to corrosion. After use, the surface is recommended to be varnished and polished.

The optimal tool for eliminating large-area chips. It is made after sanding and cleaning the damaged area from the old paintwork layer. With the right color matching, the painted areas do not differ from the rest of the body.

Spray paint lasts longer than pencil paint thanks to even application. An additional advantage is the ability to paint over hard-to-reach areas.

In addition to paint, the spray cans have an auto-primer, which is necessary for painting small but deep chips. There is also acrylic paint that does not require varnish.

Varnish is the top protective layer of the coating. In case of serious damage, opening with polish is not enough. After local repair of the chip, varnish is required.

The surface is coated with varnish after the paint has completely dried. The varnish is applied in several thin layers before the surface of the damaged area slightly protrudes beyond the level of the outer part of the paintwork.After that, the unevenness is corrected by leveling the surface with the help of grinding.

Neglected defects cause corrosion. If the damage has reached the metal, an urgent repair of the chip on the car body is required.

To remove such a flaw, sand the surface around it with coarse sandpaper. In order for the paint to lay down better, the boundaries of the restored area must be flat. After cleaning the surface, treat it with a primer and wait for the layer to dry.

It is advisable to seal the chip with paint containing varnish, since when it is coated over the paint layer, the place of elimination of the defect will be noticeable.

To eliminate defects on the body, special kits are sold in car dealerships. These include primer, paint and varnish, and coating brushes. The body chip repair kit has a wide range of colors and allows you to repair almost any defects and scratches.

If minor damages are found on the car body, do not leave them unattended. Careful handling of the machine, as well as timely repairs, will keep the paintwork of the machine in good condition for more than 10 years.

Almost every car owner has at least once in his life faced the appearance of scratches on the body due to unsuccessful maneuvers. At the same time, if the car's coating is damaged so that unprotected metal areas "look out" at the place of damage, then the body in this place can begin to rapidly corrode. Body corrosion is irreversible. If you ignore the damage, this process will lead to high costs for body repairs in the future. Local painting of the car will help to avoid these costs and will not take a lot of time.

Today, local car painting is the most common way to eliminate minor defects on the body of vehicles. The paintwork of the body, although it is reliable and durable, as the car designers assure us, nevertheless, in collisions with other vehicles or, for example, with a curb, this coating can deform.

Scratches and chips occur. The car not only starts to look worse, but there is also a risk of corrosion. The fact is that the paintwork is intended not only to make the car look brutal, but also to protect the metal component of the body from external influences.

This type of work is effective only in cases where the area of ​​damage to the coating is less than 30%. If the damage is more serious, then the entire element must be fully restored. The entire area of ​​the element is varnished and painted over again.

In this case, there should be no discrepancy in colors. The local repair method is relevant only in the case of minor damage, since it is impractical to reapply the coating due to one scratch.

So, there is a car with a damaged body. The damage area is less than 30% of the body. The task of local painting is to additionally protect the damaged area, leaving the factory paintwork on all other parts of the body.

The painting process consists of the steps described below:

The entire local painting process resembles a regular repair and enamel application. The only differences are that universal materials cannot be used for local painting. They must be specially designed for vehicles.

Judging by the numerous positive reviews of car owners who have encountered such a procedure in their lives, local painting of a car has many advantages over its complete repainting.

This method is many times better than any other method for removing minor irregularities or scratches.For example, when completely painting a car for the sake of eliminating a minor local defect, you will spend much more money and time. When using so-called pencils to remove scratches, you risk damaging your car with a poor-quality product.

Full painting of a car takes on average 4 to 6 days. Local painting, depending on the scale of liquidation works, can take from two to several hours. The quality of work during local painting is incomparably higher, since attention is paid to a specific area of ​​the body, and not to the entire car.

Using a pencil takes even less time, but after that, roughness and roughness can remain on the surface of the body. The impression of deformation will remain. With local painting, this will not happen.

The cost of this type of work is much lower than the price of a complete painting. Sometimes the cost is even cheaper than using pencils to remove scratches, especially for very minor damage. And the most important advantage is that you preserve the factory paintwork of the body as much as possible. You don't have to repaint the entire body.

Otherwise, it would have a negative impact on the sale of the car. When fully painted, the old coating is not removed, but new layers are applied on top. Thus, while inspecting your car, a potential buyer can walk around it with a thickness gauge and suspect something was wrong. With local painting, it will be easier to prove that the car was not involved in the accident.

