In detail: do-it-yourself breeze 8m boat motor repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Fishbein E.I. Outboard motors "Veterok". Device, operation and repair: Handbook. L., publishing house "Shipbuilding", 1989. - 184 p .: ill.
The information about the device of the outboard boat motors "Veterok" is presented, recommendations for their operation and repair are given. The most typical motor malfunctions, methods of their detection and elimination are considered. The experience of many amateurs on self-disassembly, assembly and improvement of motor units is summarized, drawings and diagrams of special devices and devices used in disassembling and assembling motors are presented. There is reference information required for repairmen.
For amateurs-boat motorists, owners of motors of the Veterok family, it can also be used by workers of repair shops.
In our country, which has a huge number of reservoirs and waterways, widely used for the national economy, the development of water tourism, recreation and sports, such a universal vehicle as a motor boat with an outboard motor has become widespread. It is used for the transportation of people and goods, fishing, water management, timber floating, for carrying out hydraulic works and rescue operations on the water, for recreation of the population and sports.
Unlike stationary power plants, the outboard motor is more convenient to operate, does not take up space in the boat, is lightweight, easy to maintain and repair, and this has made it popular with the army of thousands of motor boat owners. One of the most frequently used domestic outboard motors are outboard motors of the Veterok family with a capacity of 5.9 and 8.8 kW (8 and 12 hp), manufactured by the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant of the AvtoUAZ Production Association. Motors "Veterok-8" have been produced since 1965, "Veterok-12" - since 1967. In 1969-1971. The plant mastered production and produced small batches of modifications of motors with an elongated deadwood (Veterok-8U, Veterok-12U) and in a cargo version (Veterok-8M, Veterok-12M). In 1978 the enterprise switched to the production of models with an electronic contactless ignition system (Veterok-8E, Veterok-12E).
Video (click to play).
Reliable operation of motors over a long period of time largely depends on skillful operation, qualified maintenance and timely repairs. The inadequacy of the existing network of workshops for the repair and maintenance of outboard motors, on the one hand, and the desire to have a hand in their motor, on the other, lead to the fact that most owners of Veterok motors carry out maintenance and preventive maintenance of motors on their own, usually without having , sufficient information on the design features, conditions for disassembly, assembly and adjustment of units, ways to improve reliability and performance.
The purpose of this book is to help Veterok owners to properly operate, repair and maintain motors.
The issues of the theory of operation of two-stroke engines, widely covered in special literature, are given minimal attention in the book; it only gives a general idea of the principles of operation of motor units.
The design of motors is constantly being improved, therefore, by the time the book is published, there may be some design changes in units and parts, carried out in order to increase reliability and durability, and improve performance.
Elimination of factory flaws in the new Veterok-8M motor
The author of the article Andrei Knyazev at the tiller "Veterka"
We begin to eliminate the shortcomings:
New hoses and clamps for the fuel system
Remove the carburetor and valve cover. As a present, collectors pour a pinch of aluminum sawdust into the fuel tank in each engine as a gift. Naturally, we don't need such gifts. Therefore, the carburetor and the fuel pump must be removed and this case must be emptied.
In K 33B (K 33V) carburetors, it is necessary to grind the float needle to the saddle, making several circular movements with your hand with little effort, and in K 49 (K491) carburetors, cut the slugs from the poorly molded float body. We wash the carburetor itself, clean it, blow it through. The brass pipes of the main fuel channel are hard to miss, and a couple of microscopic idle channels extending around the damper can be accidentally overlooked. Nobody turned the adjusting screws on the carburetors at the factory, so we make presets by tightening the screws all the way, and then unscrewing them one and a half to two turns. This is enough for a normal start, then the position of the screws can be adjusted according to the instructions. The carburetor is very simple and reliable.
We pass to the valve cover. On Veterka, the design of the valves and the cover itself is not very successful. All manuals say that it is absolutely impossible to bend the valve petals. This is understandable. When folding, the opening force will increase, which means that the start will be problematic. If the petals are not bent, then when the nut is tightened firmly, the petals will bend in the other direction, and a large gap is formed. Ideally, the petals should not be bent, fit tightly to the windows, should be easy to open when discharged, and close the windows tightly at the slightest pressure. The opening forces must be the same. There is a gap tolerance of no more than 0.5 mm. The valve cover with valves at the factory was assembled with a full bouquet of violations. All the valve petals were bent with pliers, there were large slits, the opening forces were different for everyone, and one valve made a trumpet sound like a hunting horn. The spare parts and accessories contain spare valve petals. As a result, in a couple of hours, it was possible to place four petals almost perfectly. The mouth was the best indicator. We blow in, blow out, the slightest difference is very easy to feel. Naturally, the valve cover must first be rinsed with alcohol. It's worth tinkering with the valve cover and the motor will thank you with a very easy start from one gentle jerk.
Another significant drawback arose due to a poorly made template. The tube that supplies water from the pump to the motor head came into contact with the shaft and was half erased. The consequences could be catastrophic.
