DIY Pella Fiord boat repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pella fiord boat repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Fiberglass, the material from which they are made, is prone to chips, cracks, dents. The most severe damage is the hole.

Often cracks and chips occur during dashing mooring to the shore, when the ship's hull meets stones or other obstacles.

It is quite possible to repair all the damage to the plastic boat with your own hands. No special repair tools are required, it is only important to choose the right consumable.

Serious hull cracks usually occur after a significant boat collision. Simple, small cracks, this is most likely damage to the decorative layer.

Damage to the decorative layer, minor scratches and cracks will be enough to putty.

It will be possible to do it better with special putties, which include fiberglass. A distinctive feature of such putties is their increased elasticity, which allows them to be applied neatly. I will give a few examples of such putties:

Any type of putty is applied to a well-prepared surface, which must be carefully sanded and degreased.

Putty putty is applied in a thin layer, as many times as necessary to achieve the desired result. Each layer must dry, it is sanded, and only then the next layer is applied.
After the putty is covered with a primer and painted.

You can also use a one-component nitro-filler type NTs-008. It is intended for wood and metal, as well as for leveling dents along the enamel, for small cracks along the outer layer it is quite suitable.

Video (click to play).

Many materials are now available that were little known. For example, gelcoat is a liquid substance that is applied over glass cloth with resin, the thinnest layer from a spray bottle. After drying, such a layer of gelcoat will give a glossy shine and create additional protection for the plastic from mechanical stress and an aggressive aquatic environment.

Small cracks are also sealed with gelcoat. The drying time is 20 minutes, so it must be diluted in small portions. As soon as the gelcoat changed its viscosity and clots appeared in it, it was no longer possible to work with it.

If you do DIY plastic boat repairs, you will come across a variety of fiberglass on the market.

Fiberglass is available in various thicknesses; structural fabrics, such as glass satin, fiberglass mesh, are suitable for repair. There are also glass mats. Glass mat is a non-woven fabric made from chopped fiberglass.

It is advisable to use glass mat for the restoration of large holes or reinforcement of the boat hull.
To patch holes or update the case, you will need to take glass mats. Plain fiberglass is used for minor repairs and for reinforcement.

A prerequisite is the cleanliness of the fabric, if moisture, dust or dirt gets in, then there will be bubbles on the boat.

In order for the fiberglass not to come apart ahead of time, it is treated with paraffin, which must be disposed of. There are fabrics without paraffin, it is better to use them.

To remove the paraffin, the fiberglass is heated with a hairdryer.

If a large amount of fabric needs to be removed from paraffin, for example, to strengthen the entire body, then it is better to boil it down. You can boil it like this: pour water into a bucket, add soda ash, put glass cloth and lower the boiler. This can be done in the kitchen too. Boil the fabric for 20-25 minutes, let cool. The paraffin will float up and harden. Pull the fabric out and dry.

For fiberglass, both polyester and epoxy resin are used.

To repair a plastic boat, take an epoxy one, since it "sticks" better to the old hull, its adhesion is higher. The time for her to solidify is 2-3 hours, which allows her to carry out all the repair work.

In the manufacture of plastic boats, polyester resin is used; it hardens very quickly in almost 15 minutes and becomes like glass.

In order for the resin to be sufficiently viscous, it is necessary to work with it at a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

If the resin is thick, you can warm it up a little.

Dilute the epoxy resin in a ratio of 10: 1, where 1 part of the hardener.

In the event of more serious damage: deep scratches, torn cracks, holes, plastic boats are repaired using fiberglass, resin, hardener and plasticizer (dibutyl phthalate).

The shaggy edges of the crack do not need to be trimmed, the protruding fibers will help the resin to adhere better to the hull.

Dry the boat hull before repairing it. Although it is said that plastic does not absorb water, it is not.

Since the main condition for high-quality repairs when working with resin is the complete absence of dust and debris, it is better to carry out repair work indoors.

For good hardening of the resin, the temperature regime is important, the optimum temperature for such work is 18-20 degrees. If there is no wind and rain, then it can be repaired outdoors. All work should be carried out with gloves.

To avoid smudges, the surface on which you will glue the fiberglass should be located horizontally.