Unlike full painting, local painting can be done independently, saving money. But get ready to be patient and considerate. Safety precautions must be followed and the sequence of work steps must not be violated.

First you need to examine the deformed area of ​​the body. It often turns out that in the vicinity of the most noticeable scratch and dents, you will find a bunch of other small chips and damage that are not visible from afar. Often these scratches occur on the sills and the lower part of the front bumper. You can mark the deformed areas for clarity by sticking a piece of paper on tape. Getting down to work, you will have to remove all defects of the body at once in different places.

Before inspection, it is necessary to wash the car and place it on a flat surface that is easy to inspect. It is advisable to avoid exposure to sunlight, as glare can make it difficult to find scratches and dents.

After disassembly, the element is aligned. Leveling is resorted to only when there are serious deformations in the form of dents or notches. After sanding the surface, apply a layer of putty to smooth the surface. Next, sandpaper processing is repeated.

Be sure to wait for the putty to dry, which occurs within 30 - 60 minutes. Coarse paper is used first, followed by fine sandpaper. The primer is then applied in either one or several coats. It all depends on the nature of the damage. In case of particularly serious damage, do not save soil.

This is followed by the painting process. Painting can be done with a spray gun or with a spray can with nitro enamel. In the latter case, check the shade number. You can find the exact paint code on the car body. The varnish is much easier to choose, but it should be specially designed for body surfaces and not have a shade.

In the event that the elements were removed, it is necessary to assemble. In the case of moldings, which are often poorly attached due to lagging adhesive, it is recommended to use liquid nails or double-sided tape.

If it is problematic to paint on your own for some reason, you can use the services of a car service. An approximate list of services and their cost is shown in the table.

Damage to the paintwork of the car is inevitable during the operation of the car, regardless of its age. Driving on dirt roads at high speeds is especially dangerous, since in this case the attack by the stones on the bumper, fenders and other parts of the body only intensifies. Spot painting a car is something that all car owners inevitably face when they find small defects in paintwork and chips.

spot painting of the bumper

If you do not respond to the defect that has appeared in a timely manner, its area can increase significantly, and when moving in rainy and cold seasons, the damaged area will become a victim of corrosion, which will develop at an accelerated pace.

Therefore, the partial painting of the vehicle element must be done in a timely manner. You can entrust this to the mechanics of the service station, or you can carry out the staining procedure yourself, it is not difficult at all and does not require large material costs.

If the car owner does not have practical experience in painting body parts, there is no need to panic. It is necessary to practice a little on the old parts of the body and learn some of the subtleties of this procedure.

The peculiarities of staining will depend on many factors - the shape of the part that needs to be repaired, the type and depth of the defect and its location. In most cases, painting is necessary after dismantling the part, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the scheme for removing the part.

If the defect is located in a hard-to-reach place (a small depression), such a place will not need to be additionally polished, and this is another plus of this type of repair. When a defect has formed on the central part of a body part, you need to be prepared for the fact that it will be necessary to completely polish the repaired part.

So the car owner can take much more time and effort for such work. Do-it-yourself spot painting of a car body is a simple procedure and you can perform it efficiently even without experience.

There are several ways to repair the paintwork of a car:

Retouching details (Used in cases where the depth of the scratch or the area of ​​the defect is small. To complete the work, you will need a special pencil, the color of which should be identical to the color of the paintwork of the car. Retouching is very simple and does not require much time and special skills). It is carried out in several stages:

1. Thorough cleaning and degreasing of the surface to be treated.
2. Applying the first layer of paint using the brush that comes with the product.
3. Application of the second layer of paint after the previous one has completely dried. If necessary, apply a third layer.

Local re-painting (It is carried out in cases where the defect is significant. Part of the car body must be carefully prepared before painting, special tools are used for work - a compressor and a spray gun, in some cases a can of paint).

1. Preparation of body parts.
2. Defect filling.
3. Applying a primer to the damaged area.
4. Painting and varnishing parts.