A few more small moments discovered in time that could cause trouble on the water.
When drilling the shaft under the key, a sag or a small burr formed. It was almost impossible to remove the screw without a puller.
The flywheel puller body is made by casting or stamping, if you do not drive the thread with a tap, do not tighten the bolt.
If you use the standard screws for attaching the flywheel puller, then the threads in the flywheel itself may be damaged. The screws must be 5 mm longer.
The thread at the fuel line fittings is tapered. Depending on the start of the thread, it may happen that the fitting will look in the wrong direction when screwing in. The problem will be solved by a German reel for heating pipes, similar to electrical tape.
Disadvantages of a thyristor ignition system.
The thyristor ignition circuit on boat motors is more reminiscent of an amateur circuit, made according to the principle, it works, well, okay. It is quite difficult to remake it, but you can make it work without interruptions. The main disadvantage of a thyristor is a very large spread of parameters. A pair with approximately the same parameters can be matched with a box with 25 thyristors.It is very problematic to measure the characteristics of thyristors at home, and even more so in a store, although the measurement circuit is very simple, for this you need a laboratory autotransformer (LATR), a voltmeter, some wires and a couple of ordinary lighting bulbs. But you can roughly pick up a pair and an amateur method, by measuring only the resistance of the cathode-control electrode transition in two directions using a pointer tester (avometer). A digital avometer is not suitable for measurements due to its design features.
Another disadvantage of thyristors is a change in its parameters during heating and a change in parameters during operation caused by heating.
Previously, KU-202M thyristors were used in the electronic ignition system. Naturally, nobody selected thyristors and after a while problems arose, up to the complete loss of ignition in one cylinder when the motor was heating. A very good replacement for the KU-202M thyristor is the 2U-202M thyristor. The technical characteristics are completely the same, but the permissible temperature of the case is much higher. It is also desirable to select a pair, since the range of parameters is large. When replacing thyristors, the problems disappear for a long time, one might say forever.
Thyristor parameters measurement circuit
Usually a minus is marked with an asterisk in the tester, but in this case it will be a positive conclusion. The position of the switch of the device is KOhm x1. We touch the positive wire from the battery of the thyristor control electrode. If the three wires are not tangled, then the arrow of the device will deviate to the right. Slowly, so that there is no bounce, we remove the wire from the control electrode. If the arrow of the device falls to zero, then the thyristor can be safely soldered into the circuit, and if the signal is remembered, then the thyristor is quite normal, but specifically in the Veterk circuit it will not work as expected. To be sure, repeat the operation several times. I installed 2U 202M thyristors on the board instead of KU 221KM thyristors. It is problematic to place them in the case, but it is possible. You just need to take care of the insulation and make sure that they do not touch the metal case cover.
Top view of magdino circuit board
A little about the operation of the ignition system as a whole.
It is advisable to check the spark plugs on a special apparatus under pressure. Rejection depends on the batch and can be up to 50 percent. The devices are in car repair shops and in stores where they sell expensive imported car candles. Each candle has an O-ring, so it is not necessary to tighten the candle too much, otherwise the ring will flatten and an oily stain will appear on the motor around the candle in the future. To unscrew the candles, for the sake of curiosity, it is also not necessary, it is better to purchase a candle tester, worth 70 rubles, which allows you to check the candles without unscrewing them from the motor. The candle is in excellent condition if 6-8 discharges occur when the trigger is pressed.
The ignition coils are reliable, but they can fail when the flywheel is turned even by hand with the tips removed from the spark plugs. You can accidentally remove the tip and turn the flywheel, and there can be three possible events. The first - you were lucky and nothing terrible happened, the second - you were also lucky in the sense that the coil failed completely, which is easily determined by the absence of a spark and the third option is the worst. The coil works, but instead of, for example, five sparks, it forms only four. The fifth discharge occurs inside the coil itself. If a small turn-to-turn short circuit occurs in the coil, then the spark power drops significantly. You can find such a malfunction using any old, but working candle with a half-bent side petal. The candle is moved away from the candle hole, and the threaded part of the candle is connected with a wire to ground. I do not recommend testing the coil by bringing the high-voltage wire to the ground, as the hand may tremble and the spark gap may turn out to be very large, followed by the failure of a serviceable coil.
Some conclusions on the use of oils.
The breeze is not the right engine to pour expensive synthetics. Drinking autolom means not respecting yourself. Two types of mineral oils for outboard motors have been tested: Chevron for 130 rubles. liter, and Texica for 160 rubles. liter. Both oils have shown excellent results. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber practically do not form at all, the candles did not have to be cleaned even once during the season.
Clean piston after using special oils
There is one point. After two weeks of standing, I looked behind the valve cover. After the cheaper Chevron, everything looked freshly oiled, but after the more expensive Texica, there is no such effect. For the 2003 season, only Chevron was purchased.
