DIY Mitsubishi Sigma repair

In detail: DIY repair of a Mitsubishi Sigma from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In order for your Mitsubishi Sigma to serve faithfully to its owner, you need to constantly monitor its technical condition. Regular diagnostics and repairs of the Mitsubishi Sigma are the key to trouble-free operation.

To repair the Mitsubishi Sigma it was necessary less often, you must first of all monitor consumables that change either after a specified period, or depending on the mileage. Checking and replacing consumables for Mitsubishi Sigma is done according to the routine maintenance table, which indicates the intervals with the mileage and the type of work.

Mitsubishi Sigma repair and replacement of consumables includes:

Change the oil in the Mitsubishi Sigma engine
Change the Mitsubishi Sigma oil filter
Change cabin filter for Mitsubishi Sigma
Change the oil in the automatic transmission box Mitsubishi Sigma
Change power steering fluid Mitsubishi Sigma
Replace antifreeze with Mitsubishi Sigma

Timely replacement of oil and filters on Mitsubishi Sigma will significantly reduce the cost of repairs in the future. A clogged air filter will prevent the engine from passing the required amount of air, causing it to choke and consume more fuel.

Repair service for popular Mitsubishi models:

repair of Mitsubishi Sigma 3.0;

If you do not change the oil for Mitsubishi Sigma, then it will lose its properties, become very cloudy and thicken, simply turning into a thick substance, that is, fuel oil. This oil does not lubricate the moving parts, but only hinders their operation.

The price of Mitsubishi Sigma repair consists of the following components:

Prices for Mitsubishi Sigma spare parts for repair;
Price for the work of an auto repairman / specialist;

The most expensive are original spare parts for Mitsubishi Sigma from the manufacturer. Each such spare part has its own part-number, by which you can find analogues from other manufacturers. The prices for non-original spare parts for Mitsubishi Sigma are lower than the factory ones, but there is a possibility of getting a low-quality fake, which has a short service life, or will not work at all. Filters, oils, candles, belts, brake discs on Mitsubishi are faked most often, since there is always a demand for them.

Video (click to play).

Types of payment for the repair of Mitsubishi Sigma:

official, with documents and a guarantee;
unofficial, without documents, by personal agreement.

First of all, it is necessary to clearly set the tasks for the repair of Mitsubishi Sigma, and if the problems are not obvious, then diagnose Mitsubishi. Teapot car enthusiasts are always welcome to service, because they can be imposed a number of works and replacement of spare parts that are not necessary.

In a car service, prices for Mitsubishi Sigma repairs can be fixed for each type of service and be the same for all car brands: suspension diagnostics, oil change, replacement of pads, replacement of air filters. An alternative price option, when payment is made for "1 standard hour", for each car model it has its own.

In this case, each Mitsubishi Sigma repair operation is determined by timing, that is, the time it takes. This is called "Rate of Labor". Each car manufacturer indicates these numbers in the tables of reference books for each car model separately.

It often happens that the repair of a Mitsubishi Sigma from a mechanic takes longer than the standardspecified in the work reference. In this case, you have the right to pay only for the fixed standard hours allotted for this operation. Whether the auto repairman will do it more slowly, or faster, depends on his qualifications.

It is very important to require the issuance of a work order for the volume of work you have chosen for the repair of Mitsubishi Sigma, as this will avoid disagreements, show your awareness and will be a significant argument if something goes wrong. Indicate what to do with old parts after replacement: return to the client (that is, you), or the car service will dispose of them on its own.

The ideal option is not to give the car keys to anyone, under any circumstances., and only get behind the wheel yourself. Completely supervise the Mitsubishi Sigma repair, being in the working area with the auto repairman all the time. Such conditions often contradict the safety precautions of a car service, but this will save you from most of the problems, and the repair service will be as transparent as possible.

If for the repair of Mitsubishi Sigma, according to the rules of the car service, it is required to hand over the car, then be sure to draw up an act of acceptance of the car for repair. This procedure involves the transfer of the car key, and often the registration certificate. An employee of a car service independently drives the car into a box, or onto a lift.

