Do-it-yourself mechanical wall clock repair amber

OCHZ or Yantar watches were produced by the Oryol Watch Factory, which established the production of wall clocks in 1954, and ended its existence together with the Soviet Union. Therefore, offhand watches can be from 25 years to half a century.

• Analysis of the mechanism
• Parts washing and drying
• Grease
• Assembling and adjusting the clock

Think about disassembling the clock mechanism:

• first remove the pendulum and carefully detach the dial and hands from the central plate. Convenience lies in the fact that to repair a watch with an OCHZ strike, it is enough to pull out the mechanism located between the two plates.
• For rinsing, use high-purity Galosha Thinner, a cut-bristled toothbrush, and toothpicks to clean the holes.
• When assembling, it is difficult to swap the wheels, because they will not fit into someone else's place, but it is better to first find a clock diagram.
• Lubrication is carried out after assembly, but only with special watch oil or petroleum jelly, which can be sold in pharmacies. Little by little, all parts are lubricated, except for the gear wheels.

In the workshop, completing the repair of the Amber wall clock with a strike, they must check the progress and accuracy. Wall clocks are very sensitive to position. Therefore, when you hang it on the wall, move it to the right - to the left until a ticking sound is even audible.

Fix the position with screws that will not allow the watch case to move. Next, set the minute hand to 6 or 12 so that the clock chimes. Move the minute hand gradually, listening to the fight every hour. Set the exact time, wind up the watch, but not completely.

Now count how much the clock deviates from the exact time per day. The accuracy can be adjusted using the adjusting nut located under the pendulum lens. On average, one revolution is 0.5 minutes to one, we turn to the right to increase, to the left - to decrease.

The factory producing most of the large-sized watches in the USSR was the Oryol Watch Factory. On many watches on the dial was the abbreviated name of this plant "OCHZ". The factory began to produce watches Amber in the late 60s. The watch became very popular among the citizens of the Soviet Union. Nowadays, they still use this watch, this speaks of the good quality of the mechanism, because with proper operation and timely prevention, the Amber watch with a pendulum can last at least 100 years. A watch was brought to the Fullfix watch center for repair after a long stay in the attic. Corrosion has strongly eaten the chrome-plated elements of the case, we will carry out restoration and repair of watches. Let's start with the watch case.

As you can see, there are traces of paint on the case, most likely due to storage in the attic, corrosion has appeared on the chrome parts.

The condition of the case and chrome-plated parts leaves much to be desired, there is also corrosion on the dial elements.

The pendulum is covered with a layer of rust.

We will remove rust from the case and dial elements by polishing with abrasive wheels.

Let's pay attention to the striking strings of our clocks, as we can see the time also did not pass them by, we will carry out the restoration of the "voice", our clocks.

From the exterior of the watch, let's move on to the internal mechanism. Dust has adhered to the old watch oil and an unpleasant "mess" has formed, we will disassemble and clean everything.

In the process of parsing, we notice the absence of a pawl spring on the mechanism. Repairing old pendulum clocks is not an easy task these days, you have to make some parts yourself, since you can't find new ones.We make the spring ourselves and solder the missing end to the old piece in platinum.

We disassemble the watch and wash everything in a special solution.

We assemble and lubricate the mechanism.

We insert the mechanism with the dial into the watch.

After restoration, the watch took its original appearance, the watchmaker №1 in Sokolniki Fullfix coped with its work perfectly.

WALL CLOCK BATTLE MECHANISM

A diagram of the battle mechanism is shown in Fig. 195.

The striking mechanism in watches has its own energy source in the form of a wound spring, usually located in a drum, or receives energy from a raised weight.

