In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Yamaha 40 outboard motor from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
This topic is perhaps one of the most relevant today, which is quite understandable. Long gone are the days when mainly domestic "Neptunes" and "Whirlwinds" roamed the water, and the appearance of spare parts laid out on the shore and repairs carried out, as they say, "on the knee" were perceived as the norm of life. Now a similar picture can be observed mainly in the outback. The situation has changed dramatically. The market offers the Russian consumer an almost full range of the latest water-motor equipment from abroad. The availability of engines from the world's leading manufacturers raises a number of questions, and our task is to understand them.
The first question and, perhaps, the main one, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain rpm range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.
There are a number of motors, the connection of tachometers to which is not structurally provided. In this case, when carrying out the test, it is necessary to use special tachometers that allow reading information from high-voltage spark plug wires. And to do this, you will have to again contact a service center equipped with a similar tool. And one more note: the standard propellers that come with the motor are usually matched exactly according to the results of such a test, but remember that your equipment (motor, propeller, boat, load) may become an exception to the rule.
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Video (click to play). |
Suppose that by selecting the propeller we have created the conditions for the engine for normal operation. But technique is technique, and breakdowns are still possible. True, there is a difference between breakage and breakdown. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to behave in a given situation. We will immediately exclude the option when the life and health of people depend on the performance of the motor - any interventions are permissible here. We will only consider the issues of current repairs.
It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from your nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.
After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with the service workers. In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation.As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears. Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing the carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative. And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.
Repair associated with the replacement of any engine components or requiring serious diagnostics directly depends on the degree of technical training of the motor owner and equipment. The range of engines currently used on boats is diverse: they are simple carburetor engines, fuel injection systems for four-stroke and two-stroke engines, with OptiMax systems from Mercury and HPDI systems from Yamaha, and with various lubrication systems. All this requires constant professional retraining even from full-time mechanics. Of course, the owner of the motor is not faced with such a task, but he will not receive complete technical documentation for his motor anywhere. It is outlined in the "Service Manual" - a book used by mechanics. It does not go on sale. And if it will probably be possible to understand low-power carburetor motors, and flaws in the repair will not cause consequences, then a sane person himself will not approach a large motor, as "packed" as possible with electronics. And with all due respect to the craftsmen, I do not advise you to trust the engine to a master from a nearby garage. It is your motor that may be structurally different from those that it has successfully repaired before.
There is one more question, the answer to which must be found before proceeding with the repair: do you have a special tool? Having been engaged in the service of imported motors for far from the first year, I have seen enough and heard enough of everyone, but more often they say one thing: “Yes, I didn't have to do it myself. And how much will it cost now? " There is only one rule: if none of the tools you know are suitable for removing or unscrewing a part, stop - most likely a special tool is required for this procedure. I will say more, the tool that you think is suitable can affect the parts precisely in those places that cannot be loaded. In this case, you will not only break the part, but also significantly complicate the subsequent repair.
What I would like to draw the readers' attention to is the problem of spare parts. Where to get them, use "relatives" or find something suitable, does a worn part require replacement or will it still serve? In my practice, there was one motor on which an anti-corrosion anode, not original, but cheap, lasted longer than the engine, but at the same time had a very good presentation. Do not assume that all non-original spare parts are rubbish. There are also very worthy manufacturers. But, in my opinion, if there is an opportunity, it is better, instead of wasting energy, time, and therefore money on finding suitable ones, to contact technical specialists and be confident in the quality of the spare parts purchased. This, incidentally, also applies to oils. In addition, experts will advise which parts you need to purchase in a particular case, since quite often spare parts need to be changed in a bundle.
Replacing one part will not always correct the problem. A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repairs, even if they are outwardly in good condition. As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.
It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true. Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect. In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies of faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.
Considering all of the above, I highly recommend making repairs, adjustments and routine maintenance at a certified service center. It is certified. If, for financial reasons or due to the territorial remoteness of such a center, you are forced to carry out repairs yourself, then, again, it is still necessary to consult a specialist.
Within the framework of one or even several articles, it is impossible to outline all the subtleties of repairing an engine. But there are general trends in the maintenance of certain nodes. The table above lists the main points that must be taken into account when starting a repair.
