DIY boat motor repair Neptune 23

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of boat motors neptune 23 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

arthoor Jan 29, 2004

Welcome Arthur. Yes, the topic is really important.
There have been publications on this topic in C&L, they are in the first stage for digitization. Here is a list of them.
86 Efremov Yu.S., Mukhin Yu.N., Sinilshchikov B.E. Repair of the outboard motor "Neptune-23". With. 68-72, 3 ill.
Malfunctions of the cooling system and their consequences. Assessment of wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group and connecting rod-crank mechanism. Engine disassembly techniques. Selection of pistons and cylinders. Repair of the crankshaft and its bearings. Checking the bearings and gears of the gearbox, determining the optimal meshing clearance.

114 Vodar A.A. Your motor "Neptune-23" (advice for beginners).

And almost all articles are interesting to one degree or another, there are very few repetitive ones. So I ask for a little patience.

I attach the list of articles from collections from no. 28 to no. 117.
There is a graph of value, I ask you to download and put a value on the 5th scale, and then send it to me by email, I will see who is interested in what and, first of all, we will digitize these articles and the rest as far as possible.

Greetings Arthur.
The topic you have created is very good and really relevant, the only one for some reason, I saw its development a little different.
How does a “beginner” differ from a “professional”? A beginner has a minimum of knowledge and experience on the topic, in contrast to a professional who, based on his knowledge and experience, can recommend something, etc.

For example, you gave a link to candles. For example, I know which thread with which pitch, the length of the thread, which washer is needed, which glow number, etc. on the basis of that table, having thought about it, I can choose the desired candle. For a beginner, it will look like a mockery, and if he does not hesitate, then I am more than sure that his next question will be - how to choose the right candle, which one is better, etc.
Moreover, a correctly selected candle does not guarantee good and stable performance, if it were so, there would not have been so many candle manufacturers and such a huge assortment.
In this case, if you have experience in operating some specific candles from this manufacturer, then it is better to write like this.
I have operated such and such candles for such and such a period, no / glow ignition has been detected, they do not / work stably at idle, in comparison with such and such, the following advantages, non-flaws, recommendations have been revealed. This is what I understand a concrete help to a beginner.

Video (click to play).

The links are very good and really useful, for those who are interested in this and who are ready to delve into what is written there in those articles, if possible, I will also replenish this topic.

Therefore, I suggest:
1. For beginners, ask specific questions here.
2. For those who know - give a specific answer here.
3. As additional information and, if necessary, give a link somewhere.

I think it will be much more human.

PS: Arthur, we will transfer your links to a separate topic for now, and we will simply post them on the club's website, in the links section.

arthoor 02 Feb 2004

I started this topic in anticipation of the long-awaited site and remembering the search for information after purchasing the motor.
There is no need for everyone to browse the web in search of the same information. But this is lyrics and repetition.
The link from the motorboat was removed in vain, it connects outboard motors and motorcycles (in the sense of carburetors) and the picture is colorful.
2 Yuri
which candles did you use before tuning, and which Boshevskie candles do you use now?
And what kind of carb do you have K68i or K68d? And how does the corrector work (suction among the people), how did you defeat the cable traction on the corrector?

2 Arthur.
By candlelight - I've tried a lot.
On contact ignition (MH-1 without alterations)
SI-12RT, ok.
PAL-14-7ZR are excellent candles for contact, despite the fact that the candles are already two decades old and the electrodes are almost completely worn out - there are two oiled in the spare parts.
A-17DV - good, operated even in racing mode (8000-9000 rpm). In my opinion, unstable blanks.
When operating them with commutator ignition, 4 pieces flew into the trash can, the reasons - the claps from the carba, the dips at idle, most likely a poor-quality insulator pierced and they sewed inside themselves.
Now Bosh WR-78G Super FOUR electrode spark plugs, would recommend for commutator in extreme cases electronic ignition, are especially good when working on a track.
I want to try the plasmaphore - given the combustion chamber of Neptune in the form of a “jacquey hat” and the concentration of the entire working mixture in one place, I can assume a good result when working with such candles, since a powerful directed plasma flow will simultaneously ignite almost the entire mixture, but such candles are only for commutator.

