DIY repair of Makit 9910

Video uploaded by DelovoyD
Search DelovoyD 5 years ago

Hello, This video is for Makita 9911 belt sander disassemble. This one needs new: Pulley 222144-8 Synchro belt 225079-8 FAN 241660-1 Carbon brushes CB-411 Rubber Sleeve 422032-1 Shoe 416419-7 And work 🙂 Total repair cost 57 Euros! -

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the video cannot be directly clamped in a vice, I had to be smart))) And the company looks like Germany

Whoever used an electric plane will understand me. A bad thickness gauge is better in some cases.

The one-year-old car is essentially new, but for what purpose and for what reasons is it being sold? Is it worth buying or even looking at such a car? We disassemble in detail. Permanent link to the article - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/178/pravovye-voprosy/godovalaya-mashina.html

The cut-off wheel test compares popular brands of cut-off wheels to a 125 mm diameter grinder. for the maximum number of reinforcement cuts 18 mm. Rating of discs by the number of cuts with links to parts of the video: 1. Ataman 9:21 2. Kronex 6:00 3. Makita 4:00 4. Kronenflex 5:23 5. Bosch 8:46 6. Hilti 2:03 7.Ring 3:28 8. Patriot 4:57 9. Werk 7:19 10. Vulcan 8:23 11. S&R 6:49 12. Sprut 7:51 13. Formator 1:36 14. Irshava 0:54 15. Steel 0: 36 16. Ninja 1:19 17. ZAK 2:45

This type of improvement is best suited for eccentric sanders with Velcro sanding paper. JOIN VSP GROUP PARTNER PROGRAM:

Rebuilding the bearing seat in a belt grinder DVT

Der neue Bandschleifer PBS 75 AE Set hier von mir getestet! Vielseitig und Powerful! Ideal zum Werken!

accidentally stumbled upon just such a pretty box (polymerbyt). 9911 fit exactly the same. For expense, of course,
there is no more space, but better than in a box.

Romariok wrote:
accidentally stumbled upon just such a pretty box (polymerbyt). 9911 fit exactly the same. For expense, of course,
there is no more space, but better than in a box.

Cool decision! I just bought an ordinary box for my typewriter (it seems steinel), glued a 10-mm foam insert to the bottom. just entered in size, does not hang out.

by the way, the same box was found only for 15 liters (this one for 10 liters)
As I thought, 9404 climbed into it. Exactly. But lift by the handle
already dumb - too heavy (for the side latches calmly). box price

150 and 220r
Store it in the “closet”.

The orator wrote:
Thanks a lot. Strange, I read this post, but did not finish reading it to the end. By the way, it is still not entirely clear from the sketch how to install this part. I give a hint to everyone who follows this path. The very flat platform should be. below the partition. I'll take a photo a little later and post it

The same thing, disassembled - flew away. I could hardly find a description of what it is and where it came from: "> - Pantograph for 9910/9911 * EARTH SUPPORTER"

Here are pictures of how the part should stand:

It is possible not to install, but during operation it will be beaten by static.

Now I checked the record is as it should be But sometimes static hits. I work 9910 almost every day. Sometimes I change my work clothes

On Makita 9911, during operation, a trace remains on the tape from friction along the body in the place of the centering roller. I disassembled it, I did not find any obvious reasons, obviously, a design flaw - a small gap between the body and the center. roller. During operation, it is possible to drive through the body further until the required gap is formed. Who knows, please share your thoughts and experience with this model.

Lay out the photo of the face in a good angle. The trace on the tape, as I understand it, is the outside where the abrasive is?

The trace (blue stripe) is where the abrasive is. Rubs in the place where the centering roller is. There is no structural damage during disassembly. The roller is functioning normally. Can anyone have a photo of the disassembled body of this machine (not new), see how the body is eating up the tape?

Brothers, how quickly does this makita handle a shaggy board? They are interested in how she will cope with a non-planed block of 50 on the floor, 15 sq. From the beginning to grind, and then clean, adjust the differences already in place.
Or is everything better than a plane?

