DIY repair of m 412

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of m 412 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Content

1 Engine repair: Moskvich - 412, 2138, 2140, 1412, 214122, 214123; IZH - 412, 1251, 2126, 2715, 2717: A Practical Guide.
2 Engine repair: Moskvich - 412, 2138, 2140, 1412, 214122, 214123; IZH - 412, 1251, 2126, 2715, 2717: A Practical Guide.

I would say it does not go, but straight down sideways))))

It was possible and in detail, I'm ready and two hours to watch how much the piston cost, where is the container from under the oil, the pressure after assembly. When you assemble the engine yourself, you are interested in every little thing. not every day this is done. And so for that. Thank you.

you haven't had a video for a long time

increase the quality of the video, nothing is visible on the most interesting)

Maybe you broke the rings, on the shoulder from the wear on the top of the liner, during the removal of the pistons? I doubt that with such rings there would be a compression of 10.

Classwork! I still want to get into my engine, but I have a Volvo 240 and 1 repair request for it costs 5 sput (something about $ 80). Therefore, while I ride like this.

Norm. Looked at 🙂 Like put 🙂 Off topic: Regarding the Lambdas from the last video. I did it myself, I traveled for 3 months. Then I looked at your vidosik. The only thing I forgot was to insert a diode into the circuit. But it works like that :). Checks don't pop out. Powered by Toyota Sequoia.

Why didn't you get 1.7 or 1.8?

What rings did you put on?

In the garage as in the ass Negro BLA)))

Until what time on the first 60 km / h?

greased connecting rod bearings))) and drove 4500 km)))

why is 2141 overheating? the radiator is missing?

Video (click to play).

Well done. When I was making my engine, I put thin copper rings, I had to sort it out again. By the way, do you plan to switch to mono injection?

I want a compression ratio of 13 for gas, mill the head by 2 mm, it will not be very cool for a Muscovite.

Lty D tell me which company did you have rings that burst and what new ones did you put on?

Suprotek has become generally insolent lately. Negative reviews on purchased channels are simply removed and sold this urine to naive illiterate motorists. Use the herd effect. You, as the “right” surveyor, show you the real way to restore the engine.

Well, the motor was put in order, although it drove quite well, even worn out) What, by the way, is the quality for them now, how long does it all go? And how did the new valve stem seals behave by the way?

Very often, many people face problems when repairing an engine, especially for domestic cars. Take, for example, the native Moskvich 412. For some, it is already considered antiques, which is long overdue to hand over to the museum, but there are those who persistently drive this a wonderful car. But even with this high-quality transport, problems can arise, for example, when repairing the engine. So, as you already understood, in this article I will tell you in detail about the problems that you may encounter and, of course, I will offer options for eliminating these problems. !

So problem # 1: the engine won't start.

The distributor was not installed correctly (not by labels)
Dry plug (oil supply problem)

Try to turn on the ignition, and then start
Unscrew the plug and check what it is, if the plug is dry, the problem may be the wrong fuel supply.
Check if the ignition was installed correctly.To carry out the check, simply remove the valve cover and check the alignment of the marks
And more about fuel: in order to properly check its supply, you need to remove the air filter from the fuel pump, and then press the throttle actuator. Now see if there is injection or not.

Problem # 2: Troits the engine

The valve oil seal is broken
Valves have not been adjusted correctly
The oil scraper ring is broken

Check the ignition
Tune the carburetor
Check fuel filter

Problem # 3: throwing candles

Poor quality candles
Valve valve stem seals problem

First of all, you need to see what throws the candle with:

Gasoline. In this case, hoof can remain on the candles.
Oil - Black oily build-up on the spark plugs in the combustion chamber.

If the candle is thrown with gasoline, then:

Perhaps all this is due to damage to the ignition system. This is the most common cause, so the solution to this problem is to check the ignition system.
Check if carburetor adjustment is broken
However, the best solution to eliminate this problem is to switch to the use of electronic ignition, which will significantly reduce the risk of such problems in the future.

Another option: throwing oil on the candle:

The valve stem seals may be broken, so if such a problem occurs, it is worth checking them first.
The piston is broken; it is because of it that the crankcase gases increase.

Because of all this, the oil separator does not withstand the load, and everything enters the combustion chamber, settling

plaque on the walls of the candles. The way out of the problem is this: check the piston.

So, if you are facing an engine repair in a Muscovite 412, then look through our article again, perhaps you will find some useful advice and recommendations.

Let me remind you that we have considered only the most common problems, but if you have another problem and the engine of the Muscovite 412

repairs are required, and you do not have special knowledge, and searches on the Internet have also been unsuccessful, I strongly recommend that you contact, if not for capital repair services, then at least for advice from an automobile workshop.