As for karba - I personally promise to lay out as soon as possible all the information on K36, K62, K65 and K68, including instructions for adjusting and tuning.

At the moment there is K68D - in great detail and I wrote a lot about this in the “Discussion of the article”, and tests etc. please read.

Arthur, have you read my article or not? There everything is described how I “sorted out” the suction, in a nutshell - with the help of a cable in the bowden one end for the suction, the other for the exhaust relay in the starter. It opens only at the moment of start-up, and more is not needed, as practice has shown.

Arthur, since if the club forum is located on the territory of the CC, then the CC rules apply to the club forum, and there is a point
prohibited 3.17. Discussion of the moderator's actions related to punishing one or another participant and / or removing his posting. All communication on this issue can only go by e-mail.
Moreover, I specifically checked - except for the instructions for K65, there is nothing about the neptunes at all.

arthoor 03 Feb 2004

Yuri,
I did not read your article in the magazine due to the absence of the latter. C&Y magazine in the Ukrainian province is in short supply.
But I know the content.
Everyone has read your posts in the forums.
Something that helped. Thank you.
Questions arose posed by life itself.
Candles SI 12 RT have not been seen in our area for seven years. About carburetors (I mean interchangeability with other mechanisms) you put the last point in your answer.
PAL-14-7ZR - who is the manufacturer?
We are waiting for the site.
Good luck.
arthoor

Roman * 02 Mar 2004

I hope to receive from you the most complete answers to these (sometimes funny for you) questions. I think that it will be interesting to many.
Thanks in advance to everyone who answered.
Sincerely.
Novel.

arthoor 03 Mar 2004

2 Novel
"Before you finally ditch your engine, read the instructions carefully."

I will put down your numbering, only with answers
1.admissible, but analogue of TAD 17
2. A92 cannot be poured (during normal operation), A76 or 80
3.any, analogs of SI 12 RT
4.Oil must be for 2-stroke gasoline engines
5.I don't know, on Neman2 I use a blue screw
6.read and try to remember the manufacturer's instructions and check the tightness of threaded connections (nuts and bolts)
7 take a tank from Breeze or Whirlwind, or do it yourself
8 not needed
9 is possible, but not necessary
10 practice with switching the reverse on the non-working and then on the working motor. Do not start with “gear engaged”. Do not work dry. Do not place the carburetor in sand, etc. Carefully read the instructions and think with your own head, remembering that you have Neptune 23E, not Yamaha80.
Sincerely
Arthur

"Nothing lets you learn your engine like a breakdown."
from manual “Hitachi B&W KGF”

arthoor 06 Mar 2004

arthoor 13 Mar 2004

TOMORROW TO THE WATER.
Yura,
if possible, launder new instructions for Neptune 23 for me.
The people ask strongly and pitifully.
Sincerely
Arthur.

P.S.
maybe got excited with Poland?
PPS
JIKOV carb at the bazaar near Kherson give a new one for 25 tanks

Bearings and seals for neptune.
Crankshaft upper and lower bearings 305.There are even seals 25x35 * 5 (5 is the standard height, I have not found any analogs with this height. There are similar 25x35x7. I checked them - they intermeddle.
Needle on resor 941/20. I forgot which stuffing box but analogous I found, according to catalog 160259130.
Next thrust 8204.
The next two-row roller seems to have no analogues.
Bearings for GV, from the front 3056205, from the rear 303K2, behind it an oil seal according to catalog 160259210.
That's all.

Hi Yuri!
As for the kvala oil seals (35x25x5), then the oil seals from the HYUNDAI Sonata III are suitable for the front oil seal the balance of the shaft catalog number (original) 21421-33134. One-to-one oil seal. We have it costs about 120 rubles apiece. I'm trying to find the rest.
As for the bearings, complete numbers would be desirable (meaning with the accuracy class, etc.)
The fact that the qualification costs 305 is understandable and true. It is the full catalog number that interests.
Thank you.