DmitryZ,
do not forget just one thing - the machine is called a "sander", not a planer. Hence the conclusions.

saskashev wrote:
The trace (blue stripe) is where the abrasive is. Rubs in the place where the centering roller is.There is no structural damage during disassembly. The roller is functioning normally. Can anyone have a photo of the disassembled body of this machine (not new), see how the body is eating up the tape?

It looks like the tape is not centered correctly, so it sticks a little to the body.

Mirko wrote:
It looks like the tape is not centered correctly, so it sticks a little to the body.

This is most likely the case. Tighten the centering screw - it should be in place.

saskashev wrote:
Maybe someone has a photo of the disassembled body of this machine (not new),

I will take a photo, in your case the tape has eaten a little of the body at the adjust screw. As an option, the tape can touch the body behind the rear roller. On mine, in this place, the body bulged. I straightened it and it became good.

Baruta wrote:
Tighten the centering screw - it should be in place.

I also think so, adjust, and the tape will no longer gnaw the body, unless of course you press hard on one side. With uneven pressure on the plane, the tape shifts towards higher pressure.

Mirko wrote:
I think so too

Struzhkin wrote:
in this place the body bulged. I straightened it and it became good.

Baruta wrote:
Or so. like uv. Struzhkin, -

I'm not sure about this, however

The inside of my body near the roller is rubbed quite hard - the largest, up to 1 mm. IMHO, this happened due to the fact that, due to something, the tension of the tape was not strong enough, and the tool pressed against the workpiece harder than it should, as a result, at a high speed of the tape in the area of ​​the front roller, a small "wave" was formed, which touched the plastic of the case. Everything that the tape clung to has worn off and no longer clings (when disassembling, it is clear that there is a layer of dust on top of the wear). I don't see any problem with that.

PS: the machine has been in operation for a long time, it has been used quite intensively.

The screw, centering the roller, crawls left-right, and it does not affect the depth. If you look at the roller from the side, you can see how it protrudes from the main roller. Accordingly, you cannot select the height by moving the screw, it will rub until the required gap is formed. This is not a problem of adjustment, but not a refinement of the design. For Makita, this is a negative to reputation.

As an option to eliminate this reason, I think to make a centering roller 2 mm less than the diameter of the existing one, therefore, the tape will go down 1 mm.

Wait and the video will turn itself, I have a lot of statistics on these machines. Mine worked a lot, but the body is not worn. Maybe because I work alone, and the tapes are good. Sometimes the tape starts to excite a lot when I work. I see only one with this machine minus, plastic case. Everything else is plus. And its weight is small. The machine for small volumes. I have been working for many years nirazu did not disappoint.

vlad-mal wrote:
that due to something the belt tension was not strong enough

Here it was already higher - just stretch the spring a little. The tension is increased, which eliminates belt buckling and increases productivity incl.

vlad-mal wrote:
the machine has been in operation for a long time

Well, the tension spring is loose! Take it out and stretch it out well. Many have already gone through this. True, I did not have waves on the tape, I just noticed that the tape slips when pressed.

n-p-n wrote:
Well, the tension spring is loose! Take it out and stretch it out well.

If you stretch the spring, then it will soon become weaker again, it is better to add a washer.
But due to low-quality belts and excessive pressure during grinding, the wave is likely to shuffle along the body.
But I do not think that this is Makita's flaw, this is possible with other firms.

Mirko wrote:
If you stretch the spring, then it will soon become weaker again, it is better to add a washer.
But due to low-quality belts and excessive pressure during grinding, the wave is likely to shuffle along the body.
But I do not think that this is Makita's flaw, this is possible with other firms.

I stretched the spring - so far all the rules. And before that, the tape often slipped.

Dmitry Tycho wrote:
I stretched the spring - so far all the rules. And before that, the tape often slipped

Mirko wrote:
If you stretch the spring, then it will soon become weaker again, it is better to add a washer

this is a joke? Funny!

The first time the spring was stretched for 5 years.
Put on the washer - how thick should the washer be? 10 mm?

n-p-n wrote:
Put on the washer - how thick should the washer be? 10 mm?

