In detail: DIY repair of mini sewing machines from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Do-it-yourself sewing machine repair - instructions. How to renovate an industrial, antique (antique)
Clothes are an attribute of the life of every person. It reflects the lifestyle of the individual, his social position and serves as a means of self-expression. In modern society, clothes are made using a special technique that greatly simplifies human labor - sewing machines. The sewing machine cannot run flawlessly all the time. Like any mechanism, it needs care, adjustment, lubrication, and sometimes repair. In case of minor malfunctions, repair of the sewing machine can be carried out independently. However, there are problems in which only a repair shop can bring the sewing machine back to life. Let's try to figure out in which cases it is possible to repair sewing equipment at home, and in which it is necessary to seek help from professionals.
An industrial sewing machine is mainly purchased by firms or individuals who are professionally involved in sewing garments. A feature of industrial sewing machines is the presence of a table, an electric drive and a lamp. It is better to trust the repair of modern industrial sewing machines to qualified specialists in order to avoid additional problems during self-repair. If the problems are insignificant or there is no opportunity and funds to contact a professional, instructions for repairing an industrial sewing machine will come to the rescue.Based on the above adjustments, you need to proceed to the next step of setting the sewing technique, which consists in setting the gap between the hook nose and the needle point at the time of their meeting in the size of 0.05-0.1 mm. It should be noted that the needle should pass at a minimum distance from the hook nose, but not come into contact with it.
Another important point of the equipment is adjusting the tension of the compensation spring. It happens that this spring is not in the machine at all, or it is there, but does not work. In this case, the machine itself can function quite normally, without giving the seamstress cause for concern. However, it is the correct operation of this spring that allows you to make beautiful stitches, especially on delicate fabrics. To adjust this spring, you need to loosen the tensioner fastening screw and completely remove the tensioner. To avoid problems with re-installing the tensioner, sketch, photograph or remember how it was assembled. Next, you need to move the spring leash.
Video (click to play). |
Quite common is the situation when problems in working with a sewing machine arise due to improper operation, lack of cleaning and lubrication measures, lack of correspondence between the types of needles, threads and fabrics. In this case, it is realistic to repair the sewing machine with your own hands. And the first thing to start with in this case is to study the rules of operation and repair that are attached to the sewing equipment.
Consider the typical problems of sewing equipment, the main reasons for their occurrence, which will help answer the main question: how to repair a sewing machine at home.
Upper thread breakage - may occur due to:
- incorrect threading of the upper thread;
- entanglement of the upper thread - appears when used when sewing tapered spools, threads from which come off with a jerk and in excess. It is this excess that gets tangled in the creel, which causes the thread to break. The creel is an additional stand for bobbins, thanks to which the thread is removed upwards and not sideways;
- excessive tension of the upper thread;
- bluntness or bending of the needle. An ordinary magnifying glass will help to detect the curvature of the needle tip. Also, problems with the needle can be signaled by the appearance of a dull sound when the sewing machine is operating. When a similar problem arises, it is necessary to urgently replace the damaged needle, so as not to spoil either the machine or the fabric;
- inconsistencies of threads, needles and fabrics;
- the presence of burrs and burrs in the direction of the thread from the spool to the needle. If there are any, remove them with a fine file or other grinding tool;
- loosening of the bobbin case lock spring. If a similar situation arises, you can try to stretch the spring a little, but it will be safer to purchase a new serviceable bobbin case;
Breaking the bobbin thread - occurs for the following reasons:
- there is a tangling of the lower thread in the shuttle course;
- the thread was not threaded correctly into the bobbin case. The best solution in this case is to check if your steps for threading the thread are in accordance with the procedure for threading the bobbin case described in the instruction manual;
- the bobbin thread is too tight - can be loosened by adjusting the upper thread tension or by half a turn of the screw in the bobbin case;
- burrs and other defects on the bobbin case - the bobbin needs to be replaced.
