In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Suzuki 30 outboard motor from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
It is necessary to seal these holes on the flywheel with tape. For a flywheel hike, a whirlwind puller is suitable.
People know how to fuck such a technique.
buy yourself 10 pieces of Chinese, break it and throw it away, they are better and cheaper, do not touch the quality of the Japanese with your crooked hands and then declaring that it’s loose, it’s jammed, and still don’t forget a 5 kilogram mallet so that it’s in Russian the first time.
you yourself did something at least once. from what is. do and then leave comments.
this video. filmed to be seen. what can be done from nothing. and a Chinese man I have been running for 4 years. if only for something. your hands are straight.
in short, even though a foreign car but all the bolts from scratch must be stretched.
three bought, such motors. such a defect,
And I wanted to take suzuki. That does not start, then aluminum beef. o - breaks, loose, jammed. I'd better take a new Chinese, if they do it under warranty.
I'll tell you a secret 4that they came up with such a thing a long time ago.
Maniacs without a doubt.
Well done guys! It's as if I'm going to bat in the garage, moved to the ussr
Damn, that's why I do everything myself and do not go to the invche services, they will do the same and will start 5 minutes without water and will talk about it is not hammered enough not enough I looked and was horrified right on the video they burned the impeller go and overheated
Nice motor, they couldn't kill it!)
jammed in gear. neutral slips .. I should at least find out what could be the reasons .. to know where to climb. on the shore, no one faced such problems. but it started like that, but it didn’t seem to be in neutral at low speed, since the boat was going forward. added a gas engine .. the engine started to work wrong .. and the thrust did not go as it should .. and it felt like it switched by itself .. and stalled. at speed ..
Video (click to play).
A forum for communication between fishermen, hunters, lovers of active recreation of the Kola Polar region and not only.
Alexander51 »27 Sep 2012, 17:10
Elena, Murmansk »27 Sep 2012, 17:44
engine overheated? If the boot (deadwood) was not removed then: Check the cylinder head (cylinder head) on the cutter. You can use an EQUAL metal ruler in EIGHT directions (like a cross, only the cross is not 4 lines, but eight). dips and holes should NOT be more than 0.1 mm. (usually no more than 0.05) If the cylinder head is even, but still there is a breakdown, look at the fender surface of the block. (chips or shells)
You can also check the cylinder head for crack (S) ... Screw in the candles on the removed cylinder head and fill the combustion chamber with kerosene. If there is a crack, then kerosene will seep through it, for better clarity, the back side of the cylinder head can be smeared with chalk (whitewash) kerosene flowing through the crack on whitewash (chalk) is very clearly visible. If the gaskets are correct and the block and the cylinder head are not behaved, then either the tightening is not correct or the cylinder head gasket is “sticky”
Alexander51 »27 Sep 2012, 18:42
Elena, Murmansk »27 Sep 2012, 18:56
Semyon »12 May 2013, 20:50
Magus »12 May 2013, 21:05
Magus Experienced Messages: 8225 Registered: Apr 09, 2011 7:03 pm Where: Murmashi Thanks: 3512 times. Thanked: 3398 times. Name: Lyokha Additional Information: . And smears a burnt back with yogurt Foolish Thomas without a cross and an apartment I can't even believe That I live.
Technics: Badger HD 350-Toha 25 telephone: 9212732692
Semyon »12 May 2013, 21:25
Magus »12 May 2013, 21:48
Magus Experienced Messages: 8225 Registered: Apr 09, 2011 7:03 pm Where: Murmashi Thanks: 3512 times. Thanked: 3398 times. Name: Lyokha Additional Information: . And smears a burnt back with yogurt Foolish Thomas without a cross and an apartment I can't even believe That I live.
Technics: Badger HD 350-Toha 25 telephone: 9212732692
Semyon »12 May 2013, 22:11
STORM »13 May 2013, 08:25
Semyon »13 May 2013, 19:00
lopatin »04 Nov 2013, 20:13
The motor stood for a year in the garage after running in. Launched today after such a long break. In general, no problem, but the jet does not come from the control hole of the cooling system. At the same time, water runs well from the outlet itself (warm-hot, depending on how the engine is turned.) .. Today we left for 2 hours, the jet did not appear. At the same time, it is indicated in the manual that “turn off the engine if water does not come from both holes”.