I apologize to the two subscribers who appeared after the first post, but the slow pace of work demotivated me to post about this topic. He worked only in the summer and mostly only on weekends.

1.5 years ago I wrote that I began to sort out the engine from the AZLK-2140. UZAM-412 was installed on them from the previous model. This engine was completely developed at MZMA, but the M10 from BMW was taken as a basis.

The main problem (reason for the repair) was the clutch. The bearing has crumbled. The engine went through for prevention / experience / cleaning.

Here the cylinder head cover is removed, we see the gas distribution mechanism.

On the right, a fan for cooling the radiator, rotating with the water pump.

Repairing Soviet cars is a very exciting process. This is really a Lego-type constructor, but of a different level.

Here the front covers are removed and the timing belt is visible, synchronizing the piston stroke with the opening and closing of the valves.

View from the other side + details removed.

It is held in place by these 10 long bolts, very tightly tightened. In this place, the main process of fuel combustion takes place, respectively, the mount must withstand a large load and be sealed, which is ensured by close to perfect coincidence of surfaces and a heat-resistant gasket.

This is what the head represents from the other side.

Valve, slightly soaked with oil? In a different state. The holes to the left of the valve are the spark plug hole.

Go ahead. Oil sump.

Just a rubber-padded sump that is usually filled with oil. From here it enters the system, here it flows down, here it accumulates during a long stay.

The pistons, of course. Usually they do not go beyond the border of the block, here they are removed and pulled out. Replaced the rings. These three grooves on the edge ensure the tightness of the combustible mixture, which pushes the piston during combustion on one side and oil, which on the other side lubricates the parts for less friction. In the event of oil leakage into the combustion chamber, oil consumption increases, exhaust gases smoke, carbon deposits form, and engine power is lost.

"There is no plant, no country, but it is in working order!"

This is a crankshaft that sets the stroke of the pistons with its rotation and one of the pistons is in place. Out of curiosity about the principle of work.

In fact, there is nothing more to disassemble. The engine is decomposed into components.
I will briefly make the assembly process in a separate post. I promise it will appear soon.

If you have any questions, I will try to answer.
Well, in conclusion ~~cat~~ Hedgehog. My cat went for a walk around the village, but such a guest crawled to the house.

If you have a desire to perform 412 Muscovite tuning, then you should get ready for a variety of problems. Those who are not afraid of them, who strive for this and are ready to disappear in the garage for several days, this task is quite within their power. So far, the main problem is the lack of parts for the car, which will have to be solved.

The lack of parts can be explained by the cessation of production of the model itself, so get ready for a long search for interchangeable units and parts. The price tag for original spare parts is quite high. In order to solve the problem, it is worth using special computer software.

By choosing a reference point, some of the problems will disappear immediately: you will see that the usual enhancement of the engine will definitely give a good result. In order to increase the power, the torque is brought almost to the limit by installing a turbine or mounting a drive supercharger.

Moskvich 412 tuning with your own hands implies interchangeability, therefore it is worth getting ready to use the sleeves and crankshaft of other domestic cars.

In order to increase the volume of the engine, they do the usual task: they remove the block heads, thereby increasing the level of compression inside the cylinders, which will give a small increase in the working volume.

It is also worth paying attention to the camshaft.

You can also perform chip tuning of the Moskvich 412 engine. Metamorphoses of the electronic control unit will occur if you put four snowmobile carburetors on your car. This option will reduce the idle operation of the engine to four hundred revolutions. The noise level will decrease accordingly. If everything is done at the proper level, the increase in turnover will reach five and a half thousand.

In order for the update to make sense, the chassis is also being modernized. The increase in power must be controlled while the vehicle is in transit. This refers to the roll and roll of the vehicle when driving. Eliminate the problem of shearing springs and installing high quality low profile rubber.

The bridge is also important to note. The stock variation was not finalized during design. Alas, the reinforcement of the bridge is impossible: it is best to replace it with a new stabilizer from a vehicle that is suitable in terms of characteristics.

It is best to install an independent suspension with a rear gear. In this case, the resistance during acceleration will increase, but at the same time, constructive changes will be required. You will need to change the brakes to a drum version, with a vacuum-type booster.

The car should have a good sound, not like a roar: you will need to install a sports exhaust system. It is also worth tackling the steering: you cannot leave the old steering wheel.

This will require a complete analysis of the cabin. In order to have an idea about this, it is worth watching the video.

So that you can understand for yourself whether you will master the planned tasks, below is an example of a Moskvich tuning photo. The car enthusiast bought the above-mentioned car in a terrible state and proceeded to rework it.

