DIY canon 3110 mfp repair

START COPY CONFERENCE
Printers, copiers, MFPs, faxes and other office equipment:
issues of repair, maintenance, refueling, selection

of the usual time of day, the problem is this: Canon mf3110 prints through a PC,
the scanning mode works via USB, and when you try to make a hardcopy, a blank sheet comes out,
or, if you knock a little on the scanner unit,
it may come out as a black sheet or striped. Help please. Thanks in advance

1. Konstantin_stv 25.02.13 11:20

(0) And how can you help you here. your mfp smoothly transforms into a printer. The problem will be solved unless the replacement of the scanner.

(1) the scanning mode is working, the scanner is working properly, with a photocopy, a normal sheet may come out

(2) And the scanner loop is doing well, try to change it.

(2). your case is not the first time that an MFP has been turned into a printer, and probably not the last one either. The reasons for this phenomenon have long been found and discussed. ... well, you can try to replace the scanner carriage assembly for complacency, but most likely it will turn out the same: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3534/bbs1/msg/4971.htm

changed, the same thing, which is also interesting, if the scanner board is not assembled into a block, but left in a disassembled state, everything works fine.

(6). can be more detailed, what does it mean not to collect in a block?

(7) to what? Copies or printed 7k as a printer?

(8) Formatter board remains metal free. basics and does not screw onto the scanner unit (roughly speaking, it just hangs)

(10) Fix the problem with contacts and everything will work well.

(12) when trying to find a weak contact, with a hanging board (bending and light tapping), everything works.

The only one who pisses me off is the word “photocopies” in relation to canon?
(13) Look for a donor to substitute.
But the description is too painful for a campaign to "turn an MFP into a printer." And it doesn't matter that the subject is with low mileage.

15. Master Pepko 26.02.13 05:52

Or maybe it's time to knit a magnifying glass to view the soldering at the connectors, to solder if you can see the "cold soldering", but, of course, to check the scanner loop!
..such malfunctions are always very random, and at first glance, the localization of the defect may not be where it “seems to work when something is bent,” like in medicine: the head hurts and it’s not her fault, but simply hasn’t walked for a long time. endured, thought, swallowed pills!

The Canon MF3110 MFP has several common problems:

- The MF3110 takes multiple sheets in a row when printing one page, resulting in paper jams.

- The MFP does not come out on readiness for a long time due to the scanner warming up;

- Canon MF3110 printer picks up a stack of sheets from the lower tray.

These same problems are common when repairing Canon printers.

The problem is in one of the solenoids that is locking the gear on the axis of the paper feed roller. The sticking of the solenoid causes the paper feed roller to continue rotating, and after the first sheet, the second is also grabbed. In this case, the first sheet has not yet come out of the printer. The printer stops and jams due to paper out of sequence.

The solution is to repair or replace the solenoid. For this, the right side cover is removed, under it in the front part the gear block is disassembled. At the very bottom is the second solenoid, which is responsible for this problem. Repair price 2000 r.

This is a common problem with Canon MFPs that use lamp scanners. The lamp loses brightness, the scanner does not come to readiness for a long time. The solution is to replace the scan assembly.

The printer in the Canon MFP MF3110 may not pick up paper for the following reasons:

- the paper feed roller is erased or dirty, needs to be cleaned or replaced (replacement by disassembling the right side, removing gears, freeing the feed roller axis);

- the gear wheel of the feed roller drive is broken - it is eliminated by replacing the gear. Repair price 1500 rubles.

Lower chute brake or separator pad problem. The pads should be replaced. Price RUB 1500

Soldier

Group: Members
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6-March 12

I apologize if the topic seems hackneyed, but I have not achieved a clear answer from those in the know !! I ask you to respond who can advise what! The Canon 3110 MFP at the “perfect” moment stopped being detected on the USB port while the copier was working, the display and buttons on the MFP are working normally. We tried it in another computer and with other cords, but what about the bath, what after the bath. The connector on the board was subdivided - replaced with a new one (the soldering was rechecked ten times) and no result. Help kind people who can do anything (otherwise we are not local ourselves !!)

