DIY wall clock mechanism repair

How to repair a wall clock and replace the clock mechanism with your own hands, see my master class with a photo step by step.

I recently talked about how to replace the battery in an electronic wristwatch. Now I would like to talk about wall.

Now, you probably can't find a house that doesn't have a watch made in China or India. Wall Clock - this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or rushes and lags behind, or, which is typical of smooth-running mechanisms, literally starts to “eat up” the batteries.

It is a pity to throw out such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the mechanism by replacing it from another (new, but barbarously broken) clock.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage lies in the fact that if the hands from the “native” watch do not fit in diameter, you can safely install the hands from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.

We carefully fold the unscrewed bolts side by side so as not to accidentally lose.

Remove the mounting plate along with the glass and carefully set it aside.

Carefully remove the hands in order: second, minute, hour.

Be very careful not to bend the arrows.

Fastening mechanisms are, as a rule, of two types. Either with a nut, as in the photo, or with latches.

We move the nut from the “dead center” with any suitable tool: pliers, round-nose pliers, or even side cutters, as in the photo. Then we calmly unscrew it with our hand.

I think everything is clear without words.

We extract the working mechanism from the broken clock in the same way. But in the photo, the mechanism is fastened with latches. It's even easier here.

Using a straight screwdriver, remove the mechanism from the latches. We also keep the hands, because there is a discrepancy between the diameters and we install the mechanism with its hands in the watches being repaired.

Since we removed the mechanism with a nut fastener, and put it in its place without one, the simplest solution would be superglue.

Apply a couple of drops in the places where the mechanism fits and glue the working mechanism to the body.

Using a suitable tool, I recommend squeezing the base of the arrows lightly so that they grip the axle more tightly.

We put in place the hands in the sequence: hour, minute, second.

To avoid an error in the course, we set everything exactly at 12-00.

Before installing the glass, be sure to wipe its back surface, and then, holding by the edges, put it in place.

Then we put the glass retainer in place. Gently turn the watch over and screw the bolts into place.

After the watch is assembled, we check with the adjusting wheel whether the hands intersect with each other. DIY wall clock repair is finished.

If everything is in order, we return the watch to its rightful place.

Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan J.

This is purely the experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for the amateur. A professional is dear to the school. They will teach everything there.

Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky.In general, there are books on the topic of clock repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everyone will do it for you in any Internet cafe. You must have a book. It can get expensive, but it's worth it. This book is a guide for the layperson who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like that - and here it was.

Let's make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned.

Screwdrivers. Start simple.

Chinese. I use it. I sharpen it. As for Chinese screwdrivers - look where on the streets watch batteries are changed and batteries and watch straps are sold. Or in the most ordinary households. A set of screwdrivers for small jobs.

You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when trying to unscrew something, put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of a screwdriver and quickly into wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and sharpen it along Pinkin.

More cool - in the machine on a diamond disc. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Stones are well suited for finishing.

Tweezers (for starters - medical eye tweezers will do).

An alternative is to get acquainted with a radio bazaar (if Moscow - it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer gadgets) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Tweezers shapes - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watch shops. They would rather be beaten than sold at a normal price. They do not want to breed competitors. And if they do, the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't fit into any gate.

There is also a radio bazaar - Galosha gasoline. Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.

You take sticks (like Chinese) - finger length - to taste. You stick fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.

The very tip with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) is splashed on a hard anvil. You get a little spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace butter dosing. As anvils, I use either a roller made of a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to the flea market or to friends in the workshop.

In approximately the same way - they will come in handy for a start - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are frightened and there are no good tweezers - to expose the details (gears in stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.

Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. They are usually bought on occasion at a flea market.

Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.

Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off dust. The tip must be rubber.

Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don't beat you, although they usually look like rams and pretend that they don't understand what you are talking about at all and are trying to get you off as quickly as possible). Or maybe at a radio store - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will go for a start.

It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.

To open the cases - a large, broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - an old caliper. You just need to correct the edges of the jaws - so that they are more rectangular.

Scalpel - opening of enclosures.

Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not even to start. Or photographic goods (classic - where telescopes and binoculars are sold) or a radio bazaar. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One is 1.5 times, one is the strongest one sold - it seems up to 2.5 times.They can be sold with an elastic band - you will have to redo them to fit a hard bezel. You can go and talk to the optics workshop - glasses. Maybe they will offer something like pince-nez. Regarding ordinary magnifiers - to my taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting off the baby's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but it was necessary to cut them off.

Binocular - microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest is MBS-1. It is with a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. It should cost within $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point that you rip the scrap out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time. MBS-10 or OGMZ is steeper - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But all the same, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit under the MBS-10 - it must be shortened. Although on the Site of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of MBS-10, there is a link that they sell lenses for MBS-10 with a distance to the object - about 19 cm.This can be a good solution if we got MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 is the same. Over time, the lens can be altered by yourself. You take what is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there is an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).

All that is further from the instrument - only after evisceration for 4-5 hours.

Where to get a watch - make yourself a fashion to be at a flea market - everything floats there. Often they simply sell mechanisms there. For instance:

When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio bazaar, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic cleaners. But here is also the question - is it necessary. 50 years before that they did not use them - they took a bath and washed the parts with a brush in gasoline. You can do it, but the weight is not bad. Should cost in the range of $ 50-80. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into an ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Does not flash. Washes like a beast, but all the same, sometimes you have to rip something off with a toothpick. At the bazaar, they say that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is the same as in the figure - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (there may be moisture inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a background of uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not work - it is highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong vinegar smell.

Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - this is the very thing. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for the current dismantling works. I like glass more - they are heavier, fidget less on the table.

Then, for convenience, in the offices that make business cards, you can sometimes roll up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.

Silica gel. Small bags that are put into new fashionable shoes, equipment, computer components. Absorbs water. It must be dried either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven. Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released. After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time so that they do not rust.

Radio bazaar. Snap-on pouches - they sell in the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Place watches and small items. They are usually packed with small pieces that are sold in the bazaar.

To begin with, the wristwatch can be laid down on the grinder mesh during disassembly. Then you yourself will determine what you need and how it is more convenient for you. The stand can be machined out of brass. Should be heavy enough.

Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 V. If not, by 220 V. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it gets warm.

About a new instrument. It is not always worth the money. Think how to get out with what you have. It is needed if you make a living with this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not first of all. Calculate the costs like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are on the tool. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.

Now the steepness has gone. Machine.

Option 2. High-speed car. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way. But as for me - this is not very correct. If sharpen then sharpen.

Considering the above - if you do not sharpen the axes how to fry pies - then for a non-professional watchmaker-turner, it would be more expedient to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is axle turning (or even less), 80% is the turning of screws and body parts, various secondary milling work.

Examples I would name the following:

Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a milling corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a "milling cutter".

- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, including a milling attachment or FF-230 router. Search on There they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do it.

Regarding the old MD-65. Axes 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any additional clarifications are superfluous.

Now for the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well kva. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive also needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers Linux will do. So, the fun begins. Software often costs more than hardware. It's the same story with machine tools. We need fixtures and additional tools. I think that an approximate set of additional accessories for the machine will cost no less than the machine costs. We are now talking about turning + milling. I ended up with MD-65 with a milling angle plate - a milling cutter is clamped in the machine chuck, and the support is turned over like a milling table, only a vertical one + milling vise. The arrows on it are milled. Cut the slots in the screws too.

- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school boxes.

For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not break.

- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one is native to MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set is Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).

This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.

- indicators. 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various attachments are needed for them. Often you have to do the fasteners yourself.

- center detectors - 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.

- binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.

- 4-jaw chuck. With split jaw release.

- sharpener - sharpen the cutters roughly

- diamond wheels - sharpen cutters precisely

- rotary vise (horizontal rotary system) - drill holes in precisely specified places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It is hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws are jumping.

- dividing head. Or with discs or vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.

- I'm not talking about cutters. And end and for gears. The thickness of the disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - is the thickness of the "Neva" blade.

- the measuring tool is for rough work

- and for precise ones - only optics

- then you need to look at what is needed already for the work being performed. You will have to do a lot yourself. To invent a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, it takes more time to make a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.

Foil trimming - making a "disk" arrow. Materials at hand.

