Do-it-yourself vortex 25 boat motor repair

Topic: Advise on Vortex25 - Repair, revision, maintenance of floating crafts - Boats and boats - Transport (vehicles) - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Hunter

Friends.
Who needs to chat, knock on Skype!

kkk2005, Yes, the fact is that the vykhryusha does not start. I have always served him myself. I just tried to revive it in the summer, but it didn't work. What is the reason I can not understand, and there is not much time to mess around. I just wanted to give it to the service, but everyone disowns them.

Volkut, thanks for the contact. I'll call you tomorrow.

Well. what can you say.
zs I wonder what the price tag is bent.

A spark. electronic ignition or contact? Have you tried a 100% recipe (gasoline under a candle and full gas)?

zs Oh damn. how I didn’t mock these vortices. in due time. My last 30 went to junk with electronic ignition from a vase on the hall sensor

There would be another place to take the motor. And now I do not go to the dacha often. I understand that it's probably like a Zhiguli, you can change the dviglo under the window, as before, but I'm probably getting old.

pomeha78, quick start figachil in cylinders. I say I didn't even sneeze. There is a spark, but it seemed to me that it was weak, although on the air I should at least sneeze.

kkk2005, Alexander Genadievich, thanks for the reference, but I have read a lot on Vortex on this site. Yes, a lot of useful things, and it seems that he is not a fool himself, but that’s all he doesn’t start.

pomeha78, electronic ignition.

Over the years, a lot of things could have happened to the engine, since it did not start right away. The winter is long, if you want to figure it out, or to a friend for whom

Babies can be buggy and the spark of the wrong thing.

I can't even count how many times this little rattler put us in critical situations. Either in the middle of the night, 10 km from the shore, the spline cuts on the shaft, and not on the propeller, but in the engine, then the gasket of the block head will burn through, then the magneto will burn out.
But the good thing about Soviet products was that, as they said then, “with a hammer, a chisel and some kind of mother,” they could always be brought back to life. The same Whirlwinds and Winds, “died”, but even on one cylinder (with the candle turned out from the second), with a punctured head gasket, agonizing, they were able to hold out.

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Who needs to chat, knock on Skype!

Evgeniy35r 20 Jan 2011

Evgeniy35r 21 Jan 2011

and what is the spacer - does it change only the carburetor fastener to the motor?

Yes, with the old hardware, the new carb would be at an angle, i.e. the float chamber would not be parallel to the paddon plane.
I cannot give a full assessment of the carbu, because was running in, but his father, who was still a boatman, says that the motor runs smoother with him. I can tell you about the consumption only next season.

The hood with this carb does not close? And the boat is homemade? Does she look like a Rainbow, how does she run?

It does not interfere with closing the hood, the ignition coil from the Volga prevents it from closing, it is necessary either to cut the hood or to put it somewhere. Yes, you guessed it, the boat is really Rainbow, it is going well, we did not measure it on the ZHPS, but on one of the last trips I decided to give it full throttle. and then she was carried away like a high-speed projectile. there were a lot of sensations)))

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Yes, I forgot to say, I fastened the magneto tightly, I wanted to control the lead angle electronically, here the topic is: ornim-upravlen /, the circuit was assembled, but as always the rush began, I wanted to ride (at that time it was already August, when I first launched my creation), the circuit did not work (you can see that something was wrong soldered), so I connected the hall sensor directly to the ignition coil. This year, I still want to finish off the scheme, because on small ones, the motor begins to detonate strongly, the sausage is not childish.
I will continue about the improvements.Another weak point of the Whirlwinds is their carburetor, or rather its strange resemblance. Instead, I installed a K-68D through a spacer.

The suction control remained the same, only the cable had to be shortened. And I did the gas control on Bowden, the damper rises here, and does not turn. Well, in general, perhaps everything, if I remember or do something, I will unsubscribe. Well, some pictures.

Tell me, what is this mixture of Whirlwinds you have? The round pallet is from 20, but the block of cylinders seems to be from 25. Tell me, it's interesting

victorque 23 mar 2011

tell me show me about the installation of electronic ignition on a boat motor neptune 23

Near the Neptunovsky Forum. All ESP topics in plain sight. Just read it. Everything is there.
Anyone.