The process of gluing fiberglass will be as follows:

Sand the body to an undamaged fiberglass layer, the scraped edges do not need to be leveled, the shaggy pieces will provide a more thorough adhesion.
Add a hardener to the epoxy.
Spread the resulting mixture on the surface that must be pasted over, smear with a brush, do not spare the resin.
Apply dry fiberglass and smooth it out so that there are no bubbles and creases.
Remove excess resin with a spatula on top of the fabric, it is very important not to allow smudges.
After 3 hours, spread on another layer so that the surface is perfectly smooth.
Sand once completely dry.

Cover the top with a putty for plastic with the obligatory degreasing of all surfaces for better adhesion.

If, nevertheless, air bubbles formed in the process of working with fiberglass, then they must be cut and re-glued.

If the crack in the case is deep, then the resin-impregnated fiberglass should be tucked into it as tightly as possible.

If this is a hole, then glue the fiberglass from the inside of the boat's hull, and install the matrix from the outside.

By the matrix is meant a part made of polystyrene, which will repeat the boat's hull from the outside. Since you need to make a fiberglass layer commensurate with the hull of the boat, you need to take thick fiberglass.

The process of patching the hole is the same as applying layers of fabric to small cracks, only there will be more layers and each layer requires sanding.

The sequence of the repair can be seen in the video:

Previously, the necessary components were not always in the store, now you can buy the entire repair kit. Such a set costs about 4000 rubles, it includes epoxy resin, hardener, fiberglass, plasticizer.

Folk omen: You cannot lower the repaired boat the next day, be sure to get a scratch or crack again, you have to wait 2 days, then the whole season will pass without breakdowns.

Fiberglass rowing boats 4.3-meter "Pella" were produced by the plant "Pella" (Leningrad region) for many years, starting in 1971, and the last - the third modification ("Pella-fiord") is produced in a small series and until recently ... At many rental stations, tourist and hunting bases, thousands of such boats are still in operation, and decisive measures are taken every year to prolong their life.Most often, for example, they protect the worn keel and the lower part of the stem by applying a steel channel, and the upper edge of the bead in the area of the oarlocks, which "breathes" when rowing, is reinforced with a piece of square on three or four bolts.

At the request of the editors, two specialists who were involved in this work at the Priozerskaya camp site share their experience in repairing Pella boats.

The boat is not a cart, it doesn’t jump over stones, ”- this is the rule the designer usually follows, not wanting to take into account the fact that most often a small rowing boat is operated near land with daily and repeated pulling out onto an unequipped shore, sometimes rocky, and most often without special sledges or carts. Especially harsh operating conditions for boats at rental stations and tourist centers, where the boat does not have a permanent owner.

A reasonable designer, naturally, will take care of the maintainability of his brainchild. However, the plant - the builder of a large series - is trying, first of all, to significantly simplify the structure, taking care of reducing the cost of construction.

The struggle for "manufacturability" affected, in particular, the popular boat "Pella". We will consistently consider her “sore” spots and methods of their treatment, keeping in mind mainly the second model of the boat (a series of over 25,000 pieces). We will also assume that such repair operations as filling holes, deep cuts and dents usually do not cause difficulties (and, moreover, they have been repeatedly considered on the pages of "КиЯ").

1. The plastic protective profile does not hold on the outwardly molded bead flange, it jumps off; then the flange itself begins to collapse, especially intensively - in the widest part of the hull, where the nests of the oarlocks are located. When mooring at the boom, when people boarding, the boat, swinging, touches the protruding flanges for other boats, the attachments of the protective profile are loosened, and at the same time what it is attached to. This flange does not have any reinforcements fore and aft.

There are two solutions. The first and most successful one is to remove this flange (cut with emery), and instead install a fender bar from glued wooden slats from the inside. After careful grinding, this bar must be pasted over with fiberglass, overlapping the upper outer edge of the bead with fiberglass. The fender should have reliable horizontal braces - bristles connecting both branches at the bow end. The same knits should be at the stern, connecting the sides and the transom.

The second method is that the re-glued strips are installed on the sanded surfaces outside the upper edge of the bead and the lower surface of the flange and, after stitching and grinding, are pasted over with fiberglass. The bottom surface of the fender guard must be sloped to prevent it from trapping with other boats or booms.