Now the conversation is where and how to organize all this. It should be dry. Dust free. Not on the head of the family - the family should know that it is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entrance there. And there is nothing to howl about the noise from the workshop. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks with gasoline).

One type I saw a German machine - the type of our school. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumble the onion with the sausage. All the same, there will be no big turning works at home - everything is some kind of small piece.

If the conversation is about a large workshop or a more serious occupation in the restoration business for the soul, then in addition to the small machine, you need to look towards the larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and the manufacture of devices. It is clear that all this also needs a trailer of devices and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.

If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they help out a lot. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and shims for lathe cutters.

As a conclusion, let's put it this way - this process is endless. In one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe, there was a good idea, completely applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no need to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in their eyes what we have begun. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants die of all this rubbish and faster. They can also be thrown into the trash. They need a place for a geranium! We need to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently to all these numerous relatives and posterity, it is necessary to explain that all this is expensive and on this in distant times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is exactly the right time to prepare for yourself a range of activities for a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, retirement. Good luck.

This watch has a smooth running quartz movement (there is an abbreviation MPH 🙂), i.e. the second hand does not click loudly every second, but rather quietly rustles continuously. From the included salt battery, the clock quite accurately departed for 2 months. Well, I replaced it with an alkaline one and the clock got up in a month. Replaced again, again passed about a month. After the 3rd battery change, it became clear that something was wrong. Having checked the "dead" batteries, I realized that they are still alive. After consulting the nearest blogosphere, I found out that such mechanisms are not repaired and are easier to throw out. I scored until one day in Ikea I saw their cheapest model of watch and took it in my hands to see what kind of mechanism was there.
Here they are - the simplest plastic case and plastic glass, paper dial

Suddenly, the very same mechanism was installed in them, and on the sticker there was a mysterious inscription “Made in Belarus” = D

The price of the unit turned out to be something in the region of 250 rubles, I grabbed them gladly and rushed home to dissect. Swapped mechanisms. It is not difficult - the arrows are carefully removed from the stem, after which it is necessary to squeeze the latches a little and remove the mechanism from the case, assemble in the reverse order. The Ikeevsky version is disassembled in general in 1 minute, there is not even a single bolt there.

So, I assembled, put used batteries in both copies. Surprisingly, both went.I thought that when removing the arrows, he could fix something inside the old mechanism. But after about a month of working on a second-hand battery, the electricity zhor was drawn again.

The “repaired” Belarusian watch was running normally, the battery was not consumed earlier than it should have been. But I wouldn’t be me, if that’s where it all ended happily. Suddenly the watch refused to function in its natural upright position. Only horizontally! In this case, the mechanism revolves, but something has moved away somewhere. I both shook and knocked them, no, they do not go. Then I decided on an autopsy.

The autopsy was unsuccessful. The gears all got enough sleep and I spent the next half hour installing them back. At the same time, I did not notice any defects by eye. The engine was running, everything was turning. And in the assembled state, the watch still did not go.

Then for the 3rd time I went to the store for a watch and bought it. I unpacked it at home, there was another mechanism inside! I'm depressed. On the other hand, maybe there really were a lot of defects according to the previous model. Reassembled, hung up, everything works. The move is accurate.

And only then I suddenly googled. hand.zhpg

Much has come to light. To begin with, all mechanisms are universal, i.e. have the same size, but differ in the length of the stem on which the arrows are installed. This was done to allow the use of dials of different thicknesses, and it can also be provided for fastening to the dial with a nut for the stem. I even recognized one of the most common models of Chinese movements - this is JL 6262. Chinese shops during the crisis sell it for about 300 rubles apiece, that is. in pre-crisis times, the price was quite affordable. Here, I did not find anything except wholesale in boxes. One article advertised the GrandTime sweep mechanism in comparison with this JL 6262. For it, the scrap rate is stated as ≤0.05%, while for JL it is ≥4%, and the accuracy is 1-2 seconds per day. I wonder what percentage of the marriage I got. For working mechanisms, the operating time from an alkaline battery should be approximately 8-11 months and the service life of the mechanism should be approximately 6 years. Somehow not very much. I think many people still have Soviet clocks with discrete movements at home, which have been clinking for 30 years.

