DIY phone matrix repair

In detail: do-it-yourself phone matrix repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Let's consider one of the main reasons for the failure of a mobile phone: "various liquids hitting the board" does not turn on, a white screen or some buttons do not work. Of course, before opening the case, you need to know the cause of the breakdown. If one of the above is written, read on.

We open it, conduct a visual inspection for the presence of corrosion, dirt and other unnecessary substances.

First of all, we remove all plastic parts, in general, everything that can be removed is detached. Do not forget about the film with membrane-type keyboard buttons, we also peel it off (this is on other models, on ours the keyboard board is disconnected).

We take a cleansing liquid (such as alcohol, Kolosha gasoline, cologne), I use Isoprapanol, it does not have an unpleasant odor like Kolosha.

We take a toothbrush, who doesn't mind a new one, dip it in alcohol, and clean the board until it looks like new - especially the contacts for the display, the USB connector. Do not press too hard, some components may be demolished.

We cleaned it, now we take the flux, take a brush, smear it with flux near the microcircuits (more), put the hair dryer at 325 degrees and warm up all the microcircuits in a circle and in the middle, the distance from the outlet of the tip (nozzle) of the hair dryer to the surface of the microcircuit is 1.5 cm. it is better and more economical to take a medium diameter.

We heat to such an extent that the tin melts at the components located around the perimeter (adjust the temperature to 330 degrees). Very, very neatly shake the microcircuit with a needle so that it moves a little. It is important not to wobble too much, otherwise it will slip off the contacts, and so on with all the microcircuits not glued (without compound). We also warm up the filters, in order to remove the flux, you can use an ultrasonic bath, but we will do it differently.

Video (click to play).

We pour alcohol under all the microcircuits without a compound, hold it for a little so that the alcohol has time to collect all the dirt. Now we take the hair dryer from the soldering station and blow it under the microcircuits. Blowing alcohol out from under the microcircuits in this way, we do not need it there. The temperature of the hair dryer should be for warming up, not for soldering, it is in the range from 260 to 290 degrees, depending on which station.

Done, let's move on. Now let cool and collect. If the breakage is fixed after assembly, then "Hurray, everything is ready." If, nevertheless, the white screen and non-short buttons do not work, you need to replace the filters or put jumpers, but that's another story. The most important parts that can fail after water or after a fall (impact) are filters (so-called glasses), they look like this.

You need to do the same with them as with the rest of the microcircuits, only solder these places more carefully. Warm up, stir, about the flux (do not forget to apply) with it, the components will not get off the contacts. Now everything seems to be. What we have done only applies to breakage due to moisture getting inside the phone. Other breakdowns, such as "does not charge" or "the network does not catch" - this cannot be fixed, components will need to be replaced. More about this in future publications. Best regards, OPA.

3 Pages
1
2
3
→

You cannot create a new topic
You cannot reply to the topic

Active member

(sorry for the long text, who cannot master - go straight down)

After some deliberation, I bought an 8 ″ car TV set:
iera_rtr_750zx /
(by the way, I really liked the performance, the package bundle, the picture is nothing, 16: 9 screen format, resolution 480 * 234 pixels)

drove a couple of days and decided that it was time to lose the guarantee />

I picked everything up to the backlit matrix block, trying to gently bend the glass.it turns out with the upper part, but holds something from the bottom. I see - a thin strip of double scotch. apparently so that the glass does not crawl over the plastic frame (although everything fits snugly so)

Well, I try to bend it back slowly, I cut it off with a thin knife. Well, in the process, the glass says to me "crunch!" ... chill down the back. I bend it back carefully - uh-uu. visually, everything is intact, with the exception of a small fragment of 1x1 mm glass remaining on the scotch tape. fac. I overdid it with a knife. but, I think, it is good that the chip did not reach the thin tracks along the edge, but only partially damaged the thick (3mm) track-tire running along the very edge. then the contact must be.

