Do-it-yourself repair of a mechanical washing machine programmer

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a mechanical washing machine programmer from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The execution of the programs of some automatic washing machines (already receding into the past) is based on the operation of special mechanical devices.

They are called differently: programmers, timers or washing machine command devices.

The controls are controlled by a contact switch driven by a series of cams. Movement to the cams is transmitted from a synchronous motor through a series of gears and levers.

They consist of two components: an electromechanical timer and a control board. The control board is soldered directly to the connectors on the timer and performs the following operations:

- controls washing programs and additional functions
- controls the timer motor
- controls and monitors the drum motor

All other components and devices are powered by the contacts of the programmer.

1 - stepper motor, 2 - transmission gears,
3 and 4 - cam packs, 5 - sliding contacts

It consists of a set of software discs with tabs and grooves. The ridges and grooves are called cams.

The entire set of discs with cams drives the synchronous motor with a gearbox in rotation, as shown in the figure.

The command devices are reliable in operation, but when the equipment is more than 10 years old and they become unusable.

The most common malfunction is burning of the contacts for supplying voltage to the heating element or input network contacts.

It is enough to rinse and clean the burnt contact. Special liquids for flushing contacts are sold (KONTAKT S, Caig Deoxit).

Spray on the commander's mechanisms and perhaps disassembling it will not be required.

Scroll the gears clockwise a couple of times in a circle until the fluid will disperse through the mechanism.

Be sure to check the end device for voltage. When disassembling, it is better to photograph the location of the elements to avoid mistakes.

Video (click to play).

The timer is faulty only if there is voltage at its input, but not on the device controlled in this position.

The programmer is a knob on the control panel of most washing machines. It looks simple, but in fact it is a complex mechanism that controls the activation and deactivation of various washing programs, the collection and drainage of water. This is a whole control unit, consisting of many parts. Looks like a protruding knob on a control panel.

Its role is undoubtedly important, since the end result depends on its performance. This mechanism is located near knobs, displays, buttons. Some people call it - a command device or a timer programmer for a washing machine.

The programmers are reliable and less sensitive to voltage surges than the mostly premium machines with electronic control panels, which undoubtedly have their advantages. Without a programmer, machines with fuzzy logic function can cope with washing processes.

Exists two types of programmers: hybrid (mechanical) and electronic.

Electronic have a more advanced mechanism with a wide range of functions.

Their disadvantage is that, like all electronic devices, they are sensitive to network surges.

Hybrid more modest, but they are distinguished by long operability and reliability, if necessary, by a quick and cheap repair of the washing machine programmer. The service life of the programmer is not short - from 10 years.

And if we consider the frequency of breakage of units in washing equipment, then it will stand in the last places.

However, external influences can accelerate the process of wear and tear. If there are children in the house, then they often speed up the process of breaking the programmer without any malicious intent.

What is the breakdown of the programmer characterized by?

The machine refuses to turn on, but the power grid is in order.
The equipment turns on, but there is no reaction to the timer regulator.
There is no wash time on the electronic display.
Flashing lights and error.
Washing starts, but there is a failure in the program and in the washing time up or down.

Parts of the programmer may break. The mechanical programmer of the washing machine consists of:

synchromotor;
contacts;
cams responsible for the operation of the synchromotor;
reducer;
gears.

It depends on the model of the washing machine. There are some things to consider when disassembling. If, for example, talk about the Ariston typewriter, then:

The removed programmer is subject to careful inspection. On the side you will see the clips that secure the cover. They snap off with a screwdriver. There are many springs under the cover that try to scatter in different directions when removed.
After removing the cover, you will see the board from the wrong side. You need to get it out and put it aside.
Next, a gear is taken out and the gears are carefully examined. If there is debris, they are cleaned.
We turn our attention to the board. If damage, burnt parts or tracks are noticeable, then they must be re-soldered.
If there is no damage, then using a multimeter, the resistance at the contacts is checked.
Next, we get all the gears and the motor core of the part. The winding is checked on the engine in order to exclude burnt areas. If found, replacement will be required.
The integrity of all elements and contacts is checked.
The programmer is assembled in the reverse order.

The programmer is the most important control element in the washing machine. He is responsible for choosing the washing mode, stepfather and soaking. And in the latest models, this part is also responsible for drying the laundry. This element is also called a timer or a command device. The programmer is found in many automatic washing machines. Outwardly, it looks like a round knob located on the control panel.