Check the integrity of the frame (mount + cores) of the ignition coils. But in general, the principle is the same everywhere: if there is a spark, then there is no gasoline and vice versa))) Good luck!

Ignition is conventional cam. Yesterday I replaced the plugs with wires again. Special boat candles - cheap Soviet candles. Before that, there were imported ones. It seems to work. But the warm one still starts up badly. Hot is ok. but it will stand a little - you have to pull it 15 times.
This weekend I still think I will frolic with him on the river.
And another question. Maybe there are some tips for modernization .. let's put some imported coils .. or a carburetor from something better ..

Have you tried to regulate the carburetor (in the sense of the problem on the hot one)? Fuel level in the float chamber, twist the screws?

Pablo, your description of the problem is too vague. Are the candles (after trying to turn on hot) wet? Is there a spark and what kind? If it is dry and there is a spark, then where is the gasoline (float chamber, b / pump, valve on the hose, if there is one). Well, or a book in hand and off you go. Or see the post above about a foreign car))) Good luck!

I had the same garbage on Neptune-23. As it turned out later, the mixture was over-enriched.

I have had this, I even had a failure of one cylinder for a hot one, i.e. while cold - everything is fine, warmed up - refused. There was always a problem in the ignition, more precisely in the gap between the cams, wire insulation, and so on. IMHO, it is better to replace it with a new one.

a quick start balloon helped not to bother

It seems to me, in this case, the usual thermal shock. After stopping the internal combustion engine, fuel evaporates in the hot carb, and fills the intake tract and cylinders from the float chamber with a closed throttle, causing an over-enrichment of the mixture. You will not believe it turns out that gasoline does not burn! Only gasoline vapors burn, and then in a certain concentration called stoichiometric (correct simplification) about 1 to 15 gasoline
... a-dvs.html
a rich mixture (as well as an extremely lean mixture) cannot be ignited by a spark. The usual method of dealing with this ailment is purging, opening the throttle fully and turning the starter, after about 10-15 strokes, flashes begin and the engine starts. Judging by your posts, you do not have a starter, and it is unlikely to portray a normal blowdown hand-to-hand. By the way, this moment of behavior is typical for all carburetor engines and automobile ones too (excluding the Japs, there is a system that fights this effect)

By the way, about import ..
If an imported motor does not save the sawdust in my head, a spring incident in my life: the first trip to the river, my comrades and I go on motors. We have a cauldron under the 25th served vortex, tovarischa has a new nissamaran with last year's pit. After entering the glide, his yamaha was constantly deaf, after the fifth embarrassment, his launch was taken in tow and dragged away in shame on a whirlwind on a fishing trip, after long digging and proceedings it was found that the seasoned fisherman grossly violated the operating instructions, poured gasoline diluted with oil last year, apparently regretted the good. And although it was stored in an airtight container, it lost its properties. There is only one withdrawal conclusion - I bought an import, listen to the instructions, but our people don't care about it, the installer opens only when the result does not come to the mind of Lazarus, and even then only when, due to a great need, it was necessary ..

In chapter 6.Specification of some parts - there is information on the materials of the parts.

Dear "NikVE" writes] Open source, judging by the description, the author is just a professor in the field of motor repair! Very interesting!

For those who are not yet in the clouds with theory.

If you remove theory, with which you presented this weighing method, in practice, everything is not so, as you imagine.
Everything is very simple, without additional analysis of errors. We take the piston, I repeat, and hang it on the right shoulder with a finger and retaining rings, align the shoulders (adding or pouring water from the bottle). We mark the level. Then we remove it, and we hang the second set + finger and retaining rings on the same place. Seeing the difference. Then we adjust the heaviest piston, to the level of the lung, exactly on the right shoulder. The water bottle hangs in its place.
And no matter what the difference is in the shoulder, it is important what kind of slip in the center of the suspension.
I understand your irony very well. I advise you to conduct an experiment

, school program
I hope there are a lot of people here who can check it out. I would be glad if anyone has a reasonable criticism.
Adjusting the same weight, but not aiming to find out how much.
No wonder I indicated in detail about the weight from 50 kopecks, and even skeptics after the experience, everything will become clear.

