DIY furniture repair from chipboard hinges

Kitchen cabinet door, ripped out fasteners with meat. Can it be repaired?

Another photo of this door! Of course you can! First, glue all the chips of chipboard with PVA glue and press this case well. Then tighten with the same glue all the screws that hold the door hinges, if the screws fly into the old hole, then mix some addition into PVA glue, you can use wood chips. Good luck!

You can repair it. There are two ways.

1 way. If the holes are large, then buy plastic dowels. We drill holes and insert dowels. The dowels are likely to be longer. We cut them to size with a knife. We hang the door on self-tapping screws.

Method 2. If it is broken at all, then we dilute the epoxy resin. mix it with coarse sawdust and pour the mixture onto the damaged surface. After the resin has hardened, mark the holes for the door fasteners. We drill first with a thin drill, and then we drill it to the size of the self-tapping screw. Dowels are no longer needed. It should dry for a day. Otherwise it will crack and fall out. We fix the door. Done. Good luck.

All the furniture (like vodka)) is now made of sawdust. In this case, the screws are probably torn out of the nests, if the seats of the door canopies are intact, then the nests from the screws, carefully, can be restored with sawdust mixed with glue, when hardened, with a drill make holes and reinforce the awnings again. Or, in a furniture workshop, order a board for

new door (picking up the same material) and hang it on the cabinet yourself.

The most reliable way is, of course, to buy a special cutter with a diameter of 30 mm for furniture hinges for a drill. Its depth corresponds to the depth of the hinge. Then make new grooves in the door for the furniture hinge with a cutter. Then screw the hinges to the door with 15mm self-tapping screws, and the second part of the hinges to the side wall. But if you don't want to do all this, there is another reliable and proven way.

Carefully separate all parts from each other (hinges, door, side panel) Thin the epoxy. And you put it all together. Just first make up the door-hinge assembly and let the resin harden, and then screw the door into the same old holes with self-tapping screws, only with resin and leave to harden. It is advisable to fix the door with tape until the resin in the hinges on the side is petrified. This method has been proven since Soviet times.

For the people, philanthropy is more necessary than fire and water. I saw how they perished from fire and water, but I did not see that anyone perished from humanity.
Confucius (551-479 BC)

Author Topic: How to restore a screw hole in a chipboard (Read 20984 times)

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Good afternoon. The question is as old as the world. But maybe there are new ways to solve it? When transporting the TV stand, the hinges of the hinged door and the drawer guide were pulled out (photos are attached). How can you attach them back with similar reliability and mask the damaged areas so you don't want to cry when you see them? Changing boards is not an option, a glued cabinet (

There is such a thing called epoxylin (plastic epoxy). I repaired a plastic part with it, in which a production occurred during operation (metal scratched out a funnel, almost like in your picture). The instructions say that it is also suitable for a tree.There are separate pieces the size of half a cork from wine, knead them (while the composition is mixed with a hardener), they are first like plasticine, and after 5-10 minutes they turn into stone. I think it will do.

I will support the method with epoxylin. Sometimes I use it if it's screwed up with holes and needs to be re-drilled. The place of repair remains under the fittings and is not visible

Will the epoxylin fly off this surface? Maybe you need to prepare it somehow.

Dinaz wrote:
How can you attach them back with similar reliability

Drill through and into the bolts.

There are threaded furniture fittings. In this case, they will need to be put on glue.

strider1978, take a look at the photo: the footwear will not hold there even when glued. The only option -

Chepik wrote:
Drill through and into the bolts.

Only not on bolts, but on countersunk head screws, tk. cabinets - adjacent - and heads of a different type will interfere with the installation of cabinets in a row.

I would cut the loops in new places. The chips were either putty and painted over, or milled under some plugs.

Deil, What's the point? Do I need to cut labor-intensive (for home use) holes on the doors for the mating part of the hinge? They are not broken.

dimapav wrote:
Will the epoxylin fly off this surface? Maybe you need to prepare it somehow.

When a piece of chipboard is pulled out, the density of its structure is disturbed on the surface of the “crater”. Then it is better not Epoxylin, thick in consistency, but good PVA, which will penetrate deeper and bind the loose layers of chipboard. And it is good to squeeze the gluing place under load.
Epoxylin is also possible, but only with heating (hairdryer) at the place of its application, so that it spreads and is absorbed into the looser middle of the chipboard.

jek, if making a hole is a problem, then where is the guarantee that it will be possible to glue and glue well?

jek wrote:
the footwear will not hold there, even when set on glue.

Hold on, no worse than in this loose chipboard in any case. It is the area under the guide that is badly damaged, there most likely you can simply fix in other holes. In the end, no one bothers to screw the shoe from the outside.

jek wrote:
The only option -

Far from being the only one, you can fasten and glue the platforms, even from galvanized steel, even from plastic-acrylic, and attach hinges to them.