I turn on everything in this disassembled state - 2 thirds of the screen works, the rest does not work - just the white part, that is, nothing controls the crystals and they are all in an open state. ass! />

I take off the panel, I start to look under a magnifying glass - a crack of 2-3 mm started from the chip, the thick tire clearly opened, then thin tracks of 0.5-1 mm went further. Damn, if I smoked, then at that moment I would have smoked half a pack at a time, but the fact of the matter is that I am a non-smoker! /> in short, I'm all on treason.

climbed to look in the Internet on the subject of "repair, restoration of LCD matrices."
Damn, all such kind people come across. after an hour's search, it was practically drilled in me that "the matrices are almost always not subject to restoration and their repair consists in a complete replacement." no, well, it is clear that repairmen of laptops and PDAs write about their experience, but what do I think, really no one even tried to attach the loop torn off from the glass substrate back? I can't even believe it. although this is their business, no one is going to share secrets - let the client order the panel, at a price slightly lower than the device.

so how do you restore the track? although I am a radio installer by professional education, my experience in soldering here clearly rested. : unsure:

in short, motorists helped me. on one of the forums I came across the question of how to fix the heater tracks on the glass. and so they advised a certain composition, such as an electrically conductive glue. and now I'm flying to the auto shop! 4 sellers screwed me up, the fifth made me happy - he sold a special set and it says “to restore the heater threads”.

I will not torment you - I restored a thick track and it all worked!

the composition comes in two syringes - in a thin brown adhesive composition, in a thicker one there is a filler, a paste based on silver. it is written that this composition diffuses into the glass, I was very inspired.

You mix all this, mix 3 + 5 ml of the mixture, it took only a match head. cleaned the track sealant. first I took off the main layer with a razor, and then I thought, "Well, nafig her, we have already gone through this with a chute!" ... I took a blister from the tablets, made a cut and got a kind of plastic scalpels, with which I successfully cleaned up the tracks and without fear cleared 1 cm of space for a future operation.

then, I covered up all living tracks with tape, left 2 mm of space between the tape and the edge of the glass. I smeared the composition with a toothpick, leveled it with a razor a little higher than the tape. according to the instructions, left for 30 minutes. then he carefully removed the tape. the composition grabbed, but allowed the remnants to be removed. it turned out to be a nice strip. left for a day.

was in doubt if he did everything right. the tracks did not shine! Well, I did not see the contact, and they did not call the tester when I touched the probes in a few millimeters on the working segment. after I pasted it, I thought that maybe it was necessary to clean the contacts? but this is sputtering on the glass, what kind of contacts are there. some kind of pink material, unlike copper.

HERE! Of course, there is no need to rush into operations with the matrix, because they are still made not by our military factories />, but by our Chinese brothers. 1 mm glass plate in total thickness. and of course, in no case should you use metal tools on the glass. only plastic or wooden!

thus - "his example to other science"
I hope I'm not writing this in vain!

If your TV has a faulty matrix, first of all, you should contact us to find out whether the matrix is recreational or replace, as well as the cost and delivery time of the matrix. Call us.

Before you call or ask a question about the cost of replacing the matrix, so as not to waste your time and yours, first find out the model of the TV, since there are many modifications of LCD, LED or LCD matrix even within one TV model. Thus, there are hundreds of titles for each screen size. It is IMPOSSIBLE to provide you with information without a model.

MODEL NUMBER can be found on the sticker on the back of the TV. The so-called nameplate. Looks like that:

Do not try to read the model number from the box or documentation. Often, the model number is partially reflected there, or it is written for several models with different screen sizes at once. The information will be inaccurate, and you and I will just waste time.

The manufacturer is working hard to ensure that the user cannot easily resolve the issue of replacing the cracked screen.

Therefore, in nature Attention! THERE ARE NO UNIVERSAL MATRIXES FOR ANY TV.

Each model has a well-defined matrix model.

Moreover, even in the same TV model, depending on the batch of goods, there may be several different variations of the matrix. And these variations are not interchangeable. Depending on the type of matrix, the TV must be programmed for a specific version of the matrix.

We receive many calls every day with a request to restore, repair the screen (aka a matrix, aka a panel) after a blow. Definitely, if there was a blow to the screen, or pressure on the screen, or the TV fell, then 99.9% of the screen is broken. Even if there are no cracks and debris outside. The design of the matrix is such that from the outside it is pasted over with a special polarizing film that does not allow you to see the cracks from the outside, and at the same time, protects the user from injury. It is impossible to restore the matrix damaged in this way. In other words, she is no longer recreational. In this case, there is only one way - replacing the LCD, LED or LCD matrix with a whole one.

