In detail: do-it-yourself car repair 2109 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
VAZ 2109 is a Russian 5-door hatchback, popularly known as the Nine. In fact, this model is a five-door modification of the VAZ 2108. The car was produced at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant from 1987 to 2006. And from 2007 to 2011, the VAZ 21093 modification was produced at the ZAZ plant in Ukraine.
Despite the fact that the VAZ 2109 has not been produced for quite a long time, this model still remains one of the most popular among Russian consumers. "Nine" is one of those cars whose owners prefer to do their own repairs. By repairing this car, you can gain a lot of experience in this area. Later, changing to a foreign car or another Russian car of a higher class, you will already be aware of how your “iron friend” works.
Especially for you, we have prepared useful information on repairing cars of the VAZ 2109 model, using our articles, you can easily replace pads, oil in a box or engine, a cabin filter and other little things. And advanced craftsmen can also replace shock absorbers, a starter, a generator. change the timing belt with your own hands.
This site will help you repair and maintain your VAZ 2109 or VAZ 2108 car on your own without contacting a service station.
In each section you will find a lot of useful information on repair with detailed step-by-step instructions and photo reports of the work performed.
If you have questions in a particular topic, you can ask them in a suitable article, and the readers of the resource will try to help in solving your problem.
This material will be useful to all owners of VAZ 2109, 2108 and 21099 cars with injection engines, since it is on such models that the crankshaft position sensor is installed from the factory. DPKV is the part that you should have in stock ...
In case of sufficiently strong wear or uneven development of the front brake discs, they must be replaced with new ones, since the braking efficiency of the car is significantly reduced. Of course, there are special workshops in which you can grind the surface of the discs if there are scars, deep grooves on it ...
Video (click to play).
Today in car stores you can find a fairly large number of different models of starters. Of course, they can differ both in design and fastening, and in price, depending on the manufacturer. Below will be presented the main models of starters for the VAZ 2109-2108, as well as ...
A fairly common question that covers not only VAZ 2109-2108 cars, but probably all VAZs as a whole, since problems with starting the engine are quite common and similar machines. Of course, the topic is hackneyed, but to get an answer to your question, why ...
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If you have been familiar with cars for a long time and you often had to service them yourself, then you probably know that spark plugs should not be oiled, have black deposits or deposits. Moreover, one can even say that the symptoms listed above may speak ...
Often, the owners of VAZ 2109-2108 cars have problems in which the steering wheel begins to beat. And this can be especially evident at a more or less high speed. For example, at 60 km / h everything is still fine, but closer to 90-100 km / h the steering wheel starts ...
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Hello everyone. Today we will talk about pillows, I will tell you how to replace the front engine mount (POD) on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands, at home. In my previous articles, I already talked about how to replace the engine mountings with a VAZ, with this
Cooling fan problems tend to occur with used cars with decent mileage. This breakdown manifests itself in different ways, the fan may not work stably, it may turn on with a delay or not turn on at all. Today we will talk about the last malfunction, that is,
The speedometer of this car model is equipped with a mechanical drive. Installation of gears, including the leading one, is carried out on the secondary shaft of the box. The transmission of torque to the speedometer, which is located on the tidy, is provided by a flexible shaft.
Hello dear readers my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3067. In the previous article we talked about clutch malfunctions, as well as how to adjust it, today I will continue the clutch topic and talk about how to replace the clutch with a VAZ 2109 (2108, 2114, 2115). To your
Steering rack - designed to convert the rotational motion that comes from the steering wheel into the forward motion of the steering rods, which turn the wheels and allow the car to steer. In order to prevent dirt, water and fine sand particles from entering the steering rack,
Windshield wipers, wipers, brushes are essentially the same thing. As a rule, we remember the existence of these only when it starts to rain or when another bird flying by has promised us a lot of wealth right on the “lobovukha” :-).
A familiar situation: only yesterday the engine worked like a “watch”, but today it doesn’t pull, an incomprehensible vibration at idle, and the fuel “eats black”. There can be several reasons for this behavior, for example, the symptoms are very similar to problems with candles.
Considering the current opportunities in terms of buying spare parts, materials, tools, as well as the relative simplicity of the VAZ 2109 car design, doing body repairs with your own hands is not the most difficult task. Many do bodywork on their own, not inferior in quality to specialized workshops.
What are the weak points of the body of the domestic nine? Let's try to find out.
