Do-it-yourself mechanical watch repair beginner's guide

In detail: do-it-yourself mechanical watch repair manual for a beginner from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Let's assume that a watch fell into your hands. It can be your grandfather's watch, a friend's, an acquaintance's, or even your own watch, which you forgot about a long time ago. They once stopped and stopped showing the time. In search of the necessary tools, you turned the apartment “upside down” and, with the help of improvised means, managed to open them.

But is it worth the haste? Perhaps this watch can still be repaired.

If you are a beginner and have never dealt with watch repair before, then you should familiarize yourself with a few rules that any watchmaker adheres to.

1. The clock mechanism is the most complex "organism", in which all its elements work as a whole. Therefore, watch repair must be careful and accurate. You must understand how they work, because some parts of the watch mechanism are so small that it will not be difficult to damage them.

2. Remember that for the careful removal of the component parts of the mechanism, you need the appropriate specialized tools. Otherwise, your repair will lead to an inversely proportional result.

It is also worth noting that even if by some miracle these tools are at your fingertips, but you have no idea about the mechanism of the watch, they will not help you. If you are not confident in your abilities and do not have sufficient experience, it is better to give your watch to the workshop. Professionals in their field will repair them properly.

3. Watch mechanisms of the times of the Soviet Union are not inferior to their more eminent and expensive counterparts from Switzerland in terms of the complexity of repair.

4. Like most other mechanisms, watches need lubrication. They won't work without it. Remember that by lubricant we mean a specialized substance designed specifically for watch movements, and not petroleum jelly or, even better, sunflower oil. The last two options are not suitable even as a temporary solution to the problem. The lubricant must be applied to the parts of the mechanism that require it, with exact observance of the quantitative proportions of the substance. If you think that the watchmaker, when carrying out repairs, abundantly waters the entire mechanism from a huge oiler, then you are greatly mistaken.

Video (click to play).

5. If for some reason you still do not want to give your watch to a professional workshop and cannot get rid of the desire to carry out the appropriate repairs yourself by purchasing specialized tools, be aware that a watch set for 600 rubles, which can be bought on most Internet there won't be enough stores. This is a useless waste of money. A high-quality watch tool is expensive, and purchasing it for a one-time repair is not the most rational act.

6. Before starting work, read the relevant literature. For a beginner, we recommend the book "Design and Assembly Technology of Mechanical Watches" by S.M. Tagirov. It is distinguished by its clarity and the utmost brevity of the material presented in it. After reading it, most of your questions will be answered. Agree, there is nothing worse than a beginner who does not even understand the basics of the business he decided to take on, and even showers you with constant questions: “what, how?”.

7. Remember - do not touch the components of the clock mechanism with your hands.For these purposes, it is necessary to use tweezers, gloves, fingertips or, at worst, a toothpick.

8. Thinking about making watch repair your hobby? Get ready for a big financial outlay.

Entry-level watch tools, designed primarily for watch assembly, cost about ten thousand rubles, for minimal repairs - from one hundred thousand. You can't buy everything at once anyway. It can take a lifetime to assemble a complete set of tools. The same rule applies to repair training.

Patience is an essential character trait of any watchmaker. Without him, this business is nowhere. First of all, you should honestly answer yourself one simple question: “Do you need all this?”.

Let's assume that you still got the necessary tools and equipped your workspace. Where to begin? Do not know? We will advise.

Determine the breakdown or malfunction of the watch mechanism, which led to its malfunction or stop. In 80% of cases, this is dirt and dried grease on the parts of the mechanism. This kind of malfunction of the mechanism can be determined by eye. Their main features are black tribes and dried oil cans. The solution to this problem is to disassemble the clockwork, clean all its parts from dirt and lubricate.

Remember the patience we described above? Well, that's when you need it. Haste is your worst enemy.

The most important part of this craft that you will need to learn is the disassembly and assembly of the clock mechanism. For training, an old, unrepairable watch is suitable - this is the best option. You are not immune from mistakes, like any other person, and with such training they cannot be avoided. We consider the “Glory” alarm clock to be the best option for learning. Its clockwork is similar to most mechanical wristwatches, and the details are not as fine.