Deil wrote:
if you make a hole problem

Why is it problem?
TS did not seem to talk about this.

Yes, they will, but with a high probability they will pop up over time: evaluate the depth of the potholes in the photo.

strider1978 wrote:
there, most likely, you can simply fix in other holes.

Yes, but there will be a lot of additional work on drilling the seats on the doors for the mating part of the furniture hinges.

strider1978 wrote:
In the end, no one bothers to screw the shoe from the outside.

You will gain by this only a couple of millimeters of chipboard thickness.

strider1978 wrote:
you can fasten-glue the platforms, even from galvanized steel, even from plastic-acrylic, and attach hinges to them.

Galvanized - pliable and loose. I went through this already.
Plastic acrylic should be of considerable thickness (5-6 millimeters) so that a self-tapping screw or screw can be retained in it. Due to this thickness, the vehicle will then not adjust the doors.
There is an option - to remove the metal platform, which is part of the loop, through which it is usually attached to the chipboard. It is just 4-5mm thick. But it will be a "collective farm".

Chipboard, also known as chipboard, is used very often to make furniture. The furniture may look like it is made of noble woods, but it will be much cheaper. Chipboard has one unpleasant feature - its structure is such that metal fasteners do not always hold well. Objects that have doors suffer the most from this. How to fix a cabinet door? We will discuss this now.

Any furniture needs constant attention, otherwise it starts to cause trouble for the owners. Metal products have to be constantly monitored so that they do not rust. Wooden tables, chairs and cabinets begin to creak over time, and they have to be glued or twisted. Most of all unpleasant surprises are presented by chipboard furniture, in particular, cabinets.

However, some problems are typical for all furniture materials, except for plastic:

• the door starts to creak;
• the door does not want to close;
• the handle does not want to work or is broken;
• the door is scratched.

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Some hinge defects can be eliminated by hand, in other cases it is better to replace the hinge or door. For example, if an unpleasant creak is heard when opening or closing doors.

A door made of chipboard or wood can start to creak, while a metal door makes a disgusting grinding noise. Actually, it is not the cabinet itself that creaks, but the door hinges. Accordingly, they need to be “treated”.

Important! A special hinge oil is preferred in this case because it comes in a convenient spray can.

It is enough to miss the loop and it will no longer irritate your hearing. Well, machine oil is most conveniently applied using a small syringe (for example, diabetic). Preventive maintenance requires just a few drops.

It is not uncommon for the cabinet door to open constantly. It is useless to close. Our grandmothers got out of the situation simply - they rolled up a piece of newspaper several times and put it under the door. Effective, but not particularly beautiful.

But there was no other way than to invite a joiner to fit the naughty detail. Now it is very important to see what kind of construction you have:

Most modern furniture doors are held closed by a small magnet and a metal bar. If the cabinet is constantly open, the magnetic mount just needs to be adjusted.

The only tool you need is a screwdriver:

1. Loosen the screws that secure the magnet, but do not remove them completely.
2. Move it forward slightly.
3. Tighten the screws.

Check your results. Usually, such a simple repair helps a lot, but it happens that it does not work. Then you need to change the mount.

In this case, you can take advantage of your grandmother's experience and make a small pad. Only, of course, not out of paper. A small piece of rubber with a thickness of 1 to 5 mm works best, depending on the width of the gap.

• knife or scissors;
• ruler;
• ball pen;
• universal glue;
• hammer and small nails.

All that remains is to cut out the gasket - a rectangle of about 2x3 cm.It does not matter at all how smooth it is. Next, to fix the cabinet door:

1. Draw a rectangle of the desired size on the piece of rubber.
2. Cut the workpiece with a sharp knife (it is better to do this with a ruler) or with scissors, if the structure of the rubber allows.
3. Stick a piece to the bottom bar of the box, or nail it down with small nails.

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There is no point in restoring a pen unless it has artistic value. If it is standard, it is better to replace it with exactly the same one. To do this, you need a screwdriver and a small box or sheet of white paper (so that the screws do not get lost in the process).

Let's start repairing the cabinet door:

1. Open the door.
2. Unscrew the screws carefully.
3. Remove the handle.
4. Attach a new one.
5. Install the screws without tightening.
6. Adjust the handle.
7. Tighten the screws.

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If the cabinet door is scratched or the lining has fallen off, it can be repaired. At the same time, it is better to remove it from the hinges - they always do this with a wooden or metal part. But as for the chipboard - it is better not to risk it, to restore it by weight.

Important! Unfortunately, the attachment points at such doors fail quite often, and repairs do not always give the desired result.

The most common problem with such parts is that screws, screws or self-tapping screws fly out, often together with pieces of board. A hole is formed into which nothing can be inserted. How to repair a chipboard cabinet door if such a misfortune occurs?