If rotten or deformed elements of the car body are found, they must be removed and appropriate measures taken to restore the integrity of these areas.
The most vulnerable parts of the VAZ 2109 body include:
Front floor, side skirts with amplifiers, doors, fenders and underbody of the rear part of the body;
The hood has relative endurance, but begins to lose its former properties over time. The area above the battery is especially affected. Here, most often, the owners of the nine notice the formation of rust;
A notable problem that many drivers face is the floor of the fuel tank;
Reflectors optics, muffler also cannot boast of a long life without the appearance of signs of rust.
VIDEO To get rid of the problem of rust formation on the body, you need to do some work. On your own or with the help of specialists, decide for yourself.
In the process of body repair, it is often necessary to raise the car on a jack. If the areas for the jack are rusted, use the sub-boom to lift the vehicle.
Often, the body is repaired on its own in the event that small areas have suffered, dents or holes have formed due to rust. In addition to geometry correction, painting and polishing are performed.
VIDEO
More serious deformations, damage caused by collisions, road accidents, necessarily imply contacting specialized workshops. Here, focusing on the control points and using professional equipment, you can restore the body as accurately as possible without violating its geometry, while maintaining rigidity and other factory parameters. Sometimes they can even be improved.
VIDEO
Measuring the distances between the test points of the body is the most common way to check the condition of the car. Having completed the measurements, it is required to verify them with the passport data.
The check is performed as follows:
The dimensions are checked diagonally;
The current state of the machine racks is checked;
The roof is examined visually, the dimensions of the diagonals of the roof itself and the door frame are checked;
Special attention is paid to measurements of the rear and frontal window frames;
A visual inspection of the entire body is carried out from various angles in order to determine the presence of gaps, bulges that differ from the required parameters.
Check Point
Passport dimensions
Tolerance (+/-)
Diagonal of the front door opening from the edge of the lower sill to the middle of the roof
Diagonal of the front doorway from the lowest point of the windshield to the middle of the lower sill
The distance between the front door hinges to the pillar in a straight line
Diagonal of the rear door opening from the connection point of the lower sill with the B-pillar to the roof
Diagonal of the rear door opening from the top of the B-pillar to the lower sill
nuts are very hard to unscrew (just a normal key will not work) - they stick;
in order to remove the SHPUS, a special tool is required - it is almost impossible to remove it with the help of the hands;
The replacement procedure may take less than 2 hours for you, and in the service it will take 20 minutes.
carry out technical maintenance and change fluids;
Use the transport media in a cool manner.
VIDEO
I have a problem in my clutch when I press the clutch pedal, does it whistle?
Some "successful" change of the BB wires can lead to the replacement of the starter, the carburetor, the air filter and its casing, when the engine is ejected or For cranking without start-up, the most safe option is the option with disconnection of the input of the commutator from the output of the distributor or disconnection of the power supply from the commutator.
The elements of the design of the car are the things that are sufficiently serious and hard to remember. For example, do you know what an interculer is? If not, then take a look at this article. Here you will know what it is for the device, why it is necessary and many other things.
The article is dedicated to the repair of Chevrolet Niva. You know what to do with the problems that got you in the way. Among the illuminated faults you will find: the engine does not start or ignite, the car moves in jerks and much more.
Of course, the wheel is an important part of the engine. Its defects are often caused by the fact that the engine does not work. But in this case, it is absolutely unnecessary to buy a new piece. You can grind it. This is what will be discussed.
manual for the operation, maintenance and repair of cars
gasoline engines:
Section 1. Vehicle device
Section 2. Recommendations for car operation
Section 3. Vehicle malfunctions on the way
Section 5. Transmission
Section 6. Chassis
Section 7. Steering
Section 8. Braking system
Brake hoses and pipes
Section 11. Features of cars VAZ 21083-20 and VAZ 21093-20 equipped with a fuel injection system
Section 16. Winter operation of the vehicle
The first photo shows the chassis of a VAZ 21099 car, typical for front-wheel drive cars produced in the 80s of the last century. Below you will find a picture of the MacPherson strut front suspension with telescopic struts and wishbones with stabilizer bars. The rear suspension of the VAZ "Sputnik" has shock absorbers located inside the coil springs and trailing arms interconnected by an elastic beam.
Do-it-yourself repair of the chassis of a VAZ 21099 car is not very difficult. The main thing is to have the necessary tools and be able to correctly identify malfunctions.