1. Is it allowed to change the oil in the gearbox with an imported one and which one?
2. Is it possible to fill in AI-92?
3. What other options for imported candles are suitable for Н23Э?
4. Are there any nuances when operating a motor on imported oil?
5. What screw should be used to operate the motor on the inflatable at minimum and maximum load?
6. What should be done immediately after buying a new motor to ensure its trouble-free operation (the most necessary and feasible at home, ie without the involvement of complex equipment)?
7. What are the options with replacing the standard canister with something more aesthetic, lightweight and convenient (in addition to buying a tank from an imported PLM)?
8. Is it possible (is it necessary) to replace the candle wires with silicone (automobile) and candlesticks with the same automobile ones (or in the standard ones there is some resistance inside)?
9. Is it allowed to glue the hood inside or outside with any materials in order to reduce noise?
10. Your recommendations for dummies in order to warn against the most common mistakes in motor operation!

I would also like to join the discussion of these issues.
Further on the points.

Welcome. Please drop a message from your email to the club email (in the signature) - I will send the pages from the catalog.
I found bearings and oil seals at a firm specializing exclusively in them. They have about 2500-3000 bearing names and about 1000 oil seals (Switzerland, Taiwan to choose from). So they have 305 bearings of about 15 pieces of different qualities, etc. Oil seals (Switzerland) for about $ 1 each thing.

I found bearings and oil seals at a firm specializing exclusively in them. They have about 2500-3000 bearing names and about 1000 oil seals (Switzerland, Taiwan to choose from). So they have 305 bearings of about 15 pieces of different qualities, etc. Oil seals (Switzerland) for about $ 1 each thing.

Hi Yuri.
It is understandable with highly specialized offices, but this option is not very good. at least with us, tk. oil seals of such diameters are available on request.
They are certainly cheaper, but not available. If we establish from which common car (s) they are suitable, then they can be searched for in car shops and service stations, thereby ensuring speed and reliability, well, maybe a little to the detriment of cost.
As for the bearings, that's cool. We have the most popular 6-305, but as you understand it sucks. Well, we will look for nothing with "mother-of-pearl buttons."

This is not what I wanted to say. Pieces of 15 different varieties - closed open, persistent, etc. Well, the quality seems to be different, I will put 6 of that, it is no longer needed.
There is a FAG - but a little expensive for me.

According to the reference book, bearings are (it is lower to higher) 0-6-5-4-2
qualifications.In this case, 6 turns out to be the penultimate one. I want something more.
Actually.

the load on the pivot axis may increase, making it harder to turn.

This is understandable. It seems to me that the length of the axle (in the turning part) is insufficient
, and since the deadwood motor under load acts as a lever (relative to the axis), i.e. trying to "turn it out" from here and increase the load + the effect of the gyroscope since the screw rotates at a higher speed and because of this, the force vector does not want to change (but this is my guess)
Lubrication is not enough, hmmm. It seems to have smeared, I will try to sort it out, I will smear it on a new one, maybe straight.

The first motors "Neptune" were released in 1967. However, this motor became really popular from 1972-1973, when the Krasny Oktyabr plant (now the Moscow machine gun) mastered the production of new modifications - "Neptune-M" and "Neptune-23"... Due to the high reliability of the engine, most owners of Neptuns have successfully operated these motors for many years without renovation and disassembly... Only after five to eight seasons of intensive operation (500-800 hours of operation) do we have to admit that the engine starts to start worse and its power drops noticeably. Of course, there are times when some owners have to carry out repairs earlier than this period, however, engine breakdowns are caused, as a rule, by a violation of the operating instructions.

If we exclude the malfunctions associated with the operation of the engine without oil, then the most common, apparently, will be breakdowns caused by prolonged operation of the engine on a lean mixture or its overheating when the supply of cooling water is interrupted.

Recall that when working on a lean mixture, the combustion rate of the mixture decreases, as a result of which afterburning occurs during the expansion stroke. This causes an increase in the temperature of the piston bottom and piston rings, which leads to burnout of the piston bottom or to burning of the rings, when, as a result of the deposition of varnish films in the piston grooves, the mobility of the rings sharply decreases and, therefore, the breakthrough of gases into the crankcase increases. In this case, the temperature of the piston in the region of the rings additionally increases both due to the effect of these gases and due to the fact that, when its mobility deteriorates, the ring comes into contact with the cylinder surface only in certain places. This leads to poor heat dissipation from the piston to the cylinder. In this regard, the material of the outer surfaces of the piston in the area of the rings softens and the rings are rolled, i.e., their mobility decreases for purely mechanical reasons. Naturally, in this case, the engine power decreases. Due to the different distribution of the mixture over the cylinders, these phenomena most often do not occur simultaneously (usually, starting from the upper cylinder).