Thinking about the use of carcasses from Ikeev watches, I, without any special illusions, ordered a mechanism from the Chinese for a trial that cost less than $ 1 (this is already with delivery), but with a longer stem under the nut (you can hit a hand-made one). And not so long ago, this mechanism reached me.

The quality of the plastic is normal. For such a price, I generally expected some kind of horror. Suggest to use alkaline batteries

Stem thread

Plugged a truly Chinese mechanism into the IKEE watch

The first surprise - the mechanism was powered by an old battery, which I was about to throw away. But here is a slightly longer stem not completely retracted under the glass. When lightly pressed on the glass from the outside, the second hand stalled. I got out of the position not completely inserting the glass into the latches. And so it keeps pretty strong. So if you are going to change the mechanism, check if the length is enough for you.
The second surprise - the accuracy of this movement turned out to be higher than that of my Casio wristwatches!

What does not bother anyone in the house is the clock, and all because they are on the wall. And there is always some benefit from them, serviceable ones show the time, malfunctioning ones give the interior comfort. Hang yourself and hang. Until the owners decide to change their place of residence. And then those of them who have a habit of stopping sometimes are thrown away. For housewarming, new ones are presented, but their quality is the same as that of the old ones. Therefore, I decided not to throw out my own.

This is a gift from the last housewarming, they are 30 years old. They show the time exactly, but they have one fad - they only work with a fresh battery (you need to change every four to five months, with two, even used ones, included in parallel, it takes much more than a year.

The assembly is of high quality, for example, the motor rotor (drive gear) has an individual mount on the board

I disassemble, clean everything, wipe it with alcohol, solder the contacts and even solder the screws to the board that secure the installation components on the other side. All in the hope that they will work with one, moreover, not the strongest battery.

I collected it, tried it - the miracle did not happen. Put two - go. I'll leave it that way, it didn't work out better.

And this is the mechanism of modern watches. China. They go on the condition that they need to be shaken every few hours.

I disassemble, clean, mine. But this is not enough here. It is necessary to understand the reason for the unstable operation of the mechanism. Soon the fairy tale has its effect, and in real time, for several days, I puffed my eyes at the device of this mechanics and fumbled on the Internet.

In the virtual space, I found a clue as to the cause of the malfunction, but a solution was offered there that was almost delusional. I had to come up with my own. And so in the photo, a metal scribe indicates a recess in the plastic, into which the upper axis of the engine rotor (drive gear) should be inserted. It is made a little deeper than necessary and, accordingly, the rotor dangles there, which leads to a stop of the clock at a certain moment.

I quite accurately determined the diameter of this recess, picked up the necessary drill (maybe even a slightly smaller diameter) and drilled it through. Then he took a piece of fishing line of a slightly larger diameter and, with the help of a small skin, grinded off the diameter of the fishing line just enough so that it entered the hole with some effort.

From the inside, I inserted a segment into the hole so that there was a very small depression for installing the rotor axis. I assembled the clock mechanism, installed the battery. The clock did not run, as the line rested against the rotor axis. Then, with small pliers, turning this improvised stopper (fishing line) from side to side, he pulled it out. Exactly so that the rotor axis is free and the clock runs. The end of the stopper was shortened with pliers almost flush

The clock has taken its place in the hallway and has been running without a single stop for the fifth month. By the way, such a clock from the network can be powered according to the following scheme. Babay mastered the novelty in watch repair technology.

CHAPTER VII WALL CLOCK CONSTRUCTION AND REPAIR

The details of the wall clock mechanism are located between two brass plates of various configurations - rectangular, square, round. The plates are fastened together by four posts, on the threads of which nuts are screwed, or holes are drilled in the projections of the posts, into which the tapered pins are tightly inserted.

In most wall clocks, a pendulum is used as an oscillatory system, which is suspended on steel suspension springs fastened with brass plates (Fig. 188) of various shapes.