Front suspension diagram of VAZ "Sputnik-Samara".
Telescopic stand.
Screw.
Eccentric bolt.
Another nut.
Rounded fist.
Drive shaft.
Outer CV joint cover.
External CV joint.
Wishbone suspension.
Ball.
Decorative cover.
Hub.
Support disc.
Protective cover.
Swivel arm.
Lower spring cup.
Coil spring.
Stand cover.
Compression buffer.
Upper spring cup.
Upper strut bearing.
Rack support.
In this diagram, the braces and the front stabilizer are not marked.
VIDEO
Among the methods for determining faults, the visual method is good in that it allows you to identify minor damage to parts long before they lead to serious damage. In this case, emergency repair of the front suspension will not be required, and most importantly, there will be no risk of an emergency.
It is better to inspect the parts of the chassis of the VAZ 21099 car on a clear sunny day. If this is not possible, a powerful flashlight should be prepared. In addition, a soft-bristled rag and brush should be stocked in advance to wipe off dust and dirt from the surfaces being inspected.
First drive the machine onto a lift or hole. If this is not possible, raise the front end of the car with a jack. Do not forget to put the car on the handbrake and support the rear wheels.
Remove the front wheels for convenience.
Carefully inspect the protective covers for constant velocity joints, ball joints, as well as stabilizer pads and silent blocks. If you find tears, cracks and one-sided bulging of the rubber, replace the damaged parts.
Inspect metal parts for cracks and deflections. If problems are found, supply new parts.
Look for oil leaks on the racks. If they are, replace shock absorbers or struts entirely.
Inspect the compression buffer and spring for cracks. Replace them if necessary.
Measure the distance A (in the above diagram) between the platter and the front suspension arm. If the swing distance increases by 0.8 millimeters or more, replace the ball joint.
Rock the hub left and right and up and down. If it sways and a knock is heard, the car will have to be repaired, the hub bearing will have to be replaced.
Replacing the silent blocks of the suspension
If no damage has been identified, do not consider yourself wasting your time. Such an inspection must be carried out every 5000 kilometers. It will avoid serious problems while driving.
If you do not want to waste time in vain, do a little tuning - install the front stabilizer from the Lada Priora during diagnostics. It is perfect for VAZ 21099. With it, the chassis of your car will become more rigid, but it will improve the stability of the car at high speeds.
General view of the car VAZ 2109
Lada Samara - VAZ 2109 is a five-door hatchback with front-wheel drive. For the wedge-shaped body contours, it is called a "chisel".
In order to prevent malfunctions and increase the reliability of the car, scheduled preventive maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2109 is provided, which includes checking, adjusting, lubricating, replacing some parts after a certain run of the car.
After the unit has been checked, if necessary, an order is outlined for the VAZ 2109 repair and maintenance.
Even the most reliable car requires overhaul over time. The causes of breakdowns can be different, they concern the engine, gearbox, chassis and battery and other components and assemblies of the machine.
Tip: Overhaul of the engine is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the oil filter, retaining rings, and gaskets. The gearbox and engine oil is being changed.
Body repair can also be done by hand.
All hinged body parts are removed.
Rotten pieces or parts that are covered with a thick layer of rust are cut out. Material is purchased to replace worn-out elements, you can use parts from a machine disassembled for spare parts or a piece of metal sheet of the same thickness and weld them in place of the removed parts.
The body is being prepared for painting.
Tip: To give your car the perfect look, it is best to paint it as a whole.
Suspension of the car VAZ 2109
Often the cause of a malfunction of the chassis can be problems associated with the ball joint. In this case, the wheel is removed, the distance between the lower suspension arm and the brake disc of the wheel is measured.
Many troubles are caused by problems in silent blocks. It is better to replace them after installing the car on a pit or overpass.
VIDEO
Installing a carburetor in a VAZ 2109 car
If the car jerks during the start and when picking up speed, the carburetor is most likely clogged.
Swap high-voltage wires under the hood.
Start the engine several times.
The engine will not start, but the carburetor will clean well.
The wires are set to their original position.
The engine starts.
Tip: If the carburetor has not cleared out in three attempts, it is better to use another troubleshooting method.
The carburetor is removed from the vehicle.
The element is blown out with compressed air. In this case, you need to get acquainted with the literature or contact a specialist. In addition, all parts of the carburetor are flushed after it has been completely disassembled.