First time on sale 18 HP boat motor «Vortex»Appeared in 1965. All subsequent years, in parallel with the serial production of the first model, work was carried out to improve the design of the engine, increase its power and efficiency. A total of eight models were developed and produced: the "Whirlwind" motor was replaced in turn by "Whirlwind-M", "Whirlwind-30R", "Whirlwind-30", "Whirlwind-25P electron", "Whirlwind-25 electron", "Whirlwind-30R" electron "and" Whirlwind-30 electron ". Their power increased from 18-22 hp. (13.3-16.2 kW) up to 25 hp (18.2 kW), and then up to 30 hp. (22 kW). The separate cast iron cylinders were replaced by an aluminum cylinder block; motors with an electric start and a manual starter were replaced by motors equipped with an electronic ignition system (ESZ), in connection with which the "additive" - ​​electron appeared in the name.

Today, about 1 mln. boat motors "Whirlwind" of different generations. Many motor owners have difficulty with renovation engines, replacement of parts and assemblies. It is still difficult to purchase spare parts far from industrial centers, in many regions there are no repair shops, and a service department has not yet been developed. It is far from always possible to find a knowledgeable specialist nearby. But sometimes the motor becomes inoperative only because of its inept operation or untimely and poor-quality repair.

The accumulated experience allows us to make some of the most general advice to the owners of "Whirlwinds":

• when operating the PM, it is imperative to follow all recommendations for engine maintenance;
• it is advisable to sort out all new engines from the store;
• it is imperative to purchase and use oil intended for two-stroke water-cooled engines (logo according to international standards TC-W-3 - ashless mineral oil, economically degradable in water; diluted in gasoline at a ratio of 1:40).

Message # 1 Georg Ohm »04 Jan 2017, 22:53

I got the "Whirlwind-25" motor with the boat. Slightly dismantled: there is no flywheel, magneto is rather in the trash, there is no ignition reel. Was not mothballed and lay in a box at the boat station for 2.5 years. But he is inscribed on the ship's ticket. Deadwood is still virgin because there is no hatch and the standard reverse link is not collapsible. In this state, the motor is one hundred percent anchor, as they usually joke about "Whirlwind" motors. There were some difficulties in unscrewing the engine itself from the pallet. Only 2 countersunk screws are tightly acidified in the threaded bushings of the crankcase. Soaking the WD-40 for 3 days and tapping with a screwdriver in the slots gave an effect, and with a powerful knob, I finally pulled these recalcitrant screws. Then brushing off dust and sand from the crankcase and block with a brush, unscrewing the carburetor and the fuel pump, then washing off the dirt adhering to the oil with a rag soaked in gasoline.In the photo, I indicated where the stubborn ugly cogs are. When reassembling, be sure to drive the threads and twist them on the graphite. I will disassemble the engine further, tk. shitty spinning, albeit evenly. Crankshaft rings or bearings are suspected. The second would not be desirable, of course.

Sent after 1 hour 39 minutes 29 seconds:
I disassembled the motor and was a little sad. It turned out that the upper cylinder is so well upturned from the exhaust side. At the same time, there is a hone on the side, and in the lower cylinder there is a hone everywhere around the circumference. The piston is seized, but the rings are intact and there are no chips on them. That is, the engine has not been rolled very much. The knee with spools is also free of wear. The most surprise awaited when the block began to be viewed with passion: the raised cylinder has an evenly placed sleeve, but in the working sleeve it is planted 1-1.5 mm lower and slightly folded, which is a vertical step relative to the channels by 1 mm and about a step to the side by 1 mm ... I think: give this one to the bore or look for another block?

Message # 2 Georg Ohm »06 Jan 2017, 23:27

Message # 3 User_612 »07 Jan 2017, 00:20

Message # 4 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 01:52

Message # 5 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 18:41

Message # 6 User_612 »07 Jan 2017, 18:47

Message # 7 Georg Ohm »07 Jan 2017, 22:20

Message # 8 mix66 »08 Jan 2017, 08:53

Message # 9 User_612 »08 Jan 2017, 16:15

Message # 10 Georg Ohm »08 Jan 2017, 16:30

If it is necessary to disassemble the motor or its components, it is recommended to disassemble in the following sequence.
When disassembling, remember (it is better to write down) the position of the motor parts before disassembling, especially for small parts, since in some transitions their position is not reflected.
Disassembly should be performed only to the extent required by the purpose of disassembly.