From one basic comes. but something is all the same restless without advice. what could be?
P / S / Do not flush the system at the end of the season after salt water.
Do not forget to say thank you for the files by leaving a review.
Electronic multipoint injection is standard on all modern Suzuki four-stroke engines. Due to the larger engine displacement compared to the previous model, Suzuki DF115ATL outboard motors have improved traction characteristics. Among the innovative Suzuki technologies in this model, it is worth noting the water sensor in the fuel filter and the Lean Burn Control System depletion technology, which saves fuel up to 14% (data obtained as a result of measurements carried out by Suzuki engineers). To control the fuel combustion conditions, a knock sensor (Knock Sensor) was added to the cylinder block, and an oxygen sensor (O2 Sensor Feedback Control System) was added for the proper functioning of the fuel depletion system. This model allows for multi-tiller installation, as well as a two-stage reduction and an offset drive shaft, which help to reduce the size of the engine, balance, reduce vibration and ensure better motor performance.
To begin with, it is worth comparing the main characteristics of the motors. That is, the dependence of power on rpm and what kind of torque both have, depending on power. In most cases, this determines the dynamics. But we do not have a wheel, but a screw, which means that there is no stop at 100%, like a wheel on asphalt. We will deal with this elementary, a little later. Data on Suzuki on the propeller is all there, in the first message.
Vortex has power and torque graphs. I do not remember where it was published, you have to look. And it would be great to find similar graphs with characteristics on Suzuki. This, in fact, will give an unambiguous answer about the dynamics of both motors.
I will try to explain in words with a small number of equations, on the stop of the screws of both motors and how this affects the dynamics. Let's say that our power and torque characteristics coincide by 100% for both motors. Or not, let's make it easier. Suppose we have a Suzuki motor and a Vortex reducer with a propeller, adapted for installation on the motor. That is, conditionally, we compare only the gearbox and the screw. Now let's see what our native Suzuki screw's stop is with a pitch of 12 inches, we will consider it, since 12 inches is 304.8, which is very suitable for comparing it with the Vortex screw with a pitch of 300. Based on the data obtained, we have: RPM 5800, speed 45, reduction Suzuki 2.09
I am too lazy to write formulas and calculations, since there are such works in another topic. So we will count on a calculator, which just does not take into account the slippage factor.
The speed without slipping the propeller is 50.5 km / h Actual 45. So the slippage is 10% Let's say that we put a gearbox and a Vortex propeller on Suzuki. The Vortex Reducer has a different coefficient, if I am not mistaken in my 1.73. This means that the propeller on the same 5800 engine will make more revolutions per minute than the Suzuki propeller.
Unfortunately, there is no data for an accurate calculation of the Vortex screw slip, but this is no longer so important.
The bottom line is to determine the percentage of slippage of the screws of both motors, at different speeds. This requires experimental sea trials, say, according to this algorithm. 1) Whirlwind - revolutions 1500, speed? 2) Whirlwind - rpm 2000, speed? 3) Whirlwind - speed 2500, speed? And so on, for both motors, up to maximum RPM. After, according to the data obtained, an elementary calculation of slippage.
Comparing the slippage of both screws at the same speed will give a complete picture of the screw stop. According to the results of which, it is possible to draw a conclusion about the efficiency and dynamics.
That is, everything is actually not difficult, let's say the efficiency of the Vortex screw at speeds of 2500-3500 is only 60% (40% slippage) And the efficiency of the Suzuki screw is 80%. Therefore, Suzuki's emphasis is higher and the load on the motor, respectively, is the same higher. This means that the acceleration dynamics are slower, since the motor has not yet reached its maximum power and has not accelerated the boat to a given level. That is, Suzuki is straining, trying to gain momentum, while due to the low efficiency, the Vortex has already gained them much faster and is approaching maximum power.