Causes of breakage

The programmer, like many other parts of the typewriter, sometimes fails. In this case, repairs are carried out or replacing the washing machine programmer... Failure of this element can occur for the following reasons:

• power supply voltage jumps. In the event of power failures, circuit boards and wiring malfunctions often occur. As a result, the software crashes and errors occur during the operation of the washing machine. In this case, software reinstallation is required.

• careless handling of the device. It's no secret that many people are very careless about their technique. Washing machines quite often receive mechanical damage that does not allow it to fully function.

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• water got on the metal gears of the commander, they rusted and began to rotate with difficulty. Replacing the washing machine programmer Is a very expensive procedure. For this reason, it is best to try cleaning the surface first;

• the heating element is defective. Very often, the breakdown of the heating element leads to the failure of other parts of the washing machine. Also, a breakdown of this element can lead to malfunction of the software control. If the heating element is very hot, the wheel, buttons and other elements may melt.

The washing machine will not be able to fully perform its functions if the programmer fails.Therefore, the replacement of this element must be carried out immediately.

There are several signs that you need to change the washing machine programmer or repair it:

• the machine does not turn on if the power supply is working properly. The cause of such a malfunction may be a part of the control unit, in particular, the programmer;

• Before disassembling the washing machine, it is necessary to check the condition of the socket and the power cord;

• washing machine does not set programs or they fail during washing. And the time shown on the display does not correspond to the set washing mode;

• For some models of washing machines, the malfunction of the programmer can be determined by external ghosts. For example, if all the lights on the control panel are blinking at the same time.

What to do when this control circuit element becomes faulty? This problem can be solved in two ways. You can try to repair the washing machine yourself or contact a special organization.

If the machine has an electromechanical programmer, then you need to buy a new one, which is similar and replace this element.

Replacing the electronic version is much more difficult. Let's figure it out how to change the washing machine programmer with your own hands... For this you need:

• buy a branded programmer;

• download drivers for the electronic device;

• download software for your model;

• complete the installation of all software on the computer and check the health of the equipment;

• connect the controller to the computer and the control panel of the machine;

• Install the program and driver on the command device, as well as perform the firmware.

It's better to buy a branded programmer. Such a device is tested by the manufacturer, it is much easier to connect it. It is also much easier to find software for such a programmer.

Today, all manufacturers of washing machines also produce parts for them. For this reason, it is not at all difficult to select the required part for a specific brand. Spare parts can be purchased from company representatives, ordered in the online store or in service centers.

The programmer is one of the most important control parts in the washing machine, which is responsible for choosing the required washing mode, including spinning, soaking, and, in new models of machines, for drying. The programmer is also called a command device or timer, it is used in most automatic washing machines and looks like a protruding round knob on the control panel.

Only machines with a microprocessor and the presence of the fuzzy logic function can do without a programmer; control in such units is carried out using a touch or keypad. And if the programmer fails, then washing in such a machine is impossible. But how to understand and check that the malfunction of the machine is in this particular part, is it possible to repair it with your own hands, we propose to figure it out together.

The programmer is an important part of the control unit in the washing machine, which consists of a large number of parts.

These parts can break down over time, which means they may need to be repaired. But in order to carry out such a repair, you need to deal with the programmer device. The electromechanical command apparatus of an automatic machine includes the following main elements:

synchromotor;
reducer;
contacts;
gears;
cams (projections and recesses) that drive the synchromotor.

There are two types of programmers:

The hybrid commander is considered the most reliable, but its functionality is limited. The electronic units of the automatic machine control unit are more advanced, have a large number of functions and fine tuning.But they are prone to more frequent breakdowns, they can react to power surges, get lost in work, and turn off arbitrarily.

Breakdown of the programmer can be determined by several signs:

the machine stopped turning on and at the same time everything is in order with the electrical network, then the cause of the malfunction may be caused by one of the elements of the control unit and the controller as well;

Be sure to check the power cord and outlet for breakdowns before disassembling the machine.

during washing, the program gets lost, the time does not correspond to the selected mode;

in some models of washing machines, an external sign may be the blinking of all indicators on the control panel.

Despite the fact that the command apparatus is a fairly reliable part of the washing machine, it can break down in 10 years. The main reason noted by the masters is the careless handling of the unit by users. So, for example, if a child approached the machine during washing and began to turn the handle, then this may be enough for the programmer to fail.

Another reason for breakdowns is power surges in the electrical network. In addition, moisture getting inside the programmer can also cause malfunction. Well, we do not exclude defects in the production of parts.