8.10. Disassembly into units
1. Remove the fairing.
2. Disconnect and remove the carburetor throttle actuator rod.
3. Remove the carburetor throttle valve drive shaft.
4. Unscrew the gank and remove the bolt of the reverse link rod, unscrew the rod bushing, remove the pin.
5. Unscrew the screws securing the engine to the deadwood, remove the engine from the deadwood.
6. Remove the gasket from the deadwood. Remove torsion shaft.
7. Unscrew the screws securing the reducer housing to the stern tube, remove the reducer, remove the rubber grommet from the water pump casing, remove the water supply pipe from the stern tube.
8. Unscrew the bolts securing the suspension to the sternwood, remove the retaining plate and rubber gasket, remove the suspension.
Note. Further disassembly of the assemblies should be carried out in accordance with the relevant operations.

8.12. Disassembly of the deadwood
Remove the bracket axle, remove the suspension bracket, latch and gaskets.

8.13. Dismantling the recoil starter
1. Unlock and unscrew the nut, remove the bolt with a bracket.
2. Remove the bracket, spring washer from the bolt. Remove two pawls from the nests of the block.
3. Unfold the starter block by the cord so that the spring is loose.
4. Remove the spring engaging block by turning it clockwise. Remove the block.
ATTENTION! When removing the block from the housing, beware of the coil spring.

8.14. Disassembly of the gearbox
1. Unscrew the screws securing the water pump, remove the pump housing, impeller, pin and plate.
2. Unscrew the upper and lower plugs in the housing and gearbox cover and drain the oil.
3. Unscrew the gearbox cover fixing screws and the rod fixing screw (6, Fig. 4), remove the gearbox cover and the screw shaft with gears and bearings.
4. Remove the bearing cup, shims, gears, shift clutch, bearings from the shaft.
Note. When assembling, place the set of shims in its appropriate place (in thickness).
5. Remove the pinion shaft from the gearbox housing.
6. Rinse all parts in gasoline.

8.15. Disassembly and assembly of the Magdino base with mechanical breakers
Disassembly is carried out in exceptional cases;
a) complete wear of the interrupter textolite pads;
6) complete wear of contacts on the rack or breaker lever:
c) failure of the capacitor.
Disassembly sequence:
1) unscrew the screw nut of the breaker contact post;
2) remove the locking and adjusting washers from the axis;
3) remove the spring breaker lever without touching the connecting screw. The spring has an open groove at the point of attachment with a screw;
4) make the necessary replacement of parts;
5) grease the lever axis with CIATIM-201 GOST 6267-74 grease:
6) the assembly of the interrupting mechanism is carried out in the reverse order;
7) contact mismatch should be within 0.2 mm;
8) the leads of the coils and capacitors must be laid in accordance with the factory release in order to eliminate the possibility of rubbing against the cam or flywheel magnets.

8.16. Assembling the motor
Assemble the motor in the reverse (compared to disassembly) sequence. Before assembling the Cahors or assemblies, rinse all removed parts in clean gasoline and dry. When assembling, lubricate all surfaces of the parts with machine oil.
When setting the flywheel, lubricate the mating surfaces of the cones with MC-20 oil.
When assembling the engine, clean the joint planes of the mating surfaces of the parts from dried sealant and lubricate the planes with fresh bakelite varnish.
Tighten the nuts or bolts gradually, that is, the grinder is tightened to an incomplete effort, then the final tightening is performed.

With a large number of nuts or bolts in flange connections, tightening must be done diagonally, starting from those located in the middle, which will exclude skewing and warping of parts.
When assembling the starter, generously lubricate the spring with technical vaseline.
Be sure to place the previously supplied washers under the starter supports and check that the starter bracket does not reach the ratchet disc. The gap between the starter block and the flywheel is maintained at 7.5 ± 0.5 mm.
Before installing the flywheel on the motor shaft, lay a clean 1.5 mm thick gasket between the contacts of the chopper mechanism in order to prevent breakage of the lever pads.
After installing the flywheel on the motor shaft, remove the gaskets and set the gap between the contacts according to the section "Recommendations for the operation of the motor"

8.17. Instructions for replacing parts.
The internal diameter of the motor cylinders is divided into three groups, respectively, three groups of pistons are made.

