Repair of a yamaha boat motor 2 l with your own hands

Hello! Guys who have been poking around with pit 2? As for the rich mixture.

tell me what you did yourself. I think they will correct it if I didn’t even do it

In detail The motor starts from the first maximum from the second time, everything works smoothly, I do not use the air damper at all in any weather. He has enough. On a cold one, if you immediately give full throttle, it picks up speed normally (growls) after five minutes you can hear that the speed is dropping, by ear 3500 rpm. min. Begins to scribble. At full throttle, I slowly begin to close the fuel cock. As he began to growl, the revs rose and the food. It was advised to replace the valve and the valve needle. Replaced, There are new ones. The shut-off needle held and the old gasoline with an open tap did not flow. The damper needle is no different from the old one. I even made an extra groove to lower it down. Works best in cold water when not heated. I think the wear of the channel where the damper needle goes. since it is not even necessary to use the air damper or change the main jet to a smaller diameter, but there is no data on the dimensions. and no fuel adjustments other than the needle on the damper. Even the fuel level cannot be reduced. Or put the needle thicker. Dear candle, gasoline 1/100 Prompt.

it is necessary to remove the plug under it the bolt for adjusting the quality of the mixture. Who can throw a picture of the carb or put your photo

Tomorrow I'll try to take a picture. But as far as I remember, there are no plugs. She just has nowhere to be. nozzle in one channel on one side. on the other, a needle with a shutter. Gasoline from the float chamber, through the nozzle, the needle goes into the diffuser. On a moped, the carburetor is more difficult.

I found a link to my carburetor. where we ordered spare parts. Link .. maybe you can see this bolt here. well, a photo tomorrow

> Here I found a link to my carburetor. where we ordered spare parts.
> Link ..
> you can see this bolt here. well, a photo tomorrow

Doesn't it react to the mixture quality screw (24) ??
and it seems to me that 1/100 is not enough. grabs a motor 🙁
1 / 50-70, just right for him,
if the piston is still alive, with such a mix 🙁

Bolt 24 supports the damper, regulates the amount of mixture at idle, but there is no bolt mixture quality, one needle is on the damper. 1/100 is written on a can of castrol oil. But you usually pour about by eye and it will be 1/70. I tried to pour 1/50 of the calm gasoline from the saw, only during trolling at low speeds, the oil is thrown out through the cooling control hole in the boot. And the compression should be in order. It starts up quietly and hot and cold. Only on the candle is there a strange soot, the side electrode is in black soot, and the central and insulator seem to be washed, wet ..

> soot is strange, the side electrode is in black soot, and the central and insulator is like
> as if washed, wet ..

and this is more like a dying candle. And if you replace it? 😉

the candle is new, the old one was the same result. And black carbon is a rich mixture.

I didn't take off the carb, there was no time, I unscrewed the hood and took a picture as promised, show where the plug is under which the bolt is adjusting.

is there really no quality bolt?

I’m not joking. Apparently in Japan the hole and the needle are calibrated and no adjustment is needed. Along the way, I have a tube in which the needle walks worn out and even lowering the needle does not help, perhaps an ellipse in spare parts, it is already 900 rubles. but how it is pressed into the body is not clear, like brass or bronze. I'm afraid to pick. To make it worse, it might be better to try a thicker needle. Do not know.I thought maybe someone had such a problem.

Give the engine to a mechanic to flush the carburetor and change the spark plug. Belgaga66 wrote:

> Hello! Guys who have been poking around with pit 2? As for the rich mixture.

There was such a problem on such a motor, cured by lowering the needle. If it doesn’t help
inspect the float valve

Try to reduce the fuel level, maybe you can put a cambric on the float tongue?

The needle has already been lowered (made an additional groove, to the limit), the shut-off valve has been installed, a new one, the cambric cannot be pulled, the gap is small between the float and the valve. a strip of foil from a beer can will only creep in. But the float stops moving. I will try to decrease the level. upsetting the axis of the float. if anything can be returned to the place. and so thought to make the needle against the jet, like a breeze. True, the bottom cover must be sealed.

Is there really a main jet at 104? You can also solder copper wires into it to reduce the cross section, as Bubble did.

Yes! There are 104 markings on the jet. but at the expense of procrastination idea, True, the setup process is long. Solder, assemble, try, then disassemble again, etc. but still an idea With a bolt on the bottom of the jet through the cover it would be more convenient, you can tighten it on the fly, but here you have to turn. with a wire easier .. THANKS.