The checkpoint was taken from the Chevrolet Niva;
the engine is lightened by two kilograms and counterweights are supplied;
the skirts and the piston crown were cut off by two millimeters;
pistons from the Volga with spraying;
the head was filed;
bored channels for the passage of standard elements in full length;
springs from a Zhiguli, classic;
washers, two millimeters under the springs;
reduced weight of the valve disc;
chamfer thirty degrees;
channel guides cut off;
the gear is cut;
a flywheel of four kilograms;
delivered two horizontal forties.

The engine upgrade is complete.The volume is 1.9 liters, the power reaches one hundred and twenty-five horsepower. In order to simplify the repair, you should pay attention to the photos.

Sadly, but the Soviet auto industry did not want to deal with the noise of the interior.

Therefore, this problem is solved independently. Tuning provides for such an opportunity so that later you can drive without noise, at least relative.

Isolation from noise is considered a complex procedure. It is carried out with the following sequence:

space under the hood;
interiors;
luggage department.

The first step is to deal with the space under the hood

a whole sheet of sound-impermeable materials with a foil side and five millimeters thick is selected;
glued to the bottom of the hood;
fixed to the ribs of rigidity: at the corners, in the center, in the middle of each side.

How is the insulation of the panel separating the engine compartment from the passenger compartment carried out?

a similar material is bought as for the space under the hood, but with a thickness of 5 millimeters;
washed out with a solvent, dried, and then the purchased material is glued with rubber glue. Before doing this work, you need to mark and cut everything so that in the lower part there is an overlap on the bottom in the region of twenty centimeters. On the sides, at least ten centimeters should go over the mud flaps;
proceed to dismantle the vacuum brake booster, the main clutch cylinder, as well as the gas pedal rod.

disassemble the upholstery;
the lower cavity is poured against a corrosive coating in order to reduce noise;
in the absence of stock sizing, do everything with their own hands;
the inner part of the door upholstery is sealed with foam rubber with a thickness of no more than five millimeters;
going to the door.

remove chairs and flooring;
cover the bottom with a corrosive solution and leave to dry;
lining felt or burlap.
under the rear seat, with the help of a console, another foam rubber sheet is laid, thus providing insulation from the gearbox, cardan and exhaust system.
collect salon.

first it is taken apart
glue the joints with a sealing tape, like the one used to insulate frames
a foam rubber sheet is laid under the torpedo
assemble. It is important not to forget about the mount. It will protect the torpedo from loosening. It is important to glue each plastic element included in the decorative interior trim.

the upholstery is disassembled
old noise insulation is dismantled
a new sheet is glued tightly. On top of the foam rubber of a small thickness.
new headlining is being assembled.

the upholstery is disassembled;
the bottom is washed, dried, glued, similar work is carried out with the internal elements of the wings;
lay with foam rubber from two to five centimeters in thickness;
a centimeter foam rubber is glued to the back wall;

Similar actions are performed with the trunk lid, or replaced with dark felt.

You can complete all tasks on your own in one day, if a family member wants to help you, you have a garage with a pit and the right one.

You can also take a closer look at the modified carburetor:

jets are selected, taking into account the features of the engine, replace the bottom, from the VAZ 2107, however, the diameter of the second choke should be 2.7 centimeters.
the thrust of opening the throttle is digested so that it works faster.
install the camshaft.

Now you can safely ride a car for six months. After that, the standard piston group and the crankshaft are replaced with solutions with a longer stroke. If you do all this, you get a 1.8-liter engine.

If you need to install an injector, you should start looking for a suitable solution. It can have its own special injection system: with long intake pipes that cover the fuel rail and injectors, a unique control system that has an air flow sensor and another one for the crankshaft on the flywheel.

If you are ready to carry out work on your own, including improving the dashboard of the car in question, then it is worth purchasing scales in the appropriate store. Do not worry: any dismantling will be extremely easy: you need not to unbend the bezel at full strength, just one third is enough. This distance is optimal so that the general white backlighting can be performed.

Everything is smeared with a stroke, with the exception of divisions and digital designations. A couple of additional compact LEDs are placed on the speedometer, and the standard light bulb is replaced with one whole LED.

Your first problem may be related to the mismatch of the receiver, vacuum brake booster. But if you modify the adapter from the Moskvich kit: it will need to be reduced a couple of times and then put the receiver back.

The fuel receiver can be taken from the Volga, and then the tubes can be reduced. If you want, you can replace stock assemblies and elements with solutions from the Volga: an air damper throttle, nozzles, suspension springs. So you need to take the sensor responsible for turning on the fan. At a maintenance service where you want to carry out chip tuning, everyone will be surprised: the moment will be in the region of one hundred and forty-five Newtons per meter.

Where do chip tuning begin?

You will need a copper brake cylinder in one copy, a tee from the brake pipes, six nuts of the tenth size. All this is collected into one holistic mechanism:

An outdated amplifier is being removed. Wipe down the details.

