This MFP was bought by me a few years ago realized. I settled on this model because of the possibility of refilling cartridges. Specially purchased a set of refillable cartridges HP178 (bought HERE ), as well as an OCP ink kit (bought HERE ). The overall impression of the HP B110B MFP is excellent. BUT. I don’t know how ordinary users use it, I have constant problems with repairs. Once I even turned to the workshop - they said to throw it away. I've been throwing it out for about a year now. Super masters do not want to work even for money.
The main breakdowns in the HP B110B MFP are the loss of contacts in the carriage loops and broken contacts at the cartridge installation sites. The cost of printing is a penny. Print quality is excellent even with cheap inks. I tried to buy a new MFP several times, but ......HERE . Installing the head was also dancing with a tambourine. Bottom line: it still works and most likely the old head was also good, but the problem is in the trains on the carriage.
I tell you how to quickly disassemble the HP B110B MFP.
Reason for disassembly: HP B110B MFP DOES NOT SEE BLACK CARTRIDGE.
Raise the lid of the HP B110B MFP, the head is parked in the open lid position.
We unscrew 6 screws and here is the first surprise. Two screws cannot be unscrewed just like that - the cover of the SCANNER UNIT is in the way.
The side covers, in addition to the screws, sit on 3 more latches on the bottom of the printer.
On the left side, after removing the cover, disconnect 2 cables white and black.
On the right side, unscrew the screw securing the limiter.
Lifting up, remove the scanner and put it aside. We don't need it yet.
Now we have access to 2 problematic screws. We twist them and remove the cover.
This is what the HP B110B MFP looks like from above. The head, carriage and cartridges are already available to us.
If the problem is not in the cables, then we continue to analyze the HP B110B MFP. We remove the cartridges. We don't leave them open for long. I don’t use lids, because I’m already working on disassembly with my eyes closed and they don’t have time to dry out for me. The same goes for the head.
If you remove the head cable, then keep in mind that there is a movable silicone stop under the cable. I forgot to take a picture of it.
To remove the carriage, loosen the toothed belt tensioner.
Remove the left and right cotter pins securing the carriage shaft.
Remove the shaft by pulling it to the right.
Now we can raise the carriage. Complete freedom of action.
We disassemble the carriage. To do this, release the head holder - remove 2 springs.
Remove the cover covering the board. It has 2 latches and is easily pry off with a screwdriver.
We unscrew 1 screw securing the printed circuit board. And we charge.
Now remove the cartridge contact board. There are a total of 6 latches, 3 on each side. The plate is spring, keep this in mind.
We get access to the cartridge contact board. In my case, the reason is precisely in this board. We clean contacts
Check moving contacts. They are easily interchangeable.
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. The disadvantage in this assembly is that the cables are not fixed in any way. Thus, they bring unnecessary trouble to the owner of the HP B110B MFP.
This assembly - disassembly helps even if various ink system failure errors pop up:
From time to time, printer owners encounter malfunctions. Most people have themselves acquired personal experience in eliminating minor flaws in such an apparatus.As practice shows, a frequent reason for the unwillingness of the printer to work can be a software failure or a minor mechanical failure that can be fixed on your own, without seeking help from a specialist.
Consider the probable causes of malfunctions and ways to eliminate them yourself, without resorting to the help of another person.
The device of printers such as HP, Canon, Epson, Samsung, Sharp, Ricoh is fundamentally the same. Therefore, consider several reasons that are found on all printing devices:
Important! In no case should you use detergents and alcohol-containing liquids.
In addition to all of the above, listen to the operation of your device. Are there any extraneous noises coming from it? If you hear them, this may be a signal that the gears that drive the printing mechanism have failed. In most cases, they are made of plastic.
Below we will consider how to repair using the HP LaserJet 1100 printer as an example. This instruction will also be useful for repairing a Canon, Samsung and Epson printer.
Suppose that during printing with a paper clip that was on a sheet, the thermal film was damaged. For repairs, you will need a small set of tools:
VIDEO
Important! During such work, each operation must be performed very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part may break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no extra parts left.
Today, almost every family has a home printer that allows you to print documents and take photos without leaving your home. But, as you know, any office equipment from time to time needs maintenance and, if necessary, minor repairs. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to fix printer malfunctions with your own hands, at home, without spending much money and wasting time. For example, consider a well-known brand - HP.
As you know, the Hewlett Packard brand is very popular in Russia. Printing devices of this brand can be found both at home and in enterprises and offices. The high popularity is due to the reasonable price of printers and the reliability of their work. But any, even the most unpretentious device sometimes needs maintenance.
