DIY suzuki 30 outboard motor repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Suzuki 30 outboard motor from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

It is necessary to seal these holes on the flywheel with tape. For a flywheel hike, a whirlwind puller is suitable.

People know how to fuck such a technique.

buy yourself 10 pieces of Chinese, break it and throw it away, they are better and cheaper, do not touch the quality of the Japanese with your crooked hands and then declaring that it’s loose, it’s jammed, and still don’t forget a 5 kilogram mallet so that it’s in Russian the first time.

you yourself did something at least once. from what is. do and then leave comments.

this video. filmed to be seen. what can be done from nothing. and a Chinese man I have been running for 4 years. if only for something. your hands are straight.

in short, even though a foreign car but all the bolts from scratch must be stretched.

three bought, such motors. such a defect,

And I wanted to take suzuki. That does not start, then aluminum beef. o - breaks, loose, jammed. I'd better take a new Chinese, if they do it under warranty.

I'll tell you a secret 4that they came up with such a thing a long time ago.

Maniacs without a doubt.

Well done guys! It's as if I'm going to bat in the garage, moved to the ussr

Damn, that's why I do everything myself and do not go to the invche services, they will do the same and will start 5 minutes without water and will talk about it is not hammered enough not enough I looked and was horrified right on the video they burned the impeller go and overheated

Nice motor, they couldn't kill it!)

jammed in gear. neutral slips .. I should at least find out what could be the reasons .. to know where to climb. on the shore, no one faced such problems. but it started like that, but it didn’t seem to be in neutral at low speed, since the boat was going forward. added a gas engine .. the engine started to work wrong .. and the thrust did not go as it should .. and it felt like it switched by itself .. and stalled. at speed ..

Video (click to play).

A forum for communication between fishermen, hunters, lovers of active recreation of the Kola Polar region and not only.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair

Alexander51 »27 Sep 2012, 17:10

Elena, Murmansk »27 Sep 2012, 17:44

engine overheated?
If the boot (deadwood) was not removed then:
Check the cylinder head (cylinder head) on the cutter. You can use an EQUAL metal ruler in EIGHT directions (like a cross, only the cross is not 4 lines, but eight). dips and holes should NOT be more than 0.1 mm. (usually no more than 0.05)
If the cylinder head is even, but still there is a breakdown, look at the fender surface of the block. (chips or shells)

You can also check the cylinder head for crack (S)
... Screw in the candles on the removed cylinder head and fill the combustion chamber with kerosene. If there is a crack, then kerosene will seep through it, for better clarity, the back side of the cylinder head can be smeared with chalk (whitewash) kerosene flowing through the crack on whitewash (chalk) is very clearly visible.
If the gaskets are correct and the block and the cylinder head are not behaved, then either the tightening is not correct or the cylinder head gasket is “sticky”

Alexander51 »27 Sep 2012, 18:42

Elena, Murmansk »27 Sep 2012, 18:56

Semyon »12 May 2013, 20:50

Magus »12 May 2013, 21:05

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair


Magus Experienced Messages: 8225 Registered: Apr 09, 2011 7:03 pm Where: Murmashi Thanks: 3512 times. Thanked: 3398 times. Name: Lyokha Additional Information: .
And smears a burnt back with yogurt
Foolish Thomas without a cross and an apartment
I can't even believe
That I live.

Technics: Badger HD 350-Toha 25 telephone: 9212732692

Semyon »12 May 2013, 21:25

Magus »12 May 2013, 21:48

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair


Magus Experienced Messages: 8225 Registered: Apr 09, 2011 7:03 pm Where: Murmashi Thanks: 3512 times. Thanked: 3398 times. Name: Lyokha Additional Information: .
And smears a burnt back with yogurt
Foolish Thomas without a cross and an apartment
I can't even believe
That I live.

Technics: Badger HD 350-Toha 25 telephone: 9212732692

Semyon »12 May 2013, 22:11

STORM »13 May 2013, 08:25

Semyon »13 May 2013, 19:00

lopatin »04 Nov 2013, 20:13

The motor stood for a year in the garage after running in.
Launched today after such a long break.
In general, no problem, but the jet does not come from the control hole of the cooling system. At the same time, water runs well from the outlet itself (warm-hot, depending on how the engine is turned.) .. Today we left for 2 hours, the jet did not appear. At the same time, it is indicated in the manual that “turn off the engine if water does not come from both holes”.

From one basic comes. but something is all the same restless without advice.
what could be?