Rice. 195. Wall clock striking mechanism
1 - drum; 2 - additional wheel; 3 - pin wheel; 4 - locking wheel; 5 - the second starting wheel

Rice. 196. Wheel with lifting pins and hammer shaft:
1 - lifting rod; 2 - hammer roller; 3 - wheel with lifting pins

Rice. 197. Diagram of the striking mechanism at the beginning of the lifting of the two-armed unlocking lever and the moment of lifting the closing lever:
1 - minute tribe; 2 - two-armed unlocking lever; 3 - wheel of the closing lever; 4 - stop of the first starting wheel and the pin on the closing lever; 5 - pin of the first starting wheel; 6 - ledge; 7 - pin of the second starting wheel

The combat mechanism working with the counting wheel has the following details:

1 - drum, coupled with its teeth with a tribe of an additional wheel, on the axis of which a counting disk is mounted;

2 - an additional wheel engaging with a pin wheel pinion, carrying 9-10 lifting pins or an asterisk with the same number of protrusions;
3 - pin wheel engaging with the tribe of the first starting - locking wheel, carrying one pin;

4 - locking wheel engaging with the tribe of the second start-up

the second wheel, which also carries the pin;

5 - the second starting wheel engaged with the wind turbine-regulator tribe;

6 - roller 2 (Fig. 196), having a lifting rod 1, in contact with the pin wheel 3, on the square of which the hammer is fixed;

7 - closing lever (Fig. 197), contacting through the pin 5 with the first starting wheel and carrying the reference lever, which lies on the counting disc;

8 - two-armed release lever 2, located under the dial;

9 — unlocking lever 2, in contact with the closing lever 4 and fixed on the shaft of the closing lever.
The process of operation of the battle mechanism is. releasing the mechanism for the run-up of the wheel system, production, strikes and termination of the battle. The striking mechanism operates for a short period of time after the automatic unlocking, which is performed by the arrow mechanism of the watch.

On the axis of the central wheel, a minute tribe 1 is fixed, on which there are two pins. Rotating with the axle, every half hour it raises the two-armed unlocking lever 2, which, in turn, resting on the closing lever 3, raises it. On the shaft of the lever 4, the knee lever is tightly fixed. Rising to a sufficient height, the lever releases the pin of the first starter wheel, and the wheel makes a short run. Together with it, the second starting wheel runs about half a turn, and the pin 1 located on it falls on the protrusion 6 of the two-armed unlocking lever 2.

A short run of wheels for 3-5 minutes before a fight is called preparation for a fight. Only after 3-5 minutes, when the minute hand approaches the numbers 12 and 6, the pin of the minute tribe 1 will move so much that it releases the two-armed unlocking lever 2 lying on it. This lever, falling, returns to its original position, thereby pin 7 of the second the trigger wheel is released and the striking mechanism is set in motion.

During the movement of the wheels, each pin of the pin wheel or tooth of the sprocket, approaching the protrusion of the hammer shaft, raises it up. As soon as the protrusion of the hammer, being released, falls, the hammer falls with it, striking the spring or gong.

In order for the clock to strike the correct time, the striking mechanism has a counting disc (Fig. 198), which is attached to the square end of the auxiliary wheel axle.

Rice. 198. Counting disk:
1 - counting disk; 2 - counting lever

On the counting disc there are projections of unequal size, the dimensions of which are determined by the number of strokes required. The counting disc moves from one notch to another with each action of the striking mechanism.

Its working end rests on the counting lever on the counting disc. When the clock strikes once, i.e. half an hour, then the reference lever does not come out of the recess of the counting disc. On the contrary, when the reference lever hits the projection of the counting disc, it, being on the same shaft with the closing lever and lifting it, does not allow the striking wheels to stop, and the clock strikes as many times as the hands on the dial show. As soon as the reference lever reaches the recess in the counting disc, it moves downward thanks to
the spring pressing the closing lever, which also lowers, and the pin of the first starter wheel rests on the closing lever arm. The mechanism is reset and the clock stops beating.