And what, your spring has sat down by 10 mm or you got a defective tool?

Mirko, a strange question. Do you take out the spring when buying LSHM and measure it? And then after relaxing again?
I somehow did not think to take measurements after purchase

He took it out, stretched it 10 mm, approximately by eye, and put everything together again. Has become like new. Do you think that if a spring with a length of 40 mm with a travel of 10 mm is compressed by 2 mm, it will be noticeable?

n-p-n wrote:
He took it out, stretched it 10 mm, approximately by eye, and put everything together again. Has become like new.

If you remember, there used to be Druzhba-4M or Ural-Electron chainsaws, the driven stars on the tires were spring-loaded with spiral springs. If the saw chain is too tight or when the bar is clamped during sawing, there is a strong load on the sprocket springs and these springs settle. The springs went as a flow to the driven sprockets. Often the saw blades, in order to save money, stretched the old springs and put them on, and so they were not enough for a long time, since they were already weakened and quickly sat down under load.
This is from practice

This video was created with RUreporter video editor

the fuck continues, it is clear that you have eyes on the balls, but fuck us showing the other side of the pulley

TheKelikat 2 months ago

a makitu, a hammer, not even a round one? and then I thought about how to assemble it. well, there is clearly a diz

Pyrolysis boiler and other models. 4 months ago

When you shake me with the same machine, it works but stalls, in different positions? And I changed the brushes, it’s still the same picture.

Pyrolysis boiler and other models. It looks like a broken power wire.

Evgeniy I 7 months ago

what the fuck is the aunt shaking

You can put a metal plate.

ichbinthor 9 months ago

How do I get big pulley loose ??

Victoria P 9 months ago

Good afternoon, can you show how the tensioning mechanism of the roller for the sanding tape works? The upper roller rests against the body, I can't figure out what's wrong. Thank you.

Your video could be erased and became smaller in volume, you can replace it.

I love how the Russians have so many “DIY” videos, is there a way to translate Russian to American Stupid, I mean American English? Thanks, Mike

he got fucked up even before the machine started))

only downs splash on the bearing

For everyone who is tortured, like me, to remove the impeller pulley (in simple terms - the one that is on the motor) - it is bolted to the REVERSE. carving. It is enough to fix the plastic impeller on the bearing side (finger effort is sufficient) and turn the pulley (which is with a bolt) on the other side CLOCKWISE. A piece from this clip at 0-55 seconds helped :)) Good luck to everyone in the repair.

how to unscrew the impeller pulley?

I dress all bearings with blows on the set-up of the inner race equal in diameter. It's not feng shui to extinguish with a hammer 🙂

I especially liked how they teach how to determine the direction of a used tape :))) - how do not turn it - all one corner will be like this, but you should look at the slice - so that when the tape moves, it does not catch the processed material with a "protrusion" :))) )

dear, tell me, I have sandpaper on it, or rather a roller, even with a slight pressure. how to fix? I bought B. at. I didn't check it right away, but right now I need to fix it like that ..

Red Beard 2 years ago

How did you remove the bearing, which is set at 6:50? the second day I butt to take off

kosty khomenko 3 years ago

There, in general, it is very easy to remove you only need a key for ten and a curly screwdriver! First, you just need to unscrew the roller that turns the tape and it will squeeze out the bearing and then the very next hammer is definitely not needed there!

not clear how to unscrew the video?

Nikolay Potapov 4 years ago

this is how amateurs or idlers repair so that the shaft can be clamped faster, you cannot break the sole for removing the pulley there are 2 holes for the open-end wrench, like on a grinder, and in general it is not clear why there are so many extra actions for this repair

AlexAnder Nobody 4 years ago

Thanks to the author and Master Dmitry. Today we will carry out an "autopsy".

Roma Dolmatov 4 years ago

The bearing had to be slightly heated with a hairdryer and would have stood up without resistance ..

Alisa Shargorodskaya 4 years ago

Thank you for your detailed sander assembly review! Could you show an overview video - Disassembly!)) How did you disassemble the pulley to replace the impeller?