On this page you can download the Canon LaserBase MF3110 service manual in PDF format. The documentation contains detailed instructions for disassembling, maintaining and repairing this printer and is intended primarily for specialists at authorized service centers for servicing Canon printing equipment.

In this manual (often called the repair manual) you will find detailed information on troubleshooting, error codes and wiring diagrams of the device.

File type: PDF
Size: 5.1 MB
Language: EN
Number of pages: 176

Hello everyone! After my previous post about repairing printers, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I do not pretend to be such respected pikabushniks as qepka and 80cats (I am far from them and their work profile is different), I am very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show you about the repair of some printers that have visited our SC

Xerox WC3220, problem - after turning on it does not go on readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything is simple because with the same error, the same printers have already brought, the result - the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned out lamp, it seems to be understandable: it often turns on and off during operation (it was just that this was not the case before, and devices of about the same year of manufacture ¯_ (ツ) _ / ¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and the fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the thermo unit connection socket:

Looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the thermal sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole socket from another disassembled thermo unit.

Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling when printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - wear of the thermo unit drive gear:

In the photo, another printer seems to be Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others

Instead of teeth, the gear has thin plates, naturally there is no normal engagement with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermo unit. I think there are several reasons for this wear: different gear material, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermocouple, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the nodes to serve for a long time

Kyocera ES 1370N printer. Customer complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens in about 5-15 sheets.

I found out that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal on one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (with double-sided printing). I checked all this - the problem remained. Further, suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It is a pity that then I did not take enough pictures because my hands were constantly greased from gears (there is a mechanism that is not easy to disassemble)

Further repair of НР Р2035. They printed until the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: repairs for something about 3000 rubles, and it could be more if the heating element burned out (gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from the temperature

If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of rubber roller or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit from the printer), then turn off the printer and carry it to repair so that you will not spend even more on repairs.

Often, in HP / Canon printers, it is necessary to replace the bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft of the fuser unit. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with a loop from scrolling in place.

Ball bearings familiar to many are also put into printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. Often they wear out unevenly, in which case a distortion occurs and the thermal film slides towards the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they wear out, the clamp between the rubbers. the roller and the heating element becomes smaller, which is why the toner does not adhere well to the sheet (the image is erased if you slide your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher in our country is around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I do not understand what exactly is its high price, can any of the pikabushniks know?

The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be and the most common problem is poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: "Why is my printer doing there?" Well, I don't like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and all the rules, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring them with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo roll, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing again, or then a dissatisfied client will bring it again. The most reliable thing is to buy a new cartridge stupidly and not to steam. Moreover, the compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less

The cartridge itself consists of two parts: a toner cartridge (TN) and a photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. Someone, for example, puts chips with protection, which are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses a mechanism instead of chips, which, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts from the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible ... On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the dram starts to print badly. As I said before, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely empty out the old toner, invigorate the seals, clean the magnetic roller, metering and cutting blade), but with the drum it is more difficult. As we understood, charge leakage begins and that's it.

Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how a manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling for rotation of the photo roll (by the way, the cartridges are original)

Fortunately, the clutch is available, and it can be removed from the decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same fotoval drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the clutch slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to work on a collective farm with a gear cover so that the clamping of the clutch and the drives was tighter)

True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client brought it again with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no further kolkhoz photos - another person took up the printer.In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch display and log firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation takes too long, restart the computer (if there is firewood installed on the same printer, remove them completely and start the installation again)

Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. Quite a popular model with a reasonable price for an A3 paper machine. The client says he is jamming the paper in the fuser with an accordion. The client is to blame for this - when a jam occurs, the paper must be removed carefully, otherwise the seats of the paper separator fingers can be easily broken:

You can, of course, try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue, which we do not have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire lid of the thermo unit, there is no other way. If the printer displays a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand pages) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes you look inside to see if everything is okay with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fastening screws of one of the heating lamps pulled my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but it was necessary to tighten the usual one carefully) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices have disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, advised him to look into the thermo unit of the old decommissioned model of Toshiba, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was only one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it matched the broken one in terms of parameters.

