In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ZMZ 405 oil pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Use a screwdriver to bend the antennae of the mesh frame.
... and remove it along with the mesh.
Using the "12" head, unscrew the four bolts.
... and remove the pump inlet.
We take out the cotter pin from the hole
... and remove the adjusting washers with a spring from the channel.
... as well as the plunger of the pressure reducing valve.
We assemble the pump in reverse order, lubricating the rubbing parts with engine oil.
After disassembling the engine, we thoroughly clean the parts of carbon deposits, remnants of old gaskets and sealant, rinse with gasoline.
We evaluate the technical condition of engine parts by visual inspection and their micrometer size. We replace damaged or excessively worn engine parts with new ones or repair them.
When repairing a cylinder-piston group, the required clearance between the cylinders and the pistons is ensured by boring and honing the cylinders (at the service station) for previously purchased pistons of the same repair size.
We install the engine block on the stand in an inverted position. Wiping the main bearing beds again with a clean cloth.
... we install liners with a groove and a hole for oil supply in the bed of the main bearings.
On both sides of the middle bed, we put two persistent half rings without protrusions, turning them with transverse grooves to the cheeks of the crankshaft.
Lubricate the liners and main journals of the crankshaft with clean engine oil.
We put the crankshaft in the bed of the cylinder block.
Having installed the liners in the main bearing caps, lubricate them with clean engine oil and place the caps on the crankshaft journals.
Video (click to play).
... in accordance with the numbers stamped on them from 1 to 5, starting from the front of the block. The third cover is not labeled.
We insert two persistent half rings with protrusions into its grooves.
We lubricate, we attach the bolts and, turning them evenly, we press the covers into the seats of the cylinder block.
The right and left lid stops have different lengths, so the inverted lid will not fit into the seat.
Tighten the bolts of the main bearing caps to the prescribed torque (see Appendices, p. 325).
We turn the crankshaft by hand. The rotation should be free and even without jamming with little effort. The axial play of the crankshaft must not exceed 0.36 mm.
Otherwise, we check the correctness of the assembly, disassemble and troubleshoot.
We change the oil seal in the rear cover of the cylinder block.
We install the cover with a new gasket in place.
We carry out the selection of piston pins for pistons by size groups. After the finger has been matched to the piston, we select the connecting rod on the finger.
Correctly fitted finger.
... should enter the head under the pressure of the thumb.
... and do not fall out of the connecting rod head when the pin is in the vertical position.
The connecting rods and pistons must be oriented as follows before assembly with the piston pin.
... the protrusion on the lower end of the connecting rod must be on the same side.
as is the word "FRONT" on the outside of the piston boss.
When assembling a piston with a connecting rod, it is necessary to heat the piston to a temperature of 60-80 ° C. Lubricate your finger with engine oil. We introduce the upper connecting rod head between the piston bosses.
... and press the finger into the holes of the piston and connecting rod using a copper hammer or a soft metal mandrel, holding the piston in weight.
After the piston has cooled down, we check the rocking of the connecting rod on the finger, while the finger in the piston bosses should not rotate. We install the retaining rings in the grooves of the piston bosses.
Before installing the piston rings, we select them according to the cylinders.
The compression rings installed in the cylinder to a depth of 20-30 mm should have a gap in the lock of 0.3-0.6 mm, and the oil scraper ring 0.5-1.0 mm.
After installing the piston rings on the pistons, we spread their locks at an angle of 120 ° (approximately) to each other (the joint of the spring expander of the oil scraper ring is located on the side opposite to the ring lock).
We insert new liners into the connecting rod and its cover. We lubricate them, as well as piston rings, cylinder walls and connecting rod journals with clean engine oil.
We put the device on the piston and squeeze the rings, "helping" them to compress by light tapping on the squeeze with the wooden handle of the hammer.
We turn the piston with the inscription "BEFORE" on the boss to the front of the block and insert it into the cylinder, the number of which coincides with the number stamped on the lower head of the connecting rod and its cover.
Tapping through a wooden spacer on the bottom of the piston, we sink it into the cylinder until it stops, controlling the advance of the connecting rod to the crankshaft journal.
Install the connecting rod cover.
The number stamped on the cover must match the connecting rod number and be on the same side. In this case, the projection on the connecting rod cover is directed towards the front of the engine. In the same way, we install the remaining pistons with connecting rods into the block. We tighten the nuts of the connecting rod cap bolts to the prescribed torque (see Appendices, p. 325). We turn the crankshaft by the flywheel. The movement should be smooth, but the force will increase (in comparison with the force of rotation of the "bare" shaft).
Installing the oil pump
Turning the crankshaft, set the mark of the crankshaft sprocket opposite the alignment mark on the cylinder block.
Install the lower chain damper (see "Dismantling the timing mechanism drive", p. 136).
We assemble the oil pump drive (see "Dismantling the oil pump drive", p. 139) by lubricating the drive gears, intermediate shaft bushings and the shaft itself with engine oil.
Before installing, we dip both chains in engine oil.
We put the lower chain on the crankshaft sprocket and the intermediate shaft driven sprocket.
We install the sprocket with a chain on the intermediate shaft in a position at which the alignment marks coincide (the chain on the side of the damper must be tensioned).
We tighten the bolts of the intermediate shaft sprockets and bend the edges of the locking plate; install the axle and lever with an asterisk for the chain tensioner; we put the upper chain on the small sprocket of the intermediate shaft (see "Dismantling the timing mechanism drive", p. 136).
We change the oil seal in the front cover of the block (see "Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal", p. 128) and install the cover with a new gasket and generator bracket. We tighten and tie the upper timing chain to the generator bracket.
We put a new gasket and install the oil pan.
We carry out further assembly of the engine in the reverse order of disassembly.