Master Dmitry Maybe I should have started with disassembly. Such videos are watched by those who have never read this machine in their lives! Is it that hard to understand?

Master Dmitry 4 years ago

+ DelovoyD is a good answer))) There is a little trick in dismantling a large pulley (impeller) and the master does not show this, he does not want to reveal his professional skill, this is sad. And it is better to remove the gearbox pulley without disassembling the gearbox, it's easier, you can later disassemble it for lubrication. The impeller-pulley is removed by a sharp blow of a screwdriver into the blade against the direction of the thread (left thread) without disassembling the right side of the machine.

to remove the impeller, you need to turn the pulley and the nut will unscrew along the edge

the fucking continues, it is clear that you have eyes on the balls, but fuck us showing the other side of the pulley

a makitu, a hammer, not even a round one? and then I thought about how to assemble it. well, there is clearly a diz

When I shake it with the same machine, it works but it stalls, in different positions? And I changed the brushes, it’s still the same picture.

Pyrolysis boiler and other models. It looks like a broken power wire.

what the fuck is the aunt shaking

You can put a metal plate.

How do I get big pulley loose ??

Good afternoon, can you show how the tensioning mechanism of the roller for the sanding tape works? The upper roller rests against the body, I can't figure out what's wrong. Thank you.

Your video could be erased and became smaller in volume, you can replace it.

I love how the Russians have so many “DIY” videos, is there a way to translate Russian to American Stupid, I mean American English? Thanks, Mike

he got fucked up even before the machine started))

only downs splash on the bearing

For everyone who is tortured, like me, to remove the impeller pulley (in simple terms - the one that is on the motor) - it is bolted to the REVERSE. carving. It is enough to fix the plastic impeller on the bearing side (enough finger efforts) and turn the pulley (which is with a bolt) on the other side CLOCKWISE. A piece from this clip at 0-55 seconds helped :)) Good luck to everyone in the repair.

how to unscrew the impeller pulley?

I dress all bearings with blows on the set-up of the inner race equal in diameter. It's not feng shui to extinguish with a hammer 🙂

I especially liked how they teach how to determine the direction of a used tape :))) - how do not turn it - all one corner will be like this, but you should look at the slice - so that when the tape moves, it does not catch the processed material with a "protrusion" :))) )

dear, tell me, I have sandpaper on it, or rather a roller, even with a slight pressure. how to fix? I bought B. at. I didn't check it right away, but right now I need to fix it like that ..

How did you remove the bearing, which is set at 6:50? the second day I butt to take off

There, in general, it is very easy to remove you only need a key for ten and a curly screwdriver! First, you just need to unscrew the roller that turns the tape and it will squeeze out the bearing and then the very next hammer is definitely not needed there!

not clear how to unscrew the video?

this is how amateurs or idlers repair so that the shaft can be clamped faster, you cannot break the sole for removing the pulley there are 2 holes for the open-end wrench, like on a grinder, and in general it is not clear why there are so many extra actions for this repair

Thanks to the author and Master Dmitry. Today we will carry out an "autopsy".

The bearing had to be slightly heated with a hairdryer and would have stood up without resistance ..

Thank you for your detailed sander assembly review! Could you show an overview video - Disassembly!)) How did you disassemble the pulley to replace the impeller?

Master Dmitry Maybe I should have started with disassembly. Such videos are watched by those who have never read this machine in their lives! Is it that hard to understand?

+ DelovoyD is a good answer))) There is a little trick in dismantling a large pulley (impeller) and the master does not show this, he does not want to reveal his professional skill, this is sad. And it is better to remove the gearbox pulley without disassembling the gearbox, it's easier, you can later disassemble it for lubrication.The impeller-pulley is removed by a sharp blow of a screwdriver into the blade against the direction of the thread (left thread) without disassembling the right side of the machine.

to remove the impeller, you need to turn the pulley and the nut will unscrew along the edge

Before turning on the LShM for the first time, read the instructions for its operation.

Malfunction- This is a mismatch of any part of the tool with its performance due to wear or other reasons. Further work usually leads to breakage.