To begin with, let's look at typical problems that arise when actively using HP inkjet printers, and how to solve them.
The first cause of possible malfunctions is internal contamination of the printer , leading to an imbalance of moving parts, the formation of noise during operation and knocking when the carriage moves.
Even an ordinary user can fix this problem, you don’t have to disassemble the printer - just buy a special lubricant sold in electronics stores and process all moving mechanisms.
To clean the printer from internal contamination, it is better to use ordinary distilled water; the use of alcohol for this purpose is contraindicated by the manufacturer.
If the text moves to the side during printing or the carriage hits the edges of the case, the cause may be dustiness or breakage of the "ruler" of positioning , along which the carriage is oriented in space.
In the first case, it will be enough for you to simply disassemble the back of the printer, get to the shaft and remove the ruler, then rinse it in warm water, wipe it with a dry sponge and dry it, then install everything back in reverse order (remember how the ruler was originally located) Turn on the printer and check its performance. If the line breaks, it is better to contact a specialized service center.
There is also another problem - the carriage does not cling to the gear teeth , the motor is idle. The reason for the failure is simple - poor tension of the drive belt. The problem is solved by inspecting and correcting the tension spring on the belt gear bracket. Perhaps it is poorly fixed or simply needs to be replaced.
The next problem is jerky carriage movement causing the printer to tear the paper. This is a serious malfunction associated with an imbalance in the print mechanism - the printer shaft has lost its original correct position. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to disassemble the printer - remove the carriage, ruler, shaft, toothed belt, clean all mechanisms by rinsing them in warm water, dry and assemble everything in its original state, lubricating all friction points of the carriage and adjusting its free play.
If your printer does not pick up paper, it is worth cleaning the rubber rollers in the lower tray, as well as adjusting the small spring that presses the paper against the roller.
If the printer gives out a strip on the printed sheets, you can safely say that the cartridge will soon run out, and to temporarily fix this problem, just remove it and shake it from side to side.
If several horizontal stripes appear, you can clean the transroller yourself (black roller under the cartridge). It pulls out easily, but try not to touch it with your hands. You can clean the roller with cotton pads or a soft cloth, it is also allowed to use isopropyl alcohol.
Summing up, we can conclude that most printer malfunctions are eliminated by cleaning them from pollution and adjusting mechanisms even at home. For this, elementary technical skills and patience are enough.
In this article, we will look at common problems with all-in-ones and how to fix them. Repair tips are relevant for almost all MFP models - HP, Canon, Epson, Xerox, Brother, Samsung, Ricoh, Toshiba and others.
If the scanner unit is broken in the MFP, then, most likely, it will not be possible to repair it at home. This may require replacement of the backlight or scanning head.
In principle, a malfunction of the scanning part of the MFP can be caused by breakdowns in the electronic part: it is necessary to check the capacitors for swelling, ring the power circuit with a multimeter, and also make sure that there are no burned-out elements.
If there are problems with the printer unit, then repairing it is usually not difficult at home.
Paper does not feed . It is necessary to check the correct installation of the cartridge (this applies to both inkjet and laser MFPs), there are situations when a foreign object gets stuck in the paper path. It must be removed and checked for physical damage that it could cause to the device.
The laser MFP may not be able to print due to cartridge chip not reset . This may happen after refueling. In this case, you need to either contact the service center to replace the chip, or purchase a new cartridge. You can replace the chip yourself. To do this, you need to find and buy a new chip (they cost from 30 to 150 rubles), and insert it in place of the old one.But for this you need to make sure that there is toner in the cartridge, otherwise replacing the chip is pointless.
Streaks on sheets (laser MFP) . In this case, you need to clean the drum unit. Remove the cartridge from the MFP, gently slide the protective cap (some models may not have it). Do not touch the photoconductor with your hands! Take a clean, dry, lint-free cloth and wipe any waste toner from the drum. Then install the cartridge back.
Printing Issues (Inkjet MFP) . White spots, incomplete color reproduction and other defects are all common in inkjet MFPs. First you need to try to troubleshoot software problems: cleaning the nozzles, calibrating the print head. If these steps do not help, you can purchase inkjet nozzle cleaner and clean with it. In no case do not use tap water, ordinary alcohol and other household products! You will only make it worse.
We hope you find these repair tips helpful. If so, call, consultation is free!
