Do-it-yourself repair of the Makhachkala Euro aircraft unit

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Makhachkala EUR aircraft from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Please move the request to the moderators to the FAQ on the helmsman or to the section header.

This applies to the ESD produced by the Makhachkala plant Aviaagregat.
Kalina 2006 onwards

So I won the strumming and knocking in the EUR itself

... I took it off three times, for the first time in the summer I tightened a special nut with two holes, it was not enough for long, the bryakonie remained. The second time already this month I was shooting, I decided to make out the EUR more. I separated the halves and saw the whole mechanism with my own eyes. In the disassembled state, nothing knocks, as soon as I connect the halves - the knock appears again. As a result, I put more lubricant into the crankcase of the worm and put everything back together. It is winter now, and since the morning, while the car is cold, the EUR did not make any sounds, but as soon as the interior was warmed up, this drum roll began again. the grease just became softer and a backlash appeared. In general, this extraneous sound bothered me for no less than four years, I endured it. I was afraid to get into the EUR. But it was time to deal with the problem, and I shot it for the third time.

Next, I will describe the repair and rework process.

We will remove the steering column.

Disconnect the “-” battery terminal. The wheels are straight. In the cabin, remove the plastic around the steering column. We disconnect the electrical connectors of the ignition switch, immobilizer, disconnect two connectors from the EUR itself (large and next to it on the left, smaller), you also need to disconnect the connectors of the steering column switches of the wipers and turn signals and remove them, everything is simple there, disconnect the audio signal connector. Maybe he missed it, but in the end, all the connectors from the steering column need to be disconnected.
Next, at the bottom, with a 13-point head, unscrew the nut on the cardan in the middle, where there are no slots, but simply a flat part is connected to the steering shaft cardan, disconnect the cardan.
Now we unscrew the four nuts by 13 that secure the steering wheel. column to the body. Do not unscrew the last one to the end, this whole structure weighs 10-12 kg, so be careful, holding the bottom with your hands, unscrew the last nut and lower everything to the floor. Now you can take the steering column out of the car and disassemble it.

We put it all on the floor on the steering wheel.
First detach the bracket (4 x 13 bolts).
Next, mark the position of the gimbal and shaft with a marker and unscrew the nut by 13 and remove the gimbal.
Now, with a high head by 27, unscrew the large nut on the shaft.
It remains to unscrew the three bolts 13, which connect the two halves of the EUR.
The halves will begin to move slightly around each other.
Now you need carefully to separate them, for this we pry the upper half in several places with a flat and powerful screwdriver, only you cannot press on the ears of the fasteners (where there were three bolts) - the alloy is powder, you can break off the ears. We wiggle a little and the upper half should slide up and come off.
If everything went well, then we should then find a thin washer on the shaft near the plastic gear (sometimes it sticks to the bearing in the upper half)
As I found out empirically, this adjusting washer is responsible for the clearance at the point where the plastic gear and the EUR worm mesh. Over time, the gear wears out, is erased, the gap changes, backlash appears, hence the knocks and bryakony. I found a tin can at home, cut out a similar washer and put it under the factory one.

Video (click to play).

The thickness of the new washer is approximately 0.3 mm. Those. in the end, we got two washers: mine and the factory one. Collected the halves, secured with one bolt, began to twist and listen.and there were no knocks.
I was shocked and very happy. So, after all, there was wear and tear and the sound was due to it.
In general, I collected everything back, put it on the car and went to check it. I drove onto a section of the road with bad asphalt (like a comb) and here it is SILENCE. very, very quiet. I just didn't recognize the car. But I suffered for 4 years, thought and wondered how to defeat this disgusting knocking and strumming.
Yes, and the steering wheel has become heavier, more pleasant on the track, it seems like the feedback has increased.
I am very pleased with the work, I advise everyone.

We have a Lada Kalina car under repair, on which the EUR electric power steering does not work and shows error C1044, we will show how to diagnose and fix the problem with our own hands.

