DIY boat motor Mercury 4 repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a boat motor Mercury 4 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This topic is perhaps one of the most relevant today, which is quite understandable. Long gone are the days when mainly domestic "Neptunes" and "Whirlwinds" roamed the water, and the appearance of spare parts laid out on the shore and repairs carried out, as they say, "on the knee" were perceived as the norm of life. Now a similar picture can be observed mainly in the outback. The situation has changed dramatically. The market offers the Russian consumer an almost full range of the latest water-motor equipment from abroad. The availability of engines from the world's leading manufacturers raises a number of questions, and our task is to understand them.

The first question and, perhaps, the main one, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain rpm range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.

There are a number of motors, the connection of tachometers to which is not structurally provided. In this case, when carrying out the test, it is necessary to use special tachometers that allow reading information from high-voltage spark plug wires. And to do this, you will have to again contact a service center equipped with a similar tool. And one more note: the standard propellers that come with the motor are usually matched exactly according to the results of such a test, but remember that your equipment (motor, propeller, boat, load) may become an exception to the rule.

Video (click to play).

Suppose that by selecting the propeller we have created the conditions for the engine for normal operation. But technique is technique, and breakdowns are still possible. True, there is a difference between breakage and breakdown. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to behave in a given situation. We will immediately exclude the option when the life and health of people depend on the performance of the motor - any interventions are permissible here. We will only consider the issues of current repairs.

It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from your nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.

After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with the service workers.In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation. As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears. Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing the carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative. And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.

Repair associated with the replacement of any engine components or requiring serious diagnostics directly depends on the degree of technical training of the motor owner and equipment. The range of engines currently used on boats is diverse: they are simple carburetor engines, fuel injection systems for four-stroke and two-stroke engines, with OptiMax systems from Mercury and HPDI systems from Yamaha, and with various lubrication systems. All this requires constant professional retraining even from full-time mechanics. Of course, the owner of the motor is not faced with such a task, but he will not receive complete technical documentation for his motor anywhere. It is outlined in the "Service Manual" - a book used by mechanics. It does not go on sale. And if it will probably be possible to understand low-power carburetor motors, and flaws in the repair will not cause consequences, then a sane person himself will not approach a large motor, as "packed" as possible with electronics. And with all due respect to the craftsmen, I do not advise you to trust the engine to a master from a nearby garage. It is your motor that may be structurally different from those that it has successfully repaired before.

There is one more question, the answer to which must be found before proceeding with the repair: do you have a special tool? Having been engaged in the service of imported motors for far from the first year, I have seen enough and heard enough of everyone, but more often they say one thing: “Yes, I didn't have to do it myself. And how much will it cost now? " There is only one rule: if none of the tools you know are suitable for removing or unscrewing a part, stop - most likely a special tool is required for this procedure. I will say more, the tool that you think is suitable can affect the parts precisely in those places that cannot be loaded. In this case, you will not only break the part, but also significantly complicate the subsequent repair.

What I would like to draw the readers' attention to is the problem of spare parts. Where to get them, use "relatives" or find something suitable, does a worn part require replacement or will it still serve? In my practice, there was one motor on which an anti-corrosion anode, not original, but cheap, lasted longer than the engine, but at the same time had a very good presentation. Do not assume that all non-original spare parts are rubbish. There are also very worthy manufacturers. But, in my opinion, if there is an opportunity, it is better, instead of wasting energy, time, and therefore money on finding suitable ones, to contact technical specialists and be confident in the quality of the spare parts purchased. This, incidentally, also applies to oils. In addition, experts will advise which parts you need to purchase in a particular case, since quite often spare parts need to be changed in a bundle.

Replacing one part will not always correct the problem.A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repairs, even if they are outwardly in good condition. As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.

It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true. Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect. In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies of faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.

Considering all of the above, I highly recommend making repairs, adjustments and routine maintenance at a certified service center. It is certified. If, for financial reasons or due to the territorial remoteness of such a center, you are forced to carry out repairs yourself, then, again, it is still necessary to consult a specialist.

Within the framework of one or even several articles, it is impossible to outline all the subtleties of repairing an engine. But there are general trends in the maintenance of certain nodes. The table above lists the main points that must be taken into account when starting a repair.

D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.

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I have a pit and no nuances. the candles are native, only I change the oil, it starts up cold 1-4 times, after transportation, and then always from the first

PLM f4m, f6m, are the same engine, only f6m has a different carburetor and a propeller with a large pitch. I also have f4m, I plan to order carb from f6m))

Different screws and, if I'm not mistaken, different camshafts.

Thanks for the video my friend could not decide which motor to buy now I advise you to buy a mercury 4 just a discount on this motor cost 1005.00 EUR now 875.00 EUR!