With a twin-engine installation, the drop in power may not be noticed. However, after stopping the engine, as a rule, does not start, while sometimes it is possible to determine that the compression in the cylinders is different. In the event of a flash in damaged cylinders, exhaust gases enter the crankcase, reach the intake manifold and even the carburetor, causing the engine to stall. After several jerks, the exhaust gases are removed from the crankcase, separate outbreaks occur again and everything is repeated from the beginning. If at the same time unscrew the spark plug from the damaged cylinder, then the engine will run stably on the undamaged one. Moreover, if you short-circuit the high-voltage wire to ground, then such an engine can operate on one cylinder for a long time.

If the supply of cooling water is interrupted, the number of revolutions first decreases slightly, and the sound of the motor becomes more muffled. If at the same time the gas is suddenly released, the engine stalls, but, as a rule, no damage occurs. If this is not noticed in time, the engine will stop by itself due to jamming of the pistons. After stopping, you will smell burnt paint, and the temperature of the outer parts, especially in the area of the muffler and the head gasket, will be more than 100 °.

If, at the same time, serious engine breakdowns did not occur (breakage or bending of the connecting rod, breakage of the piston), then after the engine cools down and the malfunction of the cooling system is eliminated, in principle it can be started. However, one should not rush. The fact is that when jamming, as a rule, there is a "sticking", that is, aluminum is welded onto the cylinder mirror, and very hard wear products are pressed onto the lateral surfaces of the piston. If they are not removed, then deep risks will form at this place, compression will worsen, engine power will decrease and start will be difficult. Therefore, after stopping the engine due to overheating, it is necessary to remove the head and inspect the condition of the cylinder mirror. If there are traces of "sticking", you will have to remove the cylinder block.

On the cylinder, traces of "sticking" are removed with hydrochloric acid or a scraper and cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper, on the piston - only with a scraper. "Sticking" in the area of the piston rings can lead to their rolling, ie, cause a mechanical reason for the imbalance of the rings. In this case, carefully remove the rings and straighten their grooves. Disassembly of the engine should be done according to the instructions, useful advice on this issue can be found in the book by E. N. Semenov and R. V. Strashkevich "Motors" Whirlwind "on a boat" (L .: Sudostroenie, 1978).

When the cylinder-piston group is worn out, it becomes difficult to start the engine (especially when the deadwood is deeply submerged in water), and its power also decreases.

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the engine, it is necessary to check the condition of the power supply and ignition system once again, make sure that the difficult starting and the drop in power are associated with engine wear. However, even in this case, it is advisable to assess the condition of its main components before complete disassembly. Note that such an assessment should be carried out in cases where there is no firm confidence in the need for repairs, or when it is required to assess the condition of the engine, the operating time of which is unknown.

To assess the degree of wear, the engine must be disconnected from the deadwood, the carburetor, magneto, the block head, as well as the pipes and screens located opposite the exhaust windows, must be removed. First of all, you need to check the tightness of the spools to the crankcase. To do this, the crankshaft is turned so that the spool completely closes the intake port. If you try to squeeze the spool through the inlet channel with your finger, then from the very beginning the force of pressing the springs should be felt.

Next, the condition of the upper and lower cuffs is checked. For this, 100 cm³ of the mixture is poured into the corresponding crankcase cavity; if the mixture penetrates through the cuffs even in the form of the thinnest film, then their quality is unsatisfactory (naturally, when checking the upper cuff, the engine must be turned over).

Then the condition of the cylinder mirror (see above) and the mobility of the rings are checked by examining through the exhaust windows when the piston moves up and down. The end clearance formed by the ring in the groove of the new piston should be 0.1 mm (maximum allowable is 0.25 mm). The gap is measured with a feeler gauge.

