Do-it-yourself oil pump repair uaz

With heavy wear of the oil pump parts, the pressure in the lubrication system decreases and noise appears. When disassembling the pump, check the elasticity of the pressure relief valve spring. The elasticity of the spring is considered sufficient if a force of 54 ± 2.45 N (5.5 ± 0.25 kgf) must be applied to compress it to 24 mm in height.

Repairing an oil pump usually consists of grinding the end caps, replacing gears and gaskets.

When disassembling the pump, pre-drill the riveted head the pin and the bushing fastening 2 (see Fig. 71) on its roller 1, knock out the pin, remove the bushing and the pump cover. After that, remove the pump shaft together with the drive gear from the housing towards its cover.

Rice. 71. Drive of the oil pump and ignition distributor: position of the roller slot

A - on the drive installed on the engine; B-on the drive before installing it on the engine; B - on the oil pump shaft before installing the drive on the engine;

1-roller of the oil pump; 2-sleeve; 3-intermediate roller; 4-pin; 5-drive gear; 6-gear of a camshaft; 7-thrust washer; 8-block of cylinders; 9-gasket; 10-roller drive; 11-drive housing; 12-drive ignition distributor

In the case of disassembling the pinion gear and roller, drill the pin with a 3 mm drill.

Replace the drive and driven gears with chipped teeth, as well as with noticeable deformations of the surface of the teeth with new ones. The drive and driven gears installed in the pump housing should be easily turned by hand by the drive shaft.

If on the inner surface of the cover there is a significant (more than 0.05 mm) depletion from the ends of the gears, grind it.

Paronite gaskets with a thickness of 0.3 - 0.4 mm are installed between the cover, plate and pump casing.

The use of shellac, paint cabbage soup and other sealing substances when installing the gasket, as well as installing a thicker gasket, is not allowed, as this causes a decrease in the pump flow.

Assemble the pump taking into account the following:

1. Press the bushing onto the drive shaft, making sure that the distance between the end of the drive shaft and the end of the sleeve is 8 mm (fig. 73). In this case, the gap between the pump casing and the other end of the sleeve must be at least 0.5 mm.

Figure 73. Fastening the bushing to the oil pump shaft

2. Drill a hole with a diameter of 4-0.05 + 0.03 mm in the drive shaft and in the bushing, keeping the dimension 20 ± 0.25 mm.

3. Countersink the hole on both sides to a depth of 0.5 mm at an angle of 90 °, press in a pin with a diameter of 4-0.048 mm and a length of 19 mm and rivet it on both sides.

If it is impossible to restore the pump performance by repair, replace it with a new one.

With heavy wear of the oil pump parts, the pressure in the lubrication system decreases and noise appears. When disassembling the pump, check the elasticity of the pressure relief valve spring. The elasticity of the spring is considered sufficient if, to compress it up to 24 mm in height, it is necessary to apply forces (54 ± 2.45) N [(5.5 ± 0.25) kgf].

Repairing an oil pump usually consists of grinding the end caps, replacing gears and gaskets. When disassembling the pump, pre-drill the riveted head of the bushing fixing pin on its shaft, knock out the pin, remove the bushing and the pump cover. After that, remove the pump shaft together with the drive gear from the housing towards its cover. In the case of disassembling the drive gear and the roller, drill the pin with a 3 mm drill. Replace the drive and driven gears with chipped teeth, as well as with noticeable wear of the surface of the teeth with new ones. The drive and driven gears installed in the pump housing should be easily turned by hand by the drive shaft.If there is significant (more than 0.05 mm) wear on the ends of the gear wheels on the inner surface of the cover, grind it. Paronite gaskets with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm are installed between the cover, plate and pump casing. The use of paint or other sealing substances when installing the gasket, or the installation of a thicker gasket, is not allowed, as this will reduce the pump flow.

Rice. 1. Fastening the sleeve to the shaft of the oil pump

Assemble the pump taking into account the following:
1. Press a bushing onto the drive shaft, keeping the distance between the end of the drive shaft and the end of the sleeve 8 mm (fig. 1). In this case, the gap between the pump casing and the other end of the sleeve must be at least 0.5 mm.
2. Drill a 4 mm hole in the drive shaft and bushing, keeping the dimension (20 ± 0.25) mm.
3. Extend the hole on both sides to a depth of 0.5 mm at an angle of 90 °, press in a pin with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 19 mm and rivet it on both sides.