Our electric amplifier turned out to be produced by Makhachkala Aviaagregat. Initially, there were errors C1044 C1021 C1022 C1023 C1044 C1078 C1011, after the reset, only one C1044 popped up again, which means the wrong sequence of the motor rotor position.

According to the owner, before that, the EUR at times refused to work, then everything returned to normal again. We get to the electric booster, for this we remove the steering wheel trim, the torpedo tube and disconnect the wiring:

Unscrew the steering column mount:

We unscrew 3 screws from the cover, behind which is the torque sensor we need:

We saw traces of the past not very high-quality repairs on the sensor:

We cleanse the poor-quality soldering, solder the contacts again. We blow out these optocouplers:

It happens that the usual cleaning of optocouplers helps. If a small speck of dust or a grain of sand gets on the optocoupler's receiver, it stops working. As a result, our work brought results, the EUR started working as before, after resetting the error does not pop up.

To all owners of Lada Kalina with Makhachkala electric power steering, I recommend changing it to Kaluga from Priora. The Dagestan EUR is famous for its unreliability, there are a lot of cases when, due to its failures in its work, cars got into an accident.

Video error C1044, EUR does not work in Lada Kalina:

Backup video how to replace

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Guys, I have a problem with the electric amplifier, it completely refused to work. What is the jamb I do not understand with an electric amplifier
I have not come across literature and I can’t find any literature on it. Many thanks for the earlier. I think this topic will be very relevant for many.

Use Google on the internet, a lot has been written about it, and fill out the profile, wait a day or get a warning

In general, Russia is big, even if the city was indicated
and on the topic of the question, we have already collected a lot here .. be educated showtopic = 1013

pointlov 25 Jun 2009

danil 07 Jul 2009

jody 07 Jul 2009

Akim 09 Jul 2009

floor of trouble if the wire is frayed, and if there is a jamb on the inside of the sensors or the motor, do not try to repair it.
Lope types already flew off the road because of this shit.
our engineers would shove their hands in the ass.
I understand that they are limited in the budget of the car, but after all, in Russia, if you wish, for 5 kopecks, you can furnish a Lexus in terms of kulibinism on a conveyor belt.

Usually there is a non-drip or breakage of the sensor coils due to the shrinkage of the varnish. The quality is disgusting, it becomes scary.

Does the speedometer show the speed?

ERA 05 Nov 2009

Dooooob 08 Mar 2012

This is as it should be, it turns off at this speed.

It should be disconnected. But. it should not be very tight at 60 km-hour.
I can assume that the malfunction is mechanical. It is necessary to hang it out and turn the steering wheel before it is necessary. Then look for where it is tight.

In short, he was diagnosed with a Makhachkala emur, he also diagnosed another Kalina of the same kind, with another viburnum he was always light, even at 150-160 km. there is a gain of 0.1nm for a peasant, and for me it is -06, maybe because of this it will be tight? and how to change it if possible.

Has it always been like this or did it appear later?

I don’t know the car was recently bought, from the moment I bought it it is.

The author, when driving, the car pulls to the right, when the car is stopped (started) I turn the steering wheel to the left until it stops and release, the steering wheel itself swiftly turns to the right until it stops. What could be the problem? Thanks in advance.

Hello. At my start, the steering sensor will light up and then it goes out, but the eur does not turn off, is it normal when it lights up at startup and then goes out?

Murzik Bely thank you very much. I will know now

when the ignition is turned on, the icon should be on, after the engine has started, go out

Salam brother. I looked with a paper clip method 1 long 5 short. In short the sensor is the position of the steering shaft where it is, please.

Hello to all! My wife went for a year without an electric amplifier (Kalina 2008), and finally got around to her. Disassembled and took to the phone repair service. The master said that everything is ok with you, but still undertook to solder and ring. And alas, lo and behold, he says to make bad calls, all connections are lost (although before that he said little about what they write on the Internet), he agreed that this time he believed. So everything is ok, put everything back, everything works! THANKS FOR THE VIDOS. Before that, all the masters told me that there was no point, buy a new EUR (15000r), used 7000-8000r. The price of the issue of 200r was taken by the master for soldering.