Skipped stitches in a line - appears for the following reasons:
- the use of industrial needles, which do not have a saw cut on the flask, for sewing on household sewing machines;
- Corner set incorrectly or too high. When threading into household sewing machines, it should be remembered that the thread is always inserted from the side of the long groove, and the cut of the bulb of the household needle is located on the back side. If the corner is fixed too high, then when the needle converges with the nose of the shuttle, the latter will not be able to capture the needle loop;
- dullness, curvature of the needle;
- incomparability of the needle, thread and fabric;
- accumulation of debris and thickened oil under the throat plate. Cleaning and relubricating all parts under the throat plate will be the solution.
Looped threads, uneven stitching may occur in the following cases:
- uneven winding of the thread on the spool or bobbin. You should not wind the threads on the bobbin yourself, for this there is a special device that evenly lays the threads, which guarantees an even thread coming off. It is incredibly difficult to achieve such an effect manually, and a mistake can lead to clamping of the thread between the turns and the appearance of loops;
- excessively weak / strong tension of the upper thread or excessively strong / weak tension of the lower thread;
- weak / excessive tension of both threads;
- accumulation of lint, dust and debris in the upper thread tensioner - you should disassemble the tensioner and clean everything thoroughly;
- a slot has formed under the leaf spring on the bobbin case. The solution to the problem in this case comes down to buying a new bobbin case.
Violation of the movement of the fabric during sewing occurs for several reasons:
- the rack teeth have become dull;
- the rack teeth are incorrectly positioned.
Factors causing needle breakage:
- there is no correspondence between the needle, thread and fabric;
- the needle is rusted, bent or dull;
- there is a curvature of the needle bar or it is set high / low;
- while sewing, you move the material yourself - you need to adjust the degree of pressing the fabric with the foot, the level of the rack teeth, then the machine will be able to move the fabric on its own.
The sewing machine operates slowly and noisily under the following conditions:
- lint and dust have collected under the throat plate.
- the machine needs lubrication;
- excessive tension of the drive belt - it is necessary to adjust the tension of the belt in such a way that when the finger is pressed, it will bend with difficulty, but it will bend.
Thus, often the need to repair sewing equipment arises as a result of non-observance of the rules of operation and insufficient maintenance, and the entire repair of the machine comes down to setting up its mechanisms and replacing a faulty needle or bobbin case.
By buying sewing equipment in stores or from authorized dealers, you get the opportunity to service your machine in the future, and, if necessary, apply for warranty and post-warranty repairs. Additional maintenance of sewing equipment includes:
- training buyers in the correct use of the machine and all its functionalities, can take place in the form of presentations, master classes, videos;
- training clients in the basics of care, cleaning and lubrication;
- explanation of typical problems that customers can fix on their own (replace the needle, belt drive, adjust the thread tension, adjust the stitching, clean and lubricate the machine, tighten the screws);
- supplying customers with the necessary set of spare parts and consumables (screwdrivers, lubricators, needles, etc.);
- installation of software for electronic sewing equipment;
- provision of related products and sewing accessories.
In case of serious breakdowns, for example, malfunction of the shuttle socket, problems in electrical and electronics, the client will have to resort to the services of a service center, if the equipment is still under warranty, then the malfunctions will be eliminated under the terms of warranty repair. In general, sewing equipment repair service centers carry out a wide variety of repairs: from cleaning and lubricating to replacing electronic boards.
On your own it is really possible to change the brushes and the electric drive. The need to replace old brushes with new ones can be determined by turning off the lights in the room and working a little without light. If the engine sparks or emits a crack, then it's time to change the brushes, which can be purchased at service centers or sewing equipment stores. Usually the brushes are easy to get: you need to unscrew the locking washers with a screwdriver. However, in almost all Soviet typewriters, the brushes are located inside the motor housing.
Repairing a sewing equipment motor most often means replacing it. However, buying a new electric motor can be a serious problem, since modern cars do not have a single mounting standard for an electric drive, which cannot be said about the old Soviet ones. Therefore, it would be more correct to contact the service center of the manufacturer of your particular sewing machine. Firstly, they will select the ideal engine and pulley, and secondly, set up the parliaments for turning on the typewriter and lighting the workplace.
In order for the electric motor to work for a long time and properly, it is necessary to observe the modes of work and rest, which are spelled out in the operating rules for household sewing machines. Otherwise, the electric motor will overheat, the wires will melt, become exposed over time, which will eventually lead to a short circuit and complete failure of the engine. Industrial sewing equipment has a different engine structure and more powerful fans, so it can work for a long time without rest. Another useful tip - do not leave the sewing equipment plugged in for a long time, always unplug the power plug, because although the machine will not work, the power will still be supplied to the electric drive.