The Mitsubishi Sigma acceptance certificate for repair or diagnostics includes:

List of works and faults required to repair the car;
List of spare parts for replacement;
Diagram and description of the presence / absence of defects on the car, which do not require elimination during the repair process;
Completeness of the car: things, tools, accessories not related to repair.

Upon completion of the work, it is necessary to verify all the points for the documented repair and the actually performed. One employee can take a car, a second to repair a Mitsubishi Sigma, and a third to hand over a job. If any inconsistencies are found later, it will be more difficult to prove it.

ROTATE ENGINE COMPARTMENT COMPLETELY. Replacing the engine ... and not only ... 87 years - this cannot be. Soon the car is 30 years old, but it looks ... And one more thing - if it's not difficult, look, did I supply the timing correctly?

Mitsubishi Galant 1987, gasoline engine 2.0 l., 136 hp sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair

damn sealant, use another sealant
normal
and so molorik, work at the level))))

This is the Aisan carb. There is no special electronics in it. Only a throttle angle sensor, and maybe a float chamber ventilation valve.

I don't have a sensor and a valve 🙂

for some reason he is with some kind of electronics ...

Duck is your balancer worth it? Or is it removed?

There is only the left one without a belt ... I twisted it, it turns but it seizes a little at first gently. And when it gets up and does not return. maybe because it didn’t work? and the tension roller is also worth it.

Well he's like a counterweight, he should be spinning like that

well and good. - ordered a belt.

Give the carburetor to the man)))

That no problem - let him take ...

Seriously? 🙂 I would be very happy! Can I take more pictures of him, it seemed to me, or is he a little with electronics?

Give the carburetor to the man)))

If it's not difficult .- Look, all the belts have been installed, the trampler has to be put correctly.

That's right, insert the distributor so that the slider looks at the first cell

Thank you ... I just took it off one, took it off the second, washed it, painted it, I'm thinking where to get the drive plate ... and assemble it.

Timing is right, well done, quality work)))

serjio73 02 Mar 2012

olegus 03 Mar 2012

doc243 03 Mar 2012

Mitsubishi Sigma 3.0. Problems started when driving, twitched. I measured the fuel pressure of -1.9 when the return flow was transmitted. The fuel pump changed. Then it started up and after a while it stalled. High-voltage wires and plugs are new. The switch was substituted - nothing changed. And now it's generally funny - starts up and immediately stalls. Suspicions on the distributor. I disassembled it, it has a screen with six holes in the outer circle and 5 holes located not symmetrically along the inner circle The sensor itself, it seems, is built on the principle of a light-photodiode. Maybe that's the problem? Can anyone come across and help with advice? Thank you all in advance.

avtomaster81 03 Mar 2012

serjio73 03 Mar 2012

I found a circuit for this engine, there is no timing sensor or crankshaft. On the way, everything is in the distributor. I looked at the engine of these sensors, I did not see it. Maybe something with the control unit.

avtomaster81 03 Mar 2012

If my memory serves me, then this car has an output on the retractor starter to facilitate starting and apparently the engine starts at this output, and when the starter is turned off, the engine stalls accordingly. Hence, it can be assumed that there is no voltage 15 from the lock to the distributor and, as an option, the alarm cuts it off if there is no IMO or the lock itself.

Look at the starter retractor, if you see there are two terminals with thin wires, then there is a contact to facilitate starting, try to short this wire by 30, if it will work, look for 15 s of the lock.

Now there are no repair bases at hand, everything will be on the robot on Monday and then I can clarify.

serjio73 04 Mar 2012

Now there are no repair bases at hand, everything will be on the robot on Monday and then I can clarify.