Rice. 200. Mechanism of striking a clock with a comb: 1 - comb; 2 - comb wheel; 3 - hour wheel; 4 - two pins on a stepped washer; 5 - stepped washer; 6 - two-armed unlocking lever; 7, 8 - closing lever; 9 - the first starting wheel; 10 - comb lifting cam;
11 - the second starting wheel

The wind turbine-regulator, which experiences air resistance during rotation, serves to slow down the movement of the wheels of the striking mechanism during the battle. The windmill is loosely mounted on the axle and is pressed against it by a spring that passes through the groove in the axle (Fig. 199). This prevents the wind turbine from moving longitudinally (up or down). Although the striker wheels and the wind turbine axle stop instantly, this does not lead to damage to the axle pins and the gear train due to the fact that the wind turbine continues to rotate freely by inertia on its axis.

The clock striking mechanism with a comb (Fig. 200) consists of a stepped washer 5, located on the hour wheel and replacing the counting disc, comb 1, wheel 2 fixed on the comb, comb lifting cam 10, lever 7, fixed on one shaft with a locking lever , retarding the reverse movement of the comb.

The stepped washer, as in the first case, carries two pins 4, which raise the two-armed unlocking lever 6. But at the same time, the pin, which is closer to the center of the tribe, raises the unlocking lever 6 so much that the lever 7 passes the comb by only one shortened tooth, whereby the clock will strike only one beat, that is, half an hour. Another pin of the minute tribe, located farther from the center of the tribe, raises the two-armed unlocking lever 6 so much that it allows the comb lever to fall freely onto one of the projections of the stepped washer 5. The lower
the lever with the comb falls, the more blows the fighting mechanism knocks out.

During the fight, the cam 10, turning, returns the comb 1 back. The lever 7, which holds the comb, does not allow it to fall back. At the same time, each overshoot by one tooth of the comb is accompanied by one blow of the hammer on the spring or gong. The striking of the clock ends when, in a watch with a lever stop, the lever holding the comb falls into its original position. In watches with pins-tovsch stopping the fight, the comb cam rests against the pin located at its end (Fig. 201). Otherwise, the design of the combat mechanism is the same as in the previous case.

Rice. 201. Mechanism with pin stopping of the fight: 1 - lever holding the comb; 2 - comb lifting cam; 3 - comb; 4 - pin for stopping the fight

The striking wall pendulum clock is a household clock. In terms of accuracy, they satisfy the need for measuring time in everyday life. The watch has a clock striking device and a half hour.

1. After unpacking the watch, release the pendulum from the holders.It is not recommended to take the pendulum by the load with unprotected hands, in order to avoid corrosion and oxidation of it.
2. Hang the clock on a wall away from windows and heating systems.
3. Remove the shipping bar from the sound strings.
4. Move the fight fence lever (if there is one).

5. Carefully place the pendulum on the hanger with the hanging hook.

6. Set the watch so that the pendulum rod is parallel to the back wall of the case. Parallelism can be achieved by rotating the set screws on the bottom of the case.

7. To wind the chime, insert the key into the left hole on the dial, winding is done clockwise. Move the key to the right hole and insert the travel spring as far as it will go. The watch must be wound every two weeks. For two weeks of operation, the power spring unwinds by 6 full revolutions, the striking spring unwinds by 5.65 revolutions. ! When winding the watch, be careful not to knock the case to the side.

8. To start the clock move, take the pendulum to the side and release it smoothly, the movement should be rhythmic. If this is not observed, carefully move the lower part of the watch case to the right or left, achieve rhythmic strokes of the movement. ! If you cannot achieve the rhythm of the movement by moving the watch case, you should contact the watchmaker.

9. Set the exact time by turning the minute hand. If the hands diverge, set the minute hand to the “12” position, and adjust the hour hand by turning it to the left or right. ! When rotating the minute hand, it is advisable to stop it at the “6” and “12” positions, and enable the clock to strike the hours and half hours.

Adjusting the accuracy of the wall, grandfather clock

If the clock is inaccurate, it is adjusted by moving the weight of the pendulum. If the watch lags behind, the weight must be lifted up by turning the adjusting screw clockwise, if the watch is in a hurry, lower the weight in the same way, counterclockwise. One full turn of the adjusting screw corresponds to a change in stroke of one minute per day.