The mechanics who repair sewing equipment have a decent arsenal of tools and fixtures for repairing. Among them: keys, awl, wire cutters, staples, platypuses, metal rods, needle files, vernier calipers, triangular file, pliers, hammer, cleaning brush, as well as an oiler and spare parts for repairing a sewing machine. As you can see, there are many tools, some of them are in every home. The most important and necessary tools that every seamstress or tailor should have are a screwdriver, pliers, something made of sanding material, a cleaning bead and an oil can. Everything else, if necessary, can be purchased or borrowed.
If, nevertheless, a breakdown occurs and spare parts for the sewing machine are needed, there are repair shops and special sewing equipment stores that offer a wide range of parts: feet, bobbin case, thread take-up, motor, thread tension regulator, toothed rack, foot lifting mechanism, foot holder, presser foot screw, stitch length adjuster, pedal, throat plate, needles and needle bar. In addition, parts can also be ordered from online stores.
Sewing machines do not lose their popularity even in the twenty-first century. Those who were born in the Soviet era remember that from childhood girls were taught to sew various things, from gloves to jackets and coats.
During the Soviet era, most people did their own sewing machine repairs. Even today, those who attend sewing and sewing courses understand that it is better to repair a sewing machine on their own than to take it to a service center:
- Firstly, companies that repair sewing machines demand quite a lot of money from their customers for the services they provide.
- Secondly, the device of even modern machines can be figured out in a matter of hours, one should only carefully approach this issue, and in the future this will allow repairing sewing machines without involving third parties.
Let's take a look at the basic rules for operating sewing machines:
- Sewing equipment should not be placed near batteries or heaters. But at the same time, it should be in a dry room, in which there are no signs of dampness;
- Before starting work, it is necessary to select the necessary materials and tools, needles and threads that will be needed in the process of work;
- Before you start sewing, you need to make sure that the needle and thread guide are in the up position;
- Remember that the sewing machine must be helped at the time of sewing by pulling the fabric towards you;
- After the sewing work is finished, raise the presser foot and pull out the fabric. Next, cut the thread, having found a free end in advance, the length of which will be equal to a maximum of seven, but at least five centimeters.
There are rules and they must be followed. The use of quality materials and additional tools minimizes the occurrence of problems and malfunctions when working with sewing machines. Therefore, the following reasons, which led to malfunctions, are the most common:
- Broken thread. Breakage can occur both with the upper and lower threads. In the first case, the problem is associated with the selection of low-quality threads or the size of the needle is not correctly selected. In the second case, the problem of a malfunctioning sewing machine may be associated with irregularities, the presence of burrs in the bobbins, and with improper winding of the thread.
- Problems with advancing the fabric. If such a problem arises, you need to carefully look at the position of the teeth. If they are lifted up or lowered to the bottom, then it is required to bring them to a normal state;
- Cutting through the fabric. If such a problem arises, in order to fix the machine, we need to reduce the pressure of the presser foot, and check the condition of the needle, it may be too dull.
The above problems are not serious, and are eliminated in a matter of minutes. But there are some types of problems that do not occur very often. Therefore, repairing sewing machines with your own hands, if they occur, will take a lot of time.
The most difficult, most serious breakdown should be considered the appearance of a knock when the sewing machine is running. To solve this problem, it is necessary to pull the flywheel several times, and do this in accordance with the axial direction of the machine.
In order to repair the sewing machine, it must be disassembled. We disassemble the sewing machine in the following sequence:
- Remove RP (manual drive). It is necessary to remember its location, this will allow you to subsequently assemble a sewing machine in a short period of time;
- Unscrew the stopper from the nut, which is a classic screw. It is under a manual drive, at the time of assembly it must be screwed back to its original location;
- Remove flywheel. This must be done carefully, avoiding damage to it, in case of a malfunction of the flywheel after assembling the machine, you need to see if everything is in order with it;
- Remove the bobbin that looks like a taper. It is located below, after the flywheel. Finding it will not be difficult;
- Remove the bushing from the shaft base;
- Slide a tin washer onto the shaft. It is very simple to make such a washer, just cut out the bottom of a tin can.