D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.
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Message Doctor »06 May 2015 19:35
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Message mitya70 »06 May 2015 20:56
What can you say. Andrey, unlimited respect. YOU CAN. 
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What can you say. Andrey, unlimited respect. YOU CAN.
Message Egor »06 May 2015 21:09
Do not forget to say thank you for the files by leaving a review.
Below are the optimum RPM ranges for the outboard motors at full throttle and maximum boat load. The engine speed when the boat is moving and with a properly selected propeller should be within the upper half of the specified range.
Select screws that meet these requirements.
2-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS
9.9F, 15F, E9.9D, E15D, EK9.9D, EK15D, EK9.9J, EK15P
E25B, 25B, E30H, 30H, 25X, EK25B, EK25C
55D, E60J, E65A, 75A, E75B, 75C, 85A, 90A
Z150P, Z175G, Z200N, Z150Q, Z175H, Z200P
0 * Left-hand propeller models have the same optimum RPM as right-hand propeller motors.
4-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS
F40D, F50F, FT50G, F60C, FT60D
F75B, F75C, F80B, F80C, F90B, F100D
F / FL200C, F / FL225B, F225C, F / FL250A, F / FL250B
If engine RPM exceeds recommended, replace propeller with a larger pitch propeller.
If engine RPM is lower than recommended, replace the propeller with a smaller pitch propeller.
Do not allow the engine to run at more than the recommended speed for prolonged periods of time, as this may damage the engine.
0 * A 25 mm change in propeller pitch will result in a 200 RPM change in engine speed.
In addition, the change in speed depends on the type of propeller, water (salt / fresh), type of vessel (mass and shape of the hull), etc.
0 * When the engine is lifted using the hydraulic lift system, the maximum engine speed will increase.
it turns out X is better once it has this option in the package and 1 carb and 2 cylinders - someone already wrote that the simpler the better
I would not use the mix anyway, as it is doubtful with our benz
Most likely it will not work
I read on the water-engine forum about the repair of the hydraulic lift, ordinary oil seals from the bearing company do not hold
if the oil does not flow from anywhere, rather a bypass valve (kmk)
You mean the emergency screw, which is on the side of the trimmer for emergency starting the engine, I tried it, let it go from the beginning, then tightened it, no changes, but the oil does not flow like everything is dry.
no, I'm not talking about the emergency lowering bolt
when lifting and lowering, 2 valves work, one up the other down (maybe, by the way, one valve performs these actions)
while driving on a scythe, you damaged one of them (that is, shock pressure on one of these valves rather ripped off the cuff from it)
everything is only speculative, since in order to say unambiguously it is necessary to disassemble the mechanism.
if I find a catalog I will write in more detail on which valves I had in mind
A properly functioning cooling system is critical to long, trouble-free operation of your outboard. If it seemed to you that there was a problem with the cooling of the engine (for example, there is no control stream of water), you must immediately stop the engine to find out the reason.
Often the problem arises either due to wear or damage to the water pump impeller, or clogged cooling passages.
Cooling impeller sellers claim that the impeller must be replaced every time the gearbox is removed. Never reuse a worn impeller!
Gearbox sellers claim that the gearbox changes every time.
In a free country, everyone decides for himself how often to change cooling impeller and gearbox, guided by the description below and understanding the principle operation of the cooling system on the outboard motor.
If there is no water in the control, do not rush to panic and remove the gearbox to replace the impeller - try to clean the control with a wire. Yet control is primarily for monitoring the operation of the cooling system, and the absence of water in it does not in any way affect the operation of the cooling system.
Due to the smaller hole diameter, the control is often clogged with outboard debris.
The cooling system of an outboard motor is usually a water flow. Consists of an intake, a pump and pipelines (see diagram-drawing).
In single-cylinder motors, cooling water can be supplied from behind the bead by the flow pressure, which is thrown by the propeller and captured by a special water intake nose located on the gearbox housing.
In motors of higher power, cooling water is supplied by a pump, which is mainly used as a rotary pump. It is mounted on the vertical shaft by means of a key.