Breaking- this is a consequence of work with malfunctions, leading to a complete loss of performance of the power tool.

Malfunctions can be divided into two categories:

Definition by ear.

Each power tool has its own characteristic sound when idling and under load. Any change in it indicates a malfunction. Abnormal noise can come from both the gearbox (mechanical part) and the electric motor.

In some cases, the appearance of noise occurs due to bearing wear, overheating and seizure. As a result of long-term operation of the tool without technical inspection.

To determine the state of the electric motor, it is enough to pay attention to the sparking under the brushes on the rotor manifold, but in view of the design features of the apparatus, this is impossible. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle and inspect the brushes. During normal operation of the rotor and brushes, there must be a geometrically correct shape of the contacting part of the brushes, repeating the contour of the rotor collector, without chips (it must be done every working week, together with the pump blowing out the brush holders of the belt and its drive).

If chips are present, even weak ones, this means that a spark is going through the rotor manifold, which is detrimental to the engine.

Installing the tape on the tape drive mechanism.

It is necessary to adjust the tape so that it does not slide towards the body and does not cut it.

If adjustment is not possible, replace the belt with a new one.

If, after changing the belt, it is impossible to adjust, then it is necessary to replace the parts responsible for the location of the belt on the sliding platform.

In extreme cases, if the tape sawed through the body, then you need to replace it.

The manufacturer recommends removing dust from the housing and engine every week. For this: the protective casing of the drive belt is removed, the brushes are dismantled and the entire casing is blown out by a pump or compressor.
Remember excess dust is overheating of the car. The front idler roller must also be removed once a week, cleaned and lubricated.

passing technical inspection after 6-12 months. (depending on the intensity of use).

the fucking continues, it is clear that you have eyes on the balls, but fuck us showing the other side of the pulley

a makitu, a hammer, not even a round one? and then I thought about how to assemble it. well, there is clearly a diz

When you shake me with the same machine, it works but stalls, in different positions? And I changed the brushes, it’s still the same picture.

Pyrolysis boiler and other models. It looks like a broken power wire.

what the fuck is the aunt shaking

You can put a metal plate.

How do I get big pulley loose ??

Good afternoon, can you show how the tensioning mechanism of the roller for the sanding tape works? The upper roller rests against the body, I can't figure out what's wrong. Thank you.

Your video could be erased and became smaller in volume, you can replace it.

I love how the Russians have so many “DIY” videos, is there a way to translate Russian to American Stupid, I mean American English? Thanks, Mike

he got fucked up even before the machine started))

only downs splash on the bearing

For everyone who is tortured, like me, to remove the impeller pulley (in simple terms - the one that is on the motor) - it is bolted to the REVERSE. carving. It is enough to fix the plastic impeller on the bearing side (finger effort is sufficient) and turn the pulley (which is with a bolt) on the other side CLOCKWISE. A piece from this clip at 0-55 seconds helped :)) Good luck to everyone in the repair.

how to unscrew the impeller pulley?

I dress all bearings with blows on the set-up of the inner race equal in diameter. It's not feng shui to extinguish with a hammer 🙂

I especially liked how they teach how to determine the direction of a used tape :))) - how do not turn it - all one corner will be like this, but you should look at the slice - so that when the tape moves, it does not catch the processed material with a "protrusion" :))) )

dear, tell me, I have sandpaper on it, or rather a roller, even with a slight pressure. how to fix? I bought B. at. I didn't check it right away, but right now I need to fix it like that ..

How did you remove the bearing, which is set at 6:50? the second day I butt to take off

There, in general, it is very easy to remove you only need a key for ten and a curly screwdriver! First, you just need to unscrew the roller that turns the tape and it will squeeze out the bearing and then the very next hammer is definitely not needed there!

not clear how to unscrew the video?

this is how amateurs or idlers repair so that the shaft can be clamped faster, you cannot break the sole for removing the pulley there are 2 holes for the open-end wrench, like on a grinder, and in general it is not clear why there are so many extra actions for this repair

Thanks to the author and Master Dmitry. Today we will carry out an "autopsy".