The figures for the efficiency of the screws above are conditional, for understanding the issue. And don't forget about the reduction ratio. That is, we recalculate the propeller speed. Suzuki. K = 2.09 5800: 2.09 = 2775. Vortex. K = 1.73 5800: 1.73 = 3352.
Let's just say - on a car to determine the dynamics, we would have completely dispensed with only the data on the power and torque graph. But our screw is not a wheel and we must take into account its peculiarities of work, in comparison of the dynamics of two motors.
Dnepr 15 Jul 2005
SandrO Jul 20, 2005
Dnepr 20 Jul 2005
SandrO 01 Aug 2005
... The quality of our fuel is not ideal and it is probably necessary to dilute its deficiencies with oil.
Unambiguously, increasing the proportion of oil in the mixture does not solve the problem of fuel quality. And even vice versa: an increase in the amount of oil in the mixture worsens the ignition of the mixture, IMHO. Regarding the DT40 - perhaps it needs a 1:50 ratio - this is a completely different engine.
Alek Apr 06, 2006
Thanks for the answer! But my sellers strictly ordered the oil to be poured in a ratio of 1:50. I also read the instructions and saw the recommended proportions, in which I agree with them. The quality of our fuel is not ideal and it is probably necessary to dilute its deficiencies with oil. And one more observation, we have a DT40 on the dock, it is already underway with automatic mixing. The owner is my friend and, at my request, measured the oil consumption from a 20 liter barrel. gasoline. Naturally, an accurate measurement did not work out, but on average it took 380g. and this turns out to be almost 1:50. So I draw conclusions as the manufacturer himself sets up the lubrication system. Thanks again for the answer!
When I bought a new dt-30, the dealer warned me: on the break-in oil-125 and after 150
crabbers 08 Apr 2006
Hello Capitam. Guys help with advice. Maybe cog had a similar experience. Suzuki DT30 purchased this spring. The first imported long-awaited and very beloved motor. Correctly run in and naturally not raped by skiers or trolling. The problem is that after he stands the night without work, I start it with such difficulty. Even to say with difficulty does not say anything. I twist it with an electric starter for 4-6 minutes. I tried different options with both suction and gas and pumped up and did not pump up in one word I used all my 20 years of experience with boat (though Soviet) motors. What I don't understand is when it stands for a week from weekends to weekends, it starts from the third time without suction and at idle, but as soon as the fishing night is done, everything is just dead. I do not fire gasoline from the carburetor. I talked with the service department of the sellers, they cannot say anything new and intelligible except that I am already doing it. I would be glad to have any opinions and recommendations. Thanks in advance for your help.
most likely there is a lot of oil lёsh, native candles will not work with so much, especially if you are idle a lot. Maybe the suction flap still does not close completely.
Alek 10 Jan 2007
If the engine with a distance, do not forget to use the solenoid valve for the carburetor flaps (choke): on Suzuki, turn the key to the ignition position, push it forward and start without releasing. On Mercury Honda and some other models, the valve is activated when the gas flag is raised on the remote. the machine all the way up, while the click of the valve will be heard. Usually this is enough for trouble-free starting.
Yes, in fact it works. The whole problem is that the engine is new, I got it with bourgeois instructions. But otherwise, after the Whirlwind, this is just a skzkzka. I AM SATISFIED with it to horror.
Hello Capitam. Guys help with advice. Maybe cog had a similar experience. Suzuki DT30 purchased this spring. The first imported long-awaited and very beloved motor. Correctly run in and naturally not raped by skiers or trolling. The problem is that after he stands the night without work, I start it with such difficulty. Even to say with difficulty does not say anything. I twist it with an electric starter for 4-6 minutes. I tried different options with both suction and gas and pumped up and did not pump up in one word I used all my 20 years of experience with boat (though Soviet) motors. What I don't understand is when it stands for a week from weekends to weekends, it starts from the third time without suction and at idle, but as soon as the fishing night is done, everything is just dead. I do not fire gasoline from the carburetor. I talked with the service department of the sellers, they cannot say anything new and intelligible except that I am already doing it. I would be glad to have any opinions and recommendations. Thanks in advance for your help.