That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them altogether. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only to eliminate problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (maximum start cleaning nozzles). Usually we reset errors, remove jams, change pick rollers, “diapers” and so on. Instead of cats at the end - fsh with Pikabu from which I blasted out loudly at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov

What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I slowed down on the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been repairing it. Now I will explain a little to those who do not know:

1. It is much more interesting (and even more difficult) to repair a printer than computers and laptops (it’s not just me about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal soldering station).

2. Variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop of experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but their percentage is not as large as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (immediately the cold ran through the body) with which you f * ck for several days and knowing exactly the node in which the malfunction (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked it up for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of work experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.

3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you do not say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, bitch, just try to fuck, I won’t fucking disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that I didn’t finish something. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you have to feel it so to speak. (to know in which case in which area to get off the feet).

4. Incredible thrill when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the fiercest pi * ets just).

5. Copiers (these are such big infernal office machines) are the raisins for an employee of the SC.Since this is the same printer, only there are more details - ask where are the raisins? For the price of repairs, they are charged 10 times more expensive.

And finally, I would like to end with the following phrase: you can't just pick up and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left.

DIY printer repair - what you can do at hometo save money on calling a master or sending a printing device to a service center? Not all problems can be solved on your own, but there are things that you can diagnose yourself. However, do not forget that a serious malfunction can be identified and corrected exclusively by the hands of a specialist with extensive experience and specialized tools for carrying out the corresponding work. Repair of printers by service center engineers YauzaOrgService guarantees high quality and speed of service delivery without overpayments. But what will it be possible to reveal at home?

• The most common cause of printer breakdown, whether Canon, HP, Epson, Oki, Samsung, Ricoh, Brother or Xerox, is to clean the machine irregularly. In simple words, it is dirt. It often leads to imbalance of the case, noise appears during operation, or paper picking stops. That is why it is recommended to clean the printing device at regular intervals and only when the equipment is off. But you need to know about the prohibition of the use of alcohol - for wiping we take only ordinary distilled water, a new sponge and cotton swabs.

• We check the correctness of operation: the printer must be plugged in, the tray is pushed in firmly to the very end, the sheet guides are set, the cartridges are correctly installed and there is no jam of foreign objects in the machine.

• Do not be afraid to inspect the inside of the equipment for paper debris or scraps, toner spills, plaster, sand, or water.

• Check the cartridge is full, if it has run out.

• If printer malfunctions are displayed as errors on the computer monitor, be sure to write down the code, number, or information on the screen for transmission to the wizard.

• Pay attention to the print quality of documents, whether there are additional streaks or spots, what color they are.

• Track the frequency of paper chewing.

• Listen for extraneous sounds, crackles, noises when printing.

Having considered all the above nuances, which often lead to the stoppage of the printer's functioning, you can speed up the process of correcting a malfunction, replace the repair procedure with preventive maintenance and save money on a specialist visit. Evaluation of the state of the equipment operability, the exact formulation of the problem and the listing of the problems that have appeared will allow the foreman to respond to the request as quickly as possible, since he will present the amount of work in advance. If this is not a serious breakdown and the situation allows you to repair parts, replace components or restore work quickly - printer repair can be carried out even at the diagnostic stage. By calling the phone number or sending an application through the website YauzaOrgService - assistance will be provided with the provision of a guarantee for all types of operations and services performed.

The article describes the method of disassembling the MFP "LaserBase MF3110" of the CANON company, as well as some features of the device's prophylaxis, replacement of its assemblies and parts.

Warning: The author is not responsible for possible negative consequences when performing repairs or maintenance work, so if you are not sure of your abilities, contact the specialists.