I also watched the signaling, it is connected at a minimum, that is. central locking, and to open the doors. On the power supply, I connected the controls to both the trample and the coil - there is power and does not disappear until the engine stops. There is also such a joke on the intake manifold. As I understand it, there is an axis on which, apparently, there are dampers for each cylinder. All this is controlled by a micro reducer connected to the "brains." .And on the gear in one place the teeth are eaten. Here, damn it, I think there is an ambush here. We started to wind up, manually holding the shutter open, the same rake. 4 wires come to the tramble: +, -, and 2 output. There is power, the signal impulses pass. I looked at the LEDs, there is no oscillation. From the signal wires, the signals go to the brain and from there return to the switch. I think the reason is either in the distributor or in the brain. And the malfunction behaved on an increasing basis: it immediately started up and went out after heating. Then the operating time was shortened, and now we are all kapets.

serjio73 04 Mar 2012

Look at the starter retractor, if you see two terminals with thin wires there, then there is a contact to facilitate starting, try to short this wire by 30, if it works, look for 15 s of the lock.

Now there are no repair bases at hand, everything will be on the robot on Monday and then I can clarify.

Post has been editedserjio73:04 March 2012 - 07:16

It is no secret for the Mitsubishi Sigma driver that the indicator on the dashboard "Check-Engene" is a Mitsubishi malfunction signal. In a normal state, this icon should light up when the ignition is turned on, at this moment a check of all Mitsubishi Sigma systems begins, in a working car the indicator goes out after a few seconds.

If something is wrong with Mitsubishi Sigma, then "Check-Engene" does not go out, or it lights up again after a while. It can also blink, which clearly indicates a serious malfunction. This indicator will not tell the Mitsubishi owner what exactly the problem is, it draws attention to the fact that a Mitsubishi Sigma engine diagnosis is required.

Since all foreign cars, not excluding Mitsubishi Sigma, are tightly tied to electronics, a huge number of sensors monitor the operation of the car. Therefore, diagnostics of the Mitsubishi Sigma engine is, by and large, checking the most important unit of the machine, with the exception of the suspension, which is checked mechanically.

There is a large number of specialized equipment for diagnosing the Mitsubishi Sigma engine. There are compact and fairly versatile scanners that not only professionals can afford. But there are times when ordinary portable scanners do not detect malfunctions in the Mitsubishi Sigma engine, then diagnostics must be carried out exclusively with licensed software and a scanner from Mitsubishi.

Mitsubishi Diagnostic Scanner shows:

Throttle valve opening percentage;
Engine speed in rpm;
Mitsubishi Sigma engine temperature;
Voltage in the Mitsubishi Sigma on-board network;
The temperature of the air sucked into the engine;
Mitsubishi Sigma ignition timing;
Fuel injection time by the injector. Displayed in milliseconds;
Mitsubishi Sigma air flow sensor readings;
Engine load;
Readings of the oxygen sensor Mitsubishi Sigma;

Before diagnosing the Mitsubishi Sigma engine, you should listen to it, in its normal state it works quietly, monotonously, confidently keeps the speed. When you press the gas pedal, it steadily, without jerking, picks up speed, without extraneous sounds. At the same time, the exhaust is practically invisible. Also, in a normal Mitsubishi Sigma engine, there can be no increased consumption of fuel and other fluids.

1. To diagnose the Mitsubishi Sigma engine, first of all, the engine compartment is inspected visually. A serviceable engine should not have any leaks of technical fluids, be it oil, coolant, brake fluid. In general, it is important to periodically clean the Mitsubishi Sigma engine from dust, sand, dirt, this is necessary not only for aesthetics, but also for normal heat dissipation!