It is not always possible to immediately detect the lack of cooling in a boat motor.
The first sign of engine overheating will be a gradual decrease in RPM. When the water supply to the system is stopped, the upper cylinder, which has a higher initial temperature, overheats faster and becomes more damaged.
Motors stopped at this stage engine overheating, no seizure in the cylinders or seizure of pistons is detected.
In fact, everything is arranged much more complicated and technologically advanced than on the conventional diagram shown above. In order to be convinced of this, it is enough to look at the cooling scheme of the Mercury F30 / F60 outboard motor.
The rotary pump [1] consists of a body and a rubber impeller.
When the engine is running, water sucked from behind the side by the pump [1] is pumped through the tube [2] to the crankcase cover, passes through the channels into the water jacket of the cylinders, in the muffler cavity and goes out.
To control the operation of the cooling system, a hole [3] is provided, popularly referred to as “control”, through which water should flow out when the engine is running.
(In an imported motor, it hits with a neat trickle almost immediately after the motor starts working).
For automatic adjustment of the cooling water supply, a thermostat [4] is installed on the motor, which maintains the optimal temperature regime of the engine operation, which significantly increases its service life.
Becausethe thermostat works in dirty seawater, then quite often it starts to jam - it does not fully open or does not close. The opening temperature of the thermostat is about 85 °. The functionality of the thermostat is easy to check by dipping it into hot water - the valve should open about 10mm.
Incorrect operation of the outboard motor cooling system not necessarily related to overheating, it could also be overcooling if the thermostat stuck open.
A thermostat from a Yamaha F115 outboard motor is shown as an example.
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Since Yamaha is constantly working to improve its products, therefore, your motor parts may not fully match the descriptions or illustrations in this book. Use only the most recent version of the manual. Yamaha authorized dealers are periodically notified of design, specification or repair changes, all of which will be included in the next revision of this manual.
Content
1. General information
2. Specifications
3. Periodic checks and adjustments
4. Power system
5. Engine
6. Deadwood, reducer
7. Bracket
8. Electrical system
9. Troubleshooting
Manual format
All procedures in this guide are presented in a step-by-step format. The information is presented in such a way that it is easy to read, all the necessary explanations are provided for all disassembly, repair, assembly and inspection operations.
For example, first the component is indicated, then its possible state (malfunction) and after the arrow, the actions to be taken. To help you find the information you need in the manual, section icons and important headings have been moved to the top of the page (header).
Engine model indication
Model 25VMN 30NMN
Designation 25VMN 30NMN
Illustrations
The illustrations in this manual are for all of the above models.
Cross-references
Cross-references have been kept to a minimum and will point you to the correct paragraph or section.
dqdmitry »11 Jul 2014, 18:31
Owners of the YAMAHA 40 VEOS are invited to discuss.
You can share your experience and just show off this excellent motor.
Here's what I found from the documentation for this motor:
Owner's Manual (1) for YAMAHA 40 VEOS
.
Or look directly on the forum:
Owner's Manual (2) for YAMAHA 40 VEOS
Or look directly on the forum:
Service Manual for YAMAHA 40 VEOS
Or look directly on the forum:
Oleg61 »21 Jul 2014, 11:18
kabanofff »30 Jul 2014, 10:05
dqdmitry »30 Jul 2014, 11:20
find them. I can't figure out something.
dqdmitry »30 Jul 2014, 12:29
kabanofff »30 Jul 2014, 15:58
dqdmitry "30 Jul 2014, 16:22
Try to write to Nicholas (Nikolay BP) in LS, he also has a veos, maybe he was engaged in the synchronization of carbs.
My friend had a Yama 50 for about 7 years, also a mixer, and a used one from Vladik. The shoals climbed out with pomp, with an oil seal on their leg. But he never touched the carbs for the entire time, so he sold them. Worked fine.
What are the symptoms on the veos? Sausage at idle?
kabanofff "30 Jul 2014, 16:50
dqdmitry "30 Jul 2014, 17:29
Outboard motors were invented at the beginning of the 20th century. For the first time, the American Ol Evinrud began to make them. Over the decades, these motors have gained immense popularity, and many manufacturers have emerged who are constantly improving their products. Among them was the Japanese company Yamaha, which today produces some of the best outboard motors in the world. The range of engines is very wide, from the smallest for small boats to large ones with a capacity of several hundred horsepower. Next, let's talk about Yamaha outboard engines in more detail.