The bearing had to be slightly heated with a hairdryer and would have stood up without resistance ..

Thank you for your detailed sander assembly review! Could you show the overview video - Disassembly!)) How did you disassemble the pulley to replace the impeller?

Master Dmitry Maybe I should have started with disassembly. Such videos are watched by those who have never read this machine in their lives! Is it that hard to understand?

+ DelovoyD is a good answer))) There is a little trick in dismantling a large pulley (impeller) and the master does not show this, he does not want to reveal his professional skill, this is sad. And it is better to remove the gearbox pulley without disassembling the gearbox, it's easier, you can later disassemble it for lubrication. The impeller-pulley is removed by a sharp blow of a screwdriver into the blade against the direction of the thread (left thread) without disassembling the right side of the machine.

to remove the impeller, you need to turn the pulley and the nut will unscrew along the edge

the fucking continues, it is clear that you have eyes on the balls, but fuck us showing the other side of the pulley

a makitu, a hammer, not even a round one?
and then I thought about how to assemble it.
well, there is clearly a diz

When you shake me with the same machine, it works but stalls, in different positions? And I changed the brushes, it’s still the same picture.

Pyrolysis boiler and other models. It looks like a broken power wire.

what the fuck is the aunt shaking

You can put a metal plate.

How do I get big pulley loose ??

Good afternoon, can you show how the tensioning mechanism of the roller for the sanding tape works? The upper roller rests against the body, I can't figure out what's wrong.
Thank you.

Your video could be erased and became smaller in volume, you can replace it.

I love how the Russians have so many “DIY” videos, is there a way to translate Russian to American Stupid, I mean American English?
Thanks,
Mike

he got fucked up even before the machine started))

only downs splash on the bearing

For everyone who is tortured, like me, to remove the impeller pulley (in simple terms - the one that is on the motor) - it is bolted to the REVERSE. carving. It is enough to fix the plastic impeller on the bearing side (finger effort is sufficient) and turn the pulley (which is with a bolt) on the other side CLOCKWISE.
A piece from this clip at 0-55 seconds helped :))
Good luck to everyone in the repair.

how to unscrew the impeller pulley?

I dress all bearings with blows on the set-up of the inner race equal in diameter. It's not feng shui to extinguish with a hammer 🙂

I especially liked how they teach how to determine the direction of a used tape :))) - how do not turn it - all one corner will be like this, but you should look at the slice - so that when the tape moves, it does not catch the processed material with a "protrusion" :))) )

dear, tell me, I have sandpaper on it, or rather a roller, even with a slight pressure. how to fix? I bought B. at. I didn't check it right away, but right now I need to fix it like that ..

How did you remove the bearing, which is set at 6:50? the second day I butt to take off

There, in general, it is very easy to remove you only need a key for ten and a curly screwdriver! First, you just need to unscrew the roller that turns the tape and it will squeeze out the bearing and then the very next hammer is definitely not needed there!

not clear how to unscrew the video?

this is how amateurs or idlers repair so that the shaft can be clamped faster, you cannot break the sole for removing the pulley there are 2 holes for the open-end wrench, like on a grinder, and in general it is not clear why there are so many extra actions for this repair

Thanks to the author and Master Dmitry. Today we will carry out an "autopsy".

The bearing had to be slightly heated with a hairdryer and would have stood up without resistance ..

Thank you for your detailed sander assembly review! Could you show the overview video - Disassembly!)) How did you disassemble the pulley to replace the impeller?

Master Dmitry Maybe I should have started with disassembly. Such videos are watched by those who have never read this machine in their lives! Is it that hard to understand?

+ DelovoyD is a good answer))) There is a little trick in dismantling a large pulley (impeller) and the master does not show this, he does not want to reveal his professional skill, this is sad. And it is better to remove the gearbox pulley without disassembling the gearbox, it's easier, you can later disassemble it for lubrication. The impeller-pulley is removed by a sharp blow of a screwdriver into the blade against the direction of the thread (left thread) without disassembling the right side of the machine.

to remove the impeller, you need to turn the pulley and the nut will unscrew along the edge