In order to prevent damage to the watch, when adjusting the stroke, the pendulum must be removed from the suspension.

1. A dry, heated room is required to store or use wall clocks, floor clocks. It is not allowed to store watches in the same room with substances or materials causing their corrosion.
2. A watch with a suspended pendulum should never be carried.
3. The watch mechanism is lubricated with special watch oil of the MTs-3 and PS-4 brands. The service life of the oil is 3 years, during which time it is recommended to clean and lubricate the mechanism. Replacing the oil of the indicated brands with others is not permissible.

To avoid voiding the warranty, it is not recommended to lubricate, disassemble or repair the watch yourself.

For many years now, we have had a wall clock with a Soviet-made pendulum hanging in our houses. Hanging, but not walking. After winding the springs and starting the pendulum, they stop and do not move, so I decided to fix them. It took me a lot of time, I will try to briefly tell you about it.

On the advice of dear members of the forum, I took off the dial and hands, unscrewed the anchor and set the mechanism to soak in Kalosha gasoline. After that, they had to go, but still something interfered with the move.

After repeated attempts to start the clock, I "hammered" a little on them. But the other day, passing through the courtyard, I saw a thrown out watch. Amber, also pendulum, but without a fight and the pendulum itself. But in them there was a detail on which the pendulum itself is attached, and the same one as in my watch. Naturally, I picked them up. I had doubts about this part for a long time, it was all wrinkled, loosened, in general, with signs of use.

So, having replaced the pendulum holder and the rope on which it is hung, I tried to start the mechanism. And lo and behold - the clock has gone. True, five minutes later they got up again. But it was 5 minutes!

After repeated advice with the members of the forum, I aligned the clock not by a plumb line, as I had done earlier, but by ear, to a uniform "tick-tock". And the clock went on. Now it's okay, without stopping. Adjusted the hammers for the right fight, now they signal to me the new hour has arrived.

What is OCHZ - this is a watch produced in the first quarter of 1961, manufactured at the Oryol watch factory in accordance with GOST - 58 years. The mechanism works on four stones, well, not the whole mechanism, but only the balance, or rather its axis.

Each trunnion has a pair of stones, one through acting as a bearing, the other is a flat thrust bearing. Each pair is pressed inside a bushing screw, which is screwed into the mechanism plate and allows you to adjust the balance axis gap between the support stones.

We can say that the design of this table clock to "disgrace" is simple and has a classic example of a watch mechanism. Everything is very simple, the alarm clock mechanism of the same manufacturer is used. The combat mechanism is excluded, and the rest of the structure is left.

Spring-loaded winding wheel (motor), central, intermediate, second, escapement, four classic wheels (angrenage). The next node, an anchor fork, has a pin escapement and balance (pendulum).

All this I, of course, made out to the last nut, washed and cleaned every part of old grease, eliminated defects, in some holes in the plates there was an eleps-shaped working, where the axles of the wheels rotate.

Mechanism parts are ready for assemblywhich I did. When assembling, you need to carefully put the balance in its place, in the very screw-bushings in which the through and support stones are located without breaking the axle pins. And of course, during the assembly process, I do not forget to put the grease in the right places.

The mechanism is assembled, installed in the case, The watch is ready for use, but first, control for daily accuracy for 3-5 days with adjustment. What can be said about the watch itself, after more than 50 years of operation, it is old, but strong, the manufacturing technology is followed, judging by the state of the mechanism.

I want to say a few words about accuracy a mechanical watch, the example described above has a 2nd class of accuracy.

When the first mechanical watches first appeared, displacing solar and sand, they have become a symbol of high accuracy in measuring time, since then the image and symbol of time in general has taken root behind them.

Today is a mechanical watch are still used for timing, but their accuracy is poor. So, a watch of the first class of accuracy gives an error of +40 or -20 seconds every day, which is quite enough for everyday needs.