All motors break down sooner or later, even very high quality ones. In order for this to happen less often or not at all, maintenance of Yamaha outboard motors must be carried out within a clearly established time frame and according to the algorithm established by the manufacturer. Most Yamaha engines are made up of the following parts (composition may vary by model):
- Engine cover.
- Steering friction adjusting screw.
- Anti-cavitation plate.
- Propeller screw.
- Trim angle adjusting rod.
- Clamping bracket.
- Tiller.
- Start handle.
- Rope attachment.
- Air damper carburetor.
- Gear shift knob.
In order to perform maintenance on a Yamaha outboard motor, you need to adhere to the following algorithm:
- Removal, disassembly and cleaning of the engine carburetor. This is done in order to optimally tune the ignition system and the carburetor itself.
- Cleaning the fuel system. The procedure must be performed regularly, as this is a guarantee of low fuel consumption by the boat engine. Oil, pieces of dirt or water can enter the tank and system with gasoline.
- Maintenance of Yamaha outboard motors includes, among other things, the procedure for changing the oil in the gearbox. Moreover, as the certified specialists of the manufacturer recommend, this should be done as often as possible, without waiting for the oil to turn into an emulsion and the engine power begins to drop.
- After the above maintenance steps, you can prepare the engine for operation and adjust the ignition and carburetor. These two systems, ideally, should work flawlessly, since engine power and optimal fuel consumption directly depend on them. Yamaha outboard motor service should include this item.
When working, you should always remember about safety measures. You can read more about them in the Engine and Boat Operation Manual. If you trust specialists, and they are professionals, to maintain Yamaha outboard motors, then the workers will do everything for you.
People are forced to carry out repairs if Yamaha outboard motors are not serviced on time or in an abnormal situation. The repair procedure involves a more detailed diagnosis of the engine and its components.First of all, in order to find out the nature of the breakdown, specialists will carry out computer diagnostics of the engine in the service center. This is done at special stands using proprietary equipment. Routine maintenance of your Yamaha outboard motor does not involve this procedure.
In order to carry out diagnostics, you must first remove the engine from the boat. This action must be carried out carefully and in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements. It is important to take into account in which position the motor can be placed on the surface to prevent gasoline or oil from leaking from it. Engines often have stickers with similar instructions.
After removal, disassembly of the engine follows. Repairing Yamaha outboard motors is not easy, so it is recommended that you have it serviced by a qualified service technician. Often, special keys and tools are needed for disassembly, which are only available in service centers. Also, many parts may have a warranty seal that cannot be removed for warranty service. After the engine has been disassembled, the next stage of repairing Kiev Yamaha outboard motors is a defect finding. This term should be understood as an assessment of the suitability of individual engine parts. That is, what should be replaced, what should be repaired, and what should be left as is. Troubleshooting should be carried out by an experienced specialist or a group of specialists, each of whom is responsible for his own group of parts.
Overhaul Is the process of restoring engine performance. After the analysis of all the details has been made, you can proceed directly to the overhaul. To do this, it must be removed from the boat and completely disassembled (we discussed this above). It is also advisable to rinse the parts in order to free them from dirt and oil, as well as for a better visual inspection. Of course, repairing Yamaha outboard motors will not be complete without analyzing the cylinder block. This procedure includes determining the backlash, geometry and cylinder size. For this, special devices are used: internal meters, probes or dies. After the analysis has been carried out, a decision is made on the boring of the cylinder block. After boring, as a rule, honing is done, that is, high-precision abrasive processing of the block surface.