In the same way, it is necessary to repair all illiterately built watercraft, including boats, lifeboats, yachts.

2. Place a metal plate from the inside under the bow mooring eye to unload the knot.

Better yet, install an additional eyelet near the waterline. It will be much more convenient for this lower eye to tow the boat. Even a submerged or capsized boat during towing will necessarily turn down the keel and get a trim aft, the water will begin to drain through the transom. When you stop, the water will be evenly distributed throughout the boat, which will allow you to direct a person to it to pump out the remaining water.

The main units of alterations on the "Pella".
I - Remove the plastic profile, put in the wooden fenders.
II - Place the plywood knuckles (in the nose - the shoulder) on the flange joints along the upper edge of the bead.
III - Place a steel pad under the eye; install the towing eyelet closer to the design waterline.
IV - Replace the buoyancy blocks (foam) with plastic bottles.
V - Replace the foam keel with a steel profile.
VI - Reinforce the stiffener (corrugation) with overlays from the inside and outside.
VII - Reinforce the scrap of the side under the ends of the cans with a wooden profile.
VIII - Secure waterproof bags over the top of the cans.
1 - wooden profile; 2 - pasting with fiberglass; 3 - steel profile; 4 - outer cover (steel or wood); 5 - inner lining (steel or wood).

3. The location of the blocks of buoyancy does not ensure the safety of navigation, since when the boat is flooded, emergency stability is not preserved. Tourists and boat owners may be advised to pack their gear in an even number of waterproof bags and tie them in pairs over rowing cans closer to the sides.

It makes sense to remove the foam from the buoyancy compartments (usually soaked in water) in any way and replace it with a set of plastic bottles tightly sealed with corks. You will be able not only to monitor the condition of the "buoyancy reserve", but also to replace the bottles as needed. In addition, the entire space will become available for repair, drying and cleaning from dirt. But it is better to secure the "buoyancy margin" securely along the sides under the gunwale.

4. Keel with soft foam core causes deep sadness. It often happens that when the boat is pulled ashore, the stern (or bow) is still floating, and a significant part of the load is taken up by a small area, almost a point, which leads to keel damage and wear.

Real tourists take not only scotch tape with them on a hike, but also cans of pitch and grease the holes with rags with resin.

On boats belonging to tourist centers, we advise you to cut out the foam together with the horizontal belt of the worn out - worn out - fiberglass, clean the formed groove with emery, insert and glue a steel profile with a square section with a wall thickness of 2-3 mm (such profiles are now widely used in light building structures). Holes are made in the horizontal shelves: at the bottom - 25-30 mm, at the top - 5-6 mm. Through them, the profile is bolted to the inner strip, and then filled with bitumen, PSB foam or any other material that prevents corrosion. The holes in the bottom shelf must be plugged with plugs, after which you can put the outer cover - a steel strip.

On boats of private owners, it makes sense to replace the foam with a wooden bar impregnated with an antiseptic, and again paste over it with fiberglass.

Working on two bottom stiffeners - corrugations - is simplified, since there is no foam. Fill the cavity with fiberglass and resin. From the inside along the stiffeners (as well as along the keel), lay wooden or metal strips, fastening them to the outer plates. When worn, the wooden outer linings can be easily replaced without making a “major” repair.

Another knot that usually needs to be repaired is the reinforcements under the ends of the wooden cans that rest on the molded bead ledge. Outside, under the horizontal shelf, it is necessary to lay a triangular beam glued from the rails and glue it over with fiberglass. You can limit yourself to filling the corner with fiberglass putty.

5. On "Pellefjord" (this is the third model, mastered in 1985) there are no bottom stiffeners - corrugations - but there are forward and aft blind bulkheads. This local increase in rigidity is not at all a positive role. When, when pulling the boat ashore, an obstacle in the form of a stone (logs, driftwood) appears under the sinking bottom, there is a real danger that it will push the bottom first in front of the bulkhead itself, and then immediately behind it. To get rid of this danger forever, we advise you to cut off the lower part of both bulkheads so that they do not touch the outer skin of the bottom at all, but rest without rigid attachment only on the longitudinal rigid connections of the bottom. As such connections, put keelson on the DP (you can use a square metal profile) and one on the side - the stringer opposite the false sheets installed outside (wooden slats with a lining).