For motors with a power of 25 hp.

Greetings to all. I don't have a photo of candles, I can describe them. On new candles, I burned the fuel tank without turning off the engine, after refueling it was not possible to start the engine. Having unscrewed the candles, I was surprised that there was no carbon deposits, the inner ezolator was pure white, as if only from the package, but there was no spark. I took out the capacitors from under the flywheel. Gasoline 80 oil 1 liter per 30 liters of gasoline as suggested by a friend who also has a Vortex30.

Added after 23 minutes
There is a great desire to understand the reason, but there is no clue who understands this. I myself really like to deal with technology.

Vovchik will spark on both, you unscrew the candles after trying to start them, they are dry. I bought a lawn A 14 I will try these.

Added after 12 minutes
Excuse me, I can't understand about the wires?

Good morning everybody. The candle, if at all, is white-insulator, then-I-don't understand how the engine worked at all. In addition to adjusting the float chamber, - there is a mixture enrichment screw, - it is located near the crankcase on the carburetor, at the bottom of the suction cable, - a screw with a cone and a SPRING - you screw it all the way and then backwards - 1-5.1-25, turns. This is provided that the capacity in other respects is normal. I personally check the spark on myself, on my finger, but you feel weak or normal, of course I twist the flywheel with my hands, and not with the starter, the candles are turned inside out. and konkrektno then everything should be HOCKEY. GOOD LUCK TO YOU.

Some recommendations of A.M. Lutitsky.

For many years and hikes, I always returned to the parking lot myself, under my Whirlwind. In the most unforeseen situations, I was mentally prepared for any unpleasant incident, and then technically. In field conditions, with appropriate preparation, it is possible to make almost any repair.It was necessary to repair both gearboxes and cylinder-piston groups, spools, restore cracked pallets from impact, and much more. Much has been learned from C&L, having tested a lot, left it unchanged, invented and designed a lot myself.

Why did I start with psychological preparation? Because on a hike you need to be ready for anything. My rule is to have everything you need with you. 11-13 kilograms of spare parts and tools will provide your peace and confidence and will never be superfluous, providing a 100% opportunity to return home without any help.

So, having everything you need on board will make you feel more confident. And with proper preparation of the engine, any breakdown will be easily and quickly eliminated. What is needed for this - see below.

Having done these operations, you will greatly extend the life of the gaskets, you will be able to have easy access to the most loaded parts of the engine - pistons, rings, fingers. You can easily replace them without removing the engine from the transom in any field conditions.

The same actions (as described above for Vortex-25) can be done with Vortex-20 and -30, taking into account the design differences of these engines. All these changes make it possible to clean the carbon deposits in 30 minutes, to change the piston rings in 40-50 minutes, and to change the piston group in 1.5 hours in any conditions.

Anatoly Mikhailovich LUTITSKY, Kiev, 08.05.99.

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Rebel »10 Oct 2011, 11:55

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Vovchik
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Sven
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2 Vovchik, I have a square needle on B25, bought a needle from K60 with a rubber ring, fitted it with a file, the problem was solved radically and completely. If after the winter the needle is stuck or che - I change the ring (I bought needles from K60 for 2 UAH each), the joy is that they are brass, i.e. unlike the native iron square, they do not break the guide.

About the new SI12RT - yes, out of 10 bought this year I tried 9, threw out 3, but somehow right away, I didn't even burn the tank. the rest walk flawlessly. there is still an element of the lottery. did not mention it because used to this phenomenon. Well, the briski showed the worst result.

The experiments were carried out on Moscow 30 (all 3 died on it), those that survived - running 5 tanks, on H23 and B12 - all are alive after running 2 tanks.

Sven
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2 Vovchik, if you have a square metal needle with a conical working surface, then a needle from K60 IMHO is the best of radical solutions. takes 40 minutes of shame with a file.