Oils used by the author
Screw polishing - is it necessary?
Quite a lot has been written about screw polishing. If an increase in speed is not necessary, then hardly anyone will refuse to save fuel, because there is no gas station on the water. On Veterka, it is necessary to perform not only polishing, but also cutting down technological ones !? sagging at the base of the screw. The front edge of the screw must be rounded off, and the rear edge must be ground off a little. As a result, the screw spins up quickly and the motor picks up speed easily.
There are screws on sale, painted in silver with poor-quality casting, obviously not factory-made. All propellers have one blade much thicker than the others. When using such a screw, there will be certain death to the gearbox.
If you wish, you can cover the hood with rubber from a touring mat. One rug is enough for two wooden cans for the boat and for the hood. You will need four tubes of BF 88 (NT 88) glue. The noise reduction by the hood after pasting is very significant. A mechanical alarm clock with a terrible ringing, covered with a hood, is practically inaudible. I have not yet decided how to paste over the lower part of the motor.
Polished screw and casing, pasted over with soundproof coating
That's it, the motor is ready for installation on the boat and for the first start. Since only presets are made on the carburetor, we take an enema and inject a couple of milliliters of fuel deep into the carburetor. Open the air damper completely, the tiller handle to the “start” position plus 1.5-2 mm. It will start at the most on the second try, but where will it go “off the track”?
The listed disadvantages, unfortunately, with a probability of 70-80 percent will be met with you. But eliminating them is not difficult at all and it will take a maximum of a couple of days off.
Installing the motor on the boat.
Surely many are looking at the results of all kinds of tests of inflatable boats with a motor with interest and are surprised at the results. There is nothing surprising. There are good combinations of a specific boat and a specific motor. In most cases, the motor needs to be “adjusted” to the boat. I tried to remake the transom of the Lider-340 boat, as a result of which almost any motor from 2 to 15 l / s can now be attached to the boat. and achieve maximum travel speed.
Searching the Internet, you can find this picture:
Installing the motor on the boat transom
Now let's analyze how duralumin and inflatable boats will behave if there are deviations “from the norm”.
Suppose the motor is very slightly shifted to the transom. The dural boat will get to the speedboat faster, and the directional stability will increase. At the same time, we get a slight decrease in speed due to the larger area of wetting of the boat bottom. In principle, there are no problems.
Unfortunately, everything will look different on an inflatable boat. The boat will also try to quickly get on the speedboat, but at the moment the boat leaves the speedboat, the bottom will tend to gather in an accordion, and you won't go far and quickly on a washboard. The problem can be partially solved by pumping the boat's cylinders and keelson after cooling in water and excessive engine power. The wave-like movement of the bottom will be felt only at the moment of entering the glider, then it will disappear as the speed increases. Those who have a small power reserve of the motor will receive a constant transient mode and a bad mood.It should also be noted that the denser the bottom material, the less the accordion effect appears. Due to the design features on the Leader 340, the accordion effect appears only with a poorly inflated keelson.
The angle between the motor and the transom is slightly increased.
On a duralumin boat again, no problem. The time it takes to enter the speedboat will slightly increase, directional stability will slightly deteriorate, but the speed will increase due to the smaller wetting area.
It's not like that on an inflatable boat. If there is only water on the duralumin after the transom, then on the inflatable boat there are two cylinders that will tend to submerge in the water and again we will get decent "brakes".
From here we can conclude:
For owners of small inflatable boats and low-power motors, it is extremely important to set the tilt angle of the motor along a ruler.
We hang the back of the boat on tourist chairs, hang the motor, take measurements, and here, most likely, many inflatable boat owners will be disappointed. None of the standard position of the stop is suitable. I solved this problem by fitting a tube of a suitable diameter and thickness to the pin.
Homemade cars, tractors, ATVs and ATVs
Do-it-yourself bulkhead and repair of the Veterok-8 boat motor: a photo of the work done, as well as a video of the boat motor after repair.
Hello everyone! Here I went over my outboard motor "Veterok". This business is very interesting for me. Of course, it was possible to take a used Japanese or Chinese motor, I just got into the taste of repairing a "sovkomotor", which is still needed for a "mental" rest.
The following work has been done: complete disassembly of the Veterok motor for components, revision of the gearbox, replacement of the pump, replacement of the pump bearing and oil seal, pump mirrors, replacement of all gaskets where possible, complete repainting, replacement of all rubber (tubes) on the motorcycle head.
The first start-up showed good performance of the motor, the "hot" starts from "half turn", the cooling works perfectly.
In general, I am glad of the work done, then photos and videos with a motor.
Replaced the bearing, oil seal and pump cup gasket.
In the photo: the already assembled gearbox and pump.
Updated the swivel clamp.
Slewing gear, clamp and control plate.
As a result, an old Soviet-made outboard motor is back on track.
This video shows the operation of the Veterok-8 outboard motor after the bulkhead.
Video: operation of the outboard motor at low gas.