Rice. 188. Hangers of the pendulum wall clock:
1 - single; 2 - double; 3 - for half-second pendulums; 4 - for an English table clock with a half-second pendulum

Single suspensions are rarely used, since with a single spring the pendulum deviates from the swing plane during oscillation. With double springs, this is excluded, provided that the lengths of both springs are the same and they do not have flat bends. The thickness of the steel springs is selected depending on the weight of the pendulum lens. Typically, the thickness of the steel spring should be between 0.05 and 0.2 mm (for various designs), and the width and length between 2 and 10 mm. The suspension of the pendulum has holes with a diameter of 1 to 2 mm, where the

pin. The pendulum hook is put on the lower pin, and the upper suspension pin is fixed in a special bracket (Fig. 189).

The pendulum of a clock consists of a light but rigid rod and a heavier (in comparison with the rod) load - a lens. The weight of the pendulum when adjusting the clock rate can be moved up and down with a nut on the pendulum rod (Fig. 190).

The oscillation period of the pendulum depends on its length.The longer the pendulum, the slower it oscillates, and, conversely, the shorter the pendulum (i.e., the higher the load is lifted), the faster the oscillation.

When the temperature rises, the clock usually lags behind, and when the temperature falls, it hurries due to the fact that the pendulum's rod, like all bodies, is deformed under the influence of temperature. To ensure that temperature changes do not affect the accuracy of the clock readings, compensation pendulums are used. In this case, pendulums are made of materials with a low coefficient of thermal expansion, for example, wood (spruce or pine), since it expands with an increase in temperature two to three times less than metal. So that moisture does not penetrate the pores of the tree, the rod is soaked through with oil varnish.

In another case, the rod is made from inhomogeneous materials, since different metals under the influence of temperature expand to different degrees. For example, a pendulum rod can consist of several steel and brass rods that abut against the transverse bar of the pendulum and deform along its length. As a result, the length of the pendulum remains stable and the accuracy of the watch is almost unaffected.

While at rest, the pendulum remains upright. When the pendulum is brought out of rest, it returns to the equilibrium position due to the force of gravity and the elasticity of the suspension. However, when the pendulum moves by inertia, it will pass the equilibrium position and deflect in the opposite direction by almost the same distance that it was deflected initially.

In order to prevent the oscillations of the pendulum from damping, the pendulum rod enters the section of the fork mounted on the axis of the armature, on which the input and output pallets are fixed, connected in their work with the travel wheel. Such a move is called non-free with friction at rest (Fig. 191).

The inlet and outlet plaque rest planes have a cylindrical shape; chamfered pallet planes are called pulse planes. The points of the beginning and end of the rest surface, connected to the center of the swing of the pendulum, form the angle of rest, and the points of the beginning and end of the impulse - the angle of the impulse.

The running wheel, under the influence of a wound spring or a raised weight, at regular intervals supports the oscillations of the pendulum, imparting impulses to the armature pallets. When the pendulum begins to deviate from one extreme position to another, it turns the fork, which in turn turns the armature. At this time, the travel wheel tooth slides over the resting surface of the input pallet; then the tooth, hitting the plane of the pulse of the input pallet, pushes the armature, and thus the fork at the moment when the pendulum has not yet reached the equilibrium position. The right side of the groove of the fork hits the rod, throwing the pendulum in the opposite direction. At the same time, the travel wheel tooth passes the pulse plane of the input pallet, and the leading tooth of the travel wheel falls on the resting surface of the output pallet. As the pendulum continues on its way, the resting surface of the pallet slides over the tooth of the travel wheel. Wheel system

at this time remains motionless. It starts to move when the tooth, falling on the plane of the pulse of the pallet and sliding along its surface, imparts an impulse to the armature.

Rice. 191. Non-free stroke with friction at rest and its consistent work:
1 - running wheel; 2 - anchor; 3 - input pallet; 4 - output pallet; 5 - steel plates securing the pallets; 6 - space for the anchor axis

The pendulum, having reached its extreme position, begins to return back, and the whole process is repeated.

The running wheel has a different number of teeth (24,30,36, 42, etc.). The armature covers from 4.5 to 11.5 teeth of the travel wheel. The pallet thickness is slightly less than half a tooth pitch. The tooth pitch of a wheel is made up of the tooth width and the cavity width.