Malorik. I did the same. Let's see how long it will work. Good luck.

My friend, please tell me on the Prior I have a problem with EUR, how long does it take for the interior to warm up harasho and the amplifier starts to fail and the light comes on, I'll open the door to cool the interior and again everything works without even turning off the engine. Tell me what is this for garbage.

Can you do the same on Prior? My eur turns off, I turn off the engine again and start it up and the eur works, it can even work for an hour, and it happens that it doesn’t work more often than it works. I taxi on my prior around the city and in traffic jams to turn the steering wheel without eura is a tough thing. There is no money for a new EUR, so this is how I drive, then it pleases with its work the EUR, then on the contrary, tell me how you think maybe I have the same malfunction?

If the ESD produced by Aviaagregat in Makhachkala was installed on the Prior, then you can try. The EUR are simply different: mando, Kaluga, Makhachkala

Hello, the EUR does not work on my Kalina, I changed the speedometer sensor, but the sign is on then no,

And how does the speedometer behave at this moment? Maybe the wires to the sensor are faulty

Read also: DIY heater radiator repair

Can this sensor "steer" itself to the zero position? The fact is that before the steering wheel looked slightly to the left. On the "geometry" asked to align. "Aligned", now looks to the right, more than before looking to the left))) And the car began to pull to the left, as if the steering wheel asks for the old place.

Yes, I realized this later when I found an explanatory description of the EMUR's work. The reason, indeed, was in the setting of the corners. I can't blame the master, becausethe car was in an accident. Although the "geometry", which was immediately after the accident, was done normally. Today with all sorts of threads, plumb lines, levels))) determined that Castor of the left and right stands is very different. Adjusted. Now I came home from the garage, the car goes smoothly (mmm), although 3 km is still not an indicator. But if everything continues to be fine, there is no need to go to the service again. Thank you for the video! I'll take a note.

it's a sensor, not an actuator. Because of it, it cannot pull, but because of interference in the wheel alignment angles, it is quite

you can read the error using a paper clip or via the K-line adapter

I checked that the fuse is working

Also check the K4 relay in the mounting block, there are a lot of things sitting on it, including the EUR.

Is the orange icon on the dashboard lit? Cling through the K-line adapter to the diagnostic connector, check for errors of the EUR

help please, my stove exploded and all the antifreeze got into the salon since then the euro has not been working

Yesterday there was the same story ((Filled one of the boards of the EUR control unit, a block for replacement.

Eura's brains were flooded with antifreeze. It was necessary to rinse with alcohol

First check fuse F31 in the mounting block

Mysticism but this method works

Did you solder and re-solder, or just warmed up and strengthened the soldering?

I didn't solder it, I just warmed it up and added a little POS-61 solder

Thanks for the video! Eur on Kalina either worked for me or did not work. Moreover, it did not work more often. As it turned out, I had no contact with the “mass”. Tinned the place under the screw head and beauty! The rest of the soldering was of high quality.

Amplifier head zae..l, as described above, one to one! I did not undertake repairs because of indifference, and because of my unwillingness to go into the deep jungle of iron filling, and because of my incomplete knowledge of mat. parts. Looked, comprehended, glanced at the clock and took it - everything is about as in the author's video. Thanks to the author, tk. if not for his video, I would have persuaded myself for a long time)))) And so it all turned out, it remains only to check how long the effect will last))) Thanks again, and especially for the fact that no one forces such guys-authors to do and upload videos, but they help people. Respect!

Buddy THANKS YOU VERY MUCH. Year went until the steering wheel is not jammed tightly. decided to climb and everything is nishtyak.

all kind, I have such a problem, the eur stopped working on the Kalina, I took off the clemi for the night, both in the morning started the eur sensor does not burn pulled the steering wheel lit up help

Try to first remove the terminals again, clean them. Also clean the battery terminals. Tighten the terminals harder and smear with lithol on top.