K60 was put on mopads and salutes, I took needles on Degtyarevskaya in a mopad store. I also saw them on Vasilkovskaya and Olympian.

IMHO, our conversation about tuning the needle is off, although generally useful. 2 May Pasha be rescheduled?

leon
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Sven
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2 Leon times such a booze, about the revision of the carb, please write down in more detail, if not laziness.

With Vovchik, ignition on a Volgovskaya coil and without a battery gives a spark of a pea (I'm not bragging, just to outline the situation). here. As for the carb, I was lazy enough only to eliminate the overflow on a full slipper (needle). although it always starts cold with 3 jerks according to the manual, but the xx stable ones start from 1200, if less - first fills in one cylinder, if not gassed then after a couple of minutes and the second. well, and sausage at 1200 -1300 certainly not dezzki. One joy is that if it floods, then at full throttle it starts from the second jerk. but then again the ignition.

Vovchik
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leon
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The improvements are simple, but they helped me a lot. Firstly, I cut in a window with a line for clarity what level. Doing a cut of 5 mm and 2 cm long. Glued plexiglass on two-component glue and drew a level line. Level 21 mm from the top of the carb (with the cover removed). Then you adjust the level. Secondly, a hole with a diameter of 3.5 is drilled in the valve opposite the hole, but I think 3.2 is better. From the edge of the damper there should be mm 2. The hole, if you look at the carb, turns out at 3 o'clock. This hole gives the fact that when the gear is engaged, it is unnecessary to immediately give gas and the engine at idle works more steadily. I also sharpened a catcher instead of a round cover at the inlet of the carb. But a competent turner is needed. The bottom line is that at low speeds it does not throw out benz from carb.
There was also an electrical engagement of the gear, which made it possible to abandon the cables and levers. When I bought Yamaha, it was a pity to sell the Whirlwind, but I won't wake up salt either.

Added after 3 minutes 30 seconds:

After these improvements, the candles were never flooded and on some candles it took 2 years, but I always drove spare 2 sets with me

Sven
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In such a way, the damper is completely closed by xx, the actual minimum speed xx is regulated by the diameter of the hole. ? and its position at 3 o'clock excludes fuel suction from the main jet jet?

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gena
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Vovchik
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oleh
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Added after 10 minutes 47 seconds:

Volodya, I forgot to describe the window technology. Two options: the first in the center of the line at the level of 20 mm, you drill a hole with a diameter of 8.5 mm for the M10 thread, step 1, you grind a pin with such a thread from a plexiglass bar, screw it into the hole in the carburetor, so that it did not interfere with the float, measure, then twist and glue 88, moment or epoxy sit. transparent by itself My father is now done this way and is normal.

_________________
Living well, living well is even better

moved from Fishing

Guys tell me
I have a Whirlwind 30

I'm in motors 0. This is my first motor ..

can you advise me

What Oil to mix with gasoline and what to pour into the "Leg"

In gasoline, any 2T oil in a ratio of 1:50 (domestic 1:40)
The sae 80W90 gearbox has a transmission.

And we move to the Boats / Motors section

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

sae 80W90 transmission.

And how many liters do you need?

moved from Fishing

less than a liter. I think 500-600 grams

quote: In gasoline, any 2T oil in a ratio of 1:50.
But this does not need to be done for the Vortex (if it is your own), we recall the year of its development and the design features.
Hypoids - 130-150 cubes in the gearbox and CIATIM in 202 (under the pump) do not forget the press with an oil can.

quote: Originally posted by vasj:

But this does not need to be done for the Vortex (if it is your own), we recall the year of its development and the design features.

Why?
quote: Originally posted by vasj:

Hypoids - 130-150 cubes

I did not think that it was so little. In a spot, 300 climbs.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

In a spot, 300 climbs.

Oh, I lied. 2 tubes, 290g each. three times is enough.