We start repairing the programmer with its correct disassembly. The problem is that there are quite a few types of programmers, and there is nothing to say about the models, each model has its own disassembly features. Let's talk about the features of disassembling the programmer using the example of a device from an automatic washing machine Ariston. The procedure is as follows:

We take the programmer removed from the typewriter and carefully examine it. We find the clamps on the side holding the plastic cover, pry them off with a screwdriver and remove the cover.

Important! When removing the cover, be extremely careful, there are several small springs under it, which tend to fly apart when disassembling the programmer, do not lose them.

After we remove the cover, under it we will see an inverted board. Carefully take it out and set it aside.
We take out the central gear and examine the small gears. Often, debris is clogged in them, which interferes with the normal operation of the mechanism.
Now we carefully examine the board. Often you can see burnt elements or paths on it. They will have to be re-soldered.
If there are no burnt tracks, then we take a multimeter and measure the resistance at the contacts of the control board, there is something.
We continue to disassemble the programmer. Now our task is to remove all the gears one by one, and then the core of the programmer motor.
Next, you need to visually check the integrity of all elements, wipe the contacts with alcohol and assemble the device in the reverse order. The repair of this control has been completed.

Note! When disassembling the programmer engine, do not forget to inspect the winding, because it can also burn, which will disrupt the operation of the control device. If a burnt wire is found, it will have to be removed, and a new one should be wound in its place.

Experts strongly advise against undertaking the repair of programmers of German washing machines such as Miele or Siemens with their own hands. Their devices have a complex design, represented by several compressed in pairs plates. When you start to disassemble such programmers, the plates fly in different directions and then it is extremely difficult to assemble them, since the fragile plastic grooves are damaged during the expansion of the plates. For our part, we advise you to entrust the repair of programmers from German washing machines to masters.

It should be noted that German programmers are not the most difficult thing yet. In washing machines Gorenie, programmers with a soldered control board are installed. To repair them, you need to masterfully own a soldering iron, and not an ordinary one, but a special one with a thin tip. Even the majority of masters do not undertake the repair of such programmers, therefore, for our part, we will advise you not to waste your energy, but simply replace the broken programmer from the Gorenie washing machine with a new one.

In conclusion, we note that repairing the command apparatus of a machine with an automatic machine with your own hands is not always a rewarding business. There are devices with the simplest design, in which it is not a sin to dig deeper, it can and will not succeed, but it will not get any worse. But another command apparatus is so complicated that repairing it is simply not advisable, or it can only be done by a good master.

Electromechanical programmers, which have so far been used and are used in many CMA models, represent a very complex functional unit. This design, which has been worked out over the years, will not leave the scene for a long time, so we will consider how similar command devices of common types are arranged.In many CMA models, the electromechanical programmer is the “brain of the machine”. Similar programmers are also used in blocks with microcontrollers.To begin with, let's recall what an electromechanical programmer is and how it works. So, in fig. 1 shows a schematic diagram of an electromechanical programmer.Rice. one. Electromechanical programmer deviceIt consists of a set of software discs with tabs and grooves. The ridges and grooves are called cams. The entire set of discs with cams drives a synchromotor with a gearbox that reduces the speed of the synchromotor (timermotor).The appearance and structure of the synchromotors are shown in Fig. 2. There are two types.The synchromotor consists of a housing containing a working winding, pole pieces and an annular magnetic rotor. In order for this rotor to rotate in a strictly defined direction, a special curly insert is used. It can be clearly seen in Fig. 2.Thanks to this insert, the magnetic rotor can only rotate in one direction. Thus, depending on the configuration of the insert, the rotor of the synchromotor can rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise.In fig. 3 shows another type of synchromotor disassembled.Rice. 3. Synchromotor deviceIt also consists of a pole piece housing, a magnetic rotor and a winding coil. The winding on the frame is insulated with adhesive tape, that is, it is made in an open way, unlike the previous types of synchromotors, in which the winding is filled with a compound directly in the frame.The direction of rotation of the rotor is provided by three gears under the top cover. The frequency of rotation of the rotors of the synchromotors is 500 rpm, the resistance of the working winding is 9-10 kOhm. All windings are designed to be connected to a voltage of 220 V (in the Russian standard).So, the synchromotor drives the gears of the reduction gear and a set of program disks (program drum) with cams in rotation. Cam discs are divided into two main groups: "fast" and "slow" cams. Each of the program disks interacts with the pusher levers, which, in fact, switch the executive contacts.In fig. 4 shows the switching process: in each of the contact groups there is a movable (switchable) contact, which can occupy three fixed positions.Rice. 4. Contact switching processSome programmers have additional contacts that serve to supply voltage to the CMA circuitry during the wash cycle. These contacts are closed with each other only when the programmer knobs are pulled "towards themselves", for example, as in Fig. 5, i.e. when starting a washing program.Rice. 5. Programmer device with built-in switchThe switching functions of the cams are different: "fast" cams are used to switch the direction of rotation (reverse) of the driving motor and are driven by a synchromotor. "Slow" cams provide switching of wash modes, and with them the programmer knob with symbols rotates.We especially note - there are models of programmers in which the drive of the "slow" cams is mechanically disconnected from the gearbox of the synchromotor for the period of heating the water in the tank. Disconnection is performed using an electromagnet located on the end of the programmer housing (Fig. 6).Rice. 6 Programmers with electromagnet "thermostop"This electromagnet, like the function it performs, is called a "thermostop". In SMA with microcontroller units, such a shutdown is performed using a low-power triac, which, on command from the microcontroller, stops supplying the supply voltage to the synchromotor, and the “fast” cams function is performed by the relay.