Let's look at it using the example of the above-named alarm clock.

The first is to remove the back cover. Unscrew the keys of the plant, remove the buttons for moving the hour hands, and then unscrew the fixing screws. In wrist watches, the back cover of the watch can be attached to their case, both with screws and with the help of special latches.

The second is the extraction of the mechanism. Carefully inspect and study the method by which the fastener was made. Loosen the fixing screws. If you have a wrist watch in your hands, before removing the mechanism, remove the winding shaft, switching it to the eyeliner mode, and slightly press on the support, then remove it. At the end of the procedure for extracting the mechanism, the winding shaft must be installed back.

The third is to eat the hands and the dial. The first ones are removed quite easily - they just need to be slightly pry off. To do this, use corsunki (tweezers, wire cutters). Thanks to this tool, you can avoid the appearance of mechanical damage (scratches, microcracks), both on the hands and on the dial. In cases where the watch model you are repairing is not equipped with a calendar or chime, it is possible to remove the dial, hour wheel and hands as a whole. Carefully unscrew all fixing screws. In most cases, they are located on the end side of the mechanism opposite each other. All disassembly and assembly activities must be performed on a specialized stand that prevents dust from entering your workspace from the rest of the surface on which the stand is installed.

The fourth is the release of the spring. We apologize for the professional slang. Descent is a weakening of the spring winding. Take the tweezers in your hand, the other - wind the spring half a turn and in this state take the dog out with the tweezers. After that, slowly, without sudden movements, start releasing the winding shaft and wait for the moment when the spring unwinds completely.

Fifth - remove the balance bridge. Loosen the fixing screws.Next, pry off the bridge with tweezers and carefully, lifting it along with the balance, remove it from the clockwork. Be careful. Do not allow the balance spiral to engage with the wheels. Remember that if you put the axle down with the balance, you can damage its axle. Don't allow it.

Sixth - remove the anchor plug bridge. Loosen the fixing screws. Next, remove the bridge, then remove the fork itself.

Seventh - remove the spring bridge. This operation is performed in a manner similar to the sixth stage.

Eighth - remove the axle of the wheel system. First of all, take out the minute tribe located on the central wheel. If you're practicing with the alarm clock we talked about just above, it's not necessary to shoot the minute trib. In addition, it is worth noting that in the mechanism of this alarm clock, the bridges of the wheel system and the springs are one. After you unscrew the mounting screws and remove the bridge, remove the wheels. Take your time and remove the wheels in turn - this will allow you to avoid damage to adjacent wheels.

That's all. You have taken apart your first clockwork. However, it still needs to be collected. To do this, follow the same steps in reverse order.

The first time is the most difficult. Therefore, we advise you not to try to put everything together from memory. This will come later - with experience. It is best to run your eyes through the sequence we have described, only in reverse order, and only after that, perform the corresponding action. So you can assemble your first clockwork, which has just been safely dismantled, as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Good luck in your endeavors!
After writing this article, we have a new one, we invite you to get acquainted:
How to repair a mechanical watch yourself. Instructions for beginners.

Friends, if you have any questions, as far as possible, I will try to answer everyone.
Write, call and come by contact details,
posted here (link CONTACTS SC SAMOLET)
We kindly ask you to pay attention that our workshop is located in Samara.

We hope that after reading this article, you have discovered something new and interesting.
And remember, if you are the owner of one of the watches that we talk about on our website and feel that they need repair or maintenance, or you just want to get professional advice from highly qualified watchmakers in the city of Samara, you can feel free to contact us.
Our experts will help you
repair the following types of watches for you:

- old mechanical (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- wall-mounted (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- floor;
- desktop;
- Pocket;
- wrist;
- and even electronic-mechanical and quartz.

We sincerely welcome all your thoughts that you leave in the comments under this article.

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“REPAIR OF WATCHES WITH YOUR HANDS”

Beginner's guide

Watch devices can be classified in different ways: according to the principle of operation, according to the design of the oscillatory system, and finally, according to their purpose.