The craftsmen who are engaged in local repairs on a regular basis develop some techniques and secrets that make the whole process more technological and correct. Here are some of them:

• In the process of filling, it is necessary to use agents specially selected for the type of damage to the body. Shallow scratches can be covered with liquid, for deep ones it is better to use fiberglass material.
• It is imperative to apply the putty with a special rubber spatula in a certain direction - first across the scratch, then along it and smooth out the damage completely.
• The color of the primer should be as close as possible to the color of the paintwork, as this greatly affects the tone of the enamel.
• It is necessary to carry out spot painting in 3 layers, each must be given time to dry (at least 5-10 minutes).
• If the paint is applied with your own hands, you need to select an enamel that has a certain viscosity. The first layer is usually done with thick paint, the subsequent ones - with a thinner one.

Observing these simple rules, you can competently perform minor repairs of the car's paintwork with your own hands.

With the help of spot repair, you can quickly eliminate all minor damage to the body and protect it from corrosive processes. The work takes place in several stages, which must be strictly followed.

The car must be thoroughly washed using special car shampoos and a soft sponge. The entire body needs to be cleaned of dirt, not limited only to the part where the spot painting of the car will be carried out.

preparation of the car for painting

The room in which you have to work must also be cleaned and all corners must be blown from the accumulated dust. Otherwise, dust can settle on the painted parts of the body, thereby causing the appearance of new defects.

Preparatory work begins with straightening the car and straightening all defects and dents, if any. You can start cleaning only after the surface has become perfectly flat.

At the same stage, it is necessary to choose the tone of the paint that will be used in the process, or to purchase a special pencil for painting the car. The tone of the paint must ideally match the existing paintwork of the car, otherwise it will be noticeable that restoration work has been carried out.

It is better to use the help of specialists who will select the required shade of paint.

The treated area must be degreased. As a result, all accumulated dust particles and residues of technical oil, which can cause new defects after painting, are removed from the surface of the body.

Then cleaning is carried out, painting of small parts will not be performed efficiently if you do not pay due attention to this stage. During the cleaning process, a small layer of enamel is removed, due to which all previously accumulated rust and moisture are removed from under it.

Cleaning is carried out using sandpaper of different grain sizes or using a special machine. Some car owners use a conventional electric drill, having previously installed the necessary attachments on it.

After finishing the treatment, it is necessary to degrease the surface again and remove all dust accumulated on it. If local painting of car body elements is carried out, the cleaning process can take a long time.

In some cases, it will be necessary to clean the surface of the body almost to metal, it must be carried out very carefully, because the quality of the subsequent painting depends on this.

By applying a filler, small dents can be masked and the part can be completely leveled before painting. The choice of putty and its application must be taken responsibly.

It is imperative to study the chemical composition of the assortment presented and find out if special materials have been added to the selected putty, which additionally enhance the strength of the treated surface.

The layer should be even; this can be achieved using a special spatula. For shallow scratches, it is better to use a liquid putty, the ideal layer thickness of this material after application is 2 mm (remember that this material shrinks a little after drying).

The first layer of putty must be applied across the scratch or damage and let it dry completely. Then the next coat can be applied along the scratch until the surface is even.

During the priming process, you can fill in all the pores and small scratches that appeared after the previous steps.The choice of primer is very important, since it determines how the paint will lay down and what shade of paint and varnish can be obtained as a result.

The primer must be applied in 2-3 layers and be sure to wait until they are completely dry. In some cases, you can apply a primer using a special spray can. After completing the priming, the surface of the body must be carefully sanded again with a fine-grained sandpaper.

Only then can you start degreasing the surface and removing dust particles from it. You do not need to get carried away with degreasing and apply too much product, since there is a high chance of softening the layers of the primer applied earlier and all processing efforts will be in vain.

Do-it-yourself painting must be carried out in several stages and it is imperative to wait for the previous layer to dry. You can use a spray gun if you have to paint a large body part.

All parts of the case that are not exposed to staining must be closed with masking tape, polyethylene or using old newspapers. You need to apply the paint very carefully, avoiding smudges and strictly follow the instructions.

It indicates some of the features of applying the enamel, how to properly dilute it and at what temperature it is necessary to dry the painted part.

Minor defects can be painted over with a special pencil. They are of several types:

• Polymer marker pencils.
• Crayons, which are used if the primer or paint layer is damaged.

It is necessary to clean the scratch before painting using the technology described above. The product can only be applied after degreasing the scratch and in several layers (if necessary) to level the paint layer.