General information and required tools

Multifunctional device (MFP) "Canon LaserBase MF3110" (hereinafter - "MF3110") combines the capabilities of a color scanner, laser printer and copier and belongs to the class of devices for home and small office. Here are the main technical characteristics of the "MF3110":

- the maximum print speed of the printer is 20 pages per minute and the maximum resolution when printing is 1200 x 600 dpi;

- black-and-white copier with a maximum copying speed of 20 copies per minute, with a copying resolution of 600ґ600 dpi and a zoom range of 50-200%;

- color scanner with a CCD-sensor, providing a maximum resolution of 1200x2400 dpi.

"MF3110" is connected to the computer via the USB 2.0 interface. The manufacturer claims a cartridge yield of 2,500 pages. The MF-31102 model is based on the printing mechanism of the Canon LBP-3200 printer. The device is controlled using the front panel buttons with an LCD display or from a computer. The most common causes of "MF-3110" failures are dust and toner on the device elements, as well as foreign objects - clips or staples from a stapler, etc.

Preventive maintenance includes cleaning of dust and toner from the device components. The required degree of disassembly of the apparatus is determined by the set of operations performed. If there is no contamination and normal operation, the device should not be disassembled. Repair work begins with cleaning the device, external inspection of its components, checking for contact in the connectors, checking the operation of the device's sensors.

To perform disassembly, repair and maintenance work, you must have the following tools:

1. Flat screwdrivers - 2 pcs. (blade widths 3 and 5 mm).

6. Brush - 2 pcs. (soft and hard).

7. Vacuum cleaner for toner (if it is necessary to clean the components of the device from toner and dust).

In addition, depending on the work performed on the device, there may be a need for consumables (thermal grease, thermal paste, conductive grease, liquid and grease lubricants, acetone, alcohol, etc.) and spare parts.

Removing the covers from the device

1. Open the front cover, remove the cartridge from the device and place it in a dark plastic bag (from the cartridge packaging).

2. Remove the paper feed tray cover (located at the back of the machine), slide the tray toward you, and remove it from the machine.

3. Place the device with the back side facing you, unscrew the four self-tapping screws (Fig. 1) securing the side covers (two for each cover).

4. Place the device with the front facing you and open the front cover. On the right side, remove the limiter shaft from the hole (drive of the cartridge fixing mechanism) located on the cover (Fig. 2, item 1). To remove the axle with pliers or tweezers, squeeze the fixing latches located on it (Fig. 2, pos. 2).

5. Squeeze the cover with a screwdriver, remove the axle from the hole and remove it from the device (Fig. 3).

6. Unscrew the 4 screws securing the side covers (fig. 4, pos. 1).

7. Carefully move the covers to the sides (left - to the left, right - to the right) and remove them from the device (Fig. 5).

8. Open the back cover and set the stove rubber shaft clamping levers to the lower position (Fig. 6, item 1).

9. Unscrew the two screws securing the back cover (Fig. 6, pos. 2) and two self-tapping screws (Fig. 6, pos. 3). Move the cover towards you and remove it from the device.

1. Place the device with the left side facing you. Disconnect the narrow flat ribbon cable from the electronics board going to the scanner, and remove the ribbon ferrite filter installed on the adhesive tape from the side panel (Fig. 7, item 1).

2. Disconnect the power connector from the scanner (Fig. 7, item 2), after releasing the lock on the connector. Remove the wires from the grooves of the gasket.

3. Unscrew the screw located under the ribbon cable and the scanner fastening screw (Fig. 7, pos. 3, 4) located above the plastic retainer of the scanner (Fig. 7, pos. 5).

4. Place the device with the right side facing you. Unscrew the self-tapping screw for fastening the scanner (similar to the left side).

5. Unscrew the two self-tapping screws (one on the left and right sides) securing the scanner to the posts (Fig. 6, pos. 3), if they were not removed earlier.

6. Take out the two plastic clips located on the left and right sides below the self-tapping screws of the scanner and, slightly moving the scanner unit towards you, remove it.