If the performance of the pump is restored by repair
is not possible, then replace it with a new one.

Install the oil pump drive and ignition distributor on the block in the following order:
1. Remove the spark plug from the first cylinder.
2. Install a compressor in the hole for the spark plug and turn the crankshaft with the starting handle until the arrow starts moving. This will happen at the beginning of the compression stroke in the first cylinder. You can also plug the candle hole with a paper wad or thumb. In this case, during the compression stroke, a wad will pop out or air will be felt from under the finger.
3. After making sure that compression has started, carefully rotate the crankshaft until the hole on the crankshaft pulley rim aligns with the pointer (pin) on the timing gear cover.
4. Turn the drive shaft so that the slot on its end for the distributor spike is located as indicated in the previous articles, and with a screwdriver, turn the oil pump shaft to the appropriate position.

Rice. 2. Tool for centering the oil pump

5. Carefully, without touching the gear wheels on the block walls, insert the drive into the block. After installing the drive, its roller should take the required position.

To reduce wear on the drive pivot joints, align the pump with the pump bore. To do this, use a mandrel (Fig. 2), fits snugly into the drive hole in the block and has a cylindrical shank with a diameter of 13 mm. Center the pump on the arbor shank and secure in this position.

Repair of the oil pump UAZ

Rice. 2.64. Fastening the sleeve to the oil pump shaft

Rice. 2.65. Tool for centering the oil pump

To reduce wear on the drive pivots, align the pump with the drive bore. To do this, use a mandrel (Fig. 2.65), which fits tightly into the hole for the drive in the block and has a cylindrical shank with a diameter of 13 mm. Center the pump on the arbor shank and secure in this position.

Repair of the UAZ cooling system pump

Rice. 2.66. Engine cooling system pump: a - cooling system pump 21-1307010-52; b - cooling system pump 421-1307010-01; 1 - nut; 2 - roller; 3 - pump casing; 4 - control hole for grease outlet; 5 - press lubricator; 6 - spacer sleeve; 7 - sealing washer; 8 - rubber cuff; 9 - spring; 10 - impeller; 11 - impeller mounting bolt; 12 - retaining ring; 13 - bearings; 14 - fan pulley hub; 15 - belt; 16 - pulley; 17 - fan; 18 - bolt; 19 - roller-ball bearing assembled with a roller; 20 - retainer; 21 - stuffing box; 22 - pump casing cover

Possible pump malfunctions (Fig. 2.66) may be: fluid flow through the impeller oil seal as a result of wear of the sealing washer or destruction of the rubber seal of the oil seal, bearing wear, breakage and cracks of the impeller.

Repair of the pump 21–1307010–52 of the cooling system

Rice. 2.67. Removing the pump mint

Eliminate fluid leakage from the pump by replacing the sealing washer and rubber cuff. To replace, remove the pump from the engine, disconnect it from the bracket, remove the impeller with special tool 71-1769 (Fig. 2.67), remove the sealing washer and the gland seal. To assemble the impeller seal, first insert the rubber seal assembly into the seal holder located on the pump housing, then the sealing washer and retaining ring. In this case, lubricate the part of the pump shaft, coupled with the rubber collar, with soap before installing the oil seal and pressing the impeller, and the end of the impeller, which is in contact with the sealing washer, with a thin layer of graphite grease. Before installing the stuffing box, check its end (the end of the sealing washer) for paint: when the stuffing box is compressed to a height of 13 mm, the end imprint should have at least two completely closed circles without breaks. Press the impeller onto the roller on a hand press until its hub stops against the flat end. In this case, the pump should rest on the table with the front end of the roller, and the force should be applied to the impeller hub. To replace the bearings or pump shaft, disassemble the pump completely in the following order: 1. Remove the impeller from the pump shaft and remove the sealing washer and rubber collar.

Rice. 2.68. Removing the pump pulley hub

2. Unscrew the nut securing the pulley hub and remove it using the tool, as shown in fig. 2.68.

Rice. 2.69. Rolling out the pump roller: 1 - pump casing; 2 - roller; 3 - stand

3. Remove the retaining ring of the bearings from the housing 1 (Fig. 2.69) of the pump and press out or knock out the roller 2 with the bearings from the housing with a copper hammer using a press, resting the front end of the housing on the support 3 with a hole for the passage of the bearings.