I am looking for Suzu without sucking, 30, 40, 115, 140, 175 mares when it's warm. If it is below 15 heat, then the first time without suction, and then by 12, usually it takes.
ANTON SUZA 250 DF 16 Jan 2009
Hello everyone, I apologize for not on the topic of the question of what kind of oil to pour into the Suzuki 250 DF 4-stroke engine, and is it possible to pour synthetics for a car into this engine, if so which one?
Today I was in the service of suzuki in St. Petersburg. Asked the same question. They showed me the 2005 motor. with a jammed hardener, connecting rod. They said that synthetics were poured there. And they also said that it is necessary to pour what is written in the passport. Although I pour Mobil 3000 synthetics myself and I like it. The motor sounds quieter, softer. At idle, it shakes, goes without gaps. DF motor 6.
Service manual. Service manual for Suzuki suspensions from 25 to 30 HP. Service manual Suzuki DT 25/30
Service manual. Service manual for Suzuki suspensions from 25 to 30 HP. Service manual Suzuki DT 25/30
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The engine pounded. He began to reanimate.
The result of improper run-in, emulsion and God knows what else, in the second year of life, the engine pounded. Grinding the crankshaft, connecting rod. I am slowly starting to assemble. In this regard, many questions arose. Landing crankshaft-connecting rod 0.02mm. A little, a lot? Does the piston have “up” and “down”. From the Internet, according to the pictures, I determined what was there. Right or wrong? Is the finger firmly in the piston or does it have a floating fit? It fits me exactly, but moves freely in it. The piston at the top dead center does not reach the edge of the sleeve about 1mm. How should it actually be? I am worried that after grinding the compression ratio will greatly decrease, I did not measure it and did not remember it when disassembling it. What is the allowable vertical play of the crankshaft? I have 1-1.5mm. In the oil pump, the clearance between the rotor and the rotor plate is 0.4mm. Isn't it a lot and how much is needed? During operation, the candle skirt was always in oil, the electrode was not. If you rise in price, after gas re-gasing. Maybe this is due to the valves, more precisely, due to the wear of the valve stem. Understand correctly, I'm interested because I can't find anything on the internet can. On the forums I found the phones of workshops in Kiev, they answer there it's a secret. Prompt, otherwise you will have to go to the "pull" on the oar.
Post has been edited by Shubenin: 01 May 2010 - 21:29
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idakan Hello everyone. Created a theme for 4-stroke SUZUKI DF25-30A * S engines of a new model range, 3-cylinder injection, with el. control units. We share our experience of using and maintaining, repairing and modifying these motors, features and tricks.
idakan Who doesn't use such a motor? I bought my DF-25ARS this winter
and has not yet exploited. I want to immediately stifle and 30 forces, and put a jet nozzle, but on these motors nozzles only E.Chance, who knows what for them. Is it worth it to immediately sort out the bearing assembly? or the season to leave.
idakan I bought myself an E.Chance attachment,
collected everything seems to be fine. I immediately bought a pump set, because I am going to use both the gearbox and the nozzle, and the pump from the gearbox does not fit either.
I also bought a quick hitch at a fishing academy,
according to the special offer with a discount in honor of the holiday. here not everything is quite smooth, in the courtyard of the 21st century and with drilling they have a byad, okay they could not make holes under guides, but the holes on the two plates to match it is not difficult, I had to modify it a little.
The syringe that comes with the kit does not syringe at all, well, or my hands are not under it, who uses what syringes, where predominated ?!
King idakan, corrected the message, it is better to insert photos from a new line, otherwise it tears the page.
idakan, Gennady, can you have a photo of this syringe? In this nozzle, on the drilling of technological holes, there were complaints. It is necessary to exclude this moment. And the correctness of the assembly during injection can be understood. partially.