In some cases, it is possible. When water gets on the electrical lines and contacts of the TV matrix, a galvanic reaction occurs. This triggers the processes of corrosion and dissolution of current-carrying paths, short circuits also often occur in different circuits and this can ultimately lead to the destruction of the chips on the matrix. If water gets on the screen and flows down it, or any other liquid gets inside the TV, even a small amount. Unplug the TV set from the wall outlet as soon as possible and contact a specialist in matrices. Do not delay the repair, various liquids will sooner or later dissolve part of the current-carrying paths of the matrix. The faster the restoration is carried out correctly, the greater the chance to save money and restore your screen.

The matrix of LCD, LED or LCD TVs is very fragile and can easily be damaged or broken if pressed or hit. In some cases, the picture on such a TV is partially or completely missing. It is impossible to restore the matrix damaged by pressure or impact. In this case, it is only possible to replace the LCD, LED or LCD matrix with a whole one.

You can replace the TV matrix with us. We do not recommend changing the matrix yourself, not due to the fact that we are afraid of losing you as an installation client. This is simply done in order to prevent its damage with an incorrect, illiterate connection. Different types of matrices have a different supply voltage, the location of the power pins in the connector also differs from type to type of matrix. Also, different matrix models use different positions of the color bits in LVDS streams and other tricks invented by TV manufacturers.In this regard, it is often necessary to resort to changing the settings in the service menu of TVs, accessible only to specialists.

Matrices are often out of stock. Usually supplied on request. Therefore, it is rare where they can be put up for sale. If you nevertheless find a matrix on sale for your device, then you are in luck. However, it will be very difficult for the user himself to check not only the operability, but also to make sure whether it is new or not, since the matrix does not work separately without the modules in the TV. And, obviously, its quality and performance is questionable, and there is a risk of acquiring a useless thing. When you purchase a matrix with installation, this danger disappears. You see a working TV!

Read also: DIY garden wheel repair

LCD panels are not cheap spare parts, so they are delivered to order, just for your TV. Rather, you will need an advance payment when ordering a matrix. Replacing an LCD matrix is difficult even for specialists, you need to know the type of matrix and how to connect it, supply voltage and other technical details. Therefore, we do not recommend changing the matrix yourself, since you can not only damage it, but, most likely, without knowledge of how to connect, and, often, in programming, you will not be able to make it work.

Attention! We do not sell liquid crystal matrices for self-replacement to users (due to the technical features described below when installing a new matrix).

IMPORTANT! Often users think that replacing a die means simply unscrewing a few screws, taking out the broken die, putting in a new one, restoring all connections and ... voila. And as they say, Life is Udalas. However, the manufacturer is working hard to make it harder for a TV with a damaged screen to work. In addition to the uniqueness of the matrices in certain models, the manufacturer has developed various obstacles. Even in the same TV model, depending on the batch of goods, there may be several different variations of the matrix. And these variations are not interchangeable. Depending on the type of matrix, the TV must be programmed for a specific version of the matrix after its mechanical correspondence. How will the client carry out programming if, nevertheless, with God's help, he was able to successfully install the matrix without mechanically damaging it? Naturally, for this reason, we had to abandon the sale of matrices without installation, because users cannot do programming on their own in order to avoid claims from buyers later.

The cost of repair for replacing the matrix depends on the TV model

IMPORTANT! Certain TV models have different types of matrix. Without a TV model, we will not be able to answer which matrix is installed in your TV model, respectively, to say the cost of repair. Therefore, we ask you for the TV model number.

I am interested in the successful experience of repairing the matrix, except for replacing the lamp.

And with the fall - this is a special case, which is now in front of me.

Thank you for your interest.

_________________
Anything that cannot be programmed in assembly language has to be soldered.

I can sell EVERYTHING, but whether the price suits you.

At the expense of know-how. In the late 90s Tefal was introduced to us as a know-how “in a frying pan”.
But in fact: the first mention that I have met, A.E. Chichibanin "organic" already in 1954, the publication and achievement of Russian chemists.
Maybe not in the subject, but “surprisingly close. "

And the matrices are really relevant. I have little experience, but eat from scratch.
I don't hope for free, I hope to find understanding.

_________________
Anything that cannot be programmed in assembly language has to be soldered.

I can sell EVERYTHING, but whether the price suits you.

And how do you determine, if not a secret, which capacitor is faulty - by desoldering everything or on the board?

_________________
Anything that cannot be programmed in assembly language has to be soldered.

I can sell EVERYTHING, but whether the price suits you.

_________________
Anything that cannot be programmed in assembly language has to be soldered.

I can sell EVERYTHING, but whether the price suits you.

