Important! When checking electrical equipment with subsequent repair, you must first disconnect the device from the network.
In order for the kitchen unit to work for many years without serious breakdowns, regular preventive maintenance is required. After each cooking, wait until the stove cools down, wash thoroughly and remove food debris from the surface ... This will protect the equipment from various blockages.
Advice! You can use baking soda to remove burnt food from the surface. This will speed up the cleaning process and add disinfection. Cast iron burners and grates are cleaned with a wire brush.
It is not difficult to repair a gas stove. But it's even easier to keep it clean and tidy. And then the irreplaceable kitchen appliance will serve for many years, delighting with impeccable work.
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15 electromechanical timer, 16 mechanical timer, 17 oven light - Operating instructions GEFEST 3502
5.15 ELECTROMECHANICAL TIMER
The timer has two functions for controlling the oven:
1. Setting the oven operation time (no more than 120 minutes), after which
heating is automatically turned off.
This function is convenient to use when you know the mode, temperature and time.
- Use the operating mode knob to set the required cooking method (for example,
turn on the upper and lower heating elements
- Use the thermostat knob to set the heating temperature.
- Turn the timer knob clockwise to set the time
In this case, the oven will turn on and, after working out the set time, automatically
disconnect. The timer will beep.
It should be remembered that, as a rule, before placing the pies, the oven should
warm up for 15–20 minutes. This must be taken into account when setting
During cooking, you can change the set time by turning the knob to
2. Operation of the oven in normal manual mode.
If the baking time is unknown and you need to monitor the readiness yourself, set
this, by setting the mode and temperature of heating the oven, we get the usual conditions
cooking with manual shutdown.
After finishing cooking, set all knobs to zero.
Attention: WHEN THE TIMER KNOB IS IN THE ZERO POSITION,
OVEN HEATING WITH THE SET MODE AND TEMPERATURE NOT
Set the desired timer function and the oven will turn on.
To cock the timer, it is necessary to turn the knob clockwise from the position
"0" to "60" and, turning in the opposite direction, set to the required mark
the time after which the call will ring.
The light button turns on the light in the oven. This makes it possible to observe
cooking without opening the door.
In cookers equipped with a spit, the drive is switched on simultaneously with the light.
skewered.
- The time starts counting down according to the set program, i.e. before the oven
the selected temperature is set. This needs to be corrected when assigning
The oven in the "volumetric heating" mode picks up the temperature of 200 ° C in 15 minutes.
Do-it-yourself gas stove repair is prohibited by the legislation of the Russian Federation. True, criminal liability has not yet been provided for, if an accident occurs, troubles are foreseen. In the hero-city of Volgograd, one wise guy brought the combustion products of a water heater into the ventilation hole. 4 people were killed. The authorities classified the case under the heading of causing death by negligence. Gas service technicians have the right to replace equipment and perform service work. Actual, starting with liners, ending with the transition to another type of fuel. Here are a couple of guidelines, not a user guide, just general techniques.
Darina, Hansa, Ardo - so different and the same at the same time. The repair of gas stoves Hephaestus is like two peas in a pod like the repair of Ariston; gas stoves are made up of standard units. It is enough to consider a single device to understand the circuit. Stock up on a handbook to properly withstand gas pressure. When set correctly, the flame is even and blue in color. Orange flashes indicate an imbalance in the fuel mixture. If the settings are incorrect, the flame breaks out (especially in horn ovens).
For those who have read the reviews of the VashTechnik portal concerning gas flowing water heaters, self-repair of gas stoves will seem like child's play! You cannot do it yourself, but you can clean the device. The master will have to clean candles, combustion sensors, burners, and sometimes nozzles. There are many interesting things inside the gas stove. Those who master the correct cleaning of equipment should understand what we see inside. Under the gas stove table:
If the charge is formed by an electronic circuit, you will find a simple thyristor, diode, capacitor, fuses inside. The circuit works, fed by the charge of the capacitor, followed by a surge of energy from the spark gap of the candle. Repair of electric ignition of a gas stove applies to the listed elements. The malfunction is easy to spot. Burnt parts are black or similar.
Gas is endowed with two significant characteristics:
The calorific value is determined by the composition. The higher the methane content, the lower the parameter. The calorific value of natural gas is predetermined by the field of extraction of the natural resource.
The pressure depends on the type of gas. The liquid needs higher. The main line has a typical value of 13 mbar. This parameter ensures the correct operation of solenoid valves, injectors, burners.
If the pressure is too high, the gas does not burn out completely, soot and orange flames will appear. The system may not work correctly. I have come across instructions recommending the use of a reducer in order to obtain a 13 mbar balloon. There are probably limitations. It is not for nothing that it is recommended to put two cylinders in parallel. Please note that the main gas is actually liquid, supplied through a reducer. It is pumped from cisterns into containers from which houses are supplied. Find out the wiring diagram of the house at the place of residence.There is natural gas, distributed centrally, with lower cost, pressure, and heating value. The pressure is assumed to be 13 mbar. It is necessary to consider the aspect when installing and repairing a gas stove.