This is followed by the repair of the cylinder head. It is also better to entrust this procedure to professionals from the service center, because this requires special knowledge, tools and equipment. Repairing a Yamaha outboard motor gearbox is not as difficult as repairing an outboard motor. Therefore, most shipowners can do it themselves. The main requirement here is tightness. After all the above procedures have been completed, the worn out parts are replaced with new ones, and the broken ones are repaired, the engine is assembled. This process is the opposite of disassembly in sequence. Repair of outboard motors is a breeze Yamaha, as described above, it is best to delegate a certified technician. Boat motors with the unassuming name "Veterok" are quite popular old engines, as a rule, still of Soviet production. You can find a lot of good literature on their repair, as well as DIY specialists, in contrast to the professional Yamaha. There are electronic versions of books on the Internet that describe the device, operation and repair of a boat motor is a breeze. Yamaha gives out similar books when buying a motor.
So, after assembling the engine, it needs to be installed on the boat. This procedure is the opposite of the stripping process. You can read about this in detail in the operation manual, or, again, delegate this to specialists. After the engine is installed on the watercraft, it must be filled with gasoline and oil. Which brands of these fluids to use is described in detail in the engine operating instructions.
So, in this article, we briefly examined the algorithms by which you need to carry out maintenance and repair of Yamaha boat engines.These motors of a wonderful Japanese company have proven their quality and reliability many times. But, like any mechanism, they also need care. If you regularly perform maintenance, as well as change oil and consumables, then, undoubtedly, the engine will serve you a long and loyal service.
Dealer's documentation for the repair of 2- and 4-stroke outboard motors and year-cycle Yamaha (Yamaha).
Dealer's documentation for the repair of Yamaha outboard motors (Yamaha), Yamaha jet skis FX160, Yamaha FX160 Cruiser
The Yamaha watercraft repair book is supplied on 2 CDs, the following models of outboard motors Yamaha 40x, E40g, E40J, E40X, EK40G, EK40J, E60H, F15B, Yamaha F25C, F50F, F60C, FT50G, Yamaha FT60D, F80B, F100D are presented.
In the Yamaha outboard motor repair catalog, 2 and 4-stroke models of motors are available, as well as 4-stroke Yamaha jet skis (Yamaha).
The manual contains detailed instructions for the repair, maintenance, diagnostics of Yamaha water equipment. Detailed information is provided on disassembly and assembly of all components and assemblies, the location of electrical assemblies and blocks, and electrical wiring diagrams are also available.
This manual for the repair and maintenance of Yamaha watercraft will be indispensable for services involved in the repair and maintenance of outboard motors and jet skis of the Japanese company Yamaha.
Models presented in the Yamaha Outboard Motors & Watercraft Repair program.
Outboard motor
2-Stroke Models (Other)
40x
E40g
E40J
E40X
EK40G
EK40J
E60H
4-Stroke Models (Other)
F15B
F25C
F50F
F60C
FT50G
FT60D
F80B
F100D
Special Service Tool List
Watercraft
4-Stroke Models
FX160
FX160 Cruiser
Sections presented in the Yamaha Outboard Motors & Watercraft Repair program:
General information
Specifications
Periodic checks and adjustments
Fuel system
Power unit
Lower unit
Bracket unit
Electrical systems
Trouble
Screenshots:
Click on the small picture, the large one will open in a new window.
Good Morning, Everyone. Help me find, I need a manual for repairing YAMAHI-40. Have a friend, water in the gearbox, needs to be disassembled, but it is interesting to familiarize yourself with this before. I downloaded my Honda-made-manual (thanks-Gene-Kiev-64), everything is there, but I can't find it on AMAHU.
Added after 18 minutes
The gearbox was checked for air (like Honda) - on the propeller shaft, there is nothing, - on the reverse thrust, too, no, - but on the SHAFT GEAR (vertical) - WHEN TURNING - there are bubbles from under the oil seals, so I understood. Shoot-disassemble-as well as in his own Honda.
Thanks to ALL. disassembled a little doing. Truth on Honda is simpler. to get to the oil seals, I had to disassemble the gearbox, after removing the propeller shaft with the hub, on the vertical (gear shaft) nut, under 17 keys, I first removed the pump housing, mirror. only after unstretching the shaft and gear, the shaft came out, with a light tapping with a mallet, on the gearbox housing. everything is primitive, but with such a brand. on Honda, more easier. the gearbox did not have to be disassembled. two oil seals in a glass-22.35,5.6 (internal, external and thickness) you simply pressed your finger, on the propeller shaft (we will also change) two oil seals-22367. The same parameters, just in case, can someone come in handy. Rubber O-rings - dimensions are not removed - it's easier there. the main thing is to climb up the AI to pull out this glass, with oil seals, without a gearbox slave - it's not realistic. Good luck everyone. A Honda is easier. True, to disassemble the gearbox, you need a key (asterisk) - (toothed) but this is already there. did.