More than 300 will fit into the Vortex reducer, but whether it is necessary (according to the passport, 150 cubic meters. Cm.) Excess oil in the reducer is an unjustified loss of power.
In domestic ones (Whirlwind, Neptune, etc.), a system of forced supply of lubricant to the upper main bearing KV.A is not provided, and in Vortex one stands above the oil seal and is lubricated in a very specific way.
If the engine will be used intensively and at maximum loads, I would recommend at least 500-600 grams per 20 liters (meaning modern 2T oils).

quote: Originally posted by vasj:

In domestic ones (Whirlwind, Neptune, etc.), a system of forced supply of lubricant to the upper main bearing KV is not provided.

how does this affect the proportion of oil? High-quality 2T oil 1:50 (400g for 20 liters) is better than 600g. autola on the canister. Proven over the years on several eddies in fish farms.

Experimenting with the "canister label" proportion of oil does not yield good results. Checked, however, not by me. Yes, oils are good nowadays, this is not a good old autol (it should have been a liter per canister). But 2T should also be sufficient (direct relationship with the proportion) in the friction zone. I repeat, if you have your own engine, it is better to 600 grams and not be greedy.
Moreover, 500-600 can even vary from season to season.
Collective farms, yes, scows are loaded all the way, but they also do not run at maximum speed (whoever is interested in them at all - they will have to sort out the engine in winter)

quote: Originally posted by vasj:

"As on the label of a canister",

Canister labels never write proportions quote: Originally posted by vasj:

But it should also be enough in the friction zone.

There must be enough mixture in the friction zone, which has a sufficient lubricating effect. Modern oils in a ratio of 1:50 have this effect with a margin. Therefore, some foreign cars work normally even at 1: 100. But 1: 100 in my opinion is too much.

As for transmissions, what can be said about this oil:
?

It is not clear why paddling pools do not specify the class by API.
Judging by the parameters, it does not form an emulsion. Don't cheat?

quote: ... some foreign cars
There was no talk about foreign cars. On some, the oil is metered depending on the speed of the HF.

quote: Originally posted by vasj:

On some, the oil is metered depending on the speed of the HF.

We are talking about a ready-made mixture. quote: Originally posted by mdw75:

why the frogs don't specify the class by API.

what's the point? there are no synchronizers, no bushings.

In this case, is there any point in pouring such specialized oils?

However, some imperialist boat engine manufacturers require GL-4 / -5.

GL-5 was added in the new edition of the manual.
Why's that?

quote: Originally posted by mdw75:

In this case, is there any point in pouring such specialized oils?

Why specialized. This is just one of the "gear" tolerances (my brother fumbles about it well).

And in the manuals for motors, the requirement is only for viscosity (SAE), the index of which is indicated.

In this case, this indicator is very useful:

De-emulsion properties ASTM D 2711 47.6 ml
Emulsion: absent

quote: Originally posted by mdw75:

GL-5 was added in the new edition of the manual.
Why's that?

Yes, out of nowhere. Honda just, as always, was pretty good))) At least I don’t think they changed anything in the checkpoint.

Earlier, in the seventies, we poured nigrol into our boots and everything was normal.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

GL-1)))))))))))

The oil was normal for those times.
And they added autol to gasoline, they did not know then any two and four-stroke oils. And everything worked great. The gasoline was A-72.

quote: Originally posted by alpar:

... And everything worked great.

Come on. )))) Is the annual engine bulkhead a great job?))) In the “sporting goods” stores in the engine spare parts department, the saleswoman was like a goddess)))))))

quote: ... they added autol gasoline, they did not know then any two or four-stroke oils.
That's for sure. Previously there was autol, nigrol, etc. gasoline (it later appeared the 72nd).

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

Come on. )))) Is the annual engine bulkhead a great job?))) In the “sporting goods” stores in the engine spare parts department, the saleswoman was like a goddess)))))))

They didn't touch anything. The repair was only due to mechanical damage, when boots had to be changed due to a crack, or because of a failure of the cooling system.

quote: Originally posted by alpar:

The repair was only due to mechanical damage

Yeah. Perpetual motion machine. Well, just don't tell fairy tales)))

Well, don't be so over-the-top. There was a time, a little later, when the seller in sports goods acc. department was like the seller of the shoe department of a department store (according to Raikin - "respected person").
And now, few people look into engines (domestic). Personally, in my youth, for the winter I disassembled, polished, hung out, etc. Now “I’ve become old, lazy” (C), and everything is already polished

.