The full article can be read in the paper version of the magazine

To begin with, the internal structure of the device

The machine is as you see with the ADF document feeder. We take out the cartridge and remove the tray. Remove the table cover by pulling it up

Unscrew 4 screws in the front and two upper screws from the overlays under them, 2 more screws fixing the upper part of the device

... 4 screws on the back and release the two side covers. We extract them

Using tweezers, squeeze the fixing clamps of the front cover, release the traction and use a flat screwdriver to squeeze the side guides, remove the front cover

We unscrew the 2 screws of the upper part of the device, and on the other hand, also only there they are behind the overlays, which must also be unscrewed. Yes, in Canone you have to unscrew more screws in HP in two times less. We immediately remove the stove cover in one by unscrewing 2 screws by lowering the side levers down

On the left, we release the harness with wires, unscrew one screw, take out the flat cable from the connector and move the upper part of the device away from us, remove it to the top

To remove the ADF, you will need to free the wiring harness by disconnecting the connector from the scanner board, which is located under the iron cover. We disconnect the loops for the convenience of releasing the bundle and pull it into the hole, having previously uncoupled the filtering ferrite

The board can be put back temporarily on two screws so as not to damage

ADF has two side covers, just on the latches, the right one cannot be removed without pulling the wires, but here is the engine on 3 screws

Having removed the ADF upwards, having previously opened it, clean it and put it in place

To get to the scanner and clean the mirrors, I followed the path of removing the front panel covers of a similar HP device, but here everything was a little different. As shown in the figure, you need to pry off the silver lining carefully without spoiling the appearance and remove it

Here they are and having unscrewed 2 screws that will remain to disconnect the plastic of the scanner body, before that, unscrew a couple of screws on the upper part next to the glass, I did not show them here and everything is clear

Hook in the marked places and halve the upper part. I could not remove the cover of the scanning device, it was clamped with the lamp, I had to clean the mirrors by removing the metal guide shaft with the scanner and turning it over

Two screws and two hooks release the cover underneath the laser block fuser board. It is necessary to divert the sensor wires

Remove the sensor. It is secured with a latch and a guide

Remove the metal stability bar and the upper paper feed from the oven

Turn the machine over to the back and release the paper feed roller from the lower tray. Pulling it out immediately will not work; you need to remove the gear from its rod

On the right side of the MFP, unscrew the plate (2 screws)

We remove the shown gear under it, another one that we need

We squeeze the gear retainer, pull it out, and the roller is now free

We unscrew the metal cover of the electronics board. One side is shown here. A total of 8 screws. Although you can not remove this metal cover, disconnect the stove wires (thermistor from the left side of the MFP)

Disconnect the thick stove power wires from the board connector and bypass the thermistor wires from the side opening. We squeeze and remove the springs fixing the heating element to the rubber shaft (2 small and 2 large)

We remove the plastic cover over the thermoelement after unscrewing 2 screws, here they are not visible and they are not very hidden anyway. We remove the metal plates. We take out the thermoelement with the film

We take out the rubber shaft. We change the plastic bushings (bushings) of the rubber shaft if necessary. Canon fuser bushings differ slightly from HP fuser bushings (similar to the HP LJ 1320) by the fixing protrusions. We lubricate the rubbing elements. Reassemble in reverse order. My impressions of disassembly: the cover of the scanner unit did not give in to me and suffered with the front panel, I wanted to remove the whole stove as in HP, but this was not required, and a bunch of wires had to be removed from the fasteners. The newer Canon i-SENSYS MF 3228 models are disassembled in exactly the same way.

Hello everyone, for 2 days now I have been trying to fix my canon mf3100 printer, the problem turned out to be in the printer tongue

The tongue enters the grooves without problems, but it does not spring, it just lies, although it should catch on the gear, as soon as I did not try to understand what was the matter, I already began to think about the spring that should push the tongue away, but there seemed to be no spring there.

Canon MF3110 trying to start
Good day. In general, I'll tell you the whole story, and then the question. The printer was working.

Do I need to reset the Canon 712 cartridge of the Canon LBP3010 printer after refueling?
How to refill a cartridge - everything is clear with this, but: "Do I need to reset.