The reason to call professionals for installation and configuration is that the wizards know the parameters. Of course, the person with the certificate is also aware of the local conditions. Now imagine what happens if you unknowingly connect the equipment incorrectly! This is gas, no jokes. This is especially true for the hinterland, where neighboring houses may have different connections. It is recommended to buy a set of replacement injectors for a different gas pressure. They described the process of self-boring jets, they mentioned: the law prohibits reworking. The work is unsafe. Before buying, ask the gas service for the parameters, ask the store if the equipment is suitable. It’s not too late to do some inquiries during the next cleaning. Not the fact that everything was done correctly.
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How to adjust the jets. The size of the center hole changes. Less pressure, the hole is taken more. Verticality and alignment must be maintained, otherwise the gas will be vented to the side, which will lead to an accident. It is pertinent to recall that in old Soviet gas stoves, the jets are hidden in the depths. The design of the burners is unusual. Between the nozzle and the splitter is a tube with a pair of ears attached to the frame. There is one ram for every two burners. In pairs, the pipes are attached with ears inside the case. A bowl with a nozzle is placed at the lower end, a divider is inserted into the upper end. The gas stove is powered by a jet stream. Propane-butane is heavier than air.
The peculiarity is that opposite the nozzle there is a tube with a radial cut. Needed to unscrew the hex nozzle without using a long socket wrench. In modern gas stoves, the jet is under the flame. A different arrangement improves traction, discourages ordinary people from climbing inside the stove. Do-it-yourself gas stove repair is a dangerous business.
Electric stoves today and for summer residents look more appropriate option.
In this article, I will tell you about everything that you can do with your own hands when your electric stove or hob is broken.
First, let's define what you can do yourself and what not. Plates are electromechanical and electronic. In this article, and indeed on the site, I will not consider electronic stoves and hobs, since the field of electronics ... Let's just say that electricity is just a small piece of electronics in the modern world. I can also say so. To understand electricity, to a greater extent, it is enough to know Ohm's law and understand it. In electronics, even if I now begin to list in simple words, everything will drag on for a very long time. So, regarding the electronic hobs, I will briefly touch on them, but I will not disassemble the repair directly. Before you start reading further, if you are going to disassemble the stove, be sure to read the electrical safety instructions. When you read the instructions just click on the "back" button and you will come back here.
Actually, there are literally several faults and I will divide them into points:
Well, now, let's go in order and consider each point in detail.
To do this, you need a multimeter. The voltage will need to be checked in the outlet (first of all), in the terminal block of the stove, on the burner mode switches, on the heating elements themselves. How to measure voltage with a multimeter is written here.
So, we disassemble the socket for the electric stove and measure the voltage. If it is within 220-240 volts, then everything is in order, but do not rush to close the outlet. Carefully insert the plug into the socket, turn on the hob and check the voltage again. If it suddenly disappeared, then you have a problem on the supply line and not in the stove.If you are using an outlet like the RSH, as in the photo, then turn off the power, make sure it is not there, and do two manipulations.
It has been very difficult to find a good socket for an electric stove lately. If the socket is behind the stove, I recommend replacing it with U739M clamps. But if you just need an outlet, then you need to pay close attention to the correct connection of wires to it. In the photo you can see how the contact was deformed. This is due to the fact that the wire was simply inserted into the terminal and tightened. It seems that you tightened it tightly, but in fact, the wire is almost not tightened due to the deformation of the contact. Therefore, in low-quality sockets, a ring must be made from the wire and only then tightened. The tightening in this case, at least, will be reliable.
In the terminal block, a different burner is connected to each phase contact. Thus, if one or two burners do not work for you (especially if you installed a new stove yourself), then there is a high probability that you forgot about the jumpers or forgot to tighten them. It may be that you tightened the jumpers loosely. And weak contact causes heating. If you are interested, you can find out what the current does to the wires. If the stove does not work completely, then there is hardly a problem in the terminal block, most likely a problem in the power supply.
Now you need to turn on the power to the plate and check the voltage at the terminal block. You need to check by touching the screws themselves, not the wires. Moreover, check each screw. So you will understand if there is voltage at the terminal itself if the wire is not clamped correctly. That is, zero and first screw, zero and second screw, etc. If everything is in order and there is tension, then you will have to disassemble the stove.
After disassembling the plate, look at the connections on the back of the terminal block.
Conclusion on checking the voltage: if the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the jumpers, there is no point in checking the voltage in the outlet. If the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the voltage in both the outlet and the terminal block (if there is voltage in the outlet), since there is a possibility that there is no contact in the plug or some problems in the wire. If any one burner does not work, then go ahead.