Next, cylinder wear is determined. Measurements are made using an internal gauge or a shtihmass (which is less convenient). The simplest home-made shtikhmass (Fig. 1) consists of a bolt 1 with a spherical tip having a fine thread, and a bushing 2 to reduce the backlash in the connection in the bushing, three or four longitudinal cuts are made, after which they are crimped. The weight is inserted into the cylinder, then the bolt is unscrewed until a slight "bite" appears when one end of the weight is wiggled along the axis of the cylinder; the other end must be motionless. The resulting size is taken with a micrometer.

The measurement starts from the top of the cylinder, where there is an unworn belt, that is, it is essentially a control. The next measurement is performed just below the flange, where the wear is maximum: in a plane passing through the crankshaft axis, as well as in a plane perpendicular to it.The difference between these diameters will indicate liner ellipticity, and the maximum difference between any of these diameters and the diameter of the unworn shoulder will indicate the maximum cylinder wear. The maximum allowable liner wear should not exceed 0.15 mm, and the ellipseness should not exceed 0.05 mm.

After that, using a narrow probe through the exhaust ports, measure the gap between the liner and the piston skirt (with the piston at TDC). The normal clearance is 0.10-0.12 mm, the maximum allowable is 0.35 mm.

Next, we determine the wear of the extreme main bearings of the crankshaft and the seating surfaces for the bearings; to do this, we attach the indicator to the crankcase, and rest its leg against the crankshaft neck. By shaking the crankshaft, we measure the radial play, which should be no more than 0.04 mm. Then we strengthen the indicator so that its leg rests against the center of the piston crown (when the piston is at TDC). By pressing on the piston from the side of the head and through the outlet ports, we measure the total backlash in the main and connecting rod bearings, as well as in the connecting rod - finger - piston assembly.

If we assume that the maximum radial clearances are 0.04 in the main bearings, 0.04 in the connecting rod, 0.025 in the upper connecting rod and 0.015 in the piston, then the total backlash should not exceed 0.12 mm. Considering that in real operating conditions the wear of these units is not strictly uniform, then in the case when the difference between the total backlash and the radial clearance in the corresponding main bearing exceeds 0.07-0.08 mm, it can be assumed that the wear of the connecting rod bearing has reached the maximum permissible magnitudes. With such a check, it is impossible to assess the wear of the middle main bearing of the crankshaft, as well as the wear of the rings in diameter. However, as a rule, the rate of wear of these units does not differ significantly from the rate of wear of the units discussed earlier. If the measured clearances exceed the permissible limits, then parts should be replaced.

Complete disassembly of the engine is carried out in accordance with the instructions. It is recommended to remove the upper and lower crankcase using the simplest device, which is a steel or duralumin plate δ = 6-8 mm with a central hole for the M8-10 bolt, which rests against the end of the crankshaft. Mounting holes are drilled in the plate, corresponding to the three holes for attaching the magneto on the crankcase boss and four holes for attaching the engine to the deadwood (closest to the engine axis). To remove the upper half of the crankcase, the plate is put in place of the magneto, and to shoot the lower half, on the lower part of the crankcase. The crankcase halves are pressed out when the central bolt is screwed in. The piston pin is removed from the piston (as it is installed in it) either when the piston is heated to 60 - 80 °, or with the help of a simple device (see, for example, the aforementioned book by E. N. Semenov and R. V. Strashkevich).

After disassembling the motor, the condition of the ball and roller bearings is checked (fig. 2).

The value of the radial clearance of the middle, main and connecting rod bearings is checked, which should not be more than 0.04 mm. If there are traces of fatigue chipping or corrosion on their treadmills, then it is advisable to replace such bearings regardless of the size of the radial clearance. When turning the inner and outer rings of the bearings on the shaft journal or in the holes in the housing, a depletion appears, which leads to a violation of the landings (the diameter of the upper and lower trunnions is

A worthy person cannot but possess the breadth of knowledge and firmness of spirit. His burden is heavy, and his journey is long. Humanity is the burden he carries: is it heavy? Only death completes his journey: is it long?
Confucius (551-479 BC)

Author Topic: Tuning 2-stroke outboard motors Neptune-23 (Read 49032 times)

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Good day to all. There is such a beast - Neptune 23, was bought after the capital.It worked amazingly for two seasons, but not knowing the correct operation led to unstable operation and laxity of the motor.