Read also: DIY horn repair

Closer to summer, I put it on 17 sneakers, first I rode Chinese BBSs, but as a friend of the Titan master said, “Autumn is a poor quality metal, it does not bend, it will break right away” , elastic ”! )))

In general, I cannot favor the car, I will not say that it is pouring, I will not say that it is very expensive in the service staff, the only drawback is the shortage of spare parts in our city, but the channel in another city is established, a purely financial issue remains)))

For myself and for everyone, what else will I do about the car:

1) Put it on the move (so that it starts up and gently floated along the road, i.e. repair of the chassis) - 65% ready
2) Salon (full dry cleaning, desshumka, hauling) - 95% ready
3) Bodywork (painting, replacing taillights, replacing one tumanka and grille) - 20% ready
4) Engine (replacement of front oil seals, timing belt, spark plug wires, oil) - not ready
5) Music (to paint for a long time, I’ll just say there is no music, so you need to change everything radically) - not ready
6) Overtoning (removing the Chinese film and installing high-quality graphite) - 25% ready
Something like this, grandiose plans, let's try to bring them to life! If you have any questions or advice, you are welcome, I will listen and answer everyone!

P.S. and this is the car of a friend with whom and with whom we make our own saloons! )))

BUT ... wanted to sell before the next pasture to market tore her box, what are we going to do but all the heart, for yourself!

Closer to put it on the fly 17 sneaker, first ride on BBSkah Chinese, but said a familiar wizard titankam “fall to the poor quality metal, does not bend will break immediately” passed back and bought Brockie kind cheerful and metal “fall Idling metal , Elastic “! )))

In general, the machine can not complain, I will not say that the fray will not say that it is very expensive for the service staff, the only negative is the shortage of spare parts in our city, but the channel in another city adjusted, remains purely financial issue)))

For themselves and for all that will do more for the car:

1) Put on the course (that started up and gently floated down the road ie repair of chassis) - done by 65%
2) Beauty (full cleaning, obesshumka, hauling) - done by 95%
3) Kuzovschina (painting, replacement tail lights, and the replacement of one tumanki lattice) - done by 20%
4) Engine (windshield replacement gaskets, belt, spark plug wires, oil) - not ready
5) Music (long time to paint, let’s just say music is not therefore necessary to change all the root) - not ready
6) Peretonirovka (Chinese film removal and installation quality graphite) - done by 25%
That something so grandiose plans try to bring them to life! If you have any questions or tips are welcome, listen and answer all!

There are not 2 hall sensors, but one dpkv and the other dprv, there are slots on the plate in 2 levels, and it’s not the ECU that’s the case.

Look for the wiring in these machines, the sensors are eternal

I said incorrectly - I agree, but the functions are the same

I had a similar problem on the Audi 80. The fuel pump worked, the pulses came to the ECU, there were no pulses to the nozzle. It was the switch. The pulses at its output (master) were too small in amplitude. There was 10V instead of 12. And this. the fuel pump cannot see the scroll

he doesn't see anything at all. only shakes.

You need a scanner that can read this car. You can guess for a long time, you need to know if the ECU sees scrolling.

Good afternoon, dear motorists. Today repair mitsubishi is quite common. We have selected for you the best video instruction Mitsubishi Sigma Body repair Rear end and underbody replacement.

We sincerely hope that after watching the video you will have a positive impression of prosotra. Good luck on the road and all the best!

Repair of the Mitsubishi Sigma engine can be major, or it can be partial. The type of repair is determined only after diagnostics by a minder. Partial overhaul of a Mitsubishi Sigma engine may include replacing the GBK gasket, replacing valve stem seals, replacing valves. Partial repairs usually do not include removing the engine block, boring, grinding, liner, etc.

You should not make the decision to repair the Mitsubishi Sigma engine yourself. People often come to the service who say - “my neighbor told me that I need to change the cylinder head gasket and everything will go away”. Of course, we can listen to the client and go to a meeting, but if this does not help in solving the problem, all responsibility will fall on the client, and not on the service minder who diagnoses and is responsible for him.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

When to repair the engine:
- increased consumption of engine oil in the internal combustion engine;
- smoke from the exhaust pipe;
- carbon deposits on spark plugs;
- uneven engine idling;
- increased consumption of gasoline;
- significant drop in engine power;
- knocking in the engine or extraneous sounds that were not there before;
- low oil pressure in the engine;
- the engine is overheated.

Warranty for work- 6 months no mileage limit.