P / S / Do not flush the system at the end of the season after salt water.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair

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Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repair

Electronic multipoint injection is standard on all modern Suzuki four-stroke engines. Due to the larger engine displacement compared to the previous model, Suzuki DF115ATL outboard motors have improved traction characteristics. Among the innovative Suzuki technologies in this model, it is worth noting the water sensor in the fuel filter and the Lean Burn Control System depletion technology, which saves fuel up to 14% (data obtained as a result of measurements carried out by Suzuki engineers). To control the fuel combustion conditions, a knock sensor (Knock Sensor) was added to the cylinder block, and an oxygen sensor (O2 Sensor Feedback Control System) was added for the proper functioning of the fuel depletion system. This model allows for multi-tiller installation, as well as a two-stage reduction and an offset drive shaft, which help to reduce the size of the engine, balance, reduce vibration and ensure better motor performance.

To begin with, it is worth comparing the main characteristics of the motors.
That is, the dependence of power on rpm and what kind of torque both have, depending on power. In most cases, this determines the dynamics. But we do not have a wheel, but a screw, which means that there is no stop at 100%, like a wheel on asphalt. We will deal with this elementary, a little later. Data on Suzuki on the propeller is all there, in the first message.

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Vortex has power and torque graphs. I do not remember where it was published, you have to look. And it would be great to find similar graphs with characteristics on Suzuki. This, in fact, will give an unambiguous answer about the dynamics of both motors.

I will try to explain in words with a small number of equations, on the stop of the screws of both motors and how this affects the dynamics.
Let's say that our power and torque characteristics coincide by 100% for both motors.
Or not, let's make it easier.
Suppose we have a Suzuki motor and a Vortex reducer with a propeller, adapted for installation on the motor.
That is, conditionally, we compare only the gearbox and the screw.
Now let's see what our native Suzuki screw's stop is with a pitch of 12 inches, we will consider it, since 12 inches is 304.8, which is very suitable for comparing it with the Vortex screw with a pitch of 300.
Based on the data obtained, we have:
RPM 5800, speed 45, reduction Suzuki 2.09

I am too lazy to write formulas and calculations, since there are such works in another topic.
So we will count on a calculator, which just does not take into account the slippage factor.

The speed without slipping the propeller is 50.5 km / h Actual 45.
So the slippage is 10%
Let's say that we put a gearbox and a Vortex propeller on Suzuki.
The Vortex Reducer has a different coefficient, if I am not mistaken in my 1.73.
This means that the propeller on the same 5800 engine will make more revolutions per minute than the Suzuki propeller.

Unfortunately, there is no data for an accurate calculation of the Vortex screw slip, but this is no longer so important.

The bottom line is to determine the percentage of slippage of the screws of both motors, at different speeds.
This requires experimental sea trials, say, according to this algorithm.
1) Whirlwind - revolutions 1500, speed?
2) Whirlwind - rpm 2000, speed?
3) Whirlwind - speed 2500, speed?
And so on, for both motors, up to maximum RPM.
After, according to the data obtained, an elementary calculation of slippage.

Comparing the slippage of both screws at the same speed will give a complete picture of the screw stop.
According to the results of which, it is possible to draw a conclusion about the efficiency and dynamics.

That is, everything is actually not difficult, let's say the efficiency of the Vortex screw at speeds of 2500-3500 is only 60% (40% slippage)
And the efficiency of the Suzuki screw is 80%. Therefore, Suzuki's emphasis is higher and the load on the motor, respectively, is the same higher.
This means that the acceleration dynamics are slower, since the motor has not yet reached its maximum power and has not accelerated the boat to a given level. That is, Suzuki is straining, trying to gain momentum, while due to the low efficiency, the Vortex has already gained them much faster and is approaching maximum power.

The figures for the efficiency of the screws above are conditional, for understanding the issue.
And don't forget about the reduction ratio.
That is, we recalculate the propeller speed.
Suzuki. K = 2.09 5800: 2.09 = 2775.
Vortex. K = 1.73 5800: 1.73 = 3352.

Let's just say - on a car to determine the dynamics, we would have completely dispensed with only the data on the power and torque graph.
But our screw is not a wheel and we must take into account its peculiarities of work, in comparison of the dynamics of two motors.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairDnepr 15 Jul 2005

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairSandrO Jul 20, 2005

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairDnepr 20 Jul 2005

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairSandrO 01 Aug 2005

... The quality of our fuel is not ideal and it is probably necessary to dilute its deficiencies with oil.