In some watches, a movement is used, which is a solid steel polished anchor (Fig. 192). This is a type of descent with a retreat, i.e.when the watch is running, the running wheel moves back a little under the influence of the anchor's resting planes. Finally, there is a move with a hook anchor (Fig. 193), the principle of operation of which is similar to descent and retreat.

The wall clock without a fight of domestic production with a seven-day spring-loaded plant has a simple design: a transmission with a pinion

engagement and move with a hook anchor (Fig. 194). The disadvantage of this watch is the single suspension spring. The suspension spring in this watch fits very tightly into the bracket cut.

Rice. 194. Pendulum clock of domestic production without striking:
1 - drum wheel; 2 - mainspring, 3 - winding shaft; 4 - additional wheel; 5 - bill wheel; 6 - minus tribe; 7 - nut for fastening the minute hand; 8 - central wheel; 9 - hour wheel; 10 - running wheel; And - anchor; 12 - minute hand; 13 - hour hand; 14 - anchor bridge; 15 - suspension spring; 16 - intermediate wheel; 17 - safety pins; 18 - pendulum rod; 19 - winding shaft bridge; 20 - fork; 21 - pendulum hook

Today we will talk about the malfunctions of the Chinese-made quartz wall clock (although now the market is almost completely filled with Chinese goods). For me, such a clock worked for about a year and began to stop, although the micromotor itself worked without interruption. This watch.

Let's start repairing. To do this, turn the watch over and see on the back wall four screws for fastening the decorative plastic holders of the dial glass. We unscrew them and remove the glass.

Next, carefully remove the second hand, then the minute and then the hour.

Under them you can see the nut fastening the clock mechanism to the watch case. We unscrew it and remove the clockwork.

Armed with thin screwdrivers, we pry the latches on the mechanism case and remove the cover. Plastic gears are visible underneath.

Having remembered or even better by sketching the relative position of the gears, carefully remove them and examine the gears with a magnifying glass, or rather the condition of the teeth. It may turn out upon inspection that one or more of the gear teeth are worn out. In this case, it is necessary to replace the gear. You can take it from old other unusable watches. In another case, fine dust particles have fallen on the teeth and therefore, when the gears mesh, they become seized when rotating. In my case, everything was so. To do this, use a small watercolor brush and ethyl alcohol to wash the gears. We dry well and, in the reverse order, slowly assemble the clockwork of the wall clock. We collect the clock and insert the battery to start the clock. We observe the accuracy of the clock through time.

There is another "disease" in Chinese watches - the inaccuracy of the course. It is corrected by replacing the quartz resonator on the board with a clock microcircuit. In this way, more than one watch was cured, right down to the wristwatch. Read also on the blog articles on repairing the control panel of household appliances, repairing the washing machine yourself. If your shaver is broken, then an article on repairing an electric shaver will not be superfluous. In your kitchen, I think there are many different household appliances, so it will not be superfluous to get acquainted with the repair of a blender and self-repair of the hood. Bye!

The description of the repair is a bit primitive, for people who have never taken a hammer in their hands.
Here in my watch, the next malfunction. The minute hand ticks as it should be, for the cultural clock in a London house, but only for the descent, but when the minute hand begins to rise from 6 to 12, at the most important moment at about 9 o'clock, it suddenly stops and begins to stamp on the spot, twitching. Disassembled, everything is clean, everything is good, gears straight from the factory, not a speck of dust. Judging by the fact that the arrow still runs down, it means that the electronics are working properly.What could be? I sin either on an inductive coil (short-circuited turns will lead to a decrease in the magnetic field strength and it will not be enough to raise the arrow) or on a magnet, which "bathes" in impulses from the inductive coil (demagnetization over time). So what do you do? How to check? (Yes, I changed the battery first, and more than once, so this element is beyond suspicion)

In principle, the creation of a blog was not supposed to lay out the repair of any equipment to the smallest detail. Who will be interested in more details, you can write in a personal. Well, I can tell you one thing that short-circuited turns are excluded, since in coils with a current flow of very small values ​​it will not lead to rapid aging of the insulation and its destruction. Unless, of course, the watch is operated in an aggressive environment. But with a magnet, your reasoning is in the right direction. I would advise you to put another one from a similar watch.