If you have stripes on the monitor - do not rush to throw away the matrix, it can be reanimated!
Know-how. Anyway.

[info] sergiokrm
February 12th, 16:59

A couple of hours ago, I updated the previous post about the 19 ″ matrix, after that, during the experiments, I found out one important thing. It turns out that decoder cables, torn from the matrix board, can be returned quite easily (in the case when the cable has come off the glass, it is unlikely that anything can be done). How to attach it back? It's very simple - to SOLDER! 🙂

In order:
1. We separate the broken train completely.
2. We wash off with acetone the remnants of the conductive glue with which the loop was originally glued.
3. Abundantly apply a good flux to both the ribbon cable and the board (I have RMA-223-TF) and tinker with a soldering iron using the small “miniwave” tip, which I wrote about earlier. The tip collects all excess solder on its surface - there are no closed contacts.
4. We wash off all the flux. Small raised beads of solder should remain on the previously gold-plated contacts. It must be done carefully in order to get the same tubercles as possible.
5. We apply a very small amount of the same flux, combine the contacts on the loop and on the board, evenly heat posting.php? Mode = quote & f = 181 & p = 12617 with a thermal air. The solder melts, the plume floats and, under the action of the surface tension of the solder, finds its place by itself (like a BGA chip). At the same time, the plume softens from heating and takes on an ideally flat contact surface (when it is first separated, it is deformed). Due to the transparency of the loop, it is possible to draw conclusions about the presence of short circuits between adjacent contacts. I did it the first time without them. The train is made of a material similar in appearance and properties to polyamide or Kapton tape. At the melting point of the solder, it simply becomes softer, but does not change its linear dimensions.

Tried it on a broken matrix with nothing to lose. Now I will try on a working, but defective matrix from the previous post. I will try to take a photo.

Once again I was convinced of the need to purchase a microscope.
Taken from the site of Sergey from Kramatorsk
I wanted to send it yesterday, but the site does not allow me to write messages often

Maybe someone else would have repaired the matrix yesterday.

The touch screen of a modern smartphone is a fragile and very important thing. You can say in the style of "Captain Obvious" that if it is damaged, the phone becomes impossible to use, but people are more interested in something else: is it possible to replace the screen on the phone by yourself? Considering that the service center usually charges at least 1000 hryvnia for this procedure (even for a budget device) - the issue of savings becomes acute. We will try to find out about the intricacies of the replacement below.

Any material should start with theory. If you came here from a search engine, entering the query "how to replace the screen on a phone with your own hands" - new knowledge will definitely not hurt. If the purpose of reading the material is to obtain some new information, in addition to those learned earlier, this subheading need not be studied.

The touchscreen display of a modern smartphone is a complex device consisting of several functional elements. The main ones are the matrix and the touchscreen, frames, keys, backlighting elements and, of course, loops, in the amount of 1 to 3-4 pieces, can also be present.

Matrix - a liquid crystal or light-emitting diode panel, which contains an array of pixels that form an image. On the front side it is covered with a very thin layer of glass, on the back it has a stainless steel case. It is also equipped with a ribbon cable for connection to the board, it may have other small elements on it.

Touchscreen (sensor) - a transparent glass touch panel that covers the entire front of the smartphone. It is a thin sheet of glass (less often - plastic), on which a transparent layer of conductive material is applied on the inside, and oleophobic spraying on the outside (optional).

In some cases (recently - more and more often), the touchscreen and the matrix of the smartphone are one whole. They are delivered as a single module and change together. This design is called OGS.

OGS screen (from the English one glass solution - a solution with one glass) - a type of smartphone screen, in which the sensor and the matrix are connected together in the form of a "sandwich". A distinctive feature of OGS-matrices is a very thin layer of coating that protects pixels, since the main element of their protection is the sensor.

Whether it is possible to replace the phone screen on your own depends on the reader's ability to work with tools and the type of matrix. Some smartphones lend themselves very well to home repair, while with others, not even every SC master can handle it. We will discuss below which screens can be replaced even without experience, and which ones should be entrusted to a specialist.

The touchscreen of a smartphone is the first to take a hit when dropped, so it suffers more often than a matrix. Therefore, the number of calls to the SC caused by glass damage is greater than the number of cases of a broken matrix. However, this is not always encouraging, since replacing one touchscreen sometimes costs more than a complete module. This situation is caused precisely by the use of OGS screens.