• put a loop of a different design;
• seal the holes with a special proprietary compound;
• seal the holes with a homemade solution of sawdust and glue;
• by placing wooden bushings;
• by placing a wooden or metal plate.

The chipboard from which the furniture is made can be either hard or soft. The repair methods in these cases will be different. For example, if the cabinet is made of a soft slab (as a rule, modern furniture is made of this), you can repair the broken holes with sawdust, but this option is not suitable for old Soviet furniture.

If the fastener has flown off, and a "lacerated wound" has formed in its place, you can try to seal it with a composition that includes:

In this case, it is not necessary to remove the door from the second hinge:

1. Mix sawdust with glue to make a thick and relatively homogeneous mass (it is important that there are no large lumps).
2. Fill the hole with this mixture.
3. Let dry completely.
4. Dip the self-tapping screws in the same glue and screw in.

Important! This method is only suitable for small cabinets with light enough doors.

This option is more reliable than the previous one, since the epoxy after curing has a rather high strength:

1. Mix epoxy with coarse sawdust.
2. Refill the damaged area.
3. Let dry completely, which will take about 24 hours.
4. Mark the places of the holes for the fasteners - if you are not going to change the hinge, they will be in the same place as they were.
5. Drill the holes with a thin drill.
6. Drill them under the diameter of the screws.
7. Secure the door.

It also happens that a large piece of chipboard fell off at the attachment point, but did not fall apart into separate fragments. In this case, you can simply glue it by adding a small amount of sawdust to the PVA glue. The rest is done in the same way as in the previous case.

How to fix a chipboard cabinet door if it fell off, but neatly enough, and no sawdust formed? In this case, plastic dowels will help you out.

You will also need a tool that you can use to trim the dowels - they are likely to be longer than necessary. The dowels should not stick out. You can trim them with a knife. After you insert them, hang the door hinge on the self-tapping screws.

You can get out of the situation differently - you don't need to glue anything. Door hinges now come in a wide variety of sizes and screw hole spacings. In this case, you do not even need to close the holes from under the fallen fasteners.

It is better, of course, to do this by covering it with furniture wax - any unnecessary hole reduces the strength of the entire structure. So seal the holes in one of the suggested ways, and then proceed as follows:

1. Using a special cutter with a diameter of 30 mm, make the grooves in the door for the hinge higher or lower than the previous ones.
2. Screw the hinge to the door with self-tapping screws.
3. Screw the second part of the loop to the sidewall.

Important! For greater reliability, you can immediately put the self-tapping screws on the glue - this will increase the strength of the fastening.

How to repair a kitchen cabinet door if it is quite heavy? Even a very strong adhesive in this situation is not a particularly reliable assistant. You will need:

• a piece of hardwood (oak is best, but you can take birch as well);
• knife;
• PVA glue;
• rags or napkins;
• hammer.

In this case, cone-shaped plugs are driven into the holes:

1. Cut out 2 wood corks to be larger than the hole.
2. Coat the holes with PVA glue so that the tile is well saturated.
3. Lubricate the cork with the same glue.
4. Put the plug in the hole.
5. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth or cloth.
6. Wait for the glue to dry completely.
7. Screw the loop into place with self-tapping screws.

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Some furniture manufacturers produce special restoration products. Usually they resemble plasticine in consistency. For example, such material is offered to its customers by the Heinkel company.

1. Mash the composition.
2. Spray the area to be restored with water.
3. Cover it with plasticine.
4. Wait for the structure to dry out.
5. Place the loop on the self-tapping screws in the usual way.

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The holes formed from the fallen out screws can not be repaired, but closed. This requires a wooden or metal die.

Important! Wooden is easier to make and drill, but metal is more reliable.

How to repair a cabinet door:

1. Remove the door and unscrew the hinges.
2. Cut the block just long enough to cover both holes.
3. Attach it with the long screws to the inside of the cabinet.
4. Mark the places for the screws.
5. Screw on the door.

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In most cases, the hinge is attached to the inside of the cabinet. When drilling holes, care must be taken not to poke holes through the door. But sometimes you have to do this, if no other methods can be applied, and it is still a pity to throw the cabinet away:

1. Make 2 dies.
2. Screw one on the inside and the other on the outside.
3. Drill holes for bolts on the inner plate, and for nuts on the outer plate.
4. Install the hinge by bolting it.
5. Cover the outer plate with a decorative strip.

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As you can see, there is a lot of fuss with the repair of chipboard doors, and the repair does not always give a good result. Therefore, it makes sense to apply some preventive measures, especially since they are quite simple:

1. When arranging furniture, immediately select a place for the cabinet so that it can be moved as little as possible.
2. Do not jerk the door, open it smoothly and without jerking.
3. Do not hang heavy objects from the handle (you can find a better place for the shopping bag).
4. Lubricate the hinges periodically.

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