Rice. 2.70. Injection of the roller together with the bearing into the pump casing: 1 - roller; 2 - pump casing; 3 - correction; 4 - stand

Repair of fuel tanks
A possible malfunction of the tanks may be a leakage due to the formation of cracks, holes or other damage that occurs during operation. For repair, remove the tank from the car, clean it from dirt and rinse the outside. To identify a malfunction, immerse the tank in a bath of water and supply compressed air inside the tank at a pressure of 30 kPa (0.3 kgf / cm2). All tank openings must be pre-sealed. In places where the tightness is broken, air bubbles will come out of the tank. Mark all damage with paint. Then completely disassemble the tank, thoroughly rinse it from the inside with hot water to remove gasoline vapors and blow it with compressed air. Solder small cracks with soft solder. Apply metal patches to large cracks and holes. It is possible to seal cracks with epoxy pastes and layered fiberglass patches. After repair, test the tank for leaks. Repair small cracks in the fuel tank cap caused by impacts. Seal cracks with epoxy paste. After the paste has hardened, check the function of the plug valves.

Fuel pump repair
Possible pump malfunctions can be: violation of the tightness of the diaphragm and valves, decrease in elasticity or breakdown of the diaphragm spring, wear of pump drive parts. To disassemble the pump, remove the head cover 10 (see Fig. 2.19), the gasket 9 and the filter 8. Then unscrew the screws securing the head 14 of the housing, separate the head from the diaphragm. When removing the casing head, be careful not to damage the diaphragm as the diaphragm sticks to the flanges of the pump head and casing. Next, disassemble the drive mechanism, for which first press out the axle 19 of the drive levers and remove the lever 17 and the spring 16. Carefully release the diaphragm 6 and remove it and the spring 5 and the seal 3 with the washer 4. Disassembling the head, remove the inlet 7 and discharge valves. To do this, press out the valve cages. After disassembly, wash all parts in kerosene or unleaded gasoline, blow with compressed air, dry and check them.

Rice. 2.71. A device for assembling the diaphragm of the fuel pump: 1 - case; 2 - locating pin; 3 - pump diaphragm; 4 - key; 5 - handle; 6 - handle axis

The diaphragm must be airtight, its lacquer coating must be free of delamination. If you need to replace the blades of the diaphragm, carry out its assembly on a special tool (Fig. 2.71). The spring of the diaphragm should have a height of 50 + 5 mm in a free state, and 15 mm under a load of (5 ± 0.2) kgf. Check the elasticity of the pump spring on the 357 GARO device. Valves should be free from warpage, cracks, dents and visible signs of wear. The valve springs must press the valves against the seats tightly, without gaps. The pump drive levers and their axle must be free from excessive wear. The maximum clearance between the axis of the levers and its bushing, as well as between the bushing and the levers should be no more than 0.25 mm.

Rice. 2.72. Fuel pump drive lever

Particular attention should be paid to the wear of the working surfaces of the lever (Fig. 2.72) in the places of their contact. Before assembly, check that the flanges of the head and pump casing are in contact. The deviation from the plane should be no more than 0.08 mm. Lapping if necessary. To disassemble the Universal pump (see Fig. 2.20), unscrew the screws securing the cover 14, remove the cover and the filter element 8, unscrew the screws that secure the housing 13 to the bottom cover, separate them, remove the diaphragm assembly and the spring 7. Wash all the parts with gasoline and blow with compressed air. Check the integrity of the springs. Check for sticking valves. Check the diaphragms. They should not be cracked or hardened. After checking, replace all worn or damaged parts with new ones. Always replace the pump gaskets with new ones and lubricate with a thin layer of grease before installing. Assemble the pump in the reverse order of disassembly.

Rice. 2.73. Position of the fuel pump head when installing it

When installing the pump head B9V-B, its position relative to the body must correspond
rice. 2.73. Tighten the head fastening screws with the diaphragm pulled to the lowest position using the manual priming lever. This assembly provides the necessary sagging of the diaphragm and relieves it of excessive tensile forces, leading to a sharp reduction in the durability of the diaphragm. After assembly, check the pump on the model 527B or 577B GARO. At a camshaft rotational speed of 120 min – 1 and a suction height of 400 mm, the pump must ensure the start of fuel delivery no later than 22 s after switching on, create a pressure of 150–210 mm Hg. Art. and a vacuum of at least 350 mm Hg. Art. The pressure and vacuum generated by the pump must be maintained within the specified limits with the drive off for 10 s. The pump flow at a camshaft speed of 1800 min – 1 must be at least 120 l / h. If no dedicated pump tester is available, it can be tested directly on the engine as described in the Maintenance section.
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COLLEAGUE think what you advise. It is written in the article and with pictures is shown for those who do not understand why such an amateur performance with pressed pressure reducing valves ends when the engine is cold.
Toro is right. If everything is fine with the clearances, then the oil pump should not be fired.