The Secret of the Master shares his successful experience in repairing the HP LaserJet 1010 laser printer. The instruction is suitable for HP LJ printers of the 1000 - 1200 series. The story is simple, the printer bought used (for 1000 rubles) worked for a year and was stupidly damaged by a sheet with a paper clip, streaked and began to rustle - it broke thermal film. Thermal film damage is easily confirmed by installing a replacement cartridge. Contacting the service center meant paying for repairs at least at a price comparable to buying a new printer. The search for thermal film for the printer was also incited, the sellers offered to buy thermal film at an unrealistic price of up to 1,500 rubles (it’s a red price
100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair, also at an exorbitant price.
The thermal film was searched for for a month and was bought for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. For repair, a simple tool is required:
The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.
Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Disconnect the power cord.
Step 1. Unplug the power cord
Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer
Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held by the stem. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.
Step: 3 Turn the back of the printer towards you, and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.
Step 3. Unscrew the screw on the left
Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right
Step: 4 Remove the side walls of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic latches on the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons is the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.
Step 4. Wall latches with buttons
Step 4. Wall latches without buttons
Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two mounting screws. Remove the cover.
Step: 6 Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.
Step 6Pry off the cover with a screwdriver
Step: 7 The power board is on the side of the power connector. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back wall. Just pull it up. Remember how it is attached preloaded by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizers.
Step 7: Power board connectors
Step 7: Fourth Connector Retainer
Step 7 Attach the Red Wire
Step 7 Red Wire Connector
Step 7. Wires are released
Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is fixed with three screws. See photo. Unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.
Step 8. The first screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The second screw for fixing the stove
Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove
Step: 9 We take the stove by the right edge and pull it out.
Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the top cover of the stove. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.
Step 10. The first cover screw
Step 10 Second Cover Screw
Step 10 Remove the oven lid
Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. We remember the position of the straps with springs and levers! Springs are located on the sides of the stove; we unhook the springs from below with long nose pliers. We remove the metal strips and clamping plastic levers from each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!
Step 11 Lever Mount Spring
Step 11 Remove each spring
Step: 12 Release the white wires from the clips and remove the thermal film drum. It just goes up.
Step 12. Remove the thermal drum
Step 12. Thermal Drum Removed
Step: 13 We remove the plastic tip with our own hands from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by clips.
Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermoelement from old grease and dirt with a damp cloth.
Step 14. Remove the thermal film
Step: 15 Apply new thermal grease to the surface of the stove. Carefully install the thermal film. The end of the cylinder must be fixed on the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove the protruding thermal grease.
Step 15: Apply Thermal Grease
Step 15. Put on the thermal film
Step 15: Remove Excess Thermal Grease
Step: 16 Assemble the stove in reverse order. The correct position of the slats in the photo.
Step 16 Lid Installed
Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Correctly install the red wire.
Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We raise the plastic flags of the stove during installation. so that they fall into the corresponding grooves in the cover.
Step 19 Printing a Test Page
Step: 19 After assembling the printer, we check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the network cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to pull without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. The first few pages may show smear marks around the edges. The work was done slowly within an hour. The savings from such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles per month.
Repair such breakdowns yourself!
Himself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.
And how to deceive a xerox 3140 laser printer, I have a problem, I bought a cartridge for it, the ink ran out, I started pouring new powder and then it says that supposedly there is no cartridge and it stopped printing, the red diode is on and that's it / How can you tell me to deceive him?
To prolong the life of the printer, it is necessary to carry out maintenance of the printer itself once a year. Also, this article will come in handy if there is a need to repair the printer. The designs of inkjet printers are similar. Consider the HP D2663 inkjet printer as an example.
How to open the printer. Three screws securing the cover are easy to find, but the fourth screw is hidden under the control button.
Gently hook the button with the tip of a screwdriver and remove the button from its seat (do not lose the light guide, it will fall out of the button).
That's where the fourth screw is located. Without knowing this, they usually break the printer cover.
Other useful information:
wrote to the forum: Q&A : Olga on: 09/17/2018
wrote to the forum: Q&A : Dmitry on: 03/25/2018
wrote to the forum: Q&A : Sanya on: 07/12/2017
Today, almost every family has a home printer that allows you to print documents and take photos without leaving your home. But, as you know, any office equipment from time to time needs maintenance and, if necessary, minor repairs. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to fix printer malfunctions with your own hands, at home, without spending much money and wasting time. For example, consider a well-known brand - HP.