To divide the OGS-display into a touchscreen and a matrix, to replace a damaged sensor, you will not be able to do with simple tools (suction cup, screwdrivers, knife, pick). Replacing the sensor on the OGS screen in the SC conditions occurs in approximately the following order:

Disassembly of the phone.
Removing the module from the smartphone case.
Fixing and warming up the screen on a special stand.
Separation of the matrix and the touchscreen with a special thin nylon thread.
Cleaning the matrix from glue.
Placement of the matrix in a special stencil, application of photopolymer transparent glue.
Installing a touch screen into a stencil, removing excess glue between it and the matrix.
Irradiation of the gluing with a UV lamp to polymerize the glue.
Installing the module into the case.
Assembling a smartphone.

As you can see, without special equipment (a heating stand, stencils, a transparent photopolymer and a UV lamp), it will not be possible to replace glass on an OGS screen on your own. Unfortunately, now such screens are installed in most smartphones Samsung, LG, Sony, Xiaomi, Meizu and, in general, almost all devices, more expensive than 3000 UAH. Apple has been using OGS displays since the iPhone 4S. Therefore, independent attempts to change the sensor (without a matrix) on these devices are justified only if there is a lot of time, a desire to study and if the phone is not a pity.

The video shows how a person with experience changes the sensor on the OGS display using a minimum of tools:

If the budget is limited and you don’t want to overpay for the damaged matrix, this section should be read only for general information. It is better to immediately purchase the complete OGS screen module, and not risk it. The editors are not responsible for broken screens, torn cables and other consequences of unsuccessful experiments.

Owners of some flagship smartphones (HTC One M series, Samsung Galaxy, released after 2015, and not only) are contraindicated on their own. Disassemble them without experience, without damaging the body parts, impossible.

Disassembly requires the following tools and equipment:

Curly screwdriver set (cross and star), for disassembling a smartphone.
Plastic card or guitar pick, spatula.
Hair dryer, capable of warming up the screen to a temperature of 70-90 degrees (normal for hair is suitable).
Thin nylon thread or string to split the module.
Gloves (workers and medical).
Rubber suction cup with ring.
Metal flat surface with holes (perforated sheet).
6-8 bolts with nuts (the diameter depends on the diameter of the holes in the sheet, the length is 2-3 cm).
Photopolymer gluehardening under the influence of UV radiation.
Transparent glue that cures in the atmosphere (for example, B-7000).
Ultraviolet lamp (You can use a regular carrier with an E27 ultraviolet lamp, or you can take a UV manicure camera for nail extension).
Glass cleaner, alcohol, wipes.

Screwdrivers, picks, paddles and a suction cup are often included with the new touchscreen as a bonus. You can use them to replace them.

To replace the glass yourself on a phone with an OGS screen, the procedure is as follows:

Screens with an air gap that do not use OGS technology are the case when it is possible and necessary to replace broken glass or a matrix at home, for the sake of economy. Intervention is contraindicated for people who are not at all friendly with electronics, a soldering iron and other tools. There is no confidence in the strength, but there is a fear of breaking the device - it is better to go to the service. After all, chasing 200-1000 hryvnia savings, you can inadvertently cause damage for a couple of thousand.

To replace the matrix (or sensor - it doesn't matter, the order is one), the following tools and devices are needed:

A set of small curly screwdrivers.
Pick, scapula, plastic card.
Silicone suction cup with ring or loop.
Hair dryer.
B-7000 glue or similar.
Medical gloves.

The same tools are required to replace the complete OGS module. Many gadgets (suction cup, screwdriver, picks and paddles) come with a new screen / touchscreen.

How to replace the screen at home, instructions:

How to replace the screen on the phone with your own hands yourself - the material told. The question remains open whether it is worth doing this, or is it better to turn to professionals. To answer it, you need to consider several points.

Service centers purchase parts in bulk at purchasing prices. In Ukraine, it is very difficult to find a screen at the price that SC gives for it. There is a significant benefit in repairs only if you order components from China.
It is most beneficial to change the sensor or screen on cheap models like the Doogee X5. The service can announce the price of about 600-800 UAH, which is half the price of the device. The sensor itself costs about 350 UAH, and its independent replacement takes only 20-60 minutes. With more expensive devices, the benefit is not so obvious, since the cost of the part itself is higher than the cost of work.
The time spent on repairs may not be justified. It is worth changing the screen or sensor on your own if you have little money and a lot of time. Otherwise, the justification for refusing SC services is only interest and the desire to get new experience.