A needle jumped in - there is no such term. Often in motors, the axis of the float dangles and the float touches.

great video about the motor, super. Thank you.

good mator! I have toha 3.5 4 season ride, not any problems. river
berezina.

Expand in more detail the topic with the solution to the problem of restarting the engine after it stalls due to the consumption of gasoline in the tank. For me, it (measure 5 forces of 4 cycles) starts only after settling for 15-20 minutes. Thanks in advance.

I have a measurement of f6. If the candle is not native, the problem may be in it, it must be DCPR6E or an analogue. Or a new portion of gasoline does not enter the hot carb because of the airlock until it cools down.

I already thought about this, I will definitely take it next season

take a portable tank with a pear - very convenient! there is no need to add anything (especially on the waves it is not convenient to do this), and it is much faster to burn out the benz after fishing - the hose is turned off, for 1-2 minutes and that's it, there is no smell at home or in the car.

Hello, I can't decide which motor to buy 2 or 4 stroke, the width of the river is 1 km, a homemade boat made of 4 m plywood is designed for 4-5 hp, we only go for mushrooms. I would be grateful for the advice.

Incorrect information about 4-stroke, at least about new ones. I call them a “sippy” oil can not be drained.

if you don’t need to walk on duty at low speed, then you don’t need a 4-stroke. 2-stroke is lighter and cheaper, it can be transported and stored in any position, 4-t. Only vertically or lying on the tiller, but in 2-t. It is necessary to add oil to the gasoline. The choice is yours !

Hello! Please tell me I have a 3.5 HP measurement from 4 strokes at idle it works fine, but on the net I give gas to all the cotton in the carburetor with smoke and the engine stalls please tell me what could be the matter

Andrey Kadyukov
A new plug, and unscrew the top cap so that there is no vacuum in the tank

The merk cuts off the twists itself, but it is not worth it to gas a lot in place, the lubrication system may not keep up if the oil is more viscous than 5W40. And cotton because of a misfire, there are a number of reasons.

no need to turn full throttle in neutral. this can lead to exceeding the maximum permissible speed. to warm up before fishing, it is enough to rattle for 2 minutes in the “restart” position. as the speed becomes stable - you can go.

Hello, tell me I have a measure of 5 forces 4 stroke fuel is being overflowed from the carburetor, what's the matter, thanks.

Disassembled 5 times until it came to the float where the needle is there is a small hole on the float where the needle is, so in this hole the needle got a little stuck and the engine overflowed, at low speeds the engine stalled, riveted a little and everything is ok, But not all carburetors have a hole there

It is necessary to periodically clean the carb, gasoline in our country, precipitation and plaque complicates the operation of the fuel system.

+ sergey korchagin, good afternoon! As a rule, fuel overflow from the carburetor is due to the sinking of the float. Try to drain fuel from the carburetor if there is a sump drain in the carburetor. If it is easy to knock on the carburetor, then as a rule the float comes out of dead center. If this method does not help, then you will have to disassemble the carburetor. And there is only one reason - jamming of the float.

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A guide to the assembly, installation, adjustment and installation of the PLM on the boat with the selection of the optimal pitch of the propeller.

There is more than one way of "dismantling, disassembling" and "mounting, assembling" specific parts, assemblies and parts of the PLM; in this regard, it is recommended to carefully read the entire procedure before repairing.

IMPORTANT: Before carrying out any repair work, be sure to read the following.

In many cases, disassembly of an assembly or unit may not be necessary until cleaning and inspection reveals and establishes that such disassembly is necessary to replace one or more parts.

The maintenance procedures in this section represent a typical disassembly and reassembly sequence. To ensure correct assembly and repair, this sequence is recommended to be strictly followed without any deviations. When carrying out partial repairs, it is necessary to follow and follow the instructions up to the replacement of the repaired part, part, unit.

Unless otherwise indicated in the description, all threaded parts of the parts by default have a right-hand thread (PR - RH).

If necessary, use a vice, presses, hammers, etc. use soft metal sponges (eg copper, timber, etc.) or other similar means to protect parts and parts from damage. When pressing in or pressing out bearings, use appropriate mandrels of the required diameter and size, which will only come into contact with the end surface of the bearing races.

When using compressed air to dry parts, assemblies and components, make sure that there is no moisture and / or oil in the compressed air line.

When disassembling the transmission, all bearings must be cleaned, inspected and checked. Clean with a solvent; drying - with compressed air. Direct the air so that it passes through the bearing without causing it to ROTATE. with a lack or absence of lubrication, their rubbing surfaces can be scratched. After cleaning, lubricate the bearings with Quicksilver Gear Lubricant. DO NOT LUBRICATE Outer Tapered Races / Seals / Bearing Rings prior to inspection and inspection. Lubricate only after inspection.