We have a boat station with garages under the house. Through one garage in the spring or in the fall, there MOT with a complete disassembly took place. On the knee.

quote: ... Well, just don't tell fairy tales
These are not fairy tales at all - they use them until they crumble at all. Literally on Sunday, for a long time I watched the “vodnomotornik” on the Dnepr boat with B30, which rode the girls on “one cylinder”. No attempts to open the hood were observed. Two weeks ago I watched H23 to an acquaintance. It starts badly, there are no "small" ones, does not pull, changed the candles, capacitors - his words. For a long time I could not believe that TLM should have a certain resistance, and not just “ring”. And the XX jet had to be pierced with copper wire. For the "consumable" tank with "frogs" - I will not say anything.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

Yeah. Perpetual motion machine. Well, just don't tell fairy tales)))

No fairy tales. In the season, they definitely did not touch it, after that I don’t know. My younger brother and I spent all the holidays with my grandmother in the village. We went fishing all summer. The boat belonged to the father's brother. First there were self-made punt, later Neman-2. Uncle loved to change motors. So I had a chance to travel on almost all Veterka, Vortex, Moscow, Neptune. I myself have been driving a motor myself since I was 14 on a big river. Now I don't understand, and how my grandmother let us go alone. I would never let my sons go.

Not. in the season, small works. By the way, here is an extract from the instructions.

Pay attention to the timing of the replacement of nigrol.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:
Pay attention to the timing of the replacement of nigrol.

Well, of course, we didn't do anything like that, but went almost every day.

quote: Well, of course, we didn't do anything like that, but went almost every day.
That's the beauty of domestic motors - they are made by our people for us. Moreover, it has already been said, they pour in whatever comes to hand.
And the replacement of the screw in case of deformation. blades - "burp" of socialism, when the propeller cost 3.50. Now, neatly, with a hammer.

quote: Originally posted by alpar:

Well, we naturally did not do anything like that.

There is so much guana on a 1:20 mixture of autol on the valves. power dropped sharply.

quote: There is so much guana on a 1:20 mixture of autol on the valves. power dropped sharply.
Just an excess of oil on the slide washers and good. Another thing is where the “guano” comes from, only if the ignition is not correctly set and when the rings are stuck.

quote: Originally posted by vasj:

and at occurrence of rings.

And as a result of what it comes? A mixture, my friend, a mixture. Nagar.

quote: And as a result of what it comes? A mixture, my friend, a mixture. Nagar.
Here, dear, as a result of the above things (early ignition or reverse gas burst into the crankcase when the rings are stuck), carbon deposits are deposited (not so clearly, of course, but blackening takes place, and warping occurs) on the slide washers.
List the reasons for the occurrence of the rings.
You are welcome:
1.Overheating of the engine
2.Excess oil
3.Lack of oil
4. Fuel mixture (gasoline, oil) of poor quality.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:

Yeah. Perpetual motion machine. Well, just don't tell fairy tales)))

Do you want me to tell you a story.

Whirlwinds, I will not praise much, but I will find fault too — at one time trouble and revenue, 15 barrels of fuel per season, and it was possible to bring — so that the first time grabbed — — who jumped on the rapids in those years knew how the shutdown could end or breakdown on the second third step.
Well, this is all in the past, and so for 15 years or so, Evinrud-35 fell into my hands — a handsome man, rushing like a tank, and most importantly quickly.
But then autumn came — and. motor oil turned out to be in the African version, the oil from the tank was sucked in due to ejection, and you understand that cold oil is sucked in shitty (and the manufacturer considered the oil pump for some reason a superfluous detail), such are the things, he did not survive the whirlwind.
P / S. it then and then came that it was necessary to turn off all these snot, to dilute the gasoline in the tank and drive.

quote: Originally posted by Quick:
Now with pumps))))))))))))

Yes Ruslan, now I am changing the merc-40 to pit 55, 9 years old with faith and truth.I changed the connecting rod rings and bearings 1 time, from breakdowns - the exhaust pipe in the deadwood was completely burnt out, but it began to start even better in cold weather (the yamas were resting), there was no ice plug

- a good motor was