The contacts of these relays switch the direction of rotation of the drive motor. In simpler CMA models, the thermostop function is performed by a thermostat to set the temperature. The supply voltage of the programmer synchromotor is connected by the contacts of this thermostat after some heating of the water (usually up to 30 ° C).So, we got acquainted with the general device of the programmers, and now we turn to the consideration of specific designs.Unfortunately, it is impossible to describe all command devices within the framework of one article, therefore, again, we will study their internal structure using the example of the most common ones. But first, let's make one caveat. As you know, almost all household appliances are designed for repair by replacing blocks, and large service centers do not welcome "craftsmen".However, in our case, we will talk about hopeless situations when a new programmer (or a module of a control unit with a programmer) cannot be obtained or its delivery will have to wait for several months. So, knowing the device of the contact system of programmers, the vast majority of them can be quickly repaired. This will be justified and, moreover, beneficial: as a rule, the defect consists only in the burning of a couple or two of the contacts.Although programmers are considered non-separable units, with certain skills they can be completely disassembled and restored. The main defects, as already mentioned, arise in the contact systems of the programmers from the ingress of water or washing solution or from short circuits in external circuits - in this case, the contacts burn out. It was also quite often observed that the contacts that commutate a powerful load burned: heating elements, windings of the driving motors and from short circuits in a frayed wiring harness.Let's start our tour by looking at the simplest types of programmers.These are programmers with one or two removable side covers. The covers from the getinax can be easily removed from the grooves in the case. In fig. 7 shows two programmers with the side covers removed (by the way, these covers only protect against dust).Washing machine: troubleshooting and DIY repairIt is no longer possible to imagine a normal life without a washing machine, which has become an indispensable assistant in everyday life. However, like any device, it can break. It is not necessary to immediately look for a service center, it is quite possible that the malfunction can be found and eliminated by hand.Diagnosing the problem is quite simple, it is more difficult to eliminate the cause and assemble the device so as not to miss anything. To avoid problems, we will try to sort everything out on the shelves and explain the procedure.The main elements of any washing machine are the mechanical part: the engine, drum, belt drive, water supply valve and drainage, cuffs and seals. Next comes a number of sensors: temperature, filling level.Last but not least is the control unit, fully electronic or partly mechanical.The drum, the calipers that hold it, the calipers with bearings on which it rotates are more susceptible to wear in a washing machine. Over time, seals and oil seals wipe, water enters the bearing, flushing out the grease and leading to active corrosion. The second option is corrosion of the tank support calipers, usually made of aluminum and capable of crumbling over time.The second most important group of problems is related to sensors. The temperature sensor is quite stable and problem-free, but if there is a thick layer of scale on it, then its readings are greatly distorted, which leads to overheating of the water during washing and the rapid growth of new scale, problems and breakdowns. The level sensor breaks down much more often. If the chamber, the nozzle from the container or the hose to the sensor become clogged with powder, scale or debris, the sensor stops responding, which can lead to overflow and flooding.Cuffs and seals on modern machines do not rot or dry out, so they can only be damaged by yourself as a result of carelessness or accident. They cannot be repaired, so only a replacement.A fully electronic control unit breaks down if the conditions for connecting the power supply and grounding, which are strictly necessary for a washing machine, are violated. In addition, sometimes a defect or a malfunction in the memory of the controller pops up, due to which the normal operation of the device is no longer possible. For partially mechanical control, oxidation of contacts is characteristic. However, this is also only a consequence of external factors: high humidity, ingress of water or detergent, etc.If the machine is controlled by a microcontroller, then it is important to pay attention to the service error codes. The decoding of the codes can be found in the instructions or in the service manual, which is quite easy to find on the Internet. Depending on the error code, you can already start repairing.If the machine is partially mechanically controlled, then you can check its operation according to a simple algorithm by choosing the desired symptom-cause combination from the table:The washing machine is no longer a luxury item for modern housewives. Today this "workhorse" is installed in almost every, even the most modest home. But no matter how modern and wonderful household appliances may seem, they still tend to break. The easiest way in such a situation, of course, is to invite a specialist who will quickly fix the malfunction. True, it will not be cheap.But you can do it differently. It is not so difficult to repair a washing machine yourself. You don't need to have any special skills for this. You just need to carefully understand the structure of the washing machine and understand the principle of its operation. Therefore, if your washing machine breaks down, then, after carefully reading this article, you can fix at least half of the unpleasant situations with your own hands. So let's get started.All household washing units not only have a similar device, but work on the same principle.