Why do you need to solder. Insert, bend the ends gently. Didn't hit - insert a wire of a different diameter or another one of the same diameter.

I think things 3-4, 0.1 mm to solder on one side and try if the poor mixture is ripped out one at a time, so as not to solder on water. and if you just bend it, there the needle enters the nozzle from the inside at low gas, it can grind or interfere.

GDV Thanks a lot for the hint .. the tests were successful .. 0.2 wire just right in place. The motor even "asked" to warm up for 1 minute. and screamed like never before. Thanks again for your help.

Look at the color of the candle, maybe you made a poor mixture.))

Isn't it easier to rearrange the needle down one groove?

At the beginning of the topic, we already wrote that we made an additional groove to lower the needle even lower. It did not help.

Fishing using boats and boats provides more opportunities for the angler. It is not tied to one place on the shore of the reservoir. The shore can be inconvenient and not suitable for comfortable fishing. The boat allows the angler to move around the reservoir, look for promising points where fish can stand. Moving on the water by rowing with oars requires great physical effort.

The use of an outboard motor will increase the comfort and speed of movement. Boat motors are offered by manufacturers in a wide range, depending on the dimension, power, type of propulsion device. The line of motors starts with small motors ranging from 2 - 3 HP. They can be installed on single-seat inflatable boats. A large world manufacturer of reliable outboard motors is the Japanese company Yamaha.

The Yamaha 2 outboard motor belongs to the smallest outboard motors with an internal combustion engine of the Standard series (power range from 2 to 30 hp).

Two-stroke engine power of 2 HP provides one cylinder with a volume of 50 cc. see, with a compression ratio of 8.3. The engine can develop propeller rotation up to 4000-5000 rpm. The engine is started through a recoil starter by means of the CDI electronic ignition system, from the discharge of the capacitor. The engine is equipped with a built-in 1.2 liter fuel tank. An engine with a carburetor fuel supply system, in conjunction with a cylinder volume and maximum rpm, can consume up to 1.3 liters per hour, which gives a reserve of work on one tank for at least 50 minutes. The engine runs on a fuel mixture with oil in a ratio of 50 to 1. The engine is controlled by a tiller. The leg height is 417 mm. Therefore, it is necessary to select and adjust the height of the transom.Dry weight without fuel is 9 kg, which allows one person to carry it effortlessly.

All Yamaha motors are highly reliable regardless of engine type and size. The advantages of the youngest model:

• compactness and low weight make it easy to carry it by hand and transport it in the trunk of a car;
• the circular movement of the tiller makes it easy to control the boat, increasing its maneuverability;
• loop blowing of the engine cylinder reduces the amount of emissions into the atmosphere, which ensures high environmental standards during the operation of the outboard two-stroke engine, increasing its performance;
• CDI electronic capacitor ignition allows easy starting of the engine;
• has protection of the surface and nodes from sea salt;
• relatively low cost makes it affordable to sail on a boat or yacht under a motor;
• the ability to use as an auxiliary second motor.

The disadvantages of the motor are as follows:

1. Power 2 HP do not allow them to be used on medium-sized boats or on rivers with strong currents, the motor power is simply not enough to overcome the speed of the current.
2. Movement is possible only in displacement mode, you should not wait for planing.
3. No idling, the propeller starts to rotate immediately when the engine is started.
4. There is a limitation on the speed and distance of the boat crossing of several kilometers.

After purchasing a new motor, it must be run in in the modes specified in the operating instructions.

The company recommends using the oil under its Yamalube brand... The tank is filled with a ready-made mixture. It is forbidden to fill the entire fuel tank with a mixture; when heated, gasoline expands, which can lead to overpressure in the tank, leaks and fire. The engine is started with the motor foot lowered into the water, otherwise the water cooling system of the engine will not work and it will fail from overheating. It is necessary to take into account safety measures, it is forbidden to be near the propeller when starting or when the motor is running.

Before starting the engine, the fuel supply valve must be open; after stopping it must be closed. This is to prevent fuel leaks during transportation. After starting, the engine should warm up a little at low revs and only then can the gear be engaged. At the end of the work, it is necessary to allow the water to drain from all the cooling channels, otherwise water may enter the cylinder.

The motor can be transported on a boat with an additional mount for the motor leg or removed from the boat and laid horizontally on the side where the tiller is located.

For stable operation of all units, it is necessary to change the oil in the gearbox every 6 months or after 100 operating hours. At intervals of 3 months or 50 operating hours, it is necessary to check the spark plugs and, if necessary, clean or replace.