Hello. Do not tell the electric booster, it works, then no .. but its malfunction signal on the panel does not light up.

zaebis, but the author would add literacy of speech.

a big request to the author, make a video on how to remove a radiator on a stove

VAZ "classic" does not provide for such an option as power steering. If the steering does not require much effort when driving on the road, turning the steering wheel at low speed, maneuvering in a parking lot, is quite difficult. To turn the steering wheel “with one finger”, you can install an electric power steering on the VAZ 2107. With the seeming complexity of the device, installation and connection does not require special skills and does not take too much time. To install the power steering, you will need a set of keys, a drill and an electric power steering with wires and fasteners.

An electric amplifier for “seven” is installed in such cases:

to facilitate control when the car is driven by the fair sex;
for safety, convenience and comfort of management;
as an element of car tuning;
to make it easier for the elderly or people with health problems to drive.

On modern cars, two types of amplifiers are used: hydraulic and electric (electromechanical) steering boosters. Abbreviated - GUR and EUR.

The operation of the power steering is based on the use of the pressure of the working fluid (oil). The power steering system includes a pump, supply pipes, reservoir and oil. The pump creates oil pressure, which acts on the mechanism, making it easier to turn the wheels when the steering wheel is turned. The design of such an amplifier is rather complicated, installation is laborious, and the amplifier itself requires regular maintenance. Only when these conditions are met, the power steering will delight with ease and softness of work.

Installing a power steering on a machine whose design does not provide for power steering is a complex and very expensive procedure that requires the installation of additional parts and major changes to the steering design. Therefore, the installation of a hydraulic amplifier on a VAZ 2107 is not justified.

An electromechanical amplifier does an excellent job of its functions and costs almost half as much as a power steering. The installation of the EUR on the VAZ 2107 is not very laborious and does not cause any particular difficulties. Electric power steering does not require periodic maintenance and is more reliable and durable than power steering. For its operation, no special fluids and pumps are needed; it is enough to connect a node at the vehicle's on-board network. Therefore, it is this type of power steering that the owners of "sevens" install on their cars.

Electric amplifiers that can be installed on the "seven" are produced by the "Aviaagregat" plant, located in Makhachkala. The EUR is intended for installation on the VAZ 21214, but the design allows it to be used in the steering of any "classic". The electric booster is mounted directly on the steering column of the car.

The ESD delivery set includes:

electric booster mechanism;
bracket for attaching the EUR to the steering wheel VAZ 2107;
intermediate cardan;
wires;
fasteners;
decorative tourniquet.

The electric booster on the VAZ 2107 works according to the following scheme: the electric motor is triggered synchronously with the steering wheel by the driver, creating an additional torque that reduces the effort to turn the wheels. The amplification factor of the EUR is 5.7, that is, after installing the EUR, instead of a force of up to 20 kg, efforts of up to 3.5 kg will be sufficient.

The amplifier uses the principle of feedback. It looks like this:

the moment sensor determines the fact that the driver is turning the steering wheel and the direction in which the steering wheel rotates on the VAZ 2107;
the EUR control module reads data on engine speed, driving speed, ignition key position, processes it according to the programmed program and issues a control signal to the electric motor;
the electric motor rotates the gimbal of the steering wheel, relieving the driver's efforts.

The speed sensor ensures that the gain is matched to the current vehicle speed. At low speeds, the steering gain is lower, it becomes harder to turn, and when driving at high speeds, less effort is required to turn the steering wheel.

The electric booster starts working 5 seconds after turning on the ignition of the car.

When signs of a malfunction appear, the automatic control system turns it off, transferring the car to the standard manual control mode, which ensures 100% safety in the event of a breakdown.

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the terminals from the battery to avoid a possible short circuit.