You can talk about it in more detail.
andrreich
idakan,I have the same. I will express my observations about the syringe and everything connected with it. Maybe it will smile at someone, but these are my conclusions that do not pretend to be true. The syringe that comes with the kit is also very useless. there you just need to create a little pressure in the tube and that's it. Shakes in small portions, which is very important. The design of the bearing unit does not tolerate a large, pressure, and volume of lubricant per unit of time, since you can push and unscrew the cuff or the oil seal. This is especially easy to do on the river, with a large temperature difference between the snail (water) and the syringe (air). The grease, in the snail, is in this case very thick and poorly dispersed along the technological holes. I believe that this is the beginning of many cases of failure, subsequently, of the bearing assembly. For myself, I decided that it is superfluous to squirt on the river in short excursions, it is safer at home in a warm box. If, nevertheless, it is time to do this in terms of the run time, then it is better with a hot, raised engine and not, in the morning. If you are wrong, correct it. And in order not to clog the topic, on the nozzle, it is better to answer in a personal.
Andrey, it is impossible to unscrew the cuffs and oil seals with grease, since it presses from the inside, they can only pass the grease through the edge. Theoretically, if it was wrapped during assembly (like mine with a Chinese nozzle), it can be turned into its original position with lubricant, but the spring most likely slipped off.
andrreich SergeiL, Sergey, on my C-Pro (2015) the oil seals were exactly like this, towards the main ,, stream ,, of lubrication, therefore I made such a conclusion. When replacing the bearing, I installed a branded cuff with a spring and an oil seal, turning them the other way around, so it is really difficult to wrap them up, they will sooner pass through the edge. Yes, I wanted to add a little on the assembly. There are two rubber sealing rings on the bearing assembly, which I didn’t pay attention to for the first time. It is good that they are tightly gray. when assembling the snail, you need to be careful with them. When extrusion, this moment, the absence of one of the rings, is immediately revealed - a large amount of lubricant leaves.
Outboard motors are a great unit that makes life much easier for owners of both metal and rubber boats.
The outboard motor is also relatively simple to handle and operate. With its help, any person will be able to drive the boat after a few hours of practice.
However, the operation of outboard motors and the repair of outboard motors are completely different things. And outboard motors should be repaired by professionals!
Contact us at "Lenremont" - and we will carry out repair and maintenance of outboard motors of all types and models.
Is it possible to repair a boat motor with your own hands?Yes, you can. With one important note - if this is not a very difficult breakdown.
For example, you can independently change candles, gaskets, oil seals.
What else can you do?
If there is no fuel in the carburetor, flush its filter, check the correct connection of the gas hoses, the serviceability of the gas hoses, and the dirt in the fuel tank intake.
If there is no spark in the candles, check their serviceability, clean the breakers, clean the spark plugs from carbon deposits. Also check the integrity of the capacitors and coils. Finally, the problem may lie in the closed Start button on the ground.
If the engine starts but stalls quickly, remove the screw in the fuel tank cap, flush the fuel tank with gasoline and change the fuel if water or oil gets into the tank.
If the engine knocks, tighten the flywheel nut, repair the cooling system.
If the boat does not move with the engine running, replace the propeller pin if it is faulty. Also, the cause of the malfunction may be in algae wrapped around the screw.
If the trigger cord is not stretched, replace the trigger spring, clean the bearings and lubricate them with petroleum jelly.
And if you still cannot cope with the repair of outboard motors or do not want to do it yourself - feel free to contact Lenremont!
1. We carry out repairs to outboard motors of all models and types.
2. We carry out repair of all parts and parts of outboard motors.
3. We have our own specialized workshop for the repair of outboard motors (as well as any gas equipment) at 32a Kievskaya Street. After carrying out diagnostics and determining the cost of spare parts, the client pays the cost of spare parts before starting the repair. Diagnostics of outboard motors - 990 rubles (in case of repair it is FREE). Urgent diagnostics in case of refusal to repair, +1000 rubles to the total cost of diagnostic work.
4. Our masters are real experts in their field. They have at least 5 years of experience working with outboard motors, regularly undergo retraining and perfectly understand all the subtleties and nuances associated with motors.