Well, you also need to squeeze your head :))
I have not read articles, I have my own experience. Because of the tightened gearbox, more than one engine did not run out.

Well, you also need to squeeze your head :))
I have not read articles, I have my own experience. Because of the tightened gearbox, more than one engine did not run out.

The oil pump is removed for replacement or repair when the pressure in the lubrication system drops below the allowable value, when the gears make noise and the plunger of the pressure reducing valve is jammed.

You will need: socket wrenches "12", "14", hexagon "6", a screwdriver, a set of probes.

3. Remove the bolt of the additional bracket for securing the oil pump.

4.Remove the two bolts securing the pump to the cylinder block and remove the pump with oil receiver assembly.

5. Remove the mesh from the oil receiver by bending its edges.

7.. and disconnect the pump housing and oil receiver.

8. Remove the intermediate plate.

9. . remove the driven gear from the housing.

10. . and a pinion gear with a roller. If you need to remove the pinion from the roller, drive out the pin.

11. Remove the cotter pin to disassemble the pressure relief valve.

The pressure relief valve spring is fitted with an interference fit. To avoid injury and loss of shims, remove the cotter pin very carefully.

12. . and sequentially remove the adjusting washers from the oil receiver.

14. . and the plunger of the pressure reducing valve.

15. Flush the pump parts with gasoline and blow with compressed air.

16. If there is a wear from the gears on the intermediate plate, the plate must be sanded so that there are no traces of wear.

17. Inspect the case. If it is badly worn, replace the pump.

18. Check the ease of rotation of the gears in the pump housing. They should rotate freely.

19. Check the ease of movement of the relief valve plug in the body. It should move freely.

20. Remove dirt and rinse the oil receiver mesh with white spirit. If the mesh cannot be cleaned or is damaged, replace it.

21. Inspect the pressure relief valve spring. If cracks are visible on it, replace the spring. If possible, check the elasticity of the spring. The length of the spring in a free state should be 50 mm; to compress the spring to a length of 40 mm, a force of 43.5–48.5 N (4.35–4.85 kgf) must be applied. If the spring does not meet any of these requirements, replace it.

22. Measure the gap between the ends of the gears and the surface of the housing with a flat feeler, holding a ruler or vernier caliper to the surface. The gap should be 0.040–0.140 mm.

23. Measure the gap between the outer diameters of the gears and the housing with a flat feeler gauge. The gap should be 0.120-0.215 mm. If the end and radial clearances exceed the specified values, replace the body.

24. Measure the gap between the gear teeth with a flat feeler gauge. The gap should be 0.15 mm. If the clearance is greater than the specified value, replace the gears.

25. Replace worn or damaged parts. Observing maximum cleanliness during assembly, reassemble the pump in the reverse order of disassembly.

26. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Fill the engine with oil (see "Changing the engine oil and oil filter").

With heavy wear of the oil pump parts, the pressure in the lubrication system decreases and noise appears.

When disassembling the pump, check the elasticity of the pressure relief valve spring.

The elasticity of the spring is considered sufficient if a force (54 ± 2.45) N [(5.5 ± 0.25) kgf] is required to compress it up to 24 mm in height.

Repairing an oil pump usually consists of grinding the end caps, replacing gears and gaskets.

When disassembling the pump, pre-drill the riveted head of the bushing fixing pin 2 (see Fig. 1) on its shaft 1, knock out the pin, remove the bushing and the pump cover.

After that, remove the pump shaft together with the drive gear from the housing towards its cover.

In the case of disassembling the pinion gear and roller, drill the pin with a 3 mm drill.

Replace the drive and driven gears with chipped teeth, as well as with noticeable deformations of the surface of the teeth with new ones.

The drive and driven gears installed in the pump housing should be easily turned by hand by the drive shaft.

If on the inner surface of the cover there is a significant (more than 0.05 mm) depletion from the ends of the gears, grind it.