Inferior precision watches give a large error. The manufacturer is obliged to indicate the maximum deviations, both upward and downward. If the watch begins to lag too late, or vice versa, it is in a hurry, this is already a sufficient reason to contact a watchmaker for their repair.

Common causes of clockwork malfunction is clogging, drying out of the lubricant, natural aging and wear, moisture ingress, irregular winding or excessive twisting of the winding mechanism.

Due to the decreasing accuracy of the movement of mechanical devices Compared to other watches available, mechanical watches are becoming a symbol of prestige and status rather than a truly necessary instrument for measuring time.

Mechanical watches require regular windingif they are not self-winding. Contrary to popular belief, such a system not only does not reduce the accuracy of the course, but on the contrary increases it, because the spring is always in a state close to fully wound, while there is no overvoltage in it.

Finally, permanent winding causes wear on the crown of the watch., the formation of a gap between it and the case through which moisture, dust and dirt enter the mechanism.However, self-winding should not be counted on if you lead a sedentary lifestyle (important for office workers). Best regards, Nikolay, watch repair specialist.

How to repair a wall clock and replace the clock mechanism with your own hands, see my master class with a photo step by step.

I recently talked about how to replace the battery in an electronic wristwatch. Now I would like to talk about wall.

Now, you probably can't find a house that doesn't have a watch made in China or India. Wall Clock - this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or rushes and lags behind, or, which is typical of smooth-running mechanisms, literally starts to “eat up” the batteries.

It is a pity to throw out such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the mechanism by replacing it from another (new, but barbarously broken) clock.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage lies in the fact that if the hands from the “native” watch do not fit in diameter, you can safely install the hands from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.

We carefully fold the unscrewed bolts side by side so as not to accidentally lose.

Remove the mounting plate along with the glass and carefully set it aside.

Carefully remove the hands in order: second, minute, hour.

Be very careful not to bend the arrows.

Fastening mechanisms are, as a rule, of two types. Either with a nut, as in the photo, or with latches.

We move the nut from the “dead center” with any suitable tool: pliers, round-nose pliers, or even side cutters, as in the photo. Then we calmly unscrew it with our hand.

I think everything is clear without words.

We extract the working mechanism from the broken clock in the same way. But in the photo, the mechanism is fastened with latches. It's even easier here.

Using a straight screwdriver, remove the mechanism from the latches. We also keep the hands, because there is a discrepancy between the diameters and we install the mechanism with its hands in the watches being repaired.

Since we removed the mechanism with a nut fastener, and put it in its place without one, the simplest solution would be superglue.

Apply a couple of drops in the places where the mechanism fits and glue the working mechanism to the body.

Using a suitable tool, I recommend squeezing the base of the arrows lightly so that they grip the axle more tightly.

We put in place the hands in the sequence: hour, minute, second.

To avoid an error in the course, we set everything exactly at 12-00.

Before installing the glass, be sure to wipe its back surface, and then, holding by the edges, put it in place.

Then we put the glass retainer in place. Gently turn the watch over and screw the bolts into place.

After the watch is assembled, we check with the adjusting wheel whether the hands intersect with each other. Do-it-yourself wall clock repair is finished.

If everything is in order, we return the watch to its rightful place.

Turning to watchmakers who make their own watches
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Good day!
More recently, I spontaneously got carried away with the repair of old table clocks. Recently I purchased the wall-mounted "Yantar". I think that the exact model is not important in this case.
Dial view

Mechanism view

Travel spring view

So I am confused by the appearance of the travel spring. As you can see, the spring case is cracked, the lid is constantly sliding off it, and the spring itself with the case is periodically skewed. Can this situation be corrected? I found the spring of battle and changed, but there is no such

Electromechanical wall clock Amber comes from the 80s. In this case, this is the simplest option without a fight in a simple (although with a claim to design) plastic case.

The frequency setting element of the mechanism is a spring pendulum, and a generator with a pair of coils is engaged in swinging. This determines not the highest accuracy. Powered by one element 373 (aka type D).