Engine diagnostics during repair with us is free!

The final cost of an engine repair depends on many factors. Often, people disassemble the engine themselves, trying to make engine repairs with their own hands. When it comes to the understanding that they cannot assemble it themselves, they bring us a disassembled engine. When you call the service station, please specify the current condition of the engine and you will be told the exact cost of its repair.

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

Automobile Mitsubishi sigma release of 1991 of the last century, such rarities are still on our roads. The problem is this: “one or two engine cylinders periodically stops working”. The motor is six-cylinder.

Where to start troubleshooting? I know that each repairman has his own methods, but I would like to share my thoughts.

Conversation with the client - it is important. At first I heard from him that:
- the motor periodically “fives”
- an incomprehensible smell when "five"
It's clear. Informative? Along the way, I learned that the client is a car mechanic himself and understands motors. So this is what the car owner himself did next:
- removed the engine control unit and took it for inspection - the result is positive: “works”
- I was reinsured and bought other "brains", I bet - the result is the same: "periodically five".

Another fact played a cruel joke and led the identification of this defect to a standstill: the fact is that on old Mitsubishi cars equipped with a mass air flow sensor based on the Pocket effect (more details here):

Over time, contact faults can form in the sensor circuitry. And sometimes, in order to check this malfunction, it is enough to knock (not with all the foolishness, of course) on the sensor case. And if the operation of the motor changes for the better or for the worse, then the problem must be looked for in this sensor. In short, the client knocked on the sensor, and lo and behold! The engine started working as it should! “So the sensor is to blame,” thought the owner of the car and took the sensor for repair. But the matter was not in the sensor, the repair did not give anything, the machine was like “five - and sometimes continued to work intermittently”.

So, what did the conversation with the car owner give and what conclusions can be drawn? At first glance, it is “uninformative”. And if you think about it? After all, a lot was revealed from the conversation with the client:

1. Interruptions in the operation of the motor appear suddenly, there is no orderly scheme for the occurrence of a malfunction, that is, a “floating malfunction”. What it is? Who does not know, I recommend reading the articles on the topic of the issue on the Internet portal of the Legion-Avtodata company - “Complex or simple malfunctions”, “Probable cause of the malfunction”, “Mitsubishi Lancer 9 (2006). Fuel problems? ” ... And many other articles that can be easily found on the search page by typing the words or definitions you need into the search bar. And we will return to our malfunction. I continue: "What was found out from the conversation with the client."

2. During interruptions in the operation of the engine, an incomprehensible, unpleasant odor appeared from the exhaust pipe. Skip this fact? Why, if it helps? I start the engine, wait for interruptions in work and this smell ... so, interruptions began ... and what a smell. how caustic he is ... does it look like over-enrichment?

Let us stop and ask: “What has been clarified? What are the results? Where to dig next? "

At the moment, it would be good to see the malfunction firsthand and confirm the assumption about "over-enrichment". Let me emphasize: "So far, only assumptions." By the way, all the first stages of car diagnostics are based only on assumptions, it rarely happens that a fault can be “found out right away”. This is called "luck" and makes the whole day bright.

How can you “see” a malfunction? In this case, he proceeded from the assumption that “the mixture is over-enriched”. Use a gas analyzer? No, I used another method: I connected the motortester and looked at the oscillograms of the ignition system (since I did not have time to save the original, I am giving a similar oscillogram with a description of the problem from the Internet). The breakdown voltage in one of the cylinders was reduced. And for what reasons this can happen:

Now that the assumption is supported by the oscillogram seen, it's time to start the so-called “instrumental diagnostics”: I check the injector connectors, look at the signals.

And I find that in one of the connectors the contact "sits on ground". By the way: I used my homemade device for testing:

The device helps to identify fast processes. When “plus” appears, the red LED lights up and the buzzer sounds. When the polarity is reversed, the buzzer does not sound, and only the green LED lights up. The diagram of the device can be viewed in the articles on the Internet portal of the Legion-Avtodata company.