Added after 2 minutes
I wrote on a tablet, I apologize for the mistakes.
These are bearings from the hub itself - or from the gearbox housing behind the forward gear. Here the problem is only in the presence of water (oil seals), so I checked the gears and bearings. When disassembling, I saw, it is necessary to make a PULLER, but what and even if there was a drawing or a sample. - a stripper. Photos to lay out-no problem-so-what-they will give? The sequence of disassembly - I'll write it off before work (in the morning) a little time. I will take pictures, I will post.
Added after 5 minutes
That is why I asked -MANUAL for repair. In the Honda manual - both the strippers and all the bells and whistles and the sequence of disassembly-assembly are shown - there is something to scuffle and do for yourself. The same key - for disassembling the hub of the gearbox - without it, the hub cannot be removed. but that's a Honda.
There are different pullers, here, you need a three-legged foot. for me, it is better to heat it up and knock it out, quietly knock it out. When working with a puller, the seat is disturbed, after which the bearing will dangle (I ran into this on Vortexes, and GRAYS said GRAY) now this is the only way. Of course, you won't heat everything up, but just now, I looked, you can burn, BUT AMOUNT.
Added after 7 minutes
Photos from the tablet can not be thrown off, I will drop them on my computer at home, then I'll post them.
1-remove the pump casing - by unscrewing -4 bolts (preliminary-the reducer is removed) 2-remove the impeller- (key-small) 3-remove the mirror- (pump base -impellers) .. Disassembly of the reducer-1-unscrew the two bolts on the hub of the reducer .2-turn and pull out the gearbox glass, -together with the shaft and the gear (the glass-hub-can be tapped slowly with a wooden guide-it comes out quietly-the hub is turned beforehand-so that you can knock on the ears-or a puller) .3-clamp the shaft-vertical in a vice using gaskets so as not to pick up the shaft (or having an adaptation to hold it by the upper slot) - unscrew the nut on the gear-key-17 (or the head) personally used the nut on-17.4-tapping on the gearbox housing with a mallet - pull the shaft along with everyone bells and whistles. Further - I think it is not necessary.
Added after 14 minutes
For -pressing the bearings from the gearbox housing (vertical shaft), you can use a puller (homemade) glass-hairpin with a thread washer and a couple of nuts. The principle is a glass on top (with a bottom with a hole for a hairpin) - the length of the stud and the diameter - so that it passes into the bearing - freely through, - into the gearbox housing - the washer is less than the bearing diameter, - by -0.5-1mm with a hole under the hairpin and nut. We put the glass on the gearbox housing, from above, thread the hairpin, -we put on the washer, -screw the nut. Top-hairpin-BOLT-twist and everything climbs out. I made a puller for disassembling the Neptune gearbox - the same principle - only there - the shaft is removed (in my opinion) and the gear is in place with a bunch of bearings and also pulled out - to change the bearings - or the shift cams - LARGE-HEMOR. Well, that seems to be EVERYTHING. GOOD LUCK EVERYONE.
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Added after 1 hour 42 minutes
I completely forgot. How to check the gearbox-subtracted in the Honda repair manual-a fitting is screwed into the upper oil control hole in the gearbox (thread-m-8 normal step-and air-pressure-0.2 atm is supplied-the propeller shaft is rotated alternately, -shaft -gear (vertical shaft), reverse thrust (speed shifting -. where there is air leakage, there is a problem. Personally-made-silicone hose-on the fitting, -the union into the gearbox, -the reducer into the water (at work, a bathtub for checking the slopes) hose in his mouth, and blew the hose with his teeth. and twist-everything is concrete-visible. On the Honda manual, a pump-with a pressure gauge is shown, -well -and everything else as I-already described. can.