Paronite gaskets 0.3–0.4 mm thick are installed between the cover, plate and pump casing.

The use of shellac, paint or other sealing substances when installing the gasket, or installing a thicker gasket, is not allowed, as this will reduce the pump flow.

Assemble the pump taking into account the following:

Rice. 2.Fastening the bushing to the oil pump shaft

1. Press the bushing onto the drive shaft, making sure that the distance between the end of the drive shaft and the end of the sleeve is 8 mm (Fig. 2). In this case, the gap between the pump casing and the other end of the sleeve must be at least 0.5 mm.

2. Drill a hole with a diameter of 4 + 0.03–0.05 mm in the drive shaft and in the bushing, keeping the dimension (20 ± 0.25) mm.

3. Countersink the hole on both sides to a depth of 0.5 mm at an angle of 90 °, press in a pin with a diameter of 4-0.048 mm and a length of 19 mm and rivet it on both sides.

If it is impossible to restore the pump performance by repair, replace it with a new one.

Install the oil pump drive and ignition distributor on the block in the following order:

1. Remove the spark plug from the first cylinder.

2. Install a compressor in the hole for the spark plug and turn the crankshaft with the starting handle until the arrow starts moving. This will happen at the beginning of the compression stroke in the first cylinder.

You can plug the candle hole with a paper wad or your thumb. In this case, during the compression stroke, a wad will pop out or air will be felt from under the finger.

3. After making sure that compression has started, carefully rotate the crankshaft until the hole on the crankshaft pulley rim aligns with the pointer (pin) on the timing gear cover.

4. Turn the drive shaft so that the slot on its end for the distributor awl is located as shown in fig. 1 B, and turn the oil pump shaft using a screwdriver to the position shown in Fig. 1 B.

5. Carefully, without touching the gear wheels on the block walls, insert the drive into the block.

After installing the drive in place, its roller should take the position shown in fig. 1 A.

Rice. 3. Tool for centering the oil pump

To reduce wear on the drive pivots, align the pump with the drive bore. To do this, use a mandrel (fig. 3) that fits snugly into the drive bore in the block and has a 13 mm diameter cylindrical shank.

Center the pump on the arbor shank and secure in this position.

Drain the oil (see Changing the oil and oil filter).
Remove the oil pan (see Removing the oil pan).

Using a 12 key, unscrew the two bolts securing the pump to the crankshaft main bearing cover.

A gasket is installed between the pipe and the block.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pipe to the pump.

Remove the pipe and gasket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the oil intake mesh ...

Use a screwdriver to bend the antennae of the locking plates ...

... and with the "10" head unscrew the four bolts connecting the cover to the pump casing.

We take out the bolts.

... and, having marked the relative position of the parts, remove the oil intake, taking care not to damage the gasket.

We take out the pressure reducing valve with a spring from the oil intake.

Remove the cover from the pump housing.

Shims are installed between the body and the cover.

We assemble the pump by lubricating its parts with engine oil and cleaning the oil intake mesh from deposits with a solvent.

When installing the pump, we align the slot in the pump roller ...

Assemblies, components and spare parts for UAZ Patriot, UAZ Hunter, UAZ-31512, 31514, 31519, UAZ-469, UAZ-3303, 3909, UAZ-452, 3962, UAZ vehicles-2206, 3741

The lubrication system of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 engine is combined - under pressure and spray. The oil pressure in the lubrication system when the car is moving at a speed of 50 km / h should be in the range of 2-4 kgf / cm2.

It can increase with a cold, unheated engine to 4.5-5 kgf / cm2 and decrease in hot summer weather to 1.5 kgf / cm2. At low idle speed (600 rpm), the oil pressure should be at least 0.8 kgf / cm2.

To control the oil pressure on the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 engine, a sensor is installed, which is triggered at a pressure in the system of 0.4-0.8 kgf / cm2.In the cockpit, on the instrument panel, there is a warning light for emergency oil pressure, the burning of which in operating modes indicates a malfunction of the sensor or the vehicle lubrication system.

Fig. 1. Lubrication system diagram for UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

1 - oil pump; 2 - crankcase drain plug; 3 - oil receiver; 4 - pressure reducing valve; 5 - hole for lubricating the distribution gears; 6 - oil cooler; 7 — oil cooler valve; 8 - oil pressure indicator sensor; 4 - sensor of the warning lamp of emergency oil pressure; 10 - full-flow engine oil filter

The lubrication system UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 (Fig. 1) has two valves: a pressure reducing valve (in the oil pump cover) and a bypass valve (in the oil filter). Both valves are adjusted at the factory and do not require adjustment in operation.