The very culprit of such a consequence

The motor served faithfully, and now the moment has come to reciprocate.

I decided to make a major overhaul of the CAM. That is, with your own hands. In fact, I know how to unscrew the candles, replace the TLM and put a new key, this is where my knowledge ends

Boat motors "Neptune" are considered "Russian classics" in the world of motors. Of the entire series of these outboard motors "Neptune 23" is the quietest, and in terms of reliability, satisfaction and operation, it is better than other Russian-made motors. In this article we will consider the characteristics and description of the Neptune 23 motor.

Contact ignition (МН-1 with external TLM transformers).
The fuel pump is unified with "Whirlwind" and "Privet".
Three-channel reciprocating-loop cylinder blowing circuit.
The reverse link is split, which makes it easy to remove the gearbox.

Of all domestic motors of comparable power, Neptune-23 is the "quietest" due to the fact that the engine is attached to the suspension through rubber shock absorbers and thus there is no direct metal contact between the engine and the boat hull, which serves as a conductor of sound from the rest of the outboard motors.

There were few flaws in the "Neptune-23" of the seventies.
Between the pallet and the deadwood there was an annular gap through which, on a large wave, the candles were flooded with water. Amateurs covered this gap with a specially cut rubber strip. The brass bushing of the rubber impeller of the cooling pump had a perfectly smooth cylindrical surface to which the rubber was welded. This caused an overly “clamped” impeller to rotate on the hub, causing the cooling system to fail. This drawback was eliminated by making three threaded holes in the impeller between the blades and additional fastening of rubber to the hub with three screws.

The lower crankshaft trunnion and seals were poorly protected from the mixture of exhaust gases and water leaving the cooling system, which gradually led to water penetration into the crankcase, poor starting and corrosion of the lower main bearing. This unpleasant design flaw was especially affected when operating in sea water. To combat this phenomenon, the owners installed partitions in the deadwood (similar to the Veterkov design), or, more difficult, a special threaded sleeve that protects the cuffs.

In recent years, Neptune has been produced in two modifications - with conventional and electronic contactless ignition. The latter option is a little more expensive, but preferable because The outboard motor is subject to high humidity, and it is not easy to start a motor with damp contacts. Motors "Neptune", according to reviews of most water workers, significantly outperform motors "Vortex" in terms of reliability, efficiency, and ease of use. Refinement of "Neptune" is simpler and less laborious.

The motor has a water-cooled two-cylinder two-stroke engine. The motor is designed for installation on motorboats weighing at least 130 kg with a transom height of not more than 405 mm and can be operated in water bodies at a depth of at least 0.8 m. To protect the transom and motor from damage when hitting underwater obstacles, a special device is provided for tilting the motor back. The reversible propeller drive provides forward and reverse propulsion of the vessel, and also allows the engine to idle.The outboard motor fuel tank is made portable with a quick-detachable cover and can be placed anywhere on the ship. The motor is cooled by a water pump. The power supply for the lighting network and the ship's distinctive lights can be carried out via the plug connector from the wires of the Magdino lighting coils. The motor is equipped with attachment points for remote control of gas and ship steering. The presence of a 6-point motor suspension on rubber shock absorbers provides low vibration of the vessel, easy motor control. Image - DIY repair of boat motors neptune 23

Motor "Neptune-23" consists of the following main units and systems: motor head, pallet, stern tube, cooling system, propeller drive, suspension, engine power system.