If you have not yet read the article that was mentioned just above and which tells what current does to the wires, then read it.The main unpleasant property of weak contact is that when it heats up, the contact can disappear and then reappear. Therefore, if something works for you, then it does not, then you need to look for a weak contact. Unfortunately, this will have to be done under voltage, consistently going through the circuit, so be careful and attentive.
To begin with, there are three types of switches. They are all mechanical, but differ in the way they work.
step power control
smooth power control
smooth power control with the ability to turn on an additional area
Accordingly, each switch uses its own cooking zones. The step switch uses a hotplate with several heating elements. You can find everything about such a burner here. The temperature on the hotplates with these switches is adjustable in steps and has fixed positions.
For the switch with continuously adjustable power, burners with one spiral are used. Therefore, such a burner, if it burns out, then once and for all. Unlike burners with several spirals (they were discussed in the previous paragraph), which continue to work partially, but do not give out maximum power. You can regulate the temperature on such burners smoothly within a very wide range, almost like on gas stoves.
For a continuously adjustable switch and an additional area, burners with one spiral are also used, but the burners have two areas. Consequently, a malfunction can manifest itself in two ways: one area does not work, or both areas do not work. If only one area has stopped working, then it is more likely that the reason is either in the switch or in the hotplate, if both areas stopped working at once, then most likely the power to the hotplate or the problem is in the switch.
What's on this point? Since you will be working with dangerous voltages, you need to be very careful. Turn on the switch and check the voltage on the hotplate. If there is voltage, but the burner does not work, this can indicate two malfunctions - the burner burned out or the burner thermal fuse (if any) is faulty. If there is no voltage, but it comes to the terminal block of the plate, then the problem is purely in the switch.
Basically, there is only one step switch malfunction. Poor contact leads to heating of the contact plates and either burns out the contact or deforms the switch guides. In this case, only a close inspection of the switch will help determine the malfunction. If you see darkened terminals, then the switch will have to be changed, since it cannot be repaired at home. You can only postpone his death for several days / months.
I wouldn't repair the continuously variable switches either. There are a little more malfunctions, but they all boil down to the fact that there is a breakdown of the bimetallic element. The principle of operation of these switches is that a current flows through the bimetallic plate, causing the plate to heat up, which in turn leads to reversible deformation of the plate. As soon as the deformation reaches a critical point, the switch changes the position of the contacts, closing or opening the contact plates of the power supply of the burner. If you repair such a switch, then setting up the correct activation and deactivation of it is quite problematic. In this case, the hotplate will either not reach full power or will not turn off completely.
Before changing the modulating switch with additional area, it makes sense to disassemble it first. There are two types of malfunction: the additional area does not turn on and does not turn off. In the first case, you need to look at what prevents you from turning it on, in the second case there is such a moment as welding the contacts.In this case, the contacts are opened, cleaned with a sandpaper or file until the contact pads are even, and this may solve the problem for a long time, or it may not. It all depends on the quality of the material of working contacts.
The task of the timer in the stove is to ensure that you have the possibility of automatic cooking. That is, you can set the on and off times, select the cooking mode, place the dish and the stove will turn on and off by the appointed time. Most often, the timer controls only the oven, but there are models in which one of the burners is also connected via a timer. The oven will not work until the timer has been set. It is not necessary to set the exact time, it is much more important to simply set it. The correct time does not affect the workflow in any way, it is rather intended for your convenience, so that you can correctly navigate the time by which you need to prepare your dish (for example, in the morning or reheat food for dinner).
Actually, if the timer is faulty, either only the oven or another hotplate will not work for you, if it is connected via a timer.
In part, I considered the repair of EKCH burners, where all malfunctions of burners with several spirals are written. The troubleshooting methods are suitable for all cooking zones. Here I will dwell in a little more detail on modern burners.
Therefore, it is possible to designate malfunctions:
If power comes to the burner (to the yellow and blue contacts), but the burner does not work, then two reasons can be distinguished: the contacts of the temperature sensor do not close or the spirals are burned out. If there is no thermal sensor, then the most likely cause is the combustion of the spirals. But everything must be looked at in place.
Let's summarize and briefly go through troubleshooting.
We determine the presence of voltage starting from the outlet, if the stove does not work completely and then in series: terminal block, switch, thermal fuse (if any), burner.
Having found a faulty area, we try to repair it. If it cannot be repaired, we will change it.
When replacing a burner, remember that EKCH burners can be used in circuits where regulators with smooth switching are installed, but not vice versa.
We do not forget that we are working with dangerous voltage, therefore, we observe safety precautions.
In the article, I tried to consider as much as possible all possible malfunctions of mechanically controlled electric stoves. Some of the faults are suitable for electronically controlled cookers. In principle, mechanically controlled plates are easily repaired at home, but it is better to entrust electronic plates to specialized workshops.
Repair of hobs with touch controls is discussed in this article. Although this is a separate article, it is a kind of supplement. If you have a purely mechanical control, then you can read the article on touch control panels only for self-development.
Video (click to play).
If you've read it, well done! Well, I say goodbye to you.