Measure the distance of the old amplifier from the point of contact of the vacuum solution to the fork engaging the pedal. You need to free yourself from this fork. Turn it on the rod from the replacement solution, keeping the distance, preliminary measuring the length to the spacer. Each nut is tightened. The structure is inserted back, the nuts are attached to the pedal.

A small length tube, which was already mentioned earlier, is screwed into the fitting, located as far as possible from the amplifier, and a tee is screwed onto the other fitting.

Bending outdated tubes for a brand new cylinder.

A pair of tubes, farthest from the amplifier, are screwed into the tee, but the third, closest to the vacuum, is screwed into the fitting, which is close to the amplifier. It is worth remembering to put a vacuum hose on the amplifier. All that remains is to fill in fresh brake fluid and improve the system as such. All this can be done in 60 minutes.

Engine repair: Moskvich - 412, 2138, 2140, 1412, 214122, 214123; IZH - 412, 1251, 2126, 2715, 2717: A Practical Guide.

This manual deals with the repair of car engines.
Moskvich and IZH, their diagnostics, restoration by means of repair.
The manual describes the design of various motors, outlines
sequentially and in detail assembly and disassembly operations, repair and
adjustment operations, repair and adjustment work on engines.

I would say it does not go, but straight down sideways))))

you haven't had a video for a long time

increase the quality of the video, nothing is visible on the most interesting)

Maybe you broke the rings, on the shoulder from the wear on the top of the liner, during the removal of the pistons? I doubt that with such rings there would be a compression of 10.

Classwork! I still want to get into my engine, but I have a Volvo 240 and 1 repair request for it costs 5 sput (which is about $ 80). Therefore, while I ride like this.

Why didn't you get 1.7 or 1.8?

What rings did you put on?

In the garage as in the ass Negro BLA)))

Until what time on the first 60 km / h?

I lubricated the connecting rod bearings))) and drove 4500 km)))

why is 2141 overheating? the radiator is missing?

Well done. When I was making my engine, I put thin copper rings, I had to sort it out again. By the way, do you plan to switch to mono injection?

I want a compression ratio of 13 for gas, mill the head by 2 mm, it will not be very cool for a Muscovite.

Lty D tell me which company did you have rings that burst and what new ones did you put on?

So problem # 1: the engine won't start.

The distributor was not installed correctly (not by labels)
Dry plug (oil supply problem)

Try to turn on the ignition, and then start
Unscrew the plug and check what it is, if the plug is dry, the problem may be the wrong fuel supply.
Check if the ignition was installed correctly.To carry out the check, simply remove the valve cover and check the alignment of the marks
And more about fuel: in order to properly check its supply, you need to remove the air filter from the fuel pump, and then press the throttle actuator. Now see if there is injection or not.

Problem # 2: Troits the engine

The valve oil seal is broken
Valves have not been adjusted correctly
The oil scraper ring is broken

Check the ignition
Tune the carburetor
Check fuel filter

Problem # 3: throwing candles

Poor quality candles
Valve valve stem seals problem

First of all, you need to see what throws the candle with:

Gasoline. In this case, hoof can remain on the candles.
Oil - Black oily build-up on the spark plugs in the combustion chamber.

If the candle is thrown with gasoline, then:

Perhaps all this is due to damage to the ignition system. This is the most common cause, so the solution to this problem is to check the ignition system.
Check if carburetor adjustment is broken
However, the best solution to eliminate this problem is to switch to the use of electronic ignition, which will significantly reduce the risk of such problems in the future.

Another option: throwing oil on the candle:

The valve stem seals may be broken, so if such a problem occurs, it is worth checking them first.
The piston is broken; it is because of it that the crankcase gases increase.

Because of all this, the oil separator does not withstand the load, and everything enters the combustion chamber, settling

plaque on the walls of the candles. The way out of the problem is this: check the piston.

So, if you are facing an engine repair in a Moskvich 412, then look through our article again, perhaps you will find some useful tips and recommendations.

Let me remind you that we have considered only the most common problems, but if you have another problem and the engine of the Muscovite 412

Engine repair: Moskvich - 412, 2138, 2140, 1412, 214122, 214123; IZH - 412, 1251, 2126, 2715, 2717: A Practical Guide.

The car is equipped with a four-speed Transmission with four gears forward and one reverse.
All gears of the gearbox have oblique teeth except for reverse gears 16 and 45 (Fig. 1) and the corresponding rim of the block of intermediate gears. The box is equipped with synchronizers for first, second, third and fourth gears.