The washer in 40% of cases is a guarantee of high-quality performance of work using a sewing machine. Sometimes adding it to the typewriter is enough to solve the problem, but this does not always happen. When adjusting the operation of sewing machines, in 60-70% of cases, it is necessary to turn the rail 180 degrees.
The needles are the basic elements that make the sewing machine work. Its further work depends on which needle is chosen. If a defective needle is selected, then the occurrence of the above problems is not a rare case, because the needle is the basis, and without it it is impossible to sew a single thing.
Therefore, when choosing a needle, you must carefully consider its size and thickness. You also need to check the needle numbering if you are doing any complicated sewing work, otherwise it may happen that the thing does not turn out the way you imagined it earlier.
There is another problem in which the wrong choice of a needle can lead to stretching and damage to the tissue. If the needle is too thick and the fabric is thin, then you cannot use the needle with such fabric, otherwise it will break.
Using too thick fabric with a small needle may break the needle. In order to sew something from a compacted fabric, you need to choose a thicker needle, if it is not available at home, then go to the store and purchase it. Before doing this, measure the thickness of the fabric in advance - this will allow you to choose a needle in the store in a shorter time, you will need to tell the seller the thickness of the fabric, and he will independently select the needle of the size you need.
Complex repairs of sewing machines related to the adjustment of units and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced master. But such repairs are rarely performed, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine starts to “play up” if the rules of its operation, specified in the instructions, are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not followed.
The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunction is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this sewing machine model. Sewing a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, subsequent complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.
This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY repair of a sewing machine.
Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in the tissue and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle hits the metal part of the machine body, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How would such a point pierce the tissue? Only one way is to break it.
Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will catch on the curved point and “slow down”, creating excess upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason the loops appear in the stitching. Moreover, the curved tip will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult to sew areas, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.
It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly has no blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
You do not need to throw out the used needles, as there are situations when the needles break one after the other, for example, when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.
Another reason for adjusting the sewing machine, especially the old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect insertion of the needle into the needle bar. The needle blade (fig. B) should be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the stitch plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly begins to twist and break the thread.
It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you break the gap between the hook point and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine hook. Some commercial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and may touch the surface of the hook, scratch it or even damage the hook.
Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is a curve or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.
To make the sewing machine “more confident” to work with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and make it easier for the thread to pass through the fabric, almost eliminating skipped stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.
The thread looping in the stitching, as well as the characteristic knock during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, incorrectly set shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor quality stitch, pay attention first of all to the condition of the needle, to the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working properly. Very often, children like to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.
It is sometimes necessary to repair the sewing machine Chaika quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle move.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a sewing machine Chaika can be used for other models of household machines.
First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass; it should not have any chipping or rusty spots. If there are jags, they must be removed with a small file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the file marks and loops will appear below. Only this must be done carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the shuttle nose.
Sometimes the bobbin (the bobbin thread is wound around it) can cause repairs to the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the units, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread fleece, the bobbin thread will come out in jerks and the upper thread in the stitching will periodically loop from below.
Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You are tightening it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread fluff has accumulated, which prevents the washers from fully squeezing. The fastening of the tensioner (Chaika) may have loosened.
But still, most often, sewing machines such as the Seagull have a malfunction in the parameters of the shuttle and the needle. This is a complex type of repairing a sewing machine, more precisely setting, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason due to which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.
The most common cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in a stitch, uneven stitching, skips, etc. This often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic body is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even completely "falls out" of the body.
In this photo, arrows indicate the attachment of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, intersecting seams on leather goods, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move upward with the needle.
Loosen the screw slightly and adjust its position, making sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turning left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article "The device of the sewing machine tensioner Chaika".
Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching by Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others implies setting the position of the looper point above the needle eye by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper point approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle drop (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The point of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost closely to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.
In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10-point wrench, and holding the handwheel by hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle stroke) by adjusting the position of the hook point in relation to the needle.
However, these are not all of the parameters for adjusting the interaction of the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment when the needle starts to rise.The needle descends to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.