According to the principle of operation, watch mechanisms can be mechanical, electronic-mechanical or electronic. The oscillatory systems used in the watch device (balance, pendulum, quartz generator, tuning fork, etc.) depend on the method of application and purpose of the watch. So, for example, a pendulum clock can work only if the pendulum is suspended vertically, that is, the clock must be stationary.These are floor, wall or (in rare cases) table clocks. The balance oscillatory system, unlike the pendulum one, is not afraid of movement of the mechanism, therefore it is used mainly in wrist or pocket watches.

Mechanical watches, in addition, can be divided according to the type of engine used: kettlebell or spring. The simplest in design are wall-mounted pendulum clocks with a weight engine, such as, for example, cuckoo clocks.

Mechanical watches, in addition to the main mechanism, can also have various additional devices. For example, in large watches, this may be a chime, calendar or signaling device; in wristwatches - automatic winding of the spring, stopwatch, alarm or calendar device, etc.

Electronic-mechanical clocks can be either wrist or stationary (table or wall). Electronic and electro-mechanical watches can also be equipped with additional devices.

The book is devoted mainly to the repair of the most common watches - wristwatches and alarm clocks.

The main components of the clockwork

In a mechanical watch, these are: the engine, the main wheel system, the oscillatory system or regulator, the escapement or movement, the pointer mechanism, the spring winding mechanism and the transfer of the hands.

The clock is powered by an engine.

It can be spring or weight. The running engine stores energy, and then transfers it through the wheel system to the regulator and the switch mechanism. The main wheel system consists of gears (secondary, intermediate, central) that transfer energy from the engine through the escapement to the regulator and the pointer mechanism. The regulator controls the unwinding of the spring (or the unwinding of the weight). The descent, which is an intermediate node, periodically releases the gear in the wheel system and transfers the spring energy to the regulator. The pointer mechanism consists of a system of gear wheels (transfer, bill of exchange, hourly) and transmits movement to the arrows from the main wheel system.

The mechanism for winding the spring and shifting the hands consists of a winding shaft, a drum and winding wheel and a lever system. The base of the clock mechanism is platinum, one of the sides of which is called the bridge, and the other is called the dial. On the bridge side there are: the engine, the main wheel system (or engagement), the escape wheel, the anchor fork, the balance-spring, the automatic winding mechanism for watches with such a system, and on the dial side - the pointer mechanism, the spring winding mechanism and the translation of the hands and the calendar mechanism , if provided.

The principle of the clock mechanism

The crown is screwed onto the winding shaft.

When the crown rotates, i.e., when the watch is wound, the shaft also rotates, transferring movement to the winding wheel and then to the drum wheel, put on the drum shaft. An internal coil of the mainspring is attached to it, and when the wheel rotates, the spring is wound onto the shaft. When the wound spring begins to unwind, the rotation of the drum is transmitted to the central wheel. The central wheel, in turn, rotates the intermediate wheel, and it rotates the second wheel, which sets the second hand in motion. Then, from the second wheel, the movement is transferred to the escape wheel, which maintains balance fluctuations. Finally, through the bill wheel, the movement is transmitted to the hour wheel with an hour hand.

To repair watches at home, you will need: a magnifying glass, several screwdrivers with a blade diameter of 0.6 to 2 mm, 2-3 tweezers, a set of keys, pliers, wire cutters, files, a needle, a knife, a caliper, tools for cleaning and lubricating ( oiler, brushes, rubber bulb, etc.). Gasoline for lubrication can be poured into an ordinary tea glass, only it is necessary to close it tightly. Old toothbrushes can be used as brushes for cleaning parts.

Chapter 1

Since quite often the reason for the watch to stop is the contamination of the mechanism, the drying of oil, the penetration of moisture into the watch case, etc., sometimes it is enough to simply disassemble the watch, while washing or lubricating its mechanism. Before disassembling the watch, study the attached diagram (Fig. 1).