The input shaft 1 and the gears of the first 21, the second 15, the third 13 gears are in constant meshing with the block 40 of the countershaft gears. The driven reverse gear 16 moves freely along the splines of the hub 17. The gears of the first, second and third gears are mounted on the secondary shaft on steel bushings fixed relative to the shaft 26. A bronze bushing is pressed into the reverse idler gear.
The gearshift mechanism is mounted on the side cover. The switch 12 gears (Fig. 2) using the lever 6 can be set in three positions: engaging the first and second gears, engaging the third and fourth gears, engaging reverse gear, while simultaneously acting on the spring-loaded reverse stop 17.

In the crankcase 53 (see Fig. 1), two sliding forks for shifting forward gears are installed on a fixed rod 51. The reverse gear fork 55 is located on the cross shaft 54 of the lever.
The steel bracket 36 of the rear engine mount is located in the middle of the extension 30.
The box is controlled by the lever 6 (Fig. 3), mounted on the floor-mounted gearbox control mechanism. The gearbox control mechanism has two output levers 23 and 24 (Fig. 4), connected by rods with the levers of the shift mechanism mounted on the side cover of the gearbox.

Rice. 5. Removing the gearbox from the car (bottom view, rear view):
1 - drain plug; 2 - cross member of the rear engine support; 3 - bolts for fastening the cross member to the base of the body; 4 - pull-back spring; 5 - bolts of fastening of a cushion of a back support

Pressing out the axle begins with a short mandrel 2 from the side of the front end of the crankcase. The hollow mandrel 1 is guided behind the short mandrel and completely inserted into the hole of the gear block. In the process of work, make sure that the mandrels used do not have nicks. It is allowed to use one mandrel of the same length as the hollow one, but without frames;
- turn the extension around its longitudinal axis so as to open access to the rod 51 (see Fig. 1) of the gear shift forks;
- unscrew the screw 35 (to unscrew the screw, you need to apply increased force, since the screw head is nailed). Use a punch to knock out the guide rod of the gear shift forks from the crankcase. To facilitate this operation, after moving the rod by about 12 mm, turn it with a bit by 90 degrees so that the retainer balls do not fall into the rod holes, then remove both forks and the retainer balls and their springs that have fallen out of the forks from the crankcase;
- remove the extension with the secondary shaft assembly from the crankcase, for which first lower the gear block of the intermediate shaft (assembled with a hollow mandrel) until it stops in the bottom of the crankcase;
- Press out the input shaft from the crankcase, inflicting light hammer blows on the end face of its gear rim through a bronze mandrel resting on the rim.

Disassemble the extension cord and the secondary hall in the following order:
- unscrew the bolt fastening the speedometer drive and, turning the gearbox, remove it from the extension;
- install the secondary shaft 5 (see Fig. 8) with its rear end into the fixed glass and unscrew the end nut, having previously unbent the lock washer;
- remove the clutch with the hub for engaging the third and fourth gears from the secondary shaft;
- install the puller legs between gears 4 and 5.
If there is no puller, perform this operation using two screwdrivers, which should be inserted between gears 3 and 4;

- use the same puller to remove the hub of the reverse gear 5. This operation can also be performed with two screwdrivers inserted, like the puller, into the space between the end of the extension 9 and the gear of the first gear 7. At the same time, take measures to prevent deformation of the end of the extension, which can be achieved using wide screwdrivers or with shims;
- remove the thrust washer of the secondary shaft middle bearing with pliers and lightly hitting a wooden block into the rear end of the secondary shaft, knock the shaft together with the bearing out of the extension;
- remove the retaining ring from the output shaft, and then the drive gear of the speedometer drive. Next, by striking a wooden rack on the secondary shaft, knock out the gear retaining ball from the shaft hole;
- install the secondary shaft with its front end on a wooden block and with the help of pipes, leaning against the inner ring of the bearing, press the bearing 8 (Fig. 9) from the secondary shaft 10;
- Press out the oil seals from the tail section of the extension. If the oil seals are to be replaced, they can be removed with a screwdriver.

Disassemble the gearshift mechanism in the following order:
- Carefully knock out pin 4 (Fig. 2), having previously uncoupled and removed the nut, and remove the lever 6;
- unscrew the screws fastening the bracket 5. Remove the bracket and take out the stop 17 with springs. If there are shims between the reverse stop and the bracket plate, then when assembling the mechanism, be sure to put all the shims in place;
- unscrew the nut and use a copper drift to knock the wedge out of the gear lever and remove the lever;
- unbending the stopper 2, unscrew the nuts 3 and remove the bracket 4 with the stop for switching reverse;
- remove the lock 14 (see Fig. 2) with the gear selector 12 from the cover and remove the oil seal 13 from the annular groove of the bushing.