Have you ever faced the need to repair a printer? God forbid, of course, but still. How did you act in this situation? I bet that the majority handed over their devices to service centers or workshops. This is where the main question comes up - is the repair worth that kind of money? Perhaps the problem could be fixed at home. I want to warn you right away - not all breakdowns can be eliminated by yourself. If, for example, the motor is covered or the gear is broken, then you want it or not, but you have to take it to smart uncles. And one more "but". For people who cannot distinguish a slotted screwdriver from a Phillips screwdriver, it is better not to read the article. To carry out the actions described below, you need a pair of hands growing from the right place, otherwise there is a high probability of making things worse. So, let's start with general phrases, and finish with specific examples. Based on personal experience, I want to note that the electrical part breaks down quite rarely in printers. Basically, the mechanics or mechanism of the head fails. In the latter case, there is practically no hope for an independent repair.
To begin with, let's look at typical problems that arise when actively using HP inkjet printers and how to solve them.
The first cause of possible malfunctions is the internal contamination of the printer, leading to an imbalance in the moving parts, the formation of noise during operation and knocking when the carriage moves.
Even an ordinary user can fix this problem, you don’t have to disassemble the printer - just buy a special lubricant sold in electronics stores and process all moving mechanisms.
To clean the printer from internal contamination, it is better to use ordinary distilled water; the use of alcohol for this purpose is contraindicated by the manufacturer. If during printing the text shifts to the side or the carriage hits the edges of the case, the cause may be dustiness or a break in the positioning “ruler”, along which the carriage is oriented in space.
In the first case, it will be enough for you to simply disassemble the back of the printer, get to the shaft and remove the ruler, then rinse it in warm water, wipe it with a dry sponge and dry it, then install everything back in reverse order (remember how the ruler was originally located) Turn on the printer and check its performance. If the line breaks, it is better to contact a specialized service center.
The presence of elementary dirt in the printer can lead to some problems, including: extraneous noise in the device, unbalance of the mechanism, the printer does not capture paper or the carriage, moving with a knock and hitting the edge of the case. Printer cleaning grease is available at any electronic parts store. Never clean the printer with alcohol, it is better to use distilled water. The fact is that alcohol can damage thin and small parts. In addition to water, you will need a screwdriver, a foam rubber sponge and a dozen cotton buds.
There is also another problem - the carriage does not cling to the gear teeth, the motor is idling. The reason for the failure is simple - poor tension of the drive belt. The problem is solved by inspecting and correcting the tension spring on the belt gear bracket. Perhaps it is poorly fixed or simply needs to be replaced.
Carriage-related breakdowns are fixed easier and faster than other problems. The printer will not even need to be untwisted. One of the main details of the carriage is a transparent ruler with which the printer is oriented. The stability of the carriage is affected by the degree of dustiness of this line. Turn off the printer, remove the case and remove the ruler, just be sure to remember the position in which the ruler was located. Rinse the ruler in warm water and dry, then reattach it to the printer.
The next problem is jerky carriage movement causing the printer to tear the paper.This is a serious malfunction associated with an imbalance in the print mechanism - the printer shaft has lost its original correct position. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to disassemble the printer - remove the carriage, ruler, shaft, toothed belt, clean all mechanisms by rinsing them in warm water, dry and assemble everything in its original state, lubricating all friction points of the carriage and adjusting its free play.
If the carriage does not move smoothly, but intermittently, or the printer tears the paper, this means that the printer mechanism is out of balance. To fix this problem, first turn off the printer, remove the case, and remove the ruler. Next, remove the toothed strap attached to the gears. Loosen the screws located on the back side of the shaft. Clean the shaft, and correct the unbalanced elements. After that, you can reassemble the printer.
If your printer does not pick up paper, it is worth cleaning the rubber rollers in the lower tray, as well as adjusting the small spring that presses the paper against the roller.
If the printer gives out a strip on the printed sheets, you can safely say that the cartridge will soon run out, and to temporarily fix this problem, just remove it and shake it from side to side.
If several horizontal stripes appear, you can clean it yourself transroller (black roller under the cartridge). It pulls out easily, but try not to touch it with your hands. You can clean the roller with cotton pads or a soft cloth, it is also allowed to use isopropyl alcohol.
Summing up, we can conclude - most printer problems are fixed by cleaning and adjusting mechanisms, even at home. For this, elementary technical skills and patience are enough.
Some printer problems can be fixed at home. Although, of course, not from everyone, then it is better to contact the service center. This advice can also be followed by people who cannot tell the difference between a Phillips screwdriver and a slotted one.
If it was not possible to fix the problem at home, then contact the professionals at the service center.
Hello everyone! After my previous post about printer repair, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I don’t pretend to be such respected pick-ups as qepka and 80cats (I’m far from them and their work profile is different), I’m very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show about the repair of some printers that have been in our SC
Xerox WC3220, the problem is that after turning it on it does not go into readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything was simple. the same printers were already brought with the same error, the result was that the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to often bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned-out lamp, it seems to be clear: it often turns on and off during operation (it just didn’t happen before, and devices are about the same year of production ¯_(ツ)_/¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the socket for connecting the thermal unit:
It looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the temperature sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole nest from another disassembled thermal unit.
Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling during printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - the wear of the drive gear of the thermal unit:
The photo shows another printer, it seems Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others
Instead of teeth, the gear had thin plates; naturally, there is no normal hook with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermal unit. I think there are several reasons for such wear: different material of the gears, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermal unit, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the units to serve for a long time
Printer Kyocera ES 1370N. The client's complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops.This happens after about 5-15 sheets.
I found that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal from one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (during duplex printing). Checked all this - the problem remained. Further suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It’s a pity that then I didn’t take many pictures because my hands were constantly lubricated from gears (there is a difficult mechanism to disassemble)
Further repair HP R2035. They printed to the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: a repair in the amount of something around 3,000 rubles, and it could have been more if the heating element had burned out (a gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from temperature
If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of a rubber shaft or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit of the printer), then turn off the printer and take it to repair so that you don’t have to spend even more money on repairs
Often in HP / Canon printers, the bearings (bushings) of the rubber roller of the thermal assembly need to be replaced. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with an eyelet from scrolling in place.
The ball bearings familiar to many are also installed in printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. It often happens that they wear out unevenly, in which case there is a distortion and the thermal film moves out in the direction of the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they are worn, there is a clamp between the rubbers. the shaft and the heating element become smaller, which is why the toner is poorly fixed on the sheet (the image is erased if you run your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher costs us around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I don’t understand what exactly is its high price, maybe one of the pikabushniks knows?
The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be their most common problem - poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: “What's up with my printer”, and I want to answer - fucked. Well, I don’t like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and everything is fine, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service, I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo shaft, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing happens again or then the dissatisfied client brings it again. The most reliable thing is to stupidly buy a new cartridge and not bathe. Moreover, a compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less
The cartridge itself consists of two parts: the toner cartridge (TN) and the Photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo shaft. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. For example, someone puts chips with protection that are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses instead of chips a mechanism that, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts out of the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible . On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the drum starts to print badly. As I said, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely pour out the old toner, revitalize the seals, clean the magnetic roller, dosing and cutting blades), but it’s more difficult with the drama.As we understand, the charge leakage begins and that's it.
Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how the manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling due to the rotation of the photo shaft (by the way, the cartridges are original)
Fortunately, the couplings are available, and you can remove them from decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same photoshaft drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the engagement slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to collective farm with a gearbox cover so that the clutch clamp and drives were tighter)
True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client again brought with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no photos of the further collective farm - another person took care of the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch screen and mowing firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation is taking too long, restart the computer (if there are firewood installed on the same printer, completely remove them and start the installation again)
Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. A fairly popular model with an acceptable price for an A3 paper format device. The client says that he jams the paper in the thermal knot with an “accordion”. The client himself is to blame for this - in case of a jam, the paper must be carefully removed, otherwise you can easily break the seats of the paper separation fingers:
Of course, you can try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue that we don’t have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire cover of the thermal unit, there is no other way. If the printer gives a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand sheets) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes look inside, see if everything is in order with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another similar Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fixing screws of one of the heating lamps, I jerked my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but I had to carefully tighten the usual one) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, he advised me to look into the thermal unit of the old decommissioned Toshiba model, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it coincided in parameters with the broken one.
That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them at all. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only fixing problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (start cleaning the nozzles at the most). Usually we reset errors, eliminate jams, change the capture rollers, “diapers”, and so on. Instead of seals at the end - fsh with Peekaboo from which I blew up in a voice at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov
What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I stopped at the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been engaged in its repair. Now I will explain a little for those who do not know:
1. Repairing printers is much more interesting (and even more difficult) than computers and laptops (only I don’t need about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal pro soldering station).
2. A variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop to experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but they are not as huge as when repairing PCs / laptops.There are instances (the cold immediately ran through the body) with which you fuck for several days, and knowing specifically the node in which the malfunction is (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked his bitch for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC, which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.
3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you don’t say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, just try to fuck off, I won’t disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that something has not been completed. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you need to feel it, so to speak (to know in which case in which area to fuck off your feet) .
4. Incredible buzz when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the most fierce pi * ets just ).
5. Copiers (these are such big office infernal machines) - the most raisin for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only more details - ask where are the raisins? They are charged 10 times more expensive for the repair price.
Video (click to play).
And finally, I would like to end with this phrase: you can’t just take and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left .