Hi Andrew,
maybe look at my quartz wall clock - the second hand on each circle stops 3 times at different digits, like a top trembles, then starts to walk.

Good day! Try changing the battery first

Yes, I tried right away, before I wrote

Then you can't do without an autopsy. Start the check by checking whether the second hand clings to the watch glass. Sometimes this happens .. If everything goes well, then the mechanism itself will have to be disassembled and carefully inspected.

Let's say you have a watch in your hands. It could be the watch of your grandfather, friend, acquaintance, or even your own watch that you forgot a long time ago. They once stopped and stopped showing the time. In search of the necessary tools, you turned the apartment upside down and, with the help of available tools, managed to open them.

But is it worth the rush? Perhaps this watch can still be repaired.

If you are a beginner and have never dealt with the repair of a watch movement before, then you should familiarize yourself with a few rules that any watchmaker adheres to.

1. The clockwork is the most complex "organism" in which all its elements work as a single whole. Therefore, watch repair must be careful and careful. You must understand how they work, because some parts of the watch mechanism are so small that it will not be difficult to damage them.

2. Remember that proper specialized tools are required to gently remove the machine components. Otherwise, your repair will lead to an inversely proportional result.

It is also worth noting that even if in some miraculous way these tools are at your fingertips, but you do not have the slightest idea about the mechanism of the watch, they will not help you. If you are not confident in your abilities and do not have sufficient experience, it is better to give your watch to the workshop. They will be properly repaired by professionals in their field.

3. Watch mechanisms from the times of the Soviet Union are not inferior to their more eminent and expensive counterparts from Switzerland in terms of the complexity of repair.

4. Like most other movements, the watch needs lubrication. They won't work without it. Remember that by the word lubricant we mean a specialized substance designed specifically for watch movements, and not petroleum jelly or, even better, sunflower oil. The last two options are not even suitable as a temporary solution to the problem. The lubricant should be applied to the parts of the mechanism that require it, with exact observance of the quantitative proportions of the substance. If you think that the watchmaker, when carrying out repairs, abundantly waters the entire mechanism from a huge oiler, then you are greatly mistaken.

5. If for some reason you still do not want to give your watch to a professional workshop and cannot get rid of the desire to carry out the appropriate repairs yourself by purchasing specialized tools, you should know that a watch set for 600 rubles, which can be bought on most Internet stores won't be enough. This is a waste of money. A high-quality watch tool is expensive, and purchasing it for a one-time repair is not the most rational act.

6.Please read the relevant literature before starting work. For a beginner, we recommend the book "Construction and assembly technology of mechanical watches" by S.М. Tagirova. It is distinguished by the clarity and utmost brevity of the material presented in it. After reading it, most of your questions will be answered. Agree, there is nothing worse than a beginner who does not even understand the basics of the business that he decided to take on, and even showered you with constant questions: "what, but how?".

7. Remember - do not touch the components of the clockwork with your hands. For these purposes, you must use tweezers, gloves, fingertips or, at worst, a toothpick.

8. Are you going to make watch repair your hobby? Be prepared for high financial costs.

Entry-level watch tools, designed primarily for assembling watches, cost about ten thousand rubles, for minimal repairs - from one hundred thousand. In any case, you won't be able to buy everything at once. Assembling a complete set of tools can take a lifetime. The same rule applies to repair training.

Patience is an essential character trait of any watchmaker. Without him, in this case, nowhere. First of all, you should honestly answer to yourself one simple question: "Do you need all this?"

Let's assume that you have nevertheless acquired the necessary tools and equipped your workspace. Where to begin? Do not know? We will give you a hint.

Determine the breakdown or malfunction of the clock mechanism, which led to its malfunctioning or stopping. In 80% of cases, this is dirt and dried grease on the parts of the mechanism. This kind of malfunction of the mechanism can be determined by eye. Their main features are black tribes and dried oilers. The solution to this problem is to disassemble the clockwork, clean all its parts from dirt and lubricate.

Remember the patience we described above? Well, it is at such moments that you need it. Haste is your greatest enemy.