Filling of the cartridge Canon 728 from Canon mf4410
Hello everyone, I refilled the Canon 728 cartridge from Canon mf4410 myself, filled up the full one.

Canon 728 and Canon fx 10 smudges sheet
Hello guys, I refueled the canon728 cartridge as expected, first cleaned everything.

Canon does not print
Hello, there is a problem with the Canon LBP 2900 USB printer, the printer is working.

Sergio 06-03-07, 03:20

When scanning into a computer, it produces a white sheet; when copying, it produces a rather interesting picture, completely different from the original image. Found a broken thread in the train, restored it. Scanning has not changed, the interesting picture has become a little darker when copied. Replacing the formatter solves nothing.

This is after the repair of the power supply unit (replacement of the transistor, zener diode and PWM controller).

Konstantin_stv 09-03-08, 02:25

Sergio 09-03-07, 03:26

I have already raised the power supply unit on it and the repair for the client will not cost 5k, it's a pity to give it in a half-dead state.

Added after 4 hours 1 minute 22 seconds:
I will describe the Nubian process of raising the power supply unit, since it did not work out with the scanner. I am not an expert on pulsed power supplies and I do not know the theory on them very well, everything that I have succeeded so far is everything under the supervision and with the help of older, more experienced colleagues, for which I am very grateful to them.

A power supply malfunction is indicated, firstly, a complete lack of response to the power supply, and, as in my case, a dead one at the power input))

In principle, the main parts of a switching power supply that can burn out with a voltage surge or short circuit in the printer: This is a PWM controller, a transistor, a rectifier, a zener diode. Therefore, armed with an ordinary multimeter in the diode dialing mode, we find and check first of all the power transistor.

Power on and test.
Sticking a power supply unit after repair directly into the network for verification is quite dangerous for the working time spent on this repair. We turn it on through a 220 volt 40 W incandescent lamp connected in series. If the lamp lights up and lights up when the power supply is turned on, it means that the repair is unsuccessful or the diagnosis is incomplete. A normal no-load PSU will give a short flash while the capacitor is charging. At this stage, I got one joint. The lamp came on, went out, but a second later, rhythmic flashes began. At the same time, I noticed that sparks jump between the radiator and the transistor in time with the lamp. Yeah, that means you need to isolate the transistor from the radiator, since the native one was completely plastic, so here you need to add a special gasket and a screw with a plastic washer. I picked it all off from a dead computer power supply unit. I started it, the lamp flashed and went out. So all the rules.

Checking the output voltages.
Before putting the power supply back in place, you should make sure that the output voltages are not too high, otherwise, instead of repairing, you can also set the formatter on fire. This MFP uses three voltages of 24 volts, 5 and 3.3. Zapops do not write voltage on the board, but in Samsung they are all marked. However, you can probably find the designation of the wires in the connector if you rummage in the service manual, but I'm too lazy. Having poked at random with a voltage meter into the connector pins, I found that all voltages were within the normal range and hurried to please the client that he was not on 3999 + repair work, but only on uhh. the squiggle on the ceiling looks like the number 6.600 + 900 rubles))))

Hello everyone! After my previous post about repairing printers, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I do not pretend to be such respected pikabushniks as qepka and 80cats (I am far from them and their work profile is different), I am very pleased for your support.In this post I want to tell and show you about the repair of some printers that have visited our SC

Xerox WC3220, problem - after turning on it does not go on readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything is simple because with the same error, the same printers have already brought, the result - the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned out lamp, it seems to be understandable: it often turns on and off during operation (it was just that this was not the case before, and devices of about the same year of manufacture ¯_ (ツ) _ / ¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and the fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the thermo unit connection socket:

Looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the thermal sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole socket from another disassembled thermo unit.

Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling when printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - wear of the thermo unit drive gear:

In the photo, another printer seems to be Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others

Instead of teeth, the gear has thin plates, naturally there is no normal engagement with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermo unit. I think there are several reasons for this wear: different gear material, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermocouple, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the nodes to serve for a long time

Kyocera ES 1370N printer. Customer complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens in about 5-15 sheets.