Unfortunately, after 30+ years, the mechanisms of watches of this type and age are usually in a deplorable state - the accuracy of the watches is poor, the battery runs out quickly, they can just get up. This is due to the lack of maintenance and trivial wear and tear. Of course, you can slightly refresh the mechanism, but usually the parts require not only lubrication, but also cleaning, which is not suitable for everyone at home. Just pouring watch oil in different places usually does not save for a long time, if at all changes something. In addition, the abundance of Soviet plastic from the 80s in the mechanism raises some doubts about the outcome of this enterprise.

The radical remedy is replacing the mechanism. Modern movements are much more compact and are usually quartz-stabilized and powered by a single AA cell. Importantly, the replacement mechanism is usually virtually silent! True, now the mechanism will be almost completely plastic and not authentic Soviet, but Chinese.

First of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old mechanism - this must be done carefully. The dial with the old movement must be unscrewed from the outer case and removed from it, the hands are simply tightly mounted on the shafts - they must be removed. The mechanism is attracted to the dial by a brass nut - it is located on the front side under the hands. This nut does not always give in - if so, it is better to wield from the side of the mechanism (unless, of course, it is dear to you as a memory) - you can use a drill and cutting wheels. The new mechanism has a similar fastening, but its length is shorter, so the elastic band under the mechanism most likely will not work - I suggest damping the strips of electrical tape with a sticker. The mechanism should not turn, but do not get carried away especially with a tightening. We also lose our native fasteners on the wall (in the version where the fasteners are directly above the mechanism) - there are replacement mechanisms with a loop, but I don’t really like this option - and the clock is not a fluff, and it’s not known whether that loop will be enough for your nail in the wall. As an option, I propose to fix a wire between the screws for attaching to the outer casing and make a suspension from it.

There is a positive point - most likely it will be possible to preserve the native hands - for the minute and hour landings they coincide. Our second shaft is thinner, but if desired, the bore hole can be unclenched - it will hold. However, you can try to find a mechanism with similar openwork arrows, although their length will have to be clarified.

An important point in setting the hands is to synchronize them correctly, that is, when the minute one looks at 30 minutes, the hour one should show half of any hour.

How to repair a wall clock and replace the clock mechanism with your own hands, see my master class with a photo step by step.

I recently talked about how to replace the battery in an electronic wristwatch. Now I would like to talk about wall.

Now, you probably can't find a house that doesn't have a watch made in China or India. Wall Clock - this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or rushes and lags behind, or, which is typical of smooth-running mechanisms, literally starts to “eat up” the batteries.

It is a pity to throw out such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the mechanism by replacing it from another (new, but barbarously broken) clock.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage lies in the fact that if the hands from the “native” watch do not fit in diameter, you can safely install the hands from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.

We carefully fold the unscrewed bolts side by side so as not to accidentally lose.

Remove the mounting plate along with the glass and carefully set it aside.

Carefully remove the hands in order: second, minute, hour.

Be very careful not to bend the arrows.

Fastening mechanisms are, as a rule, of two types. Either with a nut, as in the photo, or with latches.

We move the nut from the “dead center” with any suitable tool: pliers, round-nose pliers, or even side cutters, as in the photo. Then we calmly unscrew it with our hand.

I think everything is clear without words.

We extract the working mechanism from the broken clock in the same way. But in the photo, the mechanism is fastened with latches. It's even easier here.

Using a straight screwdriver, remove the mechanism from the latches. We also keep the hands, because there is a discrepancy between the diameters and we install the mechanism with its hands in the watches being repaired.

Since we removed the mechanism with a nut fastener, and put it in its place without one, the simplest solution would be superglue.

Apply a couple of drops in the places where the mechanism fits and glue the working mechanism to the body.

Using a suitable tool, I recommend squeezing the base of the arrows lightly so that they grip the axle more tightly.

We put in place the hands in the sequence: hour, minute, second.

To avoid an error in the course, we set everything exactly at 12-00.

Before installing the glass, be sure to wipe its back surface, and then, holding by the edges, put it in place.