Inspect and check all bearings for roughness, seizing and lateral wear of the cages, while holding the bearing by the outer cage and shaking the cage laterally.

When inspecting tapered bearings, determine the condition of the rollers and inner race by checking the outer race / sleeve / ring for pitting, scratches, grooves, scoring, uneven wear, build-up particles and / or discoloration (tarnishing) from overheating. Always replace the tapered bearing and the cage only as a set, and not separately.

The condition of roller bearings is determined by inspecting the surface of the shaft that rests on the bearing. Check the shaft surface for pitting, scratches, grooves, galling, uneven wear, build-up particles and / or discoloration from overheating. If this is found, the shaft and bearing must be replaced.

ADJUSTMENT SHIMS

During disassembly and assembly, keep a record of the number and location of all shims / washers. It is imperative to follow the installation instructions for shims during assembly. gears must be set to the correct seating depth and have a properly set backlash / backlash to prevent grinding and premature gear wear and breakage.

Replacing all oil seals, packing rings, packing rings and components is considered normal, standard maintenance: i.e. REPLACEMENT of all O-rings and oil seals, regardless of their external condition, is MANDATORY. To prevent leakage around the glands, apply Loctite 271 to the outside (full diameter) of all glands in metal housings. When using Loctite sealant on glands or threads, the surfaces of the glands must be pre-cleaned and dried. For ease of installation and assembly, apply Teflon grease (2-4-C w / Teflon Lubricant) to all O-rings and apply Teflon grease (2-4-C w / Teflon Lubricant) to the inside (full diameter) oil seals.

Before installation, to avoid post-assembly corrosion damage, apply high quality Quicksilver Perfect Seal or 2-4-C w / Teflon or 101 Lube to the outer surfaces of the bearing carrier and to the cap nut threads. NEVER get Perfect Seal in the bearings or in the area of the O-rings.

When adding or changing gear oil, visually check for water in the oil. If there is water in the oil, it may have accumulated at the bottom and will pour out before the oil, or it may mix with the oil to form a milky mixture. If water is found, check the transmission for leaks. Water in oil can lead to premature bearing failure, and at freezing temperatures will turn into ice and damage the outboard motor gearbox.

Whenever removing the drain filler plug, check the magnetic end of the plug for metal particles. A small amount of metal filings or small metal particles indicates normal gear wear. Too much sawdust or large particles (debris) may indicate abnormal gear wear.

Repair manual for outboard motor gearbox here

The first and, perhaps, the main question, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain speed range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.

It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from the nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.

After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with service workers. In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation. As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears.Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing the carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative. And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.

Replacing one part will not always correct the problem. A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repairs, even if they are outwardly in good condition. As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.

It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true.Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect. In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies of faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.

D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.

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Only by replacing the carburetor, because replacing the jets does not give a result, the mixture turns out to be rich. It is necessary to change the carburetor, due to the fact that there are different sizes of diffusers.
Another difference in Article: 34-17666
Name: STOP, REED VALVE (plate valve retainer)

Powerhead assembly
815042T04 price RUB 88 385

Price: 73 rub. powerhead assembly
Reference: 3303-812648T
Name: CARBURETOR
Price: 9371 RUB.
The price is reasonable, but from 15 to 20 4 cycles, the replacement of the carb by 42 thousand.

Last edited by Sverch on Jul 26, 2016 09:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

ED
Buy a jet nozzle.

Batona-Guram
ED, and how is the cooling? an old pump is needed and a torsion shaft.

The attachments seem to go with their own shaft. And here is an ambush with fanfare.

Added by (13.10.2010, 08:31)
———————————————
Looked closely, he's 4 hp, but give the shield all the same.

gerych
On the nameplate, look for a lot of information in the Internet, I completely found the instruction on my own - disassembly-assembly. Zap. parts can be in sakura, but it is better to climb on the Vladivostok site, most likely they were brought from Japan.

Den555
take him to the mercury at krasnooskovskaya. there to figure it out for sure.

Tourist
Den555, do you have any idea how much they will ask for, it will be cheaper to buy a Verado 225.

Sasha
By the way, in the store on Krasnomoskovskaya there is a type of the same motor, well, like a rarity

, I really don't remember how many horses he has.

Den555
Tourist, well then it remains only to exercise on your own

find used reducer on this motor is very unrealistic, the motor is ancient, and easily rarity.

to have an idea of how much the wages cost. at mercury, look here, also mercury 4:

by the way, you can find the exact model and year, if the nameplate is in place, by the reference number by the selection method.

I think 40 thousand spare parts are being picked up. with this money you can buy a new motor.