If there is a malfunction, poor starting of the engine, its interruptions, first of all, it is necessary to check the fuel system for dirt and obstructions, as well as the cleanliness and clearance of the electrodes in the spark plugs. These are the main elements that the owner can diagnose and fix on his own. If the malfunctions are not diagnosed and not eliminated, then it is recommended to contact the service center for servicing the outboard motors.

According to the owners, the motors are quite reliable and unpretentious in operation. Timely maintenance of oil change, preparation of the fuel mixture will ensure long-term trouble-free operation. But, like all two-stroke engines, it is noisy and vibrates when running.

I choose a motorcycle between YAMAHA 2 CMHS and SEA-PRO T 2.5S, in general, I need it for a leisurely movement along the reservoir and sometimes the Don River. Flink boat 280TL with outboard transom.

In this connection, I want to ask, first of all, from the owners of the pits, whether it is worth overpaying, because the design and those descriptions are the same for both PLMs.
The Chinese have a number of negative aspects, such as unwillingness to keep the course, even with the screw fully tightened, spilling benzyl when raising his leg, and some others. I ask you to share your experience, is there anything similar in the Yamaha ??

I choose a motorcycle between YAMAHA 2 CMHS and SEA-PRO T 2.5S, in general, I need it for a leisurely movement along the reservoir and sometimes the Don River. Flink boat 280TL with outboard transom.

In this connection, I want to ask, first of all, from the owners of the pits, whether it is worth overpaying, because the design and those descriptions are the same for both PLMs.
The Chinese have a number of negative aspects, such as unwillingness to keep the course, even with the screw fully tightened, spilling benzyl when raising his leg, and some others. I ask you to share your experience, is there anything similar in the Yamaha ??

Spillage of gasoline at the Yamaha was not noticed. Keeping the course is, rather, the problem of the boat, but this was not noticed near the pit - the VLK D-280 boat. In general, these are IMHO different motors - where did the extra half-horse come from? Or is it cheating? Although externally and in terms of parameters - they are similar. I decided for myself in favor of Yamaha, too often Chinese motors require the use of hands - judging by the forum, of course.

In your situation, these are air traps, and the motor itself is not useful here. This phenomenon takes place when the motor hangs high on the transom, especially on ratite flat-bottomed inflatable boats. When moving under the bottom of the boat, air gets in, in the area of ​​the transom it is picked up by a screw, which at this moment begins to spin empty without creating an emphasis. Then the speed drops slightly, the air does not get under the bottom, the motor starts to work normally, accelerating the boat, then the process is repeated. Exit - try to deepen the engine (or, as an option, make the bottom more keeled)

———- Post added at 15:30 ———- Previous post posted at 15:22 ———-

As for the engine - he owned one, used it on the Frigate-280E. The lightest motor among traditional manufacturers Europe-Japan-USA, reliable and trouble-free. Was until they stole

To replace it, a 3.5 hp Johnson was purchased, which proved to be more versatile, tk. allows you to glide alone at a speed of 20-22 km / h.

Do not forget to say thank you for the files by leaving a review.

Below are the optimum RPM ranges for the outboard motors at full throttle and maximum boat load. The engine speed when the boat is moving and with a properly selected propeller should be within the upper half of the specified range.

Select screws that meet these requirements.

2-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS

9.9F, 15F, E9.9D, E15D, EK9.9D, EK15D, EK9.9J, EK15P

E25B, 25B, E30H, 30H, 25X, EK25B, EK25C

55D, E60J, E65A, 75A, E75B, 75C, 85A, 90A

Z150P, Z175G, Z200N, Z150Q, Z175H, Z200P

0 * Left-hand propeller models have the same optimum RPM as right-hand propeller motors.

4-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS

F40D, F50F, FT50G, F60C, FT60D

F75B, F75C, F80B, F80C, F90B, F100D

F / FL200C, F / FL225B, F225C, F / FL250A, F / FL250B

If engine RPM exceeds recommended, replace propeller with a larger pitch propeller.

If engine RPM is lower than recommended, replace the propeller with a smaller pitch propeller.

Do not allow the engine to run at more than the recommended speed for prolonged periods of time, as this may damage the engine.

0 * A 25 mm change in propeller pitch will result in a 200 RPM change in engine speed.

In addition, the change in speed depends on the type of propeller, water (salt / fresh), type of vessel (mass and shape of the hull), etc.