The procedure for installing the EUR is as follows:

remove the cover from the steering wheel;
dismantle the old steering joint and install a new one, which comes complete with the EUR;
drill holes for attaching the EUR according to the diagram given in the instructions;
fix the EUR mechanism;
connect wires from RPM and speed sensors;
connect the power supply wires of the EUR through the fuse;
install the protective cover
connect the terminals to the battery.

Almost all operations for the installation and connection of the ESD are carried out in the interior of the car. The work takes 2-3 hours. The guarantee for the ESD of the Makhachkala plant is 1 year.This is the best option for the amplifier in terms of price-performance ratio.

Note: on the VAZ 2107, you can install the EUR from "Priora". To do this, you need to make or buy a special adapter plate and cardan.

The installation of an electric booster is formally considered to be a change in the design of the car and is an obstacle to passing MOT without appropriate certificates of conformity. It will not be possible to hide the fact of installing the EUR on the VAZ 2107 - the device clearly manifests itself when checking the steering wheel play. This may become the basis for refusing to issue a paper on the passage of a mandatory technical inspection.

To pass the inspection in accordance with the law, you need to find an official letter from the manufacturer about the compliance of this EUR model with the requirements for installation on a VAZ 2107. This letter (copy) must be with you when you go through a vehicle inspection.

Also, for maintenance, a document is required confirming the installation of the EUR at a VAZ-certified car service.

In the presence of these two documents, the employees of the inspection station do not have the right to refuse to issue a certificate. In a conflict situation, a written refusal with an indication of the reasons should be requested.

The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When ignited, the system self-diagnostics occurs and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on, signaling a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The red light is on, an urgent need to fix the problem. If the color is yellow, the operation of the vehicle is possible, but it is worth taking safety measures. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:

malfunction of the speed sensor;
malfunction of the torque sensor;
speed exceeds 60 km / h;
the engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
failure in the control unit;
poorly soldered contacts;
insufficient voltage.

The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km / h. Therefore, consider this point, it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. Electric power steering "Priora" is disabled at a speed of 110 km / h.
Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is inactive.

This is programmatically scheduled inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce the wear of the mechanism.

In the case when it is impossible to immediately check the cause of the failure of the electric power steering on Kalina, it is necessary to remove the fuse from the block. This is necessary to prevent a sudden activation of the mechanism, which leads to emergency situations.

A direct indicator of a malfunction of the speed sensor in the electric power steering of Kalina is an inoperative speedometer, as well as an illuminated exclamation mark on the dashboard. It may not work for several reasons. Check the appearance of the sensor, if it gets covered with dirt, just clean it. See if the metal shavings are magnetized and remove them as well.

If this does not help, then the sensor is probably out of order. These sensors are now inexpensive and can be found in many auto parts stores. We do the same for the torque sensor. But where is the speed sensor? It is usually found in the gearbox housing, see the photo on the left.

Another reason for the malfunction of the Kalina electric power steering is the generator. To operate the control unit, you need a voltage of 13.6 V, if you have less, change the voltage regulator (chocolate bar) on it.

Also, the contacts could simply be disconnected due to poor-quality soldering. You can either disassemble and solder the contacts or send them to the service.

If the matter is in the control unit, it is difficult to solve this problem on your own, it will either be soldered in the service, or you will have to buy a new one.

In order not to guess about the cause of the malfunction of the electric power steering, you can connect to the diagnostic port. There are two options, either buy a scanner with a monitor, or connect to a laptop via a cable, after downloading the software to the device.

The second option is cheaper and preferable, as it gives complete information about your car. The error codes can be found on the internet.

The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box, if something does not work, it is worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the upper part towards you and the latch will open.

Check if the fuse works, if it fails, replace it. It is very simple to check, see the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing the 50 amp relay to 30 amp will also help.

Video (click to play).

In newer versions of Kalina, electric amplifiers from Hyundai are installed, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are thousands of cars left with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina with your own hands. The main thing to remember is that not every disconnection of the amplifier is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you have to go to the service.