Rice. one. Kinematic and schematic diagram of the clock mechanism:

5 and 6—overlay and impulse galoshes;

8 - restrictive pins;

11 and 12—input and output flights;

15 and 16 - pins of the adjusting thermometer;

19 - pinion of the anchor wheel;

21 - pinion of the second wheel;

24 - pinion of the intermediate wheel;

26 - pinion of the central wheel;

39 — spring transfer lever (retainer);

41 — spring winding lever;

42 and 43 - transfer wheels;

45 - tribe of the bill of exchange wheel;

49 - tribe of the minute hand (minute clock)

Disassembly is carried out in the following sequence:

- Remove the back cover of the case (it is most convenient to pick it up with a knife; some covers are unscrewed). As a rule, malfunctions such as a broken spring, broken or bent wheels, loose screws are immediately visible.

- If at a cursory examination everything looks intact, you should remove the mechanism from the case. To do this, you must first lower the mainspring; this is done as follows: the crown is retracted to the extreme position (winding moment) and held with tweezers, and the crown at this time is gently rotated by the fingers. Then the winding shaft is removed. To do this, set it to the position of the transfer of arrows and loosen the screw of the transfer lever. Then the mechanism is removed from the case and the winding shaft is put back into place. In some models, the watch case is designed so that the mechanism can be pulled out without removing the winding shaft.

- Check the rotation of the central wheel with tweezers (whether it moves freely and does not come into contact with surrounding parts). Check for contact also the drum, spiral, balance.

- Remove the hands, release and remove the dial.

First, remove the second hand, then the minute hand (most conveniently with tweezers). Then remove the dial with the hour wheel and hour hand. Check the condition of his legs. Inspect the pointer mechanism, check the bill of exchange and hour wheels, check the adhesion of the wheels of the pointer mechanism (to do this, turn them in the forward and reverse directions). Check to see if the setting and crank levers are properly engaged.

- Remove the balance bridge with the balance unit from the platinum. Unscrew the screw of the spiral column by 1.5–2 turns, separate the balance assembly from the bridge. Having taken the balance out of the mechanism, it must not be allowed to hang at the end of the spiral.

- Remove the anchor bridge and the anchor itself (the mainspring must be completely lowered).

- Remove the central, intermediate, seconds and escape wheels. Check their position on the axle and the engagement between each wheel and its corresponding gear, inspect the teeth.

- Remove the drum from the platinum, open it and check the condition of the mainspring.

Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan Ya.

This is purely an experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for an amateur. The road to a professional is in the school. Everything will be taught there.

Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky. In general, there are books on the topic of watch repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everything will be done for you in any Internet cafe. You must have the book. It might be expensive, but it's worth it. This book is a guide for the non-professional who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like this before - and here it is.

We will make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned down.

Screwdrivers. Start simple.

Chinese. I use. I'm sharpening. As for Chinese screwdrivers, look where they change watch batteries on the streets and sell batteries and watch straps.Or in the most ordinary households. Screwdriver set for small jobs.

You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when you try to unscrew something, you put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of the screwdriver and quickly into the wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and, according to Pinkin, you sharpen it.

More cool - in the machine on a diamond disk. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Well suited stones for finishing.

Tweezers (for starters, medical eye tweezers will do).

An alternative is to get acquainted with the radio bazaar (if Moscow, then it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer bells and whistles) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Forms of tweezers - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watchmaking workshops. They'd rather be beaten than sell something at a normal price. They do not want to produce competitors. And if they sell, then the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't go through any gates.

There is also a radio market - Galosh gasoline. Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.

You take chopsticks (like Chinese ones) - finger length - to taste. You stick a fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.

The very tip is splashed with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) on a hard anvil. You get a small spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace the oil dosage. As anvils, I use either a roller from a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to a flea market or to friends in a workshop.

In approximately the same way - for a start it will come in handy - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are cowardly and there are no good tweezers - exposing parts (gears to stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.

Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. Bought usually on occasion at a flea market.

Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.

Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off the dust. The tip must be rubber.

Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don’t beat you, although they usually look like sheep and pretend that they don’t understand what you are talking about and try to get you off as soon as possible). Or maybe at the radio bazaar - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will do for a start.

It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.

To open the cases - a large broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - the old caliper. Only it is necessary to correct the edges of the sponges - so that they are more rectangular.

Scalpel - opening cases.

Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not to even start. Or photographic goods (classic - where they sell spyglasses and binoculars) or a radio market. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One 1.5 times, one - the strongest one for sale - seems to be up to 2.5 times. They can be sold on an elastic band - you will have to redo it for a hard rim. You can go talk in the workshop of optics - glasses. Maybe they'll offer something like pince-nez. As for ordinary magnifiers - to taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting the cub's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but they need to be cut.

Binocular microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest one is MBS-1. It has a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. Should cost around $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point of tearing the skapka out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time.MBS-10 or OGMZ are cooler - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But still, under the MBS-10, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit - you need to shorten it. Although on the website of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of the MBS-10 there is a link that they sell lenses with an object distance of about 19 cm for the MBS-10. This may be a good solution if we got the MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 - consider the same. Over time, the lens can be redone yourself. Take whatever is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there be an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).

Everything that is further from the tool - only after evisceration 4-5 hours.

Where to get a watch - get yourself a fashion to visit a flea market - everything floats there. Often they just sell mechanisms. For instance:

When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio market, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic washers. But here, too, the question is whether it is necessary. 50 years before that they had not been used - they took a bath and washed the parts in gasoline with a brush. You can get by, but the weight is good. Should cost in the range of 50-80 $. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into the ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Doesn't flash. Washes like a beast, but still sometimes you need to tear something off with a toothpick. They say in the bazaar that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is as shown in the picture - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (moisture may turn out to be inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not pass - highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong acetic smell.

Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - that's it. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for current disassembly work. I like glass ones more - they are heavier, they fidget less on the table.

Then, for convenience, in offices that make business cards, you can sometimes drive up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.

silica gel. Small bags that are invested in new fashionable shoes, equipment, components for computers. Absorbs water. It is necessary to dry either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven. Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released. After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time - so that they do not rust.

Radiobazar. Snap bags - they sell by the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Lay down watches and small items. They usually pack small pieces that are sold at the bazaar.

To begin with, a watch can be placed on the mesh from a meat grinder during disassembly. Then you will decide what you need and how you feel more comfortable. The stand can be machined from brass. Should be heavy enough.

Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 volts. If not, go to 220v. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it heats up.

About the new instrument. It's not always worth the money. Think about how to get out of what you have. It is needed if you earn a living by doing this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not in the first place. Calculate the expenses like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are for the instrument. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.

Now the steepness has gone. Machine.

Option 2. High-speed machine. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way.But as for me, this is not very correct. If you sharpen, then sharpen.

Given the above - if you do not sharpen the axles how to fry pies - then for a non-professional turner-watchmaker it would be more appropriate to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is turning axles (or even less), 80% is turning screws and body parts, various minor milling work.

Examples I would name are:

Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a cutting corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a “milling cutter”.

- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, there is also a milling attachment or milling cutter FF-230. Look for them there, they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do this.

Regarding the old MD-65. Axis 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any further explanation is unnecessary.

Now the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well qua. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers, Linux will do. So, the most interesting begins. Software often costs more than hardware. The same story with machines. Requires accessories and additional tools. An approximate set of additional personal belongings to the machine, I think, will cost no less than the cost of the machine. Now we are talking about turning + milling. My MD-65 turned out to be with a milling corner plate - a milling cutter is clamped in the machine chuck, and the support is turned over a la milling table, only vertical + milling vice. It turns out to mill arrows on it. Cut slots in the screws too.

- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school cooking boxes.

For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not be beaten.

- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one native from MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set - Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).

This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.

- indicators. At 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various fasteners are needed for them. Often you have to do the fastening yourself.

– centrifuges – 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.

- Binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.

- 4-jaw chuck. With separate unclenching of the cams.

- whetstone - sharpen cutters roughly

– diamond wheels – sharpen cutters precisely

– swivel vice (horizontal swivel system) – drill holes in precisely defined places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It's hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws jump.

- dividing head Or with disks or with vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.

- I'm not talking about cutters. Both face and for gears. Thickness of disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - this is the thickness of the Neva blade.

- measuring tool - this is for rough work

- and for accurate - only optics

- then you need to look at what you need already according to the work performed. You have to do a lot yourself. Think of a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, more time is spent on making a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.