0 * When the engine is lifted using the hydraulic lift system, the maximum engine speed will increase.

This topic is perhaps one of the most relevant today, which is quite understandable. Long gone are the days when mainly domestic "Neptunes" and "Whirlwinds" roamed the water, and the appearance of spare parts laid out on the shore and repairs carried out, as they say, "on the knee" were perceived as the norm of life. Now a similar picture can be observed mainly in the outback. The situation has changed dramatically.The market offers the Russian consumer an almost full range of the latest water-motor equipment from abroad. The availability of engines from the world's leading manufacturers raises a number of questions, and our task is to understand them.

The first question and, perhaps, the main one, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain rpm range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.

There are a number of motors, the connection of tachometers to which is not structurally provided. In this case, when carrying out the test, it is necessary to use special tachometers that allow reading information from high-voltage spark plug wires. And to do this, you will have to again contact a service center equipped with a similar tool. And one more note: the standard propellers that come with the motor are usually matched exactly according to the results of such a test, but remember that your equipment (motor, propeller, boat, load) may become an exception to the rule.

Suppose that by selecting the propeller we have created the conditions for the engine for normal operation. But technique is technique, and breakdowns are still possible. True, there is a difference between breakage and breakdown. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to behave in a given situation. We will immediately exclude the option when the life and health of people depend on the performance of the motor - any interventions are permissible here. We will only consider the issues of current repairs.

It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from your nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.

After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with the service workers. In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation. As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears. Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing the carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative.And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.

Repair associated with the replacement of any engine components or requiring serious diagnostics directly depends on the degree of technical training of the motor owner and equipment. The range of engines currently used on boats is diverse: they are simple carburetor engines, fuel injection systems for four-stroke and two-stroke engines, with OptiMax systems from Mercury and HPDI systems from Yamaha, and with various lubrication systems. All this requires constant professional retraining even from full-time mechanics. Of course, the owner of the motor is not faced with such a task, but he will not receive complete technical documentation for his motor anywhere. It is outlined in the "Service Manual" - a book used by mechanics. It does not go on sale. And if it will probably be possible to understand low-power carburetor motors, and flaws in the repair will not cause consequences, then a sane person himself will not approach a large motor, as "packed" as possible with electronics. And with all due respect to the craftsmen, I do not advise you to trust the engine to a master from a nearby garage. It is your motor that may be structurally different from those that it has successfully repaired before.

There is one more question, the answer to which must be found before proceeding with the repair: do you have a special tool? Having been engaged in the service of imported motors for far from the first year, I have seen enough and heard enough of everyone, but more often they say one thing: “Yes, I didn't have to do it myself. And how much will it cost now? " There is only one rule: if none of the tools you know are suitable for removing or unscrewing a part, stop - most likely a special tool is required for this procedure. I will say more, the tool that you think is suitable can affect the parts precisely in those places that cannot be loaded. In this case, you will not only break the part, but also significantly complicate the subsequent repair.

What I would like to draw the readers' attention to is the problem of spare parts. Where to get them, use "relatives" or find something suitable, does a worn part require replacement or will it still serve? In my practice, there was one motor on which an anti-corrosion anode, not original, but cheap, lasted longer than the engine, but at the same time had a very good presentation. Do not assume that all non-original spare parts are rubbish. There are also very worthy manufacturers. But, in my opinion, if there is an opportunity, it is better, instead of wasting energy, time, and therefore money on finding suitable ones, to contact technical specialists and be confident in the quality of the spare parts purchased. This, incidentally, also applies to oils. In addition, experts will advise which parts you need to purchase in a particular case, since quite often spare parts need to be changed in a bundle.

Replacing one part will not always correct the problem. A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repairs, even if they are outwardly in good condition. As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.

It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true. Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect.In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies of faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.

Considering all of the above, I highly recommend making repairs, adjustments and routine maintenance at a certified service center. It is certified. If, for financial reasons or due to the territorial remoteness of such a center, you are forced to carry out repairs yourself, then, again, it is still necessary to consult a specialist.

Within the framework of one or even several articles, it is impossible to outline all the subtleties of repairing an engine. But there are general trends in the maintenance of certain nodes. The table above lists the main points that must be taken into account when starting a repair.

D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.

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A properly functioning cooling system is critical to long, trouble-free operation of your outboard. If it seemed to you that there was a problem with the cooling of the engine (for example, there is no control stream of water), you must immediately stop the engine to find out the reason.