5. Warranty - for components 4 months, for the repair itself - 1 year. If you are not satisfied with the repair, we will not make long scandals, but simply refund the money.
If you want your motor to work like new, without knocks, noises and interruptions, call +7 (812) 344-44-44!
Suzuki 30 outboard 2-stroke high power motor. Model equipped
a solid base that retains it if mishandled. For maximum sound insulation and durability, the unit is cooled with water. Thanks to the unique trapezoidal piston rings, power losses during transmission to the crankshaft are kept to a minimum.
The Suzuki 30 outboard motor is used with classic metal and large inflatable boats. The power of the unit is enough to transport several people along with a lot of equipment, and its low weight allows it to be installed on a small vessel. In this case, the feed does not have to withstand a significant load.
In addition to the main advantages inherent in all Suzuki products, the model has other features that make it extremely popular with Russian shipowners. Suzuki 30 is equipped with a shallow water system, which almost completely eliminates the possibility of damage to the propeller when driving near stones or rocks or driving in shallow water. The engine is equipped with a special protection system against overheating and improper operation. The noise from its operation is minimal and allows passengers to feel as comfortable as possible in the boat.
Another advantage of the Suzuki 30 unit is the presence of an electric starter and manual start. In this regard, the model differs markedly from most of the brand's products, in which the launch approach is somewhat simplified.As a result, with significant reliability and power, the owner of the motor receives a convenient 2-stroke unit with three speeds, a large engine capacity and unsurpassed quality of elements. The owner will also be pleased with the modern Japanese assembly.
Despite the fact that the Suzuki 30 motor is produced abroad, it is fully adapted to the difficult weather conditions in Russia. The model copes well with strong currents, is not afraid of cold and water. Even an inexperienced owner can operate the unit. This does not require special training or skills, since starting the motor is made extremely safe and simple. There is a starter on the front panel of the case, and ignition is performed using a proprietary system with high reliability. In a matter of seconds, the engine picks up 5000-5600 rpm. It can also work in the neutral position.
Complete set of the Suzuki 30 model:
user manual;
engine;
screw;
fuel tank;
check;
remote control;
tools;
mounting bolts;
a fuel hose supplemented with a pear;
cable adapter.
By purchasing this unit, you can be sure that it will serve for several seasons without failures. A special anti-corrosion coating protects it from rust even in harsh operating conditions. The model does not require any special maintenance. Suzuki 30 gained popularity in our country due to its reliability and unpretentiousness.
This outboard motor is equipped with a remote fuel tank that can hold 25 liters of fuel. The fuel consumption of the unit is rather big, but for this class it is quite normal - about 10.5-12 liters per hour. On average, a full refuel is enough for 2.5 hours of operation. It is recommended to use AI92 fuel with the unit.
The Suzuki 30 outboard motor is lubricated by premixing. The motor has a generator and 3 gears (forward, rear, neutral). The screw is protected by a rubber shock absorber.
working volume - 499 cubic meters cm;
rated power - 30 hp;
number of cylinders - 2;
cylinder diameter - 71 mm;
maximum rotation speed - 5000-5600 rpm.
The engine is installed on boats with a transom height of 381 mm. The mass of the device is 56 kg, so it is rather difficult to carry it alone.
The Suzuki 30 engine break-in is standard for this brand. It is necessary for the normal operation of the unit in the future. The process itself takes place in several stages. For the first 15-20 minutes, you need to start the engine and let it idle. In this case, use a fuel mixture in a ratio of 1:25 (oil and gasoline). 40-50 minutes is required to let the engine run at 40% of the maximum power in open water. For the next 2 hours, operation takes place at 50-75% of maximum power. In the final 4-5 hours, the engine should be used at 75% of the maximum rpm, occasionally bringing it to maximum power (4-5 minutes). Upon completion of the break-in, it is necessary to change the oil.