Before inspecting the parts, rinse in kerosene or gasoline, clean from deposits and grease residues. Clean the lubrication and balancing holes in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears and the input shaft, as well as the oil passage at the rear of the extension (near the bushings).
When determining the suitability of parts for further operation, follow the recommendations of Table 13, if necessary - the reference data of Table 12, as well as the instructions below for the selection of locking rings for the gear cones.

The sequence of tightening the bolts and nuts of the studs of the main bearing caps

Installing the rear oil seal cover on engines 331, 3317 and 3313 using a mandrel

Checking the protrusion of the cylinder liner end over the plane of the engine block model 331, 3317 and 3313

The relative position of the piston ring locks before installing the piston in the liner

Before assembling the engine, you must perform the following steps:

Before installing the cylinder head assembly, you must perform the following steps:

For removing the engine with clutch and gearbox park the vehicle over a viewing ditch so that the engine is under a hoist or other lifting device.

Remove the engine in the following order:
1. Remove the engine hood.
2. Open the heater tap on the water pump cover, unscrew the drain plugs on the radiator and engine block, and drain the coolant.
Z.Unscrew the drain plugs in the engine oil sump and in the gearbox housing and drain the oil.
4. Disconnect the starter wire lugs from the battery post.
5. Remove the radiator of the cooling system.
Further work on removing the engine from the car chassis should be performed alternately on each side (left, right and bottom).

1. Disconnect the wires from the generator, from the starter, the ground wire from the body at the rear of the engine, the wire from the battery post to the generator strip, and the wire from the coolant temperature sensor in the water jacket outlet.
2. Remove the air filter and crankcase ventilation hose.
H. Disconnect the throttle actuator rod and the choke actuator cable from the carburetor levers.
4. Disconnect the fuel tank pipe from the petrol pump.
5. Disconnect the heater inlet and outlet hoses.
6. Disconnect the heater tap control cable.
7. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the engine intake manifold.

1. Disconnect the oil pressure sensor wire.
2. Disconnect the low voltage wire from the coil to the ignition distributor.
H. Disconnect the high voltage wire from the coil to the ignition distributor.

Front disassembling engine thoroughly clean from dirt and oil and rinse it. For the convenience of disassembling and assembling the engine, use the assembly stand.
To install the engine removed from the car on the assembly stand, do the following:
- unscrew the nuts of the alternator mounting bolts, remove the alternator and fan belt;
- unscrew the nuts and remove the front engine mounting brackets;
- put a special mounting bracket instead of the left engine mounting bracket and secure it with nuts on three block studs;
- install the motor with the bracket on the mounting stand.

For removing the cylinder head, do the following:
- unscrew the seven nuts of the studs securing the cylinder head cover and remove the cover and high voltage wires from the ignition distributor to the spark plugs;
- turn the crankshaft clockwise until the piston of the first cylinder is at the top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Vm mark on the crankshaft pulley, aligned with the point of the dowel pin on the bottom cover of the timing drive sprockets.

Note. The first mark (in the direction of rotation of the crankshaft) is used when setting the ignition timing, and the second mark corresponds to the top dead center (TDC).

- unscrew the seven bolts securing the upper valve cover and remove the cover.
- unscrew and unscrew the four bolts securing the driven sprocket of the timing drive and remove the sprocket from the shaft without disconnecting it from the chain. To prevent the chain from jumping off the teeth of the sprocket, tie it together with the chain with a wire.

With the chain drive disconnected, but the head has not yet been removed from the cylinder block, do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft in any direction, even at the smallest angle. Failure to do so will damage the valve head against the pistons.
- unscrew 10 nuts securing the block head and remove it.
When the head is removed, do not turn the crankshaft, as friction of the rings against the mirror may cause the cylinder liners to rise, and scale or corrosion products of the cylinder block will get under the persistent bottom end of the liner, which will lead to a breakdown of the liner seal.
- remove the head gasket.

After checking and replacing damaged and worn parts, install and attach the cylinder head to the block in the reverse order. Wherein:
- carefully inspect the cylinder head gasket and the rubber-cork gasket of the valve cover. Replace damaged or heavily crimped gaskets;
- for uniform compression over the entire surface of the gasket and to prevent deformations of the block, tighten the nuts of the head studs in a certain sequence. Perform the final tightening of the cylinder head nuts with a torque wrench, and the tightening torque should be 90-100 Nm (9.0-10.0 kgf • m).

However, before installing on the upper end plane of the cylinder block with the gasket laid on it, the block head, assembled in advance with the valve mechanism and the camshaft, pre-set the relative angular position of the crankshaft and camshaft. To do this, making sure that the preliminary installation of the piston of the first cylinder in the vm..t is preserved. At the end of the compression stroke, rotate the camshaft until the risk on the camshaft flange (see fig.)

will not install against the middle of the tide on the front camshaft support. Then place the cylinder head on the cylinder block and secure it.