Then we put the glass retainer in place. Gently turn the watch over and screw the bolts into place.

After the watch is assembled, we check with the adjusting wheel whether the hands intersect with each other. Do-it-yourself wall clock repair is finished.

If everything is in order, we return the watch to its rightful place.

Really, rubbish

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"OWN HAND REPAIR OF WATCHES"

A beginner's guide

Watchmaking devices can be classified in different ways: according to the principle of operation, according to the structure of the oscillatory system, and finally, according to their purpose.

According to the principle of operation, watch movements can be mechanical, electronic-mechanical or electronic. The oscillatory systems used in the watch device (balance, pendulum, quartz generator, tuning fork, etc.) depend on the way of use and purpose of the watch. So, for example, a pendulum clock can only work if the pendulum is suspended vertically, that is, the clock must be stationary. This is a floor clock, wall clock or (in rare cases) table clock. The balance oscillatory system, in contrast to the pendulum one, is not afraid of movement of the mechanism, therefore it is used mainly in wrist or pocket watches.

Mechanical watches, in addition, can be subdivided according to the type of motor used: kettlebell or spring. The simplest in design is a wall pendulum clock with a kettlebell motor, such as a cuckoo clock.

Mechanical watches, in addition to the main mechanism, can also have various additional devices. For example, in an oversized watch, it can be a battle, a calendar or signaling device; in wristwatches - automatic spring winding, stopwatch, signaling or calendar device, etc.

Electromechanical clocks can be either wrist or stationary (table or wall). Electronic and electronic-mechanical watches can also be equipped with additional devices.

The book is mainly devoted to the repair of the most common watches - wristwatches and alarm clocks.

In mechanical watches, these are: the engine, the main wheel system, the oscillating system or regulator, the escapement or stroke, the pointer mechanism, the mechanism for winding the spring and shifting the hands.

The watch is powered by the engine.

It can be spring or kettlebell. A running engine stores energy, and then transfers it to the regulator and the switch mechanism through the wheel system. The main wheel system consists of toothed wheels (second, intermediate, central) that transmit energy from the engine through the escapement to the regulator and switch mechanism. The regulator controls the unwinding of the spring (or the opening of the weight). The escapement, which is an intermediate unit, periodically releases the gear train in the wheel system and transfers the spring energy to the regulator. The pointer mechanism consists of a system of toothed wheels (transfer, bill, watch) and transfers movement to the arrows from the main wheel system.

The mechanism for winding the spring and shifting the hands consists of a winding shaft, a drum and winding wheel and a system of levers. The base of the movement is platinum, one of the sides of which is called the pavement, and the other - the dial. On the bridge side there are: the engine, the main wheel system (or angrenage), the escape wheel, the escapement fork, the balance-spring, the automatic winding mechanism for watches with such a system, and on the dial - the arrow mechanism, the mechanism for winding the spring and shifting the hands and the calendar mechanism if provided.

The crown is screwed onto the winding shaft.

When the crown rotates, that is, when the watch is wound, the shaft also rotates, transmitting the movement to the winding wheel and then to the drum wheel put on the drum shaft. The inner coil of the mainspring is attached to it, and when the wheel rotates, the spring is wound onto the shaft. When the wound spring begins to unwind, the rotation of the drum is transmitted to the central wheel. The central wheel, in turn, rotates the intermediate wheel, and it is the second wheel, which drives the second hand. Then, from the second wheel, the movement is transmitted to the escape wheel, which maintains the balance oscillations. Finally, through the bill wheel, the movement is transmitted to the hour wheel with an hour hand.

To repair watches at home, you will need: a magnifying glass, several screwdrivers with a blade diameter of 0.6 to 2 mm, 2-3 tweezers, a set of keys, pliers, wire cutters, files, a needle, a knife, a vernier caliper, cleaning and lubrication tools ( oiler, brushes, rubber bulb, etc.). Gasoline for lubrication can be poured into an ordinary teacup, only you need to tightly close it. You can use old toothbrushes as part brushes.