Alexey bought a Suzuki 30 outboard motor in 2011 in the salon of the city of Volgograd. After the unit, Vortex 30 felt the difference immediately. During operation, the motor has never disappointed. In comparison with analogues of other brands from Japan, the cost of the engine was 10,000 rubles lower, which was the reason for choosing it. Naturally, I expected a trick, but the motor did not disappoint and is still working. Numerous vacations, fishing trips and just water rides are perfect.
With an average load, the actual fuel consumption is 12 liters. However, the indicator depends on the load of the vessel. The unit was used with the Krym-M motorboat. In calm weather, the Suzuki 30 easily brought her to a speed of 55 km / h without passengers. In the presence of one additional person, the speed was reduced to 50 km / h. It was possible to take the boat onto the speedboat with a total weight of 400 kg, then the engine sat down. I especially liked the presence of a manual start by means of a kickstarter and an electric start.The dual system has been really helpful several times. Manual start is easy with the first or second jerk. In cold weather, the process is also not delayed. I have been running the engine for 5 seasons and have not experienced any problems. However, there were some troubles. Once I got stranded and began to gas for a long time. As a result, the engine "ate" the sand, which caused the thermostat to break down. Due to severe overheating, the piston had to be changed. There were no other breakdowns during the work.
Vladimir rode a Suzuki 30 from a friend, after that he bought himself the same motor. I liked the model because it has enough power and streamlined shape, giving it an aggressive character. Manual start, electric start and remote control greatly facilitate control. The engine demonstrates stable operation at low and high revs and is excellent for trolling. Exhaust is carried out through the propeller hub, which provides good power and reduces noise. The motor is not very heavy and easy to transport. However, it is still very difficult to carry it alone. Japanese quality is felt in every element of the Suzuki 30, which is good news.
The engine is not cheap, but according to this criterion it looks preferable to products from Yamaha and Honda. The price tag for the Suzuki 30 model lies in the range of 135,000-145,000 rubles.
You can also buy a used unit in Russia. The cost of a 2-3-year-old motor will be 85,000-97,000 rubles.
The analogues of the Suzuki 30 outboard motor are the Nissan Marine NS 30 A4, Mercury ME 30 M, Yamaha 30 and Tohatsu M 30 engines.
Release date: 17.02.2016
Criticism of a car owner named Erasmus: Very spacious and warm, yesterday we went to Kirov -20 overboard and went in jackets, my wife was barefoot, all the windows were clean TASHKENT and nothing more. The car is going confidently, handling is good, the transmission works well. A radio cassette with bluetooth paired with a phone is generally superb. Satisfied with the location of all buttons and levers. The seats are comfortable, after a run of 250 km you don't need to stretch your back, as it was on the 213 Niva. Heated seats is pleasant. Good view in mirrors (someone doesn't like reviews, why I don't know)
Category: DIY repair
Characteristics of the car: The dimensions of the car are as follows, body length - 3742, width - 1100, height - 1464 mm. The wheelbase is 2486 mm. The ground clearance is 156 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 71 mm, the piston stroke is 75 mm. The engine crankshaft and accelerates to 6,000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 5000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at the request of Malch
Laughter in the subject: Once three blondes got to the island and caught a goldfish there. She gives them three wishes - one for each. The first one says: - Make me smart so that I can figure out how to get out of here. The fish made her a brown-haired woman - she jumped into the water and swam away. The second says: "Make me even smarter! The fish makes her a brunette - she makes a raft and swims away." The third one says: "Make me smarter than these two! The fish makes her a man - and she leaves the island across the bridge ..."
Repair of the outboard motor Suzuki (Suzuki):
Repair and maintenance of double-stroke outboard motors Suzuki:
Deciphering the structure of the Suzuki outboard motor model number DT - two-stroke engine DF - four-stroke engine E - electric start L - long deadwood (508mm) K - motor powered by kerosene R - remote control and electric start S - Standard deadwood (381 mm) T - Hydraulic motor tilt or hydraulic trim and tilt, electric start, remote control UL (X) - ultra long deadwood (635mm) XX - sternwood length 762 mm Z - reverse rotation of the screw (for paired installation, supplied without instruments and accessories) A - new generation models