Repair mitsubishi galant 1993 do it yourself repair
Details: repair of mitsubishi galant 1993 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Multimedia manual for operation, maintenance and repair of cars Mitsubishi Galant / Mirage / Diamante 1990-2001. with petrol SOHC / DOHC engines of 1.5 / 1.6 / 1.8 / 2.0 / 2.4 / 3.0 / 3.5 liters.
The multimedia manual contains general information about the device of Mitsubishi Galant / Mirage / Diamante cars of 1990-2001, recommendations for maintenance, a description of possible malfunctions of all engine systems, both turbocharged and non-turbocharged, transmissions with a manual automatic transmission and, chassis, power steering, braking systems.
Due attention is paid to the electronic control systems of the engine of Mitsubishi Galant / Mirage / Diamante cars, transmissions, etc. Color wiring diagrams are given. Illustrations and electrical diagrams of Mitsubishi Galant / Mirage / Diamante cars can be viewed in enlarged form by clicking on them (the illustration will open in a separate window), an enlarged illustration, as well as the text, can be printed.
The technical tips given in this Mitsubishi Galant / Mirage / Diamante car repair manual will help you do maintenance and repairs both at the workshop and on your own.
A series of business trips and problems did not make it possible to finally take up my new swallow.
The first thing I managed to do at the very beginning was welding work:
Immediately after the purchase, my brother and I decided to diagnose the ECU. I connected once and dropped it immediately. The rest of the attempts were unsuccessful.
Video (click to play).
Then, on the Internet, I read about the old age of our protocol and that there are certain difficulties with connecting to our typewriter. If anyone knows where to buy a normal working adapter for our machine, I would be very grateful.
By the way, next to the white standard connector is another, black connector. Who knows what it is?
Yesterday I flew in from a business trip and this morning I went to the store. Ordered: distributor gaskets, covers, intake manifold, candle wells, as well as: candles, high voltage wires fuel filter, and airy. All this good must come on Monday. I gave 4.5 rubles for everything.
I want to tell a little story about how I grabbed problems in the service where my friend sent me. They should have changed me: retractor relay, pads, rear engine support, timing belt, timing roller, water pump, and most importantly - the grip.
As a result of prolonged trolling and calls, I decided to go and check what was the matter. I found a car on the street near the station, with a partially torn off front bumper, a left fog, a dent on the left front arch. I had to raise the boil, because no one could say anything intelligible to my questions. The perpetrators were immediately found. Among other things, it turned out that all spare parts were purchased and installed on the car, except for the coupling. They wanted to sell it straight like this. It should be noted that the money for the spare parts was given in advance. That is, they just wanted to fuck. In the end, they called me after a while and said that the bumper was screwed on, the tumanku too, the wing was straightened, it remains to paint when the shop is free. I come for a car, start it up, the car grabs and stalls. Works only with gas filling or after full warming up. Well, of course, I was upset, but I didn't immediately raise the high. I sit there warming up, poking around in the phone, and then I raise my eyes and find a crack in the forehead from top to bottom. Well, then of course I got angry. At first, the guys cut the fool in, they say, everything was like that, but the fact that the car stalls, they say, the Galante has a throttle disease, “What do you want, the car is so many years old…”. I had to swear again.XX corrected a friend by a simple inspection of the engine compartment - the block from the DMRV just flew off a little.
And the lobach cracked when they poured boiling water over him, because the car was parked on the street under the snow, and froze. Debils bleat ... The arch was crumpled when trying to kick the wheel off the hub. No comment. In short, in the end, I now have to paint the wing, change the lobach, and buy all the same clutch and install. Oh, yes - after the start of the movement by car from this station, I discovered that the speedometer had stopped working. I shone a flashlight where there is its drive on the manual transmission and found a couple of torn off wires under the root of the connector. Apparently touched when they changed the back pillow - they are very close. Of course, there are many more interesting things in this story, but not for the blog.
Today I flushed the nozzles at the station. We washed it like a collective farm, right on the engine. We connected a container with flushing liquid to the fitting on the fuel rail and connected a hose from the compressor, and plugged the return line with a bolt. We tried to find the fuel pump fuse, but to no avail. The inscriptions on the block under the hood are not in English, so it is not clear what to pull out. And on the block under the steering wheel there is no cover at all. Internet searches were unsuccessful. They tried to crawl under the seat, but did not lift the carpet to turn off the block directly on the gas pump. In general, they built a collective farm device by connecting a gasoline pipe coming from the fuel filter under the hood with a long hose to the neck of a non-tank))))) The motor rumbled on this crappy mixture for about half an hour, then all the connections were returned and I left. By the way, the connection of the fuel rail union turned out to be abundantly coated with sealant. PZDTS! hike this sealant now partly lives in forces))) or lived. hope.
Lyrical digression. In the process of searching for the absence of heating revolutions, the TPS was removed and put in place. Since this was not the case, it was screwed back on, but its axial position was chosen spontaneously. The car became very blunt. I started looking for manuals on the Internet. On Russian forums and sites they talk about some 0.62 volts, while the original non-Russian murzilka literally says the following: "The output voltage should be 0.2 - 1.4 volts, usually 0.9 volts", and at the end in bold it says “TPS is not regulated!”. For those who doubt the accuracy of my translation, here is the original text: “TP sensor is not adjustable!”.
In short, I bought a Chinese tester, brought out the wiring, turned on the ignition and began to measure. put out 0.62 volts. I went to check. The car became more cheerful, almost as before, but the most unpleasant symptom remained - when giving gas, at first there is a short dip, and then it starts to accelerate. This leads to jerks when changing gears while driving, as well as to very uncomfortable driving in 1st and 2nd gears through traffic jams - the car either starts to accelerate or "sticks". In general jerks. Internet searches have led to the fact that there are TPS with three contacts and four. I have 4 contacts. I adjusted the sensor so that at the slightest pressure on the pedal, this very limit switch on contact 4 was triggered. The output of the rheostat turned out to be 0.71 volts. The car became even more obedient and frisky, but the jamb described above remained. In addition, when the pedal is fully released and idle, the dzhekichan lights up. The great thing is that it instantly goes out at the slightest press on the gas pedal. Can anyone still give clear recommendations for installing DPDZ on my 4G93 MPI engine? I couldn't find it on the Internet - either manuals for other motors, or for the 93rd Jedi, or a completely different sensor.
I removed the entire throttle assembly. There was not much dirt. I sprinkled it with a water spray, rubbed it.
I tried to remove the IAC. I could not unscrew the bolts, even with a vdshka. Tried to knock and so on. Unsuccessfully. Then one day I think to make cuts with a hacksaw or something else to try to unscrew it with a large powerful flat screwdriver.
I tried to remove the electronic part of the IAC. The bolts unscrewed easily, but something prevented the removal of the black plastic part from the IAC body.I tried to pry it with a screwdriver, I realized that I was breaking the device))) Therefore, I adjusted the gasket and screwed it back on. Who cares, later on the Internet I found out that in order to remove this plastic part of the regulator (on which the regulator's connector), you must first open the protective round cap on the back of the motor, and RETRACT (!) The regulator motor from the contacts of this very board. She had such an interesting construct.
Any help would be appreciated. Now the trouble is actually only with these short dips at the beginning of pressing the gas. Maybe it's in the regulation of TPS, maybe something else. Therefore, so as not to think about anything, I washed the nozzles and ordered candles, high-voltage wires, fuel and air filters. I also want to inspect the pump. It will be necessary to measure the pressure and just get it to look at the pump itself. I heard in it there is some kind of primary filter of the mesh type, which tends to be clogged with products of the Russian oil industry.