I found out that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal on one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (with double-sided printing). I checked all this - the problem remained. Further, suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It is a pity that then I did not take enough pictures because my hands were constantly greased from gears (there is a mechanism that is not easy to disassemble)

Further repair of НР Р2035. They printed until the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: repairs for something about 3000 rubles, and it could be more if the heating element burned out (gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from the temperature

If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of rubber roller or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit from the printer), then turn off the printer and carry it to repair so that you will not spend even more on repairs.

Often, in HP / Canon printers, it is necessary to replace the bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft of the fuser unit. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with a loop from scrolling in place.

Ball bearings familiar to many are also put into printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. Often they wear out unevenly, in which case a distortion occurs and the thermal film slides towards the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they wear out, the clamp between the rubbers. the roller and the heating element becomes smaller, which is why the toner does not adhere well to the sheet (the image is erased if you slide your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher in our country is around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I do not understand what exactly is its high price, can any of the pikabushniks know?

The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be and the most common problem is poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: "Why is my printer doing there?" Well, I don't like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and all the rules, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring them with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo roll, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing again, or then a dissatisfied client will bring it again. The most reliable thing is to buy a new cartridge stupidly and not to steam. Moreover, the compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less

The cartridge itself consists of two parts: a toner cartridge (TN) and a photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. Someone, for example, puts chips with protection, which are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses a mechanism instead of chips, which, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts from the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible ... On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the dram starts to print badly. As I said before, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely empty out the old toner, invigorate the seals, clean the magnetic roller, metering and cutting blade), but with the drum it is more difficult. As we understood, charge leakage begins and that's it.

Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how a manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling for rotation of the photo roll (by the way, the cartridges are original)

Fortunately, the clutch is available, and it can be removed from the decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same fotoval drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the clutch slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to work on a collective farm with a gear cover so that the clamping of the clutch and the drives was tighter)

True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client brought it again with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no further kolkhoz photos - another person took up the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch display and log firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation takes too long, restart the computer (if there is firewood installed on the same printer, remove them completely and start the installation again)

Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. Quite a popular model with a reasonable price for an A3 paper machine. The client says he is jamming the paper in the fuser with an accordion. The client is to blame for this - when a jam occurs, the paper must be removed carefully, otherwise the seats of the paper separator fingers can be easily broken:

You can, of course, try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue, which we do not have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire lid of the thermo unit, there is no other way. If the printer displays a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand pages) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes you look inside to see if everything is okay with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fastening screws of one of the heating lamps pulled my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but it was necessary to tighten the usual one carefully) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices have disappeared somewhere.Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, advised him to look into the thermo unit of the old decommissioned model of Toshiba, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was only one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it matched the broken one in terms of parameters.

That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them altogether. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only to eliminate problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (maximum start cleaning nozzles). Usually we reset errors, remove jams, change pick rollers, “diapers” and so on. Instead of cats at the end - fsh with Pikabu from which I blasted out loudly at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov

What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I slowed down on the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been repairing it. Now I will explain a little to those who do not know:

1. It is much more interesting (and even more difficult) to repair a printer than computers and laptops (it’s not just me about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal soldering station).

2. Variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop of experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but their percentage is not as large as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (immediately the cold ran through the body) with which you f * ck for several days and knowing exactly the node in which the malfunction (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked it up for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of work experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.

3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you do not say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, bitch, just try to fuck, I won’t fucking disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that I didn’t finish something. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you have to feel it so to speak. (to know in which case in which area to get off the feet).

4. Incredible thrill when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the fiercest pi * ets just).

5. Copiers (these are such big infernal office machines) are the raisins for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only there are more details - ask where are the raisins? For the price of repairs, they are charged 10 times more expensive.

And finally, I would like to end with the following phrase: you can't just pick up and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left.