Reinforce the keel, install fenders and replace the buoyancy blocks as recommended for Pella.

The repair was carried out using polyurethane glue and glass fabric T11-GVS-9 by a specialized team led by V. Alekseev.

Fiberglass rowing boats 4.3-meter "Pella" were produced by the plant "Pella" (Leningrad region) for many years, starting in 1971, and the last - the third modification ("Pella-fiord") in a small series has been produced until recently ... At many rental stations, tourist and hunting bases, thousands of such boats are still in operation, and decisive measures are taken every year to prolong their life. Most often, for example, they protect the worn keel and the lower part of the stem by applying a steel channel, and the upper edge of the bead in the area of the oarlocks, which “breathes” when rowing, is reinforced with a piece of square on three or four bolts. At the request of the editors, two specialists who were involved in this work at the Priozerskaya camp site share their experience of repairing Pella boats.

“The boat is not a cart, it doesn’t jump over rocks,” - this is the rule the designer usually follows, not wanting to take into account the fact that most often a small rowing boat is operated near land with daily and repeated pulling out onto an unequipped shore, sometimes rocky, and most often without special sledges or carts. Especially harsh operating conditions for boats at rental stations and tourist centers, where the boat does not have a permanent owner.

The struggle for "manufacturability" affected, in particular, the boat "Pella", which is popular with us. Let us sequentially consider her “sore” spots and methods of their treatment, keeping in mind mainly the second model of the boat (a series of over 25,000 pieces). We will also assume that such repair operations as sealing holes, deep cuts and dents usually do not cause difficulties (and, moreover, they have been repeatedly considered on the pages of "KiYa").

There are two solutions. The first and most successful one is to remove this flange (cut it off with emery), and instead install a fender bar made of glued wooden slats from the inside. After careful grinding, this bar must be pasted over with fiberglass, overlapping the upper outer edge of the bead with fiberglass. The fender should have reliable horizontal braces - bristles connecting both branches at the bow end. The same knits should be at the stern, connecting the sides and the transom.

In the same way, it is necessary to repair all illiterately built watercraft, including boats, lifeboats, yachts.

2. Place a metal plate from the inside under the bow mooring eye to unload the knot.

Better yet, install an additional eyelet near the waterline. It will be much more convenient for this lower eye to tow the boat. Even a submerged or capsized boat during towing will necessarily turn down the keel and get a trim aft, the water will begin to drain through the transom.When you stop, the water will be evenly distributed throughout the boat, which will allow you to direct a person to it to pump out the remaining water.

It makes sense to remove the foam from the buoyancy compartments (usually soaked in water) in any way and replace it with a set of plastic bottles tightly sealed with corks. You will be able not only to control the state of “buoyancy reserve”, but also to replace bottles as needed. In addition, the entire space will become available for repair, drying and cleaning from dirt. But it is better to secure the “buoyancy reserve” securely along the sides under the gunwale.

Real tourists take not only scotch tape with them on a hike, but also cans of pitch and grease the holes with rags with resin.

On boats of private owners, it makes sense to replace the foam with a wooden bar impregnated with an antiseptic, and again paste over it with fiberglass.

Working on two bottom stiffeners - corrugations - is simplified, since there is no foam. Fill the cavity with fiberglass and resin. From the inside along the stiffeners (as well as along the keel), lay wooden or metal strips, fastening them to the outer plates. With wear and tear, the wooden outer linings are easy to replace without making a "major" repair.

Another knot that usually needs to be repaired is the reinforcements under the ends of the wooden cans, which lie on the molded side ledge. Outside, under the horizontal shelf, it is necessary to lay a triangular beam glued from the rails and glue it over with fiberglass. You can limit yourself to filling the corner with fiberglass putty.

Reinforce the keel, install fenders and replace the buoyancy blocks as recommended for Pella.