Unambiguously, increasing the proportion of oil in the mixture does not solve the problem of fuel quality.
And even vice versa: an increase in the amount of oil in the mixture worsens the ignition of the mixture, IMHO.
Regarding the DT40 - perhaps it needs a 1:50 ratio - this is a completely different engine.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairAlek Apr 06, 2006

Thanks for the answer!
But my sellers strictly ordered the oil to be poured in a ratio of 1:50.
I also read the instructions and saw the recommended proportions, in which I agree with them. The quality of our fuel is not ideal and it is probably necessary to dilute its deficiencies with oil. And one more observation, we have a DT40 on the dock, it is already underway with automatic mixing. The owner is my friend and, at my request, measured the oil consumption from a 20 liter barrel. gasoline. Naturally, an accurate measurement did not work out, but on average it took 380g. and this turns out to be almost 1:50. So I draw conclusions as the manufacturer himself sets up the lubrication system.
Thanks again for the answer!

When I bought a new dt-30, the dealer warned me: on the break-in oil-125 and after 150

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repaircrabbers 08 Apr 2006

Hello Capitam.
Guys help with advice. Maybe cog had a similar experience.
Suzuki DT30 purchased this spring. The first imported long-awaited and very beloved motor. Correctly run in and naturally not raped by skiers or trolling. The problem is that after he stands the night without work, I start it with such difficulty. Even to say with difficulty does not say anything. I twist it with an electric starter for 4-6 minutes. I tried different options with both suction and gas and pumped up and did not pump up in one word I used all my 20 years of experience with boat (though Soviet) motors. What I don't understand is when it stands for a week from weekends to weekends, it starts from the third time without suction and at idle, but as soon as the fishing night is done, everything is just dead. I do not fire gasoline from the carburetor. I talked with the service department of the sellers, they cannot say anything new and intelligible except that I am already doing it. I would be glad to have any opinions and recommendations.
Thanks in advance for your help.

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most likely there is a lot of oil lёsh, native candles will not work with so much, especially if you are idle a lot. Maybe the suction flap still does not close completely.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairAlek 10 Jan 2007

If the engine with a distance, do not forget to use the solenoid valve for the carburetor flaps (choke): on Suzuki, turn the key to the ignition position, push it forward and start without releasing. On Mercury Honda and some other models, the valve is activated when the gas flag is raised on the remote. the machine all the way up, while the click of the valve will be heard. Usually this is enough for trouble-free starting.

Yes, in fact it works. The whole problem is that the engine is new, I got it with bourgeois instructions. But otherwise, after the Whirlwind, this is just a skzkzka. I AM SATISFIED with it to horror.

Hello Capitam.
Guys help with advice. Maybe cog had a similar experience.
Suzuki DT30 purchased this spring. The first imported long-awaited and very beloved motor. Correctly run in and naturally not raped by skiers or trolling. The problem is that after he stands the night without work, I start it with such difficulty. Even to say with difficulty does not say anything. I twist it with an electric starter for 4-6 minutes. I tried different options with both suction and gas and pumped up and did not pump up in one word I used all my 20 years of experience with boat (though Soviet) motors. What I don't understand is when it stands for a week from weekends to weekends, it starts from the third time without suction and at idle, but as soon as the fishing night is done, everything is just dead. I do not fire gasoline from the carburetor. I talked with the service department of the sellers, they cannot say anything new and intelligible except that I am already doing it. I would be glad to have any opinions and recommendations.
Thanks in advance for your help.

I am looking for Suzu without sucking, 30, 40, 115, 140, 175 mares when it's warm.
If it is below 15 heat, then the first time without suction, and then by 12, usually it takes.

Image - DIY Suzuki 30 outboard motor repairANTON SUZA 250 DF 16 Jan 2009

Hello everyone, I apologize for not on the topic of the question of what kind of oil to pour into the Suzuki 250 DF 4-stroke engine, and is it possible to pour synthetics for a car into this engine, if so which one?

Today I was in the service of suzuki in St. Petersburg. Asked the same question. They showed me the 2005 motor. with a jammed hardener, connecting rod. They said that synthetics were poured there. And they also said that it is necessary to pour what is written in the passport. Although I pour Mobil 3000 synthetics myself and I like it. The motor sounds quieter, softer. At idle, it shakes, goes without gaps. DF motor 6.

Service manual. Service manual for Suzuki suspensions from 25 to 30 HP. Service manual Suzuki DT 25/30

Service manual. Service manual for Suzuki suspensions from 25 to 30 HP. Service manual Suzuki DT 25/30

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