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And everything is fine here? Moving further along the wire. You will need to remove the outer panels to check the terminal connections and ring the power cord. Just remember to unplug the plug before doing this.

If your automatic machine has a mechanical timer, it may be the cause of the breakdown in it. Rotate the knob until you hear the drum spinning. If it works, then the unit is most likely burned out and will have to be replaced.

Another reason the washing machine won't turn on may be a closed intake valve. Make sure it is in the "open" position and that water enters the drum.

There may also be several reasons for this:

Heating element burned out. If this happens, the sequence of processes is lost and the washing does not start. The assembly needs to be replaced.
The belt drive has broken. We'll have to completely disassemble the machine to see this.
The water level or temperature sensors are out of order.
Burnt out processor. The washing machine does not receive any commands and does not understand what it needs to do.
Inlet valve defective. It may not open well or close tightly as a result of a blockage. It is necessary to remove the blockage, and so that the situation does not recur again, install an additional filter at the inlet.
The most unpleasant and expensive reason to repair is a burnt out electric motor. It will definitely not be possible to eliminate such a breakdown on your own, of course, if you do not know how to rewind electric motors.

If the washing machine does not draw water or does it very badly, there may be several reasons for this:

the supply valve is closed;
the inlet hose is clogged or deformed; you need to straighten it and clear the blockage;
the intake filter is coked; to clean it, turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the machine, remove the filter and rinse it under a strong stream of water, and then perform all the steps in reverse order;
the intake valve is clogged and out of order; you need to turn off the water and replace it;
the water level regulator is out of order; when the water level in the drum rises, the displaced air presses on the pressure regulator and the switch is triggered; if the system is clogged or damaged, no water will be drawn.

Another reason why the machine gets water into the machine very slowly or does not flow at all may be due to the low pressure in the system. This is not a breakdown and you will not be able to fix it with your own hands. As soon as the pressure in the system returns to normal, everything will correct itself. If this situation repeats regularly, then to eliminate it, you need to raise the pressure in the system. For example, equip a pressure tank in the attic of a private house or under the ceiling of an apartment.

If the washing machine stops during washing and does not finish it, there may be several reasons:

Most often, the washing machine does not spin the laundry because the drain system is clogged. To remedy the situation, you need to clean the filter and remove hair, threads and various small objects that have entered the system.

If it does not help, then the pump may have burnt out and the water from the tank is not pumped out.

When the water drains off normally, and the spinning does not work, then the drive belt is worn out or stretched. To fix the problem, it must be tightened or replaced with a new one.

Check the selected mode, perhaps the wash program includes a pause.
Inspect the drive belt.It probably jumped off or stretched out. Press on the belt to check the tension. Its offset should be approximately 12 mm. If your washing machine is equipped with a tensioner, loosen or tighten the belt to the correct level. In the case when such a design is not provided, the only way out of the situation is to replace the belt.
Pull on the loading door. If the latch is broken or jammed and the door does not close properly, the drum will not work. Open the door and close it abruptly again, press firmly. If all else fails, the lock is broken and needs to be replaced.
Ring the electric motor. It is likely that it burned out.

This malfunction can also be caused by several reasons.