Tuning Moskvich as a phrase can shock many, basically, there will be thoughts like “no matter how much you dress up a donkey, he will not become a horse anyway”. But for many, tuning is a hobby or an occupation that pleases the soul, in addition, the Moskvich 412 is a legendary car and simple in design, it can be very interesting to tune it. For those who do tuning Moskvich 412, there are tons of opportunities to make a really interesting copy out of a car.

The Moskvich 412 is known for the fact that a special motor is installed in it, which showed itself on a good side during races in the USSR. A car with this engine once set records, took part in the rally and took first places. The motor has 8 valves, at that time it was strong.

But today the power characteristics of the Moskvich 412 do not correspond to technical progress, and this is understandable, therefore the engine, and the whole car, simply needs restyling. Even back in 1976, the first tuning of the Moskvich was made by 412 British craftsmen, after which the car received 148 hp. With. power.

For this, it was necessary to modernize the cylinder head, change the shape of the gas distribution and make other improvements in the engine.

To make the Moskvich drive better, it makes sense to change the camshaft. Further, to increase power, you need to install 4 carburetors. This will keep the motor quieter and more responsive.

V tuning the engine Moskvich 412 it is important to choose the right material from which the adapter flange plates will be made. It is also important to carry out the relative position of the flaps, correctly adjust the intake manifold. To further increase the power, you need to install a charger, and before that you need to make an intake tract and place it in the body between the flaps and the main brake cylinder with a vacuum cleaner.

Then you need to work on the spider, for this you need to improve the standard piston group, and in general you will have to work hard. It is much easier to simply install another engine in Moskvich, for example, Toyota's 3-liter 2JZ-GE engine is perfect.

When tuning the engine, you can install turbocharging, which will provide compressed air to the cylinders, which will also increase power. This scheme uses the energy of the exhaust gases. More fuel is pumped into the cylinders, which increases power. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the air flow, the turbine will do this.

And the exhaust gases will be engaged in the fact that they will rotate the turbine impeller, after which the compressor blades will be set in motion. The compressor is responsible for pumping air into the cylinders. Since the air enters the cylinders under pressure, the result is that the cylinders receive a large amount of air.

Of course, a turbine engine will have more power than a naturally aspirated engine. As already mentioned, the more air enters, the more fuel is burned, therefore the engine power increases significantly.

But for those for whom this increase in power is not enough, there is an opportunity to get even more power, for this it is necessary to work on increasing the torque indicator.

To achieve this goal, the drive blower must be modified. Improve the crankshaft, as well as increase the engine size. To increase the volume by about 300 cubic meters, you just need to remove the cylinder head, this will increase the compression level in the cylinders to 8.4 units.

On this tuning engine Moskvich 412 it still ends, then you can do such a thing as chip tuning, which will affect the electronic control unit, especially if you install, as mentioned above, 4 carburetors, they can be borrowed from a snowmobile.

Such transformations will reduce the noise level, because the engine idling will occur at 400 rpm, and as for the maximum number of revolutions, this figure will increase to 5500 rpm. Yes, this is all serious work, but if everything is done correctly, the Moskvich 412 will become more maneuverable, accelerate faster, and feel more confident in the stream when overtaking.

After forcing the engine, the car will demonstrate excellent performance when driving. The car will become obedient and will bring more joy and pleasure to the driver. The direct-flow breaker brings special pleasure, thanks to which the sound from the car is simply amazing, all drivers and pedestrians around will look around and remain in shock for a long time from what a "dangerous" car it is.

It will be difficult to do the tuning of the Moskvich 412 engine with your own hands, but if you have knowledge and experience, then everything will work out. And if there is no experience and knowledge, then you just need to contact the professionals, it is especially good to find acquaintances or friends who understand cars and tuning, they will always be able to work on your standard Moskvich on favorable terms.

Tuning a car will require a considerable amount of tools and skills. Generally speaking, tuning a car will require a significant investment in terms of time and finances, but with the proper patience, you can make a masterpiece out of an old car, bypassing possible problems and difficulties, without losing enthusiasm.

If you contact a tuning studio, you don't have to worry about possible difficulties in terms of mechanics, because specialists will take care of all these questions, and you can even get a guarantee that the car after tuning will easily drive even 100,000 km.

But as you know, technology is sometimes unpredictable, so unforeseen situations may occur, and the car may fail, so it is also important to understand how the car works in general terms, to know where the carburetor, engine, battery, etc. are located. And at least to understand itself which of the nodes is out of order.

The Moskvich 412 itself has a fairly reliable design and excellent features, despite the fact that it has not been produced for a long time. Nevertheless, spare parts for this car can be found to this day, and during disassembly you can also easily find the necessary part if necessary.