Now that the suspected malfunction has been identified, it is necessary to find it.

This is a homemade harness mount installed in a non-standard location. For a long time, the mount frayed the tourniquet and this is what happened in the end:

This was one of my options for determining the malfunction. Let me summarize chronologically:
1. Conversation with the client (finding out the details of the car's life).
2. The assumption of a malfunction (where to look, what to watch and what to look at).
3.Visual inspection of the oscillogram and confirmation of the assumption of a malfunction - but this is a consequence.
4. Search for the cause of the malfunction.
5. Elimination of the malfunction.
And if you skip a point, do not pay attention to the "little things", then the troubleshooting can either drag on for a long time, or end in failure.
There are no trifles in car diagnostics.
Happy repairs to everyone!

Sigma first appeared on the market with a sedan body (index F16). And only in 1993, a station wagon was offered to buyers, which was produced in Australia (it is extremely rare in our country - the ratio of station wagons to sedans is approximately 1:10). In the same 1993, wanting to slightly update the look of the model, the creators carried out a minor restyling. However, only the front part of the car was modernized, in which the light optics, bumper and radiator grill were changed.

Image - DIY repair of a Mitsubishi Sigma

Thanks to the impressive wheelbase and successful layout, the car's interior is spacious. All Sigma, which are presented in our market, are well equipped. Cars without air conditioning are almost never found. On many models, climate control was installed, which until 1993 was equipped with mechanical control (by means of rotating controls), and later - electronic (activated using buttons) with a monochrome display mounted on the center console. By the way, climate control can be considered virtually the only source of possible problems with on-board electronics. Sometimes contacts in the control unit are broken, which can manifest itself in arbitrary switching on and off or changing the operating modes of the air conditioner. The problem is solved by disassembling the unit and restoring (soldering) damaged contacts.

However, you should be very careful when buying. Sometimes dishonest sellers remove the dashboard and simply turn off the diagnostic lamps of various systems or connect their contacts to one serviceable one (however, this trick is sometimes resorted to when selling other expensive foreign cars). As a result, all indicator lamps light up when the ignition is turned on, and go out after the start, while many of them should inform about malfunctions of certain systems (for example, an inoperative ABS system or insufficient oil level in the steering rack of 4WS versions). So a thorough diagnosis when buying is essential.

Sigma usually does not suffer from corrosion. In the absence of an "emergency" past, it will not be easy to find traces of rust even on copies of the first years of production.

Since the Sigma stood at the top of the Mitsubishi lineup, it was not equipped with low-power motors. For her, 3.0-liter gasoline engines with 12- or 24-valve cylinder heads were provided. The timing belt is equipped with hydraulic compensators, which eliminates the need to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves. The 24-valve unit provides better dynamics (8 s to 100 km / h versus 9 for a 12-valve unit), but, according to the mechanics, repairing it costs 2-3 times more. And its fuel consumption is slightly higher (in city mode, a 12-valve engine consumes up to 12 liters per 100 km of run, a 24-valve engine - up to 15 liters). Serious repairs may be required only if the owner ignores the recommendations of the automaker. Under normal maintenance, the motors can easily "nurse" 400-500 thous.km, and even later, in most cases, you may only need to replace the valve rings and oil seals (for a more expensive 24-valve engine, this operation, taking into account the work, will cost $ 750 - 800).

Typically, maintenance is limited to regular replacement of oil, timing belt and rollers. The last procedure is performed every 100 thousand kilometers (work and spare parts - $ 180). And the work itself costs about $ 80 - getting to the timing drive is not easy. For a 24-valve engine, at the same time as the belt, you need to change its hydraulic tensioner (node - $ 80).

Other problems include the burnout of the exhaust manifold on 12-valve engines after 120 - 150 thousand km, as well as the sometimes failing oil pressure sensor (spare part - $ 30). Malfunctions such as oil leaks or leakage of the cooling system are found only on thoroughly "tired" copies of the first years of production.