The repair was carried out using polyurethane glue and glass fabric T11-GVS-9 by a specialized team led by V. Alekseev.

mulgikapsad 05 Jun 2006

Good afternoon, dear, please help with advice.
I have a sea pella, I got a bottom damage while fishing.
Please tell me what material and how best to repair the defect.
Best regards, Sergei.

what kind of pella is this please?

mulgikapsad 05 Jun 2006

glue the damaged area with fiberglass on epoxy resin, then putty sanding, putty sanding, priming and painting

Will the epoxy make the damaged area look too stiff?
Will the difference in elasticity of the materials cause damage?

to tell the truth, I don't know what rigidity is; any plastic hulls are repaired so that yachting, motor-submarine or rowing boats - no difference

and there will be no difference in the elasticity of materials if you follow the instructions when mixing epoxy, i.e. mix the resin, hardener and plasticizer he will give plasticity to the gluing
in the end, the hull of your boat is closed using the same technology, only the resin used is not epoxy, but polyester. by the way, you can use it too. I just get epoxy for it and use it, and it is convenient for it to be polyester

but in general, rummage in the QC in the fiberglass shipbuilding forum there these questions ALL have already been discussed more than once up and down

mulgikapsad 05 Jun 2006

And before gluing, do you need some kind of surface preparation?

It is necessary to "cut" the place of the hole - cut it out without waste until the intact plastic, the corners should be rounded, not sharp. Cut the edges "on a mustache" - make a wedge-shaped transition of the maximum possible size, to distribute the loads. On a pellet, it is 30-40 mm from the edge of the incisions (if molded on one side).

If the hole is large, you need to think about form-building support from the outside. How to do it - “create, invent, try” or upload a photo.

You can, of course, with a cloth, but it’s too painful for a hemorrhoid to gain thickness with a cloth. It is easier to use a mat or mat, and two layers of fiberglass outside are enough to protect the mat from water. The topmost layer or two is better with a mat - it is more pleasant to sand it.

Resin ONLY epoxy. The less resin, the better - it has become transparent and sufficient. There is more plasticizer (twice), so that it is not so hard, but similar to polyester. Glue in one step, without long pauses (an hour is a maximum smoke break). It is highly advisable to press with something during the polymerization if there is support from the other side (a plastic bag with sand, for example).

mulgikapsad 07 Jun 2006

Alekseev June 11, 2006

In great detail about the repair of Pella here ontent.html # top, We are doing this, we laminate a keel rail (instead of foam) on top of a stainless strip, a weak point for attaching jars and sublocks, in the factory version on bolts that are loose, we glue special stands under the jars, and connected by a monolith. And another weak point is the bow and stern jar, over time the plastic is pressed through and the pump effect is obtained, the air sat down, the jar stood up, it began to straighten and suck in water, we remove the top of the can, glue the supports and on top of the moisture-resistant plywood glued with fiberglass.

The magazine had our note about the repair of "Pella" - ask the editor for a copy. There is also a booklet “Repair of fiberglass housings”. And of course, Du Plessis “Small-tonnage shipbuilding made of fiberglass.
Use polyester, better with polyurethane - it will be easier and better quality, elasticity is adjustable. Experience in repairing even steel ships.

bulkhead glued to the bottom

The lost parts of the flange were molded on a 20mm plastic pipe wrapped in polyethylene.

Reconditioned nose flange

The cracks in the gondola were ripped and greened

Poor Pell transom reinforced with overlays

New stern can, buoyancy block and inner transom trim

The new floorboard is made of 8mm plywood and covered with gelcoat, the mooring eyes are welded
In the process, it turned out that the metal-plastic pipe is well glued with epoxy resin
the corners of the transom were reinforced, it turned out easily and firmly.

The boat was purchased at a boat base, used for rental by vacationers,
which in the end shook her. The sad state of the keel in the stern is worn out, the overhead of the front bank is torn off from the bottom, the flange in the bow and on the transom is broken off, the transom itself dangles like a rubber. According to the documents, the year of issue is 1990.
All work was carried out in the open air. The bottom was sanded first with a grinder with a petal circle, then with a belt sanding machine. Sanding without fanaticism. This is the dirtiest part of the work, the sea is dusty, only in a respirator. The keel is glued. The stern can is completely cut out due to the constructive inclination to the side stern at the passenger's wet ass. The first photos from a damaged memory card, sorry for the quality.

bulkhead glued to the bottom

The lost parts of the flange were molded on a 20mm plastic pipe wrapped in polyethylene.