Engine type: Two-stroke carburetor
Displacement (2 cylinders): 346 cm3.
Cylinder bore: 61.75mm
Piston stroke: 58mm
Compression ratio: geometric: 9.25 effective: 6.5
Maximum power: 23 hp
Crankshaft speed at maximum power: 5500 ± 100 (5000 + 100) * rpm
Fuel consumption per hour at maximum power: 8.5 (8.7) kg / h
Fuel tank capacity: 20 l.
Dry weight (without fuel mixture in the power supply system, lubrication in the gearbox, fuel tank with a hose,
tools and spare parts): 44 kg
Ignition type: Double spark magdino MN-1
Candle type: SI-12RT
Normal gap in breakers: 0.3-0.35 mm
Lighting: From magdino, constant (alternating) current 12 V, 40 W
Carburetor: K65L (K36L)
Fuel: A mixture of A-76 GOST 2084-77 gasoline with MG-8A oil TU 38.101135-88, M-8V GOST 10541-78 in a volume ratio of 20: 1 or M-12TP oil TU 38.401-58-28-91, MGD -14MTU 38.101.930-87 in a volume ratio of 40: 1.
Valve timing: blowdown 121 °, exhaust 152 °
Propeller drive lubrication: Transmission oil TAD-17I GOST 23652-79 or MS-20 GOST 21743-76, filling volume 150 ml.
Gear ratio to propeller: 15:26
Screw diameter: 230mm
Screw pitch: 280mm

1 - tube 16.02.50121;
2 - overwhelming resistance A14SU with a screen, 00087359405;
3 - spark plug SI-12RT, 000901832046;
4 - block head cover 16.11.000.02;
5 - screw 3157A-6-12, 8.2.3157.06012.2;
6 - nut 3301A-8, 8.2.3301.08000.2;
7 - spring washer 865G0,5,8.0.6402.08000.5, GOST 6402-70;
8 - washer 16.02.40075;
9 - gasket 16.02.50063;
10 - complete engine 11/16. cylinder head 16.11.000.20;
11 - block head gasket 16.02.594.00;
12 - hairpin * 3251A-8-64C, 8.2.3251.08064.2;
13 - terminal block 16.00.034.00;
14 - screw 3157-3-20, 8.2.3157.03020.2;
15 - right branch pipe 11.16.000.03;
16 - branch pipe gasket 16.02.50064;
17 - shield of the branch pipe 16.11.000.21;
18 - nut 3301A6, 8.2.3301.06000.2;
19 - spring washer 665G0.5 GOST 6402-70; 8.0.6402.06000.5;
20 - washer 6.12.04.026 GOST 11371-68, 8.11371.061.20.2;
21 - bracket 16.02.60015;
22 - hairpin * 3251A-6-38, 8.2.3251.06038.1;
23 - the block of cylinders (complete) 11.16.101.00;
24 - washer 5.04.026 GOST 11371-68, 8.11371.05100.2;
25 - screw 3157A-5-16, 8.2.3157.05016.2;
26 - clamp 16.02.60027;
27 - left branch pipe 11.16.000.05;
28 - shield of the branch pipe 16.11.000.05;
29 - branch pipe gasket 16.02.50065;
30 - screw 3041A-6-24, 8.2.3041.06024.2;
31 - see pos. nineteen;
32 - TLM transformer (versions 1 and 2), 000873317130;
33 - see pos. one;
34 - wire * PVV GOST 14867-69 (l = 120 and l = 170 mm); 000944615000;
35 - sealing ring 1950A-14-20, 000908112000.

The specific mass of the motor is 2.58 kg / kW (1.9 kg / hp); liter power - 49 kW / l (6.5 hp / l.); specific fuel consumption - 516 g / kW / hour (380 g / hp / hour). These characteristics are close to the values of the corresponding parameters of the most widespread outboard motor in our country "Whirlwind-30", and the liter capacity of "Neptune" is 3.7 kW / l higher.
Fig. 103 shows the external characteristic of the Neptune-23 motor - the dependence of the effective power Ne, on the crankshaft rotation speed, n.

The propulsive qualities of the motor can characterize the results of tests carried out in the TsAGI experimental pool (Fig. 104) with three propellers. During these tests, the effective propeller stop, Pe (stop minus the resistance of the underwater part of the motor) was measured at constant speeds of the towing carriage and fully open throttle valve, i.e. at the maximum attainable speed for a given speed of rotation of the crankshaft of the engine, which allows the propeller to develop.

