In detail: do-it-yourself jigsaw repair devolt 349 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?
First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.
The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.
Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory. More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.
Video (click to play).
The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.
If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums. Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy
The format of your post should be as follows:
Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately. You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.
If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.
For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.
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Product information on the site may be updated within a few hours.
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[*] How are you doing with this function? [*] How does it work for whom? [*] Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
This video demonstrates how it should be ” > .
Yes, the airflow is rather weak. I don’t know the reason, I didn’t understand. Perhaps a banal flash interferes or an incorrectly cut window
On my copy, I do not feel the airflow at all. At the very base of the roller guide saw there is something like a tube coming out of the body. Apparently, part of the air from the engine should be redirected through this tube to the file and material. What is not happening. Disappointed of course. The toy is not cheap and got a marriage. I'm going to carry it to the service. But there is a premonition that there they will convince me that “it should be so” (I am a camel). In general, of course, the Dewalt service impressed with its complete lack. After him, Bosch's service seems fabulous (they have not been able to replace the sealing gum on the door of a new refrigerator for the second month already). At least you can contact them somehow.
pyhtelka wrote: On my copy, I do not feel the airflow at all.
in fact, on this model, the blowing off of sawdust is bad, on the mock it is much stronger, you can fix the situation by purchasing a vacuum cleaner
Redesign of chargers and more
Yes? A special switch on the case, then why? To turn on the vacuum cleaner? I will try to take pictures tomorrow to document my assumptions.
Anat78 wrote: in fact, on this model, the blowing off of sawdust is bad
It's cool, of course, that no one writes about this in the reviews. And they praise the jigsaw very much, in particular on this forum. I still cherish the hope that the problem is with my copy and that it will be possible to prove it in the service.
A blowing hole is solved either by a vacuum cleaner or by another person for blowing. The blowing depends on the jigsaw, both on the saw and on the material. I have not yet seen the perfect jigsaw. In any case, the brush should be at hand.
I have a Dewalt DW341k, and the same problem - no native airflow. I found the holes from where it blows well, widened them and put a guiding "curtain" so that the barrel was blown into the saw area.
pyhtelka, I have a 333rd mushroom, everything is fine with a blower
As the on-off slider works without problems, even a small adjustment of the blowing force is possible.
pyhtelka wrote: Apparently, part of the air from the engine should be redirected through this tube to the file and material
pyhtelka wrote: Recently I began to notice that the mechanism on which the file is attached is very much clogged with wood dust. I decided to turn on the blowing of sawdust
Why didn't you turn it on right away? I only work with airflow. Maybe the nozzle was clogged with resin and sawdust?
Just in case, for the future owners of this tool, I give pictures so that it is clear which hole you should pay attention to so as not to get into my situation. Just do not put your finger to the hole to check! When the jigsaw is turned on, it will crush the finger with the rod. In the store, one of the eccentric consultants almost did something similar.
O_TER wrote: I have the 331st. The blowing is strong.
Today, on the advice of those who responded, I tested the work of a jigsaw in tandem with a vacuum cleaner. I do not know how you use the vacuum cleaner when cutting, but I used the nozzle that comes with the jigsaw, which is connected to the vacuum cleaner hose with one side, and inserted into the special fasteners on the jigsaw sole on the other. During the tests, another disappointment befell me. The amount of dust flying from the cutting site with a connected vacuum cleaner practically did not decrease. The vacuum cleaner captures only a small amount of sawdust and dust from the face of the material being cut. On the reverse side, clouds of dust continue to fly (sawed laminate). I do not exclude that I am doing something wrong. Or, again, a broken sawdust blowing is to blame (perhaps a weak air flow scatters dust despite the off position of the blower switch). Share your experiences and thoughts.
Yes. And one more barrel of ointment. Only now I decided to check how the power button lock works. I haven't actually used it yet. Just after reading a few pages of the topic "Death from a grinder" I decided to check if this model has protection against re-activation. So, first of all, there is no such protection. Those. if you unplug the jigsaw from the socket with the button fixed (the jigsaw works), and then plug it back into the socket, it will immediately start working. You need to be extremely careful when using this retainer. Secondly, as it turned out, the button is not fixed in the extreme position. The number of revolutions on this model at any speed (the speed is set using the dial located on the button) can be adjusted by the force of pressing the power button to the surface of the handle on which it is located: the lower the pressure, the fewer the number of revolutions. Those. if you press the power button all the way at any speed, the jigsaw will give the maximum number of revolutions for that speed. However, as soon as the button is fixed and released, the number of revolutions is sharply reduced, since the latch releases the pressure on the button and leaves it in an intermediate position between “off.” and “max. revolutions ”.
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In the online store of household appliances "Laukar" you can download instructions for the product Lobzik DeWALT DW349 completely free of charge.
All instructions presented on the website of the online store of household appliances "Laukar" are provided by the manufacturer of the product. Before using the product, we recommend that you read the instructions for use.
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Service centers and workshops for the repair of jigsaws DeWALT
Irkutsk, st. Baikalskaya, d. 239, building 7 look on the map
Phone: +7 (3952) 22-60-29, 22-87-24
Repair of tools and construction equipment: jigsaws, power tools, drills, hammer drills, grinders, gas powered tools, generators and power plants, welding machines, compressors