Another option - I'm not a specialist in rarities, of course, but the motor in this form can be of value, i.e. you can sell it stupidly and buy a new one.

try to place the announcement at least here:

with greetings from israel. yyy

Batona-Guram
Tourist,
Hello.The gearbox is at work, I wanted to restore it, but apparently it will not work. There was an internal thread on the side where the gearbox is going, it is not there, it is torn off. There are gears, bearings, oil seals. The gearbox is first assembled into some kind of bushing, then the bushing is inserted into the body itself gearbox and then, as I understand it, it was tightened with a nut. There is a tube from the pump and a torsion shaft, but the shaft is bent and rust has eaten the seats for the pump oil seal. There is no pump itself and I have never seen it in my eyes. There is also a screw from it.

View from the side of the tiller - there are shafts from the top, from the pump and the torsion bar, the cooling tube.

Side view-

Well, you bent, the motor of the 90s of the last century, what nafig value? Three thousand to him the price, and whoever has spare parts.

I wrote that I was not a specialist in rarities, but the design in mine is like that of motors from the 70s-80s.

Batona-Guram
Tourist, lord,
I was told that he was in the 70s.

Batona-GuramIf you restore it, it goes over any new one.

He's a real campaign: D, in the sense of amerikos. Den555, the case says, take it to the dealers, let them look.

otozh. Tady is a rarity already. do not think there is something to grind and grind. if the head is in good condition, there is a chance to sell it for normal money. there are people who collect takin motors and are willing to pay for them.

Batona-Guram
lord,
I’m not going to bore and alter anything. I want to restore it. With soot, everything is in grease. It’s a pity I had pictures, but I got them. I have to make new ones.

Batona-Guram
Tepsei,
and they have no Internet address? I don't have a pancake to go to you. to start to write off.

Moscow dealers, Velkhod service. t. 8- (495) -626-14-17.

Muscovites have their own website called VELKHOD.

ED
Rarity is not a rarity, but surely someone has the same one lying around with a killed CPG.
It's a pity to throw it away, and there are no spare parts (or they bite).
It should be shorter

throw information in the right places. Maybe someone will respond.

Batona-Guram
ED,
I like it on some Vladivostok website, the administrator told me that such motors were not delivered to Russia. And he says it’s not clear where I got it from. I turned to him for spare parts. He seemed to find the gear case for me. But I asked for it if I memory serves 25 thousand. And I am a small person and I have no prosperity like in Moscow. I don’t have such money. Although I myself don’t know where the engine came from .. We bought a vortex 25 in the village and gave it to us in addition. We removed the hood there is still everything in grease, well, they took him. That's it. I shouted here. Maybe who knows what, who suddenly has such or spare parts. Well, I hope in short for help and good luck.

Batona-Guram
ED,
friend. well you know very similar. but our stickers are red and he has blue.

The rings were in good condition, but one broke during assembly. I was lucky, I found 2 new rings, in my city, there was no kit, only two had to be replaced.
I did not order rings in America, I did not know that when I insert the pistons into the block, the ring will break.

I replaced one piston pin and needles, in the remaining pistons the piston pin play was small.

There was water in the gearbox (emulsion).
And the keel of the leg is broken and boiled.
Through this cuff of the gearshift rod, water penetrated into the gearbox. I could hardly find the hole. There is a new oil seal and gearbox oil seals.

Here is the bottom pivot shaft mount bracket. All holes are completely broken.
When tightening the nuts, the bolts of the salen blocks parted, while temporarily undermining with a turbine and a mill, leveled the plane under the nuts, now when tightening the bolts of the salen blocks do not part.

To my great regret, I did not immediately notice this, and I did not order this stock to America, now I have to wait a month again, order a bracket and check valves with nylon balls.

Replaced almost all oil seals, gaskets, rubber rings (sealing cuffs).
Fuel pump membranes and gaskets.

Half of the bolts in the exhaust plate are so acidified that they broke, Drill out the bolt from a hard stainless steel, when there is a soft alloy around the bolt, this must be done, it took a day for this, I drilled out five bolts in total. Thank you there is a drilling machine.

There is a decent play of the hydraulic cylinder rod, the hydraulic lift, while I left it as it is, I was too lazy to go to the turner. And so for 3 months I have been tormenting this motor.

I hope my sad experience will help someone in the repair, or in making / not deciding to buy old Mercs.

Video (click to play).

The motor is 99% assembled. Tomorrow I will start. The reason for the overflow and wet candles, I think, was the absence of a nylon ball in the check valve.
To prevent overflow, I will temporarily drown all the tubes from the automatic suction.
I will turn off the oil pump (tank with oil) and dilute the gasoline with oil manually. In order to exclude possible incorrect mixing of oil with gasoline.
Everything is new in the gas pump, there are no holes in the new membranes, I immediately exclude the gas pump.
The carburetors have new needle valves.

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