Reconditioned nose flange

The cracks in the gondola were ripped and greened

Poor Pell transom reinforced with overlays

New stern can, buoyancy block and inner transom trim

I bought an old Pella Fiord boat. The transom looks flimsy, and there are gaps in the places where the cans are attached to the body. Help with advice on strengthening the transom, as well as the stern and bow cans for use under the 2.5 HP Suzuka.

There is no need to do anything with the transom. - They calmly hung it on a rolling measure 5 and drove. In one, the truth is very extreme - only the sky is visible. And when two in the boat go briskly.

The transom is very soft, you can bend it with your hands, and the stern can bent strongly and comes off on one side.

A crack is visible in the stern, it will walk under the engine. Something like this we treated with plywood (better with bakelite, if not, soak it with an antiseptic, cover it with a regular varnish). The overlays are flush with the transom on the bolts with epoxy, then on the entire width of the plywood strip on both sides, can be pasted over with fiberglass, if you want. The thickness of plywood is # 8-10 mm, nothing else. With cans a similar story, but fiberglass (s / tk) with epoxy is very desirable, and plywood is enough bars for a can on self-tapping screws with epoxy, and glue everything around with s / tk. And everything will be good, you can roll the elephant.

I hung on such a B12, if you don't drive along the waves, then the transom bends but does not break. The simplest thing is to cut a piece of plywood and rivet. The transom there is thin and thickening even with thick plywood will still allow the motor clamps to clasp it.

I gave such a Pella for nothing, or rather even 5 liters of epoxy and a skein of fiberglass to be taken away. Sorry for the off.

As I understand it, you need to remove the standard metal plate glued into the fiberglass at the factory from the stern, and glue a sheet of plywood along the entire stern and glue it over with fiberglass?

Well. it will be warmer, I will do the repair.

Chief, sometimes I ride the same boat with the same engine. Somehow, the motor in its regular place is not convenient for me, while I fish - it rests on my back, and on the go - it is inconvenient to steer. How to strengthen the transom - if you write, you will figure it out, but I would advise you to make plywood the full width of the transom and hang the motor on the side. In addition to the fact that it will be more convenient to steer, it will also be "reverse" - when df2.5 hangs in the center, it cannot be completely turned back, the boot rests on the keel.

I advise you to immediately purchase a "tiller extension" - a plastic drain pipe f50 (like.); the bell on the tiller fits well, (about 70 rubles per meter) - otherwise, when you walk alone at full speed, your nose lifts up strongly. With such a meter pipe it is convenient to steer from the middle bank, there is almost no trim

The foreman wrote:

> I bought an old Pella Fiord boat. The transom looks flimsy,
> and there are gaps in the places where the cans are attached to the body.
> Help advice on strengthening the transom as well as aft and bow
> cans for use under 2.5 HP Suzuka.

I removed the metal plate, lined the transom with 12mm plywood (red), covered it with another sheet of plywood (blue) and put in two metal strips (black). Press it to the top edge and pull it off with an 8 mm hairpin (yellow) + a couple of bolts into a strip across the board.
Something like this, if it's clear from the picture
And 5 yamaha transom breaks off without reinforcement.

> Chief, sometimes I ride the same boat with the same
> motor. Somehow, the motor in the regular place is not convenient for me
> it turns out, while I fish - he rests on the back, and on the go -
> inconvenient to steer. How to strengthen the transom - write Ali, you will figure it out, but
> I would advise to make plywood the full width of the transom and the motor
> hang on the side. In addition to the fact that it will be more convenient to steer,
> "Reverse" - when df2.5 hangs in the center, its completely back
> do not unfold, the boot rests on the keel.
>
> I advise you to immediately purchase a "tiller extension" - plastic
> drain pipe Ф50 (sort of.); bell on tiller good
> suitable, (meter about 70 rubles) - otherwise when one goes to
> at full speed, the nose bulges up strongly. With a meter such a pipe
> easy to steer from the middle bank, almost no trim

For pit 5, a pipe of 40 mm diameter and 1.5 meters long is the very boat of a cucumber.