The front-wheel drive Sigma for the European market was equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission and a 4-speed "automatic". Both units serve faithfully under the condition of careful operation and regular oil changes (the interval for both transmissions is 40 thousand km). If the temperament of the car enthusiast does not allow him to move otherwise than according to the principle of "gas to the floor", you need to prepare a thicker wallet. There are several weak points in the mechanical box - bearings, gears and the 5th gear synchronizer can "fly". "Treatment" of the unit will cost about $ 500. If the hum in the box does not prompt the idea to make repairs in time, it will have to be changed entirely. By the way, even a used node costs $ 700 - 1000.

The automatic transmission also does not forgive a devil-may-care attitude. First of all, the clutch pack of the 4th gear burns out in it (the cost of the repair kit is $ 100). If more serious repairs are to be done, experts recommend replacing the entire unit with a used one. The fact is that a serious intervention in the box will cost about $ 1200, and from Japan they bring units that "departed" only 1/3 - 1/2 of their resource, and they cost $ 700 - 1200.

The Sigma suspension is designed for active riding. Although it cannot be called tough. A compromise option is the hydropneumatic suspension, which automatically changes its operating characteristics depending on the speed and road surface. But it has significant drawbacks - fragility during operation on our roads and the high cost of spare parts. For example, the front shock alone costs $ 400. And you need to change it entirely, since it is not repairable. The price of a compressor ($ 900) and a receiver ($ 900) can significantly darken the joy of the owner of such a comfortable suspension. The only way out for those who are not ready for such expenses is to replace "hydropneumatics" with conventional shock absorbers together with springs.

Otherwise, the usual Sigma suspension behaves like many other "Japanese". Every 40 thousand km you will need to replace the front stabilizer struts ($ 15) and its bushings ($ 5). The silent blocks of the front levers serve 10 thousand km more (for 4 pieces - $ 120). Slightly less often there is a need to replace ball joints (1 pc. - $ 25). Conventional shock absorbers are capable of "retreating" more than 150 thousand km.

The rear suspension, despite the multi-link design, can be called indestructible.

The steering gear is generally not a hassle. The steering rack can only lose its tightness on fairly well-traveled copies. Many owners ignore this problem, limiting themselves to periodic oil refills. But if the leak increases, you will have to use a repair kit that costs $ 70.

The top versions of the Sigma have one feature - the 4WS rear wheel turning mechanism. Such modifications are distinguished by enviable handling and stability, even when passing sharp turns. There is also a steering rack at the back. Despite the structural complexity, the assembly is quite reliable, and only the steering tips ($ 30) may require replacement. Moreover, the rear steering rack is equipped with an oil level sensor.

From excessively active driving on our roads, CV joints may suffer ($ 80).

The braking system requires special attention. The danger lies in the ABS sensors (used - $ 75). The reason for their breakdown is rough handling during repair work (attempts to put the ball in place with a hammer, etc.). So even when replacing the pads with "gray" service stations, it makes sense to be personally present when the work is performed. The pads themselves need to be changed when the mileage is from 30 thousand km (front) to 70 thousand (rear). By the way, the Sigma is equipped with ventilated brake discs both front and rear.

So, the Sigma is far from the most economical car. Rather, it is an option for those who often have to drive more than one and still want to enjoy the dynamics and handling of a sports coupe. And most importantly, he is ready to take care of his four-wheeled friend or is simply not constrained in funds.

Video (click to play).

For those and others, the weekly "Avtobazar" will be a good assistant in finding the necessary option.

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DIY Mitsubishi Sigma repair

Mitsubishi Galant 1987, gasoline engine 2.0 l., 136 hp sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair

serjio73 02 Mar 2012

olegus 03 Mar 2012

doc243 03 Mar 2012

avtomaster81 03 Mar 2012

serjio73 03 Mar 2012

serjio73 03 Mar 2012

avtomaster81 03 Mar 2012

serjio73 04 Mar 2012

serjio73 04 Mar 2012

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