Opening delay. The door of the washing machine may not open because the drum has not yet finished rotating and the washing program has not been completed. One or two minutes after the end of the process, the lock will unscrew itself.
There is still water in the tank. Many washing machines are programmed so that until the water is completely pumped out of the tank, the lock will not open. To open the door, you need to forcibly drain the water and check if the drain filter is clogged. After that, everything should work out.
The interlock switch is broken and needs to be replaced.

Such a malfunction can be determined by the nature of the sound that the machine makes. If you hear uneven metallic ringing, banging, or rattling that stops when the drum stops, it is most likely that small metal objects have entered the machine. These can be coins, nuts, keys that fell out of pockets. (See also: Why the washing machine makes a lot of noise during spinning)

A buzzing sound that becomes quieter when the door is pressed firmly indicates a broken latch. If it is not repaired in time, the door can jam at the most inopportune moment.

A squeal while the drum rotates indicates a slipping of the drive belt. Try to pull it on, everything should work out.

Crackling and knocking during drum operation indicates bearing wear. We'll have to replace the bearing in the washing machine. If this is not done, the shaft can be broken and the repair of the machine will be much more expensive.

In order to determine exactly where and how much it flows, you need to do a simple operation. Dry the floor and place a dry cloth under the machine. Run a short wash cycle without laundry or powder. Examine the rag carefully, you will see from which side you need to look for a leak.

The main reasons for the leakage of the washing machine can be due to: cracks in the hoses, loosening of the clamps, distortion or rupture of the seal on the door, and so on. If all parts of the machine are intact, the reason may be that the sewer is clogged and the water simply has nowhere to go.

First of all, you need to disassemble the machine and inspect the heating element. It is likely that too much scale has formed on it or that it has burned out. In the first case, it is enough to clean the heater from limescale, in the second, the unit will have to be replaced. (See also: How to descale a washing machine)

If the automatic machine does not heat the water, then the reason may lie in the water level regulator. When the device is broken, the unit simply "does not understand" that there is enough water and it is time to turn on the heating element.

Broken thermostat is another likely cause. It turns off the heating element even before the water heats up to the required temperature.

The most harmless reason may be choosing the wrong washing mode. See if the switch is in the rinse delay mode. It is also likely that the wash program has stopped due to a lack of electricity - check the plugs.

Another quickly removable reason that water does not leave the washer can be clogging of the filter or drain pipe, as well as its bending.Check and clean these parts and reconnect the clipper.

A clogged or broken pump is another cause of a malfunction. Forcibly drain the water, disconnect the pump, clean it or replace it with a new one.

The next reason due to which the washing machine does not drain the water may lie in the electrical part: any contacts are oxidized, the timer or water level switch is out of order. All these areas need to "ring" and, if necessary, replace the damaged part.

The first reason that the washing machine suddenly starts walking around the apartment is a strong overload. Remove some of the items from the drum and follow the instructions in the future. If there are not very many things, they may have got tangled and strayed into a lump. Untangle the knot and load the clipper more evenly.

If the washing machine jumps or vibrates when spinning even with a small amount of items, then the reason may be a break in the spring holding the drum. When replacing the spring, carefully inspect the counterweights that are bolted to the tank. It is possible that the fasteners are loose and the weights are loose. Correct the situation.

See also - Replacing shock absorbers in a washing machine with your own hands

Also, the machine, which is not set according to the level, "starts to dance". Adjust the position of the washer using the feet. They have adjusting bolts. If they are not enough, just place a few sheets of thick cardboard in the right places.

Our partners, the RemonTechnik service center, are ready to assist in the repair of large household appliances of any complexity. Didn't do it yourself? Seek help from qualified craftsmen.

Video (click to play).

As you can see, repairing washing machines is not that difficult. But is it possible to make the washing machine break as little as possible? It turns out you can. The most frequent breakdowns of washing machines are associated precisely with improper operation. In order for the unit to serve you as long as possible, you need to follow some simple rules:

carefully study the instructions and strictly follow all of its points;
do not overload the machine;
use special detergents containing a water softener;
once every three months, run the longest wash cycle without clothes, but with a descaler, this will help keep the heating element in order;
carefully check all pockets for small items and debris;
regularly clean filters at the inlet and outlet of the system;
install an additional cleaning filter, this will protect the system from dirt and debris;
after each wash, leave the door ajar and wipe the rubber seal dry;
purchase and install a stabilizer, it will help protect the electrical part of the machine from power surges.