These are just a few examples of how repair and operation is carried out at VAZ. Any car owner can get acquainted with the repair of all units of a VAZ 2109 car by watching a special video.
Today, do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 body repair is carried out by many owners of this car. And in general, a large part of the fans of the domestic auto industry is faced with body problems. The cost of repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 in car services leaves much to be desired, so you have to do some types of work yourself.
In reality, there is nothing complicated in replacing individual elements of the body of the "nine". If you have the necessary tools at hand, then it will not be difficult to replace, for example, a rotten arch or the bottom of a car, a threshold or a bumper. From the article you will learn how to do this without wasting a lot of time and effort.
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Before proceeding to the direct instructions for repairing the body of the VAZ 2109, I would like to focus on choosing the right tools. Every professional, master of his craft will confirm that a good tool is half of the successful completion of any repair operation.
So, the list of necessary tools for body repair of the "nine" is quite wide, since the work is by no means simple and will require a considerable number of specific devices:
Special hammers are required, at least 3 types of them with different sizes for straightening work;
Grinder with fitted circles (you need different discs that perfectly remove paintwork and rust);
It is desirable that there is a carbon dioxide cylinder in the garage (about 10 cubic meters);
No welding during bodywork, like no hands (it is better to choose a device with a maximum current of 150 A);
Good chisels with hardened points and several of the same drills for metal;
Lift (it is better to have 2 jacks);
A good brush for metal (you will need it to clean rusty parts of the body);
A standard set of tools for a motorist (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.).
Let's get acquainted with the work process so far in general terms:
First of all, it will be necessary to remove those parts of the body that are rotten or deformed;
On the "nine" over time, the fastest rots are the front floor with sills and amplifiers, the bottom in the rear, doors and fenders.
Note. It is impossible even to put a jack, since the section provided by the manufacturer for it (the jack) comes into disrepair.To work in this place, the car can be lifted using the engine beam instead of the stop.
The hood of the "nine" also cannot boast of endurance. In the place where the battery is located, it becomes covered with rust;
The floor of the fuel tank is also considered a noticeable problem on the "nine";
The same fate befell over time the reflectors of the optics, the muffler and other parts.
In general, corrosion is the number one problem for domestic cars. It seems that the level of anti-corrosion protection on them is carried out well, but rust eats everything over time, and there is no getting away from it.
The engine compartment is being disassembled, the coolant and the radiator must be drained;
Doors are removed;
If a TV (amplifier) is installed in front, then it must be disassembled;
Rotten areas will have to be cut off with a grinder;
Rusty panels and fenders will also have to be cut off;
Holes can be simply welded or patched;
It is recommended to put additional metal pieces on problem areas;
Mudguards must be reinforced with new elements, and then tacked with spot welding;
It is also obligatory to fit new parts to the body so that there are no problems;
It is advisable to fasten the wings, thresholds with self-tapping screws, bolts, followed by welding of parts.
Note. It is imperative to restore the geometry of the body, which takes a lot of time. You will need a slipway machine on which you will have to fix the car. There are special clamps on the slipway that ensure reliable fixation of the machine. You can read more about the control points of the "nine" below.
After that, you can start welding the new floor. At this stage of work, patches, amplifiers and connectors are widely used. Be sure to cover all areas with anticorrosive at the end;
It is better to put new arches too, and not bother with their repair.
It is advisable to cover the arches with resin mixed with used oil. This is an excellent anti-rye remedy, but you can't put it on the bottom for obvious reasons.
Do-it-yourself restoration of the correction of the original state of the body and parts involves, as a rule, simple painting and removal of dents. It is not complete without polishing, which protects the surface well from corrosion.
As for the complete restoration of a body that has been involved in an accident, the service of professionals is already required. Only in a car service can the body be properly restored, according to the basic checkpoints. Here, the appropriate equipment is available, and the specific technology of conducting is well known to the masters.
In any case, before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to check the condition of the body. The most famous method of verification involves measuring the distances between control points and then reconciling them with passport indicators.
Specifically, the body is checked as follows:
The dimensions are checked diagonally;
The condition of the car racks is being studied;
The roof is subjected to visual inspection, the dimensions of the diagonals of the door frame and the roof itself are measured;
Particular attention is paid to measuring the front and rear window frames;
Finally, a detailed visual inspection of the car from all angles is required. Maybe where there is a bulge, the gap is larger, and so on.