The tests were carried out when the propeller axis was immersed at hs = 168 mm (the motorboat transom height was 400 mm). In the speed range from 0 to 15 km / h, the immersion was increased to 268 mm to reduce the suction of atmospheric air to the propeller blades. From Fig. 104 shows that the polished screws with a pitch of 0.3; 0.28 and 0.25 m, without exceeding the nominal speed of the engine crankshaft, make it possible to obtain speeds of 44, 34 and 24 km / h, respectively. At speeds up to 20-25 km / h, which correspond to heavily loaded boats, the cargo ("white") propeller from the "Moscow-25" engine has an advantage in the stop.

The most suitable for relatively light motorboats with an average load, such as the Kazanka with four people on board, is the 0.23 × 0.28 propeller, which is supplied with the Neptune-23 motor as the main one. The optimum speed with this propeller is 30 - 34 km / h. The second standard propeller 0.24 x 0.30 allows "Kazanka" with one driver to move at a speed of up to 40 km / h, but at high speeds the emphasis of this propeller is also significantly reduced.

A propeller with a diameter and pitch equal to 0.229 m turned out to be the most effective for displacement or moving in a transient mode of heavy planing boats in the speed range from 0 to 22 km / h. The thrust of this propeller on the mooring lines is 23 kgf, and at a speed of 22 km / h it is 11 kgf higher than that of the propeller 0.226 x 0.250 m.only the gearbox did not move on the motor.New repair pistons / rings, honing of cylinders, seated head under the 95th, replacement of all oil seals and bearings, revision of the intake, carburetor K-68 with IZH Planet-5 with a starting device. Electronic ignition (now there is a circuit from Dmitry22). Removed all gaps in the tiller, magneto and carburetor drive. Everything turns easily, does not backlash. A baffle plate is installed in the leg. The impeller of the pump has been improved - three screws are screwed through the rubber into the hub, so as not to crank. Everything is primed and painted, the bonnet seal is made of the VAZ-2108 trunk seal, the bonnet obessumka.
RPMs of XX - 900-1000 have been set for the time being; While without load on the running-in mixture in the barrel, then run in the water.
Starts up easily, almost always the first time.Video Boat motor Neptune-23 after assembly and refinement of the channel Valeriy AnatolievichHello everyone, I decided to capitalize my Neptune 23, so that I will run a foreign car for a couple of seasons later.
And together with the capital, I decided to slightly modify the cylinder head, and the channels in the cylinders, in general, I refined everything, I ordered 2p pistons. (of course piston casting, the pistons are not factory-made but cooperative, but there was no choice since the original is almost impossible to find), the pistons were processed from the inside and leveled by weight on electronic scales, leveled by the volume of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head (the difference was 1.5 cubic meters .cm I think this is a lot for a 350 cc motor.
Picked up Japanese bearings and seals on the knee shaft.
The motor was assembled carefully observing all thermal clearances in cleanliness and, just in case, everything is on the sealant.
The motor did not start right away, but after long attempts it started to work and very steadily.
I tried electronic ignition, but I did not like it, it starts up normally and at idle it does not hold the load in general, when the reverse is turned on, it stalls immediately. I had to leave the contact on it, it starts easier and does not stall when the reverse is turned on.It seems to me that the motor is noisy, and twitches (as if intermittently that on the contact that on the electronic ignition only on the electronic one twitches even more), I have never heard how the new Neptune works, I have such a motor in my city and from I can still eat a couple of forces, before the thorough repair it worked much noisier.
External reference
External reference Message devis » 21.05.2013 12:05 Image - DIY repair of boat motors neptune 23

Message Valery » 21.05.2013 12:25

After running-in, the precision machine will have to work quieter, and added a double dose of oil to gasoline for the duration of the running-in?

I also have a motor running noisily on my motorcycle - it is the motor, not the exhaust, although the mileage is bullshit, but this is a feature of this model.

Video (click to play).

It is difficult of course to judge without seeing or hearing, but judging by the story - you know a lot. 😎

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DIY boat motor repair Neptune 23

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Author Topic: Tuning 2-stroke outboard motors Neptune-23 (Read 49032 times)

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Roman * 02 Mar 2004

Author Topic: Tuning 2-stroke outboard motors Neptune-23 (Read 49032 times)