I did it on two boats like this:
Plywood about 15mm for the entire stern (cut out from cardboard)
The standard pad on the stern side protrudes strongly, cut it out in plywood under it, and covered it with an AMG sheet from the top.
The AMG sheet is made with the expectation that it reaches the bolts for which you will then collect.
from the side of the cap, a strip with AMG from side to side.
I collected everything on two bolts F12 stainless steel, you can have insurance for the motor to the bolt.
He did not cling to the sides, the transom does not walk, they hung up to 10 forces.
I would send a photo to make it clearer, but the boat is now frozen in the boat garage.

And also, immediately make a strip of duralumin from the nose to the keel, fastened to stainless steel bolts with a baksite. (the keel is a weak point, it will wear out over time)

I'm not a very good artist, but that's clearer
red - plywood
blue - amg
yellow dots - bolts

AlexA, gave the correct and most common solution to strengthen Pella. How many times I went to them at the bases - everything is done that way.

I rode on such a long time. The boat was rented, and the engine was B-8.
It was scary to give gas, the transom sagged so much. There were cracks in the corners of the transition of the transom to the sides. Gas was given to 1 horse maximum! It is imperative to strengthen! I would recommend running a well-impregnated strip of plywood over the top. In addition, I would glue the transom and side joints with a couple of layers of fiberglass. Ideally, triangular inserts in these corners and glue over with fiberglass. The boat will be very popular with such a motor!

I was restoring such a pellet about 10 years ago. I cut down the back seat, I reinforced the shell on the transom of the fiberglass, I glued a sub-engine board made of waterproof plywood outside and inside. thick. 40 mm On the stern and sides I glued a bar of 40x30 and covered it on top with plywood with a bar along the leading edge. Everything was assembled on EP resin and self-tapping screws. a lot of curved surfaces. I set the seat as high as possible to make it comfortable to sit. I sealed all the cracks on the flanging with patches of glass mat I sanded it and drove it under B8 across Lake Ilmen to my village. To avoid trim aft, I put a bag of sand in the bow. Even M15 could not bend the transom.

Thanks everyone for the tips and photos! I think to break off the standard plate with a metal plate so as not to interfere and cut out 18 mm from a sheet of plywood from the outside along the pattern (in the figure in red), as vel81 wrote, glue it, put it on the bolts and glue everything with fiberglass with epoxy. Also, glue the plywood insert on the inside (in the figure in green) and bolt it off the stern. Cut out knits on the inner corners of plywood (in blue in the figure) and put them on self-tapping screws, also glue them with epoxy cloth.And I also think to strengthen the corner of the stern with the sides and bottom by pasting it with fiberglass with epoxy (yellow in the figure). Well, and epoxy with fiberglass, smear everything thoroughly and naturally paint over all this disgrace with polymer paint.

Thanks to Victor for the pictures by e-mail, but I didn't understand a little about the reinforcement of the sides around the perimeter with a metal corner.
Maybe the boards can be strengthened in some other way?

Ouch. 🙂 forgot the photo! I post below.

Photo

Yes, the boat is still nothing! Who would give me this one :)

Link.
Here is my old post. We made a 20 mm plywood overlay for the entire transom. Then they rolled it up, and then the AMG pads with a thickness of 5 mm.

I agree with AlexA. Everyone whom I met in this way (And I have a standard of 3.3 and a tohoy 3.5)

> put on
> bolts and glue everything over with fiberglass and epoxy.
in so many bolts it makes no sense to hold two bolts dead.

> More insert
> glue the plywood from the inside (in the figure in green)
the insert will have to be heavily adjusted. the transom is not perfectly flat, the duralumin sheet is better.

> Maybe the sides can be strengthened in some way?
seal the cracks in the gunwale with fiberglass from the outside and inside the side.

if you have already decided to do it thoroughly, do not forget to strengthen the keel with a strip of duralumin, it wipes very quickly with constant use, and then it is a big problem to restore it.

Video (click to play).

for 2.5 suspension such transom reinforcement is too much.
if you do as you intended, I think up to 10 forces can be hung up with peace of mind, only you can ride with a tiller extension)))

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