But that's not all. For sewing machines performing a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. With the left and right prick of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should run slightly above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, about 1 mm.
However, such adjustments are often not required to be performed, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the shuttle interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, adjusting the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the shuttle from dust and fleece, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle move and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the stitch plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.
The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, you need a more accurate adjustment of these parameters, which can only be set by the master.
In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary as long as the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, not let it into the “wrong” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.
After prolonged operation, clean the bobbin compartment and other accessible places from dust, fleece, oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it a little “idle” on it, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into units and places of friction.
It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.
The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a cool, dry place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden, and the machine will turn tightly, or even jam. This case is considered in the article Podolsk Manual Sewing Machine.
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Many who tried to sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. There are gaps in the knitted stitching, the lower thread loops and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can you fix it? What is the difference between a carpetlock and an overlocker and a coverlock
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These machines are 40-50 years old, and they still sew, which cannot be said about modern imported consumer goods. I bought it and threw it away, and my grandmother's rarity is carefully kept, in many families, as a memory and as a masterpiece of Soviet industry.
Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinina produced such sewing machines of class 2-M.
Unpretentious, reliable, easy to operate, always rescued in difficult times, and allowed many to earn bread. It is a pity to see how young people are now getting rid of old things that can serve their masters for a long time to come. Most of these machines are now resting in a landfill. And earlier the sewing machine was affectionately called the nurse, she fed and sheathed the family.
It's time to get down to business.
First of all, we cut off the fabric that women love to sew on the “waist” of the machine. Believe me, there is no benefit from it, used needles, bent, blunt, are stuck into it, and then they try to reuse the same needles. And they cannot understand why this machine does not sew. In addition, after such sticking, the coating deteriorates and such scars remain. Used needles should be thrown into the trash can, where they should be.
We disassemble the machine, remove all covers, the stitch plate, disassemble the shuttle, as shown in the photo.
It can be seen that pile from fabric and thread has accumulated on the shuttle travel body, there are even pieces of thread and all this is mixed with thickened oil.
And here, too, dust and thickened oil.
And this is the place where no seamstress, during the entire operation of the machine, never looks. Lint and dust and sand accumulate here, in general, everything that gets into the holes of the needle plate.
We remove all this byaka with a needle and tweezers.
The toothed rack also needs to be cleaned; it is best to do this with a large needle.
And naturally we clean the shuttle, it is good to use kerosene for these purposes, if it is not there, then you can remove the thickened oil with a knife or screwdriver.
We removed all the dirt and old oil, now we start lubricating the machine.
For these purposes, it is best to use an ordinary disposable syringe, with the thickest needle possible. I do not advise you to lubricate with an oil can, it overflows the oil, and you will stain the machine, and you yourself will get dirty. The oil can be bought at any hardware store. Household Lubricating Oil will do.
Here, the arrows indicate the technological holes for lubrication, we bury 3-4 drops in each hole, no more.
And here it is imperative to instill in both holes, one hole of the needle bar and the other of the presser foot.
In these places, the needle bar is rarely lubricated at all, the friction is frantic and the metal is generated, a backlash is formed, as a result of which the needle hits the throat plate or the shuttle.
And accordingly, the foot should also move freely up and down. Without braking, otherwise the fabric will be unevenly pressed, it will simply walk under the foot and the stitches will be of different lengths.
And one more place that we must lubricate.
Winding a bobbin, dripping three drops of oil.
Now we put the machine on its side. The arrows indicate all the places that need to be lubricated.
After full lubrication, we turn the handle for a couple of minutes, so that the oil flows into all the joints and cracks of the machine mechanism. Feel the difference, it began to work completely differently, softly and quietly.
Pay particular attention to the installation of the friction device.
Here you can see how not to do it, usually amateurs install the friction washer this way, as a result, they do not turn on the working stroke. After which they begin to turn on their imagination, cut out the washers from cardboard, wind the wire, in general, who is good at what.
This is how the washer should be, the protrusions should be outward.
After that we tighten the friction screw and the stop screw.
The result of our work.
Do not store the sewing machine near heating appliances or in cold, damp rooms.
Video (click to play). |
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