Often the problem arises either due to wear or damage to the water pump impeller, or clogged cooling passages.

Cooling impeller sellers claim that the impeller must be replaced every time the gearbox is removed. Never reuse a worn impeller!

Gearbox sellers claim that the gearbox changes every time.

In a free country, everyone decides for himself how often to change cooling impeller and gearbox, guided by the description below and understanding the principle operation of the cooling system on the outboard motor.

If there is no water in the control, do not rush to panic and remove the gearbox to replace the impeller - try to clean the control with a wire. Yet control is primarily for monitoring the operation of the cooling system, and the absence of water in it does not in any way affect the operation of the cooling system.
Due to the smaller hole diameter, the control is often clogged with outboard debris.

The cooling system of an outboard motor is usually a water flow. Consists of an intake, a pump and pipelines (see diagram-drawing).

In single-cylinder motors, cooling water can be supplied from behind the bead by the flow pressure, which is thrown by the propeller and captured by a special water intake nose located on the gearbox housing.

In motors of higher power, cooling water is supplied by a pump, which is mainly used as a rotary pump. It is mounted on the vertical shaft by means of a key.

It is not always possible to immediately detect the lack of cooling in a boat motor.
The first sign of engine overheating will be a gradual decrease in RPM. When the water supply to the system is stopped, the upper cylinder, which has a higher initial temperature, overheats faster and becomes more damaged.

Motors stopped at this stage engine overheating, no seizure in the cylinders or seizure of pistons is detected.

In fact, everything is arranged much more complicated and technologically advanced than on the conventional diagram shown above. In order to be convinced of this, it is enough to look at the cooling scheme of the Mercury F30 / F60 outboard motor.

The rotary pump [1] consists of a body and a rubber impeller.

When the engine is running, water sucked from behind the side by the pump [1] is pumped through the tube [2] to the crankcase cover, passes through the channels into the water jacket of the cylinders, in the muffler cavity and goes out.

To control the operation of the cooling system, a hole [3] is provided, popularly referred to as “control”, through which water should flow out when the engine is running.

(In an imported motor, it hits with a neat trickle almost immediately after the motor starts working).

For automatic adjustment of the cooling water supply, a thermostat [4] is installed on the motor, which maintains the optimal temperature regime of the engine operation, which significantly increases its service life.

Because the thermostat works in dirty seawater, then quite often it starts to jam - it does not fully open or does not close. The opening temperature of the thermostat is about 85 °.
The functionality of the thermostat is easy to check by dipping it into hot water - the valve should open about 10mm.

Incorrect operation of the outboard motor cooling system not necessarily related to overheating, it could also be overcooling if the thermostat stuck open.

A thermostat from a Yamaha F115 outboard motor is shown as an example.

Outboard boat engines of the Yamaha 2 models are widely used due to their versatility, relatively low weight and compactness in comparison with other analogues. The main purpose of this brand of motors is vertical fastening to a rigid transom of a wooden or inflatable boat for faster and more confident movement on the water surface.

It is especially important to use the Yamaha 2 outboard motor for lovers of fishing and water recreation, focusing not only on the speed of movement of the vessel, but also on the ease of operation of the engine. After all, it will directly depend on the competent choice of the motor how fast and stable the water transport will move, and how long the boat with the engine will serve the owner.

Due to its technical parameters, the Yamaha 2cmhs outboard motor is in no way inferior to its competitors. What's more, this boat outboard engine is an excellent choice for those buyers who value value for money and reliability.

Due to its small dimensions, the Yamaha 2 outboard motor is easily carried by hand by one person. At the same time, the low weight does not in any way affect the engine power and its performance.

Two-stroke units for Yamaha boats, regardless of the model, are able to serve their owner for a long time without interruption. As for the Yamaha 2 line, in addition to their remarkable performance, they also have a pretty decent speed of movement. A positive effect is achieved due to the technical parameters and the availability of the appropriate configuration, which includes:

1. Yamaha 2 engine includes a set of special tools;
2. a propeller is included with the motor;
3. there is also a built-in fuel tank;
4. there is an additional set of spark plugs;
5. the motor is equipped with an emergency start lanyard.

If there are any doubts about the acquisition of Yamaha two-stroke engines, it is enough to study the main features of this outboard motor, which distinguish it against the background of similar models from other companies:

In general, we can say with confidence that the Yamaha 2 l outboard motor is one of the most reliable and compact representatives of its class, which is easy to operate and maintain.