An interesting video about the repair and straightening of the "nine" body
VIDEO
Often the rear and front bumpers on the "nine" are removed to carry out their repair or to restore other parts of the body. You will still have to learn how to remove them correctly and without problems, whatever one may say, if the owner intends to carry out body repairs on his own.
So, in order to remove the rear bumper:
On the side, we find the nuts that fix the bumper to the body, and turn them off (as a rule, there are 2 fasteners on each side);
We find the nuts of the front bumper attachment and now unscrew them (it is recommended to hold the bumper so that it does not fall).
The removal of the front bumper is carried out in a similar way, only here it is also necessary to remove the plastic wheel arch liners.
The preferred color of the bumpers on the "nine" is a perennial topic for discussions between lovers of this car model. Many are on the side of the classic black color, although there are those who believe that the color of the bumper should be in harmony with the color of the car.
Whatever it was, painting and decorative repairs are not difficult to carry out. The bumpers will need to be dismantled, thoroughly inspected for deformations. If there are any, then the elements will have to be aligned, and the rest of the parts will have to be cleaned of old paint and rust.
Attention. If the bumper is plastic, then its defects can be repaired with putty.
Plastic bumpers are excellently cleaned of rust and paint using sandpaper with a grain size of 200-400. If there are holes in the bumper, they can be covered with pieces of plastic removed from old bumpers or other plastic parts. As you know, plastic is well glued to each other with a soldering iron with a power of 40-60 watts.
In general, parts of a damaged plastic bumper can be fastened in 4 ways.
By melting the plastic of the bumper itself or additional linings. In this case, the width of the welded seam can be left at 1.5 cm, and as for the depth of the solder, it should depend on the thickness of the bumper.
By joining with parallel seams. In this case, ordinary wire, and nails with the caps removed, and other improvised means will help. You just need to solder these peculiar fasteners from the back of the bumper.
A more complex option involves the use of flexible wire, better than copper. It is already soldered in the same way as in method 3, only in a zigzag, a snake from the inside. If this method is not possible on the back of the bumper, the snake can also be made from the front.
The grille will connect the bumper pieces to each other more firmly than anyone else. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a mesh (a piece of a decorative radiator grill will do).
If you could not find similar pieces of plastic, then you can use other materials:
The same grille, bent over the shape of the bumper. After the mesh is soldered into the bumper, you need to take some plastic, similar in elasticity to the bumper material, and melt it, put it on the mesh. The borders of the standard plastic must be carefully combined with the edges of the superimposed material. After the plastic has hardened, it is necessary to smooth and sand everything;
You can build up the missing part of the plastic with putty. Only it will need to be mixed with "epoxy". Be sure to carry out grinding at the final stage;
The putty is also mixed with fiberglass.
The fixation of the front fenders on the "nine" is done quite successfully, if we mean the ease of removal. Only a few bolts hold them in place. Therefore, no welding is required to dismantle them, but it is enough just to arm yourself with a pair of good curly screwdrivers and an 8-dimensional head with an extension.
Lockers that are held on self-tapping screws are removed;
The wing bolt is unscrewed, holding the body element from below at the threshold;
Two more bolts hold the fender from the inside;
You will have to completely dismantle the bumper or unscrew its side fasteners, and then take it aside to gain access to another bolt that secures the wing;
Finally, it remains to remove a few bolts securing the wing from above.
With a wing, if it is deformed, it is also not customary to tinker. You can easily replace it with a new one, especially since it is inexpensive - 1200 rubles. If you use auto-parsing, then the part can be bought even at half the price.
If, nevertheless, the wing has received small deformations or traces of rust are observed on it, then it is easy to repair the part. Again, it can be removed and then refined at a garage workbench.
If you don't want to remove the wing, then you can fix it right on the car, using straightening hammers, pliers and a jack.
As a rule, after carrying out straightening work, painting of the wings is required:
First, the part is degreased and cleaned to a metallic sheen;
Finished with a putty mixed with fiberglass, minor dents;
Finishing putty is applied and sanded well;
After drying, a primer is applied. Ideally, you should apply 2 coats and then paint;
Put epoxy varnish on top in 1-1.5 layers.
You can read in detail about the repair and restoration of other body parts in other articles on our website. Video reviews and useful photos, diagrams and drawings will only be a plus.
Video (click to play).
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