An oil cooler is provided to cool the oil in the lubrication system. It must be turned on (by opening the tap) when the air temperature is above 20 ° C.

However, regardless of the air temperature, when driving under severe conditions with a heavy load and high engine speed, the oil cooler must also be turned on.

Oil pan UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 - stamped steel. The plane of the oil sump connector with the block is sealed with cork gaskets. The gaskets of the front and rear parts of the oil sump are abundantly moistened before installing them in the grooves of the crankcase to prevent their breakage.

Oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 (Fig. 2) - gear type, located inside the oil sump and attached to the cover of the fourth main bearing. A paronite gasket 8 with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm is installed between the body 5 and the plate 9 of the pump.

Installing a thicker gasket during pump repairs is unacceptable, as this will reduce the pump's performance and the pressure generated by it.

Fig. 2. Oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

1 - guide sleeve; 2 - pressure reducing valve; 3 - valve spring; 4 - roller; 5 - case; 6 - driving gear; 7 - driven gear; 8 - gasket; 9 - plate; 10 - oil pump cover; 11 - oil receiver housing; 12 - grids; 13 — spring

Repair of the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

With a large wear of the parts of the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514, the pressure in the lubrication system decreases and noise appears. Since the oil pressure in the lubrication system depends on the state of the pressure reducing valve, check the elasticity of the pressure reducing valve spring before disassembling the pump.

The elasticity of the spring is considered sufficient if it is necessary to apply a force of 4.35-4.85 kgf to compress it to a length of 40 mm. Repairing oil pumps usually involves grinding the end caps, replacing gears and gaskets.

When disassembling the pump, the riveted head of the bushing fastening pin on its roller is pre-drilled, the pin is knocked out, the bushing and the pump cover are removed, and then the pump roller together with the drive gear is removed from the pump housing from the side of its cover.

In spare parts, the drive gear of the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 comes assembled with a roller, which greatly facilitates the repair of the oil pump. In the case of disassembling the drive gear and the roller, the pin is drilled out with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm.

When using these parts or one of them, the hole for the pin in the roller and gear is increased to a size of 3.5 + 0.055 mm. Accordingly, its end to a width of 4.15 mm and more is replaced with a new one.

In the case of replacing the pump roller with a new one, a drive gear is pressed onto it, keeping the size from the end of the roller with a slot to the upper end of the drive gear 63 + 0.12 mm.

The hole for the pin in the gear and shaft of the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 with a diameter of 3 + 0.055 mm and a depth of 19 ± 0.5 mm is drilled after the gear is pressed onto the roller. The pin should have a diameter of 3-0.04 mm and a length of 18 mm.

The drive and driven gears are replaced with new ones with wear. Installed in the oil pump housing, the drive and driven gears should rotate easily by hand when rotating them by the drive shaft.

If on the inner surface of the cover there is a significant (more than 0.05 mm) depletion from the ends of the gears, it is polished "as clean". A paronite gasket with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm is installed between the cover and the pump casing.

When assembling the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 pump, observe the following sequence. Press the bushing onto the drive shaft, keeping the distance between the end of the drive shaft and the end of the sleeve 8 mm. In this case, the gap between the pump casing and the other end of the sleeve must be at least 0.5 mm.

Drill a hole with a diameter of 4 +0.03 mm in the drive shaft and in the bushing, keeping the dimension 20 ± 0.025 mm from the end of the bushing. Countersink the hole on both sides to a depth of 0.5 mm at an angle of 90 °, press in a pin with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 19 mm and rivet it on both sides.

When installing the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514, it is recommended to use a mandrel. The pump is centered on a 13 mm mandrel shank and locked in this position.

Oil receiver UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 - stationary, attached to the cover of the oil pump (see Fig. 2). In the lower part of the oil receiver, a safety screen 12 is installed, which does not allow relatively large mechanical particles to enter the pump. The mesh has a large surface, which provides a vehicle mileage without cleaning up to 80-100 thousand km.

The drive of the oil pump UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 (Fig. 3) is carried out from the camshaft by a pair of helical gears. The drive gear 4 is made in one piece with the camshaft.