The most important part of this craft that you will need to learn is the disassembly and assembly of the watch mechanism. An old, irreparable watch is suitable for training - this is the best option. You are not immune from mistakes, like any other person, and with such training they cannot be avoided. We consider the Slava alarm clock to be the most optimal option for learning. Its movement is similar to most mechanical wristwatches, and the details are not so small.

Let's look at it using the example of the above-mentioned alarm clock.

The first is to remove the back cover. Unscrew the factory keys, remove the buttons for shifting the hour hands, and then unscrew the fastening screws. In wristwatches, the back cover of the watch can be attached to their case, either with screws or with the help of special latches.

The second is to remove the mechanism. Look carefully and study the method by which the fastener was carried out. Unscrew the fixing screws. If you have a wristwatch in your hands, before removing the mechanism, take out the winding shaft, putting it in the eyeliner mode, and slightly press down on the suppressor, then take it out. At the end of the procedure for removing the mechanism, the winding shaft must be reinstalled.

The third is to remove the hands and dial. The first ones are removed quite easily - you just need to pry them slightly. To do this, use corners (tweezers, nippers). Thanks to this tool, you can avoid the appearance of mechanical damage (scratches, microcracks), both on the hands and on the dial. In cases where the watch model that you are repairing is not equipped with a calendar or chiming, it is possible to remove the dial, hour wheel and hands as a whole. Loosen all fixing screws carefully. In most cases, they are located on the front side of the mechanism opposite each other.All actions related to disassembly and assembly must be performed on a specialized stand that prevents dust from entering your workspace from the rest of the surface on which the stand is installed.

The fourth is the release of the spring. We apologize for the professional slang. Descent is a weakening of the spring winding. Take a pair of tweezers in your hand, the other - wind the spring by half a turn and in this state, use tweezers to move the dog. After that, slowly, without sudden movements, begin to release the winding shaft and wait for the moment when the spring is fully unwound.

Fifth - removing the balance bridge. Unscrew the fixing screws. Next, pry the bridge with tweezers and carefully, lifting it together with the balance, remove it from the clockwork. Be careful. Do not allow the balance spring to cling to the wheels. Remember that if you put the bridge down with a balance, you can damage the axle. Don't let this happen.

Sixth - removal of the anchor fork bridge. Unscrew the fixing screws. Next, remove the bridge, and then remove the plug itself.

Seventh - removing the spring bridge. This operation is performed in a similar way to the sixth stage.

Eighth - removal of the axle of the wheel system. First, remove the minute tribe located on the center wheel. If you practice with the alarm clock, which we talked about just above, then you do not need to shoot the minute trib. In addition, it is worth noting that in the mechanism of this alarm clock, the axles of the wheel system and the springs are one whole. After you unscrew the mounting screws and remove the axle, take out the wheels. Take your time and take out the wheels one at a time - this will allow you to avoid damaging adjacent wheels.

That's all. You have disassembled your first movement. However, it still needs to be collected. To do this, follow all the same steps in reverse order.

The first time is the most difficult. Therefore, we advise you not to try to piece everything together from memory. This will come later - with experience. It is best to run your eyes through the sequence described by us, only in reverse order and, only after that, perform the appropriate action. This way you can quickly and efficiently assemble your first movement, which has just been safely disassembled.

Good luck in your endeavors!
After writing this article, we have a new one, we invite you to get acquainted:
How to repair a mechanical wristwatch yourself. Instructions for beginners.

Friends, if you have any questions, as far as possible, I will try to answer everyone.
Write, call and come by contact information,
posted here (link CONTACTS AIRCRAFT shopping center)
We kindly ask you to pay attention that our workshop is located in Samara.

We hope that after reading this article, you have discovered something new and interesting for yourself.
And remember, if you are the owner of one of the watches that we talk about on our website and feel that they need repair or maintenance, or you just want to get professional advice from highly qualified watchmakers in the city of Samara, feel free to contact us.
Our experts will help you
to repair the following types of watches for you:

- old mechanical (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- wall-mounted (the possibility of repair is determined by the master at the time of inspection);
- floor;
- desktop;
- Pocket;
- wrist;
- and even electronic-mechanical and quartz.

We will be sincerely glad for all your thoughts that you leave in the comments under this article.