The car looks, to put it mildly, old-fashioned, still, this is a Soviet car, it is already over 30 years old, but there is no need to despair, even from such an old car you can make something fashionable and modern. First you have to work on the exterior, and then on the interior.

To improve the appearance of Moskvich, it will be necessary to install other bumpers, you can borrow them from more modern VAZs, or you can even take original tuning parts from some manufacturers. With new bumpers, the car will look noticeably cooler.

Those who have come across in Moskvich know that when the speed reaches more than 100 km / h, the car starts to drive slightly, especially if the road is slightly uneven. To remedy this situation, it is necessary to remove the bridge, install a more modern stabilizer, the same as on foreign cars.

Some people think that by doing tuning Moskvich 412 it is imperative to change the suspension and in some ways they are right, it must be independent with a gearbox in the rear. If the suspension is improved, the car will also feel more confident on the road, and even off-road, because there are springs in the Moskvich, which means that the car is simply created for driving over rough terrain.

After the car accelerates faster and feels confident on the road, the driver will often push the slippers to the floor, and if some unexpected obstacles suddenly appear on the road, stronger brakes will be required to prevent them. The standard brakes in Moskvich are drum brakes at the rear, and disc brakes at the front, so it is advisable to install disc brakes on the rear wheels, and even better if they are equipped with a vacuum booster. After this improvement in the brakes, driving such a car will be safer.

By the way, the gearbox is considered a very important unit in the car, and so, the standard Muscovite one has already outlived its own, it is noisy and not fast enough. Instead of the old box, you can put a VAZ 5-speed one. Even such a box will allow the car to go faster and it will become quieter.

In order for the sound of the car to bring joy and satisfaction, the exhaust system must be replaced - the standard one must be replaced with a sports one. Put forward flow, as the people say. Even if you just remove the resonator and put a pipe instead of a muffler, the sound will be like a supercar. The 8-valve motor gives a pleasant growl when the muffler is removed.

Further, you can still improve the appearance of the car with chrome parts such as mud flaps of the original shape, vinyl, various original designs or stickers. Of course, you can completely repaint the car in a different color, but this will require solving some difficulties and financial costs.

To make the car look interesting, you can also install an air intake on the roof or on the hood. The air intake is just a necessary element of the external tuning of the Moskvich 412. The wheels also need to be changed - install alloy wheels with expensive branded tires.

The better the tires, the better the car will handle, the more obedient on the road, and the softer the ride. So that the steering wheel does not hesitate at high speeds, it is necessary to do balancing.

To further improve the appearance of the car, it is necessary to install xenon, which, as you know, shines much brighter than conventional headlights. Xenon headlights have such an interesting property as glow with a certain shade. Various colors can be selected such as blue, red, green, etc.

Very quickly, a car with xenon will be spotted on the road. And especially if xenon is installed on Moskvich, then it will be simply incredible, especially at night.

After the engine was improved, the suspension was moved and even the exhaust system began to sound better, you can go on to tuning the interior. To make the Moskvich at least feel like a sports car, you can install a sports steering wheel, which will make the interior of the car cooler, the 3-spoke steering wheel looks especially great.

Initially, noise isolation in the Moskvich 412 cabin is not good enough. Therefore, such a defect can be corrected and high-quality sound insulation in the car interior can be installed. Driving in a car will be more pleasant, because the cabin will not be noisy.

Sound insulation is installed even in the engine compartment to reduce engine noise. The main thing is that the soundproofing sheets are solid and contain high-quality soundproof material. The thickness of the foil should be approximately 5 mm.

These sheets must be glued to the hood, secured with self-tapping screws in order to hold securely. There should be no problems with soundproofing and all the work can be done in a day. Further, in the cabin, you can improve the dashboard of the Moskvich 412. To do this, you need to buy the desired instruments with a scale and install them in place of the standard dashboard.

To make the dashboard look effective and easy to read, you need to install 2 additional LED bulbs, replace the large base lamp with a large LED. Further in the cabin, you can change the upholstery to a better one. Since the factory is already seriously outdated.

Some interior elements can be repainted, for example, airbrushed. Choose a color to taste in order to highlight the characteristics of the owner and his car. It is advisable to polish and touch up many parts; for this you need to use an abrasive paste and special devices.

To feel more comfortable behind the wheel of a Moskvich 412, you can change the seats, there are many different options that will perfectly replace the standard Muscovite chairs.

No serious tuning is complete without quality music. The tape recorder can be installed under the torpedo. The speakers will easily fit on the dashboard as well as under the rear window. And a subwoofer can be easily installed in the trunk.

If everything is done beautifully, you will get a car that will look like a real masterpiece, which can still make many foreign cars at traffic lights.

And then a video with an interesting tuning option for Moskvich 412:

Video (click to play).