Cutting the foil - making a "disk" arrow. Handy materials.

Now the conversation is where and how to organize it all. Must be dry. No dust. Not on the head of the family - the family must know that this is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entry there. And howling about the noise from the workshop is also nothing. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks of gasoline).

At one type I saw a German machine - the type of our school one. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumbled the onion with sausage.All the same, there will be no large turning work at home - everything is some kind of small shadow.

If we are talking about a large workshop or a more serious restoration work for the soul, then in addition to a small machine, you need to look towards a larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and making fixtures. It is clear that this all needs a trailer of fixtures and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.

If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they are very helpful. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and linings for the cutters of a lathe.

As a conclusion, let's say this - this process is endless. There was a good point in one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe that is fully applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no reason to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in the eyes of what we started. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants will die of all this rubbish and quickly. They can throw it in the trash too. They needed a place for a geranium! It is necessary to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently all this numerous relatives and offspring must be explained that all this is expensive and that in remote times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is just the right time to prepare a circle of activities for ourselves at a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, in retirement. Good luck.

Solntsev G.
Do-it-yourself watch repair
"Phoenix*
Rostov-on-Don

Solntsev G.
С 60 Do-it-yourself watch repair. A guide for the beginner. Rostov-
n / a .: "Phoenix", 2001.-96 p.
With the help of this book, you will be able to master the basics of repairing all types of watches.
mechanisms. Easy presentation style and clear illustrations will help
beginners, and the book as a whole will complement the knowledge of the master.

But is it worth the haste? Perhaps this watch can still be repaired.

If you are a beginner and have never dealt with watch repair before, then you should familiarize yourself with a few rules that any watchmaker adheres to.

2. Remember that for the careful removal of the component parts of the mechanism, you need the appropriate specialized tools. Otherwise, your repair will lead to an inversely proportional result.

3. Watch mechanisms of the times of the Soviet Union are not inferior to their more eminent and expensive counterparts from Switzerland in terms of the complexity of repair.

4.Like most other mechanisms, watches need lubrication. They won't work without it. Remember that by lubricant we mean a specialized substance designed specifically for watch movements, and not petroleum jelly or, even better, sunflower oil. The last two options are not suitable even as a temporary solution to the problem. The lubricant must be applied to the parts of the mechanism that require it, with exact observance of the quantitative proportions of the substance. If you think that the watchmaker, when carrying out repairs, abundantly waters the entire mechanism from a huge oiler, then you are greatly mistaken.

7. Remember - do not touch the components of the clock mechanism with your hands. For these purposes, it is necessary to use tweezers, gloves, fingertips or, at worst, a toothpick.

8. Thinking about making watch repair your hobby? Get ready for a big financial outlay.

Patience is an essential character trait of any watchmaker. Without him, this business is nowhere. First of all, you should honestly answer yourself one simple question: “Do you need all this?”.

Let's assume that you still got the necessary tools and equipped your workspace. Where to begin? Do not know? We will advise.

Remember the patience we described above? Well, that's when you need it. Haste is your worst enemy.

Let's look at it using the example of the above-named alarm clock.

The first is to remove the back cover. Unscrew the keys of the plant, remove the buttons for moving the hour hands, and then unscrew the fixing screws.In wrist watches, the back cover of the watch can be attached to their case, both with screws and with the help of special latches.

Fifth - remove the balance bridge. Loosen the fixing screws. Next, pry off the bridge with tweezers and carefully, lifting it along with the balance, remove it from the clockwork. Be careful. Do not allow the balance spiral to engage with the wheels. Remember that if you put the axle down with the balance, you can damage its axle. Don't allow it.

Sixth - remove the anchor plug bridge. Loosen the fixing screws. Next, remove the bridge, then remove the fork itself.

Seventh - remove the spring bridge. This operation is performed in a manner similar to the sixth stage.

That's all. You have taken apart your first clockwork. However, it still needs to be collected. To do this, follow the same steps in reverse order.

Good luck in your endeavors!
After writing this article, we have a new one, we invite you to get acquainted:
How to repair a mechanical watch yourself. Instructions for beginners.