The driven gear 12 is steel, secured with a pin on the drive shaft 8. The upper end of the drive shaft has a groove offset by 0.8 mm to one side, into which the ignition distributor shank fits.

Fig. 3. Oil pump and ignition distributor drive UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

1 - oil pump roller; 2 - bushing; 3 - intermediate roller; 4 - drive gear; 5 - distributor; 6 — drive body; 7 - persistent sleeve; 8 - drive roller; 9 - gasket; 10 - cylinder block; 11 - thrust washer; 12 - driven gear; 13 - pin

If for some reason the drive of the oil pump and ignition distributor UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 was removed from the engine, then to ensure the correct position of the distributor, the drive must be installed on the block in the following order.

Unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder and, covering the spark plug hole with your finger, turn the crankshaft with the starting handle until the air starts to come out from under your finger. This will happen at the beginning of the compression stroke.

After making sure that compression has started, carefully rotate the crankshaft until the hole in the crankshaft pulley rim aligns with the pin on the timing gear cover.

Turn the oil pump drive shaft UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 so that the slot at its end for the distributor spike is located as shown in the figure, and the oil pump shaft with a screwdriver is turned to the position shown in Fig. 3, III.

Carefully, being careful not to touch the gears on the block walls, insert the drive into the block. After installing the drive in place, its roller should take the position shown in Fig. 3.

Between the drive roller and the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 pump roller there is an intermediate roller 3, which is hingedly connected to them. This allows some freedom in pump installation.

But to reduce wear in the drive and to ensure flawless operation, the pump is installed as coaxial as possible with the drive bore. A mandrel is recommended for this. The oil pump is centered on the mandrel shank and secured in this position.

Reducing valve - In order to provide the required oil pressure in the line when the UAZ-469 engine is operating in any mode, as well as to compensate for the oil consumption through the bearings that increases with engine wear, the oil pump has excess capacity.

To prevent an increase in oil pressure in the system above that required, a pressure reducing valve is installed in the covers of the UAZ-469 oil pump (see Fig. 2). When the pressure in the lubrication system rises above the permissible level, the oil squeezes out valve 2 and the excess oil is discharged into the pump suction channel.

Oil filter UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 - non-separable, full-flow (Fig. 4). The non-separable filter housing contains the main and additional filter elements, bypass valve 2 and check valve 8.

When the filter element is clogged with a high viscosity of oil (in the cold season, at the time of starting the engine), the bypass valve, compressing spring 3, passes the oil into the oil line. The valve is designed for a pressure drop of 0.6-0.75 kgf / cm2.

Fig. 4. Oil filter UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

1 - filter housing; 2 - bypass valve; 3 - bypass valve spring; 4 — filter element; 5 - a sealing gasket; b - inlet holes; 7 — outlet; 8 - check valve

The check valve 8 prevents oil from flowing out of the filter after stopping the engine, thereby preventing short-term "oil starvation" of the engine during its next start. The check valve opens at a pressure of 0.03-0.07 kgf / cm2.

Oil cooler UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 is installed in front of the radiator louver and is attached to the sides of the louver. The oil intake into the radiator is carried out from the oil filter. The position of the valve handle along the hose corresponds to the open position of the valve, and across - to the closed position.

Fig. 5 - Scheme of crankcase ventilation UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514

The ventilation of the engine crankcase (Fig. 5) is open, it acts due to the vacuum near the lower end of the exhaust pipe 2, which is created while the vehicle is moving.

Air from the atmosphere enters through the crankcase ventilation filter 1 into the rocker arm cover, and from its cavity through the holes for the rods into the engine crankcase. From the crankcase, air is sucked out together with gasoline vapors and exhaust gases through the exhaust pipe 2.

The oil level in the crankcase of the UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 engine must be maintained between the "P" and "O" marks of the oil dipstick. It is necessary to measure the oil level 2-3 minutes after stopping the warm engine.

The oil in the crankcase must be changed according to the lubrication chart with the engine warm. Change the oil filter after 6-8 thousand kilometers at the same time as changing the oil in the engine.

Caring for the crankcase ventilation system UAZ-469, UAZ-31512, 31514 is reduced to checking the tightness of the joints and cleaning the cover of the pusher box and the exhaust tube from resinous deposits during TO-2.

If an increased oil consumption is detected, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the crankcase ventilation system. The crankcase ventilation filter should be washed in kerosene or gasoline and dried, then dip it in oil (for the engine) and let the oil drain.